Bovet Catalogue 2013 by aureliedem

Table of Contents I n t r o d U C T I ON

C h 芒 t e a u d e M 么 t i e r s

Dimi e r 1 7 3 8

Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale Manufacture de Cadrans G r a n d ES C o m p l ic a t i o n s

T h e A r t o f E n g r a v i n g

F l e u r i e r C o m p l ic a t i o n s

F l e u r i e r C o l l e c t i o n 1 0 4 T h e A r t o f M i n i a t u r e P a i n t i n g

118

C h 芒 t e a u d e M 么 t i e r s c o l l e c t i o n

136

B OVET b y Pi n i n f a r i n a 1 4 2 SPORT STER C o l l e c t i o n 1 6 8 Dimi e r C o l l e c t i o n 1 7 4 b o v e t Hi s t o r y

210

Dear Connoisseur of Fine Watchmaking,

OVETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history dates back to 1822 and

Our various collections express the soul of our

A BOVET timepiece thus spans the ages and

it is the source of our constantly renewed

timepieces, inherited from two centuries of

becomes an objet dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art, a work with its own

creativity. This creativity could not exist without

passion dedicated to Fine Watchmaking as well

representation of the world and of time. We wish

its direct link to the art of watchmaking and its

as the combined talents of individuals united

to share this art de vivre with you, as we invite

invaluable fabric of artisan and artistic skills, all

in perpetuating this exceptional legacy. In an

you to step into the flow of history and to treat

of which guarantee and safeguard our standards

age when globalization is revealing its inherent

yourself to the gift of time.

of watchmaking excellence.

limits, our values represent the essential foundations of the Swiss Haute Horlogerie

The timepieces we invite you to discover in this

tradition. They have been safeguarding the

new edition of the BOVET catalogue convey the

independence and guiding the destiny of our

peerless expertise of our in-house artisans. This

House since 1822. They constantly impel us to

being said, despite the deliberately modest scale

push the boundaries of timekeeping excellence

of annual production, a substantial proportion of

as well as of the decorative arts.

Pascal Raffy

Owner of BOVET 1822 & DIMIER 1738

our timepieces consists in one-of-a-kind models that would exceed the space available within a publication of this size.

The place where BOVET’s history began… The Château de Môtiers, originally named Vauxtravers, overlooks the village of Môtiers and indeed the entire Val-de-Travers. Built in the early 14th century by Rodolphe IV, Count of Neuchâtel, it was successively occupied down through the centuries by the lords of the valley. In 1835, the State sold it to Henri-François Du Bois-Bovet, and the descendants of the Bovet family in turn donated it to the Canton of Neuchâtel in 1957. The 5,800 square-metre

Château de Môtiers is a listed historical monument affording exceptional views over the landscapes of the Val-de-Travers, including BOVET’s birthplace in the village of Fleurier. In 2006, the Neuchâtel state authorities were looking to sell this castle of which the upkeep was proving too expensive.

BOVET maintains its

heritage

with the Château’s authentic Haute Horlogerie

workshop. It provides its master watchmakers and artisans a for creativity, serenity and luxurions

craftsmanship.

magical setting

The distinctively sunny, luminous aspect of these Neuchâtel Jura valleys; the serenity bestowed on them by their natural surroundings ; as well as the experience that the local population (known as Vallonniers or Valtraversins) had already developed in micromechanics with the production of machines intended for lacemaking, all represented ideal conditions for the birth of Haute Horlogerie. While the current means of transport and communications now in place in this early 21st century ensure fast and easy year-around access, the formerly isolated Val-de-Travers remains the perfect

r. Pascal Raffy was the only potential

buyer in a position to ensure the long-term preservation of this unique heritage site so fondly cherished by the people of the canton. He was thus able to acquire the Château de

Môtiers, and in doing so to fulfil his dream of offering BOVET the opportunity of returning to its birthplace. An idyllic setting, it is no mere coincidence that Fleurier and the Valde-Travers experienced the early 19th century boom in watchmaking activity that was to ensure the region’s prosperity for almost two centuries. 8

setting for inspiring the creative expression of its watchmaking artisans. This was motivation enough for Pascal Raffy to decide that he would set up BOVET’s watchmaking and engraving workshops in the Château de Môtiers, thereby helping to give the local watch industry the new lease on life that the region had been eagerly awaiting for 30 years. Major redevelopment and renovation work was undertaken as soon as the sale was signed by the State of Neuchâtel and Pascal Raffy. The various parts of the building were allocated and restored in order to house a reception area, administrative premises and workshops. Substantial investments were made in order to ensure that the latter would meet the essential quality criteria enabling watchmakers to exercise their art in the best possible conditions. The broad area chosen for this purpose is ideally exposed and thus enjoys optimal natural light. It nonetheless had to be transformed in order to maintain a minimum and constant humidity rate as well as a pressurised atmosphere able to expel even the slightest traces of dust and impurities. As one can well imagine, this particular set of constraints represented a particularly delicate task for a listed historical monument dating back to the 14th century. 9

Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale Acquired by Pascal Raffy in 2006, the Manufacture DIMIER 1738 currently employs 68 people exercising 41 different professions. This diversity enables DIMIER 1738 to unite under one roof the entire range of skills required for the various stages of developing and producing Haute Horlogerie movements, including the rarest and most demanding in terms of expertise. As the realm of confidential series and one-of-a-kind creations, the Manufacture is rigorously structured and organised so as to optimise the work of the artisans, as well as the logistic flow, both of which require even more sensitive handling. The quantity of the movements and the timepieces manufactured is deliberately controlled so as to guarantee higher quality criteria.

Steel, brass and nickel silver are

carefully stored in plates,

bars or strips ready to be processed by the substantial fleet of machines in use at

DIMIER 1738.

he quality control department, essentially composed of

experienced watchmakers, intervenes right from the start of each endeavour. From the first discussions regarding a new project right the way through to after-sales service, it acts as an authentic interface between the collector, the technical department and all those engaged in production. Positioned both upstream and downstream of all stages in the creation of a timepiece, this “starshaped” operational network structure guarantees the immediate

he rigorous approach and the in-house criteria governing

the unit formed by the exterior and the motor or movement right

the quality control enable DIMIER 1738 and BOVET 1822, who

from the start of the development of a timepiece. The generous

are also founding members of the “Quality Fleurier Certification ”

size of this department serves to avoid the bottlenecks often

to work regularly with independent certification bodies such as

encountered at this stage of product development. It also enables

the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, Chronofiable,

the constructors to cross-check their respective work, thereby

and Metalo-test, to mention but a few.

guaranteeing the quality and the smooth flow of production. To ensure optimal logistics, the workshops of the Manufacture

The technical department with its ten-strong team is responsible

are organised according to the chronology of the various

for developing and supervising the design and the making

production stages. The lower floor is occupied by the micro-

of each calibre and of each timepiece. Constructors and

mechanics department. This is the world of inherited and

watchmakers specialising in the study and development of

future-driven technologies. The upper, more serene floor is

dials and watch exterior elements share open-plan office space

home to the artisans and watchmakers. The human scale of the

with their counterparts in charge of movements and of Grandes Complications models. This physical proximity of their activities

to chronologically follow and appreciate each stage in the

and their shared development ensure the overall consistency of

manufacturing of a timepiece.

Manufacture at DIMIER 1738 enables a rare opportunity

integration of solutions to potential problems arising when launching production, as well as of the improvements suggested by the experience of all involved – with the ultimate aim of effectively and rapidly meeting the established specifications.

he tour begins with the stock of materials. Steel, brass and

Like stamping, cutting pinion and wheel teeth calls for

nickel silver are carefully stored in plates, bars or strips ready to be

specific tools as well as expertise that has become a rarity,

processed by the substantial fleet of machines in use at DIMIER.

and a wealth of experience. This exclusive skill is frequently

State-of-the-art CNC machinery rubs shoulders with more ancient

outsourced and thus often leads to numerous and costly delays.

tools and instruments offering possibilities and a precision that

The virtuosity of the artisans engaged in this task, combined

remain unequalled to this day. The fact of attributing specific tasks

with that of their colleagues in charge of burnishing the pivots,

to each machine optimises the results of each, while keeping setting

guarantees exemplary efficiency of the gear trains that may

times to a minimum and ensuring a smoother production flow.

comprise pinions with a total diameter of less than 0.50mm, and meeting the most demanding technical, aesthetic and precision

Each operation can thus be vertically integrated within a global

timing standards.

production process, or be independently activated according to specific needs, without influencing the other stages of production.

The tour then takes us to the upper floor and continues in the

Integrating and mastering techniques such as machining, spark

laboratory and workshop dedicated to balance-springs. As the

erosion and stamping enables DIMIER to produce all its parts,

beating heart and the custodian of the precision of a mechanical

from the smallest screw to the most complex plate, and in

timepiece, the balance-spring is also the part that requires the

whatever materials required.

most rigorous knowledge and mastery in the fields of chemistry, physics and mechanics. DIMIER has been producing its own

In addition to the numerous presses required for making

balance-springs since 2006 and is one of the extremely rare

components requiring stamping at forces from 1.5t to 25t, DIMIER

manufacturers capable of making this component. The metal

can also rely on the knowledge of swage-makers capable of

alloy used in producing balance-springs is as complex as the

making these tools â&#x20AC;&#x201C; by hand as far as the smaller ones are

conditions required to make it. The various drawing and rolling

concerned â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and ensuring their virtually endless durability, as

stages that create its rectangular cross-section, followed by

confirmed by the press-tool storeroom, the memory of

coiling, the creation of the terminal curve and counting are

the Manufacture, where one sometimes finds 50 year-old

all operations performed at DIMIER and resulting in springs

tools ready to spring into instant action if needed. It is these

endowed with properties guaranteeing optimal isochronism.

same swage-makers who handle the maintenance, adjustment

The balance-spring is the beating

heart of a timepiece and the custodian

and modifications of the machinery, as well as all the related production operations such as blanking or bending.

precision of a mechanical timepiece. The balance-spring is also the component requiring the most rigorous knowledge and mastery of chemistry, physics and mechanics. of the

Circular graining, linear or circular Côtes de Genève, snailing, hand-bevelling and embossing of the brass and steel parts, chasing, hand-engraving and even miniature paintings are all traditional crafts perpetuated by DIMIER. Whether for a special demand destined for a collector, a one-of-a-kind creation or timepieces produced in confidential series, each part of each movement becomes truly unique here thanks to the skill and know-how of the artisans.

