INNOV∆TION Spring Edition Issue no: 1848
The one & only: Coco Chanel
Fashion meets 3D technology
Technology news around the world Innovative crafts
EXPLORING INDIA £1.50
THIS SPRING
CONTENT 4 MONTHLY NEWS
Fashion is not something
that exists in dresses only,” Coco Chanel once said. “Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening”.
Technology and fashion news of inventions, facts and updates.
5 BACK IN TIME... With the one and only Coco Chanel. The designer’s life and achievements,
What the famous designer did not realise is that her own words will be significant and relevant even after 50 years.
FASHION 6 MEETS TECHNOLOGY
Today, fashion and technology, traditionally seen as uncomfortable bedfellows, are coming together to work hand in hand like never before.
How 3 D printing technology is changing the fashion industry.
Fashion editors were invited to the launch of the new Apple Watch, demonstrating how much the ground has changed. Google decided to team up with sunglasses brand Luxottica, which produces Ray Band and Persol, to design a new range of its glass wear. And this is just the beginning of the friendship between fashion and science.
8 DIY- YOUR
OWN TSHIRT
Create you own personlised t-shirt in a few minutes just by using our gide.
In this spring edition we are showing you what has 2015 brought so far in this degital fashion world, by inroducing you to accessories that will change your perspective of everything you know about today’s trends.
9 What’s on this Martch? A long list of exciting events this Martch you need to visit and see.
For this Spring , we can also imagine lot of bright colours, and the one place that knows how to combine colours and textile arts is India.
TRAVELING TO
10 GREAT INDIA
We are exploring exotic India and bringing you ancient crafts.
Yours, Aukse B. nel Picture by Cha
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Monthly News So what has 2015 brought for us? Well, we all know about Google glasses, but have you ever heard about rings that soon will be used instead of phones or watches? If not, then let’s look at the new 2015 inventions
Picture by Ringly
Smart jewellery creator Ringly has received a funding of $ 5.1 million from noted venture capital company Andreeseen Horwitz, Ringy, who is the creator of an 18-karat gold smart ring outfitted with almond-sized, semi-precocious stones. After connecting via Bluetooth to users’ mobile devices, Ringly then illuminates and vibrates in a variety of patterns in order to signify notifications from Facebook, Twitter, Ebay etc- as well as alerts the users of calls, texts and even calendar alerts. The price of this invention starts from $195 to $250, depending upon the choice of stone. New technology is not just useful but also is stylish.
As 3D printers are becoming cheaper as well as more integrated in our lives. And even designers grow more creative, patients are benefiting from a revolution in new medical technology. ‘Bespoke Innovations’, a San Francisco- based company founded an orthopedic surgeon and a designer to use 3D printers to make custom-designed “fairings”, or stylish fitted covers for prosthetic legs. Picture by LiveScience British designer Amy Winters, who makes clothes that change colour in respond, now offers a new CuteCircuit’s clothes range . The price starts at around £90 for a sports top that glows when you run, but when it comes to mini-skirts and dresses that can switch between patterns, the price can reach up to a few thousand pounds. Even though, the designer agreed that fashion and technology is a tricky thing, “ You need to collaborate from the start, otherwise it won’t work”. Her latest creations were presented at the annual CES technology show in Las Vegas. The British designer received a lot of interest and attention from big fashioned named brands. Picture by Rainbow winters
A new watch called the Withings Activite Pop is a fitness tracker for people who want to feel comfort and be in style. The new invention looks like a regular analog watch, but the device is able to track your activity and even sleep. In addition to telling you the time of day, the tracker also includes a dial that shows your progress toward your activity goals from 0 to 100 percent. The device is not cheap, the price is around $450, however you can get a more affordable version for $150. Picture by Withings
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Back in time...
C OCO C HANEL Coco Chanel - needs no introduction. We all know her influence, which is as strong as ever. With her well-known little black stresses as well as suits, the fashion designer created timeless designs that are popular even today.
