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BEYOND COUTURE Participating designers & labels
Aycan Başoğlu Ece Çavuşoğlu Ferrari Zöchling Dimitrije Gojkovic Patricia Narbón Natures of Conflict Emre Tamer Jana Wieland Natalie Zipfl
Introduction beyond couture A Cross-Cultural Collaboration in Contemporary Fashion Design The Austrian Cultural Forum Istanbul, AUSTRIANFASHION.NET and Lenzing Elyaf A.S. are presenting a joint exhibition at the Bosporus. Nine inspiring designers from Vienna and Istanbul show unique, handcrafted items made from the high-quality natural materials of the TENCELTM premium brand. The Palais Yenikรถy, which houses the Austrian Cultural Forum, provides the perfect setting for the exhibition. The installation of the unique designs runs parallel to the 4th Istanbul Design Biennial of the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. The theme of this cross-platform Biennale is the role of design, knowledge and global networking in present-day Istanbul and beyond. Various educational strategies are used to question and reconsider the theory of design and to reveal processes of change. As part of this theme, Beyond Couture shows visionary fashion designs of a young generation of designers. Their multifaceted theories and design practices are essentially characterised by the institutions at which they studied, including the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, the University of Art and Design in Linz, Central Saint Martins in London, the Institute of Fashion Design in Basel and Vakko Esmod in Istanbul. The title Beyond Couture refers to the disruptive position of a new generation of designers using artistic means as they strive for ecological and political correctness in the maelstrom of postmodern trends. Ecological and social imbalance results in a new kind of seeing and understanding, even if the creation often remains fragmentary and a symptom of a transition phase in which the old is still present and the new not yet clearly recognisable (cf. Gramsci, 1971). Getting together at the Bosporus, the designers will turn their studios into a laboratory, combining traditional and experimental handcraft with new technologies. Techniques such as embroidery, hand-sewing, surface treatment and laser cutting are used to create innovative and unique positions. Each draft stands for itself. Together, they form a basis for
using breathable, high-quality natural materials, environmentally friendly production and innovative creative processes that expand the boundaries of contemporary fashion design. For the globally operating Lenzing Group, the cooperation marks the establishment of a new location in Istanbul. Lenzing has been producing fibres made of wood for 80 years – in a resource-friendly way and with unique sustainable technologies. TENCEL™ is Lenzing’s new premium textile brand for diverse, specific applications and appears under the slogan “Feels so right”. The exhibition is curated by AUSTRIANFASHION.NET under the artistic direction of Claudia Rosa Lukas. Since 2012, she has been working with national and international art and culture institutions to develop new curatorial concepts, interdisciplinary creative processes and educational programmes at the interface between fashion, design, new media and textile craftsmanship. Her previous exhibitions were presented in London, Shanghai, Berlin, Paris and Vienna. Beyond Couture aims to create a new space that focuses on visionary design and innovative manufacturing techniques and is based on the idea of cultural exchange.
Dress by Jana Wieland
Juliana O. in the garden of the historic Palais Yeniköy on the shores of the Bosporus. Vogue fashion editorial shot by Selçuk Danyıldız
Natalie Zipfl Natures of Conflict
Juliana O. @ TRUE Models Photographs: Selçuk Danyıldız Make-up Artist: Ece Karagülle Hair Artist: Mehmet Menteş
Emre Tamer
beyond couture
Dimitrije Gojkovic
Ece Çavuşoğlu
Ferrari Zöchling
Aycan Başoğlu
Patricia Narbรณn
beyond couture
Aycan Başoğlu (TR) Born in 1980 in Istanbul, Aycan began her undergraduate sociology degree at METU, Ankara, completing her studies in that field at the University of Strasbourg in France. She continued her education in fashion design and pattern making at Vakko Esmod Fashion Academy in Istanbul. In 2013 she won the “golden needle” award with her graduation collection “Detach/ed”. Alongside launching her own white shirt company, she worked for designer brands. The designer prefers questioning over assuming, asymmetry over symmetry, the disruptive over the repetitive – likes black as well as white. Aycan, who has pursued her passion to create the concrete out of the abstract, is an earthly dreamer, finding inspiration in inner feelings as well as social and cultural influences. She currently teaches at Vakko Esmod. Instagram @aycanbasoglu