The tour ends on this note of meditative silence. Here, in the watchmaker’s den, strategically located between the technical

s well as representing the last and indispensable touch in

department and quality control, is where the work of the 172 staff

the making of Haute Horlogerie movements, decoration brings

members of DIMIER 1738 and BOVET 1822 actually springs to life.

the personalisation that embodies the very essence of the House

The 15 watchmakers at work here proceed to the delicate assembly

of BOVET 1822. In this activity where the human hand remains

of the movements. The accuracy of their gestures and their wealth

unequalled and irreplaceable, DIMIER once again hosts a rare

of experience consistently overcome the many difficulties involved

range of skills.

in the exercise of their art, and meet the most stringent demands in

movement becomes truly unique here thanks to the skill and know-how of the artisans. ...each part of each

the fields of precision, performance and aesthetics. 16

Manufacture de Cadrans Today, dials are made of a large variety of materials such as enamel, lacquer, motherof-pearl, transparent mineral crystal, carbon fiber and often of a combination of several of these materials. Many elaborate features are found on dials such as apertures, sub-counters, multi-levels, metallic wire frames, or hand-applied indexes. The large variety of designs and decorative finishes found in dials today require BOVETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dial crafting workshop and its artisans to master a vast amount of techniques and crafts. As artists seek to express themselves through their art, a handcrafted BOVET timepiece conveys its exquisiteness through its dial. The design of a dial is inspired by the internal construction of mechanisms, gear train and movement complications. It is the movement that defines the positioning of the hands, counters, apertures and indications on the dial. Each BOVET dial demonstrates the unique story of the timepiece in which it is found. They are carefully crafted by skilled artisans who uphold BOVETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decorative tradition today.

dials incorporate a wide array of materials such as transparent mineral crystal, BOVET

mother-of-pearl and enamel. 18

Symbol of Mechanical Refinement Our Grand Complications collection pays homage to the genius of watchmaking, testifying through their multiple functions to the prowess of an expertise that encapsulates a wide variety of specific skills. While research and development of a complicated movement can take many years, the work of the watchmaker can last up to six months for a complication consisting of 500 parts. The Rising Star Tourbillon, the Virtuoso Tourbillon, the Amadeo速 Amadeo Tourbillon, the Big Date Tourbillon, the Fleurier 0 Tourbillon, the Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Triple Time Zone and Automaton, the Minute Repeater with Reversed Hand-Fitting and the Tourbillon OTTANTA速, OTTANTADUE, OTTANTATRE embody the exclusive world of BOVET Grand Complications.

AMADEO ® RISING STAR 7-Day Triple Time Zone Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon,

power reserve indicator, 2nd time zone (hours

and minutes), 3rd time zone (hours and minutes).

City indicator and day/night indicator for 2nd and

3rd time zones, reversed hand-fitting D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold * s e t t i n g Bezel set with 64 baguette-cut diamonds for ~4.43cts D I ALS

Brown guilloché dial on the front and black guilloché

dial on the reverse side

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM01AI

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AIRS005-SB1

Limited Edition of 19 timepieces *Available in 18K white gold with a variety of dial selections

AMADEO ® RISING STAR 7-Day Triple Time Zone Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon,

power reserve indicator, 2nd time zone (hours

and minutes), 3rd time zone (hours and minutes).

City indicator and day/night indicator for 2nd and

3rd time zones, reversed hand-fitting D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold * D I AL s

White mother-of-pearl dial with black guilloché sub-dials

on the front and white mother-of-pearl dial on the reverse side

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM01AI

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AIRS011

Limited Edition of 19 timepieces *Available in 18K white gold with a variety of dial selections

AMADEO ® RISING STAR 7-Day Triple Time Zone Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon,

power reserve indicator, 2nd time zone (hours

and minutes), 3rd time zone (hours and minutes).

City indicator and day/night indicator for 2nd and

3rd time zones, reversed hand-fitting D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold* D I AL s Black guilloché dial on the front and black guilloché

dial on the reverse side

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM01AI

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K white gold, 26cm

AIRS004

Limited Edition of 19 timepieces *Available in 18K red gold with a variety of dial selections

n the occasion of its 190th anniversary, BOVET offered its

collectors a number of new releases. Among them, the timepiece poetically named Rising Star takes its rightful place as the new jewel in the crown within the Grandes Complications collection. As one might expect, this authentic work of art comes entirely from the workshops of DIMIER 1738, the traditional manufacturing facility of the House of BOVET. It treats us to an entirely redesigned tourbillon movement embodying a range of superlative qualities. To start with, the tourbillon carriage has been enlarged to a 13.50mm diameter. The carriage now appears to be suspended in the void to create a better aesthetic effect. The rest of the movement enjoys the surface area provided by the two three-quarter mainplates, between which the DIMIER 1738 watchmakers have managed to integrate a wide range of highly useful indications and mechanisms. As an additional feat, all the indications are arranged in a perfectly balanced and symmetrical manner. The horizontal axis of the main dial carries three time zones. The two secondary time zones are placed at 9 and 3 o’clock and are respectively complemented by the precious indication of one of the 24 cities corresponding to the time zone being displayed, as well as two day/night indicators. In addition to the hours and minutes of local time (in the centre), the vertical axis displays a power reserve at 12 o’clock and the seconds hand borne on the upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock.

The two discs thus appear in their respective apertures exactly mid-way between the top of the disc and the lower part of the dial plate. This clever trick makes the difference in height between the two discs virtually imperceptible, although the many differences in level of the dial plate singularly complicate its polishing and the creation of the various surface states. Only the skills acquired by the most experienced artisans enables them to achieve such a result before the meticulous assembly of the 33 parts composing this dial.

Only the skills acquired by the

artisans

most experienced

enables them to achieve such a result before the meticulous

assembly of the 33 parts composing this dial.

s is the case for all BOVET timepieces,

the dials of the Rising Star are made by DIMIER 1738 Manufacture de Cadrans, in

Geneva. The construction of the dial displaying three time zones simultaneously is the most complex

one

ever

executed

BOVET.

The 24 cities on each of the two discs relating to the time zones call for a substantial diameter, which is why they are stacked on top of each other. While this solution is relatively frequent, a less usual feature is the fact that this difference in height is compensated for in the machining of the dial plate. 30

his second face of the timepiece bears

a number of symbols. The figure eight or symbol of infinity formed by the tourbillon and the dial embodies longevity and prosperity in many cultures. On this side, the symmetry and equilibrium sought by Pascal Raffy are clearly apparent in even the smallest details of the calibre. This side of the movement testifies to the particular talent shown by the constructors and watchmakers of DIMIER 1738 in the art of magnifying volumes. There are thus no less than five levels concentric with the axis of the hands, between the attachments of the carriage and the dial that thereby shines on a majestic pedestal. The tourbillon carriage alone comprises a wealth of examples of the care lavished on each detail, often inspired by the timepieces making up the historical collections owned by Pascal Raffy and BOVET. The steel parts reflect the iconic shape of historical index assemblies. The bevellers have spared no effort in this succession of interior angles, rounded off up to dazzle us with a mirror polish featuring sharp, clear-cut angles. The carriage and tourbillon bridges are particularly concerned by this tribute to the past.

t is indeed the central part of the tourbillon bridge that inspired the name of the

timepiece. Its shape and its finishes evoke the sparkle of the North Star, the brightest in the Ursa Minor constellation, an ageless point of reference and orientation for travellers and sailors, and a universal symbol surpassing any cultural or religious considerations. Like all other DIMIER tourbillon movements, the frequency of the regulating organ is of 21,600vph. Such a high frequency enhances precision, but generally reduces the power reserve. The movement of the Rising Star Tourbillon continuously drives four pairs of hands and two day/night indicators â&#x20AC;&#x201C; entailing additional energy consumption that should have significant consequences on the power reserve. The balance of the Rising Star achieves the extraordinary performance of beating at 21,600vph and yet of maintaining the 7-day power reserve, all the while powering the ten hands and their complex mechanics housed within this timepiece.

he balance felly also evokes that of its

glorious ancestors. It features the same dynamic oscillating weights used in poising the balances of the timepieces crafted by Edouard Bovet in the 19th century. Their shape reflects the same historical outline designed to guarantee optimal aerodynamics and to avoid disturbing oscillations of the balance. Since the balance and spring assembly has always been considered as the heart of the watch, early 19th century Chinese beliefs invited people to preserve the vital organ of the timepiece against the intrusion of â&#x20AC;&#x153;evil spiritsâ&#x20AC;?. The oscillating weights often shaped like knives or axes were thus supposed, by oscillating rapidly on the balance rim, to avoid such demons from finding their way beyond this limit and thus bringing the timepiece to a halt.

he Rising star Tourbillon is handcrafted in limited series

of 19 spread between cases in 18K red gold and 18K white gold. In tribute to the historical timepieces and in celebration

According to the legends, these dynamic weights would prevent the evil minds from stopping the timepiece.

of the 190th anniversary of the venerable House, the subdial of each is graced with a miniature painting reproducing the enamelled themes of various iconic timepieces in the historical collections of Pascal Raffy and BOVET 1822. The dials of this highly prestigious edition are surrounded with set half-pearls, as were the bezels of 19th century pocket watches. Madonna Della Sedia, circa 1830 35

The first complicated timepiece certified by the Foundation QualitĂŠ Fleurier In 2001, BOVET co-founded the Fleurier Quality Foundation, an independent entity which delivers what is acknowledged to be the most stringent watchmaking quality label in existence today. On that occasion, Pascal Raffy promised that the first timepiece to be certified by the House of BOVET would be manufactured entirely in its own workshops. Today he is honouring that promise in a particularly impressive way. BOVET has indeed just certified its first timepiece manufactured entirely by DIMIER 1738

Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale. With its 608 components, the Rising Star tourbillon is the emblematic model of the Grandes Complications Collection. This timepiece is the most complicated timepiece to have been developed and manufactured by the House. To qualify for the precious label, the timepieces must pass a wide range of exceptionally stringent tests. Each timepiece must satisfy both chronometric and aesthetic criteria, guarantee impeccable reliability, provide evidence of high quality manufacturing processes and be decorated according to the most stringent norms of Prestige Watchmaking. Last but not least, all of the components must be manufactured and assembled in Switzerland (100% Swiss Made). To justify a chronometric standard worthy of the label, the movements must first obtain a certificate issued by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). A second chronometry test is performed by the Fleurier Quality Foundation, once the timepiece has been completed and cased-up. These measurements are taken on a machine which has been specially developed by and for the FQF: the Fleuritest. This is a computer-controlled robot.

Unique Piece

he movements and daily activity of a wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrist have been

programmed according to various models. With these different models, the Fleuritest therefore simulates the natural movements of a dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s use, while at the same time measuring and analyzing the rate and accuracy of the timepiece. The FQF label also requires the timepiece to be Chronofiable validated. Chronofiable is an independent laboratory whose role is to test the dependability of the components and entire timepiece over the long term. The movement was presented to them first in kit form so that each component could be examined individually in its entirety. The choice of materials, the resources deployed, the manufacturing techniques, selection of finishes and decoration have all been analysed at great length to determine compliance with the regulations adopted by the Foundation. A second expertise takes place once the movement has been finished and assembled in order to test the consistency between theory, aesthetics, functions, chronometry and durability of the movement. Because of the complexity of the Rising Star tourbillon movement, twelve months were needed to complete all of these tests. The principles underlying the Fleurier Quality Foundation likewise embody those of the House of BOVET. Logically enough, the two seals therefore appear on the same timepiece. This event had to be awaited patiently because Pascal Raffy first needed to restore to BOVET its status as a Manufactory and guarantee its sustained excellence. This first for the House of BOVET is also a first for the Fleurier Quality Foundation because the Rising Star Tourbillon is the most complicated timepiece to have been certified by the Foundation in the twelve years of its existence. 38

AMADEO 速 FLEURIER VIRTUOSO 5-Day Tourbillon Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, coaxial indicators,

seconds on tourbillon, power reserve and reversed hand-fitting

hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

44mm

Case

Amadeo速 convertible system, 18K red gold

Di a l s

White polished enamel on the front and reverse dial

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM02AI-HSMR

Strap

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B uck l e

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AIVI003

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

AMADEO 速 FLEURIER VIRTUOSO 5-Day Tourbillon Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, coaxial indicators,

seconds on tourbillon, power reserve and reversed hand-fitting

hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

44mm

Case

Amadeo速 convertible system, 18K red gold

Di a l s Black polished enamel on the front and reverse dial M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM02AI-HSMR

Strap

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B uck l e

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AIVI001

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

AMADEO 速 FLEURIER VIRTUOSO 5-Day Tourbillon Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, coaxial indicators,

seconds on tourbillon, power reserve and reversed hand-fitting

hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

44mm

Case

Amadeo速 convertible system, 18K white gold

Di a l

White polished enamel on the front and reverse dial

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM02AI-HSMR

Strap

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B uck l e

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K white, 26cm

AIVI004

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

ight at first glance, the fusion between the movement and

the case to form a unique entity appears more clearly than ever.

