BUY NOW, WEAR FOREVER THE SIGNET RING
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS CLASSIC ACCESSORY audreyalamode.com
BUY NOW, WEAR FOREVER SIGNET RING EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS CLASSIC ACCESSORY
BY: AUDREY COYNE
COPYRIGHT, LEGAL NOTICE & DISCLAIMER This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are not allowed to give or sell this guide to anyone else. Please note that this guide has been written to serve as both wardrobe and shopping inspiration and is to be used only as a guide for selecting your perfect signet ring. As with everything I advocate on my site and YouTube channel, you should never go broke for fashion and I encourage you to take your time to find the perfect piece for your personal style and budget and always build your jewelry box gradually to ensure you have pieces that you can and will wear for years to come. The information in this eBook is heavily based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author has made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this book, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. This information is to be used at your own risk. The author cannot guarantee results or any specific outcomes gleaned from using the methods outlined in the following pages. © 2018 by Audrey Coyne, Audrey A La Mode. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher. For permission requests, please email audreyalamodeblog@gmail.com. This eBook may be printed for personal use by the purchaser.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter 1: Introduction ........................................................................6 Chapter 2: What Is A Signet Ring? ......................................................7 Chapter 3: A Note On Craftsmanship ..................................................9 Chapter 4: What Shape Is Right For You? ............................………..15 Chapter 5: What Metal Should You Choose? ....................................18 Chapter 6: Engraving Types & The Pros And Cons Of Each .............20 Chapter 7: What Engraving Should You Choose? .............................23 Chapter 8: What I Chose ............................................……………......26
CHAPTER 1: Introduction When it comes to building my wardrobe, I gravitate toward classic, well-made pieces that I can wear for years to come. I extend this philosophy to everything from my blazers and sweaters to my footwear and jewelry, and I would rather wait patiently for the perfect piece than settle for something less just to fill spot in my closet or jewelry box. With this ethos in mind, I have been slowly building a collection of classic, beautifully made, jewelry that I can wear and love for years to come. These pieces include delicate diamond studs, a simple gold bangle and dainty diamond necklace. As I've built this small but meaningful collection there's always been one piece that I've wanted - a signet ring. This timeless treasure is one that I have coveted for years for it's classic sensibility, rich history and personalization, but I have waited to make it my own until I found one that met all my requirements for craftsman, style and design. After years of searching I've finally found the perfect piece and enclosed here I'm sharing everything you need to know about choosing your own signet. This information and advise is as a result of my own extensive research and plenty of expertise from the incredibly knowledgable team at Ruff's Signet Rings which has been crafting these lovely pieces since 1904.
CHAPTER 2: WHAT IS A SIGNET RING?
Simply speaking, a signet ring (from Latin 'signum' meaning sign) is an engraved ring typically adorned with one's initials, or a design. The wearing of these simple silhouettes dates back to ancient Egypt where they were used by queens, pharaohs and the like to sign documents before distinctive personal signatures became common practice. As you can imagine, the individuals who relied on these signets for formal documentation kept them under lock and key and only brought them out when needed. As time passed, these rings were worn more regularly, engraved with family crests and coats of arms and were often destroyed upon the owner's death. Today, these rings are passed down from generation to generation and commissioned for important milestones including graduations, major birthdays, weddings and births. Now, why do I want one of these timeless pieces? As a lover of history I am completely smitten with the rich historical significance of these pieces and how their use helped shape the world we live in. On another level, I also love the idea of owning and wearing a piece traditionally reserved for men. The act of wearing typically "masculine" items such as crisp oxfords, tailored blazers and beautiful brogues is one that I've been practicing since my earliest memory and I love the way
these pieces offset more feminine touches for a customized, personal style. Above all else though, I love the customization element of a signet and the endless possibilities when it comes to making one your own by engraving it with something meaningful.
