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Wine Regions of Europe

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WINE REGIONS OF

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EUROPE

Europe is the home of great wine, but it pays to learn about it first. Tastings and tours of the vineyards of Spain, France, Italy and Portugal reward with memorable flavors and stories…

Wine country Gazing across the cityscape view of Saint Emilion village in the famous wine region of Bordeaux, France

EUROPE

“Rioja is a region of stark contrasts. Vines have been cultivated here since Roman times, and if you go up into towns like Laguardia, you can still see rocks riddled with aging cellars.”

ITALY

Take it easy in Piedmont Situated in northern Italy, close to the France and Swiss borders, Piedmont is less renowned than Tuscany but produces some of Italy’s best wines. Against a backdrop of the Alps, the region offers seemingly endless vineyards interspersed with small medieval villages. That’s why, when I visit, I prefer to explore with a private driver and expert wine guide.

The Langhe and Roero regions are protected by UNESCO both for their outstanding landscapes and for the fine wines produced by the area’s small vineyards. Many of those wineries are family-run, and you can tour the vineyard with a member of the family before sampling some of their wines. When I’m in Piedmont, I always make a point to seek out the region’s two most popular wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, which are often referred to as the king and queen of wines.

While there, I suggest heading to the town of Barolo to spend time in the WIMU, an interactive wine museum that explores the history and culture of wine. Just a short drive from here, you’ll also find the medieval town of Pollenzo. I come here for the Wine Bank. Located within the same complex as a Slow Food hotel and the University of Gastronomic Sciences, the Wine Bank is like a museum that holds a wide selection of Italian wines. It has a shop where you can buy bottles at reasonable prices as well as literature dedicated to wine and food.

Many of the area’s hotels also have their own extensive wine cellars or produce their own wine. The luxury Relais San Maurizio has its own spa treatment room dedicated to vinotherapy (wine therapies). Relax in a wine whirlpool or take a sauna in a giant restored barrel from the late 1800s. Then, after a day’s exploration, finish with dinner in one of the many Michelinstarred restaurants in the area.

SPAIN

Wine and architecture in the Rioja Arguably one of Spain’s most recognizable wines, Rioja is known the world over for its dominant cherry flavors, achieved through the expert blend of tempranillo (Spain’s most prominent indigenous grape variety) and garnacha, along with the occasional addition of mazuelo and graciano. The wine is produced from vineyards in the area surrounding the Oja River.

This area is one of stark contrasts. Vines have been cultivated here since Roman times, and if you go up into towns like Laguardia, you can still see rocks that are riddled with aging cellars. The Moors never reached this far north, so the historic towns have a much more northern European medieval style than those in the southern areas, with wooden timber-frame houses and gothic churches.

Excitingly though, the Rioja wine region is one that is not stuck in the past and many wineries here are embracing Spain’s passion for

pushing architectural boundaries and styling themselves not only as wine producters but as modern works of art. Perhaps most arresting is Hotel Marques de Riscal, an ostentatious confection of titanium ribbons, designed for the eponymous wine label on the grounds of the eponymous 150-year-old wine estate. Designed by Frank Gehry, who also masterminded the Guggenheim Museum, the purple, silver and gold curves are said to represent different parts of a wine bottle.

Alternatively, you can visit the Rafael López de Heredia Tondonia Winery, where you’ll find a striking pavilion designed by the flamboyant architect Zaha Hadid. An angular, bright, ultra-modern space, its outline is intended to resemble an old-fashioned decanter. Sleek and swooping, it serves as a luminous counterpoint to the nearby wine gallery, which dates from 1890 and has a far more traditional style.

A short drive to the east, one of our favorite places to stay is the architect-owned and designed Hotel Viura. Composed of a series of precarious-looking superimposed cubes, the property is filled with bold design features from polished concrete floors to angled walls, driftwood sculptures and original artwork. Each of the 33 rooms has been individually designed with edgy, contemporary decor featuring and gives the feeling of staying in an art gallery while at the same time having the beautiful Rioja wine region right on the doorstep.

