Northern Flow

NORTHERN FLOW ALASKAN RIVERS COMPILED & DESIGNED

BY ADELE WIEJACZKA

NORTHERN FLOW ALASKAN RIVERS COMPILED & DESIGNED

BY ADELE WIEJACZKA

NORTHERN FLOW: A Guide to Alaska’s Rivers Book compiled and designed by Adele Wiejaczka © 2012 with All Rights Reserved Made for GR 601 Type Systems Instructed by Carolina de Bartolo Spring 2012 at Academy of Art University Printed at Plotnet and bound at The Key Printing and Binding in Oakland

NORTHERN FLOW ALASKAN RIVERS COMPILED & DESIGNED

BY ADELE WIEJACZKA

CONTENTS

1

2

3

4 5 6

Forward 10 River Travel 14 Disclaimer General River Travel Alaskan River Risks River Safety Recommended Equipment Boaters Organizations Boat Types BOATING ALASKA 30 Getting Around Alaska Hunting/Fishing on the River River Classifications River Management Alaska Rivers 46 Arctic Slope Northwest Yukon River Basin Southwest Southcentral Southeast BROOKS RANGE 60 Arctic National Wildlife Refuge 68 Gates of the Arctic National Park 74

FOREWORD THE RIVER FINDS ITS WAY

BY SUSAN BEEMAN

On the Canning River in northeastern Alas-

of ice, the river disappearing between and

ka, two rafts bearing seasoned guides, tour-

below jumbled slabs and huge bergs. Bob

ists, and gear floated downstream under

managed to nose the bow toward a titled

clear skies on a hot day in late June 2000.

slab and Lisa stepped out, pulling the raft

Guides Bob Dittrick and Lisa Moorehead

out of the current.

knew the river well, but this time, it caught

Meanwhile, the other raft had got-

them by surprise. They rounded a bend

ten pinned against the aufeis where the

and suddenly found the water accelerating

river vanished underneath. The ice here

through rising walls of ice closing in from

formed a “cave,” with it’s “ceiling”

both shores. Bob and Lisa, in the lead boat,

angled upriver, forcing the people near-

looked for a gravelbar, a place to land, but

est the ice to crouch on the boat’s floor

saw only water rushing past 12-foot walls

to avoid getting crushed. When they tried

of aufeis (pronounced “off ice”), thick and

moving to the other side of the raft, it

layered and formed by successive freezing

dipped so much that water gushed in,

of stream overflows during fall. On previ-

nearly flipping the boat. Icebergs careen-

ous summer trips in the Arctic, the pair

ing downriver slipped under the raft

had rafted past expanses of aufeis still fro-

and disappeared. Anyone falling from

zen to the ground long after breakup, and

the raft would have been immediately

knew that the river had usually established

sucked under the ice, which extended for

normal channels through it by mid June to

acres downstream. Desperate to save

allow easy passage.

themselves, raft members groped for

The river split, and Bob, wielding the

fingerholds in the ice wall and began

oars, had to choose a fork. Seconds behind

pulling themselves, hand over hand,

him, the other raft swung down the adja-

upriver against the current. Ten min-

cent chute. In the narrowing passage,

utes later, they had advanced 20 feet

Bob’s oar tips began to bump ice. Ragged,

to a relatively slack spot. Guide Tim

frozen ice walls leaned toward the boaters.

Schantz clamped the raft’s bowline

The current spun the raft in a cul-de-sac

in his teeth.

He began a painstaking climb up the

Bob, Lisa, and the others in their party

ice wall. Nearing the top, he slipped, fall-

survived the Canning River crisis. The

ing back to the raft. The others lost their

couple now has a keener sense of their own

grip, and they floated back into the cave.

safety comfort levels. They are much more

Frightened and with adrenaline rushing,

conservative about stopping to spend time

they summoned the strength to pull them-

scouting, even if it means extending their

selves back to the slack spot once more.

schedule. They carry walkie–talkies for

Time climbed the wall again, this time

communication, something they’d always

reaching the top.

resisted before, seeing too much technol-

By then, Bob had made his way there.

ogy as an encroachment on the wilderness

From the edge of the wall, he climbed

experience. And they hope their story will

down the rope Time held for support. After

serve as a valuable lesson for other pad-

hoisting the clients to the top of the ice,

dlers. Alaska has more than 3,000 rivers,

the guides hauled the gear up piece-by-

several million lakes, and 33,900 miles of

piece, then finally the boats. The group

coastline, including island shores—these

wasn’t out of danger yet, though for ice

waterways demand respect.

chunks crashed the river nearby, and the

Most recreational boating trips in

boaters knew the platform on which they

Alaska don’t include such harrowing expe-

sprawled could collapse beneath them.

riences, yet the swift, cold waters of the

While the group rested with Lisa, Bob

north periodically remind newcomers and

and Tim scouted for a safe route to dry

expert paddlers alike who’s boss. This cau-

ground. Forty–five minutes later, they

tionary tale claims its place ahead of the

returned, having found what looked like a

adventures, discoveries, and just plain fun

viable way off the ice. But because of the

of plying the state’s waterways presented

sand and silt deposited by the river flowing

within these pages.

over the ice surface, they could not “sled”

Even calm waters hold surprises: a

the rafts fully loaded, and instead had to

diving loon, fish for the frying pan, the

ferry each item of gear separately until

setting sun’s reflection. Whatever the

they reached a place downriver where they

wonder, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, and

could descend the aufeis, reload the boats,

sailing journeys in Alaska provide dra-

and paddle across one last channel to safe

matic scenery, wildlife watching oppor-

ground. The task, says Bob, took “hours

tunities, and solitude. “Northern Flow”

and hours,” but finally, with all people,

takes readers along the ride to all cor-

gear and rafts accounted for, they camped.

ners of the state with stories by outdoor

Ice continued to drop in chunks and disap-

enthusiasts who know these waters well.

pear downstream.

