Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur by zareen a.abedin

Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

Executive summery Bextex Ltd. (the "Company") was incorporated in Bangladesh as a Public Limited Company with limited liability on 8 March 1994 and commenced commercial operation in 1995 and also went into the public issue of shares and debentures in the same year. The shares of the Company are listed in the Dhaka and Chittagong Stock Exchanges of Bangladesh. Bextex Ltd. is the most modern composite mill in the region. Bextex Ltd. has an installed capacity of 288 high-speed air-jet looms in its weaving section and a high-tech dyeing and finishing section with a capacity of 100,000 yards of finished fabric per day. This company is located at the Beximco Industrial Park. Bextex Ltd. has a state of the art composite knit fabric production mill, which serves the growing needs of high-quality knit garments exporters in Bangladesh. The project was set up as a state of the art knit fabric knitting, dyeing and finishing facility. During the year the Company produced and sold high quality of knit fabrics and bringing forth all the latest in hard and soft technologies in knitting, dyeing and finishing of knit fabric. Bextex Ltd. also has cotton and polyester blended yarn-spinning mill, with 122,000 spindles is one of the largest spinning mills of the country. The mill was set up to feed the country's export oriented industries.

COMPANY PROFILE Company name

BEXTEX LIMITED

Corporate headquarter

Bel TOWER, 17, Dhanmondi R/A, Dhaka-1205, Bangladesh

Operational headquarter

Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Factory

Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

Date of incorporation

Commercial production

1990

Business line

Manufacturing & Marketing of Yarn Woven, Knit and

30 May, 1984

Denim Listing status

Public listed company

Stock Exchange listing

Dhaka & Chittagong

Authorized capital in Taka

3,000 million Taka

Paid up capital in BDT

1,882.50 million Taka

Number of Shareholders

37,929

Number of Woven loom Installed

293

Number of Spindles Installed

119,520

Number of Denim Looms Installed

Number of Circular knit Machine Installed :

Production Capacity

28 Million Linear Meters

Number of Employers

5,181

Factory Equipment

different types of weaving, knitting. Dyeing Cutting, Sewing, Finishing & Generator machines Supplied by mostly Germany, Italy, Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA, Singapore etc

Production Capacity

12 to 18 tons/day

www.beximco.org

(Knit dyeing) Web site

Mission of the company: BEXTEX Ltd. is a full service vendor with strong vertically integrated production facilities as well as creative & analytical capabilities which clearly sets us apart from most other South Asian vendors.

Vision of the company: • Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA & Europe. • Use “Innovation” & “Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton & cheap labour. • Dominate these markets in high quality: Men's, Women’s, Children Shirts (Dress & Casual) Blouses (formal & casual), Skirts, Jackets Jeans & Casual non - denim bottoms Knitted tops & bottoms

Way from city university to bextex:

City

E N

S Abdullahpur

Banani

Mahakhali

Tongi

Beximco

Ashuli

EPZ

Chokroborti

Bipile

EPZ

Nobinagar

Plant layout of Bextex: Shinepukur

Rest House

BTL Garments

R o a d

Fresh Tex N Road

Road

BKL Garments

Padma

BKL

Gas Turbine WT P

Garme

Generator

Power

BDL

M ed ic al

Printing

BKL Garments

Printin gBPL

Road

Chille r G u a e d

Factory

Gard

R O A D

Gar den

Rest House

Quart er Guar d

Quarte r

Officers

Workers Canteen WTP

Quart er

Quarter

HRD

Garde n

Field

Yellow show room and Design studio

B T L Pond

R o a d

Pond Offic e

Mosqu e

Chille r

Boiler Chille r

Pack aging

Pond

Deer

Design studio Car park

Guard room

Workshop

Gas supply

G u ar d

Cante en

Organogram of manpower General Manager

Maintenance Manager

Knitting Manager

Dyeing Manager

Finishing Manager

Q.C Manager

Asst. Manager

Shift Officer

Electrical Incharge

Mechanical Incharge

Shifts: Eight hours shift. A shift

: 06:00 A.M – 02:00 P.M

B shift

: 02:00 P.M – 10:00 P.M

C shift

: 10.00 P.M – 06:00 A.M

General shift

: 9:00 A.M – 5:00 P.M

Layout of Beximco Knitting Ltd. General General Manager Manage

Wash room

Con room

Chemical ChemicalStorage Storage DG DG M

Manager Manage

LAB LAB

Manage r r

Compressor

S E Batch Batch preparation

preparation

Sub station Planni ng Office

Gige reFabric Inspection

Collar/cup Inspection

FABRIC FABRIC STORE STORE

Asst. Manager

Manage r

Knitting

Knitting Knittingsection section

Double jersey Section

Yarn Yarnstore store

Circular

Flat Knitting

Manager

Wash room

ice

Maintenance area

Offic off e

Sequence of Operation Knitting

Grey fabric inspection

Batch preparation

Singeing

Mercerizing

Scouring/Bleaching

Dyeing

Dewatering

Hydro extracting Slitting

Drying

Tube compacting

Stentering

Final Inspection Packing Delivery to Garment industry

Knitting Section:

Open Compacting

Knitting is the method of fabric formation continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging from one immediately preceding it. Yarn is the main raw material of knitting section. Yarn Storage

Yarn Storage

15 Flat knit machines

Manager

24 Automatic flat knit machines

5 1

5 0

2 5

2 6

4 9

2 4

2 8

2 3

2 7

1 6

1 3

1 0

1 7

1 4

1 1

1 8

1 5

1 2

1 9

3 0

2 9

2 0

2 1

2 2

Yarn stock

Table

Balance 5 1

4 5

3 1

3 6

3 5

3 4

3 9

3 8

3 7

Assistant Manager Manager

Storage of yarn and knitting machine spare parts

Yarn Storage

S E W N

Sources of raw materials: Main source of yarn is Padma Spinning Ltd. Other sources of raw material are as follows:          

Jamuna Spn. Mill Ltd, Advance Group Utha Spn. Mill Ltd Amber Spn. Mill Ltd Hanif TEX Square Spn. Mill Ltd Prim Spn. Mill Ltd Sahin tex Phartali tex(Indian) Munnu tex Youth Spn. Mill Ltd

Material sources also collected from overseas like India, Pakistan and Lycra from South Korea, China, Singapore, Taiwan, India etc.

Consumer of the products: Beximco knitting LTD. is a100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers of the products of the industry are given below:

• ZARA CALVIN • ENYCE • COOGI • MOTHER CARE • ZOO YOCK • S-OLIVER • TEMA. • RIVER ISLAND • T. LAND. • CHARTER HOUSE • BERSHKA • MAVI FASHION

• • • • • • •

JC PENNY WEARE APPAREL CALVIN KLEIN US POLO ROCAWEAR DEREON

Recommendable points of a buyer: • • • • • • • • •

Diameter of the fabric Design of the fabric GSM of the fabric Total wt. of the fabric Yarn count Types of yarn Color of the fabric Finishing of fabric. Handling & fastness property.

Production flow chart of knitting section: Knitting program from merchandising department Yarn selection according to fabric& GSM Selection of M\C diameter according to fabric diameter Change the cam setting according to fabric design Set the yarn into creel and join to the needle Run the M\C with desire RPM of M\C Knitted fabric

Knitting variable: • • • • • •

• • • •

Yarn count: - Yarn count indicates the fineness of yarn. It varies according to weight with length of the yarn. Yarn twist: - It is the torsion of yarn which helps the fibers to ad hear with each other. Spinning system: - This is the systematic way of giving torsion to the fibers. Yarn ply: - It is the number of ply of the yarn which depends on the required gsm of the fabric. Stitch length: - It is the length of the yarn which forms a single loop in a knitted fabric. If stitch length is increased, fabric gsm is decreased & vise versa. Yarn tension: - It is the given tension on the yarn during feeding in circular knitting machine. It depends on the required gsm of the fabric. If yarn tension is increased, then stitch length is decreased and fabric gsm is increased. And if yarn tension is decreased, then stitch length is increased and fabric gsm is decreased. Take down tension: - It is the tension created by increasing fabric take up roller speed. Yarn quality: - Fabric quality depends on the yarn quality. As for example, for producing slub single jersey we need slub yarn. Machine gauge: - It the number of needle in one inch area of a cylinder. G.S.M (gm/m2): For knitting it is the main parameter. It is controlled by loop length. If loop length increases GSM will decrease and vice versa. It is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance. It may also be calculated as below.

Classification of Knitting

Knitting

Warp knitting

Weft knitting

Circular knitting

Flat knitting

Single jersey

Double jersey

Circular knitting machine specification: M/C NO

M/C GAUGE

M/C DIA

MODEL NO

ORIGIN

NO. OF FEEDE R

M/C RPM

ODUCTION PER DAY(app.)Kg

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 45 49

20 20 28 18 24 24 24 24 24 20 28 24 24 24 24 24 18 20 20 28 28 20 20 20 20 18 18 20 18 16 18 22 18 18 18 18 18 18 14 20

30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 18 18 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 34 26

1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 -

UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK UK GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND TAIWAN JAPAN

90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 36 36 50 50 50 48 48 48 48 48 36 36

25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 25-28 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 17-20 20-25 15

600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 600 150 150 240 240 240 100 100 100 100 100 120 100

50 51

20 20

26 26

Single jersey machine

JAPAN JAPAN

36 36

15 15

100 100

Double jersey machine

Wale knitting: A method of making fabric by normal knitting means in which the loops are made from each wale thread are formed substantially along the length of the fabric characterized by the fact that each warp thread is fed more of us in the line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. Coarse knitting:A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means in which the loops made by each coarse thread are formed substantially across the width of the fabric, characterized by the fact that each weft thread is fed more of less at right angle to the direction in which the fabric is produced. Single jersey: A fabric in which all the loops of the Wales are intermeshed in one direction is called single jersey. There is only cylinder in single jersey machine. Double jersey:A fabric in which all loops of the alternate Wales are intermeshed in one direction and all the loops of the other Wales knitted at the same course intermeshed in the other direction is called double jersey. Dial and cylinder are used to make this type of fabric. Materials used for knitting process:

The main material used for knitting is yarn. Following are the different qualities of yarn that are used for knitting process:

Yarn

Count

Cotton

40/1 Ne 36/1 Ne 34/1 Ne 30/1 Ne 34/1 Ne 30/1 Ne 28/1 Ne 26/1 Ne 20/1 Ne 26/1 Ne 34/1 Ne 30/1 Ne

CVC

MĂŠlange

26/1 Ne 22/1 Ne 20/1 Ne

Spandex

40 Denier 75 Denier

polyester

150 Denier 75 Denier

Cotton yarn in creel

Yarn count used according to grey gsm: Grey Finish Yarn Stitch Lycra Machin Machine diameter Name of gsm gsm count length(m count(D) e gauge required m) fabric Single jersey 90 90 50/s cc 2.45 24 30 Single jersey 105 120 36/s cc 2.61 28 30 Single jersey 145 160 26/s cc 2.77 28 30 Single jersey 185 200 20/s cc 2.90 20 30 Single jersey 260 275 30/2 kc 3.10 18 30 Single jersey 135 150(silicon 28/s kc 2.62 24 30 finish) Single jersey 165 180(after 24/s kc 2.74 20 30 (3% viscose) wash 190200) Slub single 100 110 40/s 2.61 24 34 jersey(organi c cotton) Lycra single 175 190 34/s cc 3 20 24 30 jersey A/Stripe 195 210(after 18/s cc 2.96 20 26 single jersey peach finish) Multi feeder 195 " 20/s cc 3 24 36 single jersey STBPQ 165 180 28/s pc 2.55 24 30 STBPQ 185 200 24/s kc 2.68 24 30 STBPQ 215 230 20/s kc 2.96 24 30 Y/D STBPQ 210 220 18/s kc 3.10 20 30 Suede jersey 265 280 30/2 kc 3.10 18 30 Lycra fleece 245 260/270 30/s cc 2.8 20 24 30 Lycra Twill 210 220 34/s cc 3.05 75/D 24 30 fleece poly Frency 245 260 20/s kc 3.10 20 30 Lycra 225 240 30/s cc 2.80 20 24 30 F/Terry Thermal 210 220 26/s kc 3 18 30 Thermal 225 240 24/s kc 3.20 18 30 1Ă&#x2014;1 Normal 210 220 28/s cc 2.70 18 30 Rib

H/F Lycra 2×1 Rib 2×1 Rib Polo PQ

385

400

20/s kc

2.87

225 185

240 200

24/s kc 26/s

2.75 2.60

18 24

30 30

Relation between Grey GSM & Finish GSM: Finish process/Color shade % 1) White 2) Light color (0.5% – 2%) 3) Medium color (2% - 3.5%) Finish G.S.M. 4) Deep color (3.5 %– 6%) 160-180 5) Extra deep (6%- 9%) 180-200 200-220 220-235 235-245