T
he designer Coco Chanel was born in August, 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. After her mother’s death, Chanel was raised by nun, who taught her how to sew- which later became her unextraordinary life’s path. The designer’s famous nickname ‘Coco Chanel ‘ was created by during her brief career as a singer. The fashion designer performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was introduced as “Coco”. Some say the name came from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it was a ‘shortened version of cocotte, the French word, which means ‘kept woman’, according to an article in the Atlantic.
Famous designs and Life
Picture by Rhoberhto
Picture by Chanel One of the most well-known 1920s revolutionary designs created by the designer was - little back dress. She took a colour one associated with mourning and showed to the world how great it could be for eveningwear. She also designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for Jean Cocteau’s play “Orphee”. Coco Chanel was known not just for her talent but also One of the important relationships the designer had was with a wealthy English Industrialist called Arthur Wdwards called ‘Boy’ Capel. He helped her to move into a Parisian apartment and financially helped her with first shops. The relationship lasted nine years, even after when Capel got married in 1918. Coco Chanel opened her first clothes shop on Paris’s Rue Cambon in 1910 just selling hats. However, she did not stop just
with fashion; in the 1920s, she launched her first perfume “Chanel 5”, which was the first to feature designer’s name. She described perfume as
“is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion...that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure”. Now... The famous designer died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. A little more than a decade after the icon’s death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took over her company to continue Chanel’s work. Today the company, as believed, earns hundreds of millions each year.
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3
D
We live in an age that many are calling the Third Industrial Revolution. 3D printing, more professionally called additive manufacturing, moves from mass production line and brings us to a new one-off production. As Poll Tallon, demonstrator in digital media and software said,
“Now with 3D technology there are no boundaries or limits any more when it comes to creating solid objects!�. This new technology means that 3D printers turn computer models into real physical things. Someday, probably, even soon in the future people will look back and view our
PRINTING current manufacturing processes as we today view something called blacksmithing. HISTORY OF 3D PRINTER AND USAGE The concept of 3D printing is by no means new. Even though, Chuck Hull invented and patented solid imagining the the mid -1980s, when he found 3D systems, inc, the new printing system has been used properly in the industry just for 20 years. Today, advances in the technology have been (still is) made, including the size of the printers themselves, the materials they can use and many more other things. Today, the new technology has dramatically changed several industries, for example take the health field- medical professional have used 3D printing to create stutom leg braces and even a titanium jaw. And if you are still not impressed, then the 3D devices also print mechanical parts for cars. Therefore, Poll Tallon, said that
companies, such as Ferrari are using 3D printers on a daily basis, and in particular at raice tournments. Morefore, Poll Tallon also mentioned that people try to find a way to print food, in particulat meat without using animals. Quite impressive, isn’t it?! So how do the printers actually work? Can something that looks like a officeprinter actually print solid materials? As many new invetions, everything starts with idea and concepts. After this, the second stage of 3D printing is laying out an original idea with digital modeling using computer aid design or modeling software. With the computer software programmes, you are able to create a virtual model of the object you want to print. The programme then divides the object into digital sections so the 3D printer is able to build it layer by layer. Those sections, help and work as guides for the printer, so that the object is the exact object you want to achieve. The manufacturing involved in 3D
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TECHNOLOGY printing is based on building up layers in a particular formation to create a 3D dimensional object. After your final designed object file is sent to the 3D printer, you can choose a spesific material, which depending on the printer you are using; could be rubber, paper, plastics or metal, etc. The 3D printer processes vary, however the material is usually sprayed, squeezed and other ways transferred from the printer onto a platform to make your desirable object. FASHION AND SIENCE Fashion industry is not an exception when it comes to the usage of 3D printers. In addition, fashion is creating a close friendship with science, and lets in the newest technology, which is used more and more in today’s world. To picture how 3D printing is slowly but effectively transforming the fashion
world, try to imagine and contrast life today with life before computers and the internet. That is how huge the impact is on fashion. Over the past 15- 20 years, fashion has been a manufactory process, now with the help of new technology production of clothes and accessory items is becoming so much easier. It saves time and the quality and details are as good, if not better, as someone who made by hand.