All of them learn something new about

Three hours later, the river had com-

wilderness, or about themselves, each

pleted cutting its new channels through the

time they venture into the backcountry.

aufeis and was back to normal.

“The river finds its way,” Lisa says.

“I’ve always experienced that. But this time it hadn’t quite finished.”

10 NORTHERN FLOW

FORWORD 11

CHAPTER 1 RIVER TRAVEL

DISCLAIMERS & WARNINGS

novice kayakers do poorly in big, turbulent

This guidebook describes some of the

ones. It is each individual boaters respon-

numerous whitewater rivers and creeks

sibility to know their boat and their person

in Alaska. However, rivers are dynamic

skill level and assess that to each river.

and stream conditions frequently change, so this guidebook is not a substitute for recent, local knowledge and careful scouting. Paddlers are encouraged to scout every drop, regardless of how many times they have run the river. Obstructions can become lodged in a drop overnight, posing potential deathtraps to the boater who paddles into the unaware. Because stream character and difficulty can change widely with changes in flow, careful attention to the water level you encounter versus that described is mandatory. This is a guidebook to whitewater, and even the easiest whitewater runs can be beyond the ability of novice canoers, kayakers, or rafters, who are advised to begin with flat water and gradually work their way up the difficulty scale.

Novices should seek the advice and companionship of experienced paddlers rather than be tempted to try learning alone. Not all runs are suitable for every kind of watercraft, and in particular, rafters do poorly in small, rocky rivers, and

General River Travel Alaska has over 3,000 rivers. The Yukon River discharges 240,000 cubic feet per second at the mouth, making it the fifth ranked US river. The mighty Yukon River (2,300 miles total, 1,875 in Alaska) ranks third in length of US rivers behind the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers.

The largest glacial river, such as the Chitina (pronounced CHIT–na), Copper, Alsek, Bremner, and Susitna, often have a number of channels, constantly changing and moving, giving the river a “braided� appearance. Many are shallow in some places, often less than 6 inches deep at times.

With brown glacial water, it is tough to read the river by looking for water depth or white wave crests; everything (including the gravel, sand, and mud bars) is generally brown. When paddling rivers, your goal is to follow the fastest, deepest water, which is not the same as the shortest route.

The fast, deep water swings to the out-

your fire in to avoid scaring the ground.

side of bends and is very consistently found

Used ashes should be buried or disposed

below steep banks, either the big ones seen

of in the river.

miles head or little dirt or gravel banks

Bury your feces away from the river

you can see being cut into the current.

and from campsites and burn or carry out

The fast water swings side to side, and you

toilet paper and all trash. Except in the

should be prepared to go with it. There is

hottest fires burning for a long time, alu-

usually little point in actually paddling

minum foil will not oxidize and so it needs

or rowing downstream; rather, you should

to be carried out.

be trying to be in the fastest downstream current. Avoid like the plague any braids

Alaskan River RISKs

or channels which lead into islands with

In Alaska, you will not be boating with

vegetation; they are invariably shallow. In

crowds, so you need to be aware of your

very shallow water, avoid rippled water, you

ability and take precautions, because the

are looking for the smooth, deeper stuff.

risks in Alaska can be high. To avoid acci-

Always be looking down stream while trav-

dents, do not paddle into anything you

eling rivers, because you will soon be there

cannot see. Stop and scout, then portage

and it is easier to be prepared for certain

if necessary.

On the river, each member of your

boat maneuvers in advance.

Traveling rivers in the arctic environ-

party should know the standard paddle

ment is a fragile and delicate setting and

signs devised by Dr. Walt Black and pop-

precautions and care must be taken to pre-

ularized by the AWA (American White-

serve the natural landscape. Rivers such as

water Affiliation), please see the figure

the Gulkana and Tatshenshini are heavily

below. Dry suits are a requirement

traveled, meaning that there it little drift-

for running Alaskan rivers in order to

wood and limited number of campsites.

stay warm. They differ from wet suit

Gather dead branches from trees rather

because the paddler will actually stay

than cutting them down. Be sure to bring

dry in the suit, versus a wetsuit, which

along a fire pan or fireproof cloth to make

uses the water to help insulate.

“EMERGENCY”

“STOP” “GO”

14 NORTHERN FLOW

This is important because the water

someone or there is no hope of survival for

temperatures in Alaska are so cold and the

them. It’s important to consider the state

paddler can wear layers of clothing under-

of the rescuers as well.

neath the dry suit. Dry suits also provide

Your trip should be written out for peo-

extra flotation to supplement that of a per-

ple at home as well as your pilot is you

sonal flotation device.

use one, in case you do not returned at

Spare gear is crucial while traveling

your intended time. It should specify the

Alaskan rivers. All boats should carry

equipment you are using, any sort of radio

extra paddles as well as extra dry cloth-

or communication devices you have, and

ing at all times. A knife and fire–start-

expected travel and return plans.

ing kit are also essential. Rive rope and/

Shoulder dislocations, rotator cuff

or a throw bag is mandatory as well, but

tears, and strains are the most acute inju-

you must practicing throwing and using

ries afflicting kayakers and they are bet-

them because rope in water is particularly

ter prevented than cured. Practicing cor-

dangerous if uncontrolled. In the severe

rect boating and rolling techniques can

case that you go for a swim and actually

help to prevent injury. Tendonitis is also

lose your boat, hang onto your paddles and

common, resulting from friction and

be sure to wear shoes that you can hike in

wear of tendons, primarily in the wrists

when you reach shore.