(%)Percent increase/decrease 15% to 18% increase 18% to 20% increase 20% to 23% increase Count (Ne) 23% to 25% increase 25% to 30%34/s increase 30/s 28/s 26/s 24/s

FOR DOUBLE JERSEY (INTERLOCK) Finish G.S.M. 180-200 200-220 220-240 240-260 260-280

Count (Ne) 40/s 34/s 30/s 28/s 26/s

Relation between fabric diameter and machine diameter:

Count 30 28 26 24

Finish GSM 142 155 165 180

Grey fabric diameter increases then machine diameter 5-8% 8-12% 12-15% 15-20%

200

20-25%

Knitting Calculations:

Production calculation: Production per hour =

R.P.M × N .F × N .N × S .L( mm) × M .E ×60 kg 10 ×2.54 ×36 ×840 × yarncount ×2.2046

Here, R.P.M = Machine speed (Revolution per minute) N.F = Number of feeder N.N = Number of needle S.L = Stitch length M.E = Efficiency of machine

Some conversions: 1 cm = 10 mm 1 inch = 2.54 cm 1 yd = 36 inch 1 hank = 840 yd 1 kg = 2.2046 lb

Stitch length meter measurement for 28 gauge machine: Length of 4 yarns ( 35.40,35.65,35.60,34.75 ) are taken by stitch length meter for 5 revolution. Then stitch length is calculated as bellow: =

35.40 + 35.65 + 35.60 + 34.75 4

= 35.35 =

35.35 5

= 7.07 × 1000 =

7070 2640

= 2.67 mm

Measurement with stitch length meter Let, Finish GSM = 200 So, Grey gsm will be =

200 = 153.84 1.3

4320 = 21.6 200 95351.5 Stitch length should be maintained = = 2.869 cm 153.84 × 21.6

Yarn count should be used =

Calculation for total number of needle of a machine = G × D × π Here, G = Machine gauge D = Machine diameter

G.S.M calculation [G.S.M

gm/m2]

GSM means grams per square meter. In knitting fabric it is the main parameter. It is controlled by loop length. If loop length increases GSM will decrease and vice versa. It is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance. It may also be calculated as below. s × l × tex 100 s × l × 590 GSM = Ne

GSM =

Where, S = wale per cm course per cm. = wpc cpc. l = loop length in mm.

Procedure: 1. Industrial Calculation

of BKL:

Collect sample (s/j) by G.S.M cutter and weighted from the weighting balance. e.g.;

→ form balance we get 1.838g grey fabric

so, Gray G,S.M=1.838 ×100 g / m 2 =183.8gm/m 2 Calculate Finish G.S.M as like procedure1 By calculation finish G.S.M =235g/m 2

2. An industrial calculation about lb/100yd2=13.85[From calculation of 10 reading average] So, 100 yd 2 -weight=13.85lb So, 1 yd 2 –weight=

13.85 lb 100

So, 1 yd 2 =62.2gm ⇒ (0.9144m ) 2 =62.2 gm

⇒ 0.9144 2 ×1m 2 = 62.2 gm 62.2 ⇒1m = gm 0.99144 62.2 ⇒1m 2 = gm 0.84 = 74.64 gm 2

=0.1385

×453..6 gm

So, G.S.M calculation rule,

m / 100 × 453.6 gm / m 2 [here, m = weight in lb] G.S.M= 0,84

So, S.D=

CV%

1 =.316 10

.0.316 ×100 = 0.4236 % 74.64

From finish G.S.M calculating grey GSM, SL, count

→ Suppose a fabric involve 180 finishes G.S.M FinishG.S .M 180 = 138 = 1 .3 1.3 4320 4320 =24/s So, count= = F .G.S .M 180

So, gray G.S.M=

So, S.L =

95351.5 95351.5 = = 28.78 cm=2.9 mm count × G.GSM 24 ×138

Calculation of S.L where yarn count = 24

→ S.L=16.66d 1 28 count 1 =16.66 =.308 cm =3.08mm 28 24

=16.66

Calculation if fabric width = no. of needle × fabric specification D = machine diameter =( ΠDG × 4d ) =( (ΠDG ×

1 ) 28 ccount

For cotton count

G = machine gauge

Fabrics produced from single jersey machines are given below: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Plain jersey Polo pique Single lacoste \ single tuck back pique Double lacoste \ double tuck back pique Herringbone Pop corn Bubble knit Lapiqe Honey comb Slub terry Fred Perry Two tone pique Fleece

Fabric that are produced from Double jersey m/c: • • • • • • • • •

1×1 Rib 2×2 Rib 3×1 Rib 6×2 Rib Thermal Mini thermal Interlock Waffle Design jersey

Key accessories used in Circular: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Yarn feeder guide Needle Sinker Cam Cylinder VDQ pulley Pattern wheel Sinker cam cap Sinker trick ring Dial Needle retaining spring Cam box Cam plate Inventor Belt Creel MPF wheel

Operation procedure: Sample analysis: After receiving an order first step is analyzing the fabric. A sample is analyzed as per following system. Design analysis:-

Example: Here, = Knit loop  1 1

2 2

3 1

4 2

= Tuck loop = Miss loop

Cam set up: 1 2 3 4 Needle arrangement: - 1 2 3 4/ 1 2 3 4// This fabric can be produced by two tuck cam

Optimum cam set up:

2 Optimum needle: - 1 2 1 2/ 1 2 1 2// In BKL most of the fabrics are produced by using three tuck cams. The tuck cam set up for different fabric that is usually produced in BKL single jersey knitting machine are given below:

S.T.B – PQ

B – PQ

P â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PQ

FLEECE

In BKL for double jersey machine two Tuck cams are generally used to produce Rib, Interlock Thermal, Mini-Thermal, Waffle, Mini-Waffle etc fabric.

Inter lock D

Rib D

waffle

Thermal D

Mini waffle

Mini thermal

Flat knitting: Flat knitting machine: -

The machine is of flat from in shape is called a flat knitting machine. It is also known as v bed knitting machine. This machine is used to produce collar, cuffs, cardigans etc.

Types of Flat knitting: Flat knitting

Plain

semi jacquard

Jacquard

Plain: The machines which produce only plain collar & cuff are called plain flat knitting machine. Four feeder cams are used at a time.

Semi jacquard:The machine which has a greater flexibility collar & cuff called semi-jacquard machine.

Jacquard:- The machine which can produce any type of design for collars and cuff is called jacquard flat knitting machine. Each individual’s needle can be controlled in the machine

Equipment used: The following equipment is used for production: Name STOLL

Fabric type semijacquard

Manu.

Model

Gauge

Length

No. of m/c.

Germany

--------

84 inch

MATSUYA Plain Japan M-100 14 100 cm MATSUYA Plain Japan M-70 14 70 cm KAUO HENG Semi-jacquard Taiwan KH-313 14 54 inch

26 22 17

MATSUYA

Semijacquard

Japan

64 inch

Total machines = 69 Note: Collar & cuff prepared is mainly rib fabric. Tipping is also used in the collar & cuff. ‘Tipping’ is stripe design mainly knitted by Polyester yarn.

Flat bed knitting machines

Type of collar/cuff: Beximco knitting Ltd is able to produce high quality collar/cuff with greater flexibility to produce a wide range of design.

The main products are:a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h)

Plain collar/cuff. Welted collar/cuff. Herring bone collar/cuff. Hill collar/cuff Raising collar/cuff Picot collar/cuff. Tipping cuff cup to (color). Racking design.

Collars

Knitting Faults:       

Barre or stripe Miss stitch/ drop stitch Sinker mark Crease mark/Edge mark Excessive slubs Broken needle Tight course

      

Press off Needle mark Oil stain Holes Spirility Pin hole Missing Yarn, etc.

Greige Inspection Set fabric roll in machine Run the machine Check the faults Record the faults Accept/Reject

Send for next process

To detect and identify the fault in fabric by the knitting, visual assessment on Inspection m/c. Machine used:

(Front side) • •

(Back side)

Inspection m/c (Calator Sweden, Model no: 1095622) Inspection table.

M/C set up Roller speed Light Length measuring unit

M/C set up (Inspection m/c): Parameter range 0-40 m/min Not applicable Not applicable

Set value 25-30 m/min Artificial day light Attached with m/c.

Following faults are detected: Faults: H= Hole DS= Drop stitch. NL = Needle line. TT = Thick & Thin yarn. SM = Sinker Mark.

OS= Oil stain WD=Wrong Design S = Stripe S = Slub WP=Wrong Ply, etc.

BN= Broken needle PH= Pin Hole TC= Tight Course MY= Missing Yarn

FOUR – POINT SYSTEM: Size of defect 3 inches or less over 3 but not over 6 Over 6 but nor over 9 Over 9 inches

Acceptance calculation:

Penalty 1 points 2 points 3 points 4 points

Total point per 100 square yards =

Actual points counted 36 × ×100 Actual Roll length Actual width

= Points/100 square yards.

Classification of Inspection Fabric: < 40 points

41-60 points = B 61-80 points = C 80 above

= Reject.

Acceptance: Generally any piece of fabric with 40 points or less faults per 100sq. yard is allowed to pass however for a roll, the average value should not exceed 18point per 100sq.yard.More than 40points faults per 100sq yard is recorded as “REJECT”

Collar & cuff inspection: Collar & cuff inspection is a process of identifying quality fault in knitted collar & cuff from flat knit m/c.

Batch Preparation Batch preparation is the process where visually inspected grey fabrics are divided into different batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them suitable for further operation.

Inspection & Batch Preparation lay out :

H/ w

Causti c tank

Compressor

Officer

Chill er

H/ w

Singing machine

Mercerizing machine

Washin g Machin e

Sub Station

W S N E

Greige Inspection & Planning Office

Wash room

Turning m/c

Mosque

Maintena nce area Plaiting m/c 01 Inspection m/c 01 Plaiting m/c 02

Raw materials: â&#x20AC;˘

Collar & cuff.

Raising m/c

Inspection m/c 02

•

Body

M/c for Batch preparation: Two types of machines are used for Batch preparation • • •

Turning m/c ( Jusa, Portugal) Plaiting m/c ( Bangladesh) Sewing machine

Turning machine

Plaiting machine

Function or Purpose of Batch Section: -

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria – • Order sheet (Received from buyer) • Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) • M/C capacity • M/C available • Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) • Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Loading Capacity:In dyeing machine, 125-140 kgs of fabric can be one nozzle through dyeing machine. Normally, for the fabric with high G.S.M and large width, maximum load can be done. Considering the fabric quality, the recommended loading capacity of each machine is shown in following table. Machine No. 1 2 3 4

Minimum Capacity (in kgs) 450 450 450 450

Maximum Capacity (in kgs) 600 600 600 600

Usually Loaded 550 550 550 550

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

35 175 450 450 190 350 50 10 5 120 200 350 350 8 7

75 275 600 600 340 480 70 20 10 150 250 450 450 15 15

45 200 550 550 300 450 60 15 7 130 200 380 380 17 10

NOZZLE:Each batch is divided into 1-4 stacks, which are termed as nozzle, generally each nozzle weight 125-140 kgs

Rolls: Each nozzle is further divided into 1 to 5, which are termed as rolls. Usually each roll weight about 22-27 kgs.

Batch calculation: Batch quantity =

Count quantity Ă&#x2014; Machine capacity kg Total Quantity

Process sequence of Batch preparation:Receive batch card from Grey In-charge Card for own understanding Check the Make the priority as per dyeing plan Take one specific Batch card. Read the Batch availability of fabric Take required quantity of body fabric from ware-house. Make required no. of Rope maintaining equal length. Take collar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight. Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally unsure equal length

Stitch the fabric Write down the weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch Card. Write the total weight in Batch card Put signature & date. Fill up the production report form.

Lab Laboratory work sequence flow chart: Order received Dye selection Lab dip making Lab dip submit Lab dips approval/reject Pre production making

Equipment used: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Ahiba Nuance Top speed. Ahiba Spectra dye AG Machine Automatic electrical pipette Verivide Light box.

Light sources:  Artificial day light D65  TL 84  F(Filament)  UV (Ultra violet) light etc. Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England.

Ahiba Nuance Top speed

Dyeing m/c (China)

Verivide Light box

Stand

Automatic electrical pipette

Ahiba Spectra dye

Lab

Pilot plant

Q.C side

Offline

On line

Pilot plant:Laboratory matching is a color development processes of a given shade of the specified material by formulating a recipe from selected dyes, though the aid of color computer recipe. Combinations using the appropriate dyeing process with available sample dyeing machine until the closed matched are achieved.

Dyeing process: Fabrics are dyed based of their quality and blending and to the buyers standard sample appearance. The dyeing processes used in BKL are:-

Reactive dyeing: Cotton part eyeing at temperature range of (60-90) oC in alkali medium (in accordance to existing dyes)

Disperse dyeing: Polyester part is dyeing in acid medium at 132 oC temperature. There are different processes for blended fabrics such as pc or CVC.

