IN A STATE OF CHANGE
IN THIS ISSUE
MENA LOMBARD PISLA
RUCHT D’OLEO-SCHWARTZ TAYLOR CROSLEY JULIANNA SUPLICKI
September 2022 Year III, Vol. 21-A
RUSSIAN MILITARY ACTIONS IN
AVESSA HAS BEEN OBSERVING WITH GREAT SADNESS THE TRAGIC SITUATION IN UKRAINE AND WISHES TO EXPRESS OUR SUPPORT AND SOLIDARITY TO ALL THOSE SEVERELY AFFECTED BY THIS WAR. OUR FIRST CONCERN IS THE SAFETY OF ALL THE PEOPLE WHO WERE UNWILLINGLY IMPACTED AND HURT BY THIS
AGGRESSION. POLITICS IS DIVISIVE BY DEFINITION, BUT
AT AVESSA CANNOT STAND BY
THE COURAGEOUS POSITION TAKEN BY THE
FIGHT AGAINST THIS
OF
WE ARE CATEGORICALLY AGAINST THE
UKRAINE СКАЖИ НІ ВІЙНІ WE WILL BE SUPPORTING FASHION BRANDS FROM UKRAINE THROUGH OUR MEDIA CHANNELS AT NO COST, PLEASE CONTACT US INFO@AVESSA.COM
UNPROVOKED
WE
WITHOUT ACKNOWLEDGING
PEOPLE
UKRAINE TO
UNJUSTIFIED ASSAULT ON THEIR SOVEREIGNTY. WE ARE ON YOUR SIDE
EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT AVESSABAZAAR.COM
EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT AVESSABAZAAR.COM
POSCHEMODELS.COM | AGENCY@POSCHEMODELS.COM 5 W 37TH ST, SUITE 531 NEW YORK CITY, NY 10018 +1 (646) 205-3023 1350 E SUNRISE BLVD, SUITE 107 FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33304 +1 (954) 524-2743
www.ku-den.jp
DOPE TAVIO, STUDMUFFINNYC AND OTHER ARTISTS ARE AVAILABLE AT PATRICIAFIELD.COM
BALIAWEAR.COM | @BALIAWEAR
KRELWEAR.COM | @KRELWEAR
Fashion Accessories marrerocollection.com
SEPTEMBER /2022 028 OBJECTS OF DESIRE by Carlos Marrero 030 WALKING ON SUNSHINE by Agathe Damas-Hottinguer 036 ONCE UPON A SHIRT styling Natasha Tabunova | featuring Pisla 044 SHE COMES IN EVERY COLOR by Juanita Crary | featuring Julianna Suplicki 050 METAMORPHOSIS by Mena Lombard 062 FROM BELIEF TO DELUSION story by Mena Lombard & Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta creative direction and styling by Raniel Betancourt & Juanita Garcia 078 THE EMBROIDERED SOUL OF UKRAINE by Liubov Lavreniuk 096 LIVE ANOTHER CHANGE by Dana Yurglich 102 IN THE SPOTLIGHT: RUCHT D’OLEO-SCHWARTZ presented by The Fashion Group International of South Florida 106 THE FUTURE BELONGS TO THOSE WHO BELIEVE by Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta | featuring Taylor Crosley 112 PASSION & PURPOSE AND PERHAPS A LITTLE SHAME story by Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta 116 THIS IS ABOUT MY TITS AND MY VAGINA, NOT ABOUT YOU by Virginia Mayer 124 METAMORPHOLUTISM story by Ibtissam El Azami 130 IN THE LAND OF GUCCI, PUCCI & FIORUCCI by Mena Lombard 136 ZODIAC: VIRGO by Manish Arora
There are many things in life that I do not believe in. Yes, I am a skeptic by nature. But there is one thing I do firmly believe: that our destiny is defined by our own actions. And the journey ahead is not smooth and does not happen over night - it is often an excruci ating process. That happens because the real world is not what we imagine it is. To change our mindsets, have more success in our careers, and be a better person, we need to be continuously aware and quickly adapt ourselves. That’s why transformations are so significant; it’s when we genuinely understand our surroundings and take proper actions to modify what is not working in our lives. This is sue is all about those changes and that long metamorphic journey we all go through at a certain point in our lives. Like everyone else, I also am in constant motion, evolving our publication for, hope fully, this world’s good.
EDITOR’S LETTER
ON THE COVER FASHION DESIGNER: MENA LOMBARD
PHOTOGRAPHER
FLÁVIO IRYODA
MODEL:
NATALIA KALINOWSKA
HAIR &
MAKE-UP ARTIST: EDOARDO DE FALCO
MODELING AGENCY:
I AM MANAGEMENT
SPECIAL THANKS:
SIMONE MARTE, GIORGIO CAMPONESCHI, MATTEO BASTREGHI
Miami International University of Art & Design is one of The Art Institutes, a system of schools throughout the United States. Programs, credential levels, technology, and scheduling options vary by school and are subject to change. Not all programs are available to residents of all U.S. states. 1501 Biscayne Blvd., Ste. 100, Miami, FL 33132. © 2021. The Arts Institutes International LLC. All rights reserved. THE EDUCATION IS HANDS-ON. THE FUTURE IS WIDE OPEN. Where will your passion take you? Find out. WWW.MYMIU.EDU AIMIUinternational@aii.edu 1.305.428.5903 The same creativity that sets you apart can make you part of our creative community. And if you are passionate about Fashion, Miami International University of Art & Design is the place to be. We'll help you turn your love of Fashion into the pursuit of a career that loves you back. We offer a range of associate and bachelor's degree programs including Fashion Design, Fashion Merchandising & Accessory Design. You'll learn by doing-applying the same talent, tools, and techniques used in the industry
OUR TEAM OF
MENA LOMBARD
@menalombard
Fashion Designer and Professor, Mena believes that fashion completely transcends the surface and the most important is how one feels rather than anything else. Fashion is really about how empowered one becomes by it. She channels vibrant flares of vintage fashion and dreams of contemporary twists, inspired by her own life and travels.
ALFONSO DE HOYOS @dehoyosa
Recovering from an obsession with Italiandesigned menswear, Alfonso decided to take a deeper look into women’s fashion to see how our relationship among clothing, society, and busi ness has changed. Educated as an economist with an MBA, he travels between Chicago, Miami, and Mexico on a search to see what happens next to fashion.
JUANITA CRARY @juaniavi
Fashion Stylist, Journalist, and fashion Professor with 15 years of experience. Juanita has worked for Rolling Stone South America, GQ Mexico, and multiple Colombian magazines. Her current soundtrack plays The Sisters of Mercy and her go-to garment will always be a motorcycle jacket even if it’s impossible to wear one all year round in Miami.
CARLOS MARRERO
@camarrero
Widely recognized for his tongue-in-cheek and informed critiques of the fashion, beauty and en tertainment industry, Carlos is a seasoned fashion illustrator, host of TRENDENCIAS and fash ion designer of Marrero Collection - a compila tion of alluring statement pieces designed for the fashionista looking for unique fashion items.
NATASHA TABUNOVA
@beyond.the
Natasha has been surrounded by art since her early years in Belarus, creating art and fashion since her early years with limited resources, zero knowledge, and much energy and passion. Her dream to become a Costume Designer came to life after graduation. She believes fashion is an endless field for playing games, especially if you like breaking rules.
DANA YURGLICH
@danayurglich
With a fashion buyer grandmother and Mack Sennett Studios producer as a great grandfather, Dana’s love for Old Hollywood and fashion ignited. Sparking wonder, accentuating one’s being, helping them reach their potential and knowing how valuable they are is always central to everything she does.
contributors
LIUBOV LAVRENIUK
@lyubalavrenyuk
Dedicated entrepreneur from Ukraine. Experi enced tutor and successful business wwner em phasizing up-to-date methods, the importance of high quality and targeted content. Motivated professional bringing a 12-year career in small business ownership. Business development and education worker who quickly masters new con cepts and technologies. A happy mother.
VIRGINIA MAYER
@doloritassufrida
Virginia decided to be a writer because nothing else gives her such joy. She then became an author by publishing ‘Polaroids’ (her first novel) plus opinion pieces and literary journalism in Colom bia. These days, she’s living in Bogotá, writing her second novel, and working as a script writer & investigator.
AGATHE DAMAS HOTTINGUER
Since she was a young girl, Agathe became com mitted to her love of fashion. In primary school she ravenously read critiques of fashion shows and dreamed of writing her own take on the styles and looks presented across the world. Al though never formally trained in fashion design, Agathe realized she was destined for fashion.
MANISH ARORA
@manishastrologer
Renowned KP Astrologer, Numerologist, Tarot Reader Vastu Consultant. He has been rendering professional advice to clients with a high degree of success. He has been conferred with the title of Jyotish Varahamihir and Jyotish Aryabhatt. Manish has been writing monthly astrological columns for 40+ international magazines.
FLÁVIO IRYODA
@flavio.iryoda
“I’m here to confuse, not to explain”, once said the poet. With a peculiar taste of the unex pected and tendency to break clichés, Flávio be lieves there are no boundaries to express fashion through photography. Uncertainty, confusion and unease drives his desires to create curiosity (or disgust) for those who experience his work.
IBTISSAM EL AZAMI
@theburnoutbrand
Ibtissam, aka Azami or The Burn Out Brand in make-up artistry, is a fashion make-up artist, con tent and copywriter, and a social media manager. Her attention for detail allows for unique works of art, focused on finesse and graphic shapes. Af ter the conquest of Paris and London, she is now in Rome, where she lets the sun inspire her day in and day out.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Flávio Iryoda
EDITORS
Fashion & Culture Mena Lombard
Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta
Ibtissam El Azami
Virginia Mayer
Dana Yurglich
Fashion Styling Juanita Crary
Karo Delgobbo Erika Ishibashi
Product Carlos Marrero
Travel Tamara Almeida Zodiac Manish Arora
Associate Producers Natasha Tabunova
Karo Delgobbo Carlos Pardo
Quality Assurance Alfonso de Hoyos-Acosta
Art Director Luiz Camargo Sales Flávio Iryoda Giu Brandão
DIGITAL
Available year-round at avessamag.com
PRINT
We are now printing in small batches. Contact us if you’re interested! On-demand printing, worldwide delivered at www.magcloud.com/user/avessa.
CONTACT US
Questions or comments?
info@avessamag.com
CONSUMER SERVICES
AVESSA Magazine is a digital and print on-demand publication focused on fashion, lifestyle and em powerment for the independent and contemporary woman. Founded in early 2019 with main opera tions in Miami, FL (Brickell) and a wide network of collaborators distributed across the globe.
PUBLISHER
AVESSA Media Group LLC
Brickell - Miami, FL 33130
United States of America
A PROUD MEMBER OF
© 2022 AVESSA Media Group LLC, a Florida limited liability corporation. All rights reserved. The information contained herein is of a general nature and is not intended to address the circumstances of any particular individual or entity. Although we endeavor to provide accurate and timely information, there can be no guarantee that such information is accurate as of the date it is received or that it will continue to be accurate in the future. No one should act on such information without appropriate professional advice after a through examination of the particular situation.
DIOR
Gray Mask Sunglasses. The transparent gray acetate and gold-finish metal frame contrasts with white line details and a ‘CHRISTIAN DIOR’ signature. The gray lens lends a contemporary Dior look. $590 / dior.com
COOL PICKS TO KEEP YOU HAUTE
Don’t let the warm weather keep tou from being cool
BY CARLOS MARRERO
LOGO LEATHER BELT
Christian Louboutin. The CL logo belt draws the eye with its striking signature clasp and exquisite craftsmanship. This model is 35 mm wide and crafted in luxurious smooth Calf Paris leather with a modern Nude finish and a signature red interior. $450 / christianlouboutin.com
TOM FORD
Lavender Extrême Eau de Parfum 1.7 oz. Excessively luxe, Lavender Extrême per fume merges lavender from Provence’s Hautes-Alpes region with amber-like lavender from the valley. $390 / nordstrom.com
VALENTINO VLOGO
Signature Large Dragon Tote Bag. Valentino textured and smooth calf leather tote bag with sequin dragon Features VLOGO accent on front Flat top handles Open top Inte rior, one slip pocket Approx. Made in Italy.
$3,900 / bergdorfgoodman.com
AUGUSTINUS BADER
The Rich Cream. Formu lated with high potency botanicals rich in omega 6 fatty acids and antioxidants this cream helps to revive the complexion and help soothe dryness for skin that looks and feels smoother, softer and more supple. Backed by 30 years of vi sionary science. Powered by TFC8®. 1 oz.
$175 / dermstore.com
OBJECTS OF DESIRE
28 | SEPTEMBER 2022
SMEG
Dolce & Gabbana 2-Slice Toaster. Two-slice toaster with illustration inspired by traditional Sicilian terracotta vases adorned in the manner of bummuli and quattare. Six browning levels and three pre-set programs, including reheat, de frost and bagel functions. $650 / bloomingdales.com
OFF-WHITE
Lavander Jelly Slingback Flat Sandals with Open Toe with, band upper, Adjustable slingback strap and Signature logo zip tag. Made in Italy. $225 / neimanmarcus.com
ULTIMATTE MATTE LIPSTICK
Zara. This cult-favorite lipstick is formulated with ultra-fine pigments and nourishing fruit oils and extracts for bold color, even ap plication, and soft, lasting wear. Color: KNOCKOUT. $15.90 / zara.com
CITY OF LIKES
By Jenny Mollen. A wickedly funny and sharply insightful novel about mother hood, female friendships, and the seduc tive allure of social media culture from the New York Times bestselling author of I Like You Just The Way I Am and Live Fast Die Hot. Hardcover. $24.99 / amazon.com
29SEPTEMBER 2022 |
WALKING
ON RUNWAY 30 | SEPTEMBER 2022
SUNSHINE BY AGATHE DAMASHOTTINGUER
PHOTOGRAPHER SIMON SOONG
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT PEDRO MELENDEZ, KENYA GUEVARA, PABLO PALOMEQUE, ANASTASIO GIANNOUTSOS, VALENTINA PENARANDA AND DANA EL GHOUL
31SEPTEMBER 2022 |
Fashion Department Chair, Oscar Lopez, has worked hard to foster and grow this criti cal relationship, “For the past five years, we have been working with Paraiso swim week, which is an incredible opportunity for the students.” This year both students and se lected graduates had the chance to dazzle the public and the attending fashion industry. MIU takes pride in leading trends instead of just following them, and at Swim Week, they made a compelling case for elegance, playful ness, and mischievous allure in swimwear.
Carolina Rinchere, who won the Overall Design Award, opened the show. She present ed a black bandeau bikini top and a high-cut bottom paired with a stunning coverup comprised of ruffled black sleeves and a transparent cape with a golden sheen embroidered with shimmering black florals. This look evoked a sensual evening at a glittering hotel pool party with bubbly drinks flowing.
Taylor Crosley, who won the Avessa Edito rial Award, presented a strappy navy blue bi kini matched with a bronze metallic cover-up. The cover-up’s top had imaginative cutouts that allowed a beguiling amount of decolletage but maintained a demure mandarin neckline
and short princess sleeves. The look is effort lessly completed with a low-slung mermaid skirt fitted close to the hips in the same shim mering bronze fabric with a hint of copper weaving through.