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a. Harvesting a red wine grape in Piedmont b. Cellar tours are a great way to discover new wines c. Wandering the glorious vineyards of Langhe d. Sampling wine from a dolcetto grape e. Looking over the vineyards of Piedmont beneath a mountainous backdrop f. A vineyard at sunset g. The village and fields of Briones h. A Spanish cellar filled with wine barrels i. The Frank Gehrydesigned Hotel Marques de Riscal

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i34 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

EUROPE

WINE BOX

Barolo: Due to its tannic properties, Barolo is best enjoyed with red meat such as veal, rabbit, wild boar and beef. It also complements strong cheeses such as Parmigiano and pecorino. Moscato d’Asti: The light, sweet taste of moscato d’Asti goes well with any light deserts, such as fruit tarts or sponge cakes, as well as biscuits and fruits. Rioja: This wine’s robust flavor makes it a great addition to pair with lamb and pork dishes or those with red pepper or saffron seasonings. Champagne: The light and refined palate along with its uniquely small bubbles is

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a. Relaxing poolside at Quinta do Vallado, Regua, Portugal b. Cruising the waters of the Douro Valley c. Getting ready to cycle through the French vineyards d. Red wine grapes in the late autumn e. Spa at the Six Senses Douro Valley, Lemego f. The centuries-old terraces of the Douro g. Cycling through the Saint-Emilion vineyards h. A sleepy village in the Saint-Émilion region i. Horses enjoying the Saint-Emilion vineyards

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PORTUGAL

Cruise the port vineyards of the Douro Valley The Douro Valley is one of Portugal’s most important wine-producing areas, most notable for its historic production of port. Located in the north on the country, the Douro River winds its way via the steeply sided valley on its way to Porto.

Port owes much of its growth to the animosity between France and Britain during the 18th century. Unable to import wine from France, British merchants looked to Portugal for a new source of tipple. A lucrative trade emerged as wine was shipped down the Douro River to the port houses in Porto’s riverfront Vila Nova de Gaia district where it was aged in preparation for its export overseas. As part of this preparation and to help preserve the wine on the journey to Britain, it was spiked with brandy, creating the rich sweet wine that we know today.

Most of the great port houses are still located in Vila Nova de Gaia, directly across the river from downtown Porto. Here you can tour the various wine cellars that line the river, such as Cálem or Graham’s. If you have more time, you can also travel into the Douro Valley itself and explore picturesque vineyards. The Douro lazily snakes its way through the steep-sided Schist hills of northern Portugal. The walls of the valley are striped with undulating rows of terraces, carved by hand over thousands of years. It is one of the oldest protected wine regions in

perfectly paired with fresh oysters and a splash of lemon juice or finely chopped shallots in white wine vinegar. Cava: An ideal accompaniment to many of Spain’s traditional tapas, as well as appetizers such as nuts, cheese and jamón. We suggest trying it with a Spanish tortilla (omelet) or with roasted artichokes. Port: Normally served as an after-dinner drink, port goes very well with dark chocolate. The sweet berry notes help to offset the bitter, acidic and fruity element of the chocolate. Vihno verde: With its distinctive, razor-sharp acidity, this wine pairs well with seafood. It’s ideal for a hot summer’s day.

Europe, established by the Marquis de Pombal in 1756 to protect the area’s port wine production. Today, it has earned UNESCO World Heritage Site status as a ‘cultural landscape of outstanding beauty.’

The banks of the valley are dotted with whitewashed quintas (historic wine estates), many of which have begun to diversify and now produce a selection of high quality red and white wines as well as port. You can visit the estates as part of a private tasting tour or simply admire the sun-drenched scenery on a private lunch cruise along the river.

FRANCE

Cycling and winery tours in Saint-Émilion The vineyards around the medieval town of Saint-Émilion primarily grow merlot and cabernet franc grapes, taking advantage of the hilly landscape to give the vines more

exposure to the sun. Irrigating these vines is illegal in order to protect the delicate ecosystem that supports their growth. The limestone rocks and clay soil help to regulate the sun’s heat, while trees and flowers provide shade, protection from the elements and natural pesticides.

Mikael, my guide, explained all of this to me as we cycled around the vineyards and through little sleepy villages. We eventually arrived at a small family-owned chateau, which Mikael’s been visiting for years. He explained that this chateau and its vines have been owned for 14 generations – three of which still live here and work the land today.

For a wine to be considered Grand Cru Classe or a Premier Grand Cru Classe, the rules in France are very strict and you can’t use certain machines. In order to comply, many chateaux have returned to using horse-drawn plows in between the vines – they don’t damage the soil as much as large tractors do.

I got a glimpse of this old-is-new tradition following a visit to the vinification room and limestone cellars. We turned a corner on our bikes and Mikael jumped off and waved for me to follow, then just as I reached him, four enormous horses appeared through the narrow vines, clopping along easily, barely tired from their efforts or the bright sun beating down on their backs.

For more information on planning a trip to any of these key wine regions, contact our Europe team on 1-855-787-6329.

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 37

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