of kayakers form overuse. Pain, swelling,

Most rivers in Alaska are so remote,

and actual squeaking can limit ability to

that if an emergency takes place, finding

paddle long distances. Prevention and

immediate help is difficult. If you chose

correct technique is the best way to

to perform CPR on someone, you will

avoid further injury.

rarely be able to get medical assistance in time. Carrying a satellite phone can help you reach the outside world while traveling remotely. Be sure to clarify with authorities the type of situation you are in, whether you are trying to still rescue

“GO RIVER LEFT”

“GO RIVER RIGHT”

“DANGER”

CHAPTER ONE 15

Alaskan BEARS

sider bringing bear repellent spray and/

Bears are part of the natural scene in

or a gun. Keep in mind that 95 percent of

Alaska, one must expect to see them.

brown bears will immediately leave upon

Problematic bears on river trips in Alaska

encountering you. Remember that if you

are typically brown bears in coastal

shoot and kill and bear, you will have to

regions or along streams with salmon

skin and transport the hide to the nearest

runs. The term “grizzly” being reserved

Fish and Game Office. You may not keep

for the smaller, wider–ranging and prob-

bears killed in defense of life or property

ably ornerier interior geographic subtype.

unless it’s bear season and you have a

Black bears are generally kept away by

hunting license and a bear tag. As always,

the browns. Brown bear density is higher

if you carry a gun, you need to practice

near salmon streams and runs, however,

shooting it and be clear about your shoot-

traveling in a decent sized river in a boat

ing ability. Be sure to keep your gun dry

provides a safety net. Also, traveling

and close to hand at all times.

glacial rivers with little to no fish also

Mosquitoes are a huge bother in Alas-

reduces your chances of issues with brown

kan summers, especially around water-

bears. Some of the worst potential prob-

ways. Insect repellent and full–length

lems occur in narrow, shallow spawning

light–colored clothing are necessities.

streams (Prairie Creek on the Talkeetna

Smokey campfires and wind blowing over

tributaries of the Chackachatna) where

your gravel bar campsite also help to keep

bears stand knee deep in the stream. Oth-

the mosquitoes away.

erwise, camping on the shore can be the

Going on solo trips will always be

highest risk. Salmon runs don’t generally

more of a risk than group trips, but not

start until the end of June and finish in

impossible. To be safe on a solo trip just

late August, so consider picking your time

requires a little more preparation and

accordingly.

pre–planning along with smart choices.

That said, bear problems cannot be sim-

Concentrating on one’s own run is the

ply avoided. Salmon, bears, and kayakers

best safety measure, whether you are

all like the same clear streams in midsum-

on a solo or group trip. If you do travel

mer, and you’ll have to camp on the shore

with a group of people, it is crucial that

part of the time on multiday trips. Try to

the river sections you are paddling are

keep food and cooking out of tents. Keep

feasible for the weakest paddler of the

rafts, gear, and clothes free of food smells.

group as well.

Avoid camping on visible bear trails. Con-

16 NORTHERN FLOW

BLACK BEAR Straight muzzle

No prominent shoulder hump Smaller build Males=250 lbs.

Female=150 lbs.

Short curved claws

GRIZZLY BEAR Prominent shoulder hump Large head

Chunky build Males=450 lbs.

Female=250 lbs.

Flat face

Long claws

CHAPTER ONE 17

River Safety

Nature of the water: Being familiar

The keys to safe boating, according to Alaska’s Office of Boating Safety, are “education, skill, attitude, and sound, unimpaired

judgments.” University

of

Alaska Sea Grant’s book Water Wise: Safety for the Recreational Boater, also address factors to consider before launching a boating trip: the type and condition

with the type of water and skill required to travel through that area is imperative.

Understanding where to scout rapids or the best launch area will greatly improve a trip and reduce boating incidents. Consider the ocean tide schedule, the river’s course and classification, daily fluctuations, or the lake’s idiosyncrasies.

of the boat, who will be on board or in the

Emergency Training: The best safety

group, route and destination, the environ-

precaution is knowledge. Having CPR,

ment, the equipment, and what might go

first aid, and emergency training can help

wrong with any of these.

in many potential situations. Don’t forget

Hypothermia, disorientation, and bear

a full first aid kit and make sure everyone

encounters are just a few challenges Alas-

on the trip knows where the first aid kit

ka’s recreational boaters face. Other mat-

is at all times.

ters to contemplate include:

Personal

Experience: Understanding

Personal Flotation Device (PDF): Prop-

personal abilities and limitations will help

erly fit size and fit your PDF to each

a group travel effectively and efficiently

individual on the trip. PDF’s need to be

together. It’s important to be honest

approved by the US Coast Guard (USCG)

about abilities. Consider experience with

and in good condition to work correctly.

a particular type of watercraft and pad-

PDF’s need to be worn at all times while

dle duration before exhaustion. Be sure

on the water, so make sure that it is a com-

to practice paddling your boat of choice,

fortable style.

including Eskimo rolls and other self

Communication:

Every

boating

trip

should incorporate some type of communication device(s) into the trip, potentially including marine VHF radio, flares, or walkie–talkies. Leave behind a float plan with someone who will notify the authorities if you don’t return when expected.

arrest methods. Capsizing is the leading cause of death among recreational boaters due to the cold temperatures of Alaska waters. In 2001, there were 21 recreational boating fatalities in Alaska with more than half of them being paddlers. Even though Alaska offers long hours of daylight in the summer, it

Weather: Understanding the weather con-

doesn’t mean that they should be filled

ditions and environment the trip will be

with traveling.

taking place in is an important and crucial planning step for river travel. Put together back–up plans in case there is bad weather, including potential camp areas.