There was a pair of swimwear displayed by Gustavo Cadile that also epitomized the glamor ous loungewear trend. One model wore a lovely black bikini with a high-waisted bottom and a head-turning black transparent maxi coverup. The coverup had a beautiful, ruffled collar in gauzy fabric dusted throughout with demure polka-dots and black feathers trimming the bottom of the garment. The second model wore a black high-cut string bikini bottom with a sexily intriguing sheer cover-up shown in place of a bikini top. The coverup used the same transparent black gauze but now with a sparkling lace turtleneck and stripes of lace in a diamond pattern. The sleeves were fulllength and layered in additional black gauze.
The MIU runway also highlighted other trend-setting designs with sophisticated yet spirited colors and impeccable tailoring, which elevated the clothes from being simple swimwear that is seen simply getting wet and sandy on the beach. Pedro Melendez present
ONCE AGAIN, MIAMI INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF ART AND DESIGN PARTNERED WITH PARAISO TO PRESENT THEIR STUDENT’S INNOVATIVE SWIMWEAR DURING MIAMI SWIM WEEK 2022
RUNWAY 32 | SEPTEMBER 2022
ed a pair of one-piece color-blocked swimwear in a beautiful palette of juicy peach, tan, white and black. The suits were enormously playful and elegant. One pair was an athletic body suit with tasteful shorts whose colors were ingeniously arranged to hint at a peach bikini layered on top. You could see this outfit easily worn at the beach or on a sun-kissed lush wa terfront with many shops and restaurants sur rounded by palms and candy-colored tropical flowers.
A crowd favorite was Katherine Molina’s lime green bikini. It was a stunning, sculpted outfit that played with the imagery of sea chains used to control or block navigation across a body of water. The top had a portrait neckline garnished with thick chains made of the same fabric with buttons on the side. In stead of strings, the high-cut bikini bottom again uses the imagery of wide chain links. Katherine’s outfit was daring in its silhouette and sheer joy.
Gregory Flesh, who won the Menswear Award, provided a pair of men’s swim trunks in eye-catching vibrant colors that remained complimentary with each other and their ac cessories. Gregory had fun with his designs,
but they were beautifully tailored and fitted. Climbing, a very tough sport, inspired his work, yet he was still successful in creating elegant clothes. The first design had longer board shorts in a coral color that reminded us of azaleas and black mesh side pockets. These shorts were paired with a turquoise climbing harness, golden yellow rope, and carabiners. The second pair of shorts were slightly short er, with the same yellow gold but this time in a trim belt and harness. It was cheekily paired with a coral-colored yoga mat.
A men’s look that also harkened to the early 20th century was Natasha Tabunova’s men’s swimsuit. It clearly references the infamous one-piece men’s bathing suit worn close to a century ago. Natasha’s design was a unitard with a deep-cut tank top and snug-fitting pair of shorts. The brilliant fabric had differ ent width stripes in lemony yellow, navy blue, white, and Kelly green. Although beautifully cut with brilliant colors, what stood out were the frond-shaped cutouts along the side of the suit. This swimsuit evoked imaginative sea plants and old glamor, but at the same time, it was racy, beautiful, and unique.
Cuban-born Alejandro Barzaga won the
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT
CAROLINA RINCHERE, OVERALL DESIGN AWARD
ALEJANDRO BARZAGA: AVANT-GARDE AWARD
TAYLOR CROSLEY: AVESSA EDITIRUAL AWARD GREGORY FLESH: MENSWEAR AWARD
33SEPTEMBER 2022 |
KATHERINE MOLINA
MELANIE BORJAS
ATELIER D’OCON BY MARIA D’OCON
NATASHA TABUNOVA
CHEVIA ROACH-SEGALL
RENE BY RR
JULIAN CHANG
VANIA ZELAYA
ANDREA NOVA
Avant-Garde Award with his eye-popping, gorgeous uni tard with long sleeves and legs. It was paired with an exqui sitely tailored coat that pooled behind the model. Alejandro is, at heart, a pure artist, and he custom-created the red and white fabric for his design. This piece was created to elongate the body and was daringly skintight with a demure semi-turtleneck. The coat was equally eye-catching but cut to enhance grace and drama. One of Alejandro’s ancestors was from the Yucatan peninsula and inhabited for at least 7,000 years by the Mayan indigenous people. The Yucatec language spoken by the Mayan Empire was documented in the ancient hieroglyphs of several Pre-Columbian archaeo
logical sites. One can imagine this mesmerizing swimwear worn by a Mayan priestess or noble as she walked from the verdant emerald-green rainforests and mangroves into the brilliant blue Gulf of Mexico.
MIU students and grads provided a unique runway highlighting existing swimwear trends and pushing the boundaries to offer outstanding, never-boring swim and re sort wear. Everyone at MIU was grateful for this opportu nity and recognized the prospects for additional success. As Alejandro Barzaga stated: “For us, this is a great opportuni ty because we are going to present our work in the industry where almost every single brand is going to be there.”
GUSTAVO CADILE
35SEPTEMBER 2022 |
Once upon a SHIRT The white blouse, an ICONIC FASHION GARMENT, received a fresh styling by using its CRISP, CLEAN LOOK as a FOUNDATION PIECE. It bringsELEGANCE and MODERNITY to ANY OUTFIT and is one of the MOST VERSATILE ITEMS. It can be the KEY TO TURNING uniqueACCESSORIES into an INCREDIBLE OUTFIT. It’s UNIVERSAL and MATCHES ANY COLOR; bringingBALANCE to outfits with VIBRANT COLORS.
Styling NATASHA TABUNOVA Shirt by PISLA
STYLING
36 | SEPTEMBER 2022
PHOTO CREDITS SHIRT: PISLA, AVAILABLE AT AVESSABAZAAR.COM FASHION STYLIST: NATASHA TABUNOVA FEMALE MODEL: ALLEYA SLAGTER MODELING AGENCY: POSCHE MODELS MALE MODEL: HLEB TABUNOU HAIR & MAKE-UP ARTIST: MILI ROTTJER PHOTOGRAPHER: FLÁVIO IRYODA
SUNSET ON THE BEACH WEARING THE BLOUSE WITH JEANS IN AN UNCOMPLICATED WAY EVOKES DREAMY NIGHTS ON THE BEACH AS YOU GAZE AT THE SUNSET. COMFORTABLE? FOR SURE, BUT STILL ELEGANT AND SEDUCTIVE.
STYLING
38 | SEPTEMBER 2022
WINE AND DINING MEN SHOULD NOT BE LEFT OUT OF THE FUN. THIS BLOUSE IS USED AS A TRADITIONAL WHITE SHIRT THAT ELEVATES A MASCULINE OUTFIT INTO SOMETHING MORE RELAXING AND LUXURIOUS, ENTRANCING YOU TO GET CLOSER.
39SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CYCLE LOVE MANY OF US, AT TIMES, WANT TO BE REGARDED AS A TOUGHER, “DON’T MESS WITH ME” VERSION OF OURSELVES. NONETHELESS, WE DON’T WANT TO SCARE OFF GORGEOUS BIKERS. SO, PAIRING SKINTIGHT LEGGINGS AND A BRA-STYLE TOP CREATES A LOOK THAT ATTRACTS, NOT REPELS.
STYLING
40 | SEPTEMBER 2022
GLAMOROUS AND ENIGMATIC THE TONE-ON-TONE LACE BODY SUIT AND PEARLS HARNESS ARE EXQUISITE BY THEMSELVES. BUT AFTER BEING PAIRED WITH A WHITE BLOUSE, THE LOOK SOFTENS TO SOMETHING THAT CAN EASILY BE WORN TO A LESS AVANT-GARDE OVER-THE-TOP EVENT. BUT BE READY TO BE ADMIRED, TALKED ABOUT, AND LOOKED AT.
|
41SEPTEMBER 2022
ECHOES OF BRIDGERTON PAIRED WITH A COLORFUL CORSET, BRINGING SEXY BACK INTO OUR WARDROBES, THE WHITE BLOUSE IS THE GLUE THAT HOLDS TOGETHER THE BOLDER PIECES. THIS OUTFIT IS ABOUT FEELING EMPOWERED, CONFIDENT, AND HAVING FUN. PLUS, NOTHING SAYS SEXY LIKE ROCKING YOUR UNDERWEAR AS OUTERWEAR.
STYLING
42 | SEPTEMBER 2022
COUNTRY CHIC A WHITE BLOUSE PAIRED WITH FLAMBOYANT COWBOY BOOTS AND AN ORNATE WESTERN BELT PROVIDES A SOPHISTICATED OUTFIT. THE BLOUSE CAN HELP TRANSFORM THE IDIOSYNCRATIC AND BOLD LOOKS OF WESTERN ACCESSORIES INTO HIGHER FASHION.
43SEPTEMBER 2022 |
SHE COMES IN EVERY COLOR BY JUANITA CRARY
JULIANNA SUPLICKI IS A 21-YEAR-OLD WOMAN WHO ATTENDS MY MONDAY, 8:00 AM FASHION TRENDS CLASS AT THE MIAMI INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF ART AND DESIGN. I THINK SHE WAS WEARING
SOMETHING DARK WHEN I MET HER, I CAN’T REMEMBER WELL, BUT I KNOW I WAS VERY IMPRESSED BECAUSE OF HER WARM AND KIND APPROACH TO INTRODUCING AND EXCUSING HERSELF FOR BEING
ONE WEEK LATE TO CLASS AS SHE HAD JUST MOVED FROM CLEARWATER, FL. SHE MANIFESTED BEING VERY MOTIVATED TO BE IN MIAMI BECAUSE HER VIEWS WOULD FINALLY MAKE SENSE, AT AN EMERGING FASHION CAPITAL SCHOOL. I SAID YES WHEN SHE ASKED IF I WANTED TO SEE HER INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT, AND THAT’S WHEN MY EYES POPPED AS I WENT THROUGH HER IMAGES IN AWE, I COULDN’T STOP THINKING: DOES SHE KNOW WHAT SHE WAS WEARING? SO I ASKED AND SUDDENLY HER CONVERSATION SHOWED GREAT KNOWLEDGE ABOUT DESIGNERS, FABRICS, MATERIALS, AND CRAFTSMANSHIP THAT SADLY, IS VERY UNCOMMON IN YOUNGER PEOPLE.
STYLING
44 | SEPTEMBER 2022
PHOTO COURTESY: JULIANNA SUPLICKI
THIS
LOOK
SHIRT:
SALAMANDER, PANTS: CUSTOM, SHOES: GUCCI
The photography was great, especially when I found out that the whole production team behind her editorial luxury fashion images was a one-man show: All the credits belong to her. She is her own fashion editor and has been creating stunning amateur fashion visuals for her Instagram account since 2018. Showing off her dedicated curation of her private collection of precious pieces of apparel and accessories from high end brands and even already pricey pieces designed by herself and commissioned to professional jewelers and tailors that bring to life the crazy ideas that constantly pop in her colorful brain.
Her inspiration is nature, animals, and minerals especially. She loves them both and collects the latter while enjoying life with a regal-looking Maine Coon cat. You would think that someone who owns a rare blouse from the Jean Paul Gaultier’s FW 1998 must be a millionaire, but she isn’t. Proof that you just need to be good at fashion research and have a good eye when shopping for second-hand luxury fashion, which is Julianna’s favorite.
STYLING CLOCKWISE STARTING ON THIS PAGE JACKET: DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, SHIRT: COMME DES GARÇONS, SHOES: ANINE BING. SHIRT: GUCCI, BAG: COACH, SHORTS: THEFRANKIESHOP, SHOES: MARTINE ROSE. HOODIE: VERSACE, SKIRT: YOHJI YAMAMOTO, SHOES: GUCCI. SHIRT: RAF SIMONS, SHORTS: BURBERRY, SHOES: MARGIELA, BELT: PETER DO SWEATER: NUMBER NINE, JACKET: DESIGNED BY HERSELF - STUDIOS ARTEFACTS, PANTS: PETER DO, BUTTON SASH: STEFAN COOKE. KIMONO: VINTAGE JAPANESE ORIGINAL, PANTS: VINTAGE, SHOES: RICK OWENS. 46 | SEPTEMBER 2022
STYLING
And the reason why she loves it is not just because of how obvious it is that she has fun with it, but be cause of her appreciation for quality. She saves mon ey, does her homework to know a lot about her favor ite designers, and finds pieces that most people would not be after because they don’t dare to be fabulous when dressing.
Definitely, someone to have your eyes on, Florida. Disciplined, driven, and hungry to show the world that Miami is not just uniformed tanned mannequins in bodycon dresses, fake lashes and waist-length hair exten sions, and can actually be creative and forward. The following is a selection of some of her self-portraits in a neutral dominated palette, which took forever to curate because it was so difficult to chose from such a well crafted catalog. A reminder for those who dare to follow her path, she’s not just muted tones, she’s a rainbow.
PANTS: DESIGNED BY HERSELF, JACKET: ACNE STUDIOS, BAG: BALENCIAGA, SHOES: YVES SAINT LAURENT.
JACKET: ADER ERROR, PANTS: Y-PROJECT, TIE: DESIGNED BY HERSELF - DEWOLFE LEATHER GOODS, SHIRT: YSL, BAG: IEIRB - TOKYO LEATHER ATELIER, SHOES: CK205W39NYC
JACKET: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, SHIRT: YVES SAINT LAURENT, SKIRT: Y PROJECT, SHOES: MARGIELA, AND SASH IS STEFAN COOKE.
HAT: VINTAGE, SWEATER: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, PANTS: ARMY OF ME, SHOES: RICK OWENS, VEST: IERIB - TOKYO LEATHER ATELIER.
SHIRT: ARCHIVE JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, PANTS: DESIGNED BY HERSELF - DEWOLFE LEATHER GOODS, VEST: IERIB - TOKYO LEATHER ATELIER, SHOES: RICK OWENS.
CLOCKWISE STARTING ON THE LEFT PAGE PANTS AND HAT: HEDIRAISER, BAG: JACKSON AND HYDE, SHIRT AND VEST: VINTAGE.
49SEPTEMBER 2022 |
META MORPHOSIS
IN MY CREATIVE PROCESS, I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN BLESSED THAT INSPIRATIONS HAVE COME TO ME AND NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND. IN THE YEARS I HAVE BEEN DESIGNING, I HAVE NEVER BEEN AT A LOSS FOR A STORY TO TELL. THUS FAR, EVERY ONE OF MY COLLECTIONS HAS EXPRESSED AN INTIMATE AND PERSONAL STORY THAT REFLECTED NOT ONLY MY OVERALL JOURNEY BUT ALSO A SPECIFIC POINT IN MY LIFE.
STORY BY MENA LOMBARD
SPECIAL THANKS SIMONE MARTE, GIORGIO CAMPONESCHI, MATTEO BASTREGHI
FASHION DESIGNER MENA LOMBARD PHOTOGRAPHER FLÁVIO IRYODA
MODEL
NATALIA KALINOWSKA
HAIR
& MAKE UP ARTIST EDOARDO DE FALCO
MODELING
AGENCY I AM MANAGEMENT
FASHION | FEATURE STORY 50 | SEPTEMBER 2022
FASHION | FEATURE STORY
“Metamorphosis is the most profound of all acts” Catherina M. Valente.
For some time now, I have told several stories, and my collec tions have covered many different narratives. Since starting my fashion journey, I have consistently trained my brain to look for ward and backward. Backward for inspiration and forward for relevance. As a creative person, I review my history to give a voice to my vision of the world and to keep in sync with the constantly moving and unstoppable fashion industry. Without my educa tion and experience, I would have never been able to keep up with fashion’s pace. What I had never wanted or even imagined to have to face or experience was a sudden and immediate stop. When the pandemic hit the pause button, everything and every one in my world just halted.
