2012
Papua New Guinea
expeditions
Alotau | Sepik River | Madang | New Britain | Rabaul
Dear Expeditioner, Awaken to a lush, tropical island fringed by pristine, white-sand beaches. Rainforest-clad slopes rise to an active volcano. Paddles swish in crystal clear waters as hundreds of outrigger canoes bring local people keen to lead us back to their home. Luminescent smiles, outstretched hands – the warmth of our first contact is overwhelming. In exotic Papua New Guinea, cultural wealth is displayed in the pageantry of sing-sings, complex rituals, and spectacular costumes. Our anthropologist sheds light on the ceremonial exchange system – the Kula Ring – and throughout the islands we find a lively trade in weaving, woodwork and masks. Our naturalist reveals Papua New Guinea’s rainforest as a hothouse of biological diversity, its coral reefs the most vibrant on Earth. Wherever we land on these remote, rarely visited islands, we sense we step back in time. Some call it a Garden of Eden, others a tropical paradise, but we will all be touched by the honest generosity of its people.
Our first voyage, Islands of Smiles, caters to families keen for adventure and focuses on natural and cultural highlights. To commemorate the 70th anniversary of Australia’s entry into the Pacific War and Papua New Guinea’s entry into World War II, we offer a special commemorative voyage: Lost in Paradise – Our Fallen Heroes. Our historian shines a light on the courage and tragedy of Australia’s unsung heroes – The Lark Force – in the Battle of Rabaul, and the ensuing loss of lives on the Montevideo Maru. Aurora Expeditions pioneered ship-based adventures and we remain committed to small, low-impact groups. Experience Papua New Guinea in many ways – visiting historical sites, walking, kayaking, bird watching, snorkelling, or sharing a beach football match with playful locals. Join us on a voyage to the heart of Papua New Guinea. Amanda Till – Expedition leader Photo: Fresh contact! Locals from a remote village call out heartfelt goodbyes after a visit filled with laughter, fantastic artefacts and song. Photo Andrew Halsall.
Aurora Expeditions’ Papua New Guinea Ancient tribal customs couple with evocative traditional celebrations. Exotic costumes complete with elaborate headdresses. Bashful, giggling village children peek from behind mothers’ colourful skirts. Dense rainforest blankets a mountain landscape. Rusting artefacts, lonely graves and sombre memorials commemorate courage and sacrifice of WWII. Melodious birdsong pierces the silence. Crystal clear waters teem with tropical fish. This is expedition cruising in Papua New Guinea. Right: Peals of laughter herald close encounters of an amusing kind, in the warm waters off Tuam Island. Photo Andrew Halsall. Front Cover: Shy performers prepare for a lively sing-sing near Madang. Photo Andrew Halsall.
145° E
150° E
Admiralty Islands
Tingwon Island
Rambutyo
New Hanover Tabar Islands Djaul Lihir
New Ireland
BISMARCK
B i s m a r c k River
epik
S e a Ambitle
Manam
Rabaul
ARCHIPELAGO Lambon
Karkar
5° S
Toi
Madang
Buka
Long Island
in ta Bri
Umboi
New
Tuam Island
Lae
NEW
Tami Island
Huon Gulf
S o l o m o n
Jacquinot Bay
Bougainville
Voyage 1: Alotau to Alotau Voyage 2: Alotau to Rabaul
S e a
GUINEA NOMINAL SCALE 1:4,250,000
Lababia
0
50
100
0
150 KILOMETRES
50
100 NAUTICAL MILES
Ow en a
ey
Tufi
Go
Port Moresby
Kitava
Trobriand Islands
St
nl
Ra
ng
od e
n ou
gh I
g Fer
e
Woodlark Island
.
uss
on I
.
D’Entrecasteaux Islands Normanby Island 10° S
Alotau
res
Strait
Lo
Milne Bay
Cape York
Samari
C o r a l
Misima
uis
iad
e
S e a
Arc
hip
ela
go Rossel Island
AUSTRALIA
Tagula 145° E
150° E
MAPGRAPHX
Helping local communities Aurora Expeditions’ philosophy is to respect wilderness areas we visit and bring benefits to the local people. Over the last three years, we have donated basic necessities such as books to local schools. We would like to continue this tradition for our 2012 season. If you would like to donate any much needed supplies such as pens, books, and basic medical equipment please contact us to find out how.
Right: Our efforts to help local communities by donating books and school supplies reaps a warm welcome on Tuam Island. Below: Floating markets deliver fresh produce in the D’Entrecasteaux Islands. Photos Andrew Halsall.