CHAPTER 3: A NOTE ON CRAFSTMANSHIP
When I first became aware of signet rings I was in middle school. I was instantly taken by their simple shape, rich gold hue and the way they delicately adorned the fingers of everyone from historical figures to fictional members of my favorite books and films. I loved how these personal pieces spoke volumes of the wearer and silently contributed to their personal style. All while offering a glimpse into their unique story. Needless to say, I hoped to have a customized piece of my own one day and have spent the last 20+ years studying various styles and iterations of signets in books, films, museums (The MET has some amazing rings on display!) and most recently blogs and Pinterest. Throughout this amateur study, I have established a few requirements for my own signet and the jeweler that will help make it a reality. I've outlined these points below along with why they're important to me and why I think they're important things to decide before choosing your own signet.
OVAL OR ROUND SHAPE While many silhouettes are available, I personally prefer the more traditional oval or round design. I love how classic this is and I think it will compliment both my wardrobe and other jewelry beautifully.
SEAL ENGRAVING To my knowledge, two prominent types of engraving exist seal and surface. Just as the name suggests, a surface engraving is one that only grazes the surface of the ring while a seal engraving is deeper and results in a more prominent engraving that I think catches the light beautifully. Today, countless jewelers and online retails offer engraved signets but in my research, very few of them do it by hand and made to order. In the name of efficiency and cost, many signets available today are machine made and while there's certainly nothing wrong with that, I prefer a handmade option.
SOLID BACK A solid face back is another feature that I am looking for in my signet. Even though this detail won't be visible while wearing the ring, I think it speaks to the overall quality and craftsmanship of a handmade signet and it's a feature I would rather not compromise. Also, since I want a solid gold signet an open back won't be necessary to allow light through any colored stones.
SOLID GOLD, NOT PLATED Along those same lines, I would like a solid gold signet rather than one that is plated. When making thoughtful purchases that I hope to have forever, I always opt for the highest quality to include the longevity of the materials. In the case of my jewelry, that means solid gold in either 14 or 18 karat.
EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE Last but certainly not least, personable, helpful and friendly customer service is of the utmost importance to me. There are few things I value more than pride in oneself and one's work and I think excellent customer service is an extension of this pride. I want to remember the creation of such a treasured piece with fondness and finding a friendly, trust-worthy jeweler is a key part of this.
RUFF'S SIGNET RINGS While researching jewelers and signet ring artisans, I took note of countless options and after delving deeper into each one, Ruffs was consistently recommended for their incredible craftsmanship, unsurpassed heritage and impeccable, friendly customer service. After reading every customer testimonial I could find, studying their styles, materials, process and final products for weeks, I ultimately made the confident decision to work with Ruffs on this very special gift. To begin the process, I sent a quick note to the Ruffs team outlining my desire to add a signet to my collection for my 31st birthday, and share the journey from start to finish both here and on my YouTube channel.
Almost immediately, I received a reply from Ali Ruff who not only answered every question I had, but has very graciously offered to gift me one of their incredible pieces in exchange for this series. Needless to say, I am completely blown away by this incredible gift and I couldn't be happier to share the process with you. I've outlined a short Q&A with Ali that speaks to their impeccable craftsmanship, knowledge of signets and detailed customer service. Q: Thank you so much for taking the time to answer these questions, Ali! To start things off, can you give us a little background on your family's business and why you've chosen to make signets? A: You’re most welcome Audrey! Our family business was founded in 1904 by my Great Great Grandfather Mark Henry Ruff and it is now in it’s fifth generation. Since my father, also Mark, took the reigns in the late 1980’s we’ve very much concentrated on signet rings and cufflinks. At the time the price of gold was very high and signet rings were being stamped out of very thin metal. My father spotted a gap in the market for a more substantial, cast ring and set about finding the perfect crafts people to make this happen. My father is now researching for his PHD whilst I take care of the day to day running of the business.