After my initial shock, I realized that the pandemic gave me the incredible opportunity to look sideways for the first time in my life. Not backward, not forward, but sideways. And in the middle of that pause, while others saw confusion, I saw detail and clarity.
53SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION | FEATURE STORY
In this context, my previous col lection, Balance, spoke about how I thought we could all reclaim our sense of normalcy. It talked about the value of balance, not as a way to give different elements equal impor tance but as a way of having differ ent elements properly and effectively arranged and considered. And with that understanding came the realiza tion that Balance was the frame of a broader picture. One that, in my humble opinion, demanded a better understanding of and a higher pur pose for humanity.
In ballet, everything starts with balance. Either a pose or movement requires balance as a starting point. This means that balance not only precedes all action but also allows for what comes next. Extrapolating that concept to our human journey, balance becomes the state required for all of us to do what comes next suc cessfully. Two thoughts became viv idly clear to me: the first was that the message of Balance was still relevant. The second was that I wanted to continue the dance I started with Bal ance, not only because of its relevance but also because of the nature of both life and ballet.
In life, one must change to ad vance successfully. This thought led me to Darwin and how he discovered that the species that were able to sur vive were the ones that were able to adapt to their changed surroundings.
Adaptation becomes the answer that allows us to keep going because ad justing is the basis of evolution. And evolution is the key to success.
55SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION | FEATURE STORY
One of my favorite quotes says, “Every transformation precedes the letting go of a previous state.” Although that sounds simple, this idea implies leaving behind what you were and what you knew to be effective in discovering and welcoming what is waiting for you. I have always found this concept adventurous and terrifying at the same time. The element of the unknown that surrounds any transformation can be pretty daunting. In that sense, I find myself envying every being that knows what it came to this world to be and does not question it. French philosopher Sartre famously said, “man is condemned to be free,” and I agree. Free will is one of the most critical elements that differentiates humans from all other animals, providing us with infinite possibilities and endless burdens. Freedom to choose what you want to be gives humanity a much deeper dimension. It also means that, unlike the evolutionary process of other animals, our process’ success is not guaranteed. Evolution does not have a repetitive pattern and therefore has infinite possibilities. The only thing we know for sure is that success can only be achieved if we let go of our previous state.
“Paint your village, and you will paint the whole world” - Leon Tolstoy.
57SEPTEMBER 2022 |
This idea of evolution made sense to me, and it also shed light. Evolution is necessary for continuance, and it is also required for knowledge. Evolution can be our most important goal and our most cherished tool. It is on behalf of evolution that we build our future, and through evolution we succeed in doing it. And for a second, I saw our society as one of those species on the Galapagos Islands, looking sideways and trying to understand their surroundings, attempting to decipher the “new normal,” and trying to comprehend how and what to adapt to keep going forward. I saw all of us as this caterpillar with the incredible possibility of becoming a butterfly. That image illustrated in such a beautiful and simple way not only what I saw but how I felt. And that is how Metamorphosis came to be the story for this collection. This concept became the perfect way to encompass this message of evolution in a way that could resonate with everyone. Metamorphosis perfectly embodies this powerful story that affects all of us and follows Balance’s inspiration superbly. Thus, both of my collections have a greater sense and message since they are being told one right after the other. You can always tell a story. But only when you live that story is when you can transmit it with a greater level of detail, commitment, and understanding. And so, before envisioning society as a caterpillar, I decided to see myself as a caterpillar. I chose to look at my surroundings and understand them so I could adapt and evolve. The concept of metamorphosis became the perfect incentive to embark on this journey that would take me to the next phase of my work.
FASHION | FEATURE STORY 58 | SEPTEMBER 2022
When I became a fashion designer, I also chose fashion as the means to communicate my vision and tell my personal stories. Fashion is an incredible language that has the unique ability to reflect and transmit the spirit of the times. With Balance, I wanted to represent how we were trying to con nect with ourselves and do our reset. With Metamorphosis, I addressed the need to move forward and embrace what the future holds for us, both as an opportunity and an evolution. I lived my metamorphosis, which is the story I share through this collection. Although it is per sonal, I also hope it is represen tative of other voices that have undergone a similar transfor mation. I hope this collection can humbly represent all who, like me, have gone through such a process and come out of it stronger and ready to face the new adventures this life has to offer. I wholeheartedly believe that the best is yet to come. Let’s embrace it.
FASHION | FEATURE STORY
60 | SEPTEMBER 2022
ON THIS PAGE
RUBAN NOIR DECORATIVE CARABINER BRA
CULTURE 62 | SEPTEMBER 2022
FROM BELIEF TO DELUSION
STORY
MENA LOMBARD & ALFONSO DE HOYOS-ACOSTA
CREATIVE DIRECTION & STYLING RANIEL BETANCOURT & JUANITA GARCIA
WARDROBE ODDS CONCEPT
MODEL: YOSELIN MONTES DE OCA
MODELING AGENCY: POSCHE MODELS
HAIR & MAKE-UP ARTIST: TAYLOR MOROZOVA
PHOTOGRAPHER: FLÁVIO IRYODA
RETOUCHER: LUIZ CAMARGO
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: JUAN GOMEZ
SPECIAL THANKS: TATIANA ZABORA, TYLER MOLINARI, ISTITUTO MARANGONI MIAMI
TACKLING AN ARTICLE ABOUT ROE VS. WADE IS FRAUGHT WITH SO MANY PROVOCATIVE ISSUES
that when the editors at Avessa first started conversing about it, there was sincere hesitation. It would have been much easier to just sit back with some low-fat frozen yo gurt and observe the mess as we made self-righteous, snide, and furious comments. This attitude would have been in tellectually lazy and cowardly, and the editors realized we could not be silent.
What is interesting and ironic is that many of the so cial issues that our society violently quarrels over involve “statements of values” that will touch vanishingly few Americans in their daily lives -- very few people, for in stance, will ever have to decide whether to bake a cake or take the photos for a same-sex wedding. Yet these values, which are philosophical in nature, will continue to drive real-life bans on abortion at the state level. What is worse is that with the overturn of Roe vs. Wade, these values may also introduce significant restrictions or even legal prohibi tions on the type of people we are allowed to love, who can have the right to vote, or how we determine what religion to practice (if any). In essence, we may end up fighting an other more dangerous cultural war with more widely felt consequences.
Abortion was part of the explosive complex of issues that shifted the axis of American politics during the 1960s and 1970s. During the first decades after World War II, the main dividing line in the electorate was economic: but starting in the mid-1960s with civil rights and voting rights for African Americans -- and then continuing with fierce debates over crime, welfare, and changing attitudes about family, sex and the role of women in American life -- the
dividing line between people began to shift. Abortion con tributed to that fiercely debated shift when the Supreme Court, in its January 22, 1973, Roe vs. Wade decision, es tablished a constitutional right to abortion in every state. And now, a highly conservative Supreme Court has over turned this decision and opened the way for even more debate, anger, and irrational behavior amongst ourselves.
Regarding this article, it is important to note that we will not address the arcane intellectual speculation of when “life” starts. This question immediately erupts into fierce arguments and, at times, intensely crude accusations of hate from all sides of the debate. The decision to have or not have an abortion is a personal choice, and this is the critical point. Can or should a minority of people, or worse yet, a government decide for anyone else? This question was once constrained by a privacy right which resolved the whole agony into a matter of personal choice, individual freedom, and respect for boundaries. But not anymore.
In no other country or culture has the struggle of “choice” versus “life” been fought so hard or for so long. This isn’t surprising when you reflect that simultaneously the United States is the birthplace of the modern feminist movement and one of the most secular and religious soci eties. To top it all off, we also salivate at the idea of indi vidualism. It is a cauldron of swirling emotions and beliefs that never seems to calm down.
Nonetheless, it is direly important to talk about the per sonal right to abortion since once we lose that right as a society, we need to ask ourselves what is next to be lost.
CULTURE 64 | SEPTEMBER 2022
ON THIS PAGE RUBAN NOIR CAPE PLUME NECK COVER RUBAN NOIR HIGH RISE PANTIES RUBAN NOIR THIN GARTER
ON THIS PAGE RUBAN NOIR DECORATIVE CARABINER BRA CULTURE
IT’S ABOUT PERSONAL CHOICE
MENA LOMBARD: As a woman, I believe education is one of human ity’s most powerful tools. And I say this “as a woman” because it has been proven that by educating women, you are promoting the development of an entire nation. It is known that it is through women that the passage of knowledge and values can take full effect, and thus, whole countries are able to move forward. And so, when we look at women’s education, we are immediately and undoubtedly looking at the progress of the entire world.
In 1894, American statesman, writer, and social reformer Frederick Douglass famously said, “there can be no freedom without education.” If we look back in history, one of the most important and common elements of totalitarian governments was the total control of the education system and the information such systems were imparting.
In March 2022, the Taliban announced that they were suspending edu cation for women in Afghanistan; they did it because they knew that it was one of the most effective ways to subjugate the entire Afghan pop ulation. It was a radical and ideological decision. What is happening in Afghanistan is horrifying, but the truth is that we are not significantly different. The overturn of Roe vs. Wade can be viewed as the American version of what the Taliban did because it is an ideological and totalitar ian decision based on the beliefs of a few that eliminates a right for all women. There is an undeniable truth: rights are democratic, and prohibi tion of rights is totalitarian. Rights are democratic because they allow you to choose. Prohibition of rights are totalitarian because they force you to comply with them. The right to abortion does not force you to have an abortion. It gives you the power to choose and the ability to make an edu cated decision. When you abolish a right, you impose your ideologies and beliefs on an entire population. That is being totalitarian. And totalitari anism stands at the opposite end of democracy.
I have always thought that to deal with complex issues, one must either try to look at them through an uncomplex glass or you should try to break them into the different elements that such issues consist of. And I choose to do the latter when analyzing a controversial and complicated subject like the overturn of Roe vs. Wade. One of the elements that conform to this topic is the ability of a woman to choose what can and will happen to her own body. Take away the ability to choose, and you are taking away one of the fundamental liberties stated by our founding fathers. You are stripping away something we hold very dear and a vital element that iden tifies us as the citizens of the land of the free. The fundamental right of personal choice is at the heart of freedom. In this country, no one is born with a natural right to rule over others without their consent. Accord ing to our Constitution and American values, each physical female body inhabiting this soil holds the power of consent in terms of what happens to her. If that is so, then Roe vs. Wade is defending one of the pillars this country was built on and one of the most essential rights of democracy. This overturn means a loss for all American women in terms of their fun damental rights and a loss for our country in terms of being an example in the fight for human rights globally.
67SEPTEMBER 2022 |
ALFONSO DE HOYOS-ACOSTA: As a man, I recognize that for decades, abor tion has been slotted into the category of “women’s issues” next to other pregnancyadjacent topics such as contraception access and paid parental leave. And let’s be totally transparent: many abortion rights advocates still become heated in contempt if men are involved in the debate. But most pregnan cies require a man’s active participation—so it stands to reason that men have a place in the abortion conversation. As the future of abortion becomes even more uncertain, men need to be active and join the fight, but we first must acknowledge the complex and unjust roles men have played in the past.
In the anti-abortion movement, men feature prominently. Some anti-abortion groups have male presidents, but men are far less visible in the abortion-rights move ment. In the mid-19th century, male physi cians initially spearheaded the multi-decade campaign to criminalize abortion. And in a head-spinning turn-around, in the 1950s, physicians—still overwhelmingly male— began to push to decriminalize abortion so that doctors could safely practice it. Their efforts resulted in a patchwork of laws at different levels of government that regu lated who could get abortions and when made in cooperation with politicians (also overwhelmingly male). Does that sound familiar?
So as men, we are already deep in the con versation over the right to choose. None theless, our complicated relationship with abortion rights has been influenced by the fact that men don’t have to exist under the possibility of carrying a pregnancy for nine months. We don’t even have a legitimate fear of being roped into onerous child sup port payments. What we do have is a net work of female family members, partners, coworkers, and friends. And that should be enough for all people, men, and women, to acknowledge past injustices but also shut up and start agitating through votes and positive debate on the right to choose.
This latest twist on removing the right to choose is comical in its hypocrisy. People who are adamant about restricting access to abortions declaim that they respect and save lives. With new state restrictions, we are
now actually debasing life. Suppose society forces all women to give birth to all preg nancies. In that case, an important question needs to be asked about who will take care of these children and provide them with the education, opportunities, and love they de serve. Also, pregnancies are not danger-free; many complications risk the lives of wom en. Who is going to pay for this increased medical care? What happens to any loved ones, partners, and children left behind? Who takes care of them?
Let’s not insult each other by saying that, consequently, people should stop having sex or that governments will be there to help. Both ideas are ludicrous. Our oldest evidence of penetrative intercourse is about 385 million years old. It comes in the form of fossilized remains of the aptly named Mi crobrachius dicki (who knew armored shell fish could be so wild?). And from the “Lex Julia de adulteriis coercendis” that crimi nalized adultery to the Arkansas law that mandates that educators stress abstinence, humans have tried and failed to legislate sex. So that is already a lost and ridiculous idea.
In addition, taxes used to increase gov ernment services are loathed in this country; hell, we kicked out King George III and the red coats because we hated being taxed. So, are we as a society willing to pay for the con sequences of restricting choice? I sincerely doubt it.
OPPOSITE
PAGE MALVA
FLOREA CORSET
MINI DRESS CULTURE 68 | SEPTEMBER 2022
MENA LOMBARD: What I have not heard much about when we address the decision made by the Supreme Court this past June 24th is the overturning itself. I don’t see peo ple getting concerned about the fact that there was a right, and it was suddenly taken away. Why did this happen? Where in Roe vs. Wade does it say that abortion is mandatory? Roe vs. Wade defended the right to choose. She or he who does not want to, doesn’t believe in, or is against it, is not obligated to do it. Can we please talk about this? Can we please dis cuss the potential danger of what opening this door could mean for the future of all our other rights and freedoms? Overturning Roe vs. Wade does not only mean that we are taking away women’s ability to choose. It also means that we are stating that any and all rights can be potentially stripped away from all of us.
As I mentioned before, we inevitably talk about freedom when we talk about choice. So, unfortunately, with the overturn of Roe vs. Wade, we are taking away the freedom of choice from a woman and putting it on some one else. Thus, we are depriving her of her opinion, voice, and ability to make decisions that affect her more than anyone else. As a woman, when I think of this, what is daunt ing to know is that if I lose the right to choose, then what do I have left? It is harrowing to think that not only I don’t get to choose, but I also lost that right because someone else chose to, and on top of all that, from now on, others will be choosing for me.
ALFONSO DE HOYOS-ACOSTA: “Women can control their reproductive lives without access to abortion; they can do so by refraining from sexual intercourse.” This disgusting and stunning statement was written in a “friend-
of-the-court” brief submitted to the Supreme Court in July by Texas Right to Life and signed by Jonathan Mitchell, one of the architects of Texas law S.B.8. And it makes crystal clear that outlawing abortion isn’t the only end game.