“During this exotic voyage I dine by the light of a spluttering volcano, explore kaleidoscope reefs so rich in coral that some have yet to be catalogued, sip cocktails at the mouth of a tropical fjord system and constantly marvel at this primitive-meets-modern land.” KENDALL HILL, THE AUSTRALIAN
Why travel with us? Small groups are best. Dwarfed by larger ships, our vessels are small enough to go where others can’t. We carry a maximum of 54 passengers and delight in the camaraderie of small group adventures. Fewer people often means extra landings, and more intimate and personal experiences. Our staff put you first. Experienced and enthusiastic, we believe our expedition staff are the best in the business. They are passionate about what we do, and your security, wellbeing and understanding of Papua New Guinea are their priorities. Flexibility and freedom are essential to delivering the best experience possible. Our itineraries are designed to allow for movement if we stumble on a new landing site, an unexpected wildlife display or a spontaneous cultural performance. We allow you to enjoy Papua New Guinea your own way whether that be relaxing on a palm-lined beach, meeting the locals, taking an optional trek or tour, or simply admiring the view from our ship’s open bridge.
Providing educational-rich experiences to ensure you understand the importance of the natural and cultural elements of our destinations is important to us. Our goal is to create lifelong ambassadors for the protection and preservation of all of our destinations. We celebrate the sprit of adventure! Sea kayaking to remote islands or down hidden channels? Snorkelling or diving on pristine coral reefs? Sharing an impromptu sing-sing at a local village? With two to three landings a day, we help you discover a true sense of exploration.
VOYAGE 1: 13 DAYS ● 2-14 April 2012 Alotau to Alotau
Islands of Smiles Day 1 Sleepy Alotau passes by as we transfer to Akademik Shokalskiy, and a hearty welcome. Set sail into the tropical paradise of Milne Bay. Day 2 Muscular paddlers escort us to Dobu Island, its happy children await and we learn the enthralling Kula Ring story. Mud pools boil and geysers gush on Fergusson Island, largest of the D’Entrecasteaux group. Day 3 White sands, azure seas and Kitava Island’s Chief welcome us to the Trobriands, famed ‘Islands of Love’. Yam harvest dances feature traditional costumes and brilliant smiles. Fringing reefs delight snorkellers of all ages. Day 4 Lababia village rests amidst a conservation success story, protected by locals. Enjoy rainforest walks, seeking hornbills, parrots, palm cockatoos and the striking Raggiana bird of paradise. Day 5 Four coral atolls of Tami Islands encircle a turquoise lagoon. At idyllic Wannam Island,
colourful fish lure snorkellers, and sing-sing spirit men spellbind our young expeditioners. Day 6 Historic Madang offers snorkelling in crystal clear lagoons, bird watching, lively markets filled with fruit and local artefacts, and the famous Coastwatchers Memorial, dedicated to Australians and locals who provided vital intelligence during WWII. Days 7 & 8 Watam village masks, bird dances and spirit-chasing dragons – Sepik River culture is unique and mesmerising. Blue-eyed cockatoos, great-billed herons and the spectacular Blyth’s hornbill dominate the dawn chorus. Villages, little changed since first contact, are home to the region’s famed master wood carvers. Visit Murik Lakes, where the Sepik meets the Bismarck Sea – a maze of lagoons and mangroves rich in fish and birds. Day 9 A morning at sea, accompanied by seabirds, brings us to Karkar Island, its active volcano and site of Japanese submarine base during WWII. Village gardens thrive in fertile soil. We visit Kulku/Mrangis to see a copra plantation.
Day 10 Trade and fishing dominate life on the Siassi Islands, where mainland and Bismarck Archipelago cultures meet. At Tuam, one of the largest islands, prized decorations include dogs’ teeth and spectacular headdresses. Day 11 As we approach Tufi, birdsong echoes across dramatic fjords and outrigger canoes escort us to a welcome dance. Look out for Queen Alexandria’s Birdwing – the world’s largest butterfly – and snorkel or scuba dive on Tufi’s famed outer reefs. Day 12 Lovely walks around Weddau and Dogura villages include an ascent of Mt Pasipasi for fantastic north coast views. Red-roofed Dogura Cathedral survived WWII. Day 13 Arrive in Alotau early morning and bid farewell to fellow expeditioners, staff and Russian crew.
Abovet: Paradise shared. Locals show off their neighbourhood to our young expeditioners, Madang Harbour. Photo David Kirkland.