â&#x20AC;˘ Two bath process:-

This is a process where at first the polyester part is dyed, matched and reduction clearing (if needed) is done, and then proceeds to cotton part dyeing using different bath.

â&#x20AC;˘ One bath process:Putting disperses and reactive dyes together and other chemical in one bath but dyeing the polyester part first proceed with cotton dyeing. In this process selected dyes which are compatible with each other are used. Disperse & Reactive are suitable for the process.

Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used: Chemicals are main ingredients used with dyes and auxiliaries means the aids or helper to get better results like levelness, absorption, crease free and other quality parameters, but water is the important ingredient need in all dyeing.

Chemicals used in lab are given bellow: 1. Jinsofter ACN (Anti creasing agent) 2. Jintex QSE (Sequestering agent) 3. Soda ash (Dye fixer) 4. Glauber salt (Electrolyte)

Chemical chart For Reactive Dyeing: SOAZOL/REACTOBOND: Dyes %

0.260.75 20

0.76-1.5

1.6-2.5

2.6-3.5

3.6-5.0

L5.0

Salt g/L

up to 0.25% 10

Soda g/L

7.5

Caustic g/L

0.3

0.7

LEVAFIX/ SYNOZOL: Dyes %

0.26-0.5

0.51-1.0

1.1-2.0

2.1-3.0

3.1-4.0

4.6-60

Salt g/L

up to 0.25% 10

Soda g/L

7.5

Caustic

g/L

SOLACION/ PROCION (HOT BRAND):

Dyes %

0.26-1.0

1.1-2.0

2.1-3.0

3.1-3.5

3.6-5.0

L5.0

Salt g/L

up to 0.25% 20

Soda g/L

7.5

Caustic

g/L

Lab dips making process follow up: 100% cotton single tuck back pique (STBPQ) of 235 gsm. In lab and production floor 1:8 liquor ratio is taken. For lab 10 gm fabric sample is taken. The sample color was orange. The sample was matched with previous record and got the recipe.

Color recipe: 1% sola orange 1% sola yellow 0.1% sola blue Total

10.20 ml 8.00 ml 1.30 ml 19.5 ml

Chemicals used: Jinsofter ACN (Anti creasing agent) Jintex QSE (Sequestering agent) Total

4 cc 6 cc 10 cc

Shade% calculation & get salt, soda, caustic amount from above charts: Color × Stock %

Shade% = Fabric weight Sola orange Sola yellow Sola blue Total

1.02 0.80 0.013 1.833

From chart we get 40 g/l salt and 10 g/l soda

Salt & Soda calculation: Amount of salt =

40 ×80 = 3.2 gm 1000

Amount of soda =

10 ×80 = 8 cc 100

Here, 80 is the total amount of water. And soda ash is taken from 10% stock solution.

Required amount of water = {80 - (Total color + Chemicals + Alkali)} = {80 – (19.5 + 10 + 8)} = 42.5 m

Procedure: • • • • • •

First stainless steel tube is taken in tube holder. Then colors are taken by measuring with electronic pipette in tube. Salt is taken measuring with electronic balance. Required amount of water is taken in the tube. Fabric sample is taken in the tube. Tube is set inside the Ahiba nuance machine and kept for 30 minutes at 600c. It is called salt program. After salt program soda ash is added to the tube. Then the tube is kept for 1 hour at 600c temperature. Then the tube is poured off and fabric is washed. After cold wash the sample is washed at 1000c called hot wash. It is continued until bleeding is stopped. Then fabric is washed with cold water and dried. Then shade is checked in verivide light box at required light source.

• • • • • •

Laboratory dyeing procedure: Reactive dyeing for cotton part Diagram: For Reactive dyeing (Cold brand) 60oc 30’

60 min

B 2 min

Unload & wash

A A= 1) Fabric 2) Dye 3) Chemical 4) Salt B= Soda ash Procedure: • • • • • •

Add required amount of dyes, Chemical, water and salt in the dyeing beaker Add the fabric in the dyeing beaker. Place the dyeing pot into the dyeing machine at room temperature & circulate the dyeing beaker. Raise the temp of the dyeing machine at 60oc and run the machine for 30 min Then add soda ash in the dyeing pot and run the machine for 60 min. Unload & wash.

Diagram: for Reactive dyeing (Hot brand).

82oc

40min

60oc 2 min

Unload & Wash B

A A= 1) Fabric

B= Soda ash

2) Dye 3) Chemical 4) Salt

Procedure: 1) 2) 3) 4)

Add required amount of dyes, chemical, water & salt in the dyeing beakers. Add fabric to the dyeing beaker. Place the dyeing beaker into the dyeing machine at room temperature. Circulate the dyeing beaker in the dyeing machine and raise temp at 60oc and run the machine for 30 min. 5) Then add soda ash in the dyeing beaker raise the temp at 82oc and run the machine for 40 min 6) Decrease the temp & unload.

For Disperse Dyeing: Chemical and auxiliaries in disperse dyeing in all brands are similar and dyeing temperature mostly is 132oc 1) Dispersing agent – PALAGAL SFD – 0.5g/L JINLEV RLF 349 – 0.3 g/L 2) PH adjusted – Eulysin – 0.23 gm/L (Buffer solution) 3) PH required and to be maintained = 4.5 – 5.0 For medium & dark shades reduction clearing is required after dyeing Sl. No 01 02 03 04

Chemicals Detergent Caustic soda sodium hydrose Acetic Acid (For neutralization)

Medium shade 0.5 g/L 1.0 g/L 2.0 g/L 0.5 g/L

Dark shad 0.5 g/L 2.0 g/L 4.0 g/L 0.5 g/L

Diagram for Disperse dyeing: 130oc

30min

50oc 5min Unload & wash Dyes +water + Auxiliaries

Procedure: • • • • • •

Add required amount of dyes, water Auxiliaries and water in the dyeing beakers Add the fabric in the dyeing beakers & check the PH Place the dyeing beaker into the dyeing machine at room temperature Circulate the dyeing beaker into the dyeing machine and raise the temperature of the machine at 130oc and run the machine for 30 min Then Decrease the temperature at 60oc Then unload, reduction clearing,& wash

One bath dyeing process of polyester & cotton blend: 1) Add required amount of dyes (reactive + Disperse) auxiliaries (Reactive + Disperse), salt and water in the dyeing beaker. 2) Add fabric to the dyeing beaker 3) Place the dyeing beaker in the dyeing machine at room temp and run the machine for 5 min 4) Circulate the dyeing vessel and raise the temp at 130oc and run the machine for 30 min 5) Decrease the temp at 82oc and run the machine for 10 min 6) Add soda ash to the dyeing beaker and run the machine for 40 min 7) Decrease the temp at 60oc then unload and wash. 130oc

30 min 10 min

40 min

82oc o

50 c B A A = 1) Dyes (Reactive+Disperse) 2) Auxiliaries (Reactive+Disperse) 3) Salt B = Soda ash

Dyestuff strength test:

Unload & wash

This test result is identified by comparing the visual appearances of two dyed samples are dyed with different dyestuffs at same condition. For this test two different fabric samples are taken from same fabric which is ready for dye. Then two samples are dyed with different dyestuffs which to be tested with same auxiliaries and chemicals at same time, temperature and other conditions. After dyeing and drying both sample are compared with each other visually. According to their depth of shade and appearance decision is taken which dyestuff is more economic.

Salt test: Equipments used 1. Distilled water (as required) 2. Salt 500 gm 3. Pot 4. Stirrer 5. Filter paper 6. Electronic balance 7. Dryer

Procedure: • • • • • • •

First 500 gm salt is taken in a pot. Then it is fully melted in required amount of distilled water with a stirrer. Then filter paper is weighted and the weight is recorded. Then the salt solution is filtered by the filter paper. All the dust particles are gathered at the surface of the filter paper. Then the dust containing paper is dried. After drying weight of the dust containing filter paper is measured with the electronic balance. Then the weight of the dust is calculated subtracting the previous measured filter paper value from the present value. Then percentage of dust is calculated in the salt.

Soda, Caustic, Acid and Peroxide testing equipments (common) are given bellow: • Pipette • Conical flask • Burette • Volumetric flask • Beaker

Soda/Caustic test: Chemicals used: • • • •

Distilled water Sulphuric acid = 4.9gm Soda ash = 5.3 gm Methyl orange = 1 drop

Procedure: • • •

First stock solution is made taking 50 cc distilled water and 4.9 gm sulphuric acid. Stock solution is made taking 50 cc distilled water and 5.3 gm soda ash. Then a conical flask is taken and 10 cc distilled water, 10 cc stock solution of soda ash and 1 drop methyl orange is taken in the conical flask and stirred.

• • • • • • •

The solution appearance is yellow color. Sulphuric acid stock solution is poured in a burette at the amount of 100cc. Then the conical flask is set under the burette and sulphuric acid is taken drop by drop in the flask and stirred. The color of the solution of the flask is observed very carefully. After falling a certain amount of acid in the flask the color of the solution is changed from yellow to pink. Then the burette valve is turned off. Certainly color changing indicates the neutralization point. The amount of sulphuric acid gone to the flask is calculated from the burette.

Result: If the amount of lost sulphuric acid from burette is more than 10 cc, then the soda is rejected. Otherwise it is accepted for use.

Acetic acid test Chemicals used: • • • •

Distilled water Acetic acid = 6% Caustic soda = 4% Methyl orange = 1 drop

Procedure: • • • • • • • • • •

First 10 cc distilled water is taken in the conical flask. Then 10cc acetic acid is taken from the 6% stock solution in the flask. And 1 drop methyl orange is taken in the conical flask and stirred. The solution appearance is pink color. Caustic soda stock solution is poured in a burette at the amount of 100cc. Then the conical flask is set under the burette and Caustic soda is taken drop by drop in the flask and stirred. The color of the solution of the flask is observed very carefully. After falling a certain amount of caustic in the flask the color of the solution is changed from pink to yellow. Then the burette valve is turned off. Certainly color changing indicates the neutralization point. The amount of caustic soda is gone to the flask is calculated from the burette.

Result: If the amount of lost caustic soda from burette is more than 10 cc, then the acid is rejected. Otherwise it is accepted for use.

Peroxide test Chemicals used: • • • •

Distilled water Potassium permanganates (KMnO4)= 3.16 gm Sulphuric acid (H2SO4) = 2.94 gm Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) = 1.7 gm

Procedure:

• • • • • • • • • • •

First stock solution is made taking 50 cc distilled water and 3.16 gm potassium permanganates (KMnO4). Stock solution is made taking 50 cc distilled water and 2.94 sulphuric acids (H2SO4). Stock solution is made taking 50 cc distilled water and 1.7 gm hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Then a conical flask is taken and 10 cc distilled water, 10 cc stock solution of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and 10cc sulphuric acid (H2SO4) is taken in the conical flask. The solution appearance is pink color. Potassium permanganates stock solution is poured in a burette at the amount of 100cc. Then the conical flask is set under the burette and potassium permanganates is taken drop by drop in the flask and stirred. The color of the solution of the flask is observed very carefully. After falling a certain amount of potassium permanganates in the flask the color of the solution is changed from pink to yellow. Then the burette valve is turned off. Certainly color changing indicates the neutralization point. The amount of potassium permanganates gone to the flask is calculated from the burette.

Result: If the amount of lost potassium permanganates from burette is more than 10 cc, then the peroxide is rejected. Otherwise it is accepted for use.