We should not be surprised. On August 18, 1920, the 19th Amendment to the Con stitution was finally ratified, enfranchising all American women and declaring for the first time that they, like men, were free to execute all the rights and responsibilities of citizenship. Let’s stop and ponder that for a second. For
144 years, American-born women were not considered capable of being American citizens. In 1865 slavery was abolished, and although racism is alive and well, it took men another 55 years to sullenly and hesitantly acknowledge that their mothers, wives, sisters, and daugh ters were smarter than drunken hamsters. So, are we really surprised that Roe vs. Wade was overturned and freedom of choice restricted?
From the days in the Savanna, when one had to hunt for food, to the days of agricul tural output and the industrial economy, the superior physical abilities of man gave him an advantage over women in work efficiency.
However, with the arrival of the knowledge economy, the human brain has become the most important tool for work. With this fun damental shift, women do not theoretically start at a disadvantage. But as we have seen, our society, which includes women as equal offenders, is still fundamentally patriarchal. Women are significantly underrepresented in journalism, politics, and religion. These three areas are the linchpins in forming national and global opinions and are almost exclusively male. Freedom has rarely been provided easily by the people in charge. But in a country that almost fanatically prides itself on freedom of speech and individualism, why are women left out? Would any of this debate still be valid if men, like male sea horses, could get pregnant and give birth? This question has been bat ted about both seriously and in sarcasm. But the question is valid because up until now, the politicians, religious leaders, and publish ers that are pushing for restrictions on choice are all overwhelmingly male. Given the past legal precedents, can we imagine that Ameri can men would allow their rights to sexual freedom and personal autonomy confiscated, even if, in some people’s opinion, they might be committing a grave sin such as murder? We live in a patriarchal society, and even now, they get to make the rules for the rest of us.
To be totally transparent, I have greatly benefited from a patriarchal society, but as a minority, I am also deeply concerned that the next freedoms to be restricted are mine. John Bradford, a 16th-century protestant priest, al legedly said, “There but for the grace of God, go I, “ referring to a group of prisoners being led to execution. That is my selfish reaction as well; I am seeing women’s freedom being re stricted, and it is clear to me that I am next.
IT’S ABOUT FREEDOM
“WOMEN CAN CONTROL THEIR REPRODUCTIVE LIVES WITHOUT ACCESS TO ABORTION; THEY CAN DO SO BY REFRAINING FROM SEXUAL INTERCOURSE.”
Jonathan Mitchell
Former Solicitor General of Texas
CULTURE 70 | SEPTEMBER 2022
ON THIS PAGE
LACK’D TRIPLE PEARL DROP EARRING MALVA FLOREA MINI SKIRT
CULTURE
IT’S ABOUT RESPECT FOR BOUNDARIES
MENA LOMBARD: Another important aspect of this overturn is that it deals with essential boundaries. When we give someone else the power to decide for us, we are inevitably messing up the boundaries that hold society organized by setting clear start and end points to every right of every human being. Taking away the ability to choose blurs these boundaries. The golden rule that establishes that your right ends where mine begins loses value, power, and effect. When a group or entity takes away an individ ual right, like my ability to choose, it automatically throws away all we know and makes sense regarding boundaries and respect. This is because it means that such a group or entity and only, they have the power to make that choice. And more than that, that choice will only affect and concern me, not them. That not only feels abusive, but it also feels like a double standard.
ALFONSO DE HOYOS-ACOSTA: The United States is a mar velous place, but nothing is perfect. We have repeatedly debated the importance of individual and societal rights like a merry-goround on acid. We have a choice between a society where people respect the common good and make modest sacrifices to ensure its overall success or a more contentious society where groups selfishly protect their own benefits. Guess where we are now? The common good is a notion that originated over two thou
sand years ago in the writings of Plato, Aristotle, and Cicero. The common good consists primarily of having the social systems, institutions, and environments work to benefit all people. Examples include a decent public health care system, effective public safety, or a flourishing economic system that benefits both men and women. It also includes respect for individuals regardless of sex or color of skin. Unfortunately, since World War II, arguably the last time we as a country stopped whining and acted in en thusiastic concert for the common global good, there have been minority groups of self-interested Americans taking advantage of apathy and disinterest to gain an absolute advantage.
Our historical traditions place a high value on individual free dom, personal rights, and allowing each person to pursue their own goals and interests without interference from others. In the overturn of Roe vs. Wade, these sentiments are turned on their head. Apparently, while we still respect the right to bear arms, we no longer respect the right to make a personal decision on what to do with our bodies. In Roe, the Supreme Court held that the constitutional right to privacy includes a woman’s right to decide whether to have an abortion. And suddenly, four older white men and a white “handmaiden” to a Pentecostal protes tant offshoot of the Catholic Church have decided, on our be half, that this right to privacy should be taken away.
73SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CONCLUSION
In a perfect world, each person should have the individual right to decide what to believe in and what to do on their own behalf. No one else should have that right over others. This self-determination is at the heart of the very definition of human existence. As is the case with all rights, there is a corresponding responsibility. There will be charlatans, scammers, and sin cere people who will try to influence your beliefs, but ultimately you and you alone are responsible for the content of your own mind. You make the final decisions within the privacy of your thoughts and feelings.
What you believe in will guide you into friendships with those who are like-minded. You will evaluate new information based on how well it fits with your existing beliefs. And we make sense of the world in terms of how we as individuals consume the data and images that enter our lives. Of course, it is pretty humorous that everyone thinks their beliefs are excellent and, without a doubt, based on the truth.
How can anyone think differently from us? Most people in contem porary society take a lazy and convenient point of view; everyone else is wrong. This line of thinking is shallow and dangerous. Fundamentally, we should act on the hypothesis that people are trying their best and do not sincerely mean to harm others proactively. It would be a very dark and paranoid world if we thought the opposite. And having said that? It is im perative that personal beliefs be respected.
As you think about the reversal of Roe vs. Wade, it is crucial to have some intellectual humility. As individuals, we are not omniscient. We must be willing to learn new perspectives and carefully question if we need to change or improve our belief system. Beliefs evolve, and a tenet of respect is dialogue. We need to listen to each other more, not call each other gro tesque names and have hissy fits.
Ultimately, we at Avessa believe that no one has a right to impose their beliefs on others. Why does Avessa take this view? Fashion has always been about a series of choices. In fashion, you are in direct control of how you want to present yourself to the world. Whatever you choose to wear also reflects who you are personally. Fashion choice allows people to express how they feel that day and how they want people to view them. We may encounter societal pressures, but only rarely in contemporary society have people been legislated on the type of clothes they wear. If our culture hesitates to legislate a relatively benign topic such as fashion, then why do we permit laws against personal choice over reproduction? Same-sex marriage is another example where there are double and triple standards. With almost no fanfare, same-sex marriage was quietly voted on in The U.S. House of Representatives. The House voted on July 19, 2022, to en shrine same-sex marriage into law with a bipartisan vote — all 220 Demo cratic representatives voted in favor, joined by 47 Republican colleagues. A similar move to enshrine the right to choose was summarily laughed at and thrown out onto the Capitol steps.
If your beliefs tell you same-sex marriage is wrong, then don’t do it. That is your choice. If you consider it more carefully, getting married to a samesex partner is also a choice that men and women are permitted. However, it is not your job to make everyone else comply with your personal beliefs.
Just as neither of us has a right to tell the other what to believe, neither of us has a right to tell the other how to live or impose our views. The loss of freedom for any one of us is the loss of freedom for all of us.
CULTURE 74 | SEPTEMBER 2022
75SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CULTURE 76 | SEPTEMBER 2022
AS YOU THINK ABOUT THE REVERSAL OF ROE VS. WADE, IT IS CRUCIAL TO HAVE SOME INTELLECTUAL HUMILITY. AS INDIVIDUALS, WE ARE NOT OMNISCIENT. WE MUST BE WILLING TO LEARN NEW PERSPECTIVES AND CAREFULLY QUESTION IF WE NEED TO CHANGE OR IMPROVE OUR BELIEF SYSTEM. BELIEFS EVOLVE, AND A TENET OF RESPECT IS DIALOGUE. WE NEED TO LISTEN TO EACH OTHER MORE, NOT CALL EACH OTHER GROTESQUE NAMES AND HAVE HISSY FITS. 77SEPTEMBER 2022 |
THE EMBROIDERED SOUL OF UKRAINE
BY LIUBOV LAVRENIUK
“Beauty will save the world,” Fyodor Dostoevsky once said, and this quote captured our imagination. It speaks to our current circumstances, and since humanity constantly searches for hope, this quote can be a source of inspiration and energy to recover. In the history of the world, there were days when style and casual looks were reinvigorated af
FASHION 78 | SEPTEMBER 2022
ter wars had ended. That’s how tiny-waisted long skirts came to be, the “A-line,” a simple but perfect stylish cut or even new fabric. The persua siveness of a real masterpiece makes even the most brutal hearts surrender. That’s why Ukrainian designers and fashion showrooms are in the public eye today. Their life has recently changed entirely, and it is impressive to create beauty when there’s so much fear and chaos around. Business and production in Ukraine have had to follow a new path. Business owners are forced to satisfy creditors and maintain a solid credit score for future procurement of products and services. Many productions have focused
on the defense industry due to the impact of war on companies in neigh boring suffering regions that may need to shift their supply chains and customer base to account for the circumstances. The participants under pressure have to rethink everything, and industries, such as technology, will feel the pressure to change existing business models more than others. However, such enterprises can be proactively involved in or impact the circumstances, leading to victory or failure. So, who are they? Those who embody Ukrainian traditions, culture, and style in their sophisticated de signs. They told us about their art - the art of living and surviving.
79SEPTEMBER 2022 |
LARESTA
It all started in 2016 when my mom didn’t like the idea that I was working with a Russian-based fashion label. So she insisted on introducing Ukrainian ethnic-inspired clothing to Ladies (potential customers) in the Middle East, where I have been liv ing and working since 2010.
Local women loved it. They value embroidery and bright col ors and, most importantly, are always on the hunt for something unique: cut, details, and spirit. So this is how it started. Fun fact: back in 2016, local customers were not very fond of linen, which is a pillar of traditional Ukrainian clothing, but looking at all the fashion labels now in 2022 - I don’t know a single one that doesn’t use linen for dresses and abayas (traditional overgar ment). We started on Instagram by growing an organic audience, collaborating with middle eastern fashion influencers and blog gers, participating in pop-up exhibitions, and presenting our de signs in boutiques in Dubai and Riyadh.
Then I opened a shop on Etsy, which is famous for handcrafts and artisanal creations. What a surprise: Americans, Canadians, British, and Australians were fans of ethnic clothing too. It was something different, interesting, not ordinary.
We lived and worked and enjoyed the journey until Feb 24, 2022. My best friend texted me: “Larysa, Kyiv was shelled, Rus sians attacked us. Can you check what’s is going on in your re gion? So I called my mom, and couldn’t hear anything else after the words: “...the whole house is trembling...” Then, I don’t remember anything, but the sound of my pulse and breath, as if I was placed in a vacuum.
For the next two weeks, I did nothing but read the news and tried to cheer up my relatives and my team, who were all in Ukraine. I was sleeping for 2-3 hours a day, crying all the time, and growing a feeling of pride for Ukraine and my belonging to the nation - a very mixed feeling. After two weeks, I informed all our customers about the situation and asked if they wanted to cancel their orders as we could not give a delivery date. All logistic chains were destroyed, my tailors and embroiderers were scared even to go to work, and we didn’t know what to expect in the next 2-3 hours.
FASHION
A small family business of two women: mother and daughter.
80 | SEPTEMBER 2022
To my great surprise, most customers asked not to can cel their orders and told me they were ready to wait. People from all over the world showed me their sympathy and pity. More than that, some of our customers from the US, who ordered and received their clothing before the war, placed their new orders with notes: “from my home to yours….”, “I hope you and your family are fine, don’t worry about the order, ship it whenever you can….”, “Larysa, we are praying for you, and it’s not just words of politeness, we mean it…” and one customer from Canada just transferred an amount of money with words: “I want to support you in the way I can.” We gave that money to the lady who works with us (she is a person of determination) and was in need, and that act from the lady on another conti nent melted our hearts. We didn’t expect people across the ocean to feel what they felt, do what they did and continue doing until this very moment.
This devastating war gave us a great lesson, it united Ukrainians from all over the world, and we remembered who we are and where we belong. Once, I saw this gorgeous woman Irena Karpa. A modern Ukrainian author and jour nalist living in Paris is an inspiring light in a dark tunnel, a bundle of energy fighting for Ukraine on French TV. She provided precise information from the front line and help ing our warriors in the South. And one day, I texted her. I wanted to help, to feel that I was a part of this survival fight. She let me in to support those whom she supported. And that was the beginning of a new friendship.
Two months had passed when our president said: ”You must work to support our economy. Everyone should do what he can at his place….” That woke me up. I told our team to get back to work. We will do what we can, everyone at one’s place. We put ourselves together: if people around the world support us, we must fight and continue what we do.
And now, almost after six months of the war, we are shooting a new collection and preparing for the new sea son to deliver our cross-stitch, love, and appreciation to the world.
FASHION
THIS DEVASTATING WAR GAVE US A GREAT LESSON, IT UNITED UKRAINIANS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, AND WE REMEMBERED WHO WE ARE AND WHERE WE BELONG
82 | SEPTEMBER 2022
83SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION
L’ESKIZZO
Founded in 2006 as a mono-brand of blazers, and we still keep the same focus.
We built our “universe” around structured clothes; our main line is women’s suits. We tried to offer the best variety of models and colors so that every Ukrainian would associ ate a case with L’eskizzo. I say “we” because I’m not alone; there is a team of firm believers behind me. And namely the team remains to be the most vital driver and my greatest in spiration. We have a showroom and design office in Kyiv, located in the same building: the creative team and showroom are run by the managing director, stylist, designer, and seamstress. Our production is based in Za porizhzhia.
Four years before the war, we doubled sales yearly and planned to open a new shop in Italy. Due to our production and constant restricted capacity, we postponed this event. When the war started almost two months af ter we closed the design office and the show room, all the team members left Kyiv and went to the different villages of Ukraine. The general mood was down; after some time, we gathered together on a call and decided to continue no matter what. We hired the agency to get a consultation and dedicated our time to reviewing who we are, what we did well, and what can be improved. We elab orated a marketing plan on how to upgrade and promote the brand and aimed to focus our efforts on building up the brand abroad and exporting the suits abroad.
85SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION
Meanwhile, the team kept working remotely, creating new places and releasing new collections in Ukraine according to the initial plan. We did video trials and sent samples by post. This work not only helped to create a base for further work but also kept the team motivated together. After two months, the team returned to Kyiv; we reopened the showroom, announced reopening, and received a wave of sales from our clients who left abroad and those who restarted work and life here in Kyiv. That was unexpected and motivated the whole team to work harder.
Since the war started, we didn’t lose any employees; we financially supported those who left Kyiv and went abroad for a while. Now ev eryone is back, motivated to work even harder to achieve goals. I can proudly say that the team is the primary key to success, and with the L’eskizzo team, there is no chance of not succeeding.
87SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION
DYKA SPIDNYTSIA
Monobrand of skirts, owned by Dyka Oksana. The story of our brand began three years ago, and it was more of an adventure and a game for me rather than something serious.
The story of our brand began three years ago, and it was more of an adventure and a game for me rather than something serious. By then, I had worked as a web de signer for the largest online store in Ukraine, Rozetka, and liked the job. The brand was like an outlet, a place where I could create some thing new in my free time. Every thing developed calmly and step by step. Therefore, it did not have great results compared to other brands. Or something serious.