Navigation: Be sure to be able to read a chart and compass.

18 NORTHERN FLOW

Wildlife: Correctly store food for the area that you are traveling through to avoid dangerous animal encounters, particularly black and brown bears.

Use bear barrels or hang food.

Rules required by the State of Alaska: ▶ All persons under 13 must wear a properly sized USCG approved PFD. ▶ All boaters must carry a properly sized, wearable USCG approved PFD. ▶ Nonmotorized boats 10 feet or longer must be registered with the State of Alaska, Department of Motor Vehicles. ▶ For more information, visit the website www.alaskaboatingsafety.org

TYPES OF PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES Type I: Off–shore life jacket

Type II: Near–shore buoyant vest

Type III: Flotation aid

Type IV: Throwable device

CHAPTER ONE 19

Equipment There are some special considerations in Alaskan paddling which may mean that equipment choices suitable for the Lower 48 are not the best for river travel in Alaska. The rivers are bigger, longer, colder, and vastly farther away from civilization, often requiring air access. Clothing should be warmer, kayaks longer, faster, with more storage space, and rafts should be smaller for fly–ins.

Many of the rivers in Alaska open and become available to float by boat sometime in May. As spring brings on warmer temperatures, ice on the rivers “breaks–up” and begins to float down stream while also melting and raising the water levels. Even small creeks become available to boat in the springtime because the river systems float with all the melting snow. Thus, in early season there may still be snow on the banks when streams become navigable.

There is also a plethora of light in Alaska in the summer time, with the length of daylight reaching 18 hours in May and around 20 or more in June in northern Alaska.

Temperatures steadily rise and generally reach a peak in July. Lowest precipitation months are April and May, followed by June, and the risk of rain increases steadily until October, at which time rain increases steadily until October, at which time rain turns to snow. Coastal temperatures tend to hover around 50–60 degrees F and are never above 70. Interior temperatures can climb as high as 90 degrees F, and many river travelers wish they were wearing t– shirts instead of dry suits.

20 NORTHERN FLOW

Water temperatures fall into two categories: near 32 degrees F for glacial streams coming right of the ice, and clear streams and rivers which can approach 54 degrees F in August. Some, like the Copper River located in the Copper Basin, are a mixture of the two water temperatures, and because the glacial sources predominate in later summer, river temperature actually goes down. September can be chilly, and October can be very cold.

Bringing maps and other navigational aids on the river is important and helpful.

USGS topographical maps are crucial for orientation, navigation, and for offering clues as to which way is the fastest way out. GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) is also a helpful tool. On the river, down in a canyon, with relatively few landmarks, and no way to see past the canyon walls, navigation is quite difficult unless you have an altimeter. Since typical canyon runs drop at a rate of at least 100 feet per mile, and good altimeters read about in 20–foot increments, you can locate your position to plus or minus a fifth of a mile.

Some rivers, such as the Tatshenshini, Alsek, and Lower Eagle Rivers, require permits for private trips. Access to rivers in national parks is limited by regulations against helicopters, and in Denali Park by regulations against some uses of private vehicles on the park road.

ALASKA PADDLER’S Organizations Knik Canoers and Kayakers (KCK) has been welcoming paddlers to its meetings and club outings for nearly 30 years. With about 200 members, the organization has enough resources to offer classes (taught by volunteers) on rafting, kayaking, and canoeing. Members can also join trips around Southcentral Alaska. KCK has an annual boating safety meeting, sometimes including a slide show or pot luck and open to the public. Members participate in the Anchorage Waterways Council Annual Creek Cleanup, the Alaska Sea Kayak Symposium, and Canoe Fun Day. Fairbanks Paddlers, says the organization president Brad Snow, is all about camaraderie, rivers, the Alaska wilderness, and fun. Started in 1994, it now has about 250 members. The club’s goals, says Snow, are simple: to be a source of information, talent, and inspiration and to reach out to aspiring paddlers. Members also organize events such as the Chena River Slalom Race, held every July in Fairbanks.

The Anchorage Rowing Association boasts about 100 members in its fourth season. The association offers classes from basic through intermediate level. Members practice on Sand Lake in Anchorage and sponsor week–long camps with national

Kenai Crewsers was started in 1997 soon after a woman from Cooper Landing pinned recruitment notices in the Cooper Landing and Moose Pass Post Offices one fall. By midwinter, about 40 paying members had signed up. They bought two boats, then realized they needed a coach, so called Marietta “Ed” Hall of Anchorage, an experienced competitive rower.

The Crewsers now compete regionally and nationally, with some members attending rowing camps outside Alaska.

Alaska Marine Safety Education Association (AMSEA) is “a community–based information and training network” that offers age–appropriate classes and workshops covering the use of immersion suits and PFDs; practicing maydays, cold water survival skills, rescue breathing, CPR, emergency drills, and trip planning. They also recognize safe and unsafe ice and other water conditions. They offer Marine Safety

Instructor

Training

(MSIT)

courses that are USCG approved.

The Alaska Kayak School, in Homer, offers paddling instruction and coaching in sea kayak, whitewater kayak, surf kayak, open canoe and safety and rescue skills for Alaskan conditions. Certified instructors of the American Canoe Association and coaches trained by the British Canoe Union teach our courses and guide our instructional tours.

coaches at Lake Lucille in Wasilla.

With the help of the Anchorage Rowing Association, the fledgling Fairbanks Rowing Club is beginning to draw membership and acquire boats. The club plans to offer classes and participate in competitions.

CHAPTER ONE 21

Boat Types Modern white water rafts come in two basic types: self–bailers and catarafts.