The original way in which the volume provided by the case is occupied grants pride of place to wide-open spaces, as if better to suspend time. As usual, the instructions given by Pascal Raffy in the early stages of development led the craftsmen to orchestrate complex mechanisms in order to secure the best possible performances – while ensuring complete respect for the aesthetic criteria of the House of BOVET that have been nurturing watchmaking’s artistic heritage for over two centuries. The Virtuoso Tourbillon offers a new vision of time and an unusual hour read-off. The jumping hours are read off on a disc appearing through an aperture, which is located in exactly the centre of the movement – a House signature. Despite the small space available, the DIMIER watchmakers have managed to integrate two star wheels ensuring that the disc jumps instantaneously at each new hour.

lthough shown by a hand, the minute

The understated elegance, readability and

indication is also original in that it takes the form

uncluttered spaces of the Virtuoso Tourbillon

of a retrograde display. Only the upper part of

might almost make one forget its complex

the dial is graduated from 0 to 60 across a 160Â°

features â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as the presence of instant

arc of a circle. The minute hand sweeps over this

jumping hour and retrograde minute displays

segment for a complete hour. At the very instant

as well as a power reserve indicator around

when the hour disc jumps, the retrograde minute

just one axis. Providing this information co-

hand jumps abruptly back to zero to begin a new

axially generously implies making somewhat

cycle, without losing even a fraction of a second.

unattractive compromises in terms of thickness.

In this process, the minute hand and indeed

The DIMIER watchmakers have achieved this

the entire retrograde mechanism are subjected

feat without the movement thickness exceeding

to phenomenal acceleration and deceleration.

that of a similar calibre providing a standard

Few mechanical systems would indeed be able

central indication of the hours and minutes.

to withstand such strain over the long term. Since the tourbillon movements manufactured by DIMIER are all endowed with substantial autonomy, the power reserve is systematically indicated on them. On this model, the 5-day (120 hours) power reserve appears on the lower part of the front dial, between the centre and the hour aperture. Many Grandes Complications models

have

movements

accustomed

encumbered

collectors

with

complex

Few

mechanical systems

would indeed be able to withstand such strain over the

long term.

interwoven mass of mechanisms and parts that obstruct smooth and easy reading of the various items of information.

s far as the case is concerned, it complies

with all the aesthetic codes of the Amadeo® Fleurier collections and is thus convertible and fitted with the distinctive bow and crown at 12 o’clock. Nonetheless, the case of the Virtuoso Tourbillon has been entirely redesigned. Its case middle displays perfect symmetry and the two sapphire crystals follow the exact same curve. This means that the volume of the timepiece is closer than ever to that of the pocket watches produced by Edouard Bovet at the dawn of the 19th century. The sliding bolt that activates the Amadeo® system enabling the user to transform the timepiece is generally discreetly located in the lower bezel ring (or foot) on the case-back. Pressing the crown of the Virtuoso Tourbillon

The

tourbillon the historical

carriage of the Virtuoso embodies both

past and the future of the House of BOVET.

activates the Amadeo® mechanism that is yet again located along the same axis as the winding and time-setting mechanisms. The airy shape of the movement, suspended

from two arms at 3 and 9 o’clock, its technical

he lower half of the timepiece is occupied by the tourbillon

timepieces have drawn upon their expertise and on the latest

alone. It is set on top of a uniquely shaped mainplate.

technologies in reproducing a “ tail lever ” such as those found on

The tourbillon carriage of this Virtuoso embodies both the

pocket watches by the House in the latter half of the 19th century,

historical past and the future of the House of BOVET 1822.

since that of the Virtuoso Tourbillon is ten times smaller than its

The balance-spring echoes the identity codes of the Rising Star

illustrious forerunners. Although virtually invisible, the escape-

Tourbillon, notably including the presence of three blued weights.

wheel has also been endowed with a special feature. While the

The steel parts are bevelled and polished on both sides and

escape-wheel is generally connected to its arbor by four straight

both carriage and tourbillon bridges are rounded off, while their

spokes, that of the Virtuoso Tourbillon has only two curved spokes

design evokes the index assembly of the 19th century timepieces

that divide its circumference into Yin and Yang symbols, an implied

signed by the Bovet brothers. Eager to go even further, the DIMIER

reference to BOVET’s history in China.

density concentrated in its center, offers a far smaller surface area than usual for decoration. This makes the aesthetic delicacy of the parts and the work of hand engravers even more difficult. The refined tastes and the passion that inspire the BOVET and DIMIER artisans lead them to spare no effort in their tasks, and they have thus as usual decorated each detail that was technically possible to adorn – to spectacular and highly original effect. 51

AMADEO ® FLEURIER AMADEO 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

Di a l s

Skeletonized and Fleurisanne hand-engraved front dial and black guilloché dial with Roman applied numerals on the reverse side Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre 14BM02AI Hand-stitched, full skin alligator 18K red gold ardillon 18K red gold, 26cm

M OVE M ENT Strap B uck l e C HA I N

AIFSQ015

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

AMADEO ® FLEURIER AMADEO 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

Skeletonized and Fleurisanne hand-engraved front dial and black guilloché dial with Roman applied numerals on the reverse side M OVE M ENT Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre 14BM02AI Strap Hand-stitched, full skin alligator B uck l e 18K white gold ardillon C HA I N 18K white gold, 26cm Di a l s

AIFSQ018

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

AMADEO ® FLEURIER AMADEO 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

AIFSQ016

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

mong the many new releases unveiled at the Salon BOVET

2013, is the first skeletonised Tourbillon manufactured by and for BOVET. This timepiece is a new anthem to the decorative arts. The use of three-quarter plates already allows a great deal of light to pour through the tourbillon carriage. This further increases the mechanical density in the upper section of the movement, especially since the latter houses the two traditional barrels supplying sufficient energy to ensure a 7-day power reserveâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;. Engraving artisans traditionally receive sets of openworked bridges and mainplates and decorate their surfaces by following the cut-out shapes. In this case however, Pascal Raffy and his teams took a different approach to this timepiece in order for it to achieve aesthetic excellence without reducing its reliability and its precision-timing performances. The secret of this successful accomplishment stems from the fact of having jointly entrusted the design of the skeleton working to watchmakers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for the technical aspects â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and to engraving artisans. By incorporating technical constraints into their aesthetic endeavours, the latter were able to endow the plates and bridges with cut-out shapes designed to make a perfect match with the Fleurisanne engravings

that they would then execute on the surface of each component.

ovements crafted by DIMIER 1738 are notably distinguished by their ability to highlight

volumes. The aesthetic and the decoration of the movements are always conceived in three dimensions. The Amadeo® Tourbillon represents the ultimate expression of the use of volumes that makes it more a sculpture than a decorated mechanism. The cut-out shapes of the parts, their engravings and the contrasts between the different surface states accentuate the complexity of the mechanism and magnify each detail. Hours and hours of observation would not suffice to discover each subtle feature, each detail or each stroke of genius – such as that of engraving the plates on both sides. This apparently simple idea delivers obvious and breathtaking benefits, while also further complicating the work of the engraving artisans. It is indeed extremely risky and delicate to engrave the second face of a bridge or a plate without jeopardising the hours of patient work that has been lavished on engraving the first face. The reversible and convertible reverse hand-fitting shows the hours and minutes via off-centred hands on the second face of the timepiece. This reversed hand-fitting appears on the only dial of the Amadeo® Tourbillon. It is in fact a guilloché chapter ring which, in harmony with the finest tradition of skeleton movements, features an open centre providing enchanting views of the mechanism within. To provide a sufficiently clear framework of reference and readability, three Roman numerals are visible on the movement at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock. According to the white gold or red gold versions of this timepiece, the movement is given a gold-plated or rhodium-plated coating. Meanwhile, the sprinkling of blue accents of the hands, the screws and the balance rim creates a striking overall contrasting effect that endows it with graphic strength and exemplary readability.

AMADEO ® FLEURIER BIG DATE 5-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white or red gold

Di a l s

Black guilloché dial with applied index on the front

and the reverse sides

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 14BM01AI

Strap

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B uck l e

18K white or red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K white or red gold, 26cm

AIGDA002

Limited Edition of 39 timepieces

ike all the timepieces in the Fleurier collection, the Tourbillon

Big Date is clothed in a convertible AmadeoÂŽ case. In addition to the possibility of converting the timepiece into a table clock or a pocket watch, this case is also reversible on the wrist, meaning one can choose to show one of its two faces. This doubles the surface available for displaying the various functions of information. The first side of the movement bears the main indications. The upper pivot of the tourbillon which appears at 3 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock carries a triple seconds hand. The seconds are read off quite distinctly, with each of the three arms of the hand successively running over a 120Â° segment elegantly engraved on the mainplate, concentrically with the tourbillon movement. This triple hand offers the additional advantage of maintaining the dynamic equilibrium of the overall tourbillon carriage. In order to provide maximum space for the large date mechanism and to ensure it lives up to its name, hours and minutes are offset in the upper part of the movement, resulting in each piece of information appearing quite clearly in a dedicated movement zone.

he big date mechanism, which made its first appearance on

wristwatches in the 1990s, drastically improves readability by quadrupling the display surface. The technical solution for displaying a big date consists in printing the numerals for the tens and units on two separate concentric discs. The date cycle, in movements that are not perpetual calendar versions, runs over 31 days, so 01 is systematically displayed after 31. This is a far cry from the decimal system and the date mechanism is thus singularly complicated and involves a larger number of parts. The entire big date mechanism is visible, apart from the components located beneath the discs. This means that the dial extends beyond its guilloché-worked zone to surround the units disc and display the date through an original circular aperture. The guilloché dial and the big date discs form a figure eight which contributes to the aesthetic equilibrium and harmony. The tourbillon carriage and the date corrector mechanism occupy the side areas. The other side of the timepiece shows a very different face. The hours and minutes of the reverse hand-fitting are traditionally placed at the dial-free centre of the movement which is engraved with a Fleurisanne motif and openworked as much as the complexity of the calibre permits. It is on this side that the power reserve indicator appears discreetly at 2 o’clock – a deliberate

discretion designed to avoid disturbing the splendour of this

fter the hours, minutes and seconds, a date

“ mechanical sculpture ” and its engraving – especially since the

display is the most commonly found additional

5-day power reserve means there is no need to keep too close an

function. Traditionally, a disc numbered from 1 to 31 occupies the movement circumference. It has 31 teeth on its inner diameter and is driven forward in one-step increments at midnight every 24 hours.

big date mechanism drastically improves readability by quadrupling The

eye on this information.

the display surface. 67

AMADEO ® FLEURIER ∅ 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold *

Di a l s

Black guilloché dial with Roman applied numerals

on the front and reverse side

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 14BM02AI

Strap

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B uck l e

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AIF0T001-GO

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces *Available in 18K white gold with a variety of dial selections

AMADEO ® FLEURIER ∅ 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power reserve and reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, fully hand-chiseled,

18K white or red gold Fleurisanne hand-engraved front dial and black guilloché dial on the reverse side Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre 14BM02AI Hand-stitched, full skin alligator 18K white or red gold ardillon 18K white or red gold, 26cm

Di a l s M OVE M ENT Strap B uck l e C HA I N

AIF0T006-C12346-S5

hen it comes to watchmaking, only perfection can meet

the requirements laid down by Pascal Raffy. That is precisely why he allocates the necessary time to the creation of each new development that he will only allow to find its place in showcases when it has reached authentic excellence in terms of precision timing and aesthetic elegance. Such are the principles governing the destiny of the 7-day power reserve tourbillon movement powering the Fleurier 0. As is apparent from the new position of the tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock, this Tourbillon Fleurier 0 is driven by an all-new movement. This new geometry served to further enhance its precision-timing qualities, while providing an aesthetic appeal and elegant symmetry capable of sublimating the workmanship of the artisans who performed the decoration. Shifting the position of the tourbillon carriage enabled a complete rethink of the structure of a movement in which all components, apart from the tourbillon, are borne by the two three-quarter mainplates. This highly demanding and typically 19th century type of construction

gives

admirable

rigidity

and

mechanical

homogeneity, while providing fine spaces on which the House engravers can express their talent. It also frees up even more space for the regulating organ. The diameter of the carriage was thus enlarged to 13.50mm. This extra space magnificently highlights the magical spinning of this “ mechanical star ”.