The goods we create, first of all, cover my personal needs. I like to wear skirts, and buying them in mass market stores is challenging because I cannot choose some thing that best suits me due to my type of figure, short height, and body proportions. That’s how the idea of sewing skirts and becoming the best in this field arose. I have about 30 of them in my wardrobe, and I wear them all. The name of our brand also appeared eas ily and quickly. We did not try to come up with something exotic. I wanted the name to be associated with skirts and easy to remember. We come from the Central part
of Ukraine, from the Cherkasy region, and a simple Ukrainian name seemed the most logical to me. Dyka Spidnytsya (Wild Skirt) is the brand’s name, immediately clarifying who we are and what we do. The first part of the name is my family name, and the second is what we produce.
Before the war, only two people were on our team - me and my mother, Iryna. I handle all admin istrative work, social networks, and sales and develop models. She is the heart and soul of all techni cal issues, including the construc tion of patterns to the high-quality tailoring of all our skirts. She has more than 30 years of experience in manufacturing women’s cloth ing and can be considered a master in her field. I am confident about all our skirts and the exceptionally high production quality. There is also my dad - he is a professional in adjusting sewing equipment. That`s the way how a mini-family business appeared.
Girls who come to us to buy skirts inspire me. They are all very different, but they have the same problem as I once had, that it is
difficult to find something to suit them, that the goods in the stores are usually made for tall girls, and those who are shorter do not look that good wearing them. I am just like them, so it is easy for me to understand what they need. We can shorten the length if the girl is short or, on the contrary, sew a lon ger one to order and according to individual measurements. We are all different, and I love that we can accommodate any need.
When the war started, I thought it was the end of everything. On the first day of the war, I was fired from my position as a designer, where I had worked for many years, and everything seemed to have stopped. I froze and did not know where to head. Volunteering and helping people got me out of the emotional abyss. We quickly reorganized and actively began to sew and re-stitch everything possible for the needs of the war. There was a terrible short age of all materials. People brought us all possible pieces of fabric so that we could help the army and not stop. We produced military equipment, and skirts seemed to be a thing of the past.
89SEPTEMBER 2022 |
I continued to maintain the page of our brand on Insta gram and tell about our work, but for the needs of the army. There was a day when a girl wrote to me and ordered a skirt similar to her favorite one that was left at home while she was fleeing. She only had her winter clothes, and it was spring. The skirt reminded her of her happy life before the war. It was the story that broke my heart. At that moment, I realized that my skirts were a thin thread to my previous life, that this was a thing that could save someone and cheer somebody up.
I gave many skirts to those who needed them and contacted me. This gave me the push to continue working and fully concentrate on the brand. The final understanding came that our work was es sential, and nobody could stop me since then. All skirts were made in our home workshop for all three years, and a month ago, we finally dared to expand, rented premises, and hired another seamstress. Now there are three of us who are making things for women. For me, this is a considerable risk and fear, as there is war in the country, and at any moment, a rocket can hit and destroy ev erything. But I am optimistic. I believe we are on the right path; we work, pay taxes, provide a workplace, and look for ward to victory. I started participating in charity fairs more actively, where we donate to the needs of the Armed Forces, in arranging the charity lottery, where we draw a skirt as a prize for a donation. I help friends and acquaintances direct ly. If the brand didn’t work, I wouldn’t be able to send money to charities. These are small amounts, but they should not be underestimated.
I dream of creating a collection of skirts that fit with em broidery made of natural fabrics and lace and expanding the range of goods. I began to immerse myself in our culture and study the clothes worn by our ancestors. Ukrainian culture is unique and rich in details. We aim to continue popularizing skirts to make the largest selection of basic, trendy and tradi tional skirts. To show that skirts are common to any ward robe and that you can make up multiple styles and outfits with them. The war showed me that one must be decisive, value yourself, adapt to the country’s situation, and be more flexible.
FASHION
THE WAR SHOWED ME THAT ONE MUST BE DECISIVE, VALUE YOURSELF, ADAPT TO THE COUNTRY’S SITUATION, AND BE MORE FLEXIBLE
90 | SEPTEMBER 2022
OMG, SHOES & WEAR
While the Armed Forces are fighting fierce battles with the enemy, Ukrainian entrepreneurs are fighting for the national economy. It is not for nothing that they say every business that manages to stay afloat contributes significantly to victory nowadays.
More than 5 million Ukrainians lost their jobs, and companies reduced em ployees’ wages by 25%. More than 10% of Ukrainian entrepreneurs have moved their facilities abroad, and this trend is just the begin ning. Only 7% of enterpris es work at total capacity in the light industry.
The Ukrainian brand OMG, whose logo is flaunted on shoes and dress collections, is one of those that managed to sur vive. Of course, we don’t even dare to dream about pre-war volumes of trade, but “Everything Will Be Ukraine” - the founder of OMG Shoes and OMG Wear, Ksenia Holod, quotes the famous saying in the country, which means “everything will be great.”
Ksenia made the dream of creating her brand of shoes and clothes come true in 2015. “It was a dream to become a finan cially independent, successful woman and a mother who can inspire her daughter,”
she says,” and do something significant for people. It was essential for me.”
The brand developed natively - without significant capital investments, but is fully dedicated and grateful to every girl who made OMG her choice. From the very beginning, Ksenia decided that the qual ity of the product and comfort were the primary needs of the brand. “Perhaps I, as the owner, will be a bad example of an entrepreneur here,” Ksenia smiles, “But
What followed was long-term, complex, and expensive treatment. And even dur ing chemotherapy, being on a drip, Kse nia continued to think of business plans, write letters to contractors, and coordi nate advertising projects. Victory over the disease seemed to inspire and became a driving force for change. Ksenia was no longer afraid to take risks and implement the most daring ideas. “We expanded the team and managed to do extraordinary things, and our turnover increased four times in a few months. We had great plans and expectationsthe website launch, inter national exhibitions...”. But the war tried to clip the wings again.
always where optimization is needed, I’d better think about how to reduce the profit a little, but not change the quality.”
What the struggle for life actually means, Ksenia learned two years before 2022, was not about business at all. In 2020, she was diagnosed with cancer.
During the first month of the war, no one dared to plan. It has become like an unnecessary, forgotten skill. Is it possible to plan anything when there’s war - people are dying, entire cities are disappearing un der rocket attacks and mas sive shellings? The production of OMG Shoes appeared to be in the area of battles. Temporarily occupied territories were nearby. But giving up is not the nature of Ukrainians. And certainly not those who recently won the most important victory of their lives. So Ksenia and the girls, pass
“The war intended to clip our wings.”
WE WILL NOT GIVE UP! WE DID NOT DISMISS ANY EMPLOYEES FROM WORK AND EVEN DECIDED TO TAKE SOME OF THE BURDENS OF THE PRICE JUMP SO THAT IT WOULD NOT BE SO DIFFICULT FOR OUR CUSTOMERS. WE UNDERSTAND THAT EVERYONE IS IN A TOUGH SITUATION TODAY, BUT THE KEY TO SUCCESS IS TO HELP EACH OTHER.”
FASHION 92 | SEPTEMBER 2022
93SEPTEMBER 2022 |
FASHION
ing roadblocks and air raid sirens at their peril and risk, transported their warehouse of goods from Kyiv to western Ukraine to their parents. Many employees also had to evacuate. “Faith and our work saved us from depression and fear,” says Ksenia. - We started selling exported goods. When the first sales took place, there was an indescribable joy from the fact that we were going on with our business.”
Two men who worked for the OMG shoe factory were drafted into the army. The whole factory staff chose the best shoes for them and tried to support them in every possible way. All other employees were back to work within a month and a half. And even though, at that time, it was possible to move around the city only with special passes because the de-mining of the territories continued.
But unfortunately, the war did not end after the liberation of the Kyiv Region from the Russian invaders. And the Ukrainian economy still cannot be brought back to life. “Now, taking into account the ex change rate and our dependence on foreign raw materials, which we buy with foreign currency, our expenses have become unsustainable,the founder of OMG states sadly - But we will not give up! We did not dismiss any employees from work and even decided to take some of the burdens of the price jump so that it would not be so difficult for our customers. We understand that everyone is in a tough situation today, but the key to success is to help each other.”
Among the brand’s most popular goods today are “patriotic sneak ers” decorated with leather inserts in the colors of the Ukrainian flag. Ksenia excitedly says that even those customers who already had the same ones repurchased to support their favorite brand. We sincerely love our customers. You may say that any manufacturer will tell you this. But
for us, this is the fundamental philosophy which is our brand’s basic one. Communicating with customers, we provide product quality, war ranty, and post-warranty relations. Ksenia tells about several cases that touched the whole team. “Our Ukrainian girls, currently abroad, often buy shoes from us. It happens that the size does not fit. In this case, you can always return the shoes. Imagine a box with a pair of shoes, a bunch of goodies, and a note with best wishes from the buyer. Our customers are our friends!”.
During the war, such a connection gains special meaning and signifi cance. Ksenia recalls another case that she couldn’t forget. “A girl from Mariupol (a city occupied by the Russian army in the south of Ukraine, which suffered almost the most destruction) contacted us. She asked for sandals to be made for her - the same as the ones she bought from us a few years ago. She left them in her destroyed house. Probably, this pair was of great value to her. We immediately realized that someone had lost her home, all her belongings, and a part of her soul. But there was something we could give her back! It was not easy because we stopped producing the mentioned model long before. We reassembled it and de veloped it anew, trying to reproduce everything as it was. Of course, we didn’t charge for this pair. It’s not about business. It’s about empathy and unity.”
We are together, and we are strong. The postcard, hand-signed by the OMG Shoes & Wear team, says wishing victory. Spikes of wheat are attached. Ksenia’s grandmother collected them for her beloving grand daughter, who dreams of persevering. The main thing is to do it with dignity, keeping the light in our hearts and sharing it with those who need it.
95SEPTEMBER 2022 |
LIVE ANOTHER CHANGE
Ah, the mysterious, inexplicable delight of metamorphosis that we so long for.
STORY BY DANA YURGLICH PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLLABÔ
The Oxford Dictionary describes meta morphosis as the process of transformation from an immature form to an adult form in two or more distinct stages; a change of the form or nature of a thing into a com pletely different one, by natural or super natural means. Merriam Webster defines it as a change of physical form, structure, or substance especially by supernatural means. What does it mean to you? Where have you meta morphed in your life? Can you put your finger on it? Can you pinpoint where it happened and exactly how it happened? It can be a mutation, a transformation, a rebirth. When we think of metamorphosis, we instantly think of a caterpillar undergo ing metamorphosis into a beautiful but terfly. Or a frog, moving through its stages from egg, tadpole, to eventually a frog. While this term scientifically only pertains to insects and amphibians, and is not used towards humans as we are fully formed in our mother’s womb, I beg to differ that we can’t experience metamorphosis in our life.
We all want transformation. To be trans formed is to change the outward appear ance, to change in character or condition. One thing I love about fashion is you can be a different character every day. You get to play with colors and textures, fabrics and
weights, an array of accessories and a selec tion of heights. You can be dolled up and glamourous one day, go edgy with leather and metal the next, be carefree in a flowy dress that feels oh so easy to wear on tropical days. To wear those pieces that make you feel like a million bucks, the ones that make you feel excited for a night out on the town or with your loved one, and the ones for those special occasions that hold joyful memories and remind you of how treasured you are.
It feels amazing slipping into the silky dress which hugs your figure just right; you feel brilliant and on top of the world, that you can tackle anything, and you hear the delightful sound of your love saying how stunning you are. But after a night of fun, we step out of our gorgeous outfit, to just be in our skin again, flaws out in the open, ex posed. And if we let it, we can feel deflated, unworthy, a fraud, craving that pleasurable feeling again. Sometimes, we hide behind our clothes, cover up what we don’t want people to see. Or, we can be so depressed that we don’t care what we look like. Sometimes that boost of a new outfit helps us snap out of it a bit, helps us feel human again, helps us feel productive and loved again. But if we don’t deal with what’s inside, those feelings will always come back to haunt us.
Still other times, we may be moving into another stage of life. A wearied mom who’s progressing in her career and needs a pro fessional style. You could be moving into your 40s and needing a new style that re flects where you are in your life, as how you dressed in your 20s and 30s just no longer works.
Metamorphosis is a funny thing. We’re witness to it in our own lives and others’; however, we are not fully aware of how it all comes to be. From being set free from drugs, getting out of a toxic relationship, or a trafficked child that’s reconciled to their family. How cancer gets healed without a single treatment; how metal put in a body to mend a previous ailment, just seems to “van ish”; a person who needs a heart transplant wakes up one day with a brand new, per fect, young heart that was not transplanted medically. It just appeared. Or how after all medical interventions have been exhausted, a person dies and comes back to life. How do we explain this?
CULTURE
PHOTO CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHY & CREATIVE DIRECTION:
MATHEUS NATAN AND GADIOLI SILVA (COLLABÔ)
MODELS: LETÍCIA BARCELOS AND MARIA GABRIELA RIBEIRO
96 | SEPTEMBER 2022
CULTURE
The one word that always stands out about metamorphosis is – su pernatural. It happens supernatu rally. It’s not us pounding into the pavement, to beat it out, to restrict ourselves into submission. While we take an active participation in it, it is not us who does it – it’s a greater One. Our body is an amaz ing thing. It was designed to be able to heal itself. With the right ingredients, the right path and Guide at the helm, we can come back from anything.
It’s like neuroscience. For years, it was thought that the brain could never be changed. Once the brain was damaged, it was permanent and could never be healed again. But now we have come to real ize that the brain can heal itself. We think, a decision is made, our brain sends the signal to our body, and the body does exactly what that thought is. We change our thoughts, we build new path ways, we build new trees, and our body follows along. Our lives then change. We have the power just by our thoughts to change outcomes and our life for the good or for the bad. What we put into our mind determines what comes out in our words and actions. We must fix our thoughts on what is true, and hon orable, and right, and pure, and lovely, and admirable. We must re program our mind. Examine what you’re putting into your mind. What are you watching, listening to, reading? When we align our thoughts and the things we’re putting into them with these traits, we will see peace, prosperity, growth and change in our life.
It all begins with the heart. It’s an inside job. We must be renewed. To renew is to restore to freshness or vigor, to make new spiritually. Through trauma, pain, despair, blows to our life and psyche, and wrong choices, we go down a path that we soon find out is destroy ing us. We get corrupted by lust and deception, and walk around with our backpack full of shame, guilt, rage and a plethora of other
99SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CULTURE
weights. We need renewed thoughts and attitudes to move forward. We need a new nature, a new direction, a new way of life. Like old, ripped up, worn out clothing, we need to throw away those old mindsets, old way of living. We need to turn back to the right path.
We create the environment that we live in. When we don’t like the envi ronment of our life, it’s so easy to put the blame somewhere else. We must choose to turn, to go the right way, even if we don’t understand, and it doesn’t feel good. We must be cleansed from within, and fill our hearts and spirits with new thoughts and desires. Only when we are renewed, reedu cated, and our mind redirected are we truly transformed. We need to choose The Way.
