Latin Flavours Spring 2012

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A U S T R A L I A N

San Telmo Inspires From Buenos Aires to the heart of Melbourne

Spring Edition 2012 Free / Gratis

Bob Hart Gets Real The 3AW host tells all

Superior Latin Wine Tours The Mystical Barbecuer

Spain, Chile, Mexico & Argentina

From the master of illusion, cooking and fish puppetry

Herbeacous Chimichurri Sauce with Flank Steak


South America’s

Dorina Chimichurri Sauce it’ll make your tongue tango! dorina.com.au info@dorina.com.au


Australian Latin Flavours Magazine is published by Insubstantial Pageant Media. Editor David James Creative Director Leonardo Carbonara Layout Design Lisa Jones Photography Ines Colombo, Leonardo Carbonara Contributors Bob Hart, Eduardo Gomez, Peter Farmer, Cecilia Baubeto Enquiries 03 9563 0134 enquiries@latinflavours.com.au Mailing Address 2/29 Darling Street Hughesdale, Vic, 3166 Advertising / Sales 0412785536 / 03 9563 0134 leonardo@latinflavours.com.au Editorial davidjames@latinflavours.com.au Creative Services LFM-Creative leonardo@latinflavours.com.au Production / Printing Colombo Studios Publisher Insubstantial Pageant Media

facebook.com/latinflavours All articles are the property of the publisher. The views and opinions do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publisher or other agents. All the contents of Latin Flavours are only for general information and/or use. Such contents do not constitute advice and should not be relied upon in making (or refraining from making) any decision. No representations, warranties or guarantees whatsoever are made as to the accuracy, reliability, completeness, suitability or applicability of the information to a particular situation. The Editor, Publisher or their agents will not accept any responsibility and cannot be held liable for damages (including, without limitation, damages for loss of any kind) errors or omissions, or for any consequences arising from any reliance on the information published in the Australian Latin Flavours Magazine.

Contents Features 10

14

21

34

A Taste of San Telmo

The fires of San Telmo inspired by Argentinean cuisine

The Mastery of the Barbecue

Senor barbecue is a master of illusion and cooking

Latin Wine Tours

The joys of the wine tours in Spain and South America

Bob Hart Gets Real

The 3AW host analyses the Australian food scene

Lifestyle 5

La Movida Local - Mick Williams on the Latin music scene

September Festival 2012 - The Chilean festival that showcases everything

6

La Movida International - Latin festivals from around the world

News 7

Branding Latin Products - The secrets to skillful marketing

18

What’s Selling - A guide to the most popular products on the Latin scene

Food 26

The Traditions of Paprika - The condiment is an essential in Spanish cooking

29

Recipe Booklet - Catalan fish stew - Quails in vine leaves - Champinones al ajillo - Churros - Alfarojes

SPRING 2012 - 3



La Movida Local Mick Williams on the Latin music scene... Australia is beginning to reflect the range of Latin musical cultures, partly because of its rising importance in America. That is the view of DJ and radio host Mick Williams. Although not Latin by origin, he has developed a deep love of the music and dance. “Basically I got into it in the 1990s,” he says. “I’d always heard Latin music, but I didn’t get the whole thing until I saw the community and I saw the performances and the dancers.

“It is not part of the culture, it is the culture” They have a folkloric tradition and they teach their children very young”. Williams says he has seen several waves of South American influence in

Melbourne. “In the 1990s it was the Chileans and the el Salvadorians and then the Cubans. Now we are getting a lot of Argentineans and Colombians coming here. Colombia is more like Brazil”.

September Festival 2012

Chilean -Latin American A highlight of the Latin calendar is the September Festival, held at the Sandown Entertainment Centre in Springvale. Over two days, the glorious variety of South American musical and food culture is on display. There are 68 community groups, 44 music and dance groups on different stages and over 400 performers. Six hundred volunteers will help make it happen.

“It showcases everything” There is live music from Argentineans, Uruguayans, Brazilians, Colombians, Mexicans, Salvadorians, Peruvians, Bolivians, Cubans and Spaniards. Plus there are five tropical bands to dance till late and an aboriginal group will perform.

They are coming to Australia just for the September festival. We will have the best groups in Melbourne and groups coming from all over Australia. There will also be a circus show and fireworks.”

The festival is expected to break its attendance record of 30,000 people, according to Miguel Santana, president of Fonda La Clinica, the organiser of the festival. He says there will be events for all ages. “We will have Eric Turro’s Habana de Noche, who I think are the best Cuban dancers in the world.

The festival began nine years ago and has been at Sandown for seven years. “It has lots of food as well as the music,” says Santana. There are a lot of facilities and everything is under a roof, including the open areas. It has good parking and a train for people who don’t drive. SPRING 2012 - 5


Spain

La Movida International

In Catalonia in September, there are three days of festivities in the middle of the month in Graus. The highlight is the Mojiganga satirical procession, when the local people perform a satirical play about social life, whose colourful characters include the king, the old woman and the witch. Its origins appear to be in the beginning of the 18th century, following the war of succession, when Bourbon troops invaded Graus, imposing a tax on the town. Zaragoza has the highlight of its calendar, the Fiesta de Pilar in mid-October. There is the Bienal de Flamenco, a flamenco festival in Seville which runs from midSeptember to mid-October. For the more alcoholically inclined, Cadiar, in the Alpujarras mountain range, in early October has its Feria de Octubre, when the fountains are filled with wine rather than water.

Argentina

The International Meeting of Rosario’s Wood, Stone, and Iron Sculpture in the city of Rosario, located in the province of Santa Fe is held during the months of September and October. Local artists congregate to show their workmanship and at the end of the festival the best pieces of art are selected for a special art expo that travels around the country. For lovers of classical music there is the Musical Week of Llao Llao held in the beautiful venue of the Hotel Llao Llao, outside of Bariloche, in the beginning of October. The Manca Fiesta Argentina takes place on the last 2 Sundays in October in the town of La Quiaca, in the province of Jujuy, Argentina. It features traditional crafts, markets and local folk music, llamas and burros.

Cuba

The Havana Festival of Contemporary Music (Musica Contemporanea) is a highlight of the Cuban calendar. On October 10 Cuba has its Independence Day (Dia de la Independencia) celebrating the date in 1868, when the war of independence against the colonial Spanish began. In late October there is the Havana International Ballet Festival a popular week-long ballet fest in which troupes arrive from around the world to perform at the glitzy Gran Teatro.