The Fleurier 0 Tourbillon is thus regulated by a regulating organ oscillating at 21,600v/h â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a high frequency for a movement equipped with a tourbillon. While such a high frequency is generally chosen to the detriment of the power reserve, the DIMIER watchmakers were able to calculate an exclusive balance-spring enabling them to reach a compromise between a high frequency and exceptional 7-day autonomy.

he metal alloy used to make balance-springs is as complex

as the conditions imposed by its manufacturing. The various drawing and rolling stages that endow it with its characteristic rectangular cross-section, along with coiling, shaping the end curve and counting are all operations performed in-house by DIMIER and which result in springs boasting properties that guarantee optimal isochronism. While only a handful of workshops are capable of producing balance-springs according to traditional methods and such a capability calls for colossal investments, this expertise enables DIMIER to surpass the performances of the standard balancesprings offered by an extremely small number of existing suppliers.

ixty-eight of the two hundred and eighty

in a vertical position, and also that its reversed

seven parts of the movement compose the

hand-fitting enables the Fleurier 0 Tourbillon to

tourbillon carriage, and each of them has

offer a second face. The latter is displayed on a

been entirely rethought and redesigned by the

small offset dial that provides ample space for

watchmakers of DIMIER 1738 Manufacture de

the exquisite Fleurisanne engraving adorning

Haute

the three-quarter mainplate.

Horlogerie

Artisanale,

drawing

inspiration from the historical timepieces in the private collections of Pascal Raffy and of BOVET 1822. The steel parts echo the emblematic shape of historical index-assemblies. The bevellers have spared no effort in creating a succession of interior, rounded-off angles in order to dazzle us with a mirror polish featuring clear-cut, sharp angles. The outer rim or felly of the balance also evokes its noble predecessors. Its subtle contours evoke the shape of the dynamic weights that were used to ensure the proper equilibrium of the balances in the timepieces made by Edouard Bovet in the 19th century. These weights were made of blued steel, which explains why the balance of this Fleurier 0 also bears a royal blue colour. The Fleurier 0 Tourbillon is naturally housed in the Amadeo速 case which serves to convert the timepiece into a table clock, a pocket watch or a reversible wristwatch without any need for tools. This match between movement and exterior is undeniably legitimate when one recalls that the tourbillon was invented in the era of the pocket watch to counter-balance the effects of gravity when timepieces remain 77

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 44 Butterfly Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

44mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red or white gold

D I AL

Openwork, black inner bezel with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 110 hours power reserve,

calibre 12BM05

Bridges set with 76 baguette-cut diamonds for ~0.58 ct STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold deployment

C HA I N

18K red or white gold, 26cm

Limited Edition of 8 timepieces

ATPA001

190

years later, BOVET is preserving the

future of watchmaking’s decorative arts, a field in which many skills were otherwise destined to disappear forever. This heritage and the exceptional expertise built up over two centuries of watchmaking activity are illustrated in the contemporary designs of the House of BOVET, which continues tirelessly to innovate in keeping with tradition. Hand-engravings are therefore present on all movements contained in BOVET timepieces.

The Art of Engraving

Heirs to the expertise of their predecessors

t the dawn of the 19th century, when

specifically for the Middle Empire, the fame

first

of the “Bovets of China”, as they were then

timepieces, he straight away took great pains over

called, spread rapidly to other continents.

their decoration. Cases and movements were

In addition to precious stone setting and

adorned with gems, pearls, miniature paintings

enamel

in Grand Feu enamel, and engravings.

throughout Bovet’s history and every different

Edouard

Bovet

manufactured

his

work,

engraving

omnipresent

technique is mastered and employed. In the The House of BOVET quickly became a

engraving of his movements Edouard Bovet

reference in terms of the decorative arts. Indeed

introduced a hitherto unknown level of

the Emperor of China was one of the earliest

detail. Under his impulse, the decoration of

collectors and today many BOVET timepieces

movements became much more subtle and,

remain part of the priceless heritage of the

in a bold new step, every possible surface

Forbidden City.

was engraved to compose veritable threedimensional masterpieces. The results, both

While the business activities of the House

convincing and original, led Edouard Bovet to

of BOVET had their beginnings in China

reveal his engraved movements to the naked

and Edouard Bovet at the time had the

eye by incorporating the first transparent case-

clear-sightedness to manufacture timepieces

backs in his designs.

and loyal to the history of the House, the artisans employed today by BOVET are able to decorate every part of a timepiece where such work is technically possible, regardless of the chosen motif and engraving technique. Dials, flanges, case-bands, bezels and bows are therefore frequently decorated. BOVET gives every collector the chance to personalize their timepiece with a specific decoration. In terms of engraving, the possibilities of individualizing a timepiece are virtually endless: simple text (name, initials or date), decorative motifs or figurative engravings are just some of the choices and themes available.

he Fleurisanne engraving is the decorative pattern featured most often on

BOVET timepieces of the 19th century. Today, it remains the most sought-after by collectors, whether for decorating a dial, a case, or the bridges of a movement. However, following the example of Edouard Bovet, whose creativity has lost none of its power to impress, Pascal Raffy, the owner of BOVET 1822 and Les Manufactures DIMIER 1738, regularly proposes new ideas.

In 2011 for example, BOVET unveiled timepieces whose cases were engraved in their entirety with the Fleurisanne motif. Since 2012 a chased bris de verre motive embellishes the movements and cases of several unique pieces in the

Grandes Complications collections. It is a motive that appeared on certain movements between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, before falling into disuse. This year Pascal Raffy has decided to resurrect this motive, which accords beautifully with the architecture of contemporary movements, but has chosen to extend its coverage to the entire case. The result is an original design requiring around one hundred hours of work for engraving of the case alone. 190 years after its foundation, the House of BOVET underlines its supremacy in the decorative arts of watchmaking, successfully innovating in perfect harmony with its tradition. A virtuosity greatly appreciated by collectors, since nearly a third of the two thousand or more timepieces manufactured annually by BOVET are unique pieces.

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 44 Butterfly Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

44mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, fully hand-chiseled, 18K white gold

E n g r a v i n g Bow, bezel, lug, case-side and base plates fully hand-chiseled D I AL

Openwork, inner bezel set

with 60 round-cut diamonds for ~0.58 ct

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 110 hours power reserve,

calibre 12BM05

Bridges set with 76 baguette-cut diamonds for for ~0.58 ct

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold deployment

C HA I N

18K white gold, 26cm

ATPA012-C123467-SD5 Unique Piece

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 46 Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes by hands

Hours, quarters and minutes by repeater

D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red or white gold

D I AL

Openwork blackened engraved movement

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 52 hours power reserve,

calibre 12BM06

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red gold or white gold, 26cm

AIRM018

Limited Edition of 8 timepieces

AIRM003

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 46 Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes by hands

Hours, quarters and minutes by repeater

D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold *

D I AL

Blue guilloché with openwork, Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 52 hours power reserve,

calibre 12BM06

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K white gold, 26cm

AIRM006

Limited Edition of 8 timepieces *Available in 18K red gold with a variety of dial selections

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 44 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Triple Time Zone and Automaton

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes , 2nd time zone at 3 o’clock with 24 cities

indication, 3rd time zone at 9 o’clock with 16 cities

indication, hours, quarters and minutes by repeater,

tourbillon, automaton bells

D I A M ETER

44mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

D I AL

Black guilloché with Roman applied numerals,

onyx behind the bells

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 40 hours power reserve,

calibre 12BM09

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold deployment

C HA I N

18K red gold, 26cm

AR3F001 Unique Piece

Witness to a Secret Art BOVET was among the first to elevate the mechanism of timepieces to an art form and maintains that tradition today in a series of spectacular complications devised by the most ingenious minds in modern watchmaking. The Fleurier AMADEOÂŽ Complications include the Retrograde Perpetual Calendars, Jumping Hours and Triple Date with Moon Phase. Each movement is fully decorated at the highest level and honors the artisanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mastery of engineering, finish and precision, revealing mechanical complexity in exquisite detail.

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 42 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, day, retrograde date, month,

leap year and moon phase

D I A M ETER

42mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white or red gold

D I AL

Silver guilloché with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 13BA04-QPR, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shaped opening

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium or red gold plated silver, 26cm

18k gold chain upon request

AQPR014

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 42 Jumping Hours

F U N C T I ONS

Jumping hours, rotating minutes index

D I A M ETER

42mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

D I AL

Openwork with blackened module

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 11BA04-HS, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shaped opening

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AFHS003

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 42 Jumping Hours

F U N C T I ONS

Jumping hours, rotating minutes index

D I A M ETER

42mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

D I AL

Openwork with Fleurisanne engraved module

and openwork with blackened module

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 13BA04-HS, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shaped opening STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AFHS006

AFHS004

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 42 Jumping Hours with a Miniature Painting of a “Lady Hunter”

F U N C T I ONS

Jumping hours, rotating minutes index

D I A M ETER

42mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

SETT I N G

Bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds for ~3.10 cts

Inner bezel set with 59 round-cut diamonds

and one sapphire for ~0.77 ct, 5 sapphires on the crown and strap-bolts

D I AL

Black mother-of-pearl with a miniature painting of a “ Lady Hunter “

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 11BA04-HS, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shaped opening

100

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver chain

18K gold chain upon request

AFHS516-SB1 Unique Piece

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 42 Triple Date

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, day, date, month and moon phase

D I A M ETER

42mm

C ASE Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white or red gold D I AL Silver or black opalin with Roman applied numerals M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA11, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium or red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AQMP002

AQMP004

102

103

Timeless Classics Offerered in a 39mm or 43mm case of 18k red or white gold, the Fleurier AMADEO® collection inspires itself from timepieces that made the reputation of Bovet since the begining of the 19th century. Some of the main characteristics that tie this collection to the prestigious history of BOVET are its crown and bow at 12 o’clock, serpentine hands and the Fleurisanne engraved 22K red gold rotor. Whichever the many versions offered by the Fleurier Amadeo® may be, the collection is characterized by a selfwinding movement with 72 hours power reserve and the easy use of the Amadeo® system to transform your timepiece from a wristwatch to a table clock, pocket watch or pendant without the use of any tools.

