Ask An Expert: Bhutan

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BHUTAN

So what do you need to know before you visit the once-secretive Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan? Over to specialist Jackson…

BHUTAN SPECIALIST

Jackson Golden

Tiger’s Nest Monastery

Prayer flags, Phobjikha Valley

What can you

Q experience in Bhutan? AVisiting Bhutan is the chance to witness one of the most carefully preserved cultures in the world – one that was closed off from real outside influence until a few decades ago. You’ll see how, for example, most Bhutanese wear richly patterned national dress, revere their royal family, and worship phalluses (which often decorate buildings). But at the same time, it’s interesting to see how Bhutan is modernizing, too: smartphones and WiFi are ubiquitous.

While exploring Bhutan’s major towns of Thimpu and Paro with your guide, you can browse for handicrafts at markets. You might also like to peruse the (better value) wares of nomadic tribes in rural areas. You can visit temples and dzongs (monasteries), including Thimpu’s fertility temple, Chimi Lhakhang, and the famous Tiger’s Nest, which clings to a cliffside outside Paro. You can even take a hike or a simple stroll through rural paddy fields, past grazing yaks, and head-turning Himalayan scenery – around almost every corner appear vistas of snow-capped mountains.

I heard there’s a $250 fee

Q to pay for every day of your trip. How does this work? AYes, this is roughly the obligatory daily charge (it can fluctuate) and it reflects how Bhutan is taking steps to

safeguard its culture. The thinking goes that this financial barrier helps control the number of foreign visitors entering the country, and as a result, keeps development under control and the Bhutanese way of life intact.

You pay the fee upfront, as part of the overall cost of your trip with Audley. It covers most of your meals, your taxes, your driver and private guide, and no-frills hotels (with upgrade options). Your trip must be planned out in advance and last-minute changes aren’t permitted, in accordance with visa regulations, but you’re free to choose, with the guidance of your specialist, where exactly to go.

What sort of altitudes

Q are you at in Bhutan? AYou’ll fly into Paro, which is 7,380 feet above sea level. This altitude is palatable if you take it easy for the first few days of your trip. After a few days, you could visit the Tiger’s Nest temple complex, which sits at 10,240 feet above sea level. The walk to the monastery takes you up and down a steep flight of steps. Again, take things gently. At such altitudes, Bhutan’s weather can change rapidly from torrential rain to sleet and snow, to 85 F heat. Pack layers and a good rain jacket.

What’s the food like

Q in Bhutan? AYou can expect lots of vegetarian dishes (this being a nation of devout Buddhists), but

you’ll also find meat (mostly chicken) imported from India. The vegetable dishes usually follow what’s in season, and I have always found them satisfying and hearty.

Chillies are eaten at breakfast, lunch and dinner, and often served as dishes unto themselves. Ask your guide if you’d like to avoid particularly hot dishes. The one food I’d be aware of is ema datshi (chilli cheese stew), which (for me, anyway) is a bit like eating fire. In towns, especially Paro and Thimpu, you can also take a break from local food and dine at Western-style places. (I’ve had good burgers in Thimpu.) There are also lots of trendy cafes popping up – I can recommend the cappuccinos at Paro’s Mountain Cafe.

How do you get

Q around Bhutan? On an Audley trip, you’ll

A have your own, excellent driver and guide to take you everywhere. The roads can vary in quality, and outside the main towns, infrastructure can quickly peter out. As you head into deep countryside, be prepared for some bumpy stretches. They come at random: you might have half an hour of a sealed road, then ten minutes of gravel or unpaved roads. Landslides can also cause delays, so expect journey times to vary. Parts of the country are purposely unreachable to protect the environment.

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