Fiber Identification: Fiber

Burning or Melting Burns only

Shrinkage from flame No

Wool

Same as cotton Burn only

Same as cotton Yes

Nylon

Burn &melt

Yes

Polyester

Burn &melt

Yes

Acrylic

Burn &melt

Yes

Acetate

Burn &melt

Yes

Jute

Same as cotton

Cotton

Viscose

Odor

Residue

Burning paper, leaves or wood Same as cotton Strong odor like hair burn Celery

Fine, grey ash

Sweet chemical Broiled fish Burning paper & vinegar Same as cotton

Carbonizing test:

Same as cotton Black Hard, Crimp color bead Hard, Crimp color bead Hard shaped bead Dark, hard, solid bead Same as cotton

Blend type

Solution use

Unchanged

70% Sulphuric acid

Carbonized Fiber Cotton

PC/CVC Viscose

30% Sulphonic acid

Viscose

Cotton

Lycra cotton

50% Sulphuric

Cotton

Lycra

Polyester

acid

Dye House Layout of the dye house: HD m/c

Office

M/C:

M/C: 06

Dewate r m/c

1st Floor c store

2nd Floor Chemical Mixing Tank HD m/c

M/C: 07

Finishing area

M/C:

M/C: 08

Padding m/c

M/C:

M/C: 18 M/C:

M/C:

R&D

M/C:

M/C: M/C:

Office

M/C: 14 M/C:

CON room

M/C: 05

M/C: 10

M/C: 15 Supervisor Manager room

M/C: 16

M/C: 17

Store of Batch

Dryer

LAB

W S N E

Machine specification: Dyeing Machineries: Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8 Jet Dyeing Machine (Eco-soft) Theis, Germany 4 500-600 kg 550 kg 500-600 m.bar 200-250 m/min HTHP

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

5 Jet Dyeing Machine (Mini-soft) Theis, Germany 1 30-80 kg 50 kg 500-600 m.bar 150-200 m/min HTHP

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

6 Jet Dyeing Machine (Eco-soft) Theis, Germany 2 200-250 kg 200 kg 500-600 m.bar 200-250 m/min HTHP

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

9 Jet Dyeing Machine (Luft-roto) Theis, Germany 2 250-350 kg 300 kg 500-600 m.bar 200-250 m/min HTHP

Machine No

Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

Jet Dyeing Machine (Luft-soft) Theis, Germany 3 400-500 kg 400 kg 500-600 m.bar 200-250 m/min HTHP

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

11 Sample Dyeing Machine Beximco, Bangladesh 70 kg 60 kg 200-300 m.bar 100-150 m/min Atmospheric

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Rope speed :

12 Sample Dyeing Machine Beximco, Bangladesh 10-20 kg 15 kg 100-150 m/min

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Rope speed :

13 Local Beximco, Bangladesh 5-10 kg 7 kg 100-150 m/min

Machine No : Machine Name : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed :

14 Jet Dyeing Machine Theis, Germany 1 120-150 kg 130 kg 300-500 m.bar 150-200 m/min

Machine No : Company Name : No. of Nozzle : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Pressure : Rope speed : Type of Machine :

15 Theis, Germany 1 250-250 kg 200 kg 300-500 m.bar 150-200 m/min Atmospheric

Machine No Company Name

: :

16, 17 Theis, GermanyNo. of Nozzle

350-450 kg

Machine No : Company Name : Machine Capacity : Economic loading capacity: Type of Machine :

18, 19 Local 8-15 kg 7 kg Atmospheric

Dyeing machine

Raw materials used: • • • •

Fabric Water Chemical Dyes

3Machine Capacity

â&#x20AC;˘

Steam

Production flow chart: Singing Mercerizing Scouring Bleaching Enzyme wash Dyeing Washing Rinse Hot wash Cold wash Unload

Pre-treatments Singeing: It is the process of burning of the fabric hairs projection through the fabric surface.

Mercerization: Mercerization is a process of treatment of cellulosic textile yarn or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibers swollen, the strength lusture and dye affinity of the materials increased, and their handle is modified.

Scouring: Boiling off process with detergent & alkali (Soda ash/Caustic soda). Greige fabrics contain fats, waxes& other impurities .the absorbency of the fabrics adversely effected due to the presence of these impurities. This leads to improper dyeing, printing & finishing in subsequent process.

Bleaching: Bleaching is a process for removing natural nitrogenous coloring matters e.g. dirt, dust, husk, broken seeds, protein, leaf etc from the fabric & make it white by oxidizing or chemical treatment.

Objects of scouring & Bleaching: 1 2 3

To remove fats, wax, impurities from the fabrics. To increase absorbency of fabric To remove natural coloring materials, dirt, dust, broken seed by oxidizing of chemical

4 5 6 7 8

treatment To obtain pure & permanent color. To whiten the fabric. It changes the textile materials which are hydrophobic in nature. It helps to produce an even shade during dyeing operation. To impart the wet ability of the fabric this is necessary for further treatment and domestic uses.

Materials & chemicals used for scouring & bleaching: Steam: To heat up the water. Compressed air: To operate the machine. Caustic soda: For controlling PH of the dye bath. Hydrogen peroxide: To bleach the fabric. Stabilizer: It is buffer solution and maintains PH at a stable point. Wetting agent: To wet the fabric for even dye application. Detergent: To wash the fabric. Sequestering agent: To remove the hardness of water. Acid: To maintain PH. Anti-creasing agent: For reducing crease mark at the fabric during washing, dyeing and other processes. Enzyme wash: It is the process of washing fabric with enzymes to remove hairiness of the fabric. Demineralization of water: Beximco use underground water for all wet processing activities. This water contains different types of minerals. Total dissolved solid (TDS)| • Arsenic (As) • Cadmium (Cd) • Lead (Pb) • Chloride (Cl) • Nitrate (NO3) • Nitric (NO2) • Cyanide (Cn) • Fe II Among these only Iron is removed by sand bath filtering process in water treatment plant. Other material remains at sustainable limit.

Composition of cotton materials: Particles Cellulose Facts &waxes Mineral substances Pectin’s Protiens Various organic compound

Percentage 88 - 96 0.45 - 1.0 0.7 - 1.0 0.7 - 1.2 1.1 - 1.9 0.5 - 1.0

Dyeing process: White Shade: Whitening is a chemical treatment process; this process is used white the fabric at a desired level by bleaching & OBA treatment. Batch weight: 400Kg Recipe Name: RN7121 WHITE calvin 2×2 Rib Chemical Name Acetic acid Phenolas CLN.20 Phenozyme 1000 Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Caustic Soda Hydrogen per oxide Bluetone 2B Skywhite BVB SQA-6 Acetic acid

g/l 0.700000 1.507500 0.500000% 1.004900 1.000000 1.500000 0.400000 2.500000 2.010000 0.40700% 0.08050% 000000 0.525656

Kg 2.240000 4.824000 2.000000 3.21568 3.200000 4.800000 1.280000 8.000000 6.432000 2.198000 434.700g 2.500000 1.620992

Process steps and procedure: • Fabric is loaded in the machine. • 3200 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8. • Temperature is raised at 550c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. • Acetic acid is added for maintaining pH at 4.5 for enzyme wash. • Fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. • Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 • • • • • • • • • • • •

minutes at 550c. Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash is done. Take water at required level. The temp at 500c & continue circulating the fabric. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer. Circulate the fabric for 3-5 min at constant temperature. Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 20 minutes & raise the temp at 600c. Add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 40 minutes & run the m/c for 5 min at 700c. Raise the temp at 800c & add OBA & continue circulate the fabric for 5 min. Raise the temp at 1000c & continue circulate the fabric for 60 min and maintaining pH at 10.5. Decrease the temp at 600c. Drain. Add acetic acid at 60oc & run for 10 min

• Unload the fabric. •

Curve: For Enzyme Wash: 800c × 10 min 550c × 60 min A

hot wash

B pH Check

600c Cooling + Drain

Here, A= Water B= Acetic acid C= Enzyme Wash pH = 4.5 1000c × 30 min

For Bleaching: 800c × 5 min 0

70 c × 10 min 0

60 c × 10 min 0

50 c × 10min

E D

600c Cooling + Drain

C A

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrogen per Oxide E= Optical Brightening Agent. For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

Light Shade: Batch weight: 480 Kg Recipe name: RN7152 arena zara 2×2 TIV

Chemical Name Chimistone Nilf

g/l 1.000000

Kg 3.200000

Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Caustic Soda Hydrogen per oxide Sodium Thiosulphate Acetic acid Acetic acid (enzyme) Phenolas CLN.20 Phenozyme 1000 Glaubers Salt Phenolas Crease-10 Chimisperse FA Phenolas LVA Plus SQA-6 Levafix Yellow CA Levafix Red CA LevafixBlue CA LVA SQA6 Soda Ash Acetic acid Chimisperse RK Phenolas Crease-10

1.000000 1.000000 0.400000 1.800000 2.010000 1.020000 0.700000 0.262500 1.507500 0.500000% 10 1.000000 1.005000 1.500000 00000000 0.032000% 0.007600% 0.107000% 00000000 00000000 2.000000 0.420525 0.500000 0.500000

3.200000 3.200000 1.280000 5.750000 6.432000 3.264000 2.240000 840.0000g 4.824000 2.400000 38.400000 3.200000 3.859000 5.760000 4.000000 153.6000g 36.48000g 51.36000g 2.000000 2.000000 7.680000 1.615000 1.920000 1.920000

Process steps and procedure: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fabric is loaded in the machine. 3840 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8. Temperature is raised at 600c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer. Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 10 minutes. After 5 minutes add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 40 minutes at temperature 700c & run the m/c for 5 min. Raise temperature at 1000c. Maintaining pH at 10.6 Fabric is circulated for 30 minutes at 1000c. Add Sodium thiosulphate (peroxide killer) dosing for 10 minutes & run for 10 minutes. Decrease temperature at 600c and then drain. Take water and add acetic acid and raise temperature at 600c and run for 10 minutes then drain. Again take water and add acetic acid to maintain pH 4.5 Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 minutes. Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash is done. Take water at required level.

• • • • • • • • • •

Raise the temp at 600c & circulate the fabric. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, fixing agent & leveling agent. Maintaining pH at 6.6 Circulate the fabric for 3-5 min at constant temp. Then color is added by linear dosing for 20 minutes and run for 10 minutes. Then glauber salt is added by linear dosing for 10 minutes and run for 20 minutes. Then soda is added by curve dosing for 30 minutes then run for 30 minutes. Then shade check. Drain. Take water at required level the take acetic acid and run for 10 minutes and drain. It is called neutralization. Then drain. • Take water at required level and add soaping agent, anti creasing agent. Then raise temperature at 850c and run for 10 minutes. Decrease the temperature at 600c and then drain and rinse the fabric. • Unload the fabric.

Curve: For Bleaching: 1000c × 30 min 700c × 10 min

60 c × 10 min 500c × 10min

600c Cooling + Drain

D C

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrogen per Oxide E= Sodium thiosulphate (Killer) For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Enzyme Wash: 800c × 10 min 600c × 60 min A Here, A= Water B= Acetic acid C= Enzyme Wash pH = 4.5

B pH Check

hot wash C

600c Cooling + Drain

For Dying: 600c A

10 min run B pH Check C

20 min run D

30 min run E

Shade Check

Drain

Here, A= Water B= Chemical C= Color Dosing (20 min) D= Salt Dosing (10 min) E= Soda Ash Dosing (30 min) pH = 6.6 For Sopping: 500c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain 850c × 10 min

500c × 10 min Water Sopping Chemical 450c Water

Drain

10 min Rinse

Complete Sample

Drain

Medium Shade: Batch weight: 470kg Recipe name: RN7157, CAMEL 751 Slub Single jersey, zara. Chemical Name Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Caustic Soda Hydrogen per oxide Sodium Thiosulphate Acetic acid Acetic acid (enzyme)

g/l 1.000000 1.000000 1.000000 0.400000 1.800000 2.010000 1.020000 0.700000 0.262500

Kg 3.760000 3.760000 3.760000 1.504000 6.768000 7.558000 3.835000 2.632000 987.0000g

Phenolas CLN.20 Phenozyme 300 Glaubers Salt Phenolas Crease-10 Chimisperse FA Phenolas LVA Plus SQA-6 Kiractive Yellow 3RS Kiractive Red 3BS Kemafix Blue × F2R LVA SQA6 Soda Ash Acetic acid Chimisperse RK Phenolas Crease-10 LVA Plus Phenolas FAX-33

1.000000 0.200000% 40 1.000000 1.005000 1.500000 0000000 1.10000% 0.30000% 0.433000% 00000000 00000000 10.000000 0.525656 0.500000 0.500000 0.500000 1.000000

3.760000 940.0000 150.4000 3.760000 3.799000 5.64000 4.000000 5.170000 1.410000 2.035000 2.000000 3.000000 37.60000 1.976000 1.880000 1.880000 1.880000 3.760000

Process steps and procedure: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fabric is loaded in the machine. 3760 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8. Temperature is raised at 600c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer. Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 10 minutes at temperature 600c. After 7 minutes add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 10 minutes at temperature 700c & run the m/c for 7 min. Raise temperature at 1000c. Maintaining pH at 10.6 Fabric is circulated for 30 minutes at 1000c. Add Sodium thiosulphate (peroxide killer) dosing for 10 minutes & run for 10 minutes. Decrease temperature at 600c and then drain. Take water and add acetic acid and raise temperature at 600c and run for 10 minutes then drain. Again take water and add acetic acid to maintain pH 4.5 Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 minutes. Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash is done. Take water at required level Raise the temp at 600c & circulate the fabric. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, fixing agent & leveling agent. pH remain at 6.6 Circulate the fabric for 3-5 min at constant temp. Glauber salt is added. Then color is added by linear dosing for 25 minutes and run for 20 minutes. Then soda is added by curve dosing for 45inutes then run for 30 minutes. Then shade check at 600c.

• Drain. • Take water at required level the take acetic acid and run for 10 minutes and drain. It

is called neutralization. Then drain. • Take water at required level and add soaping agent, anti creasing agent. Then raise temperature at 850c and run for 10 minutes. Decrease the temperature at 600c and then drain and rinse the fabric. • Unload the fabric.