We all long for metamorphosis in one or more areas of our lives. We’re all filling the void, the emptiness with something. We have a vice, and we all want freedom. We may want to be free from drugs, alcohol, addiction to pornography, rage, weight gain, toxic relationships, or from being a victim of abuse, and all the ripples that these struggles bring with them. We want whole, healthy, perfect bodies, a ro bust portfolio, to be desired, loved and accepted. From the fashion industry, to the beauty industry, to health and wellness, to entertainment, technol ogy and finance industries, and all the others in between, we’re all searching for that immortal body; we’re all look ing to stop the clock, to stay in our prime, to stay on the mountain peaks. A transformation can come. It will happen in a moment, in the blink of an eye. We can have a new life – a re birth, new DNA and be set free.
Are you happy with where the road’s leading you? Are you going to continue to go down that well-worn path of destruction, though it may look shimmery and delightful right now? Or are you going to be coura geous, turn, and go down the path less travelled, that’s rugged and not well worn. Throw off the old way of living, and follow the new way – the Way of peace, of hope, of life. It’s not by doing what everybody else is doing; it’s being transformed into a new person by changing the way you think. Every day people are walking around with a veil over their face, with rose colored glasses on, not able to see clearly, and their eyesight and understanding shrouded. Just like our blind spots. When the veil is taken away, there is salvation and freedom from bondage; we have rebirth. Our radiance and true identity can shine through then.
You are a changing, thriving being. Just look at carbon. Deep within the core of the earth, carbon undergoes tremendous amounts of intense heat and pressure. At just the right time, the deep-seated volcano violently explodes spewing out the newly formed crystals from the depths. The rock is cut and polished, to expose the most brilliant and prized gem. A perfect reflection of rebirth and supernatural metamor phosis that we can experience.
Where in your life do you need transformation? What needs to shift in your life? Do you need a rebirth? What are you going to do about it? Are you going to pick the right path or the wrong? Are you going to choose light or dark? Choose to forgive some one else or yourself? Choose to love yourself? The choice is yours. As Rob ert Frost penned in his famous poem:
“I TOOK THE ONE LESS TRAVELED BY, AND THAT HAS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE”.
WE ALL LONG FOR METAMORPHOSIS IN ONE OR MORE AREAS OF OUR LIVES. WE’RE ALL FILLING THE VOID, THE EMPTINESS WITH SOMETHING. WE HAVE A VICE, AND WE ALL WANT FREEDOM.
101SEPTEMBER 2022 |
INTERVIEW 102 | SEPTEMBER 2022
RUCHT D’OLEO-SCHWARTZ IN THE SPOTLIGHT
PRESENTED BY THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL OF SOUTH FLORIDA
103SEPTEMBER 2022 |
YOU ARE A LONG TIME MIAMI RESIDENT, HAD YOUR OWN CLOTHING BRAND, AUTHOR OF TWO FASHION BUSINESS BOOKS, CEO AND FOUNDER OF FASHION INSTITUTE OF SOUTH FLORIDA. HOW HAS LIVING IN MIAMI INFLUENCED YOUR SUCCESS?
Miami is a multicultural city with many Latinos living here, I believe that it helps me to be easily accepted here rather than in other cities in the USA.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MILESTONES THAT YOU ARE PAR TICULARLY PROUD OF SINCE ESTABLISHING THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF SOUTH FLORIDA?
I’m proud not only that we were able to train and graduate some students already but seen many of them fulfill their dreams of having a successful brand. Additionally, I’m very proud of having The Fashion Institute of South Florida licensed by The Florida Department of Education.
WHAT SETS YOUR FASHION SCHOOL APART FROM OTHERS?
At the Fashion Institute of South Florida, we really care and look out for each of our students. All classes’ sections are small, allow ing students to ask questions and to build a rapport with the in structor. Besides of teaching fashion we motivate and allow stu dents to follow their dreams and live the best version of their life.
WHAT PLANS DO YOU HAVE FOR THE FUTURE OF YOUR COM PANY?
To open another campus in North Florida, write another pattern-making book and to complete all the video tutorials on our virtual classroom so students from over the world can learn from the conform of their homes.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WANTING TO START THEIR BUSINESS?
To take a few months to study and plan, then start. Keep it balanced; it’s not good to start without knowledge but also, you can NOT wait to have all the knowledge and perfect planning in order to start. By the way, one of my favorite quotes from Zig Ziglar is “you don’t have to be great to start, but you have to start to be great.”
HOW HAS FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL HELPED YOU ADVANCE YOUR BUSINESS?
FGI has played an enormous role in my business. Their networking and educational events help me connect with other industry professionals and keep me updated with the lasted trends.
KEEP IT UP WITH FGI FGI.ORG | @FGISOUTHFLORIDA
INTERVIEW
THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL IS A GLOBAL, NON-PROFIT, PROFESSIONAL ORGANIZATION WITH 5000 MEMBERS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY INCLUDING APPAREL, ACCESSORIES, BEAUTY AND HOME.
104 | SEPTEMBER 2022
THE FUTURE BELONGS TO THOSE WHO BELIEVE
BY ALFONSO DE HOYOS ACOSTA
Taylor Crosley won the Avessa Editorial Award at Miami Swim Week 2022. She presented three outstanding designs, which wowed the editorial staff at the magazine, and naturally, we had to feature Taylor and her work.
INTERVIEW
PHOTO CREDITS FASHION DESIGNER: TAYLOR CROSLEY HAIR & MAKE-UP ARTIST: LIA TSELUYKO HAIRSTYLIST & PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: KEISHA VOLMAR MODEL: SOPHIA WHIPPLE MODELING AGENCY: TRENDSETTER MODELS PHOTOGRAPHER: FLÁVIO IRYODA RETOUCHER: LUIZ CAMARGO SPECIAL THANKS: BETTY DAVIS RELIFORD
106 | SEPTEMBER 2022
INTERVIEW
WHEN I FIRST MET TAYLOR,
I was immediately intrigued by her stylish clothes, especially her fan tastic shoes! Looking more fashionable isn’t always about wearing the coolest trends, mastering complicated styling tricks, or wearing the most expensive clothes. I noticed that Taylor was simply and quietly confident, which is the key to looking fabulous. She knew how to ac cessorize, use a remarkable statement piece, and had this attitude that epitomized the French saying: “Vouloir c’est pouvoir.” I could tell from our first encounter that Taylor would complete whatever she put her mind to. At Avessa, we believe that editorial design should be evocative, connect to the audience, and be a gut-punch reminder of how beautiful clothes can be. We also think editorial designs should never merely be visual “garnish.” Brilliant editorial work creates an instinctive connection with the audience and eventual customers. For this award, we wanted the winning designs to add depth and mean ing to the story that the Miami International University of Art and Design student was telling at Miami Swim Week. Taylor’s designs won the Avessa Editorial Award because they were artfully executed and because they stopped us in our tracks.
Taylor Crosley was born and raised in Naples, Florida, and in 2013, she moved to Miami to pursue her dreams of becoming a fashion de signer. Her grandmother taught her the basics of sewing at a young age, so she started a love for designing and creating clothing. She med dled in crafty DIY pieces throughout her childhood and taught herself more technical sewing in her early twenties. Taylor worked in retail for about 15 years and previously attended college right out of high school. In our interview, Taylor mentioned how her professional and personal friends have helped her learn more about what drives her. I had the opportunity to meet one of her best friends, Keisha, who demonstrated that Taylor has a knack for instilling passion in her work and with the people around her. I was also delighted to discover that Taylor has two children (I need to steal her moisturizers), a 4-year-old boy named Zaïre Sax and a 1 ½-year-old girl named Yvette Dupree. Taylor told me, “They are my whole world, and I am following my dreams so that I can show them to do the same.” After Zaïre Sax came into the picture, Taylor decided it was time to commit to her dream of returning to design school. She eventually enrolled in the program
109SEPTEMBER 2022 |
at MIU.
WHAT IGNITED YOUR PASSION FOR FASHION?
I have loved playing around with clothes since I was a child. As a young adult, the women I worked with, Lisa Jo and Claudette, influenced my style and knowledge of the fashion world. While in high school, I started working in retail at a local boutique in Naples owned by Claudette and run by Lisa Jo. They were the most fashionable and fabulous women I had ever met. They introduced me to the world of fashion. From them, I learned how to style and dress women of all ages; this started my retail career.
DID YOU KNOW YOU WANTED TO DESIGN EARLY ON?
At about ten years old, my grandmother taught me how to sew. With this skill, I began making new things from old clothes and customizing garments for myself or my friends. Making things with my own hands brought me joy and gave me a creative outlet.
YOU HAD SOME FIERCE COMPETITION ON THE RUNWAY; HOW DID IT FEEL TO RECEIVE THE EDITORIAL AWARD? I felt so proud and grateful to receive the editorial award. I was shocked at the moment.
HOW DID IT FEEL BACKSTAGE AT PARAISO? STRESS, FEAR, OR PURE CONFIDENCE?
Being backstage and seeing the models in my garments was pure excitement!
YOU PRESENTED THREE BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED PIECES WITH SOME GREAT DETAILS, LIKE THE TOP WITH THE CUTOUT AND THE MERMAID SKIRT. WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE THESE ASPECTS? YOUR OTHER DESIGN ALSO WAS BEAUTIFULLY MADE. WHAT DREW THESE PIECES TOGETHER? DID YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC INFLUENCE? WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION FOR THE COLOR PALETTE?
My color palette was drawn from rich hues seen in nature. The navy reminds me of the deep blue ocean. I was inspired by naval uniforms; I used subtle details in the jackets for each look. I wanted the looks to be sexy as it is a swimwear collection. The use of the open weave knit and sheer silk gave a glimpse of the model’s figure under a full-length skirt. I wanted these looks to be elevated and glamorous. The appliqués and shiny faux chainmail knit helped me to achieve the look I was going for.
WHAT ASPECT OF FASHION (E.G., DESIGN, STYLING, CONSTRUCTION, SALES) IS YOUR FAVORITE, OR DO YOU WANT TO DO IT ALL?
I really enjoy constructing garments; bringing an idea and drawing to life is what drives me. The process of getting to the finished garment, figuring out how something can be done, and learning a new technique, these are the parts that are exciting to me.
WHAT IS YOUR OVERALL AESTHETIC FOR YOUR DESIGN WORK?
I draw inspiration from the past. The ’70s was such an amazing time in fashion. As I design, I continue to see these silhouettes showing up in my work. As a student, I continue learning about myself and where my design will go.
WHAT ARE THE TYPES OF CLOTHES THAT YOU PREFER TO CREATE? E.G., READYTO-WEAR, COUTURE, EVENING, ETC. Couture and evening, I find to be more exciting as they can be over the top and out there.
WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR AFTER SCHOOL?
My plans for the future are to keep learning and practicing my craft.
111SEPTEMBER 2022 |
PASSION & PURPOSE
AND PERHAPS A LITTLE SHAME
STORY BY ALFONSO DE HOYOS ACOSTA ILLUSTRATED BY NATASHA TABUNOVA
As one walks around Rome during summer, the heat simmers the air as the sun bakes the multicolored stone to their brightest terracotta hues. During the bril liantly lit day, I wandered amidst the ru ins standing regally but with bittersweet loneliness pressed against the modern city sprawl. The ruins are mesmerizing, with deep green ivy entwining them and seem ingly their only protection from the centu ries of abuse they endured.
I also walked these streets at twilight. Occasionally, hearing a stringed instru ment, I would decide to follow the music down isolated paths that narrowed signifi cantly the deeper I entered the city’s war rens. Eventually, I would see spills of light illuminating a taverna or someone’s home with an open courtyard filled with lush palms.
Through the veil of sweat pouring down my face, I realized in my wander ing that there is a pattern to Rome. It is an unambiguous trichotomy that influences Roman fashion and architecture. For over 2,700 years, humans have been drawn to these hills in the palatine and have left an imprint on their descendants.
The Roman trichotomy is based on three competing influences. Above every thing else are the somnambulant ancients in the form of marble, stern-eyed senators, and emperors. These ancestors also left be hind their grey, crumbling pillars of stone and the architectural relics of a proud, un changing empire. This ancient culture in fluenced Romans to believe in structured, elegant fashion and not flashy trends.
The Fashion industry in ancient Rome was nothing like today’s fast-paced indus try. Styles of ancient Roman clothing and jewelry changed slowly across the centu ries. But this did not mean that fashion and personal adornment were not essential to the Romans; far from it. In a society obsessed with status, clothing and jewelry played a crucial part in outwardly indicat ing one’s position in the world.
Expensive fabrics and precious jewels were indicators of wealth. But overt osten tation was frowned upon, suggesting new ly acquired wealth and a lack of nobility.
For men, in particular, their appearance could be interpreted as a sign of effemi nacy or even immorality – the greatest of Roman insults. And although most An
cient Romans wore colorful clothing, the mark of respectability and status among all social classes was clean; uncluttered fabrics draped in elegance.
The second part of the trichotomy is the Renaissance, with its opulent jewel-like tones and gilt-laden architecture favored by the new bourgeoisie. The Renaissance brought into the fashion mix the use of ac cessories such as detachable collars, cuffs, and more advanced cosmetics.
The principal characteristic of the Re naissance female dress was its fullness. Just recall all the enormous, hooped skirts that made women look like walking cowbells. Men’s fashion, on the contrary, except for the upper garment, was usually tight and very scanty. You can see the multiple lay ers of fabric in the portraits of people as you visit any of the dozens of museums in Rome. The images of this age may suggest that people wore dark heavy layers, but Roman fashion in the renaissance was lav ish when considered within the context of the fifteenth century. Gowns were particu larly colorful as they were dyed into vibrant jewel tones. Sleeves symbolized wealth and status and were detachable so they could
FASHION
112 | SEPTEMBER 2022
113SEPTEMBER 2022 |
be redesigned with gold thread, jewels, and even pearls. However, Renaissance beauty was not skin deep. To be considered beauti ful (and fashionable), people had also to be virtuous. This concept is essential since it still has an impact today in Modern Rome.
The final part of the trichotomy is the utilitarian, modern European Union. Italy is a resolute member of this alliance that rhapsodizes uniformity and struc ture. Modern Italian fashion, following European norms, has a sedate aesthetic that revels in its practicality. Contemporary Roman style is mostly about elegance. Not too colorful. Not too outlandish. Instead, simple elegance in mostly subdued color com binations. Of course, there are exceptions in modern Italian fashion, such as the clown circus-like atmosphere of the latest season at the house of Moschino, but Romans do not blindly follow trends. They never have in thousands of years.
I considered this trichotomy as I lum bered like a wild-eyed wildebeest through the cobbled streets. Admittedly, fash ion in Rome has evolved these past few thousand years, but like a precocious child, it has nabbed the most intrigu ing bits from the stern ancients, renais sance burghers, and contemporary ascetics. Consequently, I became obsessed with identifying the mod ern Roman natives littered among the crowds. In no time at all, I real ized how laughably simple it was. Romans glide through the press of tourists and Italian hicks from lesser cities like smooth-skinned sharks. They have a lithesome, knowing walk and tilt to their heads. From their stance, you can almost hear the Romans quiet ly declaring
to the rest of the herd: “You will never be one of us.” Arrogant? Perhaps. But for over 2,000 years, these people have had a complex fashion indus try that has consistently rejected sudden spasmodic trends and faddish celebrities.
From Lucius Cornelius Sulla, arguably the first dictator before the birth of Christ, Rome has determined what the “fabulous” should wear in the rest of the west ern world. Think of it this way, when Paris was still nothing more than a soggy group of rustic fishermen living in a swamp by a river and dream ing of their next rat-fur cloak?