Q: One of the things that drew me to your company was your commitment to superior craftsmanship and that you carefully craft each ring by hand. Can you share a brief overview of what goes into creating your signets, and why you choose to craft them by hand? A: Creating a signet ring typically takes four weeks. We allow a week for the making of the wax model of the basic ring and the casting thereof; one week for the statutory hallmarking - this involves sending the ring to the Sheffield Assay Office; a week for engraving + a contingency week. We use various outworkers for these tasks. All highly skilled, small family businesses, all of whom we’ve worked with for many years. Some even worked with my Grandfather! We cast each piece which allows us to have complete control over the size, shape and weight of a given ring. This contrasts with a stamped out ring which is beholden to the individual dies a manufacturer holds. Q: In a world where too many retailers skimp on materials and craftsman, what sets you and your products apart? More specifically, how do your signets differ from many others on the market A: Our ultimate UPS is that we do not sell rings from stock. Each ring is cast as a one off and tailor made for each client. You’ll notice I mention ‘cast’. This is how we create our rings, as a whole piece either from new gold or utilizing a customer's old sentimental gold, rather than stamping the ring from a sheet of metal and joining it at the band.
We feel this gives the best possible result - a ring of equal substance and elegance. Some of our competitors (those who stamp their rings) are critical of casting but we have evolved and indeed perfected this method over a quarter of a century and it is perfect. Q: There are five marks inside each of your signets. Can you describe each of them and their significance? A: The marks you refer are the hallmarks. These are a legal requirement and also a great way of learning the story of the ring. Inside our gold rings you’ll find the following; our maker’s mark - CNAR (Cyril Norman Aubrey Ruff my Great Grandfather). A stylised Rose which is the represents The Sheffield Assay Office where all our products are sent for hallmarking. Next is an Imperial Crown and a number, either 375, 585, 750 or 916 indicating the parts of pure gold in 9ct, 14ct, 18ct and 22ct respectively. And finally a letter, for 2018 you’ll see a lowercase t.
CHAPTER 4: WHAT SHAPE IS RIGHT FOR YOU? When it comes to signet ring shapes, I thought there were only 2 obvious options - round and square. As I delved deeper and learned more about the endless possibilities, I found that there are actually a variety of shapes and sizes ranging from round to octagon and everything in between. Though I'm sure you can find a craftsman capable of casting your signet into any shape you like (I've even seen hearts!), for the sake of this post and my purposes I'm only going to focus on the 6 shapes that Ruff's offers. Below, I've outlined the design points for each shape.
STRAIGHT OVAL: First up is straight oval. This shape is far and away the most classic signet shape available and for obvious reasons, is one of Ruff's most popular. In their own words, this shape is "a classic oval that is tailored to an individual’s engraving - it could therefore be a taller oval or a fatter oval to perfectly encompass the particular device. This minute adjustment to dimensions applies to all shapes, of course. It’s the most popular because the signet ring is a very traditional product and shouldn’t be all singing, all dancing with bells on it. The straight oval is undoubtedly the conservative ring of choice." Based on this description alone, I bet you can guess which design I've decided to go with.
BULBOUS OVAL: Next up is the bulbous oval which is best characterized as “chunky”. In Ruff's own words: "Over the years I have deliberately chosen to use this word because it either confirms a person’s choice or deters! The bulbous oval has gold bulked up on its shoulders and is therefore a much heavier ring than its counterpart, the straight oval. It is a good illustration of a shape that cannot be stamped out." ROUND: When I started on this journey, I thought round was the obvious choice for a classic signet and in certain instances, this is the case. By Ruff's own explanation, "inevitably there are some devices that beg to be framed by a circle rather than an oval or square." According to Ruff's this is "potentially a cumbersome looking ring but, with the right tweak here and there, this becomes an elegant alternative." CUSHION: When it comes to classic signet shapes, the cushion is one for the books. Based on Ruff's description, the cushion "comes second to the straight oval [and] is more subtle than either the round or the Oxford." Plus, it "was a favourite in the Victorian days - indeed the inspiration for its inclusion in the range." OCTAGON: If you're looking for something a little less conventional, the octagon is a great option that Ruff's characterized in their earlier brochure as “a more modern shape for the Naughties” and lo and behold it’s now 2011! There is something new about the shape, though, and it is superb when set with a stone."
OXFORD: Although many engravings suit round shapes beautifully, some need a square frame and "the Oxford fills this role splendidly. By rounding the corners we present a ring that is not as stark as a square or rectangle proper but still gives the device the edge it demands. It is a heavier ring too."