Curve: For Bleaching: 1000c × 30 min 70 c × 10 min 0

60 c × 10 min 500c × 10min

600c Cooling + Drain

D C

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrogen per Oxide E= Sodium thiosulphate (Killer)

For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Dying: 600c A

20 min run B

pH Check

Here, A= Water B= Chemicals C= Salt D= Color Dosing (25 min) E= Soda Ash Dosing (45 min) pH = 6.6

For Sopping: 500c × 10 min

30 min run E

Shade Check

Drain

Water Acetic acid

Drain 850c × 10 min

500c × 10 min Water Sopping Chemical 450c Water

Drain

10 min Rinse

Complete Sample

Drain

Dark Shade: Batch weight: 360 Kg Recipe name: RN7161, PMS Single jersey, US Polo. Chemical Name Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Caustic Soda Hydrogen per oxide Sodium Thiosulphate Acetic acid Acetic acid (enzyme) Phenolas CLN.20 Phenozyme 1000 Glaubers Salt SQA6 Phenolas Crease-10 Phenolas LVA Plus Chimis SQA Reactive Turquiose Blue G Solazol Blue SPBB Reactive BR. Blue R-SP LVA SQA6 Soda Ash Acetic acid Chimisperse RK Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical LVA Phenolas FAX-33

g/l 1.000000 1.000000 1.000000 0.400000 1.800000 2.010000 1.020000 0.700000 0.262500 1.507500 0.500000% 60 00000000 1.000000 1.500000 1.005000 5.20000% 0.20000% 0.100000% 0000000 0000000 10.00000 0.525656 0.750000 0.500000 0.500000 1.000000

Kg 2.880000 2.880000 2.880000 1.152000 5.184000 5.789000 2.938000 2.016000 756.0000g 4.342000 1.800000 172.8000 6.000000 2.880000 4.320000 2.894000 18.720000 720.0000g 360.0000g 3.000000 4.000000 28.80000 1.514000 2.160000 1.440000 1.440000 2.88000

Process steps and procedure: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fabric is loaded in the machine. 3760 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8. Temperature is raised at 600c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer. Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 10 minutes. After 5 minutes add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 40 minutes at temperature 700c & run the m/c for 5 min. Raise temperature at 1000c. Maintaining pH at 10.6 Fabric is circulated for 30 minutes at 1000c. Add Sodium thiosulphate (peroxide killer) dosing for 10 minutes & run for 10 minutes. Decrease temperature at 600c and then drain. Take water and add acetic acid and raise temperature at 600c and run for 10 minutes then drain. Again take water and add acetic acid to maintain pH 4.5 Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 minutes. Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash is done. Take water at required level Raise the temp at 600c & circulate the fabric. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, fixing agent & leveling agent. Maintaining pH at 6.6 Circulate the fabric for 3-5 min at constant temp. Glauber salt is added. Then color is added by linear dosing for 25 minutes and run for 20 minutes. Then soda is added by curve dosing for 45inutes then run for 30 minutes. Then shade check at 600c. Drain. Take water at required level the take acetic acid and run for 10 minutes and drain. It is called neutralization. Then drain. Take water at required level and add soaping agent, anti creasing agent. Then raise temperature at 850c and run for 10 minutes. Decrease the temperature at 600c and then drain and rinse the fabric. Unload the fabric.

Curve: For Bleaching: 1000c × 30 min 700c × 10 min

60 c × 10 min 500c × 10min

D C

600c Cooling + Drain

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrogen per Oxide E= Sodium thiosulphate (Killer)

For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Enzyme Wash: 800c × 10 min 600c × 60 min

hot wash

B pH Check

600c Cooling + Drain

Here, A= Water B= Acetic acid C= Enzyme Wash pH = 4.5 For Dying: 600c A

20 min run B

pH Check

30 min run E

Shade Check

Here, A= Water B= Chemical C= Salt D= Color Dosing (25 min) E= Soda Ash Dosing (45 min) pH = 6.6

For Sopping: 500c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain 850c × 10 min

500c × 10 min Water Sopping Chemical

Drain

450c Water

10 min Rinse

Complete Sample

Drain

Bleaching One Bath: Batch weight: 400 Kg Chemical Name Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Caustic Soda Hydrogen per oxide Sodium Thiosulphate Acetic acid Acetic acid (enzyme) Phenolas CLN.20 Phenozyme 1000

g/l 1.000000 1.000000 1.000000 0.400000 1.800000 2.010000 1.020000 0.700000 0.262500 1.507500 0.500000%

Kg 3.200000 3.200000 3.200000 1.280000 5.750000 6.432000 3.264000 2.240000 840.0000g 4.824000 2.000000

Procedure and steps: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fabric is loaded in the machine. 3200 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8. Temperature is raised at 600c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer. Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 10 minutes. After 5 minutes add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 40 minutes at temperature 700c & run the m/c for 5 min. Raise temperature at 1000c. Maintaining pH at 10.6 Fabric is circulated for 30 minutes at 1000c. Add Sodium thiosulphate (peroxide killer) dosing for 10 minutes & run for 10 minutes. Decrease temperature at 600c and then drain. Take water and add acetic acid and raise temperature at 600c and run for 10 minutes then drain. Again take water and add acetic acid to maintain pH 4.5 Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 minutes. Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash is done. Fabric is unloaded.

Curve: For Bleaching: 1000c × 30 min

700c × 10 min

60 c × 10 min 500c × 10min

600c Cooling + Drain

D C

A B Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrogen per Oxide E= Sodium thiosulphate (Killer) For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Enzyme Wash: 800c × 10 min 600c × 60 min A

hot wash

B pH Check

600c Cooling + Drain

Here, A= Water B= Acetic acid C= Enzyme Wash pH = 4.5

Topping Process: Batch weight: 125kg Chemical Name Glaubers Salt Phenolas Crease-10 Phenolas LVA plus Chimisperse FA Solazol Yellow 3RS Solazol Blue SPBB Reactive Yellow 4GL LVA plus Soda Ash Acetic acid Chimisperse RK Phenolas Crease-10

g/l 40 1.000000 1.500000 1.005000 0.092000% 1.180000% 1.520000% 500.0000 10 0.788484 0.5000000 0.500000

Kg 25.0000 1.000000 1.500000 1.005000 25.0000g 1.239000 80.00000g 00000000 7.000000 788.484g 500.0000g 500.000g

Chemical 540 Phenolas FAX-33

0.500000 1.000000

500.000g 1.000000

Process and steps: • Fabric is loaded in the machine. • Take required amount of water (1000 kg). And circulate the fabric at 500c • • • • • • • • • •

temperature for 10 minutes Add anti creasing agent, leveling agent, fixing agent to the bath and run for 10 minutes at 500c temperature. pH remains 6.6 Add color to the dye bath by linear dosing for 20 minutes and then run for 10 minutes. Add salt by linear dosing for 10 minutes and run for 16 minutes. Then add soda ash by curve dosing for 30 minutes and raise temperature at 600c and run for 30 minutes. Then shade was checked and run for more 30 minutes. pH maintained 11. Again shade check. Rinse wash. Drain. Take water at required level the take acetic acid and run for 10 minutes and drain. It is called neutralization. Then drain. Take water at required level and add soaping agent, anti creasing agent. Then raise temperature at 850c and run for 10 minutes. Decrease the temperature at 600c and then drain and rinse the fabric. Unload the fabric.

Curve: For Dying: 600c × 30 min 500c 10 min A

10 min

4 min

pH Check

16 min

Drain

Here, A= Fabric + Water B= Chemical C= Color Dosing (20 min) D= Salt Dosing (10 min) E= Soda Ash Dosing (30 min) pH = 6.6

Stripping: Batch weight: 570kg Chemical Name Acetic acid

g/l ------

Kg 5.000000

Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Caustic Soda Hydrosulphite Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Chimistab FG Soda Ash Hydrogen per oxide Acetic acid Catalase BF

-----1.000000 2.000000 2.000000 7.000000 0.669933 1.000000 1.000000 0.400000 3.000000 2.010000 0.787500 0.150000

4.000000 4.560000 2.120000 15.00000 40.00000 3.055000 4.560000 4.560000 1.824000 13.68000 9.166000 3.591000 684.0000g

Process and steps: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fabric is loaded in the machine. 3700 liter water was added. Then add acetic acid at 600c temperature and run for 10 minutes and drained. Add water again and also add detergent, anti creasing agent, sequestering agent and run for 10 minutes at 500c temperature. Raise the temperature at 600c and add caustic soda and run for 10 minutes. Raise the temperature at 900c and Hydro sulphite was added and run for 30 minutes. Then temperature was raised at 1350c for 30 minutes. Then temperature at 600c. Shade is checked and then drained. Again 4000 liter water was taken. Detergent, anti creasing agent, sequestering agent, and stabilizer was added and run for 10 minutes at 500c temperature. Raise temperature at 600c and add soda ash by linear dosing and run for 10 minutes. Then bleaching agent hydrogen peroxide was added and run for 45 minutes. Then temperature is raised up to 950c and run for 30 minutes. Then temperature is decreased at 600c and drained. Water was taken again and acetic acid was taken and run for 10 minutes at 500c temperature. Then a Catalase BF is added and run for 10 minutes Temperature was raised at 600c. After running 10 minutes bath was drained. Fabric was unloaded.

Curve: For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

For Stripping:

Drain

1350c × 30 min 900c × 30 min D 600c × 10 min

600c Cooling + Drain

50 c × 10min C A

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda D= Hydrosulphite For Bleaching: 950c × 30 min 600c ×45 min B C

600c Cooling + Drain

A Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Soda ash (Dosing 10 min) C= Hydrogen peroxide

For stripping wash: 600c × 10 min 500c × 10 min Water

Acetic acid

Catalase BF

Drain

Process Flow Chart of P/C Blend Fabric (65/35): Batch weight: 565 kg Recipe name: RN 1324-18 Navy CH, TC, Back Pique Required amount of water: 4520 liter Chemical Name Chimistone Nilf Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Caustic soda Acetic acid

g/l 1.000000 1.000000 1.000000 2.200000 1.051300

Kg 4.520000 4.520000 4.520000 9.944000 4.751424

Geilev-YDL Phenolas Crease-10 Chimisperse FA Phenolas P-96 Eulysin Dianix navy CCR Dianix Black CCR Boron Red W4BS Acetic acid Caustic soda Hydrose Chimisperse RK Glauber salt Phenolas Crease-10 Phenolas LVA plus Chimistab FA Solazol yellow K-HW Solazol red K-HW Reactive black B Soda ash Caustic Acetic acid Chimisperse RK Phenolas Crease-10 Chemical 540 Phenolas fax-33

1.008990 1.000000 0.670000 0.504900 0.230000 0.23000% 0.55000% 0.01430% 1.051300 2.002000 3.090000 0.500000 60.00000 1.000000 1.500000 1.005000 0.290000% 0.400000% 2.300000% 5.000000 0.700000 0.788000 0.750000 0.500000 0.500000 1.000000

4.560634 4.520000 3.028400 2.282148 1.039600 1.299500 3.107500 0.080795 4.751876 9.049040 13.96680 2.260000 271.2000 4.520000 6.780000 4.542600 1.638500 2.260000 12.99500 22.60000 3.164000 3.561760 3.390000 2.260000 2.260000 4.520000

Sequence of polyester part and cotton part dyeing: • Water is taken in the dye bath. And then fabric is loaded in the machine. • Wetting agent, anti creasing agent, sequestering agent are added to the dye bath. And circulate the fabric for 5 minutes. • Then caustic soda is added at 600c and raises the temperature at 1000c and circulates the fabric for about 30 minutes. • Then the bath is drained with rinsing wash. • Then acetic acid is added and temperature raised at 60 0c and run for 10 minutes for neutralization. Then drain the bath. • Water is taken in the dye bath at the required level. • Dispersing agent, anti creasing agent, fixing agent, leveling agent, and buffer solutions are added to the dye bath and circulate the fabric for 5 minutes at 600c. • Then acetic acid is added to the dye bath. After running 5 minutes pH is checked of the dye bath. pH is maintained at 4.5. • Then polyester dyes are added to the dye bath at linear dosing and fabric is circulated for 10 minutes at 600c temperature. • Then temperature is raised at 1300c and fabric is circulated for 45 minutes. • Then temperature is decreased at 600c. Then shade is checked. • Then bath is drained off.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Then again required amount of water caustic soda and hydrose are added to the dye bath. And circulate the fabric for 10 minutes raising temperature at 80 0c. Then drained. It is called reduction cleaning. Then the bath is drained again. Take water at required level. Raise the temp at 600c & circulate the fabric. Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, fixing agent & leveling agent. pH remain at 6.6 Circulate the fabric for 3-5 min at constant temp. Glauber salt is added. Then color is added by linear dosing for 25 minutes and run for 20 minutes. Then soda ash & caustic are added by curve dosing for 45inutes. pH remains 11 and run for 30 minutes. Then shade check at 600c. Bath is drained. Take water at required level the take acetic acid and run for 10 minutes and drain. It is called neutralization. Then drain. Take water at required level and add soaping agent, anti creasing agent, sequestering agent, fixing agent. Then raise temperature at 850c and run for 10 minutes. Decrease the temperature at 600c and then drain and rinse the fabric. Unload the fabric.