The Romans already had their fashionistas rock the use of silk damasks, translucent gauzes, cloth of gold, and intricate embroideries.
Sitting in the sidewalk cafés with a carafe of robust chianti glittering in my glass, I observed the parade of Roman women and men walking by. Of course, they were elegant, but not in a stuffy formal way. They visibly cre ated an aura of detached coolness and languid regard for their surroundings. In Rome, one rarely sees the stereotype of a motherly Italian woman wearing sturdy clothes and waving about a kitchen utensil. These contemporary Romans were practical but also très chic.
For women, the norm on the street was the use of separates with at least one foundational neutral color. I assert that much of this consistency that I observed comes from the trichotomy of influences discussed earlier. Quality fabric, play ful colors intertwined with neutrals, el egance, and a focus on gorgeous bags and shoes are all characteristics from ages past. For example, there is an acknowledged fact about Roman women; they
FASHION 114 | SEPTEMBER 2022
would sooner purchase a single quality white blouse that is beautifully cut in stead of the latest, trendiest wear from over-eager designers.
Roman men have a similar aesthetic based on quality. I shan’t lie; I observed with greedy and jealous eyes as the Ro man men stood near me casually unconcerned by the baking heat as they effortlessly wore dark grey or navy blue slim-cut blazers with tapered slacks in subtle patterns. And woe to the Ital ian republic if you catch a Roman man with anything as coarse as brilliant white, thickly cushioned sneakers, or plastic flip-flops. Roman men wear espadrilles or loafers from one of the many houses specializing in footwear.
I glared in anxious envy when I walked amongst them, sweating like an over-scheduled sex worker on a dis count. I knew I would never be one of these self-possessed Romans since I did not grow up with thousands of years of fashion history. But at the same time, I refused to be ashamed of my post-colo nial aesthetic. In that moment of con fused reflection, near the hideous Em manuel I Monument, I stepped off the curb and onto the cobbled street. Since
I was filled with defensive spite, I forgot to glance at the ground and stepped into a depression. Cobblestones don’t last forever, you know. My left leg buck led, and in desperation, I veered to the right, which only caused me to slam my knees onto the stony ground. So many emotions surged within me at that mo ment: intense pain, a feeling of shame for my envious attitude, self-pity, and heated exhaustion. My breath rushed from my lungs as I moaned through my conflicted feelings of embarrassment and anguish.
Usually, one would quickly scramble to one’s feet, loudly declaring, “I am all right!! I am fine!! Nothing to see!!” and then scurry away, hunched over in deep disgrace. But at that millisecond, I had an epiphany. Yes, I had cascades of sweat running down my face and salt-staining my t-shirt and shorts. Yes, I had just shown the Roman people that I have all the grace of a drunken lemur. But I also realized then that the Romans were not and had never been judging me.
I also recognized that I should in stead be grateful for the opportunity to learn from Roman fashion history and its innumerable designers. So, in a rush of acceptance, I raised my hands in supplication like Sargent Elias’ death scene in the movie “Platoon.” In slow motion, I gave a great sigh and let my body fall to the side and onto my back. I needed a moment to process my feel ings, and lying in that filthy gutter near the curb, I found myself again. Too soon, the gentle Romans walking over my carcass suggested that I get up since the Carabinieri were coming to arrest me for vagrancy. But it only reaffirmed that although I could never be one of them? They still cared.
YES, I HAD CASCADES OF SWEAT RUNNING DOWN MY FACE AND SALT-STAINING MY T-SHIRT AND SHORTS. YES, I HAD JUST SHOWN THE ROMAN PEOPLE THAT I HAVE ALL THE GRACE OF A DRUNKEN LEMUR.
115SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CULTURE
THIS IS ABOUT MY TITS AND MY VAGINA, NOT ABOUT YOU BY VIRGINIA MAYER
116 | SEPTEMBER 2022
I’ve never written an article as difficult as this one. I published my first novel and am writing streaming shows. And trust me, if you don’t already know it, that’s diffi cult, but not as much as this article would be. The world has become a terribly uncomfortable place where most of what you say always seems to hurt or offend someone else. And that, obviously, goes directly against my ideas about freedom of speech. Though, I won’t get into that. I’ll get into something way more severe. After approximately six weeks of thinking about this article, here I go.
I was about seven years old when I learned to braid my hair. That’s the first time I remember feeling like a wom an. I was 15 years old when I got my first period. I start ed to cry. I had waited for it desperately because all my friends had already gotten it. At that moment, though, I wasn’t happy because, well… it was going to be a LONG ride and I wasn’t that excited about it anymore. But my mother hugged and congratulated me because I had be come a woman. I was around 18 years old the first time a guy mentioned my tits. He wanted to know whether they were real. Oh, they were. Still are. Feminists may say that was inappropriate, but I’m not a feminist and don’t get easily offended (let me make that real clear: I am not a feminist even though I live a feminist lifestyle and am in credibly grateful for all the rights the original feminists al lowed me to have). That was the first time I felt power as a woman. I lost my virginity at 21 years old just to get it over with. It didn’t hurt, and I didn’t bleed. I felt as though I had graduated. I was now a sexually active woman. Again, I felt enormously powerful as a female.
PHOTO CREDITS CREATIVE DIRECTOR: NATASHA TABUNOVA MODEL: NATASHA KUPTCOVA PHOTOGRAPHER: TASULA 117SEPTEMBER 2022 |
I wasn’t stereotypically raised like most LatinAmerican women and was never the little girl with the pink room; my room was decorated with Mickey Mouse (actually, pink only became one of my favor ite colors a few years back). But the things I’ve men tioned were what made me feel like a woman.
Two years ago, when I was 41 years old, I exited the doctor’s office after an intravaginal ultrasound. When I looked at my cellphone, I saw the latest Co lombian news about a trans woman being the first of her genre to lead the Secretariat for Women and Gender Issues in the city of Manizales. I was furious. I thought: How can a trans woman know what I just went through? How can a trans woman understand that I had an accident when I was about ten years old where I hurt my vagina, got stitches without anes thesia, and eventually became emotionally draining to go to the gynecologist?
CULTURE
118 | SEPTEMBER 2022
119SEPTEMBER 2022 |
CULTURE 120 | SEPTEMBER 2022
To me, it’s straightforward. I agree with feminists when they don’t want men to be the ones deciding about abortion and making laws about it. As much as I don’t want a trans-woman representing me as a woman. It’s the same thought process.
I do believe in trans women’s rights because all hu man beings should have rights. But I don’t think a trans woman is a woman like I am a woman. And as such, only women should represent women, like only trans women should represent trans women. I wouldn’t dare represent a trans woman, never. I used to hate labels be fore, and now -as a middle-aged woman- I believe we need them. If each gender group has its own label, why do people from another gender represent mine?
Since all this nonsense started, I’ve wondered what makes me a woman. And every time I’ve thought about my tits, my vagina, and my menstruation, I’ve stopped myself because it’s not those things that make a trans woman a woman. So, I decided to ask my female friends on Facebook what they believe makes them women:
I respect all these women, but I wasn’t asking for spir itual or emotional characteristics. Plus, all those things they mentioned aren’t exclusive to women. I know dif ferent men who can do all of it. Only two friends were brave enough to answer: “Adult, human, female.” And when speaking of “female,” they basically referred to the vagina and the capacity to give birth. Why do I re fer to them as brave? Because since about five years ago, it became inappropriate and politically incorrect for a woman to define her gender based on her reproductive system and genitalia. And that’s just plain WRONG.
I am a woman because I was born with a female re productive system and a pair of heavy tits I didn’t even ask for and believed - because I have no interest in being a mother, they’re only meant to be enjoyed by others, specifically men. That makes me a woman, and I refuse to be confused about how I define my gender.
“IT MEANS BEING THE CARRIER OF SECRETS AND STORIES.”
“BEING AWESOME. HAVING SUPERPOWERS, KNOWING I’M STRONGER THAN MOST MEN I KNOW, SORORITY, WITCH.”
“WOMEN CAN DEVELOP PERFECT EQUILIBRIUMS, PROTECT YOU, ENCOURAGE YOU TO FLY, THEY CAN CREATE FANTASTIC SCENARIOS TO BEAT MONOTONY. A WOMAN IS A GENERATOR. SHE LEADS THE WAY AND CREATES OPPORTUNITIES.” “BEING A WOMAN IS SYNONYMOUS WITH RESILIENCE, STRENGTH, AND ABOVE ALL, TRUST.”
“IT MEANS BEING ABLE TO CONNECT WITH SENSIBILITY, EMPATHY, AND STRENGTH….”
121SEPTEMBER 2022 |
122 | SEPTEMBER 2022
And this is precisely why this article isn’t an easy one. Because it’s not an easy matter. I know very well that there are women born with damaged reproductive systems, others that lost them, and others -like myself- who will never be mothers. I know they’re different ways of being a woman. I also know there are people born genderless or with all genders. I also know there are more than just two genders. I know all of it. I do not deny it. This is not against trans women. This is in favor of women. Why can’t we wel come all genders without mixing them up? Why is it ok for women who’ve always identified as women to now doubt what makes us women? Why is it ok for us to fear defining ourselves biologically? Why will I be called transphobic for writing this when all I’m doing is defending my gender’s right to biologically define ourselves as women?
123SEPTEMBER 2022 |
META
STORY BY IBTISSAM EL AZAMI REROUTING THE MIND
CULTURE
MORPHO LUTISM
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: LUIZ CAMARGO MODEL: NATALIE FIALLO HAIR & MAKE-UP ARTIST: MILI ROTTJER PHOTOGRAPHER: FLÁVIO IRYODA 124 | SEPTEMBER 2022
And if you have the guts to dig in the depths of your mind and share your creation with the world without the fear of being judged, maybe you are ready to evolve.
By evolution, I mean that creative urge to meta morphose that allows you to reinvent yourself in a heartbeat. A state that you instinctively and proac tively look for; a state of discomfort that you know will birth more later. It’s easy to say, not that easy to do. And that is why this opinion piece is aimed today at the mind willing to engage in a deep meta morphosis and get out from it scarred, maybe, but stronger, surely.
Life is hectic nowadays. You know it, I know it. It’s no secret that the rat race has caught us and is nibbling on every part of the day. The only things that can still make us happy are those that force us to create. Creating, instead of swallowing up the rules and being mesmerized by the riches shining around us. Instead of scurrying about for a slice of the cake, giving is the solution. For the purpose of life lies not in riches but in understanding that the cycle of human life makes the world sense full. Creation is love. And love really heals. The only catch is that all the energy you radiate must be pos itive. In some strange way, forgetting about your stress and setting out to create and give love allows your mental prison to release you.
WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO EVOLVE? INTERESTING QUESTION. SOMETIMES, IT FEELS LIKE ALL WE DO IS TRY TO SURVIVE ANOTHER DAY AT WORK. EACH OF US HOLDS THE INFINITELY SMALL, A SEED OF CREATION TUGGED AWAY IN A DEEP INSIDE CORNER. IT’S THE SECRET TO ONE ANOTHER, THE SECRET OF LIFE, AND THE GROUNDS TO BASE YOUR OWN LIFE.
THE SECRET TO ONE ANOTHER
As a freelancer for many years now, I have been working from home quite a lot. I have floated through the stages where I was extra-happy, motivated, and ready to eat up the world. I have been able to cre ate and recreate myself, but I have also ex perienced the down-lows of carrying the burden of building something for myself.
It is excruciatingly painful to reroute your mind and evolve when all you do is stare at yourself and your art. Get out of your head. Ask for help. If you are a free lancer, a small business owner, or an artist of sorts, you will under stand what I mean pret ty well. The secret to one another is understand ing that we are the same, looking for someone to help carry the weight on your shoulders. All souls want to be relieved, especially when dig ging deep to create and linger in the headstuck zone. A relieved soul creates power ful art. So, how do you relieve your soul?
Stay close to Earth. For some reason, remaining in touch with natural elements helps me keep my sanity. As much as you can, see and feel the water, rest under the trees, and feel the rain on your skin. Feel that you are part of something bigger, however different you strive to be from the masses. For feeling that you are an indi vidual, at times, only makes you feel alone, lost, and incapable of moving forward.
HOW DO I EVOLVE WHEN I AM STUCK IN MY HEAD?
In the past, you might have dealt with being stuck with irrational and hurtful-toyourself means. Like everyone, you certain ly have had a type of preference for some things that are not, actually, a preference. They are a habit: substances, workaholism, and extreme behaviors. Extreme behaviors, in some way, are conformism, and, looking
back, they reflect your inability to move on.
Move on from what, exactly? From thinking that you are not enough, that your creation is bad, that no one out there will understand or trust your reasoning, personally and professionally.
It just takes a few new habits to reset, and although they take only a few minutes a day, the proof is in holding on to them. Consistency. I could tell you to meditate, to try to calm down the voice that urges you to push forward even in the moments when you can clearly not give any more.
You might have done some extraordinary things in the past and are still alive. If you are still willing, the universe is will ing to give you as long as you give first. It is a rule that will allow you to make peace with your past and understand where you might have gone wrong (although I do not believe in making bad choices except those specifically meant to hurt ourselves). Naturally, you will marry that newfound living-in-the-present mindset with lessons learned.
But you’ve probably read that time and time again, and truthfully, I want you to finish reading this article completely clear with your mind and yourself on how to evolve, with more than a simple “Meditate, and it will all be okay.” I want to help you become an entirely upgraded version of yourself, a soul that loves, that gives out the most it can, and that in return, feels the soothing excitement of love. It’s easy. The more you give, the more the World shows love to you. It is the simple equation of love. With balance, patience, and remem bering that the Other is a reflection of you, you naturally give out love and hope. And you know how karma behaves: what goes around, comes around.
MAKE ONE WITH PRESENT AND PAST
You might sometimes wonder about the past, thinking that in the old you had it much easier. The truth is, our memory embellishes the past, glossing over rela tionships, creations, and life patterns.
The past has to die because it can not survive the strength of the present. All control lies in the pres ent, and the past can explain what happened and probably why, but it cannot control the outcome. If you’re seri ous about evolving and shifting your mindset, you cannot use your past to define who you are. Do not try to force yourself into situations and mindsets that do not belong to you anymore. Going back to the sub ject of love, it cannot flow in when forced. Love invites itself in whether you are try ing to create a play, write an article, build a fashion collection, or network with other people. Make lists of the thinking patterns that used to work for you, and ask yourself if they can still be applied in the present.
At some point, do not forget that you need to get back to your power zone, or as I like to call it, my ‘reset zone.’ I am not able to empty my mind for long minutes without any noise around me, but I am in terested in bettering myself in any mental way possible. If you are like me, look into a practical way to meditate, like reality shift ing, which allows you to embrace a new kind of reality while meditating actively. This way of resetting helps you get back to an aligned state of mind, a state of nonexpectation that gives way to any offerings the universe has in store for you.
CULTURE
THE PAST HAS TO DIE BECAUSE IT CAN NOT SURVIVE THE STRENGTH OF THE PRESENT
126 | SEPTEMBER 2022
CULTURE 128 | SEPTEMBER 2022
THE PLACE OF EGO IN EVOLVING
Why is everything so fragile and unstable? The universe has ways of reminding us to stop and appreciate the beauty of every moment. Funnily enough, as we’re growing up, we forget to enjoy the infi nitely small and hidden secrets behind every action, thought, and creation of nature. For those searching actively for ways to evolve, I suppose it is not an ordinary everyday life you are looking to live. Rerouting your mind expects from you all degrees of openness and being able to let down the guards in a world where man is a wolf to other men.With love rather than fear, you can really grasp the whole meaning of evolution. You’re digging deep into yourself, and you’re trying, by this means, to understand the Other while understanding yourself. As darkness does not exist without light, and everything is duality, you can not understand yourself entirely without the echo of the Other’s presence. It is not necessarily impossible to love with ego, but it does make it harder. The communication barriers are higher with ego. Ego also hinders your creation process. It would help if you remembered that even in the process of putting yourself out there, you are safe and can take a break any time you might need it.