CHAPTER 5: WHAT METAL SHOULD I CHOOSE? Like most jewelry, signets are available in a variety of metals to suit your personal preferences and budget. The standard offerings are sterling silver, platinum, gold plate and solid gold (yellow, white and rose). Given my personal preference of solid, yellow gold, I'm going to focus on that for the sake of this chapter. Given that pure gold is 24 karats, and thus 24 parts pure gold, any karat below that is made up of 9, 12, 14, 18 etc. parts pure gold and other metals (typically copper, silver and zinc). These various mixtures contribute to the hue and durability of each, and it's important to understand their pros and cons in order to make the best decision for you. Below, I've embedded the specifics of the most common karats in order to help you decide which is best for you and your needs. 10 karat Gold: The first thing to note about 10k gold is that it contains more alloy than gold with 41.7% gold and 58.3% alloy. The minimal amount of gold found in 10k gives it a slightly paler hue than larger karats, but it's difficult to see these differences at first glance. Also, 10k can tarnish more quickly than larger karats but is also more durable than these larger karats.
14 karat Gold: 14k gold seems to be the most popular because it strikes a lovely balance of hue and durability (though if you get a well-made 18k there should be little difference in durability between it and 14). As the name suggests, 14k gold contains 58.5% gold and has a beautiful yellow gold color that is harder to distinguishable from 18k than it's 10 and 12 karat counterparts. 18 karat Gold: The next karat I want to discuss is my personal favorite for it's incredible god hue and durability. 18k gold consists of 75% gold and has the highest concentration of gold among the most commonly sold golds on the market - it's unlikely to find karats higher than 18 because they are far to delicate for everyday wear. Like I mentioned above, 18k gold has a tendency to be softer than 14k gold and in some instances it can show wear and tear more quickly than lower karats but it has the loveliest, richest gold hue that I think is well worth needing a few more polishes in your lifetime. For reference, my beloved David Yurman stack that I wear on my right ring finger is 18k gold and my vintage bracelet that I wear on my right wrist is 14k gold.
CHAPTER 6: ENGRAVING TYPES & THE PROS AND CONS OF EACH To kick things off, let's go over the types of engraving available. Generally speaking, there are three types of engraving and each offers a different end result to suit a customer's preferences and budget. In my research I've seen more than these three but for the sake of this post I'm only going to showcase these as they seem to be the most common. These types are machine engraving, hand engraving and laser engraving and I've outlined a little more about each one below. MACHINE ENGRAVING: First up is machine engraving. This method of engraving is very popular among many well-known, mass producing jewelers and much like the name suggests, it utilizes a machine for the engraving and I've seen it frequently tied to surface engravings. To create this type of engraving, the ring or pendant is secured in place and an engraving tool executes the inscription or design while the engraver or designer traces the pattern. As you can imagine, this method can be limiting because the machinery is only capable of producing the templates it is equipped with so you have to choose what's available and are left with no room for creativity.
Also, as with most mechanically produces items the engravings tend to be very precise and neat with very little (if any) variation from piece to piece and the engravings aren't very deep so they may not last very long before needing a touch-up. HAND ENGRAVING: Next up is my personal favorite - hand engraving or seal engraving as it is sometimes referred to. Much as the name suggests, this type of engraving is expertly executed by hand, often in reverse to suit the original use of signets, and is an art form that has been around for thousands of years. As with anything done by hand, no two pieces are exactly alike so you can ensure a level of uniqueness to your piece when you choose this method. Also, because of the time and expertise required to perfect such an engraving, hand engraving tends to take longer and justifiably cost more than the other two options. Another major benefit of this method is the freedom it allows. Rather than being bound by the restraints of a machine's templates, hand engraving allows for virtually any design under the sun and is 100% customizable for each person. This method also results in a deeper engraving that lasts for generations. Plus, it's absolutely gorgeous!
LASER ENGRAVING: Last but not least, laser engraving is very similar to machine engraving in that it also uses a machine to execute the design, but it offers more flexibility. In this case, a design is programed into a computer and produced by a laser (machine). Unlike machine engraving that is limited to only a set number of templates, laser engraving allows for more customization but just like machine engraving these designs are often very precise and neat and have little to no variation in each cut which ultimately creates a very uniform looking design. Another benefit of laser engraving is that it can be used on a variety of metals (including gold) - such as titanium and stainless steel. This allows for more options to suit your individual budget and personal preferences.