105

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 43

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

43mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

EN G RAV I N G

Fleurisanne engraved bow and lug

D I AL

White mother-of-pearl with a miniature painting

of a “Peacock”

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request AF43544-G23 Unique Piece

106

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 43

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve

D I A M ETER

43mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold *

D I AL

Black guilloché with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA12, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AF43033

108

*Available in 18K white gold with a variety of dial selections

109

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 43

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve

D I A M ETER

43mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold *

D I AL

Black polished enamel with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA12, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AF43003

110

*Available in 18K white gold with a variety of dial selections

111

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 43

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve

D I A M ETER

43mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red or white gold

D I AL

Metallic blue or brown circular brushed

with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA12, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold or rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AF43013

AF43006

112

113

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 43

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve

D I A M ETER

43mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red or white gold *

D I AL

Iviry polished enamel with Roman

applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA12, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold or rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AF43001

AF43002

114

115

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold *

SETT I N G

Bow, bezel and lug set with 94 round-cut

diamonds for ~2.11 cts

D I AL

White mother-of-pearl with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA12, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving

116

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

*Available in 18K red gold with a variety of dial selections

AF39022-SD123

117

Of the various techniques still practiced today, it is that which enables the best possible definition of details and is also more shockresistant than enamel. Like the other techniques, enamelled lacquer requires a substantial number of successive firings, according to the complexity of the motif and the number of colours composing it. Nonetheless, these firings do not exceed temperatures of 140°C, thus enabling enamelled lacquer to be applied to a wide range of supports. Mother-of-pearl serves as the décor for the majority of BOVET miniature paintings.

The Art of Miniature Painting

118

Right from the first timepieces to emerge from

The 20th century industrial age sadly brought a

its workshops, BOVET has distinguished itself

decline in the use of decorative arts, to the point

by the extreme finesse of the details in its

where the skills of enamellers and miniature

miniature paintings. Despite the prolific existing

painters almost definitively died out. Only a

range of timepieces thus decorated at the time,

very few succeeded, despite changing trends

Edouard Bovet managed to assert himself

and successive crises, in safeguarding these

through the quality of the paintings he offered.

professions that had so greatly contributed to

Therein doubtless lay the secret of the success

Switzerland’s international recognition for the

achieved among the first clients of the House.

infinitely meticulous approach of its artisans.

The distinguished list includes the Emperor of

BOVET belongs to this highly exclusive circle.

China, and one of the timepieces he acquired in

The painting technique now used by BOVET

the early 19th century still occupies the central

for its miniature paintings is that of enamelled

room of the Forbidden City. The lifelike, highly

lacquer – a practice stemming from those for

realistic depiction of the two swans painted on

which BOVET was famed in its past. It was

the case-back single-handedly accounts for the

developed by one of the artisans working

acclaim earned by Edouard Bovet in a country

exclusively for BOVET and serves to highlight

previously closed to foreign trade.

the qualities of Chinese lacquer.

fter a special treatment, its surface provides the ideal backdrop for a range of infinitely small

details. Coated in a translucent lacquer, the mother-of-pearl reveals the full wealth of its shimmering iridescence. Masked by opaque colours and according to the nature of the graphic design, it composes a miniature marquetry décor. Each dial is unique and provides scope for boundless inspiration nurtured by such varied themes as floral motifs, animals, landscapes, portraits, or reproductions of paintings. The artisan’s work consists in creating or transferring the drawing on a generally five times larger scale and of adapting it to the round shape of the dial, while taking account of the position of the hands and of any potential dial apertures. After approval of this initial procedure, the drawing is then transferred on the correct scale and a first outline is sketched out on the dial, followed by a number of different operations: painting the backgrounds, the décors, with details successively applied colour by colour using an extremely fine marten’s hair brush. Between each operation, the artisan adds a lacquer that fixes in place every detail of each colour. Each of these applications of lacquer must be fired in the kiln and then polished. Once the final layer of lacquer has been applied and fired, the last operation consists in reducing the dial to its final thickness by consistently gentler abrasive movements, before the final polishing that will reveal the full depth of the work. In their eager quest for perfection, the BOVET artisans have developed new techniques associable with enamelled lacquer. Certain dials thus feature details crafted in gold leaf, while in other cases they may be adorned with gold or silver paillons (spangles) that are combined with the lacquer to create a metallic effect. Moreover, since 2011, BOVET has offered combinations of miniature painting and engraving on mother-of-pearl. The extremely large proportion of BOVET timepieces personalised by a miniature painting demonstrates just how strongly customers and collectors associate BOVET with this art. The excellence displayed by BOVET in the field of watchmaking decorative arts has not only contributed to safeguarding skills otherwise threatened with extinction, but has also given them fresh impetus while enabling them to draw ever closer to perfection.

121

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 “Mille Fleurs”

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER 39mm C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

SETT I N G Bow, bezel and lug set with 98 round-cut

diamonds for ~2.67 cts

D I AL Black mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct,

miniature painting of a “Rose”

M OVE M ENT Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shape engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

Red gold plated silver or 18K gold necklace upon request

The client may choose any hand-painted flower

AF39013-SD123-LT02

123

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 “Mille Fleurs”

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

SETT I N G

Bow set with 43 round-cut diamonds for ~0.21 ct

D I AL

Black mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct,

miniature painting of a “Lotus” flower

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shape engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

Red gold plated silver or 18K gold necklace upon request

The client may choose any hand-painted flower

AF39013-SD2-LT01

125

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 “Mille Fleurs”

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

SETT I N G

Bow, bezel and lug set with 98 round-cut

diamonds for ~2.67 cts

D I AL

White mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct,

miniature painting of a “Peony”

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shape engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

Rhodium plated silver or 18K gold necklace upon request

The client may choose any hand-painted flower

AF39010-SD123-LT02

127

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 “Mille Fleurs”

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white gold

SETT I N G

Bow, bezel and lug set with 43 round-cut

diamonds for ~0.21ct

D I AL

White mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct,

miniature painting of a “Begonia”

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne shape engraving STRAP

AF39010-SD2-LT03

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

Rhodium plated silver or 18K gold necklace upon request

The client may choose any hand-painted flower

129

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 With Miniature Painting

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K red gold

D I AL

White mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct

and miniature painting such as a “Butterfly” or a “Dragon”

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

The client may choose any hand-painted subject (i.e a flower, a butterfly, initials...)

AF39003-LT “Pink Butterfly”

AF39003-LT “Dragon”

130

131

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 Joaillerie “Rose”

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white or red gold

SETT I N G

Bow, bezel and lug set with 227 round-cut

diamonds for ~1.71 ct

Crown and strap-bolts set with 5 briollettes diamonds for ~ 0.50 ct

D I AL

Black or white mother-of-pearl dial with

12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct, rose set with

110 round-cut diamonds for ~ 0.35 ct

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving

132

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium plated silver or red gold, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

OPT I ONS

Pearl Bracelet : 80 pearls (∅5mm) and 24 18K gold beads each

set with 44 diamonds for ~4.75 cts and 18K gold deployment buckle

Pearl Necklace : 140 pearls (∅ 5mm) and 24 18K gold beads each

set with 44 diamonds for ~6.16 cts

AF39801-SD12

AMADEO ® FLEURIER 39 Guilloché

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes

D I A M ETER

39mm

C ASE

Amadeo® convertible system, 18K white or red gold

D I AL

Black or white mother-of-pearl guilloché with

12 diamond indexes for ~0.22 ct.

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 72 hours power reserve (3 days),

calibre 11BA13, 22K red gold oscillating weight

with Fleurisanne engraving

134

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

C HA I N

Rhodium or red gold plated silver, 26cm

18K gold chain upon request

AF39024-SD123

135

Unique Decorative Arts Presented in 2011 in a 40mm case, the Château de Môtiers Collection displays the traditional bows and crowns at 12 o’clock that are the most distinctive signs of its allegiance to the BOVET style. This year, the Collection embraces femininity with the appearance of cases in 28mm and 32mm diameters. The latter offer possibilities for the personalisation most prized by collectors, namely miniature painting, which here takes up only a portion of the dial.

137

Ch芒teau de M么tiers Fleurier 40mm

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes, seconds, date

D I A M ETER

40mm

C ASE

18K red or white gold

SETT I N G

Bow and bezel set with 109 round-cut diamonds for ~1.31ct

HMS054

(HMS057-SD12)

138

D I AL

Black or white polished enamel with Roman applied numerals

and date window

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 42 hours power reserve,

calibre 11BA13

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

HMS057-SD12

HMS055

139

Château de Môtiers

H32WA079-SD2-LT01

Fleurier 32mm

F U N C T I ONS

Hours and minutes, seconds

D I A M ETER

32mm

C ASE

18K red or white gold

SETT I N G

Bow set with 23 round-cut diamonds for ~0.16ct

(H32RA080-SD2-LT02 D I AL

White or black mother-of-pearl with 12 diamonds for ~0.10ct

and “Totem” miniature painting

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, 42 hours power reserve,

calibre 11BA13

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

H32RA080-SD2-LT02

140

H32WA079-SD-LT03

Two Legends One Iconic Partnership A

legitimate

source

national

pride,

Italian

design

is acknowledged and appreciated around the world for the elegance and the ultimate refinement it embodies. Pininfarina, a flagship exponent of this activity, celebrated its 80th anniversary in 2010. Eight decades in which Pininfarina has punctuated its career with creations featuring flowing lines that have contributed to defining an unmistakable style and a modern aesthetic that has inspired dreams and a delightful sense of escapism among successive generations. From the first sketches released in 1930 to the empire it has now become, the Turin-based group has steadily grown its reputation through collaborating with the automobile, nautical and aeronautical fields. Despite its constant diversification of its activities, Pininfarina had never previously cooperated with the world of Fine Watchmaking.

142

OTTANTA Big Date Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, sectorial seconds indicated by rotating crown,

big date, power reserve, reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes,

80 seconds tourbillon

Di a m e t e r

46mm

Case

Amadeo速 convertible system, Titanuim (G5) and stainless steel

coated with or without DLC treatment

Di a l

Transparent crystal with metal axis

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding, min. 80 hours power reserve,

calibre 16BA01, Platinum 950 micro-rotor

Strap

Rubber with alcantara interior

B uck l e

Titanium (G5) ardillon

C HA I N

Titanium (G5), 26cm

Limited Edition of 80 movements

TPIN003

TPIN001

145

othing could more worthily symbolise this jubilee than a

prestigious timepiece. Building on this assumption and after having drawn up a demanding and comprehensive set of specifications, Paolo Pininfarina, President and CEO of Pininfarina Extra, set out five years ago in search of the ideal partner. This challenge was on a par with the ambitious scope of the project, and it was thus essential to find among the select circle of Haute Horlogerie manufacturers a House with a history and identity to match the prestige of Pininfarina and capable of successfully handling this complex project in record time. The initial design as well as the entire development and production process for this exclusive new 514-part calibre was entrusted to DIMIER 1738. It is housed within a convertible case serving to wear the timepiece on the wrist while displaying either of its two sides, to associate the case with a titanium chain for use as a pocket watch, or to transform the timepiece into a table clock. As well as providing a traditional display of the hours and minutes, a reversed hand-fitting bearing a single hand enables the hours, half-hours and quarter-hours to be read off on the other side of the movement.