Just think about designers in their offices, home or anywhere just creating a shoe prototypeor manfactoring final products without anyone elses help whatsoever. Addictive manufactoring is gives you an opporunity to produce something quickly, and efectively with endless
options . FAMOUS 3D CLOTHE DESIGNS AND THE FUTURE One of the most well-known 3D printing dresses creations were designed by Micheal Schmidt and modulated Francis Bitonti. It was worn by queen of burlesque Dita Von Teese. The dress was assembled from 17 different size pieces, dyed black, lacquered and covered with over 13,000 Swaroski crystals to create this masterpiece. And this is just one example of many more, showing us that additive manufacturing could be used on a daily basis in the near future . With new inventions comes discussions. Many people ask themselves; if 3D printers are able to create almost anything just with one button push, then what people are going to do in the future?
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DIY We are all about new innovations and you discovering yourself! So as this Spring is kicking in and we are giving you a challenge to create your own personalised t-shirt! It is very easy, and it won’t take you longer than 5 minutes! Let’s not waiste any more words and get started! You will need: Blank t-shirt, Photo, Transfer paper, Printer, Sizers and Iron.
HOW TO..? 1. Start with a basic t-shirt and find a picture, which you want to
use on it. 2. After choose your picture or statement and print it from your computer. Make sure you are using a good quality picture, preferably larger than MP2 (use search tools) and using ‘photoshop’ programme (if you have) check the size and quality. 3. Now, if your picture needs some cutting or shaping, do that! 4. Cut through the borders of your picture from the paper and adjust the picture on the shirt in the same way you want it to appear on your tshirt. 5. Now, take transfer paper (you can get it from Amazon for £10) and place it on the top of the picture. 6. Now, using the iron, gently press over the picture with the transfer paper over it on your shirt and move the iron over all places, especially over the edges and keep the iron for 2-3 seconds on each section of the picture. 7. Gently remove the transfer paper and enjoy your new personalised t-shirt!
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S
prinkle of Glitter, one of many well-known Youtuber’s does not remind you anything to Hollywood celebrities; no those celebrities seem to be so perfect with their perfect lives. Watching her we somehow see ourselves; unpolished, funny,and even in a weird way charming . We have this strange connection with her because she deals with zits, feeling not confident in her own skin and feeling excited when things go by the plan. The youtuber decided to performe for the first time in her home town, Northampton. More than 300 fans came to see and get to know their idol. However, Sprinkle of Gllitter admitted that she never planned to have her own chanel and nether become famous., “it just happened”. Morefore, sharing her story about how she got in the industry, where she is today, the youtuber said, “It is a boring answer, but I’ve never been inspired by anyone, and the only thing that made me start Youtube was my own blog”. When she was asked about her first video, the performer laughted and said that she had never been so nervious in her life before, “I can still remember the first video as well as the first German lady who wrote first comment, and it made my so happy and proud of myself knowing that I have one viewer”. Continuing with the show, the performer interacted with the audience by answering questions, telling stories and even dancing. There was a great atmosphere that left the audience with unforgettable moments.
What’s on this March?
Materials advances in Space
24th March 2015 A great opportunity to attend a technology event focusing on materials for space. The day has been organised by the UK Space Agency and the Knowledge Transfer Network which are offering you to meet lead developers from the space community, both industrial and academic.
Photo by UK Space Agency
MEX: Under the skin of user experience
25th March 2015 The Mex even in London is giving best practical skills for enhancing mobile user experience. By bringing together a diverse community of designers, technologists and strategists will be giving you an intelectual day.
Photo by MEX
Ladies that UX Brighton @ Spring Forward
26th March 2015 Ladies that UX is coming back as part of the Spring Forward Festival and are having a very special event for you. The event will host three amazing speakers to share their experience, how to learn from your mistakes and move forward.