Whatever love feels now, it is. Our modern world is crippled by the fear of making bad choices. Wherever there is love, the choice is correct. As I approach my thirties, I understand now that all control we think we have over life backfires when we become too confident. Letting love flow in and circle us rather than trying to control its every aspect is the only way to choose the right path. Are you trying to find your purpose in life? Or maybe, you are trying to understand whether a such-and-such person is the love of your life? How will you know what is right for you?
It can help to remember that the Other is a reflection of you and that to love and be loved is a natural need for human beings that needs to be fulfilled. Still, as much as you love the Other, you must love yourself. I don’t see another way for you to forget to engage love and its pure meaning… and with your soulmates lies your success. No matter how individualistic we might think we are, love is a group effort. Society is a group effort. Maybe each of us has the same pur pose, and understanding that your purpose is one and the choice was never yours would help us feel less stressed in our everyday life. To fulfill your role in the community. To follow your inspiration and instinct, for in those lie endless possibilities.
HOW TO ADULT?
We care a lot about what other people think. We’ve got social me dia invading our every day, leading us to believe that some differences are more valuable than others. If I had been given a dollar for every time I thought, ‘I wish I were someone else,’ I would have stopped working ages ago. Understand that Other is similar to you in just the right ways to make the connections you personally need to be happy, and your inferiority syndrome will disappear. We all have different keys that open our own doors. Don’t try to open someone else’s door; you would risk breaking your key.
We’ve each been gifted with a background that serves us specifi cally, shaping a uniformity that will help anyone we love specifically as well. Understand that your unicity is different and can never be changed. It would be some deep craziness for me to try and be Mi chelle Obama or Pamela Anderson. Yet, like each of us, I wanted to steal features and parts of their personalities when I was younger.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PATH
For many of us – maybe all, the single thought of losing your way gets us in a choices’ dementia. It is the product of many people’s in fluence, in my opinion, for one person to understand where they are going in life. However, it is this person’s only task to reset regularly to avoid losing their end goal.
I permanently changed when I stepped back from society and worked a ‘normal’ 9 to 5. I changed when I reclaimed my freedom, forcing me to adult faster than I ever thought possible. As much as you need other people’s presence and support, craving loneliness signifies that you are ready to step up, evolve, and reroute your mind. You already have it all inside.
WE ALL HAVE DIFFERENT KEYS THAT OPEN OUR OWN DOORS. DON’T TRY TO OPEN SOMEONE ELSE’S DOOR; YOU WOULD RISK BREAKING YOUR KEY.
129SEPTEMBER 2022 |
IN THE LAND OF GUCCI, PUCCI & FIORUCCI
BY MENA LOMBARD
I have been in pursuit of it. Many life decisions I have made and still make are with that goal in mind. My idea of La Dolce Vita is one that, at its core, can encompass beauty and enjoyment in everything I experience. It sounds both simple and utopian at the same time, right? But I think we can all agree that dreams have a tendency to be that way. I envision my Dolce Vita as quite a mundane one. I like to find pleasure in the little and simple details of every
TRAVEL
EVER SINCE I LEARNED THE MEANING OF LA DOLCE VITA,
130 | SEPTEMBER 2022
day life; it seems the perfect recipe for happiness. Filling my day with interesting, elegant, and joyful experiences provides me with both peace and fulfillment. It is utopian, but at the same time, it sounds possible.
Federico Fellini’s legendary film gave birth to the concept of La Dolce Vita, and since then, such concept has been linked and tied to the Italian culture, but more precisely, to the Roman way of life. The idea of living
a life full of beauty, pleasure, and luxury is forever associated with the eternal city, and it is said that you can only find La Dolce Vita there. I am currently working on a project that brought me to Rome, and the experi ence of working and living in this incredible city has been nothing short of enlightening. During my time here, I have not only made remarkable discoveries about myself, but I have also been able to decode the mys
131SEPTEMBER 2022 |
tery and magic behind what it means to live La Dolce Vita. And this knowledge has allowed me to understand why life sounds and tastes sweeter in Italian. La Dolce Vita is linked to the Italian culture because of the unique char acteristics this one possesses. At the heart of everything you see, do, and experience in Italy, there are always three main elements present: color, sophistication, and fun. These are the three pillars on which the Italians create, build, and experience everything. Color, sophistication, and fun are the secret ingredients of their everyday life. Think of the delicious tiramisu, the breathtaking monuments, the timeless fashion, and the unforgettable get-togethers around the dining table. Everything in Italy re volves around colorful and sophisticated fun.
Color in Italy is omnipresent in everything you see. Every landscape, every building, and every dish has color as a main ingredient and as an essential design element. In Italy, color has character and personality, and it demands attention. Color is pivotal to Italian culture because it evokes emotions, and emotions run high in the Italian DNA. Take a walk down the Trastevere, and the richness of color will take your breath away. You will find yourself walking along narrow alleys among hues you have never seen before. The combination of centuries of use, weather, and paint has cre ated masterpieces in every wall you walk by. It seems that the years played artist and used all that stucco as its own personal canvas. As a result, every inch exudes an effortless sophisti
IT MEANS YOU LEARNED TO RELISH EACH TINT, SHADE, AND HUE SURROUNDING YOU. AND THAT YOU ARE BEING ABLE TO APPRECIATE THE ELEGANCE OF EVERY THOUGHT, CARE, AND COMMITMENT BEHIND EVERY MOMENT AND EVERY CREATION.
TRAVEL 132 | SEPTEMBER 2022
cation, almost as if time was singing and danc ing while fading each brick and block along the way.
Along with its colorfulness, Italy is, by na ture, sophisticated. Italian people are worldly and cultured and have thousands of years of history, experience, and learnings they live by. This has provided them with not only wisdom but also perspective, allowing them to appreci ate the little things and focus on the important ones. To Italians, quality, design, and longevity are essential. And they are because they clearly differentiate between what is important from what is not. To them, values and desires are very different from each other. Not only do they always keep that in mind, but they also act according to it. It is not that they don’t
have short-term whims. It is more about never forgetting about their long-term principles. That is present in everything they create. From the simplest cup of coffee to the time-worn walls of the Trastevere to the most mesmeriz ing Puccini’s operatic aria, there is always an element of sophistication present.
Last but not least, if there is something that Italians have and are, it is fun. At its core, Italian people and culture revolve around en joyment. Places, things, and moments have no meaning, no purpose, and no soul if they are not fun. This doesn’t mean that Italians cannot be serious. It means that to them, it all comes down to the experience. Their cre ations begin with an idea, but it doesn’t end when that idea becomes a reality. It ends when
that idea is being lived. Italians have used the concept of fun as a purpose and as a means to an end. Let’s take a dish of lasagna, for exam ple. Having a lasagna is fun by itself, but not only because it is made with dedication, using quality ingredients, or served beautifully on a plate. It is fun because when you go to any restaurant in Rome, you start enjoying your lasagna when you sit down at the table. The whole experience of chatting with the waiter, the conversations from the other tables, and the enjoyment of the decoration surrounding you is all part of the lasagna.
And then, we have the next level. When that same dish, or any other for that matter, becomes a means to an end. When the lasagna becomes the reason why people get together
133SEPTEMBER 2022 |
around a table to eat, talk, and catch up. That lasagna is still delicious, made with love, and served beautifully. But in addition to that, it became a few hours of time surrounded by people you care about and accompanied with talks, laughs, and the next plan to get togeth er. When the lasagna is a means to an end, it is when it fills your stomach with a delicious meal and your heart with joy, hope, and plans for the next gathering.
This is, so far, my newest discovery. But I would not be true to this fashion magazine or myself if I did not translate this knowledge into fashion terms. And, so, to wrap up, I want to say that I firmly believe that to live La Dolce Vita means that you have learned to see color like Pucci, breathe sophistication like Gucci and have fun like Fiorucci. Living a sweet life means that you are finding joy in everything you have and everything you do. It means you learned to relish each tint, shade, and hue sur rounding you. And that you are being able to appreciate the elegance of every thought, care, and commitment behind every moment and every creation. My personal Dolce Vita search has led me to this revelation. And I was able to discover and experience it all in the land of Gucci, Pucci, and Fiorucci.
TRAVEL
134 | SEPTEMBER 2022
VIRGO
23 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER
BY MANISH ARORA
You are resourceful, and there can be the chance to showcase your talents or put them to good use. This is a potentially excellent time for recognition for what you do well. This is a time when you need to define, understand, and crystallize your significant relationships with others. If you al-ready have a partner, this is a time when any issues surrounding compromise, flexibility, and the ability to give your heart to your partner will surface. Friendships with people whose cultural back-ground is very different than yours could be enlightening. Favorable Dates: Sep 1, 5, 10, 14, 19, 23 Favorable Colors: Red & White.
SCORPIO
LIBRA
23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER
This period in your life is a time for building a solid foundation. Understand that modera tion at this point in your life is necessary for your spiritual growth and your physical body as well. Financial ups and downs are possible, but the sooner you adjust to the idea of living with some uncertainty in this area, the better it would be. When it comes to income, you are challenged to think outside of the box to come up with viable plans to improve your finances. You want to take a leap of faith now. Favorable Dates: Sep 3, 6, 12, 15, 21, 24. Favorable Col ors: Yellow & Purple.
23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER
You may enjoy what you do daily more thor oughly now, or you might make aesthetic changes that improve your enjoyment of work, health pursuits, and daily goal-reaching. The social element of daily living and work can get a nice boost. You can be quite busy and involved with getting your life into order. This is a time for celebrating the fun or playful side of your life. Revelations about how you feel about a person or pursuit can come now and can in many ways define your attitude and approach to life. Favorable Dates: Sep 4, 8, 13, 17, 22, 26. Favorable Colors: Red & White.
SAGITTARIUS
22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER
This can be a time when you’re appreciated or sought out for your unique and special qualities. The path to empowerment may be through helping others, even if it’s only through conversation. Opening your heart, ac cepting, and understanding come easily to you in general. Responsibilities to partners, the need to compromise, and the realities of the needs of others, become clear. You are forced to begin seeing others as individuals, and to improve the way you relate to and with others.
Favorable Dates: Sep 3, 6, 12 15, 21, 24. Favor able Colors: Red & White.
ZODIAC
136 | SEPTEMBER 2022
PHOTO CREDITS FASHION DESIGNER: NATASHA TABUNOVA MODEL: HLEB TABUNOU PHOTOGRAPHER: FLÁVIO IRYODA RETOUCHER: LUIZ CAMARGO
ZODIAC
CAPRICORN
22 DECEMBER – 19 JANUARY
You’re feeling eager and enthusiastic about picking up useful informa tion, boosting your knowledge, and sharpening your skills this month. There can be increasing clarity in or about your relationships and re lationship needs. You can feel quite supported and motivated or excited about a relationship or business prospect now. You’re putting your unique personal stamp on whatever you’re doing, and this is a wonder ful process of self-discovery. You are especially hopeful and more inclined to believe that if you wish it, it will be. Favorable Dates: Sep 5, 7, 14, 16, 23, 25. Favorable Colors: Grey & Brown
AQUARIUS
20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY
You can study something, and you’ll uncover everything you can, becom ing an expert on it. You have energy when you work toward your future, and the dreams that you have. You can spend a lot of time thinking about your dreams, and what you hope to achieve in your life. A spirit of altruism and generosity, making connections with others from a dif ferent background, widening your mind through unusual or different experiences, expanded faith, and a feeling that anything is possible if you set your sights high enough are all themes. Favorable Dates: Sep 6, 7, 15, 16, 24, 25. Favorable Colors: Purple & Yellow.
PISCES
19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH
You enjoy expanding your life in new ways, having new experiences, and exploring the world. Let out your inner adventurer and have some fun. This is also a good time to make a transformation of some thing in your life. In relationships, you’re more passionate, but also more intense and possessive. You learn the value of brotherly love and the benefits of a sense of belonging
to a community. Events are such that you move towards a more ob jective approach to your life, and you cultivate true friendships. Fa vorable Dates: Sep 4, 8, 13, 17, 22, 26. Favorable Colors: Red & White.
ARIES
21 MARCH–19 APRIL
This period brings the reaping of many benefits from increased re spect for what you do. Many Aries will be forming solid new business partnerships at this time. Your busi ness income improves, and you now focus on going after your fondest hopes and wishes, not only mate rial and career goals. Your hunger for adventure or learning may come into focus. Some will face relation ship tests and trials, but strong partnerships survive and mature. Intuition increasingly becomes part of your belief system. You are more inclined to believe in the “unseen” in this month. Favorable Dates: Sep 2, 7, 11, 16, 25, 29. Favorable Col ors: Red & Yellow.
TAURUS
20 APRIL – 20 MAY
This is a fabulous month for net working and establishing pleasant and, in some cases, possibly even profitable friendships and group as sociations. Your friendships become more spiritual and idealistic. You are likely to attract people into your life who are understanding, nonjudg mental, and perhaps spiritually or artistically inclined. A somewhat mysterious or enchanting manner is with you in this month. You are much more willing to listen to oth ers and sympathize with them. A ro mantic affair may be tested. If love is true, there’s nothing to fear Favor able Dates: Sep 4, 8, 12, 15, 22, 26. Favorable Colors: Blue & White.
GEMINI
21 MAY – 20 JUNE
Your ideals are higher than usual, teaching may be part of the pic ture, and your cultural and spiritual
awareness increases. Others notice your more tolerant and broadmind ed nature. You will be bringing ben efits and fresh energy to networking activities, the formulation of broad long-term goals, acquaintances, clubs, and organizations. You can rely on your friends for their help and support, and your circle of friends may increase during this fruitful transit. You will be learning about letting go of your attachment to the drama of romance and per sonal relationships, as well as your willfulness. Favorable Dates: Sep 5, 7, 14, 16, 22, 29. Favorable Colors: Yellow & Purple.
CANCER
21 JUNE – 22 JULY
You could focus on a new dream that you have for your future and be more hopeful about your future than your present. A new idea could come to you, something you’d never normally come up with but now think would work out well. You may have opportunities to join or lead clubs or groups. Group activi ties and associations could be ave nues for fulfilling your own goals. You may take special joy in sharing ideals, a common cause, or a sense of belonging with others. Favorable Dates: Sep 6, 9, 15, 18, 21, 29. Fa vorable Colors: Yellow & Blue.
LEO 23 JULY – 22 AUGUST
You become much more driven and focused on your dreams for your future. You spend time thinking more about your future and exactly what you want out of it, and how you can get it. The present may be something you have a hard time dealing with. You could also decide to devote yourself to a cause and do something good for people or the planet. Reaching out beyond your personal circle can certainly open doors to you and bring joy into your life during this cycle. Favorable Dates: Sep 4, 10, 13, 16, 22, 25. Fa vorable Colors: Blue & Green.
139SEPTEMBER 2022 |
swimwearbycorsetticollection.com @corsetticollection