The tourbillon performs

revolution in exactly 80 seconds.

a complete

146

The

energy required to drive the two barrels of this movement is supplied by an off-centered bidirectional micro-rotor in platinum.

n tribute to the 80th anniversary of Pininfarina,

The upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage bears

the movement design engineers of DIMIER 1738,

a hand that naturally does not display the

Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale

seconds but rather runs over eight segments

have created a tourbillon performing a complete

representing as many decades in the history of

revolution in exactly 80 seconds, whereas the

Pininfarina by referring to the eight emblematic

latter generally lasts one minute. To achieve this,

Pininfarina

the technicians created an intersection in the

circumference of the case middle. The overall

going train. Beyond the third wheel, the going

poising of the mechanism is ensured by special

train is divided into two separate reduction

Pininfarina screws.

phrases

engraved

around

the

trains: one supplying the seconds crown which

148

makes one turn in three minutes, while the other

Since the tourbillon carriage does not carry the

specially calculated one transmits its energy to

seconds hand, another original solution was

the tourbillon carriage in such a way that it takes

found. Here again, significant research was

80 sec. to make each of its rotations. A solution

conducted and resulting in developing a crown

that proves both simple and ingenious.

concentric with the tourbillon carriage.

n acknowledged expert in the art of

enhancing material and volumes, the Pininfarina design studio suggested using the broadest possible palette of various shades of grey. To achieve the aura of ultimate refinement adorning this model, the engineers and artisans of DIMIER 1738 used 56 samples of different decorations and treatment colours. The ultimate detail

symbolising

the

virtuosity

the

DIMIER 1738 artisans lies in the surfaces on either side of the tourbillon carriage, which are decorated with a bipolar circular Clous de Paris hobnail motif – a feat that had thus far been regarded as impossible.

he latter, measuring 18mm in diameter, would

Setting the final touch to this perfect symmetry,

Eight emblematic phrases, each reflecting one of

have made for tricky reading by turning in one

the big date appears at 6 o’clock on two

the decades in Pininfarina’s history and signed

minute – too fast to have time to comfortably read

concentric discs. The latter mechanism also

by Mr. Pininfarina himself, have been engraved

off the numerals appearing through the aperture.

involved the ingenuity of the movement design

around the rim of the case middle.

engineers and technicians of DIMIER 1738, since The carriage thus rotates in three minutes over

the fast date adjustment may be performed at

Adding the final touch to this anthology of

seven ruby runners that keep the friction coefficient

any given moment, whatever the time shown by

horological expertise, the dial is composed of an

to an absolute minimum. Making it called for

the hands. This is a highly appreciable security

anthracite grey brass inner bezel ring along with

cutting-edge technology in order to ensure that

feature for such a complex horological gem.

a rock crystal plate revealing, in addition to the overall movement, the power reserve hand and

its planarity and concentricity could be kept

150

within 2µm tolerances. Moreover, so as to reduce

Working in close cooperation with the Pininfarina

the balance adorned with the exact same shade

friction and a considerable loss of amplitude,

designers, the constructors in the Research

of blue as the Pininfarina logo.

a special surface treatment was applied, thereby

& Development department of DIMIER 1738

optimising

performances.

created an exterior and a “ motorisation” that

Only eighty numbered Ottanta® Tourbillon

In addition to displaying central hour and

merge into a single and coherent whole – thereby

movements have been handcrafted and housed

minute hands, the seconds and the tourbillon

rising to the imposing challenge of giving the

within three different case versions.

at 3 o’clock, the timepiece provides a pointer-

overall result both readability and depth despite

type power reserve indication at 9 o’clock.

the extreme complexity of the movement.

the

tribological

151

OTTANTA DUE 7-Day Tourbillon with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon, power reserve,

reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo速 convertible system, 18K red gold

Di a l

Openwork

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 14BM03AI

Strap

Rubber with suede interior

B uck l e

18k red gold ardillon

C HA I N

18k red gold, 26cm

Limited Edition of 82 timepieces

TPIND001

152

153

The

geometry of this dial, the fact that it is secured by two visible screws, as well as its colouring, contribute to its

he OttantaDue is named because it is the second tourbillon

in the Pininfarina collection and was presented in the year of Pininfarinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 82nd anniversary in 2012. Once again, this timepiece stems from an exclusive development. Aesthetically speaking, OttantaDue echoes the signature features of its forerunner. The design of the bow, the two flat bezels, the shape of the hands and the rubber strap firmly define this elegant and sporty collection. Again, the watchmakers of the Manufacture DIMIER 1738 have focused on enhancing the volumes of the movements by offering a variety of surface-state and colour combinations. Like all the tourbillon movements crafted by DIMIER 1738, this version is powered by a twin barrel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a formula serving to guarantee 7-day power reserve and to maintain the oscillations of the balance at the high frequency of 21,600vph compared with the traditional 18,000vph for this type of movement. In addition to these performances, the two barrels offer the advantage of supplying far more constant force, whatever their degree of wind.

154

harmonious

integration

by uniting the movement and exterior components within a

strong

and consistent entity.

The

OttantaDue follows the same aesthetic blueprint as its predecessor : design of the bow, flat bezels, shape of the hands and rubber strap.

ore pared-down than its predecessor

Given that this timepiece is housed within an

in terms of the number of its functions and

Amadeo® type case, the latter is convertible

indications, the movement of the OttantaDue

into a table clock, a pocket watch as well as a

Tourbillon model nonetheless clearly picks up

reversible wristwatch. The latter option reveals

all the main aesthetic codes, despite the many

the other face of the timepiece and its three-

differences with the original. The tourbillon

quarter plate that echoes the bipolar circular

carriage is located at 6 o’clock and performs

Clous de Paris hobnail motif that was specially

each of its revolutions in one minute, which

developed for the Ottanta® Tourbillon. The

enables the seconds hand to be placed on its

reversed hand-fitting displays the hours and

upper pivot. The design of the tourbillon bridges

minutes on an off-centered dial that avoids

and that of the balance rim or felly are strictly

obscuring the transparency of the tourbillon

identical, while optimal balance and symmetry

carriage and of the openworked movement.

are ensured by the power reserve display that complements the indications spread along the vertical axis of the timepiece. 157

OTTANTATRE 5-Day Tourbillon Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Fu n c t i o n s

Jumping Hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve coaxial indicators,

seconds on tourbillon, reversed hand-fitting hours and minutes

Di a m e t e r

44mm

Case

AmadeoÂŽ convertible system, 18K red goldâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;

Di a l

Openwork

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 16BM3AI-HSMR

Strap

Rubber with suede interior

B uck l e

18K red or white gold ardillon

C HA I N

18K red or white gold, 26cm

Limited Edition of 83 movements

TPINT001

158

159

he 2013 edition of the BOVET Collection

Throughout the 20th century, watchmakers

by Pininfarina is named OttantaTre. This fourth

became accustomed to developing movements

creation in the line brings the third tourbillon

including

in the Collection, in the 83 anniversary year of

complications – and then creating the exteriors

the Italian design house – making its name an

in a second phase. BOVET watchmakers and

entirely logical and natural choice. Tradition and

DIMIER do the exact opposite by entirely

avant-garde vision, technical sophistication and

designing each new creation before finding the

craftsmanship, design and Haute Horlogerie :

technical solutions to achieve the desired result.

such are the apparently antagonistic criteria

This choice, which entails far more constraints

that BOVET and DIMIER have succeeded in

for the constructors, nonetheless guarantees

orchestrating into an entirely consistent whole.

the unique balance and coherence of BOVET

the

desired

functions

and

timepieces. The 12 o’clock positioning of the crown and bow, along with the Amadeo® system, mean

On the OttantaTre Tourbillon, the hours are

that even a quick glance is enough to identify

displayed in the center of the timepiece.

it as a BOVET timepiece, while the flat bezels,

The jumping-hour numerals on the disc are

the black cylindrical crown and the black

literally cut out from the latter. When the hour

rubber strap immediately confirm that the

numeral to be displayed reaches its aperture,

OttantaTre Tourbillon belongs to the Collection

it places itself above a super-luminova dot

by Pininfarina.

that lights up the time. The minute and power reserve indicator hands share the same axis as

Since Pascal Raffy and his teams wished to give

the hour disc, and each travels across a segment

a new interpretation to reading the time, they

of a circle where its respective indication is

developed and manufactured a tourbillon

displayed in an original way. 24 times a day, the

movement with jumping hours and retrograde

hour disc and the minute hand begin a new hour

minutes.

cycle by an instant jump.

161

architecture gives pride of place to transparency and is structured around straight The mechanical

lines forming a taut, angular whole.

hand

minutes via two conventional hands. That means

appearing on the upper pivot of the tourbillon

there are five distinct indications sharing the

carriage, all the indications are positioned along

same axis and spread across the two faces of

the vertical axis of the timepiece, further under-

this timepiece. A particularly remarkable feat,

scoring the perfect symmetry of its movement.

especially in that this impressive concentration

The

has not made this new calibre unduly thick.

omplemented

tensions

this

the

seconds

distinctive

geometry

are resolved in the curves of the case, testifying to the brilliant ability to â&#x20AC;&#x153;square the

Available in red gold or white gold versions,

circleâ&#x20AC;? demonstrated in equal measure by the

the OttantaTre Tourbillon is issued in an

Pininfarina designers and by the watchmakers

83-movement Limited Edition in each gold

of BOVET and DIMIER.

colour, all of which are liable to swiftly find an honourable place among the most prestigious

Clothed in a case incorporating the convertible

collections.

AmadeoÂŽ system, the second face of the OttantaTre Tourbillon indicates the hours and 163

CAMBIANO Chronograph

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date,

chronograph with central seconds, 30 minutes counter

at 9 o’clock, 12 hours counter at 3 o’clock

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, stainless steel*

Case-band: satin finished steel bezel

Support & bow: ball-milled steel with black DLC coating Di a l

Metallic black or anthracite colour treated, 37 components on five

separate levels, chamfered and hand-polished with a brushed

satin finish surface

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding chronograph, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 13BA08

Strap

Rubber with alcantara interior

B uck l e Stainless steel

CHPIN002

CHPIN001

*Available in a sand-blasted stainless steel case

164

165

CAMBIANO CAMBIANO Chronograph

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date,

chronograph with central seconds, 30 minutes counter

at 9 o’clock, 12hours counter at 3 o’clock

Di a m e t e r

45mm

Case

Amadeo® convertible system, stainless steel

Case-band: sand-blasted steel bezel

Support & bow: ball-milled steel Di a l

Rhodium-plated with solid oak counters sourced from the pillars

on which Venice is built

M OVE M ENT

Self-winding chronograph, 48 hours power reserve,

calibre 13BA08

Strap

Rubber lined with leather

CHPIN010

B uck l e Stainless steel

Limited Edition of 80 movements

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Power and Strength The SPORTSTER case creatively adapts BOVET’s own Art Déco pocket watch, with its geometrically angled bow, by bringing it to the wrist and adding high-performance movement. Also recalled among the SPORTSTER models are the traditional serpentine hands in blued, polished, or rose gold color, the Art Déco inspired numerals, and the retro style two-counter chronograph. The edgy Saguaro® three-counter chronograph line with a 46mm diameter is offered for a more robust appeal in stainless steel, or 18K red gold with enamel and meteorite dials.