VOYAGE 2: 13 DAYS ● 14-26 April 2012 Alotau to Rabaul
Lost in Paradise – Our fallen heroes Day 1 Board Akademik Shokalskiy in Alotau in the early afternoon. Sail into beautiful Milne Bay where Australia inflicted a major loss on the Japanese in 1942. Day 2 Former port and capital of Milne Bay, Samarai Island’s wharves and town were partially destroyed by Australians in 1942 to keep them from the Japanese. Climb a small hill to admire Kwato Island’s church and spectacular views from a gun position.
‘Islands of Love’. Yam harvest dances feature traditional costumes and brilliant smiles. In 1942 the Australian Army established a Spotters Station on the island. Day 6 Idyllic Linden Harbour was a Japanese stronghold after the fall of Rabaul. Lindenhafen and nearby Gasmata became the focus of an Allied campaign to recapture New Britain. War wrecks intermingle with stunning waterfalls, natural spring pools and snorkelling.
Day 3 Canoe flotilla leads us to Dobu Island and the enthralling Kula Ring story. Mud pools boil and geysers gush on Fergusson Island, largest of the D’Entrecasteaux group.
Day 7 Jacquinot Bay’s marine creatures feast on nutrient-rich upwellings from the Solomon Trench, delighting snorkellers. In 1944, the 5th Australian Division landed at Palmalmal, cordoning off 100,000 Japanese troops.
Day 4 Small islands dot the rim of Egum Atoll’s vast lagoon, offering exploration above and below the sea. Gawa Island provides birdwatching and a taste of village life.
Day 8 A dawn river cruise in search of crocodiles, a coconut plantation and a trek to an impressive cave system reveal the wonders of Wide Bay. Enjoy a spectacular sing-sing at Karlai.
Day 5 White sands, azure seas and Kitava Island’s chief welcome us to the Trobriands, famed
Day 9 Pre-dawn at Tol plantation we commemorate members of Lark Force and civilians,
massacred here in 1942. Afterwards, explore strategically important Henry Reid Bay. Day 10 Spear-wielding ‘Masalai’, or bush spirits, welcome us to Lambon Island, New Ireland. On nearby Lambassa Island, stunning beaches and glorious snorkelling belie the tragedy of the Marquis de Rays 1880 property scam. Day 11 Explore Bismarck Archipelago’s exotic Duke of York Islands, spiritually significant to their inhabitants. WWII wrecks litter the coral reefs. Day 12 Our voyage culminates in a moving ANZAC Day Dawn Service to mark the 70th anniversary of New Guinea’s entrance into World War II. Visit historic sites and enjoy Rabaul, perched on beautiful Simpson Harbour ringed by active volcanoes. Day 13 Wake to Rabaul’s dawn chorus and, after breakfast, bid expeditioners farewell. Above: Trobriand dancers strut their stuff in the Islands of Love. Photo Sally Baillieu.
Remembering Lark Force and Montevideo Maru On ANZAC Day 1941, the Australian Army garrison known as Lark Force arrived in the Australian-administered territory of Rabaul, New Britain, with its tree-lined streets and gracious colonial buildings overlooking a deep harbour almost encircled by spectacular volcanoes. A world away from the ‘real war’ in Europe and the Middle East, some soldiers felt sidelined. That changed on 7-8 December, when Japan attacked Pearl Harbour, Malaya and the Philippines. By then, Lark Force had but 1,400 troops, two heavy artillery guns, a few Vickers machine guns and .303 rifles to protect Rabaul.
On 20 January 1942, 109 Japanese aircraft attacked Rabaul. Heavy bombing continued for the next two days, destroying artillery positions and much of the town. On the night of 22 January, Japan’s main fleet carried its South Seas Force into Rabaul’s Simpson Harbour. By the light of volcanoes and the burning town, more than 17,000 Japanese marines landed, meeting fierce resistance in small pockets, like Vulcan Beach. By daybreak the Battle of Rabaul was over. Australian command ordered “every man for himself” and Lark Force dispersed into the steep jungle. Succumbing to tropical disease and hunger, two-thirds of the Australian Army had surrendered or were captured within two weeks. Most were taken to Rabaul, but Japanese troops massacred some 150 men at Tol Plantation. Between March and April, 400 troops and 60 civilians, still at large, escaped on small boats. In Rabaul, prisoners were treated harshly and used as labourers. On 22 June, 845 prisoners of war and 208 civilians were loaded onto the transport ship Montevideo Maru, bound for Hainan, China. On the morning of 1 July, off Luzon in the Philippines, an American submarine torpedoed Montevideo Maru. Everyone on board died – Australia’s greatest tragedy at sea.
Above: Members of Lark Force settle in, unaware of the extraordinary hardship they will face in coming months. Photo Courtesy Rabaul & Montevideo Maru Society. Top right: Although the jungle has reclaimed many, reminders of WWII can still be found throughout the islands. Photo David Kirkland.
