The Spirit of India

Sacred rites A Buddhist woman holds a prayer wheel and beads

22 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

THE SPIRIT OF

INDIA

From Hindu festivals to Tamil temples, India is home to many religions. Our specialists suggest how best to immerse yourself in this diverse, spiritual nation

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 23

B irthplace of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism, India’s home to at least nine religions in different parts of the country. You’ll find Himalayan monasteries, city mosques, Christian churches and Tamil temples. The best way to learn about India’s diversity is to immerse yourself in its religions, visiting places of worship, talking to guides or even traveling during a festival. Here, our specialists recommend their favorite experiences...

Window on Amritsar The Golden Temple appears to float on the ‘pool of holy nectar’

THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR, PUNJAB

By Emma Chorlton There are over 20 million Sikhs in India – a large number, but just a small percentage of India’s 1.3 billion population. The majority of the Sikh population lives in the northern state of Punjab, where you’ll find the city of Amritsar and the Golden Temple. For years, I’ve been fascinated by Sikh customs and rituals, as well as the inclusive nature of the religion, so on my first visit to Amritsar, I was keen to visit Sikhism’s holiest temple.

The temple appears to float in the middle of the Amrit Sarovar, the ‘pool of holy nectar’. Known to Sikhs as Harmandir Sahib, it’s part of a larger complex called a gurdwara (‘door to the guru’) and can be entered from four sides, representing openness and acceptance.

Before entering the temple, I removed my shoes and placed my pashmina over my head, imitating the ladies with their saris. As my guide walked with me into the gurdwara, we stepped through a small pool to bathe our feet.

Beckoning me to the water’s edge, a group of smiling ladies used gestures to tell me that this section was a women-only bathing area. It was full of activity and chatter as they descended the steps and held chains to submerge themselves in the holy water. I didn’t join them but appreciated their warm welcome.

Later, I returned to see the temple complex in the evening. My guide showed me into the langar (community kitchen), where volunteers prepare free food for around 100,000 people each day. Astounded by the vast cauldrons of dhal and rice, I relished the opportunity to help roll dough for chapattis. We then sat crossedlegged on the floor and joined the feast: anyone is welcome, no matter what race or religion.

Bake off The kitchen at Amritsar’s temple complex cooks for 100,000 people a day

Get me there: A 14-day tailor-made trip to Punjab starts from $3,475pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

24 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

INDIA

Holy water The locals prepare for a wash in the Ganges

BANARES/VARANASI, UTTAR PRADESH

By Jason Toms Banares, more commonly known as Varanasi, is one of India’s oldest continually inhabited cities – predating Rome by about 700 years. For followers of Hinduism and Jainism, it is considered the holiest of the Seven Sacred Cities and is well-known for its many riverside ghats (a series of steps leading down to a stretch of holy water). For many Hindu worshippers, Varanasi is the location in which their deceased loved-ones obtain Moksha (a form of enlightenment) and are then released from the cycle of death and rebirth.

I was initially apprehensive about visiting Varanasi, as visitors generally describe it as a visceral experience that will challenge everything you know about life and death. Upon my arrival, I was taken by small wooden motorboat down the longest river in India, the holy Ganges. Hindus view the Ganges as far more than just a body of water. In fact, this celestial river is personified as the

Goddess Ganga who is known for her purity and ability to wash away sin.

As I traveled down this celebrated river, I immediately took note of the ladies hovering at the edge of the ghat, wearing bright and colorful saris, clasping their hands together to collect water from the river to gently pour over their faces. The men were more courageous, often submerging their entire bodies in the holy river in a ritual of purification. Children looked onward from a distance, some dipping their feet in the river while others enjoyed a game of splashing loudly. Elsewhere, a group walked by carrying pieces of sandalwood in preparation to perform a cremation ceremony by the river’s edge.

Evenings provided the opportunity to watch an Aarti ceremony in which fire is used in a performance to pay reverence to Lord Shiva. Few cities remain so unchanged from the hands of time but this is definitely one of them.

Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made trip to Varanasi starts from $3,120pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 25

BEYOND THE BEACH

Divine light The Meenakshi Temple is lit by candles, while its towers are brightly decorated with thousands of figurines

MEENAKSHI TEMPLE, TAMIL NADU

By Hannah Deadman The southeastern state of Tamil Nadu, with its population of approximately 80 million, is home to a multitude of religions. Though the vast majority of the people here practice Hinduism, you’ll also find Christianity, Islam and Jainism.

In the southern half of the state, perched on the Vaigai River, the city of Madurai is home to the Thirumalai Nayak Palace and Ghandi Museum, as well as to the vast, brightly decorated Meenakshi Temple. This sprawling complex of gopurams (gateway towers), galleries, shrines and inner temples is adorned with thousands of carvings and paintings of gods and goddesses, most importantly, Meenakshi, an avatar of the Goddess Parvati – the divine consort of Lord Shiva.

Entering the temple, I moved closer to my guide, afraid of losing him among the throngs. The dim interior was lit only by candles, but most of the light was muted by the thick haze of incense and the bodies of worshippers. There was a heavy floral scent, too. Every woman and girl squeezed into the temple was adorned with big garlands, every deity was covered in bright petals, and yet more blooms were being presented as offerings to the gods. My head vibrated with

the continuous hum of chatter, chanting and prayers, individually quiet but loud en masse.

An important pilgrimage site, Meenakshi is dedicated to the wedding of Meenakshi and Sundaresvara, and dates back to the sixth century BC. More than 33,000 brightly colored figurines adorn the temple, both inside and on the towering exterior.

With the crowds, we shuffled through the halls and past the lotus ponds to the Hall of a Hundred Pillars. The temple’s best known for its closing ‘going to bed’ ceremony. Every evening, Brahmin priests carry the image of Shiva through the temple to be reunited with

his wife, Meenakshi. The procession is accompanied by chanting, cymbals and plumes of incense. Shiva’s then laid to rest for the night in goddess Meenakshi’s sanctum. Nowhere in India have I felt as transported as my visit here, where I was warmed by seeing multiple generations hold hands, make offerings and pray together.

Get me there: A 16-day tailor-made trip to Tamil Nadu starts from $3,855pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

26 | AUDLEY TRAVELER

INDIA

DURGA PUJA, CALCUTTA

By Niall Causer India’s oldest port, Calcutta is considered the country’s cultural capital. This vibrant, lively city is known for its colonial history and architecture, Mother Teresa’s charitable headquarters, the Victoria Memorial and the vast Howrah Bridge. I’ve visited several times, but my most recent trip coincided with festival season – a first for me.

Though it usually occurs in mid-October, the Durga Puja festival requires year-round preparation, which means that you can gain

an insight into the festival without traveling during the official celebration dates. The Hindu festivities honor Shakti, the female principal of divine energy, as well as celebrating the victory of the goddess Durga over the evil demon Mahishasura.

The city’s skilled artisans create Durga idols and statues all year. Production is highest in Kumartuli and, as my local guide led me through this potters’ quarter, we peeked through open doorways to see the workers sculpting. Some paused to tell us why they’d chosen to depict that particular part of the Hindu story. Most of their pieces were larger than I’d anticipated – exquisitely sculpted and adorned with fabric. One seamstress was hand-sewing sequins to a sari to ensure the goddess looked her best.

Locals also descend on Calcutta’s flower markets to purchase flower arrangements worthy of their deities. We wandered through, admiring the perfumed displays and the Howrah Bridge, which dominates the skyline. Incense fills the air, matched by the strong floral scents, while the local tradesmen holler over each other.

My guide told me that during the five-day festival, practitioners offer prayers to welcome the goddess, conduct rituals to honor different female energies, and hold evening folk dances. The flower-draped idols are paraded through the streets towards their final destination, the Hugli River. Standing in the packed streets, I was overwhelmed by the joyous chaos: music, chanting and the scent of cooking filled the air and everyone danced as they watched the statues go past.

Petals and paint The build-up to Durga Puja sees artisans making sculptures and flowers being sold

Get me there: A 13-day tailor-made trip to Calcutta starts from $3,182pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

AUDLEY TRAVELER | 27