Self–bailers have the traditional raft shape, and catarafts, known as ‘cats’ for short, are made of a pair of pontoons straddled by a metal frame.

The floor of a self–bailing raft is a wide flat inflated chamber, sort of like a big air–mattress. The edges of the floor are stitched or laced to the rest of the raft, allowing water to flow in and out, while the flotation of the sides keep it afloat.

When inflated, the floor is about 4 or 5 inches thick, so the top surface of the floor is above the surface of the water.

When water splashes into the boat, it flows across the floor, over the edge, and out through the lacing. This design works amazingly well. A self–bailer filled to the brim with water will proceed to empty itself in just a few seconds.

If you’ve ever bailed water out of a raft, you know how sweet it is to have a self bailer. In fact, if you float with someone who has an older non–self–bailing raft (known as a bucket boat because it retains water), you get to stop and wait for them to bail at the bottom of each major rapid.

So, nowadays, rafts refer to the self–bailer.

Self–bailers are the work horses on a raft trip because they can carry a lot of gear and passengers. Popular sizes are from 13 to 18 feet long, with 14 feet the typical minimum for carrying the gear and two adults on a multi–day raft trip. 15–16 feet is ideal, and 18 footers are nice to have on larger rivers. From a performance standpoint, rowing a self–bailer is more like driving a bus. So the longer the raft, the slower it is to maneuver. The performance of any raft is diminished if it is overloade.

22 NORTHERN FLOW

Catarafts are far more maneuverable than self–bailers but carry less weight.

They’re the sports cars of the river. Like sports cars, they carry fewer passengers, but provide a lot of fun for the driver. If you’re new to rafting, you would be well advised to consider buying a cataraft as your first raft. Their maneuverability will help you recover when you misjudge a rapid and they are just plain fun.

If you live near enough to a white water river so that you can go boating on the weekend, a cataraft is the ideal raft for a day trip. Cats are also ideal for high water or extreme multi–day trips when each participant will row their own raft.

Sizes of catarafts are described as pairs of dimensions separated by “×”, like “12×20”, “16×24”. The first number is the length in feet, and the second number is the diameter of the pontoons in inches. So a cat that is 12×20 is 12 feet long with pontoons or “tubes” as they are referred to that are 20 inches in diameter.

Self–bailing paddle rafts can be set up with a rigid metal (or on rare occasions, wood) frame that rests across the top of the raft, to which oar locks are mounted and oars attached. The other configuration is to leave the frame and oars at home and just use paddles, thus called a paddle raft. It’s just a term for a self–bailer that is set up with inflated seats known as thwarts for passengers to sit on.

Passengers are obligated to row, or more accurately, paddle the boat down the river. While this means work for the passengers, it makes for a very entertaining, social (and usually wet) ride! Most commercial river guide services run paddle boats.

The normal configuration for a paddle boat is to have a captain (meaning skilled

are so light that it is easy for the oarsman to pull back, arresting the momentum.

and knowledgeable guide) sitting at the

Less a vessel for fishing than river run-

rear of the boat giving paddling orders to

ning on either long, multi–night float trips

the crew and using their paddle to steer

or day trips through Class IV+ water,

or make fine adjustments to speed and

whitewater rafts are the vessel of choice

direction. The crew makes up the rest of

for the river recreationist. These rafts are

the passengers, with half of the people on

big, heavy, expensive, nearly indestructible

each side.

and can carry massive amounts of gear.

Most of the paddle strokes that a pad-

A kayak has a deck which covers the

dle raft crew takes to steer the boat propel

entire boat except for a hole (cockpit)

the boat forward. Therefore paddle boats

in which the occupant sits. Traditionally

move down the river faster than other

the cockpit is an opening to the inside of

boats. Self bailers are next fastest. Fully

the hull, and the kayaker wears a flexible

loaded self–bailers carry a lot of momen-

skirt which, when attached to the rim of

tum and offer a lot of surface area to the

the cockpit, seals the kayak and keeps

river. So friction with the water causes

the kayaker’s lower half dry and warm.

them to be dragged along easily by the

An alternative is for the hull and deck to

current. Since it’s a lot more work to fight

be sealed together.

against these factors, the steering strokes

In that case, the cockpit would just

that the person at oars takes are usually

be a shaped depression in the deck.

forward strokes.

Either way, the kayak will not fill with

The boatman just tries to adjust the

water in rough conditions, making it

direction or vector of the boats natural

great in whitewater and more chal-

movement down the river. It may be sur-

lenging rapids.

prising to know that catarafts are usually

Kayaks are available to suit very dif-

the slowest at traveling down the river as

ferent conditions. Kayaks are seldom

they offer less surface area for friction and

more than twenty–four inches wide.

Play kayak Creek kayak Sea kayak

Cataraft Canoe Raft

24 NORTHERN FLOW

Kayaks are a valuable single person ves-

Creek boats and play boats are both

sel while on rivers. Although very different

hard–shelled kayaks made of various rigid

than rafts, they have their own advantages

plastics. Play boats have no keel and don’t

and disadvantages. There are a few differ-

track in a straight line. This makes them

ent types of kayaks including creek boats,

very maneuverable and agile. The cockpit

play boats, inflatable kayaks and sea kay-

is tight and designed to keep you in the

aks. These are all sit–in style kayaks that

boat even in rough conditions. The boats

generally have a more efficient hull design;

are usually short, less than ten feet, while

allow for greater gear storage; are dryer,

play boats are less than seven feet.