Curve: Polyester part For Bleaching: 1000c × 30 min 600c × 10 min 500c × 10min

600c Cooling + Drain C

Here, A= Water + Fabric B= Chemical C= Caustic Soda For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Dyeing: 1300c × 45 min

600c A

600c Cooling + Drain

10 min run B

pH Check

Here, A= Water B= Chemical C= Acetic acid D= Color Dosing (25 min) pH = 4.5 Reduction cleaning: 80°C × 10 min 600c × 10 min A

600c Cooling + Drain

Here A= Water B= Caustic soda C= Hydrose

Cotton part dyeing For Dying: 600c A

20 min run B

pH Check C

30 min run pH Check

Shade Check

Here, A= Water B= Chemical C= Salt D= Color Dosing (25 min) E= Soda Ash & caustic soda Dosing (45 min) pH = 11

For acid Wash: 600c × 10 min Water Acetic acid

Drain

For Sopping: 850c × 10 min 600c × 10 min

Drain

Water Sopping Chemical

450c Water

Drain

10 min Rinse

Complete Sample

Drain

Chemicals

Safety: • • •

GM Office Slitter m/c Put on safety masks while mixing or transferring alkali acids. Operator must be cautious while handling hydrogen peroxide and caustic soda and use hand gloves, eye protecting glass for safety. During production, after reaching at the optimum temperature (above80) in case the lid of the machine needs to be opened. Operator Steam Gas Dryer must de-pressure gloves, eye protecting Dryer m/cthe machine and use hand m/c glass etc while performing such tusk for safety.

ST EN TE R MA CH IN E

Finishing Layout of finishing section: Open Compactor m/c

Tube Compacto r m/c

Final Inspection

Final Inspection Final Inspection

Inspection table

Packaging

Inspectio n table

Inspection table

Storages

Office

W S N E

Objective of finishing: •

Improving the appearance –Luster, whiteness etc of the fabric.

•

Improving the fell which depends on the handle of the material & its softness.

•

Wearing qualities, non-soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, etc.

•

Special properties required for particular uses, such as water-proofing, flameproofing, etc

•

Increase the weight of the cloth

Types of finishing: • •

Chemical finishing: Use of softeners and different types of finish chemicals. Mechanical Finishing: Finishing by mechanical treatment. For example, compacting with compactor machine.

Finishing effects: • • • • • • • •

Easy-care Crease recovery Dimensional stability Good abrasion resistance Improve tear resistance Good sew ability Soft or stiff handle Shine or luster

Finishing flow diagram: For Tubular form of fabric following machine are required: Hydro-extractor/Dewatering Dryer Tubular Compactor

For open form of fabric following machine are required: Hydro-extractor/Dewatering Slitter Dryer Stenter Open compactor

required For collar & cuff finishing following machine are: Dewatering Softening machine Dryer

Description of Finishing machine: Hydro Extractor m/c: Manufacturer : Extraction% : Speed : Extraction time : Function :

Nazar Corporation (Pakistan) 65% Maximum 1400 rpm 5-7 min To remove the water from the fabric by centrifugal extraction.

Hydro extractor (loading)

Hydro extractor (Unloading)

Dewatering machine: Manufacturer: CALATOR BORAS (SWEDEN) Function: • Reduce water content • Apply finishing chemical • Open the fabric from rope form

Dewatering machine (for body fabric)

Controlling Parameters:

Dewatering machine (for collar/cuff)

Padder pressure Pick up % Speed at m/c

: : :

4-7 bar 80-85% 8-60 m/min

Chemical application: Softener: To soften the fabric Acetic acid : 0.25 g/l pH : 7.5

Drying: Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric.

Curing: Curing can be defined as a process following addition of a finishing to Textile fabrics in which materials are heated for a short time in evaluated temperature to effect a chemical reaction.

Santex relax dryer Equipment used: Following equipment are used for relax drying process: •

Ruckh relex dryer (Germany) • •

•

Gas burner heated. 2 Chamber Santex Relex Dryer ( Switerzerland)

• •

Steam heated 2 chamber

Machine set up: •

Machine set up for Ruckh relex dryer: M/C parameter Set-up value Temperature setting 1000c-1200c for white shade 1200c-1300c for light shade 1300c-1400c for dark shade 1500c-1800c for curing Blower fan setting Auto Exhausted fan speed Auto M/C speed 3-35 m/min. Depends on fabric construction. Over feed 0-40% Depends on fabric construction Burner Gas presser 10-15 m.bar • Machine set up for Santex Relax Dryer: M/C parameter Set-up value Temperature setting 1000c-1100c for white shade 1100c-1200c for light shade 1200c-1300c for dark shade Blower fan setting Auto Exhausted fan speed Auto M/C speed 1-12 m/min. Depends on fabric construction. Over feed 0-45% Depends on fabric construction

Checking parameters: • • • •

Shade Check width Check weight Check Fault Check

Slitter Machine: Slitting: Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales’s line on length wise direction prior to stenter processing.

Front side

Equipment used: Airtex Slitter m/c (Sweden)

Back side

Speed: 20-25 m/min

Machine parts: • • • •

Rotary blade. Guide Roller. Sensor. Plaiting

Stenter machine: Krantz stenter machine (Germeny) Stenter can be defined as a finishing process in which the open width form of the fabric is treated in set up the required width, weight & texture as per customer specifications. These requirements are achieved by a single process. Machine set up: Machine set up for stenter m/c is given below: M/C parameter Temperature setting Blower fan setting Exhausted fan speed M/C speed Over feed Burner Gas presser Padder pressure

Set-up value 900c-1800c (Depends on the pickup requirement) Low/high (according to the fabric quality) Manual 6-60m/min. Depends on fabric construction. 0-60% Depends on fabric construction 30-50 m.bar 2-8 bar (Depends on the pickup requirement)

Width of m/c chain setting

110-260 cm

Stenter machine

Checking parameters: • • • •

Shade Check width Check weight Check Fault Check

over feeding

Compactor machine: The compactor m/c is tubular fabric shrinkage control m/c which can compact the fabric in length wish direction, to provide overfeed to the fabric while processing in presence of steam & able to control the shrinkage. Following things can be controlled by compactor: • • •

Up grad the fabric hand feel & import a smooth, silky touch to the fabric Compress the fabric Reduce the yarn slippage

Equipment used: • •

Ruckh tubular compactor m/c (Germany) Ferraro open compactor m/c (Italy)

Machine set up: m/c set up for Compactor is given below: M/C parameter Temperature setting Steam pressure M/C speed Over feed Air pressure Cooling fan motor

Ferraro open compactor machine

Checking parameters: •

Shade Check

•

width Check

•

weight Check

•

Fault Check

Set-up value 900c-1100c 4-6 bar 3-35 m/min (-10-+40%) 5 bar Auto

Ruckh tubular compactor machine

Singeing Singeing is the process of burning of the fabric hairs projection through the fabric surface. In a gas-singeing machine this burning is carried out by passing fabric against hot flames under specified conditions.

Objects: â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

To obtain a uniform & smooth fabric surface by removing hairiness. To ensure uniform optical reflectance throughout the fabric surface in subsequent fabric wet process.

Equipment-used: Machine ;;: Sando Gas singing machine. Manufacture: Sando Iron Works, Japan.

Singeing machine Required Parameters: Steam: Steam is supplied to steam box of the machine. Compressed air: The standard air supply pressure requirement is 4 kg/cm2. Water: The standard water supply pressure requirement is 1-1.2 kg/cm2. Natural gas: The standard gas supply pressure requirement is 3 kg/cm2.

Machine Setup: Setup parameters Speed (m/min)

Range 0-120

Potentiometer Setting (rpm) Burner in use Burner operation mode. Flame height (cm)

0-150 1 or 2 Auto/Manual 1-8

Set value 55-60 for cotton. 70 for PC/CVC. 80-90 for cotton fabric 60-70 for CVC/PC. 2 Auto 6 for white & light shade fabric.

Flame angle with the direction of fabric. Flame intensity

45º to 90º Low/normal/high

6.5 for medium & dark shade fabric 45º for blends 90º for cotton Low – not used Medium – for whit & light shade High – for medium & dark shade fabric

Mercerizing Mercerization is a process of treatment of cellulosic textile yarn or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibers swollen, the strength and dye affinity of the materials increased, and their handle is modified.

The main changes occurring in the alkaline treatment of cotton are: • • • • •

Solubility in solvents is increased Tensile strength is increased Absorption of dye stuff is increased Water absorption is increased Luster is increased

Equipment used: Dornier mercerizing machine. Required parameter: parameters Squeeze pressure Temp of washing PH after mercerizing Caustic soda solution temp

Value 1.5-2 bar (by compressed air) 80º c to 90ºc 7-7.5 In mixing tank: 80º c -90ºc In caustic storage tank: 70º c - 80ºc In chiller: 16º c- 20ºc In mercerizing bath: 18º-20ºc

Mercerizing machine

machine are of For Tubular form fabric following required: Hydro-extractor/Dewatering Dryer Tubular Compactor

are re ired For following open form machine of fabric:qu Hydro-extractor/Dewatering Slitter Dryer Stenter Open compactor

For collar & cuff finishing following machine are required: Dewatering Softening Machine Dryer

Chemical Used: TC collar & cuff: • Softener • Additive • Stiffener • Acetic acid to adjust pH 100% cotton fabric (soft) • • •

Softener Additive Acetic acid to adjust pH

100% collar & cuff (cross-linking) • •

Softener (cationic/ nonionic) Additive

• • •

Resin Catalyst Acetic acid to adjust pH

TC collar & cuff (Soft): • Softener • Additive • Acetic acid to adjust pH Water Repellent collar & Cuffs: • Softener • Additive • Acetic acid to adjust pH • Hydrophobic agent

Final Inspection Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejecting the final finished fabric from the bulk. It is an observation process of finding out each & every visible fault in the fabric.

Equipment used: • • •

Nazar inspection m/c, Pakistan Inspection table Verivide Day Light box

Nazar inspection m/c,(Front side)

Verivide Light box

Nazar inspection m/c(Back side)

Inspection table

Following faults are detected & identified in final inspection for body: Penalty points legend: H = Hole CS = Chemical stain. W = Water spots. Fy = Fly yarn. YM = Yarn contamination.

WX = White speaks R= Rub mark DS = Dye Stain D= Dirt Stain RS=Rust Stain etc.

Faulty appearance: US = Uneven shade N= Neps CR= Crease mark HR= Hairy MS= Machine stoppage

N= Needle line BR= Barre mark CM= Crumple mark DC= Dead cotton BW= Bowing

Besides, roll to roll and meter to meter variation is checked.

FOUR â&#x20AC;&#x201C; POINT SYSTEM: Size of defect 3 inches or less Over 3 but not over 6 Over 6 but nor over 9 Over 9 inches

Penalty 1 points 2 points 3 points 4 points

Acceptance calculation: Total point per 100 square yards Actual points counted = x Actual Roll length

36 x 100 Actual width

= Points/100 square yards.

Classification of Inspection Fabric: < 40 points 41-60 points 61-80 points 80 above

=A =B =C = Reject

Collar & cuff inspection: After dyeing & finishing operator measure collar & cuff size & width compare with buyer requirements.

Following faults also detect and identify: Faults Rub mark Hole Crumple mark Tipping bleed Uneven shade Neps Oil spot Role to role variation Yarn contamination Barre mark Cutting

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Decision Reject Reject Reprocess Reprocess Reprocess Enzyme wash Reject Reprocess Reject Reject Reject

Some definition of yarn faults: Neps: may Neps be termed as small light balls of tangled fibers. Contamination : When yarn contains hair, foreign matter, other fibre etc along with fiber, it is called yarn contamination. Dead cotton and hairiness: Hairiness arises from the fibres that protrude outside the fabric surface, it is called yarn contamination. â&#x20AC;˘ White speaks: Undyed area due to unwanted fibre mixed with cotton.

: Some definition processing faults: â&#x20AC;˘

to faulty needle this fault caused along Wales direction. Hole: Faulty or damage yarn creates hole in fabric.

â&#x20AC;˘

lot mixing causes this problem. Needle mark: Due to faulty sinker this fault caused.

•

Sinker mark: Due • Barre mark: Different •

Oil mark: When excess lubricant use for knitting machine, then oil mark arises on fabric.

•

Crease mark: Uneven heat control during process. Un-levelness : If dyestuffs are not fixed with fabric uniformly causes this problem. Patches: This problem is as like crease mark but looks meeting effect over PC fabric. Dye stain: Marks of color on fabric surface this problem. Dirty mark: This mark can appear any where in fabric. Rub mark : Caused by friction with metallic component of m/c: Water sports: One to accumulation of water. Chemical stain: Stain caused by rust stain appears on fabric. Bowing: Bowing means ration of bow depth at highest point of arc to fabric width. It is expressed in percentage.