Uruguay 6 - SPRING 2012

The Montevideo Drum Fest in September features some of the world’s greats. Six concerts are planned in Sala Zitarrosa, the Solis Theatre and the Faculty of Arts Theatre. The finalists of the drum competition play off alongside those world greats.


Branding Latin Products advice on how to make your latin brand a business success. Developing Latin brands seems to be readily achievable, but in Australia the challenge is to make the translation into another culture. The reason is simple arithmetic. There are not enough Spanish speaking people in Australia. About 110,000 Australian residents were born in South or Central America, with the largest countries being: Chile, El Salvador, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Peru and Ecuador. About 60,000 Australians are of full or partial Spanish descent, not enough to develop a large domestic market. Branding Latin foods in Australia thus primarily needs to be directed towards the non-Spanish speaking population if it is to achieve the necessary business scale. Here marketers have two distinct advantages. First, Australia is unusually receptive to new foods from overseas because there is no strong local cuisine. Bob Hart, 3AW broadcaster and barbecue expert says Australian diners are the quickest learners on the planet, adding that in Melbourne pretty much every kind of food is available. The high levels of migration and low levels of resistance to new foods in Australia means that Latin branders should think they are dealing as much with a global market as a national one. That means following international branding

trends rather than trying to customise the offering for Australians. In a sense, it is Australians who are looking to catch up with what is happening overseas rather than the other way around. Secondly, Australian culture is heavily influenced by America, and the rapid growth of the Hispanic population in the United States has greatly increased the awareness of Latin foods in America. It is projected that by 2030 Hispanics will be the largest ethnic group in America. This is having a collateral effect in Australia.

So what are some of the tricks to good branding? First of all, it is necessary to be clear how branding differs from advertising. Advertising is sending out a message in the hope that it will persuade someone to buy. Branding is less direct, and is designed to get people to talk about the product. It is more subtle and its effects are harder to trace. Nevertheless. it is vital. It is well established that word of mouth, what people say to each other about a product, is what most drives sales. American business author Fred Reichheld argues that tracking what people say to each other about a product can predict how a brand will develop. “The best way to get an accurate, truthful evaluation is when there is a third party who you can be very candid with,” he says, “Most people have a very hard time saying negative things to your face. It is very awkward, unless you are angry. But when they are talking to each other, they can be truthful.”

a website is crucial.

Good branding can help along these informal networks. Using testimonials is often effective. If someone with a high public profile says they SPRING 2012 - 7


“ Confidence is always evident in the behavior of market leaders” like your product, ask them if you can quote them in your advertising or selling. Comments on social media can provide valuable feedback about a product and also offer the chance to influence the word of mouth networks. Another essential requirement is to have the right psychological attitude. “Confidence is always evident in the behavior of market leaders,” says one marketing consultant. “You need to inspire confidence in the mind

of a consumer, to make them feel that they are in tune with what is happening in the market, its moods and needs. The aim is to make your offerings clear and bold and to make the customer’s purchase extremely clear and simple.” Perseverance is essential with any branding campaign, especially when the product is not well known. It often takes a long time for people to discuss a new product with each other. In the end, what matters with food is how it tastes. But when it comes to branding, that is not all that is involved. It becomes a matter of communicating a lifestyle, a culture and an attitude. Images of tango, or samba or flamenco can really get the taste buds into a state of anticipation. Food traditions reflect culture and just as a restaurant tries to create an atmosphere to make diners more receptive to the food, so do branders need to create an aura around the product. Pricing is always important, but with the marketing of

foreign foods it is probably less crucial. Consumers tend to be very price aware when the products are familiar, but when they are not pricing is unlikely to be the main consideration. What will matter more is whether the food is well known enough, or intriguing enough, to attract interest. Many other branding methods are possible. Festivals or food shows are one avenue to generate interest, especially if the target is the wholesale buyer rather than the retail consumer. Pursuing media coverage can be effective. The best approach is to write a press release and to ring up the target food writer or journalist and send it to them. Local newspapers are always interested in something that has local significance. And of course, a website is crucial. Customers increasingly search on line for products and making sure that your web site comes up for the key words – especially the specific foods – is essential. The key, according to Ewan Watt, founder of the search engine company roi.com.au, is for businesses to keep focused on what they are trying to sell, not to get too involved in their processes. That is good general advice for any marketing. Confidently presenting the product to the market. But it is important to be aware that what will really matter is not what is said at the time. Most people will not say what they think to your face. What is said, or not said, to other people is what really counts.

“ It is word of mouth and the willingness of people to be enthusiastic about a product, that is the most important element of any branding campaign.”



“Two brothers found inspiration in Argentina. They are bringing it to Melbourne.”

Cover Story:

A Taste of San Telmo Travel, so the proverb goes, broadens the mind. But as the author GK Chesterton wittily commented: “you must have the mind.” There is little doubt that the brothers David and Michael Parker did have a mind for business opportunity. When they spent time in Argentina on a working holiday, they fell in love with Buenos Aires’ restaurant culture. They resolved to start up an Argentinean style restaurant in Melbourne, reasoning that there was a gap in the market. The restaurant, which is named after the oldest neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, opened last October and quickly got interest from local diners. Michael says that considerable effort was put into making the restaurant as authentic as possible. Most of the fittings were imported from Argentina. The central feature is the parrilla (grill), which was made by one of the best artisans in Argentina who works on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. “All of the antiques and wines are exclusively Argentinean,” he says. “The soda siphons, the chandeliers, the cash register, even the cow hide on the bar, are all Argentinean imports. For the windows we used a lead light artist (who lives) in San Telmo.” Michael says the folders, 10 - SPRING 2012


“I would love to do this for many years, hopefully it can become an institution.”