169

SPORT STER Chronograph Saguaro

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, big date,

chronograph with central seconds, 30 minutes counter

at 9 o’clock, 12 hours counter at 3 o’clock

Di a m e t e r

46mm

C a s e Stainless steel or 18K red gold Di a l

Carbon fiber with white mother-of-pearl counters and Art Déco applied numerals M OVE M ENT Self-winding chronograph, 42 hours power reserve, calibre 13BA01 Strap Rubber B uck l e Stainless steel or 18K red gold ardillon

SP0445-MA

170

171

SPORT STER Chronograph Saguaro

Fu n c t i o n s

Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, big date,

chronograph with central seconds, 30 minutes counter

at 9 o’clock, 12 hours counter at 3 o’clock

Di a m e t e r

46mm

C a s e Stainless steel or 18K red gold Di a l

Black opalin with black carbon fiber counters and 5N Art Déco applied numerals M OVE M ENT Self-winding chronograph, 42 hours power reserve, calibre 13BA01 Strap Rubber B uck l e Stainless steel or 18K red gold ardillon

SP0418-MA

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Alliance of Magnificence and Precision With its crown at 3 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, the DIMIER timepiece is manufactured in complete discretionary quantities, developed, constructed and crafted in BOVETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale, DIMIER 1738. Through its beauty, its technical prowess and the search for perfection down to the smallest detail that inspired its talented creators, a DIMIER timepiece is much more than an exceptional timepiece. It is a precision timepiece, refined in every detail, a virtuoso work and an authentic expression of genuine luxury.

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DIMIER Récital 10 7-Day Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes and seconds on the tourbillon

D I A M ETER

45mm

C ASE

18K white or red gold

Di a l

Blackened circular Côtes de Genève with Roman applied numerals

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 15BM03

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

Limited Edition of 50 timepieces

DTR10-45WG-000-BA

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he origins of the inspiration of the Récital 0

While, as one has come to expect from DIMIER

are clearly spread between the two muses

watchmakers, each detail of each component

of this ultimate Récital model. The dial, the

is decorated in accordance with BOVET’s

hands and the indications are from Récital 1,

specific aesthetic and quality criteria, it is the

while the tourbillon carriage and the already

discretion and understatement of this Récital 10

emblematic shape of its bridges come from

Tourbillon that most vividly express its qualities.

Récital 0. Observing the movement through the

The emotion conveyed through each BOVET

sapphire crystal case-back provides proof that

timepiece leads Pascal Raffy to say that they are

the noblest expression of this fusion stems from

made to be experienced. The enchanting, almost

a full-fledged new development. The centrings

human and vibrant expression of the face of this

of the two barrels and of the going train are

Récital 10 certainly confirms this reality more

spread between two bridges that occupy an

powerfully than ever.

equal surface on the upper part of the mainplate. The design of one of them evokes the Récital 1

The indications are distinctly laid out to enhance

movement, and that of the other is reminiscent

readability. The central hours and minutes are

of Récital 0. Their respective outlines form two

displayed by the House’s legendary pair of

wings united in the centre of the movement

serpentine hands. The identically shaped power

and which literally send the airy, feather-light

reserve hand at 12 o’clock marks off the 7-day

tourbillon soaring to heights of elegance and

autonomy on an exquisitely rimmed circular

refinement.

indicator.

179

he symmetry, the balance and the proportions

must indeed be experienced in order to appreciate their extreme perfection. Another subtle symbol of this fusion lies in the seamless integration of the arms of the upper carriage bridge – stemming from Récital 0 – within the perfect cut-out shape of the dial borrowed from Récital 1. The finely bevelled edges of these two elements are aligned with a precision that only a human hand could achieve. The contrasting colours and finishes between the two components sublimates each of them and at the same time contributes to achieving harmony between the two original inspirations. Finally, the circular Côtes de Genève adorning the dial radiates out from the tourbillon axis rather than from the centre of the timepiece itself. After checking the time that is indicated, the gaze is naturally drawn by this concentric layout to the very heart and soul of the timepiece : the centre of the tourbillon which smiles at the collector in an infinitely appealing manner – once again confirming that this new interpretation by Pascal Raffy and his teams effectively celebrates the perfect juxtaposition between fine craftsmanship and technical sophistication, as well as between historical heritage and innovative future. 180

fine craftsmanship and technical sophistication, as well as historical heritage and innovative future. ...

DIMIER RĂŠcital 9 Miss Alexandra 7-Day Tourbillon with Moon Phase indicator

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, moon phase and power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

41mm x 37.2mm

C ASE

18K white or red gold

s e t t i n g Bezel set with 60 round-cut diamonds for ~1.00 ct Side case and lugs chiseled M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 15BM01-PL

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

DTR9-WG-0B0-C1

182

183

DIMIER RĂŠcital 9 Miss Alexandra 7-Day Tourbillon with Moon Phase indicator

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, moon phase and power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

41mm x 37.2mm

C ASE

18K red or white gold

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 15BM01-PL

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon

DTR9-RG-000-C1

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185

his new timepiece clearly proclaims its sense

The seconds hand, which normally appears

of belonging to the Dimier Collection, despite a

on the upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage,

number of innovations and an array of resolutely

is exceptionally replaced in this model by

feminine aesthetic codes.

a diamond featuring facets which, as they rotate, send sparks of light playing across the

Its movement provides the finest response to the

shimmering polished surfaces of the movement.

specific nature of woman’s demands, which often

Hours and minutes are displayed by new central

imply making compromises. The main key to this

hands specially designed for the Récital 9

success lies in the size of the movement. The latter

Miss Alexandra Tourbillon. The mystery of

is at once small enough to elegantly embrace the

their unusual shape is revealed every hour,

daintiest feminine wrist; and, when sufficiently

when the minutes hand comes to rest on top

wound, large enough to supply a full 7-day

of the hours hand and their combined shapes

operating autonomy to the tourbillon – of which

form a heart…

the precision is further enhanced by its balance beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

The upper part of the vertical axis of this

Like the other DIMIER calibres introduced

timepiece offers a lyrical interpretation of one of

since 2011, the movement of the Récital 9,

the horological complications most favoured by

Miss Alexandra Tourbillon is built between two

women: moon phases. The moon phase display

three-quarter plates. Alongside the technical

has been entirely rethought to present a face that

advantages of such a construction, it offers a

is as realistic as possible. The exact cartography

generous space for the tourbillon carriage. This

of an entire moon face has been engraved on

in turn means that the diameter of the tourbillon

a mirror-polished steel plate, and the hollows

carriage and of the balance, as well as the latter’s

of this engraving have been meticulously filled

inertia, may be increased to as to achieve even

with a luminescent substance.

better precision timing results. More than ever, the large bridges of the tourbillon carriage treat observers to a delightful smile-like effect.

187

n anthem to femininity, the Récital 9 Miss

Alexandra Tourbillon is the first timepiece by BOVET 1822 to be graced with an oval-shaped case. At 41mm long and 37.5mm across, its size and proportions ensure optimal comfort while exalting feminine beauty. The concern for perfection of details is a given when it comes to developing a new BOVET timepiece. It is vividly revealed here in the fact that the usual corrector for adjusting the moon phase doesn’t appear along the case-side but is located on the crown – thus ensuring that the case-side remains delightfully pure, while avoiding any potential water resistance issues and also meaning that the moon phase can be rapidly adjusted without resorting to tools.

innovations and an array of resolutely feminine aesthetic codes. The Dimier Collection, despite a number of

The aesthetic success of this timepiece doubtless lies in the fact that the sophisticated engineering, the multiple technological accomplishments and the daunting complexity of its movement fade gracefully into the background so as to

give pride of place to visual magic and poetry.

he sky surrounding the moon is then engraved on a blue

uncluttered readability and elegance, the DIMIER watchmakers

PVD-treated nickel silver plate that thus appears to be naturally

achieved the feat of placing the power reserve on the same axis as

studded with stars. To enable more intuitive reading, the traditional

the moon phase. The power reserve hand is thus fixed to its pivot

crescent-shaped aperture has been done away with.

below the moon motif. Only its far end can be seen protruding

The Récital 9 Miss Alexandra Tourbillon is destined to honour timeless love – symbolised by the heart formed by the hands and the diamond – while flying the wearer to the moon.

from the outer edge of the moon phase sky background. The arc Instead, the moon remains in a fixed position and two pallets

of a circle over which the indicator travels creates a symmetrical

featuring the same finish as the sky serve to cover the moon and

balance with the bridges of the tourbillon carriage.

thus show its age. The power reserve indicator is also presented in an original manner and appears to be mysteriously rising from the moon-phase sky. To reach this goal of cleverly combining 188

189

DIMIER RĂŠcital 8 7-Day Tourbillon Orbis Mundi ÂŽ

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, second time zone,

(hours and minutes), city indicator, day and night indicator,

power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

48mm

C ASE

18K red or white gold

Di a l

Openwork, rock cystal and onyx, mother-of-pearl sub dials

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve,

calibre 13BM07-OM (blackened)

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K red or white gold ardillon DTR8-RG-000-W3

190

191

DIMIER RĂŠcital 5 5-Day Tourbillon Big Date

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, big date,

power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

46mm

C ASE

18K white or red gold

Di a l

Openwork, brass with onyx counter and rock cystal

M OVE M ENT

Hand-wound, 5-day power reserve,

calibre 13BM02-GD

STRAP

Hand-stitched, full skin alligator

B U C K LE

18K white or red gold ardillon

DTR5-WG-000-BA

192

193

he entirely coherent nature of the Récital 5 Tourbillon in the

DIMIER collection stems from the fact that it delivers on each of these demands. Reliability is notably achieved by the constant energy supplied by the two barrels, which also determine the remarkable precision-timing results by enabling the balance and spring assembly to oscillate at a frequency of 21,600vph for five full days. The one-minute revolutions performed by the tourbillon release the latter from the detrimental influence of gravity on the movement rate when the timepiece is in a vertical position. A closer look at the Récital 5 Tourbillon shows that the information

appears according to a logical order. The hours and minute are offcentred in the upper right-hand section of the movement and are thus the first two indications perceived – followed by the seconds featuring a triple hand borne by the upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage and distinctly displayed on a graduated sector at 6 o’clock. The gaze is thus naturally drawn towards the upper left-hand part of the dial, which is occupied by the large date mechanism and display. Finally, the power reserve indicator completes the aesthetic balance by appearing at 12 o’clock.

195

he sapphire crystal case-back reveals the

intricacies of the openworked gear-train bridge which itself opens onto further details such as the openworked and sunburst centre wheel, along with the various movement parts of the going train. The surface decoration is both traditional and innovative. The traditionally circular-grained mainplate is in this instance circular satinbrushed to create an even more elegant contrast with the circular Côtes de Genève adorning the bridge and radiating from the centre of the tourbillon. The bevelled steel parts and flame-blued screws set the ultimate touch to these impeccable finishes.

he date corrector could have been placed as close as possible to its mechanism

The system developed to display the large date

as is generally the case. However, the corrector lever actually circumvents

cleverly superimposes the tens star wheel over

the power reserve indicator as well as the hand-fitting so that the push-piece finds a

the units disc, a construction resulting in an

convenient and ergonomic place on the right of the case middle between the crown

oversized date combined with a minimally sized

and the upper lug. So as to ensure that no inadvertent adjustment can be made, the

mechanism and serving to avoid any unattractive

push-piece offers a certain resistance and is protected by a guard located between

separation between the tens and units.

the push-piece and the crown. Finally, the traditional construction of the DIMIER Collection cases with their four lugs enabled the constructors of this timepiece to provide a viewpoint thus far reserved exclusively for watchmakers. The tourbillon carriage is generally visible from above through the dial and the mainplate. A sapphire carriage placed at 6 o’clock between the lugs provides a side view serving to appreciate the full complexity of the tourbillon carriage.

