To the person whose potential was always undervalued, Violet Salloum, and to the person who always saw the potential in me, Carol Salloum
TITLE
SHARON SALLOUM With photography by
R O B PA L M E R
jacqui small
To the person whose potential was always undervalued, Violet Salloum, and to the person who always saw the potential in me, Carol Salloum
TITLE
SHARON SALLOUM With photography by
R O B PA L M E R
jacqui small
Introduction 1 The Syrian pantry
5
Middle Eastern food suppliers
8
Spice blends
12
SAUCES & DIPS
15
FINGER FOOD
33
SHARED PLATES
51
SALADS & SIDES
87
MAINS 107 DESSERTS 161 Acknowledgements 195 Index 196
Introduction 1 The Syrian pantry
5
Middle Eastern food suppliers
8
Spice blends
12
SAUCES & DIPS
15
FINGER FOOD
33
SHARED PLATES
51
SALADS & SIDES
87
MAINS 107 DESSERTS 161 Acknowledgements 195 Index 196
Betinjen mehshik STUFFED SMALL AUBERGINES SERVES 6
100 g (½ cup) dried chickpeas (use split chickpeas if available) 200 g (1 cup) medium-grain rice 18 long, thin (10–15 cm/4–6 in) aubergines (eggplants) large handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 small brown onion, finely chopped 1 small tomato, finely chopped and drained in a sieve ½ green (bell) pepper, seeds and membrane removed, flesh finely chopped ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 teaspoons salt flakes 125 ml (½ cup) olive oil 2 large tomatoes, extra, cut into 5 mm (¼ in) thick slices 1 × 420 g (15 oz) can diced tomatoes 1 tablespoon dried mint 1 clove garlic, crushed natural yoghurt, to serve
Note: If you’re likely to make this more than once, it’s worth visiting a Middle Eastern store and buying a manakra – a traditional tool used to remove the flesh from aubergine (eggplant) and courgette (zucchini).
114 MAINS
I grew up believing that no one in our family could possibly survive as a vegetarian. Being a vegan would be something else altogether! However, over time I have come to realise that Middle Eastern cuisine in fact offers many vegetarian and vegan options. One main reason is that you can’t eat meat during Lent and the other is a matter of poverty, or lack of available meat products. Although I am a meat-lover myself, I absolutely adore this dish. The aubergines (eggplants) you’re looking for here are the long, thin purple ones. Soak the chickpeas in a bowl of water overnight. Rinse and drain. Rinse the rice well, then soak in a bowl of warm water for about 30 minutes. Drain. Wash the aubergines (eggplants), then cut the stalk and about 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) off the top of each one. Carefully hollow out the aubergines (eggplants) using a small spoon or apple corer, leaving a 5 mm (¼ in) thick shell (this is a guide; it’s okay if you have left a little more or less flesh around the inside of the aubergine/eggplant). Take your time so you don’t break the skin. Drain the chickpeas. If using whole chickpeas, place them on a chopping board and crush with a rolling pin to split the peas and work their skins loose. Discard the skins. To make the stuffing, place the rice, chickpeas, parsley, onion, chopped tomato, green pepper, pepper, 1 teaspoon salt and 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil in a bowl and mix together well. Using your hands, gently fill the aubergine (eggplant) shells with the stuffing, tapping the base on the bench to close up any holes. Don’t overfill them as the rice will expand during cooking – leave a gap of about 5 mm (¼ in) at the top of the shells. Lay the tomato slices in the base of a large heavy-based saucepan, pour over the remaining olive oil and arrange the stuffed aubergines (eggplants) on top in neat layers. Mix together the diced tomatoes, mint, garlic, remaining salt and 375 ml (1½ cups) water in a bowl, then pour evenly over the stuffed aubergines (eggplants). Place two plates on top to weight the aubergines (eggplants) down during cooking and cover with a lid. Bring to the boil over medium–high heat, then remove the lid, reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 45 minutes or until the aubergines (eggplants) are very tender and the sauce is reduced. Leave to sit for a few minutes, then remove from the pan and serve with yoghurt.
115 S H A R E D P L AT E S
Betinjen mehshik STUFFED SMALL AUBERGINES SERVES 6
100 g (½ cup) dried chickpeas (use split chickpeas if available) 200 g (1 cup) medium-grain rice 18 long, thin (10–15 cm/4–6 in) aubergines (eggplants) large handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 small brown onion, finely chopped 1 small tomato, finely chopped and drained in a sieve ½ green (bell) pepper, seeds and membrane removed, flesh finely chopped ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 teaspoons salt flakes 125 ml (½ cup) olive oil 2 large tomatoes, extra, cut into 5 mm (¼ in) thick slices 1 × 420 g (15 oz) can diced tomatoes 1 tablespoon dried mint 1 clove garlic, crushed natural yoghurt, to serve
Note: If you’re likely to make this more than once, it’s worth visiting a Middle Eastern store and buying a manakra – a traditional tool used to remove the flesh from aubergine (eggplant) and courgette (zucchini).
114 MAINS
I grew up believing that no one in our family could possibly survive as a vegetarian. Being a vegan would be something else altogether! However, over time I have come to realise that Middle Eastern cuisine in fact offers many vegetarian and vegan options. One main reason is that you can’t eat meat during Lent and the other is a matter of poverty, or lack of available meat products. Although I am a meat-lover myself, I absolutely adore this dish. The aubergines (eggplants) you’re looking for here are the long, thin purple ones. Soak the chickpeas in a bowl of water overnight. Rinse and drain. Rinse the rice well, then soak in a bowl of warm water for about 30 minutes. Drain. Wash the aubergines (eggplants), then cut the stalk and about 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) off the top of each one. Carefully hollow out the aubergines (eggplants) using a small spoon or apple corer, leaving a 5 mm (¼ in) thick shell (this is a guide; it’s okay if you have left a little more or less flesh around the inside of the aubergine/eggplant). Take your time so you don’t break the skin. Drain the chickpeas. If using whole chickpeas, place them on a chopping board and crush with a rolling pin to split the peas and work their skins loose. Discard the skins. To make the stuffing, place the rice, chickpeas, parsley, onion, chopped tomato, green pepper, pepper, 1 teaspoon salt and 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil in a bowl and mix together well. Using your hands, gently fill the aubergine (eggplant) shells with the stuffing, tapping the base on the bench to close up any holes. Don’t overfill them as the rice will expand during cooking – leave a gap of about 5 mm (¼ in) at the top of the shells. Lay the tomato slices in the base of a large heavy-based saucepan, pour over the remaining olive oil and arrange the stuffed aubergines (eggplants) on top in neat layers. Mix together the diced tomatoes, mint, garlic, remaining salt and 375 ml (1½ cups) water in a bowl, then pour evenly over the stuffed aubergines (eggplants). Place two plates on top to weight the aubergines (eggplants) down during cooking and cover with a lid. Bring to the boil over medium–high heat, then remove the lid, reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 45 minutes or until the aubergines (eggplants) are very tender and the sauce is reduced. Leave to sit for a few minutes, then remove from the pan and serve with yoghurt.
115 S H A R E D P L AT E S