place mats and aprons are all designed in Argentinean style. “We got them all shipped over. The same with the table tops and the front door. This is the traditional style Argentinean restaurant.” Michael says Argentinean and Australian tastes are similar, especially the mutual emphasis on barbecued meat. “The Argentineans are famous for their steaks and they do have a lot of grilled restaurants. It is good simple food - honest quality, done well. It also offers something different: a few wines you have never heard of before and smoked flavours from the grill. It doesn’t seem like a flash in the pan; it is similar to what Australians love in food.” It is one thing to have a good idea, quite another to make it a reality. The brothers teamed up with their business partners Jason and Renee McConnell. David Parker, Michael’s older brother, says he spent five years in different spots in South America but kept on going back to Argentina. “I loved South America, but Buenos Aires has a trendy European edge so it is a place that is (good to stay). “It is a European city with a football culture, the women and the dancing. I played polo when I was there and of course the food is amazing: you can live really well on a reasonable budget. They serve huge slabs of meat with red wine. It is a great food environment but not a stuck up environment.” Michael says the first challenge was to find a location. A building formerly used by the Victorian State Library in Meyers Place in the heart of the city was rented. Then the fittings were imported to achieve the authenticity. Next step was the staffing. It was decided that bringing over an Argentinean chef was too expensive, so they SPRING 2012 - 11


hired a local chef, Michael Patrick, who also had developed a love for Argentinean food. The waiting staff is a mixture of Australians and Argentineans. Michael says they initially got some help from Argentineans to help the chefs with the chimichurri (meat sauce) and empanadas (similar to pasties). “Our chef doesn’t have that heritage, so we needed initial help,”he says. “We are still getting it all running smoothly. We are hoping to take the concept and build on it.” Michael says the greatest business challenge is managing staff. “(The aim) is to get good staff and hold on to them. Staff who care about the industry and are interested the Argentinean thing and have a passion for the food and wine and the way they go about eating and drinking. It is also important to keep control of staff costs and food costs. The staff cost is a big one and it can’t get out of control. But we haven’t had any serious cash flow problems.” Michael extols the late night culture of Argentina, where people eat “long and slow and late dinners.” He has high hopes for the restaurant. “It really has been amazing, beyond what we would have imagined it would have been. There is quite a lot of interest in Latin American cuisine. It is similar to what Australians love in food”.

Favourite foods at San Telmo David Parker says most Australians find Argentinean food easy to relate to. He says some of the clientele is Latin American, but the majority are Australian locals. “Entranas are really popular,” he says. “Chorizo sausage, morcilla (blood sausage) and mollejas (sweet bread) are also liked. Goats cheese is also popular.” David says sometimes an adjustment can be required for locals. “Sometimes you have to explain to people,” he says. “For instance, the ribs can be quite chewy. The most important thing is to have the traditional charcoal grill.” 12 - SPRING 2012


San Telmo, Buenos Aires is the oldest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. Its cobbled streets ooze history and boasts many cultural features such as tango parlours, museums, churches and antique shops. The suburb itself is a small, square area that is bounded to the north by Avenida Chile, to the west by Calle Chacabuco, to the east by Avenida Ingeniero Huergo and to the south by Parque Lezama and Avenida Caseros. The area was formally incorporated into Buenos Airesin 1708 as the “Ovens and Storehouses of San Pedro.” In 1806 it was named the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo (or “San Telmo”), in honor of the Patron Saint of seafarers. It was an impoverished region that languished even after the declaration of Argentinean independence in 1816. For about half a century there were no public works.

“I would love to do this for many years, hopefully it can become an institution” But from about the middle of the nineteenth century things began to improve. Infrastructure was improved with the installation of gas mains, lighting, sewers, running water and cobblestones. The opening of the city’s main wholesale market led to increasing interest in the area on the part of the burgeoning middle class. The imposing homes that can still be seen in the western part of the suburb started being erected. An epidemic of yellow fever struck the area in 1871, claiming over 10,000 lives. There was an exodus of San Telmo’s growing middle and upper classes into what later became Barrio Norte. Hundreds of properties were left behind and a few of the larger lots were converted into parks.

Over the next century, San Telmo became the most multicultural neighborhood in Buenos Aires, attracting immigration from British, Galician, Italian and Russian - Argentine communities. The suburb also began attracting artists, artisan guilds and was the location for the building of the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art in 1956. It remains an historical wonder.

www.santelmo.com.au

SPRING 2012 - 13


From entranced chickens to true Argentinean barbeques

What do you do when you are a surrealist who specialises in hypnotising chickens and fish puppetry? Develop a business in catering true Argentinean barbeques, of course. That is what Hernan Palacio, owner of the Senor BBQ, has done. Hernan runs the Australian Institute of Pataphysical Studies, an absurdist school that treats reality as an illusion. He describes it as the “science of imaginary solutions to practical problems”. “We did (a pataphysical performance) in 2003 for the Melbourne Fringe Festival for a street performance that was the first flash mob in Melbourne,” he says. “It involved 30 people in wet suits holding carps, goggles and shower caps puppeteering a school of fish. We went up and down Swanston Street. We were giving out (toys) that allowed people to blow bubbles.” Back in the (possibly illusory) real world, Hernan founded Senor BBQ five years ago. He says it took two years for the business to develop. Australians like to have a barbeque,he comments, but mainly to accompany their love of beers. “My main business is mobile catering” he says. “People will have birthday parties etc and I will cook barbeques. The culture of barbequing in Australia 14 - SPRING 2012

is mainly: ‘I have a beer, what am I going to have with it?’ There are some great Australian beers, spectacular.” Hernan arrived in Australia 15 years ago, having met an Australian woman in Argentina. His headquarters is in Barkly Street, St Kilda, in a performing venue behind Pure Pop Records. He serves charcoal grilled chorizo, asado, chicken and mixed grill through a hole in the wall. All with the famous meat sauce chimichurri. Hernan is very much from the great Argentinean tradition of slow charcoal cooking of meat. “We can say that Spaniards went to Buenos Aires about 500 years ago. The first settlement of people brought cows. The Indians killed them off and the cows went wild in the Pampas. It was the perfect place for them to multiply.” Centuries later, meat had become a staple part of the Argentinean culture. “In the Argentinean diet, salad was more expensive than steak. From that, the gauchos came up with a tradition


of barbequing. They used hardwood to create charcoal and they developed particular cuts of meat. And the chimichurri’s a very particular sauce. The Australians just stick it on a hot plate with gas and destroy it. All they want is to seal it on both sides and have another beer.”

What is the most important lesson that Hernan has learned in business? “The biggest thing I got right was to stop drinking - and then to start drinking again”

Looking somewhere between wistful and amused, Hernan says barbequing in Argentina is an “idiosyncratic” experience. “They stand around the pit and talk, and fight with each other over who is going to it. Everyone knows that is going to happen and that is all part of the experience.” Australian customers notice the difference in the way the meat is cooked. “They are often raving about the way we do it. It is an unusual flavor and very different. And people love meat here. I guess it takes time and effort to set up and do it properly.”