allowing for an extended paddling season

Creek boats attempt to combine track-

for most paddlers; a properly fitted cockpit

ing and turning in a smaller hull that

(the area you sit in) will allow the pad-

will appeal to beginner and low intensity

dler to very effectively use his/her body to

paddlers. These kayaks usually have high

control the boat. A properly fitted white

initial stability and large cockpits. These

water, sea, or touring kayak should become

boats are perfect for flat water, lakes,

an extension of the paddler’s body. Some

ponds, and gentle rivers and creeks but

would say you wear the boat rather than

usually not whitewater. Many serve as

sit in it. Sit in style kayaks will have differ-

excellent platforms for fishing, hunt-

ent size cockpits depending on the type of

ing, or photography. They also are much

boat and water conditions anticipated. The

faster than play boats because they track

raised lip around the cockpit (the cockpit

well and are better for long expeditions

combing) allows a skirt (or spray deck)

because they can carry more gear.

to be utilized by the paddler. Skirts keep

Canoeing is the activity of sitting

water–either from dripping off the paddle,

in and manually propelling a canoe (a

or from waves–from entering the boat.

small, narrow boat) across waterways

Just in case, be sure to have some means of

using a single bladed paddle. Canoe-

bailing the boat, such as a pump, sponge or

ing can be recreational, undertaken as

scoop. Bulkheads (walls within the kayak)

a competitive sport and used as basic

form barriers limiting water infiltration,

transportation and is a great way to

and with a properly fitted hatch cover, pro-

build muscle strength and flexibility in

vide a margin of safety through flotation.

the upper body. Canoeing and kayaking

There is no use for sea kayaks on the rivers, until you get to the open ocean,

involve the use of muscles in the upper and lower body.

because they are designed for open ocean

Canoes are propelled using a single,

paddling. They are usually low in the water

or double bladed paddle, while kneeling

to reduce effects of cross winds, measure

or sitting in a boat. Kayaking however,

fifteen feet or more, most have smaller

involves only double bladed paddles

cockpit openings, many will have bulk-

while the user is sitting, with their legs

heads and smaller access hatches. Some

out in front of them. Canoes are one of

have skegs or rudders to help compensate

the most primitive forms of transpor-

for the effects of a wave or cross wind pat-

tation and ultimately can carry more

tern, amongst other features that help in

than a kayak.

open water.

CHAPTER ONE 25

CHAPTER 2 BOATING ALASKA

Getting Around Alaska

(for two) than a Super Cub (for one), but

Many of Alaskan rivers are only acces-

the Super Cub can go places that no other

sible by plane. The Bremner, Tasnuna,

aircraft can except a helicopter. Partly, the

Nadina,

Upper

cost of plane and pilot are shared by a

Chickaloon, Cheshnina, and Wortman’s

larger group, but generally the larger the

Rivers require costly helicopter flights.

aircraft, the more it costs per hour but

The Allen, Aniakchak, Happy, Lake Creek,

the faster it goes as well. The Super Cub,

and Skwentna Rivers require flying both

which in some circumstances can land and

in and out. Several trips, the Nellie Juan,

take off in less than 50 yards, has a cruis-

Chackachatna, and Skwentna–Yentna–

ing speed only a little less than 100 knots

Sustina rivers that empty into the ocean

and costs about $165 per hour (in 1993),

and require tidewater pick–ups. The Alsek

carrying one passenger. It is best suited

and Copper Rivers also end at tidewater,

for short–range hops into gravel bars. To

but few people paddle out from them

carry a kayak on a Super Cub (easiest

along the exposed Gulf of Alaska coast.

with a full–length 13–foot 4–inch boat)

Sometimes you can hike out of trips

the stern of the kayak is inserted into the

including the Caribou Creek, Kings, and

front landing gear triangle, and the bow

Gakona River.

is supported from lifting handles on the

Upper–upper

Tsaina,

When considering air charters, you

fuselage and tied down.

must take several factors into account.

Even though a larger party might

First of all, the larger the plane that is

drop down the per–person flying costs,

used (if it can be used) the larger land-

boaters whose skills are inadequate for

ing and take–off space is needed, but the

the run are not good to bring along on

lower the per–person costs, if you fill the

a remote trip.

plane. So generally a DeHavilland Otter

The closer the pilot is to the river,

is cheaper per person (for six) than

the less it will cost you and the more

a DeHavilland Beaver (for four) than a

familiar the pilot will be with the

Cessna 206 (for three) than a Cessna 185

area and the weather conditions.

Thus, use the Kenai pilots for flights to the west side of Cook Inlet, the Gulkana pilots for the Wrangells, the Talkeetna pilots for the Susitna Basin, Yakutat pilots to get out of Dry Bay after the Alsek or Tatshenshini, Tok pilots for the Charley, etc. Relatively few charters originate from Anchorage because most rivers near Anchorage are generally large float–equipped planes operating out of Lake Hood; it’s almost impossible to find a Super Cub for charter in Anchorage.

Determine whether your put–in requires landing on wheels or floats because not all air taxi outfits have both types of aircraft or expertise in using them. These days, Cliff Hudson & Sons in Talkeetna and Fishing & Flying in Cordova and Yakutat are the only ones who do it all: floats, wheels, and skis. Interestingly, both outfits are family owned: father–son (Cliff and Jay Hudson) and mother/son (Gayle and Steve Ranney).

Use a reputable air service and avoid flying with amateurs, even on scouting trips.

Tell your pilot what you’d like to do and they will let you know if it’s possible.

Flying rafts around, figure that a Super Cub cab carry a medium–sized raft plus gear with no passengers, or a tiny raft with one passenger. A 185 can carry a medium– sized raft, light gear, and 2 passengers. A 206 can carry a medium sized raft, gear, and three people. A Beaver can carry any size raft and four people, and an Otter any size raft and six people. Oars of seven feet will have to go tied on the wing struts of a Super Cub, 8–footers will have to go outside a 185, and a 206 (depending on the seating arrangement) can handle anything up to and including 9–footers inside.