Photo by Ladies that UX
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Ancient heritage through the crafts HISTORY The history of Indian handcrafts goes back to almost 5000 years from now. There are many examples of crafts from the Indus Valley Civilisation. Religion is one of the keys and it has a big impact on the tradition of crafts, as well needs of the people and also the needs of the ruling elites. Therefore, to the foreign and domestic trade have also played an important role in the development of different craft forms in India. During the Kushana period sculpture, textile making, leather products were the main handcrafts that integrated foreign influences and used them with the Indian setting. Textile as a craft plays an important role in India. This handcraft has a rich heritage and the origin of textiles in India goes back to the Indus Vally Civilization where people used homespun cotton for weaving their clothes. In fact, the art of cotton spinning traces back to 3000 BC and still continues today. The handcraft not only reflects the rich past but also cater to the requirements of the modern times. All those crafts tells some kind of story about people, their beliefs and their lives. A story that stays with us through their handcraft.
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Traditional Indian shoes: MOJARIS Footwear in India can tell about you more than you could ever imagine! In fact, footwear not only gives you information about the environment in which people walk, but also reveals the skills developed in that area which is important to creat footwear in the first place. Handmade mojari is one of the Indian crafts that attracts not just locals but also footwear lovers from all of the world. Mojari - is the generic name for the handcrafted ethnic footwear practiced since ancient India. “MOJARI” is produced in Rajasthan, India made by artisans mostly using vegetable tanned leather. The uppers are made of one piece of leather or textile embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowries’ shells, mirrors, bells or ceramic beads. It has a flat sole with round or pointed (sometimes extended) toes and closed counters, or with no counters at all, in the form of slipons. Craftsmen also are using burnished leather sewn to a cotton covering with eco-friendly and breahable cotton threads. While many of the elements of the production process involve exclusively men, women are associated at critical stages of the process; in particular in the delicate embroidery work, as well as the punching and the cutting of the uppers that is the hallmark of this footwear. Most of the family members are associated with production processes. Today, about 2000 families spread across nearly 75 villages are still involved in making mojaris. While women artisans make the uppers, their dexterous fingers embroidering colourful designs, men stitch the soles on. An Indian family who have been making mojaris for more than 50 years admitted that this more than just a business, “It is our family tradition passed by our great great grandfathers and we going to continue this craft as long as we are alive”.
Dewelling on the fast colour of the patola, a Gujarat poet wrote; “Padi patole
bhat faatey pan phite nahin” meaning the design laid down in the patola may be torn, but it shall never fade.
Unique Patola Patan handcraft Indian is known for its rich and ancient heritage in fine textiles. One of the most incredbile arts is Patola. This handcraft came from the area of Patan in the North Gujarat of western India. Historically, the art of Double Ikat patola weaving dates back to the centuries. Legend indicates that sometimes in the 12th Century AD, King Kumarpal of Solanki dynasty, invited 700 families of patola weavers from Jalna (South Maharashtra) to settle down and make one new patola each day for him. The unique patan is known for its beautiful colours, traditional Indian designs and durtability. Morefore, the potola has no reverse side; both of the sides have equal intensity of colour and design, this way making the craft even more desirable. Traditionally pure silk and natural dyes were used; justlast 100 years, tradition had given way to the use of fast to bleach and easy to dye chemical colours (dyes). Therefore the use of natural dyes in Patola is discontinued. But since last twenty years the importance to use of vegetable dyes became the consideration of its eco-friendliness and to maintain the tradition of old natural dyes in Patola. The more incredible aspect is that takes 40 to 50 days to weave a sari. Thus 4 to 5 persons take a periods of 5 to 6 months to complete a sari depending on the intricacy of the design. Mr. Vinayak, manager of Patan Patola House, said that the handcraft cannot be replaced with any computers or manufactoring process, because of it’s diffculty as well as patola would lose its incredible value.
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