So, what is his secret? “The secret is the way the beef is cut so that, when it cooks, the marrow starts to melt into the meat. The chimichurri, which is infused with garlic, parsley, oregano, vinegar, olive oil, black pepper, lemon and cumin, is applied after. It cleans the palate”. Senor Barbecue employs up to 20 people, depending on how busy he is. “We can do two to three events at the same time. I’m in my second year full time. I started doing it at markets and festivals then eventually I moved into private stuff.” Hernan says it took him a while to get the business right. He has an Australian degree in advertising and did the New Enterprise Incentive Scheme (NEIS), which he praises highly – not because of the content but because of the interaction with other would-be entrepreneurs. “You have got lots of people there trying to do the same thing. It is what you make out of it, so you have to be focused.” Much experimentation was required and he had to alter the way he presented the business. “The first time was a flop, and the second time was a flop, but I persevered. Later, I changed the name and created a brand. I knew then that it would be profitable. I know exactly what I am doing.” He says some of his biggest advances came from often apparently small issues such as lighting. Hernan’s brochures, menus and signage are all in black on yellow, which does not require special lighting, they work in any environment. He uses an image of the famous Mexican revolutionary Emiliano Zapata on his signs. The marketing is mainly web based, with an emphasis on stimulating word of mouth. His website features a review from the blogger Adrian Briones, who describes his product as “definitely the most memorable food stall,

MENU Chorizo Sandwich $8 Chicken Wings $10 Beef Ribs $12 (sml) $16 (lg) Mixed Grill $22

likely due to the whiffs of juicy ribs, chorizo and chicken wings sizzling on beds of charcoal”. The passionate and upbeat Hernan explains how to cook meat the Argentinean way. Firstly, there is no need for marinade as it is slow cooked on charcoal. Simplicity is crucial. Hernan usually has only four items: chorizo (sausage), asado (ribs), chicken wings and mixed grill. “I could have molleja (sweet bread) but I would have to bring it in from Sydney.” Senor BBQ does not have a liquor license, but can provide customers with sellers of Argentinean beers. Sometimes he puts on banquets and pre-sells tickets for $50, but his main business is in catering. About half the clientele is corporate, half private. “We do jobs for TAFEs when they have students; they may want 500 chorizos. We arrive two hours before the food is to be served and we stay as long as is required for the people to be satisfied. Then we spend an hour packing up.” Hernan has ambitions to expand interstate and says he may look at developing a franchise operation in two years. “The plan is to go national. I’ve been doing interstate gigs. I have developed business contacts in New South Wales and Western Australia, who are doing the same kind of thing. I give them leads from my internet marketing.” SPRING 2012 - 15


“One of the concepts is that everyone lives a pataphysical life, regardless of whether we are aware of it or not,” says Hernan, aka Senor BBQ. “The difference is that I am aware.” So what is pataphysics? It is defined as a philosophy dedicated to studying what lies beyond the realm of metaphysics. The term was coined by the French writer Alfred Jarry (1873–1907), who defined it as "the science of imaginary solutions, which symbolically attributes the

properties of objects, described by their virtuality, to their lineaments." A strong influence in both art and music, it involves making imaginary, metaphoric worlds, the implication being that they are more real than the real world.

16 - SPRING 2012

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- What’s selling? Ingredients Corn flour, beans, soft drink and a special kind of banana As Australians become more interested in South American foods, their focus is turning towards the ingredients, according to Jaime Orellano, the El Salvadorian director of San Carlos Products in Dandenong, Melbourne. The most popular ingredients are chilies and frijoles (beans). The company also sells gasiosas, a type of soft drink. “We also have our own brand of corn flour: Masa Lista which has no preservatives, and is good for celiacs (people allergic to wheat),” says Orellano. “That is what Australians especially buy from us. We sell it in Safeway in Queensland and in restaurants for celiacs. That is our most

popular.” Orellano says he has purchased a machine to make tortillas from Mexico to expand. “It is for the future, we want to expand to the rest. So far it has been mainly for people from the Latin community and for export as well. Now our strategy is to expand into the rest of the population.” Orellano says to increase awareness one Sunday each month they show products to the public and host a fiesta. “We have started a farm of platanos: a type of banana for cooking. We import some fruit as well which is medicinal. That is guanabana.”

Wine & Other Things Pisco Sour and more... Vicente de la Plaza, of DLP International and Latin Foods and Wines imports many wines. The best sellers are wines under the Carta Vieja label, including Carmenere and Merlot. The Viejo Roble Cabernet Sauvignons are in demand, and Concha y Toro red wines are popular. He also stocks Misiones de Rengo Malbec from Argentina. Vicente imports Artesano Pisco Sour, and Pisco Bauza, but he says the Mistral Pisco, which is 40 per cent alcohol, is the most popular. The imported Latin beers, Cristal and Escudo, are also liked. Vicente sells to the public in general, not just the Latin community. “The interest in

Latin food and drink has grown dramatically. The Australians go and buy things, but not in big quantities. The Chileans live for eating, and Australians eat to live.” Vicente, who has been in business for 21 years, imports many types of goods, including soft drinks, teas, spices and personal products such as perfumes. And where is he looking to expand his business? Empanadas (a Chilean pastry, similar to a pastie), which he thinks are growing in popularity and are starting to appear on supermarket shelves. In one order, he says, he had to supply 4,000 empanadas for Fiesta de la Hispanidad.

“The Chileans live for eating, and Australians eat to live.” 18 - SPRING 2012


Confectionary & Pastries Small cakes and sandwiches, made in the Argentinean style Petit fours, a type of confectionary, and sandwiches de migas, a small sandwich in the Argentinean style, are especially popular says Monica, manager of Monica’s Cake Shop in Springvale. She also sees good demand for masas finas (small cakes or chocolates), alfajores or a shortbread with a layer of dulce de leche (condensed milk) in the middle. Empanadas, pre-prepared pizzas and mantecol, a type of nougat similar to halva, make up the mix. Monica says she mainly sells to Latinos and locals. “People travel a lot to South America these days and after they come back they want to continue trying what they tried in those

countries,” says Monica. “Sandwiches de migas and masas secas are for parties.” The first thing Argentineans and Uruguayans buy for parties is petit fours. Monica originally comes from Rosario, the largest city in Santa Fe in central Argentina. She saw an early opportunity to bring her native cuisine to Australia. She says there is growing interest in Latin food, but she is happy with the business as it is. “We want the business to be in the traditional way. Keep it in the family and make it small with an emphasis on quality. We have been here for more than 20 years.”