Consider take–apart Cataract oars from Advanced Composites (1154 S. 300 W., Salt Lake City, UT 84101).

30 NORTHERN FLOW

Hunting & Fishing As visitors to wilderness, we hardly need to rely upon the harvesting of resources for our own survival. Even with our high–tech clothing, equipment, and food, however, we may feel some underlying need to connect with the land by hunting or fishing. But local rural residents depend upon Alaska’s limited resources, and each year these resources are more in demand by sport and trophy hunters, commercial and sport fishers, subsistence hunters and fishers, and poachers.

A recreational river user may consider a frying pan full of fish a vital part of his or her experience, but the subsistence user of that river often sees this as taking fish from the mouths of his family.

Villagers have concerns that recreational users catch too many fish and drive away wildlife. One year on the Kobuk River, 85 people in seven planes flew in to sportfish, and they drove away the caribou and moose. Federal law gives preference in harvesting Alaska’s fish and wildlife to subsistence users.

Sport hunting is allowed in national wildlife refuges and in national preserves, and on lands managed by the Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, and the state. Rural residents are permitted to continue traditional subsistence activities in national wildlife refuges, national preserves, and in seven of the nation parks. You may encounter locals hunting, fishing, trapping, or berry picking, or cutting trees for firewood or house logs. Before you hunt or fish in Alaska, learn about the region and river you are visiting. While fish are abundant in some areas, fish in Northern rivers grow very slowly

in the short summer season. The char you catch could be 25 years old. Instead of catching a pan full of grayling, be thankful that they eat mosquito larvae. Consider limiting any fishing to catch-and-release or limiting your consumption of fish in areas of low productivity that are heavily fished.

A number of Alaska rivers lend themselves to fishing en route. Generally, the glacially silted turbid rivers are useless for sport fishing (the fish can’t see the lure), even though rivers like the Copper support runs of millions of salmon. Most clear streams, and come clear tributaries of glacial streams will have fishing in season, but most whitewater rivers in Alaska will keep the boater preoccupied with paddling versus fishing. The Talachulitna River, Chilikodrotna River, and Mulchatna River are primarily fishing floats. The Charley, Chulitna, Delta, Gilahina, Gulkana, Happy, Kenai, Little Susitna, Newhalen, Talkeetna, Lake Creek, and Tonsina all have good fishing potential as well.

CHAPTER TWO 31

Cessna 185

DeHavilland Beaver

32 NORTHERN FLOW

Cessna 206

Super Cub

CHAPTER TWO 33

River Classification System Whitewater is rated on a scale of increasing difficulty from Class 1 to Class 6. This classification system provides a useful guide to the technical difficulty of a river, but there are so many other variables that can have a huge impact on the difficulty or danger of a river. Is it continuous in nature or drop and pool? Is the water warm or freezing in temperature? How remote is the run and how far away is help? Can you walk out if need be, or is it in a canyon? Is portaging an option for all rapids, or are you committed to running everything? As you can see, there can be massive differences between two rivers of the same class. For this reason, it’s your responsibility to find out more about any river you’re considering paddling. For many areas, there are guidebooks with detailed descriptions and images of the rivers, and more of these are available each year. It’s always a good idea to pick one of these up. You can also ask questions on On–line chartboards or stop in at the local retailer for information. You can never be too well informed.

International Scale of River Difficulty as defined by American Whitewater. River difficulty classification is not an exact science, and classifications may change drastically for particular rivers during high or low water periods. All rivers can rise dramatically during spring run–off. Glacier fed rivers can increase in water level and velocity on sunny summer days due to glacial melting. The symbol “+” is sometimes added to classifications to signal a partial–class increase.

Class I (easy) Fast moving water with riffles and small waves. The river has few obstructions which are all obvious and easily missed with little training. The risk to swimmers is slight and self–rescue is easy.

Class II (novice) Straightforward rapids with wide, clear channels which are evident without scouting. Occasional maneuvering may be required, but rocks and medium sized waves are easily missed by trained paddlers. Swimmers are seldom injured and group assistance, while helpful, is seldom needed.

Class I

34 NORTHERN FLOW

Class II

Class III

Class III (intermediate) Rapids with moderate, irregular waves which may be difficult to avoid and which can swamp an open canoe. Complex maneuvers in fast current and good boat control in tight passages or around ledges are often required. Large waves or strainers may be present but are easily avoided. Strong eddies and powerful current effects can be found, particularly on larger volume rivers. Scouting is advisable for inexperienced parties. Injuries while swimming are rare and self–rescue is usually easy but group assistance may be required to avoid long swims. Rapids that are at the lower or upper end of this difficulty range are designated with a plus or minus sign.

Class IV (advanced) Intense and powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. The rapids may feature large, unavoidable waves and holes or constricted passages demanding fast maneuvers under pressure. A fast and reliable eddy turn may be needed to initiate maneuvers, scout rapids, or rest. Rapids may require mandatory moves above dangerous hazards. Scouting is usually necessary the first time down. The risk of injury to swimmers is moderate to high and water conditions may make self–rescue difficult. Group assistance for rescue is often essential and requires practiced skills. A strong eskimo roll is highly recommended for kayakers.

Class V (expert) Extremely long, obstructed, or very violent rapids which expose a paddler to added risk. Rapids may contain large, unavoidable waves and holes or steep, congested chutes with complex, demanding routes. Rapids may continue for long distances between pools, demanding a high level of fitness. The eddies that exist may be small, turbulent, or difficult to reach. More difficult Class V rapids may combine several of these factors. Scouting is recommended and may be difficult. Swims are dangerous and rescue is often difficult even for teams of experts. Proper equipment, extensive experience, and practiced rescue skills are essential. There is a large range of difficulty that exists beyond Class IV which makes the difficulty of Class V rapids very diverse.