• • • • • • • •

Quality Control: On Line Quality Control: On line Knit quality is the process of evaluating the greige, finishing and checking the knit circular & flat machine parameter, in order to ensure conformity with the fabric specifications required by the customer.

Working Area of On Line Quality Control: a)

On line circular knit: Function: • Design & shade approval. • Yarn & m/c evaluation. • QC parameter checking. • Body& Rib Inspection.

On line flat knit: Function: • Design & shade approval. • Yarn & m/c evaluation. • QC parameter checking. • Collar & cuff. Inspection.

Greige inspection: Function: • 100% Fabric Inspection. • Fabric transfer to store. • Area cleaning. • Co-ordination & reporting.

On line finishing: Function: • 100% Fabric Inspection. • Problem Identification. • Problem Rectification. • Fabric Transfer for reprocesses.

Response to faults:

Following response is to be taken: Faults

Response

Greige inspection

Inform yarn supplier & knitting department.

Knitting fault Finishing fault

Inform knitting Department Inform Finishing Department

Off Line Quality Control: All quality control tests relate to Finished fabric (body, collar/cuff & rib) testing as per customer’s required quality standard or international standard.

Typical Quality control in BKL: • • • • • • • • • •

Shade Check. Gram per square meter (GSM) test Width on diameter check. Shrinkage test Spirility test Crocking/Rubbing Fastness test. Pilling resistance test. Wash fastness test. Water fastness. Color fastness to perspiration. a) Shade check: Shade check after dyeing & finishing of fabric is done according to customers Recommended light source. b) Gram per square Meter: After finishing fabric weight of gram per square meter is check by GSM Cutter + electric Balance.

Equipment used: GSM cutter + Balance.

Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England c) Width on Diameter Check: After finishing of fabric width on dia of the fabric is check by measuring tape. d) Shrinkage test: After finishing of fabric shrinkage is tested. Equipment used: Electrolux wascator. Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd. Halifax, England.

Washcator

Procedure: • • •

Two layers of 50cmx50cm sample is cut. Then stitch the layers. Then wash the sample by (as per customer requirement)BS 26330 3A BS 26330 4A BS 26330 5A

•

Test Methods 60 +/- 3ºc 50 +/- 3ºc 40 +/- 3ºc

Then dryed the sample according to customer requirements: • •

Tumble drying Line drying or Flat Dry 5) Then measured the dryed sample. Standard shrinkage %: Length (max): 5% after domestic washing.

Program – 13 Program – 14 Program – 15

Width (max): 5% after domestic washing. e) Spirility test: After finishing of fabric spirility is tested. Equipment used: Electrolux wascator. Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd. Halifax, England.

Procedure: • • •

Two layer of 21” & 21” sample is cut. Then stich layers. Then wash the a smple by:

BS 26330 3A BS 26330 4A BS 26330 5A • • •

Test Methods 60 +/- 3ºc 50 +/- 3ºc 40 +/- 3ºc

Program – 13 Program – 14 Program – 15

Then dried sample according to customer requirements: Tumble drying Line drying.

Standard spirility %: Maximum: 5% after domestic washing.

f) Rubbing / Crocking fastness: After finishing of fabric rubbing fastness is measured. Equipment used: Crock meter. Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd. Halifax, England.

Crook meter Method: AATCC 8 / ISO 105 – X 12 Standard result: Dry rub: 4s Wet rub: 3s (For very dark shade)

Pilling resistance test: After finishing fabric pilling resistance test is carried out (If required by customer). Equipment used: ICI pilling box. Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd. Halifax, England. Method: BS 5811 or according to customer requirement. Revolutions for BS 5811 method: • 7000 cycle for low pilling • 9000 cycle for medium pilling • 11000 cycle for High pilling.

Procedure: • • • • • • • •

A marker of 5”x5” with two hole line at required distance is put on fabric . Mark the fabric around the marker & draw line through the hole line. Then cut the sample at mark. Then join the draw lines by stitching and put it around rubber tube. 4 Rubber tube is prepared this way. Then put rubber tube in ICI pilling box. Taka similar no. of rubber tube in both box. Then put cycle no and start the m/c. After complete cycle rubber tube beating the sample is taken out from box. Then sample which is pilled compare withPilling STD Photograph No. 1-5

Standard result: Grade: ¾ h) Wash fastness test: After finish of fabric wash fastness is checked: Equipment used: AG machine: Manufacturer: Quyyum textile Engineering, Pakistan

AG machine Ahiba Nuanec: Manufacturer: Data Color International, U.K. Method: ISO 105-C06

Procedure:

• • •

Take multi fabric and take also same size of dyed sample and stitch at one end. Then multi fabric sample put in a m/c beaker and take 25 steel balls into the beaker. Then taka 50 cc solutions of following recipe: 4 g/1 detergent (ECE) 1 g/1 Na-perborate Wash at 60ºc temp x 30 min. Then dried the sample & Measured fastness with staining scale.

•

Standard result: Light shade Staining scale

Dark shade 4

i) Water fastness: After finishing of fabric water fastness is checked. Equipment used: a) Perspirmeter b) Carbolite (Thermostat Oven)

Perspirmeter Manufacture: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England. Method: ISO 105-E01/BS 1006 EO1

Procedure: • • • •

Take multi fabric & take same size of dyed sample & stitch at one end. Dip the sample in distilled water for 20-30 min. Then wet sample is put in perspirometer and kept it in carbolite thermostat Then dried the sample not more than 60ºc and measured with staining scale.

Standard result: Light shade 4

Staining

Dark shade ¾

i) Color fastness to perspiration: After finishing fabric color fastness to perspiration is checked Equipment used: a) Perspirometer b) Carbolite Manufacture: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England. Method: AATCC 15/ISO 105-E04

Procedure: •

A test solution is prepared with: 10 g/1 Sodium chloride.

1 g/1 Lactic acid, USP 85. 1 g/1 Di-sodium hydrogen phosphate, 0.25 g/1 Histadine mono hydrochloride PH: 4.3 ± 0.2 • • • • •

Take multi fabric and sample of same size & stitch at one end. Immerse the test specimen for 15-30 min. Then put the test specimen in perpirometer with 8 ibis load. Then put the perspiromenter in carbolated the most at over for 6 hrs at 38 º ± 1 º c temperatures. Then dry not mere than 60ºc and measure with staining scale.

Standard result: Light shade 4

Staining scale

Dark shade ¾

Maintenance: Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customers is sustained.

Types of maintenance: Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance

Corrective Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance: Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time inspection / checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful depreciation.

Corrective Maintenance / Break down Maintenance: In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order it can not perform its normal function.

PM Tasks list: Maintenance : Mechanical Machine : Thies Dyeing Machine Sl. No. Item need to be checked & serviced 1. Crease the winch bearing (Grease Staburag NBU-12) 2. Complier cleaning of machine 3. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required 4. Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain seals 5. Clean filters element and blow out 6. Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings by BP Energrease LS-2 7. Checking of Oil line and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox. 8. Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing 9. Checking and cleaning (if required) of Main Vessel Level Indicator 10. Check the oil lecel of pump bearing and refill if required by BP Energol THB100 11. Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves 12. Check all belts and belt tension 13. Check all door seals Maintenance: Electrical Machine: Thies Dyeing machine. Sl. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

Item need to be checked & serviced Check & clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers Check all motorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s terminals Check main panel (by using compressed air) Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter Check main pump inverter and its cooling fan Check all on/off switches Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over loads. Visual checking of all power & control cables Check all emergency Switches Check DC drive of neel motors Check all pressure switches Check calibration of main vessel & all additional tank Check all pneumatic solenoids Check calibration of heating/cooling. Modulation value. Check all indicating lamps

Maintenance tools & equipments :

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Pliers Inside Calipers Outside Calipers Digital Multi Meter Heating Shoulder Hammer 7. Philes List of Machines in BKL: NO

Name of Machine

Flat bed knitting machine

Flat bed knitting machine Flat bed knitting machine Flat bed knitting machine Flat bed knitting machine Flat bed knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Circular knitting machine Grey Inspector Machine

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

For 12 ton production. Manufacture/Model/Year Manu Matsuya(japan-70/98)

Specification

Qty

14 Gauge

Matsuya(japan)/M-100/98

14 Gauge

Matsuya(japan)/160-DT/98

Matsuya(japan)/M-100/98

14Gauge/Smi. Jacq 14 Gauge

Stoll(Germany)CMT-211/2001

14Gauge/Smi.jacq

Kauo Heng(Taiwan)KH313/2001 Camber(UK)CE95 Quattro 11/1995 Camber(UK)95(Rib Knit)/1994

14 Gauge

30” Dia

18” Dia

Camber(UK)CE 94 Quattro/1994 Bentley 14RJ MK11/UK/1978

18G 30” Dia

Terrot8 Lock 13p 184 / Germany/1986 Terrot8 Lock 13p 184 / Germany/1986 Pailung PL – TRJA/Taiwan/1995 Stibee RSM/UK/1975

18G 30” Dia

22G 30” Dia

14G 30” Dia

14 G 30”Dia

Terrot Mini jacq.UP.172(Germany)/1980 Monarch RX- WSY (UK)/1983

28G 30”

20G 26” Dia Striper Working Width 12mm Speed 0-60 m/min

Calator,Sweden AS-1202/1994

Turning Machine

Jusa,Portugal

19 20

Turning Machine Mercerizing Machine Rope Washing Machine

Working Width 2300mm -

1 1

21 22 23

Gas singing Machine Dyeing Machine Dyeing Machine

Dyeing Machine

Thies, Germany 3 Tube , 1984/1985 Thies,Germany 2 Tube, 1979

Dyeing Machine

Local 80 Kg

10104 Litre 140c, 3 Bar 600kg 5505 Litre 140c, 3 Bar 600kg 11572 Litre 140c, 3 Bar 300kg 15887 Litre 140c, 3 Bar 300kg 1016 Litre 140c, 3 Bar 450kg 9200Litre 140c, 3 Bar 90kg 4382 Litre 103 c, 0.3 Bar 250kg -

1 6

Local Dornier Germany AMFN/W/SCH/2300/1986 Thies, Germany Ecosoft 140/2, 1995 Sando,japan/1995 Thies,Germany Ecosoft 140/2,1995 Thies,Germany Ecosoft 140/1,1995 Thies,Germany Luftroto 140/2,1995 Thies,Germany Luftroto 140/3,1995 Thies,Germany Minisoft ,1995

Dyeing Machine

Local Winch Machine 20 Kg

Dyeing Machine

Local Winch Machine 15 Kg

Dyeing Machine

Local Winch Machine 10 Kg

Local

Working Width 900mm -

Collar & Cuff squeezing Machine Hydro Extractor Machine Dewater Machine

Dryer Machine

Santex AG/ Switzerland ch9555 Tobel,1985

39 40

Vertical dryer,1999 Ruckh , Germany SKI/1995

Dryer Machine Compacting Calender Machine Compacting Machine

Sliter Machine

Working Width 1200mm Relaxdryer Working Width -2600mm Gasburner Relaxdryer-2500 Heating systemsteam Working Width 1200mm Working Width 2600mm -

Hammadi cheema, Pakistan 1996/1997 Calator, Sweden Airtex 1200 / 1994 Ruckh, Germany HDT 2000/H/4/1995

Ferraro, Italy Comptex,RC2600/2001 Calator,Sewden CR-2400/1994

1 1 1 1 2 1 1

1 1 1 1 1

Stenter Machine

Kranzt,Germany/1998

Nazer, Pakistan/1998

Inspection Machine Fanished Fabric Ahiba sample dyeing Machine Ahiba sample dyeing Machine Sample Drayer Machine

Washing Machine

sample dyeing Machine( AG) Crocometer (Rubbing Fastness) Pilling Tester

Water Fastness Tester

GSM tester

Twist tester

Color Matching Light Box

45 46

Datacolor, USA Spectradye,1999 Datacolor, USA Nuance topspeed,1995 James H. Heal& Co . England Electra Tumble dryer /1995 James H. Heal& Co . England Electrolux Wascator /1995 Qayyum Textiles, Pakistan/1999 James H. Heal& Co . England / 1995 James H. Heal& Co . England / 1995 James H. Heal& Co . England Carbolite water fastness tester / 1995 James H. Heal& Co . England / 1995 James H. Heal& Co . England / 1995 Vervide, Leslie Hasble Ltd. England CAC 150 & CAC 120/1995

7 chamber Working Width 2600mm -

24 Beakers infrared Heaters 12Beakers infrared Heaters -

8 Beakers

Remarks: Maintenance of machines is very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is important for economical consideration. In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team. So very few times production are stopped due to machine problem.

Utility Services: Available facilities of utility: • • • • •

Electricity Gas Water Compressed air Steam.