Beverages A leaf known as Yerba Mate is popular, mainly as a tea Jonathan Rivas, manager of Milano Food Traders in Sydney imports a wide range of products: mayonnaise, crackers, lollies, confectionary. But one of the best products is a beverage known as Yerba Mate, much beloved of Argentineans and Uruguyans, who famously sit together sipping the drink and talking deep into the night about matters of great import. Yerba Mate has been shown to have health properties, which is one reason it is attracting so much local attention. “Australians are getting to know Yerba Mate, which

is trendy now,” says Rivas. “Some are starting to have as much mate as the Argentineans, with the bombilla (metal straw). But what they buy the most is tea bags.” Rivas believes the interest in Latin food is growing. His main clientele has been Latinos but they are looking to expand. “We have more than 250 businesses that we sell to in Australia. We import dulce de leche, which does well, including with Australians. “We have clients all over Australia including many from Italian and Greek background.” SPRING 2012 - 19


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tour departing Barcelona nights at the 5-star Hotel Casa Fuster • Return transfers by private vehicle • 4 breakfasts & 2 lunches • Dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant • Private cooking class with local Chef • Private food and wine tastings • English speaking guides and entrance fees as per itinerary • Transportation by taxi or private car HIGHLIGHTS Barcelona – Penedes Wine Region – Sitge

Call 1800 228 335 www.travel-associates.com.au

*Travel restrictions and conditions apply. Please ask us for further details. Prices and taxes are based on brochured rates correct as at 16 Feb 12 and are subject to change without notice. Prices quoted are on sale until 30 Aug 12 unless otherwise stated or sold out prior. Prices are per person and are subject to availability. Accommodation based on twin share. Seasonal surcharges and blackout dates may apply depending on date of travel. Prices shown are fully inclusive of taxes, levies, government charges and other applicable fees. Airfare not included. Gastronomic Barcelona: Valid for travel on selected dates from 1 Sep – 31 Oct 12. Highlights of Argentina & Brazil: Valid for travel on selected dates from 8 Jun 12 – 12 Dec 13. Flight Centre Limited (ABN 25 003 377 188) trading as Travel Associates. Lic No. QLD TAG262, NSW 2TA002719, ACT 18800224, VIC 31089, TAS TAS031, SA TTA254, WA 9TA589 & NT 008. TAADV51371

TAADV51371_Latin_Flavours_Ad.indd 1

29/06/12 4:11 PM


Latin Wine Tours

It is a grueling job, but someone has to do it.

The arduous task of undertaking tours of some of the Latin world’s best wine regions. Participants are forced to taste exquisite offerings from some of the world’s best vintners. Latin wines may not have the same long international history as French wines, but they are in many respects just as sophisticated. The countries in South America are beginning to establish exceptional international reputations.

Spain In Spain, because of the dry climate, vineyards tend to have a low yield, but there are vineyards across the country: from moist Galicia to dry Murcia, with the biggest vineyards in Castilla-La Mancha. About half of Spanish wine is designated quality wine. Most of Spain’s wines are red, although most of the vineyards have white grapes because of the high level of production of brandy and sherry. The main red grape varieties are Tempranillo, Bobal, Garnacha (Grenache) and Monastrell. The main white grape varieties are Airen, Macabeo, Palomino and Pedro Ximenez. This is an important fact for tourists to know as they lovingly try all of the wines made from these strains. Meticulous attention is the order of the day. The family company, Vintage Spain conducts wine tours (Rutas de Vino) of Spain. There is an emphasis on diversity. Vineyards and wineries on the

tours come in different types: traditional, modern, famous and ecological. Vintage conducts wine tours in the main Spanish regions: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toledo, La Mancha, Penedes, Priorat, Toro, Galicia, Andalusia and Jerez. Routes are usually one day or longer. All aspects of wine in Spain are explored, from how the grapes are grown to the secrets of wine tasting. The backdrop is Spain’s distinctive cuisine, art, culture and history. Routes may be one day or longer, and each day one, two or three wineries are visited. Monasteries, castles, churches, palaces and medieval villages are all on the agenda. Ribera del Duero, two hours from Madrid, is one of the destinations. Participants can visit Castle Penafiel and a wine museum and have traditional roast lamb for lunch, the perfect companion of the wine of Ribera. From Barcelona, tourists can visit Pericles or Montserrat. From Bilbao or San Sebastian wine lovers can make the trip to Rioja. Or from Sevilla they can enjoy Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda. SPRING 2012 - 21


Other operators to offer Wine tours in Spain are: Cellar Tours Euro Adventures Wine Pleasures & Viavinum Tours

Chile Chilean wines are world famous. The climate is perfect and there are other advantages. Phylloxera, a louse that damages grapes, has not become a pest in Chile. The bug decimated European wines in the nineteenth century and more recently, over the last 10 years, it wreaked havoc in California. So dangerous is it, Phylloxera has altered wine growing practices throughout the world. In Chile, however, the pest is not a problem. It has either not made it across the Andes or it cannot survive in the sandy coastal soils. Chile’s vineyards are consequently planted with ungrafted rootstock: a rare phenomenon in modern wine production. Chile has a lot of climatic diversity. The dry Aconcagua region in the north is suited to red wines. The moist coastal region Casablance makes world class Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. The Maipo region is famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Rapel is the largest of the fine wine areas, with Merlot featured. 22 - SPRING 2012

One Chilean wine tour (Ruta del Vino) goes to the Colchagua Valley, which in 2005 was awarded the title of the best wine region of the world. Intrepid wine tasters learn how the grapes are produced and the secrets of great wine making. In early March the Harvest Festival of Colchagua takes to the streets of Santa Cruz. Drinking is enjoyed by all. Mendoza Holidays also conduct Chilean wine tours, as does Argentinean Tours.


Mexico Mexican wine making has a long and complex history. The oldest wine-growing region in the Americas, it began with the arrival of the Spanish in the sixteenth century. There were indigenous grapes before the Spanish conquest, but Spanish grapevines also flourished. In the eighteenth century wine making was prohibited, except for Church purposes, probably in order to protect Spanish wine makers from competition. But after Mexico’s independence in 1821, production increased again, especially in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

But that is changing. Mexico is beginning to export wines and the industry is rapidly improving its standards. Zonaturistica have wine tours that start out in Baja California and go to the Valle de Guadalupe, the main wine producing region of Mexico.

There are seven wine regions in Mexico: Baja California, Sonora, Coahuila, Durango, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes and Queretaro. Until recently, Mexican wines did not have an international reputation, despite the excellent climate and long history. High taxes meant wine producers even had trouble getting local interest.

SPRING 2012 - 23


Argentina Argentina’s wine industry is the fifth largest in the world. Indeed, until the early 1990s, Argentina was the biggest producer of wine outside Europe. Argentinean wine has its roots in Spanish vintner practice: vine cuttings were first brought to Santiago del Estero in 1557. There has traditionally been more of an emphasis on quantity than quality, but that is changing.