196

197

DIMIER RĂŠcital 0 41 mm, 7-Day Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

41mm

C ASE

18K white or red gold Available with baguette-cut diamond set bezel Mirror-polished openwork, inner bezel set with 9 round-cut diamonds for ~0.5ct or with 45 round-cut diamonds for ~0.28ct Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre DM1501 Hand-stitched, full skin alligator 18K white or red gold ardillon

Di a l M OVE M ENT STRAP B U C K LE

DTR0-41WG-DB0-M1

199

DIMIER RĂŠcital 0 41 mm, 7-Day Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

41mm

C ASE

18K white or red gold Available with baguette-cut diamond set bezel Chiseled openwork, inner bezel set with 45 round-cut diamonds for ~0.28ct Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre DM1501 Hand-stitched, full skin alligator 18K white or red gold ardillon

Di a l M OVE M ENT STRAP B U C K LE

DTR0-41WG-D00-C1

200

201

DIMIER RĂŠcital 0 45mm, 7-Day Tourbillon

F U N C T I ONS

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power reserve indicator

D I A M ETER

45mm

C ASE

18K red or white gold Available with baguette-cut diamond set bezel Mirror-polished openwork Hand-wound, 7-day power reserve, calibre DM1501 Hand-stitched, full skin alligator 18K red or white gold ardillon

Di a l M OVE M ENT STRAP B U C K LE

DTR0-45RG-000-M1

202

203

lthough this is the 8th model in this collection, this particular

one bears the code-name “0” because of the similarity of its indications to those of the Récital 1 model. It embodies a return to essentials and to the fundamental values of the tourbillon exactly as Pascal Raffy wished for when he entrusted the task to the watchmakers and the constructors of DIMIER 1738. Research & Development primarily focused on the movement architecture by introducing a three-quarter mainplate that optimizes the rigidity of the movement. As an authentic Manufacture de

Haute Horlogerie Artisanale, or manufacturer of handcrafted fine watchmaking, DIMIER 1738 has the knowledge required to handcraft and assemble this kind of calibre. The transparent space provided by the mainplate creates a radiant “skylight ”, with the tourbillon appearing to be levitating at its heart. The effect is accentuated by a generous 13.5mm carriage diameter amounting to almost half the overall diameter of this calibre. The absence of a dial gives pride of place to the shape of the bridges, which is in this case particularly sophisticated. They are openworked so as to give even more volume to this movement and to reveal the various moving parts driving it. In keeping with traditional Fine Watchmaking aesthetic criteria, the design of the two tourbillon bridges is more complex than it first seems. Highlighting the brilliant virtuosity of the DIMIER 1738 bevellers, their rounded-off shape welcomes the gaze of those discovering this timepiece with its appealing “ smile ”. 205

...the studs serving as hour-markers

machined directly from the case-middle and delicately complement the transparency

have been

characterising this Récital 0.

he timepiece has been conceived, designed

and developed as a whole and thus forms a unique, harmonious and consistent entity. The four stepped lugs, the position of the crown at 3 o’clock and the external appearance of the case, are all characteristic of the DIMIER collection. The secret of the harmony lies in the casing-up, the links between the movement, which make the case appear like a natural extension of the movement. The inner bezel ring, machined from the case middle and the bezel for the 41mm model stands out in all its glowing splendour to leave space for the tourbillon carriage and thus to magnify the latter’s revolutions. The movement seems to be suspended at the centre of the 45mm case. In the upper half of the inner bezel ring, the studs serving as hourmarkers have been machined directly from the case-middle and delicately complement the transparency characterising this Récital 0.

207

The bridges are carefully cut out and entirely hand-engrave a

chiseled

chased motif that creates a brilliantly radiant effect.

umerous variations of this model are

create a prestigious and exclusive finish.

offered in order to ensure that each collector

Black ruthenium is offered in addition to the

finds in it a reflection of his or her personality.

traditional white rhodium.

The two respective 41mm and 45mm case diameters have already been mentioned and

Finally, the Récital 0 takes on a universal and

are available in 18K red or white gold with

unanimously acknowledged artistic dimension

an optional baguette-cut diamond-set bezel.

when the mainplate and the bridges are

The inner bezel rings of the 41mm cases may

entrusted to the expert hands of the DIMIER 1738

be adorned with a choice of 9 or 45 brilliant-cut

engravers. The latter carefully cut out and

diamonds.

entirely hand-engrave a “ chiseled ” or “ chased ” motif that creates a brilliantly radiant effect.

The movement also comes in different variations,

The tourbillon bridges are also adorned with this

thereby multiplying the range of available

splendid garment of light that lends an original

versions of this Récital 0 Tourbillon. Particular

and innovative touch epitomising the extraor-

care has been lavished on the treatment

dinary care devoted to each and every detail.

of the surfaces, which are beadblasted to 208

An enduring watchmaking legend Switzerland has mastered the art of watchmaking for over two centuries, largely due to the impetus of certain exceptional individuals. The great names of Swiss watchmaking have been forged by men endowed with inventive genius or innate business acumen. Over several generations, these firms have drawn upon their family resources in pursuing their development, but in cases where the lineage has been interrupted they have often needed to call upon external talents to ensure their survival. It is undoubtedly this new blood that has enabled watch companies founded in the 18th and 19th centuries to achieve the flourishing health they currently enjoy.

211

wo centuries after Edouard Bovet, Pascal

this

the purpose of a timepiece is to stir emotions in

phenomenon. Four successive generations of

response to a new aesthetic impression. But if

the Bovet family headed the company after its

originality is to be truly valuable, it must be based

magnifying the watchmaking decorative arts.

creation in 1822 by Edouard Bovet, himself

on meticulous workmanship executed with

The maxim that accompanied the certificates of

the son of a watchmaker. But when the Bovets

genuine passion. Originality also implies risk-

origin at the dawn of the 20th century is also as

gave up watchmaking, the name they had

taking. Like other adventurers, Edouard Bovet

relevant as ever and admirably exemplified in the

created was too precious to simply vanish.

was a visionary when he set his sights on the

most complicated timepiece certified to date by

Other watchmakers took up the reins in order to

Far East and discovered that his timepieces

the Fleurier Quality Foundation.

OVET

classic

example

perpetuate the tradition. Today, over a century and

fascinated art connoisseurs even on the other

a half after the firm was established by Edouard

side of the world. This belief in the universal

Bovet, Pascal Raffy, owner of BOVET 1822 and

nature of good taste has re-established the

DIMIER 1738, has given it a fresh boost in order

name of BOVET among a circle of devotees

to ensure the future of one of the great Swiss

who appreciate the finest interpretations of the

watchmaking legends. In the BOVET tradition,

watchmaking art.

Raffy is perpetuating peerless expertise by

maistres Pour servir ponctuels gentilshommes Ce par quoy attestons longue valeurâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;* Faictes de mains de

s Rising Star Tourbillon, certified FQF

* Made by the hand of masters, to serve punctual gentlemen, which attest our core values 212

213

ach Haute Horlogerie watch is like a musical score, stemming from a subtly orchestrated

association of musicians with complementary talents. At the end of the day, it is these performers who make the difference, and only the finest watchmakers are able to achieve a perfect creation. BOVET delights the most demanding connoisseurs, particularly in the field of the decorative arts which are to be found in the aesthetic of a finely engraved movement, the alignment of a sparkling gem-set motif, or the glow of a painted miniature. Each new model aims to offer the very best of the work of contemporary artists. Although the present constantly refers to norms inherited from the past, the measurement of time naturally involves anticipating the future. The main challenge facing BOVET watchmakers today consists in continuing to produce timepieces according to the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historical criteria, while adjusting them to inflexible technical and quality norms. Some timepieces have thus entailed recreating virtually extinct hand craftsmanship techniques. All of which means that contemporary BOVET timepieces share with their pocket-watch forerunners a personality that never fails to impress.

214

BOVET enjoys international expansion At the end of the 18th century, England had become the worldwide centre of the watch industry. The English navy, which ruled the waves at that time, together with the rapidly expanding maritime trade, called for high precision timepieces for efficient navigation. In 1815, it was thus to London, the international watch industry capital, that Swiss watchmaker Jean Frédéric Bovet sent three of his five sons. Edouard, who was later to found the BOVET company and who was only 18 years old at the time of the move, immediately attracted the attention of his boss thanks to his quick-witted intelligence. Three years later, he set out for Canton with a set of precious watches. Upon his arrival, he sold four watches to a mandarin for the incredible sum of 10,000 Swiss francs, the equivalent of 1 million dollars in today’s terms – a deal that revealed his considerable commercial talent as well as the huge market potential. Together with his two other brothers settled in London, Alphonse and Frédéric, and his third brother Gustave, a watchmaker in Fleurier, Edouard Bovet created the BOVET watch company in 1822. The first timepieces were made in London under this brothers’ supervision, while he handled sales.

Fleurier, the “garden of Swiss watchmaking”

Production was soon transferred to Fleurier, where working conditions were better. It was during this period that the youngest brother, Charles-Henri, also joined the company.

The town was thus named by the Romans after

The Fleurisans – as the local population was

the spring flowers adorning the banks of the

known – were the first to take their precious

three streams that flowed through its pastures.

watches beyond European borders, initially to

Although there are still plenty of flowers in

the Middle East. The boldest of them were the

Fleurier, the name of this village in the Val-de-

Bovets, who opened up the Chinese market,

Travers, in the Canton of Neuchâtel, is more

taking with them to the courts of the Emperors

generally associated with its many successful

and mandarins a wealth of horological treasures

watch firms than with its floral abundance. In

from Fleurier, preserved forever in the exquisite

the early 19th century, Fleurier was a medium-

enamels of BOVET watches. After opening

sized village with around 100 houses and

branches in Canton and Shanghai, BOVET

800 inhabitants. It was already known for

soon became a benchmark in the field of fine

lacemaking, but from 1820 onwards, a new

watchmaking, to the extent that the name came

activity began to take precedence in the Val-

to be used in China to refer to a high-quality

de-Travers: watchmaking. The word “BOVET”

watch (pronounced BO-WEI).

By the time he was 33, Edouard Bovet had made his own fortune as well as that of his large family, and had given a vigorous boost to his native village. In 1830, the “Bovet de Chine”, as he was known, made his triumphal return to Fleurier and settled in a splendid neoclassical house. This building with its elegant columns is now the town hall.

enters the Chinese vocabulary. 216

217

n November 15th 1840, the Bovet brothers

decided to raise the firmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s share capital to one million francs, a colossal sum at the time. The

international

renown

the

BOVET

company surpassed that of its rivals thanks to a keen sense of salesmanship, and this success was achieved in just 20 years.

Living up to its promises By reducing prices without sacrificing product

BOVET watches, all bearing the Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

quality, Edouard Bovet invented the concept

signature, became an international symbol of

of affordable luxury. He was the first to

quality. This strategy enabled the firm to develop

commercialise transparent case-backs for clients

a loyal clientele that refused timepieces bearing

with a love of fine mechanisms. The movements

any other names. In China, a BOVET timepiece

were richly decorated and the reputation of

was a reliable value that even served as currency

Fleurier engravers exceeded that of those from

in periods of political or economic instability.

Geneva.

219