1 1

Electricity: The main utility electricity is supplied from PDB and also by Generator. Specification: Equipment used: Gas turbine. No. of generator: 8 (1 self start able & other 7 are air+CH4 start able). Manufacturer

: Wartsila-Frank.

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section of Beximco industrial park.

Gas: Gas is mainly used for steam production. The gas is used from TITAS. Generally 36 m3 gases are required to produce 1 ton steam.

Water: Continuous supply of water for BTL, BDL& BKL must be ensured by pump. Mainly two pumps are used for water pick up. PUMP CAPACITY Submersible pump-I 260 m3/hr Submersible pump-II 204 m3/hr

SETUP Discharge value: 100% open Discharge value: 100% open

Depth of pump: 140ft. Also pumps for chemical dosing & Centrifugal pump for yarn dyeing.

Steam: Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand of steam in different sections. Fire tube type boiler is used. No. of boiler: (4+1) twine boiler. 1 boiler is operated by using burn gas. 4 boilers are operated by Titas gas. Chemicals used for boiler feed water: NaCl solution for regeneration. NALCO-4654 (scale remover).

Compressor: Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor & the air is compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn to educe the temperature of compressed air. Thus the cold water becomes slightly hot & goes through outlet pipe to the overhead reservoir. Then the water falls slowly through a sieve and becomes cool & again feed to the compressor. At the other hand the cooled compressed air along with some vapors are transferred to the reservoir where the vapors are condensed and outlets drop by drop.

The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressed air is delivered to required sections of Beximco Industrial Park.

Compressor

Air filter

Chiller: Manufacturer: Thermax. Country: India. -To start a chiller electricity & steam is required. -Capacity: [ (21083)+(500*1)] ton = 1130 ton water cooling. -Absorption type Chiller is used.

Store & Inventory control: Frequency of inventory control: -

Monthly inventory control Annual inventory control

Scope of inventory control: - Raw materials • Dyes store • Others chemicals store • Grey fabrics - Finishing fabric - spare parts - General store Capital equipment Accessories Stationary Maintenance parts.

Inventory system for raw materials: -

Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head office. Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received quantity is mentioned & noted down. Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected. Entry of data of goods in DATATEX. Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.

Department gives store requisition to warehouse. As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.

Yarn

Stages of grey fabric inventory control: -

After knitting production Grey inspection Warehouse Batch preparation Dye house.

Stages of finished fabric inventory control: -

Finishing section After final inspection Warehouse.

Remarks: -

The inventory system of BKL covers both knitting & dyeing inventories. The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably. An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory.

Cost Analysis Factors of costing of a product: The following factors are considered for costing any dyed product. •

Total dyes and chemical cost.

•

Total utility cost

•

Salary

•

Lunch

•

Entertainment cost

•

Government cash incentive

•

Yarn cost

Knitting cost •

Cost of dyeing

•

Cost of finishing

•

Cost of cutting, sewing, accessories etc

•

Cost of printing (If any)

•

Labor cost (direct & indirect)

•

Factory cost

•

Sales and caring cost

•

Others cost

Price of the Product: Are not available. Cost of different Utilities: Electricity Cost: Gas generator = 2.70 TK/KW- HR Diesel generator = 6.50 TK/ KW-HR Gas Cost: 4.94 TK/m3 for boiler 3.66 TK/m3 for generator 4.6 TK/m3 for domestic Purpose Steam Cost: 4.20 TK/ m3 Kg fabric. Packing 1. Poly bag (6 pcs in 1 poly) 2. Carton sticker. 3. Carton (36 pcs per carton) Finishing packing 1. Gum tape for dust 2. Gum tape for carton 3. Scotch tape Fabric consumption

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1

1 2

1. Fabric width and GSM: 84" & 180 2. Front length: (62+2.5+2) cm +5% = 27.5" 3. Back length: (62+2.5+2) cm +5% = 27.5" 4. Front width: (51+2) cm +5% = 22" 5. Back width: (51+2) cm +5% = 22" 6. Sleeve length: (22+2.5+2) cm +5% =11" 7. Sleeve opening: (16+2) cm+5% = 7.5" 8. Length required for 1 doz. Body: (27.5" + 27.5") x 12 = 660" 9. Length required for 1 doz. Sleeve: {(11"+11") x 2} x 12 = 528" 10. Total fabric required for 12 pcs garments: 660"+ 528"= 1188"= 30.18 meter 11. Fabric width: 84" = 2.13 meter 12. Fabric per dozen: 2.13 x 30.18 = 64.29 sq.m = 64.29 x180 = 11.58 kg/ doz. = 11.58 kg + 10% = 12.74 kg/doz 13. Collar: 1 doz/doz of garments 14. Collar length: 41cm 15. Collar height: 8cm+1.5cm=9.5cm

Remarks: The costing of the product is a secret matter of the Ind. They are not interested to flash up the cost related data. So we could not collect the price of product & costing of the product.

Marketing Consumer of the products: Beximco knitting LTD. is a100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers of the products of the industry are given below:

1.Ash city. 2.B&C. 3.Wall mart. 4.Haddad. 5.Pimkie. 6.Zara. 7.Charter House. 8.H&M. Product label: Product label differs from buyer to buyer. The product labels are prepared according to fabric criteria and the buyer requirements.

Package size and label: Package size and label differs from buyer to buyer. The package size and labels are prepared according to fabric criteria and the buyer requirements.

Local Market: Beximco knitting LTD. is a100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into various foreign countries. So,goods are not supplied into local markets. Importing countries: The countries which are importing goods from Beximco knitting Ltd are given below: 1.USA. 2.Canada. 3.Germany. 4.Europian countries.

Marketing Strategy: Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. Beximco knitting Ltd mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser and higher deal with buer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. the marketing officers and by both side understanding the rate and the order quantity are fixed. Duties& responsibilities of marketing officer: The main duties and responsibilities of amarketing officer are given bellow: • to prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer. • To take different steps by discussing with the high officials and merchandiser. • To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchandiser. • To maintain a regular communication with the buyers & buying houses. • Communicate with the new buyer. • Display the criteria of the products.

Aeration tank

Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer & ends after receiving goods by the buyer. so he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.

Remarks:

Social & Environmental information:

Reserve tank

Beximco knitting Ltd has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always communicate with the buyers. The marketing section also looks for the quality & quantity buyers.

Sludge bed

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT: Pump

Thickener

Clarifie r

Pum p

Office tank

Mixing

Controllers

N E

Sand bath

Clarifier Tank

Sludge Rapid growth in the industrial sector is playing a vital role in the economy of Bangladesh. Mainly the growth has been concentrated I garment which arte export oriented industries. To support garments a large number of other textile industries have been established and more are growing to be set up shortly. These rapid growths of textile industries create environmental pollution, mainly pollution in water bodies. The reason of water pollution is lake of appropriate environmental management options in textiles. Among various options most popular and effective option is establishment of perfect waste water treatment plant which is conventionally known as effluent treatment plant and appropriate treatment of waste

water regularly. Though Bangladesh government introduced law to run treatment plants but at present a few treatment plants are running smoothly in some of factories. So the scenario of pollution contributed by textiles yet to improve due to discharging of waste water to water bodies causing detrimental effects to aquatic lives &people who are directly in contact with polluted water. * The water pollution contributed by textiles is wet processing steps. It includes sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing and finishing. * It is estimated that (12-15) litter of water is required for processing one meter of cloth. * In 1943 it was estimated that from 502 textile industries 40000 m3/day waste water was discharged in Bangladesh which created 26000kg/day BOD load. * Individual small scales dyes discharge 8m3/day waste water and the corresponding value for large scale dyers is 70-700m3/day. Standard for textile effluent according to the national effluent quality standards guided by (DOE) Department of Environment of Bangladesh.

Parameters TSS BOD5(20C) OIL&GREASE Total soluble solids Waste water flow Ph Total chromium Sulfide Phenol

limits 100mg/l 150mg/l 10mg/l 2100mg/l 100l/kgof fabric processing 6.9-9mg/l 2mg/l 2mg/l 5mh/l

There are different types of treatment plants: • • •

Physiochemical Biological Physicochemical followed by biological

Pollution control by ETP in bextex: Bextex follow –physicochemical followed by biological treatment plants. This method includes: Primary Secondary

Tertiary method. • • •

Primary treatments include removal of a portion of the suspended solid from the waste water. Secondary treatment means the removal of the bio degradable organic maters and suspended solids in presence of nutrients. Tertiary treatment residual suspended solids are removed which remain after biological treatment.

Process flow chart: Screening Receive tank Mixing tank Sludge thickener Sludge bed

Aeration tank Clear water tank Sand filter & carbon filter

Procedure: 1. Screening unit: Firstly liquid waste is passed through the screening unit to separate the coarser particle. 2. Equalization unit: In this unit hot liquid waste is kept to cool. 3. Primary clarifier: In this unit liquid waste is treated with lime, ferrous sulphate or alum and polyelectrolyte. So that sludge is separated through coagulation and flocculation. Sludge is passed to Sludge processing unit. PH can be controlled by adding concentrated hydrochloric acid in between coagulation processes. 4. Aeration units: After sludge separation in primary clarifier the liquid waste is passed to aeration unit for biological treatments. In aeration unit organic waste is introduced into a reactor where the bacteria culture carries out the conversion of organic matter to CO2, H2O and other products as typical reaction shown below.

Organic matter + O2 + nutrients + CO2 + H2O + other end products It should be noted that urea, diammonium phosphate (DAP) and are generally used as nutrients in aeration tank 5. Sludge processing unit: After biological treatment the sludge is passed to sludge processing unit. Special care should be given for sludge management. The sludge can be filled into the three layer polythene bags and can be used for low land filling purpose. Experts and scientists recently introduced concepts of brick making by sludge. Though it require further studied regarding this purposes. 6. Secondary Clarifier: After biological treatment the liquid waste is passed to the secondary clarifier. In secondary clarifier the upper layer of the liquid waste remains stationary. The liquid waste is passed from the lower level of the secondary clarifier so that remaining dissolved solids are separated as sludge 7. Disinfection unit: The treated liquid waste passed to this unit and treated with sodium hypochlorite to kill remaining microorganism in liquid waste. 8. Reverse osmosis process: Finally treated water is passed through reverse osmosis bed for removed of minor amount of dissolved solids .It is optional. Then effluent is discharged to the water bodies. Chemicals used and cost per kg: • • • •

Ferrous sulphate Lime Poly electrolyte Sulphuric acid

15-20 taka 8-10 take 400-500 take 10-12 take

Capacity: 150m3/h.

Discussion: Bextex Ltd. is the largest and most versatile business conglomerate in the private sector in Bangladesh. Bextex Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through education, training, communication and employees involvement. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality woven & knitwear in time. Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a

continuous activity in Bextex Ltd. with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. To meet the manufacturing quality and promote delivery. Bextex Ltd. decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the year the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers. For achieving their goal, Bextex Ltd. is textiles graduates. According to their capacity they have an enriched production team which is very rare in other factories of Bangladesh. The working environment of Bextex Ltd. is very cordially & friendly. All of the executives & employees of Bextex Ltd. are very much cordial & they always appreciate the learners. The goal of Bextex Ltd. is to get high production & to maintain the quality of the product at a minimum cost. There is no non-woven m/c in Bextex Ltd. But Bextex Ltd. is able to produce all types of knit structure. There is no person to input the self shade of different types of lot everyday in the spectrophotometer but for accuracy of the recipe, it is very important to input the self shade of different lot of dyes in a regular basis. In dyeing lab Bextex Ltd. is using digital pipetting system I think their accuracy will increase to a maximum level. For dyeing they are using Thies m/c but those are not latest. If they use latest Thies of Sclabos m/c, I think their product quality will be higher.

CONCLUSION: Industrial attachment program gives me to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of eight weeks industrial attachment at Beximco knitting Ltd (BKL). I have got the impression that the factory is one of the most modern knit dyeing project in Bangladesh. Though it was established only few years ago, it has earned very good reputation for its best performance over any other knit dyeing project. During my industrial attachment program I had tried to my best to done my duty. My supervising officer also satisfied to me & offer co-operation in every steps. It is completely a new experience in my life, which will be very effective in my service life. During our training period I realized that practical experience is valuable for service life.

Limitation of the Report: â&#x2013;şBecause of the secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities has not been supplied and hence this report excludes these chapters. â&#x2013;şwe had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was not possible to do so.

â&#x2013;şSome of the points in different chapters are not described as these were not available. â&#x2013;şThese whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, hence our effort spent on summarizing them.

Lastly: The special in this report is that the information, data and description is very much subjective and practical. So, one can easily have an idea about the whole dyeing unit of BKL at a single look on it. The new comer can use this report for further details study or can know Beximco knitting Ltd. without much work. But what should be remembered the chemicals, some process steps may be modified within the period this paper goes to the reader.