Into Iberia

The Red One The forbidding walls of the Alhambra hide an opulent, intricate complex of palaces

14 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

IntoIBERIA

Introducing Spain and Portugal

The Iberian Peninsula happily embraces a sophisticated and diverse culture. Our specialists have explored Spain and Portugal in depth and suggest five of their most memorable experiences

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 15

Spanish glories (clockwise from this) The coastal beauty of San Sebastián; tile work from Gaudí’s impressive Casa Vicens; local treats of San Sebastián; decorated streets of Barcelona; the glorious Alhambra

SPAIN

SPEND THE NIGHT IN THE ALHAMBRA

By Kevin Crotty

With its arabesque arches, graceful columns and airy Generalife gardens, the Alhambra is the most opulent remnant of Moorish rule in Europe. It also attracts thousands of visitors each day, who come to marvel at the intricate detailing of the Patio de los Leones and the carved wooden ceilings of the Mexuar.

I recently saw a quieter side of the Alhambra by spending a night inside the walls of the palace complex. A 14th-century Franciscan monastery, which was also the original resting place of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, has been turned into the Parador de Granada (paradors are historic buildings that have been converted into hotels).

I woke to the gentle sound of fountains in the courtyard and enjoyed my breakfast while basking in the glow of morning sun reflected off the whitewashed walls.

16 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

IBERIA

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: A direct flight from New York to Madrid or Barcelona is about 7.5 hours or 11 hours from Los Angeles with direct and indirect options available. When to go: You can visit Spain any time of the year but we highly recommend spring and autumn for the most comfortable temperatures. For more information and pricing please contact our Spain specialists on 855-593-2125

EXPLORE BARCELONA LIKE A LOCAL

By Allan Palmer

Vila de Gràcia is a village-like neighborhood that usually doesn’t garner much attention. I love its shady plazas and lively cafes, as well as its abundance of tapas bars.

Gràcia, as it’s known to locals, is also home to Gaudí’s Casa Vicens. The architect’s first big commission, it only opened to the public late last year. During a privately guided tour this spring, I was impressed by its meticulously restored elaborate brackets, organic ironwork and the brightly colored sawtooth-patterned tiles, which all hint at the direction his later work would take.

My guide and I then spent the evening hopping from one tapas bar to the next, sampling small plates as we went. One of my favorites was the pimientos de padrón – tiny sweet green peppers that are blasted with a high heat until their skins are blackened and blistered, then served heaped on a plate.

EAT WITH A GASTRONOMIC SOCIETY IN SAN SEBASTIÁN

By Geoff Gillman

San Sebastián is a small city with an outsized culinary reputation. Here, many belong to a txoko, a Basque gastronomic society where members gather to cook and share meals. Casual, informal and intensely private, this loose network of culinary clubs forms the backbone of the city’s social life.

This has fostered an exceptional culinary culture, which explains Paris why is the calling city has one

The Eiffel Tower has of the highest concentrations loomed of over Michelin Paris for stars per capita in the world. over 125 However, years you can only visit a txoko as an invited guest of a member – which is how I got a chance to visit one. Accompanied by a member of the club, I went to the market and specialty shops to pick up provisions, before returning to the club to watch the chef prepare a hearty lunch. Then, I sat down to enjoy a meal with locals, glimpsing a side of San Sebastián that is usually closed to visitors.

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 17

PORTUGAL

DISCOVER THE MANY FACES OF LISBON

By Talia Mazepa

A guided tour of Lisbon offers a good introduction to not only the city but to Portugal in general, where the distinctive neighborhoods all reveal different facets of the country’s history and personality. I glimpsed hints of Moorish culture in the Alfama quarter and remnants of the 1755 Great Lisbon Earthquake in the ruins of Carmo Convent, and then marveled at the post-quake Pombaline architecture of Baixa.

In Belém, I discovered where Henry the Navigator launched the Age of Discovery and then admired the excess of Jerónimos Monastery, a sumptuously flamboyant monument to the wealth garnered from Portugal’s colonies.

In the afternoon, I took a bright yellow tram up one of the city’s seven hills to one of its many miradouros (viewpoints), where I admired the cityscape of cobbled

lanes, terracotta roofs and the winding Tagus River as the sun set. Then, in the warm twilight hours, Lisbon revealed yet another face. Art Nouveau kiosks transform into walk-up bars where you can get a glass of wine or gin and tonic as the public squares fill with an open-air party that lasts until dawn.

18 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

IBERIA

Portuguese perfection (clockwise from this) Lisbon’s glorious arch at the Praca do Comercio; Portugal’s iconic pastel da nata (egg tarts); the Douro Valley is famed for its port and terraced hills; the tram-lined streets of the capital

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: A direct flight from New York and other EastCoast locations to Roman Lisbon roofs is about 7 hours or you can The fly view indirect over Italy’s from a range of regional capital airports from across Castel Sant’Angelo; (left) the US.

Piazza Navona; (bottom)

When to go: You can taking visit a Vespa Portugal tour

any time of the year but we highly recommend spring and autumn for the most comfortable temperatures. For more information and pricing please contact our Portugal specialists on 855-593-2469.

CRUISE THROUGH DOURO VALLEY WINE COUNTRY

By Sarah Collins

For more than 1,000 years, the steep slopes of the Douro River Valley have been terraced into carefully cultivated vineyards. Buttery sunlight bathes the vines, which grow from the dry, stony soil in undulating rows.

This is where vintners grow the grapes for port, the fortified wine that’s become synonymous with Porto, the city at the mouth of the river. In fact, it’s one of Europe’s earliest designated wine regions, a stricture put in place to prevent cheap imitations from flooding the market. But I found more than just port here – Douro also produces full-bodied reds and crisp, minerally whites.

UNESCO recognized the natural beauty and man-made splendor of the valley in 2001, prompting a blossoming of infrastructure for visitors. You can stay at a

number of the area’s traditional estates, called quintas, which usually offer both indulgent rooms and exceptional menus. For a particularly indulgent night, I suggest the Six Senses Douro Valley Hotel and Spa – the company’s first foray into Europe.

A leisurely lunch cruise on a private yacht offers, I think, the best way to take in the sun-gilded hills and lazy curves of the river. I lingered over a meal of regional delicacies as the boat sailed past swooping hills and villages filled with brightly colored houses before docking at one of the area’s wineries for a personal tour and tasting.

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 19