Argentina has a number of natural advantages. The warmer inland region supports vine growing, yet in different ways. In the north, the vineyards lie at the same latitude as Morocco; in the south, vineyards have the same latitude as New Zealand. Many wine tour operators are available in Argentina, including: The Grapevine, Mendoza Holidays, Amazing Mendoza, Wines Mendoza and Argentina Wine Tourism.

By any standards, the wine industry is sizable. Argentina has a winegrowing area of over 210,000 hectares and 25,180 vineyards. Grapes are grown in 13 of the 24 provinces of the country; however only seven are of significance: Salta, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, Mendoza, Neuquen and Rio Negro. Mendoza, situated a hundred miles east of Santiago, is generally considered the epicentre of the Argentinean wine industry.

There are tours to the High Zone of the Mendoza River, where altitudes range between 800 and 1100 meters above sea level with various micro climates. This is an area that has many varieties, although it highlights the Malbec grape. The Northern area is suitable for fruity whites and young reds and the East is the most productive area of the province. The altitude of both is 600 to 700 meters. The Uco Valley is a zone of colder weather and higher altitudes of between 800 and 1400 meters, so most of the vineyards are located on the slopes of the foothills.

Argentina has the usual varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are also Spanish and Italian varieties like Tempranillo, Bonarda and Barbera. Argentina vintners focus on cultivating the Torrontes white wine grape, good for making crisp and acidic wines. And the Argentinean Malbec grapes are considered the best in the world.

Spanish and South American destinations offer much to the courageous wine taster. Excellent versions of all the well known varieties of wine are available, plus there are subtle differences that serious wine tasters should explore extensively. Anything else is nothing less than negligence. Latin wine awaits...

24 - SPRING 2012

for more information, head to: www.alturawt.com contact: info@alturawt.com


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The best-selling barbecue book that is changing the taste of Australian back yards. In good book shops (RRP $29.95), or on-line at: www.heatandsmoke.com


The Traditions of Paprika the spanish spice that has everyone talking... Paprika, or pimentón is one of the most commonly used ingredients in Spanish cooking. It is included in chorizo sausage, sauces, stews, casseroles or sprinkled on top of seafood, such as octopus. It is made from ground, dried red chilli peppers, which can range from mild to hot. The Spanish understanding of this condiment is sophisticated and bound up with tradition. The location where the paprika was made (formally known as the denomination of origin) is considered vital. One such denomination is Murcia on the southeastern coast of Spain. A more famous denomination is La Vera, which is located in Cáceres, Extremadura, southwest of Madrid. These two areas are warm and dry in the summer, which make them well suited to growing peppers. There are several different types of Spanish paprika, derived from different kinds of peppers or chillies. Pimentón Dulce or Sweet Paprika is made from round red peppers, which make it a mild, light orange paprika. Pimentón Agridulce or Medium Hot Paprika comes from longer, dark red pepper, resulting in a medium hot paprika. Pimentón Picante or Hot Paprika is crafted from different types of long red peppers. The making of Spanish paprika has a long and fiercely protected history. In La Vera, the pepper seeds are planted in March and harvested between September and November. When they are ripe, they are set out to dry in little drying houses. The peppers are placed on racks above a fire and turned by hand once a day to ensure even drying. The drying process takes about two weeks. In Murcia, by contrast, the traditional method is to dry the peppers by laying them out in the sun. The dried peppers are then taken to small paprika mills, where the stalks and part of the cores are removed. The peppers are ground slowly using electrically driven stone wheels. It is a careful process. Grinding too fast can damage the flavor and color of the paprika. It is then packed for shipment. Protecting the paprika traditions is a serious concern 26 - SPRING 2012

in Spain. Just as champagne can now only come from the Champagne region in France, the labelling of paprika is also heavily controlled. Pimenton de la Vera has been protected by a certified designation of origin since 1998. Only peppers grown in the La Vera valley can get the certification. Likewise, Murcia also has a special designation. As the web site Hot Paella imperiously comments: “No simple pepper can meet these standards, only those that follow the time-honored traditions exactly.” Paprika’s smokiness gives depth to recipes. The precious powder is indispensable for Spanish chorizo sausage, in pork dishes and a variety of shrimp dishes and tapas. It adds a taste of authenticity to paellas. An example of how it is used is Bienmesabe, which is made with dogfish, vinegar, garlic, oil, salt flour and egg. The spices are liberal amounts of paprika and cumin – a typical Spanish combination. It can be used with white meats, such as the recipe pan fried pimenton chicken, which combines the paprika with chicken thighs and sherry. A pork marinade can be made from paprika, sugar and cumin mixed in a bowl with the garlic and parsley. Then soy sauce, oil, vinegar and water are added and it is stirred to make a paste. The pork strips are then marinated for 24 hours. Spanish Paprika is a deep rich red colour, which adds vibrancy to dishes. It will keep in a cupboard for about 2 years and is an absolute essential for any Spanish cook. For more ideas of how to use Paprika visit our recipe section, pages 27 - 31.


MENDOZA / ARGENTINA

BODEGA Los 33 de latitud sur es un punto geográfico, especial, altamente propicio para el cultivo de la vid. El clima de esta zona geográfica se caracteriza por una amplitud termica entre dias cálidos y noches frias durante los meses de verano. Estas condiciones, junto con la escasez de lluvias y los suelos arenosos y permeables, convierten a esta zona cuyana en la más apropiada para el cultivo de la vid, permitiendole competir con los mejores y más tradicionales viñedos europeos. The 33 southern latitude is a geographic point with especially adequate features for the growth of grapes. The climate of this area is characterised by a wide temperature range in winter and sunny days in summer. These conditions , together with the scarce rainfalls and the sandy permeable soils make this area appropriate for the production of grapes. Our wines are, therefore, able to compete at the same level with those of the best and most traditional European wineries.

VARIEDAD / VARIETY MALBEC 100%

COSECHA MANUAL / HAND HARVEST. TIEMPO EN BARRICAS / TIME IN BARRELS: Durante 7 meses en barricas de roble Americano (50%) y Francés (50%) During 7 months in American oak barrels (50%) and French barrels (50%). ALCOHOL: 14% V/V

VINEDOS / VINEYARDS

SUELO / SOIL: Arenoso, buen drenaje, profundo. / Sandy, good drainage, deep. ALTURA / ALTITUDE: 1200 metros sobre el nivel del mar - 3937 feet asl.