Collection nötr, Fall/Winter 2014/15 Photograph: Bahadırhan Erkoç Model: Juliana M. Ohneberg
Ece ÇavuĹ&#x;oÄ&#x;lu (TR) Born in 1991 in Istanbul, Ece graduated from the Vakko Esmod fashion design and pattern making diploma programme in her hometown. She has since worked for various designer brands and popular magazines, and has participated as a styling assistant in editorial photo shoots for many highprofile Turkish brands. Ece mostly gathers inspiration from nature and the animal kingdom, and is also interested in Japanese culture and Japanese fashion in particular. She is a passionate animal rights activist and an avid diver, drawing on her love of the sea to translate it into her design pieces, emphasising fluidity and depth. She is currently working as an assistant instructor for pattern making at Vakko Esmod. Instagram @ece_cavusoglu
Ece Çavuşoğlu Make up: Merve Saldere Model: Vildan Naçar
Ferrari Zöchling (AT) The young, Vienna-based womenswear label FERRARI ZÖCHLING was founded in 2013 and has been putting great emphasis on working closely with fellow creatives ever since. Its chief designer, Romana Zöchling, continuously invites designers and other creatives to collaborate on one-off projects, producing diverse and beautiful collections. The label’s fundamental design concept draws inspiration from Severin Koller’s analogue photographs, which, after being printed on silk or viscose, are then integrated into the collections. All FERRARI ZÖCHLING products are made exclusively in Austria and are also available made-to-measure, inviting customers to have an even more personal relationship to the pieces. http://www.ferrarizoechling.com/ Instagram @ferrarizoechling
FERRARI ZÖCHLING SS18 Textile Prints in cooperation with Marianne Vlaschits Photograph: Lisa Edi Models: Rosa and Joy Make up & Hair: Lauri Fuchs
Dimitrije Gojkovic (AT/SRB) Croatian-born Dimitrije Gojkovic’s ability to create an atmosphere with his clothes was clearly present from his beginnings and his 2015 graduate collection. He plays with materials, taking up challenges and transforming everyday connotations into something completely different. Using clean lines and sharp tailoring to introduce a modern feel to his collections, he borrows from traditional handcraft techniques and material to inject a spark of heritage into the pieces. He completed his studies and apprenticeships in Serbia and Switzerland, then moved to Austria to attend Vienna’s University of Applied Arts. Studying under three legendary professors – Veronique Branquinho, Bernhard Willhelm and Hussein Chalayan – meant that Gojkovic was exposed to diversity, inspiration, and great talents, sharpening his already precise eye for design. http://newwool.tumblr.com/ Instagram @dimitrije.gojkovic
Collection New Wool, 2015 Photograph: Yasmina Haddad Model: Sophie Rechtberger
Patricia Narbรณn (AT/ESP) NARBON is a Vienna-based demi-couture label focused on handmade embroidery and embellishments, founded by Spanish-born designer Patricia Narbรณn. Recognised by the use of traditional techniques such as tambour beading and contemporary ones like 3D-printing or laser cutting, the brand promotes the use of technological advances to further the handicraft of fashion design. Graduating in 2018, Patricia Narbรณn studied fashion design under the tutorship of Hussein Chalayan, and prior to that under the guidance of Bernhard Willhelm at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. All the garments and accessories are designed and handmade in Barcelona or Vienna in a sustainable and respectful way, using local sourcing and fair treatment. http://narbonpatricia.com/ Instagram @narbonpatricia
Candelaria Photographs: Vrinda Jelinek Models: @tinyaila, @ettolrensuart, Lena Heuer, Kerstin Brueller and Antonia Stephanie Gloessel Make up & Hair: @naomzz, @itsberra
Natures of Conflict (AT) Natures of Conflict was established in 2008 by Kathrin Lugbauer and Nora Berger, both graduates of the University of Applied Arts Vienna, where they studied under Veronique Branquinho and Raf Simons. The label uses fashion as a means of exploring issues related to the self and contemporary society. The designers draw inspiration from the functional aesthetic of classic workwear and uniforms, combining it with sophisticated, subtle details to create a simple, honest wardrobe that has a familiar quality. Their clothes are designed to appeal to a broad range of people, and are free of the fast-paced dictates of the fashion industry. Natures of Conflict incorporates feminine lines into their womenswear collections, yet there is also an androgynous quality to their clothes, visible in their preference for elements of masculine tailoring. http://www.naturesofconflict.com/ Instagram @natures_of_conflict