Our second voyage commemorates the 70th anniversary of these disastrous events, visiting key historic sites that serve as stark reminders of Australia’s involvement in Papua New Guinea during WWII. Whether you are an expat returning on pilgrimage or you simply want to pay your respects to our fallen soldiers, this is bound to be a moving experience.
Optional activities Sea Kayaking From gazing at sea-life through crystal-clear waters, to paddling among uninhabited tropical islands, sea kayaking around Papua New Guinea is an unparalleled experience. While others take Zodiacs ashore, our kayakers discover hidden waterways, the quiet of paradise and special contact with people who live daily with paddle in hand. If you would like to take part in this option, we ask that you advise us at the time of booking. Numbers are limited and previous experience is required. Scuba Diving A mecca for diving enthusiasts, Papua New Guinea offers pristine waters, unequalled marine diversity and untouched World War II historical sites. We will aim to line up diving opportunities at local resorts for avid divers and first timers alike. Diving stops will be organised on board. Please register your interest when booking. Lark Force Trek Admire the courage of Australian soldiers, as you follow their jungle route to escape overwhelming numbers of Japanese in
Above: Like peas in a pod, paddlers bridge age and cultural gaps with ease. Photo Simon Sharpin.
January 1942. From Vunga, a short drive from Rabaul, the Lark Force Wilderness Track traverses 65 challenging kilometres through pristine rainforest. We visit remote villages and experience diverse cultures before arriving at Tol Plantation, Wide Bay. For more information about our optional activities call our Expedition Experts on +61 2 9252 1033 or 1800 637 688 (freecall within Australia) or visit www.auroraexpeditions.com.au.
Onboard Akademik Shokalskiy Designed and built as an ice-strengthened research ship in Finland in 1982, Akademik Shokalskiy is a wonderful expedition vessel. Fully refurbished in 2008, she provides simple yet comfortable accommodation for a maximum of 54 passengers. Akademik Shokalskiy is well suited for tropical cruising. Our highly experienced Russian captain and crew are among the world’s best and the ship’s small size ensures agile manoeuvrability. She is air-conditioned, and all cabins have outside portholes, plus ample room for storage. The flying bridge and outer decks are perfect for bird watching and photography; the spacious bridge is always open to us. Public areas include a lounge bar, a lecture room/ library, sauna, medical office and dining rooms. Western chefs prepare deliciously nutritious food. The ship is equipped with a small fleet of inflatable Zodiacs, ensuring safe travel as we explore river tributaries, coral reefs and make landings.
LET US MAKE YOUR BOOKINGS
Captain’s Deck
A deposit of $1250 per passenger and a completed booking form should be sent to the Aurora Expeditions office in Sydney. The balance is due 90 days prior to departure. If the balance is not paid by the due date, we will regard the booking as cancelled. Aurora Expeditions is a licensed travel agent, so we can make all your bookings for travelling to and from our cruise departure points, including air travel, hotel accommodation, tours and transfers to the ship.
Captain’s Cabin
513
510
517
509
518
505
521
Aurora Expeditions Travel Brochure Printed July 2011 Produced for Aurora Expeditions by Whelan Productions and Tony Gordon Printcounsel
418
413
420
411
421
Hospital
425 426
Dining Room
Dining Room
321 322
314 313
T
T
312 311
expeditions
326 327
S
331
T
Lounge/Library
S/T S/T
Bar
Suite
Falklands | South Georgia | Antarctic Peninsula | East Antarctica | Subantarctic Islands
Galley
315
2011-12
Antarctica
Main Deck
415
Doctor’s Cabin
ORDER A BROCHURE If you would like to receive an informative brochure on our exciting expeditions to Antarctica, European Arctic, Kimberley Coast, Papua New Guinea or Russian Coast, just give us a call: +61 2 9252 1033.
Upper Deck
Mini Suite
Twin Private
Quad Private
Twin Share
Triple Share
Aurora Expeditions NSW Travel Agents License. Number 2TA07028 Aurora Travel Pty Ltd ABN 85 139 766 911
!"#$%&'()(&*+&,#-#*&+.)&/(0-#*(&1+)&2)#$(Cruising to the heart of nature Aurora Expeditions. Level 3, 13-15 Bridge Street, Sydney, NSW 2000 T +61 2 9252 1033 I F +61 2 9252 1373 I E info@auroraexpeditions.com.au I W www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
e x p e d i t i o n s antarctica I european arctic I russian coast I kimberley coast I papua new guinea