Ubicacion de vinedos / Vineyards location: 100 has. San Carlos- Valle de Uco, Mendoza, 70 has. La Consulta-Valle de Uco, Mendoza, 30 has. Chilecito-La Riioja

CLIMA / CLIMATE: Desértico con precipitaciones menores a 200 mm. Clima caluroso, con gran amplitud térmica entre el día y la noche. / Desert like a weather, with less than 200 mm of rainfall a year. Warm climate with a wide difference of temperature between daytime and night time.

CAPACIDAD DE VASIJA / VAT CAPACITY

ELABORACIoN / ELABORATION

VINEDOS / VINEYARDS

Total: 10.000.000 litros / liters. En piletas de cemento de 10.000, 20.000 y 30.000 litros / In concrete vats of 10.000, 20.000 and 30.000 liters.

CAPACIDAD DE ESTIBA / STORAGE CAPACITY

1.000.000 de botellas en cavas subterraneas/ bottles in underground cellars. 2.000 barricas en cavas subterraneas / barrels in underground cellars.

FERMENTACIÓN / FERMENTATION: Levaduras Seleccionadas. / Selected Yeast. MALOLÁCTICA / MALOLACTIC: Si. / Yes. PRODUCCIÓN / CASES PRODUCED: 8.000 cajas x 12 botellas. / 8.000 boxes x 12 bottles.

Lecce wine was born in Nado, a small town of the province of Lecce which is situated in Publia in the south of Italy. It is derived from a long family tradition. Succeeding generations learned the artisanal way of making wine from a very small old vineyard. What they produced was just enough to provide for the year. For Luigi Pero the table was sacred, a sublime moment. It was the time when the family c ommunicated a nd c ommuned. The w ine was used f or t he t oast: a s ymbol t o ask f or blessing for health, peace and the conservation of the unity of the families. In honour of his father Luigi, Tony Pero started exporting this noble wine. Made with deep feeling it has Argentinean body and soul, Italian spirit. Serve between 16 - 18’c Red wine. 750 ML Product of Argentina. Produced and bottled for Bodega for Antonio Pero.

Contact Details: Francisco Pannochia Commercial Director fpannocchia@cuartosurco.com

Tony Pero tony.pero@hotmail.com

NOTAS DE CATA / TASTING NOTES:

Vino de color rojo profondo. Deep red wine.

Combina fruta roja silvestre, minerales y suaves notas de eucaliptos y especias. Combines wild red fruit, mineral and soft notes of eucalyptus and spicy flavours

Aterciopelado al paladar suave y elegante con un persistente final. / Velvety on the palate, smooth and elegant with a lingering finish.

16 degrees C


Italian Noir Collection A must have collection of glamourous black dresses, cut from the finest Italian jersey, luxuriously draped deep cowls, cross-backs, and soft necklines featuring detailed mesh plaits and flounces. Please join me at an exclusive event, showcasing my latest collection ‘Italian Noir’ of exquisite black dresses perfect for any event. Date: Time: Place: Contact:

9th - 10th September 2012 1.00pm - 7.00pm 14 Chambers Street, South Yarra 0487 921 455


Celebrate

Spring! 5 fabulously fresh recipes Catalan fish stew Quails in vine leaves Champi単ones al ajillo Churros Alfarojes

easy-to-make party treats the whole family will enjoy...


Fish Stew

A favourite Catalan recipe.

Ingredients Stew 1kg 700 gms 1/2 cup 2 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 2 cups 1 tsp 6 sml 500 gms 400 gms 400 gms

Picada 1 dried 単ora pepper, wiped clean medium tomatoes 1 tbsp of toasted hazelnuts, potatoes 1 tbsp toasted blanched almonds, toasted extra-virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove garlic cloves, minced finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1/8 tsp saffron threads, crumbled dry white wine fish stock spanish paprika hard-shelled clams cultivated mussels hake / cod fillet with skin, cut into pieces large shrimp, peeled Cooking

Serves: 3-4 time 2 hours

Method:

Soak peppers in boiling-hot water until softened, for about 45 minutes. Discard stems and tear open peppers, then dip in soaking water to remove seeds. Scrape flesh from skin with a small sharp knife (discard skin). Pound nuts with garlic to a smooth paste using mortar and pestle. Add saffron, then add peppers and grind to a paste.

Stew:

Cut an X in bottom of each tomato and blanch in a large pot of boiling water 30 seconds, then peel, seed, and chop. Peel potatoes and cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Break slices into 1-inch pieces. Heat 1/4 cup of oil over medium-high heat until hot, then cook potatoes, until pale golden, for 8 to 10 minutes. Cook garlic with parsley in remaining 1/4 cup oil in a wide 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring, until fragrant. Stir in tomatoes and wine and briskly simmer for 1 minute. Add potatoes, then add stock and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Increase heat to high. Thin picada with some liquid from pot, then add to pot with paprika and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook until broth is slightly thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add clams and cook, covered, until they start to open, 3 to 7 minutes. Add mussels. Toss hake and shrimp with 1/4 teaspoon salt and add to stew. Cook, covered, until shells open wide and hake and shrimp are cooked, 4 to 8 minutes; discard unopened shellfis 30 - SPRING 2012


Quails in Vine Leaves

Quail is a delicate white meat much loved in Spain. On the face of it the bird can taste bland, but with lemon, vine leaves and a sherry sauce the flavour is greatly enhanced.

Ingredients:

Quails in Vine Leaves 8 2 8 16 1 60 ml (Âź cup) 100 ml 50 gms 250 gms

quails lemons slices of jamon serrano or prosciutto orange slices for garnish vine leaves in salt water, rinsed in cold water tablespoon of olive oil veal or chicken stock sweet sherry chilled butter, diced watercress or green salad

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. 2. Cut lemons into quarters and put a quarter into each quail. 3. Wrap each quail with a slice of jamon. Put a quail over two overlapping vine leaves, fold the leaves around the bird and secure with kitchen twine. Repeat with remaining quails. 4. Put the wrapped quails in a roasting tin, add orange, drizzle with the oil and bake for 30 minutes. 5. Remove from the oven. Pierce to check juices are clear, not pink. If pink keep cooking. When cooked, take quails out and leave for 10 minutes. Remove twine and vine leaves. 6. Combine remaining juices, stock and sherry into a small saucepan, bring to the boil and gradually whisk in the butter. Takes 3-4 minutes. Serves: 7. Serve the quail on salad. Drizzle with sauce.