CHAPTER 7: WHAT DESIGN SHOULD I CHOOSE? Now that we've gone over the types of engravings, I want to touch on the styles and designs you can choose from. As you can imagine, your design choices are often dictated by the engraving type you choose, but traditionally speaking signets are engraved with either a heraldic symbol or family crest, personal monogram or custom design. Here I've outlined a little more about each. HERALDRY: First up is heraldry which is essentially "the system by which coats of arms and other armorial bearings are devised, described, and regulated." As you can imagine, there is an incredible amount of history housed within the study and use of heraldry and to have a deep understanding of both heraldry and heraldic symbols can take years. For the sake of this post I am only going to lightly touch on the two main categories that are often utilized in signet ring design. FAMILY CREST OR COAT OF ARMS: A coat of arms or crest is a heraldic design that represents a family or families, person, state, organization or corporation. Given the historical purpose of a signet ring, you can imagine that these are a very popular choice for engravings. Often times in this instance a customer will go into the signet ring process with their crest already available, but if you're interested in this route and don't know your crest the best signet ring designers will help you find it! In the case of Ruff's Signet Rings, Ali explained that they "have books of crests available (Fairbairn’s and Debrett’s) and are always happy to help customers find a crest."
Ali also shared that "there isn’t a crest for every name and sometimes there are tens of crests for one name!" If you don't have a crest though, not to worry because "you have a great opportunity to create your own design and should never be put off a signet ring due to lack of crest!" So wonderfully said and I completely agree! Which brings us to the next category heraldic symbols. HERALDIC SYMBOLS: Technically, family crests are heraldic symbols but here I want to go over the use of individual symbols such as birds, crowns etc. When it comes to symbolism there are countless options with different meanings to suit everyone and it's my personal favorite for engravings. As a lover of symbolism, I'm fascinated by the meanings behind different flowers, animals and figures and it's something that I love for personalizing jewelry, accessories and housewares. Even though the study of symbolism is varied and diverse, a simple google search will often suffice to help you narrow in on the symbols that best represent you and your hopes, dreams, values and characteristics. MONOGRAM OR INITIALS: Next up is a monogram or initials and is another fan favorite when it comes to signet rings. I love the personalization that comes from having your monogram etched into a signet ring and I think that it's a wonderful way to customize not only your jewelry but also your clothing and decor - in moderation of course. Much like symbols and coats of arms, the design options are endless for these and especially if you work with a designer who will be hand engraving your signet, you can choose just about any font under the sun.
CUSTOMIZED, ORIGINAL DESIGN: Last but not least (for the sake of this post) is a 100% original customized design. I LOVE the idea of an already personalized item being customized even further and have seen designs that range from sentimental to funny and each one tells a story unique to the owner that makes it so special. Plus, if you work with a truly stellar signet ring designer like Ruff's, they can help you design something unique.
CHAPTER 8: WHAT I CHOSE Now that we've gone over the basics of signet rings, I want to share what I chose. I chose a straight oval for it's classic silhouette, 18K gold for it's rich hue, and a bumblebee design because of the rich symbolism tied to these tiny little workers. Bumblebees are connected to the sun and often represents brightness. The bee also symbolizes community, cooperation, hard work and personal power - how cool is that? What's more, many sources claim that the bumblebee serves as a reminder to pursue your dreams, no matter how great they seem and to also extract the sweetness of life. These lessons are exactly what I strive to get out of life every day and I couldn't be happier about having a delicate reminder on my hand. I've also chosen to wear my ring on my pinky because I like the tradition of it, and the fact that not many people wear rings on their outer digits. This automatically allows the ring to make a statement but because the ring is delicate, it's still subtle enough for my jewelry tastes. Needless to say, I am completely in love with the finished product and every little detail far exceeded my expectations. From the incredible customer service to the beautiful packaging and impeccable craftsmanship, I am completely over the moon and I can't thank the Ruff's team enough.
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