4 minute read
Loitering in a land of lakes
Loitering
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Lake Vättern
With a surface area of 738 square miles, Lake Vättern is one of Europe’s largest bodies of water. The Swedish lake, which is more like an inland sea, is the venue for an annual event, the Vätternrundan, the world’s biggest recreational cycle ride. In 2010, County Durhambased Audaxer, Dave Sharp, joined thousands of others to tackle the 315km route around the lake in a glorious northern summer… but first he had to get there!
IT HAD LONG BEEN an ambition of mine to take part in the Vätternrundan. The first event took place in 1966 with around 300 riders. These days the ride attracts more than 20,000 cyclists worldwide, and the demand for entry is exceedingly high.
My opportunity to ride the event finally occurred in 2010. It’s a shame I didn’t manage to do it earlier, as there used to be a direct ferry from North Shields to Gothenburg – the ferry terminal being just a short ride from my home in Seaham, County Durham.
Instead, after putting in my online application in 2009, I spent much time trying to work out a route to the starting point in Motala, southern Sweden.
This was considerably more testing, involving a train from Durham to Stevenage, from where I would have to cycle to Harwich on the east coast to catch the ferry to Esbjerg in Denmark. Then I’d have to cycle across Denmark to catch a ferry from Grenaa to Varberg in Sweden before cycling 180 miles to Motala on the shores of Lake Vättern. At least on the return journey I’d have the welcome sight of my family, waiting to drive me back home.
I’d been using a Moulton for Audax rides for a while, the full suspension helping to reduce the various aches and pains. The TSR model has good luggage capacity and as I would be camping, I used a trailer as well to make packing easier.
So what were the good bits? I’ll always remember that stream of red bike lights stretching out as far the eye could see as we prepared to set off at 9.21pm in the dusk of the Saturday evening.
Chatting to another participant, I asked about his different coloured number and found out that he was one of the riders who had taken part in every event since it started. Seeing another cyclist on a shopper bike, serenading us with music
On the way through Sweden, with all my gear
in a land of lakes
WORDS & PICTURES
DAVE SHARP
The campsite at Jonkoping, at the South end of Lake Vattern. It was very quiet when I stopped there on the way to Motala as the full holiday season had not yet started. Much busier when I stayed there again on the way back, thanks to a local dog show
from a large radio in a wicker handlebar basket, was also a highlight.
Finishing the ride with no accidents or incidents, alongside a steady stream of tired but happy cyclists was definitely a bonus, as was the beautiful scenery and historic towns and villages on the journey from Varberg to Motala and back. I also enjoyed an easy few days at Esbjerg before the ferry home, seeing the sights and making some short trips on the bike.
And the not so good? For starters, my pre-ride neighbours at the Motala campsite, whose idea of preparation was to party into the early hours. They were strangely quiet on the evening of the ride itself, though.
I also had a restless night on Grenaa station. I was certainly tired enough to sleep after arriving on the ferry at midnight. Unfortunately it was graduation party time for the local high school kids and the party venue was nearby. In between that, the compressor on the train waiting for the early morning return journey burst into noisy life every 23 minutes. The homeless guy who emerged from the station toilets in the morning recommended them as a quieter, warmer option (underfloor heating, apparently). I didn’t take up his offer of a swig of vodka for breakfast, though.
Some minor roads in Sweden are gravel surface, luckily I had gone for touring tyres on the bike. Tired but happy to arrive at the finish line back in Motala
The Vätternrundan 2021
Due to the continued effects of Covid-19, this year’s event has been moved from June to September in the hope that many of the local restrictions will have been lifted – but if the attraction of fabulous Nordic scenery appeals, it’s best to move quickly to get your online application in. The ride attracts thousands of cycling enthusiasts, not only from Sweden but from around the world. More information is available at