4 Cooking time 1 hour SPRING 2012 - 31


Champiñones al ajillo Ingredients:

Champiñones al ajillo 6 1 - 2 tbsp 630 gms 60 ml ¼ 2 tsp

garlic cloves tablespoons lemon juice mushrooms (can be of different types) olive oil long red chilli, finely chopped chopped parsley

Directions:

1. Crush four of the garlic cloves and thinly slice the rest. 2. Sprinkle the lemon juice over sliced mushrooms. 3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the crushed garlic and chopped chilli. 4. Stir over medium heat for 10 seconds, then add mushrooms and any seasoning. 5. Cook for 8-10 minutes, regularly stirring. 6.Stir in the sliced garlic and parsley. Cook for another minute. Best served hot.

Ingredients:

Churros

Churros 110 gms 1 tsp 30 gms 150 gms ½ tsp ¼ tsp 2

sugar ground cinnamon butter plain flour finely grated orange zest castor sugar eggs Oil for deep frying.

Directions:

32 - SPRING 2012

Serves: 4 Cooking time 15 mins

1. Combine sugar and cinnamon on a plate. 2. Place butter, flour, orange zest, castor sugar and water in a saucepan. Soften the butter until it becomes a dough with the other ingredients. 3. Cook for 2-3 minutes until there is a doughy coating on the base of the pan. 4. Beat dough and eggs together. Dough musn’t be too soft, (so its cut-able) 5. Put dough into a churrera or a cake nozzle. 6. Heat oil. Pipe lengths of batter 6-8 cm long into the oil a few at a time. 7. Cook for about 3 minutes or until golden, turning once or twice. Cooking time 25 mins 8. Drain on paper towels and cover with sugar mixture.


a sweet treat...

Alfajores Ingredients:

Dulce de leche Ingredients: 1 can (405g) Sweetened Condensed Milk What you will need: 1 Large Pot (with lid) OR Pressure Cooker Water

Alfajores 5 cups all purpose white flour 1/2 cup confectioners sugar 1 3/4 cup salted butter 6 1/2 oz dulce de leche (or make your own!)

Directions: Place the whole can of condensed milk in a pot. Pour water to cover the whole can. The can should be completely submerged. Bring to boil, cover with lid, lower heat & simmer for 2 - 3 hrs. Alternatively, use a pressure cooker and cook for about 45 mins. Remove from water and cool under a cold tap.

Directions:

1. In a mixer, combine flour and sugar at low speed for 1 minute.
 2. Cut butter into small cubes. Add butter to flour mixture and continue mixing at low speed until it forms dough. Increase speed to medium and continue to mix for 30 seconds.
 3. Chill dough in the refrigerator for 2 hours before using. Preheat oven to 300°F.
 4. On a floured surface, use a rolling pin to roll out dough to ½-inch thickness.
 5. Cut dough into rounds using a 1½-inch round cutter.
 6. Place cookies ½ inch apart on sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake for 20 minutes.
 7. Immediately remove cookies from sheet pan and allow them to cool.
 8. Turn cookies over so that bottoms will be on the inside of the cookie sandwiches. Using either a spreader or a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch pastry tip, pipe or spread ½ tablespoons of dulce de leche over half the cookies, covering only the center of each one. Top with another cookie to form an alfajor sandwich cookie.
 9. Lightly dust the alfajores with confectioner’s sugar prior to serving.

Makes: 20 Biscuits Prep, Cooling & Cooking Time: 3 hours SPRING 2012 - 33 SPRING 2012 - 33


Bob Hart On Fire

In Melbourne, however, we often demonstrate tremendous flair in identifying cuisines likely to appeal to local audiences, adapting them to at least some local ingredients, but all the while keeping things refreshingly authentic. The way in which, at one CBD establishment (San Telmo), an accomplished Melbourne chef has mastered the tricky Argentinean “parilla” or open grill. He has adapted it to Australian produce, added some non-Argentinean elements to the mix, and yet kept it real. It’s our way. And occasionally, it turns out to be even better than “their” way. It can happen. My own particular culinary obsession - real barbecue - is also making its presence felt in Australia, even though it remains perhaps the most misunderstood cooking method in the country, largely because we tend to think, as a nation, that it is something we understand.

Australian’s are quickly coming to grips with Latin food, which is hardly surprising: it is, after all, the hottest culinary trend on the planet. And, frankly, we were due for a change. The "new" food that has captured our culinary imaginations is the food of Central and South America, the excitement of Brazilian dishes, the brilliance of Argentinean live-fire grills, the mystery of Peruvian inflections and, especially, the in-your-face appeal of authentic, street-savvy Mexican. New food styles catch on quickly in Australia. Which is, perhaps, our way of compensating for our sluggish and unpromising culinary origins as a nation - enslaved, from the time of white settlement, by Anglo-Celtic stodge, perhaps the most tiresome tucker on the planet. We had some catching up to do... We should remember, however, that it is the height of arrogance and perhaps insularity to think of food cultures in terms of “fashion”: let’s not forget that food we may think of as “fashionable” has probably been adored in its countries of origin for hundreds of years. 34 - SPRING 2012

The manner in which Argentineans cook meat while it is wonderful, is not “barbecue”. Their approach is open, live-fire cooking which imparts flavour through the cooking method and not, as in real barbecue, through the use of slow cooking and woodsmoke. The cooking that most Australians think of as “barbecue” is, in fact, grilling. This can, as the Argentineans have demonstrated, be a brilliant method of achieving flavour. When we get it right, we can match the parilla by cooking on blistering-hot, covered grills, even gas ones, and making sure we impart dark grill-marks on the meats and vegetables we cook to add a distinct “charred”, caramelised or outdoor flavour to the process. Grill marks, on a fine cut of meat, look cool. But they are a lot more important than that: they mark the difference between exquisitely grilled meats, and meats that have been allowed to wallow, helplessly, in their own fat, and without any contact with flame, on those appalling things called hot plates. When it comes to an exciting new food trends, Latin food is certainly that.

Just give us a sniff and we will take a mile...



Connoisseurs Love Conosur. “the classic fruit paste�

Artisanship From The Ages.

conosurfruitpastes.com

The Latin tradition of combining cheeses with hand made fruit pastes at the end of a meal is a long and proud one. Conosur pastes provide the palate with sophisticated and complex blends. Fully sliceable, they can also be used to transform a salad or melted to augment sauces and dressings. Available from your local deli.

Conosur: a blend of Australian soul and Latin Spirit.

hand made

australian made

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