The Seasonal N°7 Photograph: Lisa Edi
Emre Tamer (AT/TR) The Austrian-Turkish designer and artist Emre Tamer graduated from the University of Applied Arts Vienna under the tutelage of Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho, winning two awards for his exceptional work, and moving on to successfully present his first solo collection at the FASHIONCLASH festival in Maastricht. He was also nominated as best newcomer at the Mittelmoda Fashion Awards. He gathered international working experience as a fashion design lecturer at Raffles Design Institute in Singapore and as a designer at the threeASFOUR label in New York City. His talent as an illustrator and painter merges beautifully with his modernist vision in fashion; he creates futuristic pieces sculpted through precise cutting and attention to detail. Emre currently works in Vienna and London. http://www.emretamer.at/ Instagram @emretamerfashionart
Fashionclash Maastricht 2013 Photograph: Peter Stigter
Jana Wieland (AT) Established in 2016, JANA WIELAND was founded by Austrian-born designer and model Jana Wieland. The Viennese label specialises in fresh and effortless women’s clothing, offering a contemporary wardrobe with bold and young silhouettes, which at the same time gently envelop the female body in elegance and buoyancy. Oversized pieces and transparent materials are recurrent in Wieland’s collections, in which she shares her own personal aesthetic directed towards simplicity and comfort. The label’s ethical intention is to let people discover that it is possible to wear great clothes that are also made in a sustainable way, while supporting the local economy and trying to combat the effects of fast fashion. http://www.janawieland.at/ Instagram @jana_wieland
Collection NOON Photograph: Darius Lucaciu & Julian Burlacu Model: Jana Wieland @ Wiener Models Special thanks to Julian Epok
Natalie Zipfl (AT/UK) Born in Vienna, Natalie Zipfl finished her education at the fashion school in Schloss Hetzendorf, Vienna, and started her bachelor studies in womenswear at Central Saint Martins aged 18. Over the years she has worked in London, New York and Paris. She was invited by LVHM to present her special creations in an exclusive event dealing with sustainability concepts in the fashion and textile industry. She worked for Iris van Herpen, before returning to do her final year in London. Natalie’s work is influenced by performance art; concepts are self-experienced and give impetus to the designs and the making process of her garments. One such project involved being blind and deaf for two days and working in complete solitude for weeks, in order to finish and understand certain projects. Her designs are honest and pure in how they are felt and meant, which automatically puts the wearer in the same position as the designer/artist. https://nataliezipfl.com Instgram @nataliezipfl
LVMH Sustainability Photographs: Natalie Zipfl
Beyond Couture A Cross-Cultural Collaboration in Contemporary Fashion Design 23 October – 16 November, 2018 Palais Yeniköy/ACF Istanbul Beyond Couture runs parallel to the 4th Istanbul Design Biennial of the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts
Team AUSTRIANFASHION.NET www.austrianfashion.net Concept and Curator Claudia Rosa Lukas Editors Hildegard Suntinger, Claudia Rosa Lukas, Manuela Mitevova Translations and Copy Editing Andrea Schellner, Mý Huê McGowran Graphic Design Eva Schuster Published by AUSTRIANFASHION.NET Team Austrian Cultural Forum Istanbul www.bmeia.gv.at/kf-istanbul Director Romana Königsbrun Deputy Director Olgu Çoban Project Management: Halide Aktaş, Alexander Heinz, Carmen Schrettl Exhibition Set-up and Technicians Ibrahim Zengin, Gökhan Zengin Team Lenzing Elyaf A.S. www.lenzing.com Head of Business Development & Marketing Hale Saraçoğlu Business Development Manager İlkşen Dedeoğlu Demiray Business Development & Marketing Assistant Manager Bengi Ergon Photographer Selçuk Danyıldız
BEYOND COUTURE is generously supported by
The Arts and Culture Division of the Federal Chancellery of Austria
Cooperation Partner
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publishers. All images courtesy of the participating designers and artists.
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