Class IV

Class V

Class VI

CHAPTER TWO 35

Class VI (extreme and exploratory):

hypothetical river 100 feet wide, 10 feet

These rapids have rarely been attempted

deep in the middle, and of symmetrical V–

and exemplify the extremes of difficulty,

streamed cross–section, whose water was

unpredictability, and danger. The conse-

all moving at 5 mph, would be flowing at

quences of errors are very severe and res-

100 (width) x 10 (depth) × 5 (mph) × 1.5

cue may be impossible. These rapids are

(conversion to fps) × 0.5 (correction fac-

for teams of experts at favorable water

tor for streambed volume assuming a V–

levels. After a Class VI rapid has been run

shape) = 3,750 cubic feet per second. If

successfully several times, its rating may

we make the scenario more realistic, we’ll

be changed to Class V.

look at the river and see that the main cur-

In river descriptions, steepness is listed

rent is going 5 mph, but since water near

in feet of drop per mile of stream, both

the banks and near the bottom, head up in

average (from top to bottom) and maxi-

eddies and by rocks, is going slower than

mum (generally reflecting the length of

5 mph, we’ll introduce a correction fac-

the stream required to drop one 100–foot

tor of 2/3 for converting from maximum

contour line). Since the smallest contour

observed surface velocity to average water

interval on most available maps is 100

velocity, and drop the estimated flow to

feet, a 90–foot waterfall will not be visible

3,750 × 0.66 = 2,500 cfs. Thus width

on the map or be fully reflected in gradient

(feet) × depth (feet) × speed (mph) / 2

information. Also not reflected is whether

= approximate flow in cfs. Hydrologists

the steepness s continuous or pool–drop,

actually measure this flow rather than

and you’ll have to read further to find that

estimate and then create charts (called

out. Nevertheless, examine gradient infor-

stage–discharge rating curves) which

mation carefully, and if you plan a new run,

relate flow or “discharge” in the stream

measure the gradient in advance to save

to the most easily measured variable,

yourself some surprises. Attention to gra-

which is river surface height.

dient and flow is key to understanding the potential difficulty of rivers and streams.

To find the flow of some rivers, you can look it up at the Anchorage National

River or stream flows are measured in

Weather Service–Alaskan River Fore-

cubic feet of water flowing past a fixed

cast Center. However, not all Alaskan

point, through a cross–section of the riv-

streams have a stage–measuring device

erbed, per second (cfs). Flows are very

(gage) placed in them. Since the major-

important to the character and feasibility

ity of Alaskan rivers are ungaged, and

of runs. In order to measure flow directly,

because rating curves are not available

the hydrologist must measure the depth

for many rivers that are gaged, river

of the stream at closely spaced intervals

runners need to evaluate rivers on their

all the way across it and then measure

own. They need to figure out what the

the velocity of the water at every depth,

flow or level of what your desired river

from bottom to surface, for each inter-

is running at. If you figure wrong, the

val. In a simple situation, the river will

run could be more than one class of

be going fastest at the surface and away

difficulty harder than expected and

from the banks. Since 1 mph is almost 1.5

could even be fatal.

fps (5,280 feet per mile/3,600 seconds), a

36 NORTHERN FLOW

Moving from hydrologic theory to practice, it’s fairly easy to tell whether a par-

with theirs. Experiencing all varieties and levels of rivers is helpful.

ticular river or creek is “high,” “medium,”

Flows vary with season and weather,

or “low.” Take a look at the river level in

and this is incongruent with rivers in the

comparison to the bushes and gravel bars.

lower 48. Snowmelt runoff is generally

If it’s in the trees, it’s a flood stage. If it’s

mid–May to mid–June, and non–glacial

in the bushes, it’s “very high.” If it’s to

(clear water) streams will have an early

the bushes, it’s “high.” If it’s not to the

peak at this time. Streams with glacial

bushes and only moderate gravel (or sand

sources behave differently and peak in late

or mud) is exposed, it’s “medium.” With

July and early August during the warmest

lots of gravel, sand, or mud, it’s “low,” and

part of the summer. Periods of hot, sunny

“very low” is that carried to an extreme.

weather will make the glacial streams

If you are able to estimate the flow in cfs,

come up as radiant heat melts ice. Many

you’ll get much more information than just

glacial streams have a major variation in

“low” or “high.”

flow with time of day, dropping at night

The best way for a boater to estimate

and coming up during the day. There can

flow is to simply compare it with known

be a factor–of–two difference between

flows he’s experienced in other, similar

morning and evening flows in rivers with

streams. That global comparison requires

single glacial sources. If true floods occur,

making an effort to ask hydrologists what

though, they are most likely to be in Sep-

the flow was or is when you run something

tember, because periods of very heavy rain

they do have data for and then later pre-

are much more likely than in the early

paring you own estimate based on a run

summer.

and calling them to see if yours agrees

CHAPTER TWO 37

River Management

It is imperative that we don’t disturb

Wilderness in Alaska must accommodate

archaeological sites or remove artifacts

many different users. The Alaska National

from their natural setting. Taking an

Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980

object from its place of repose destroys

(ANILCA) allowed for continuance of

much of its value to everyone in helping to

traditional uses by traditional means. In

put together the story of Alaska’s culture

addition, airplanes are allowed to land in

and historical history.

many parks and refuges–on land or water–

Natural features deserve the same

making practically the entire state acces-

respect. It’s illegal in most national parks

sible. There are more planes per capita in

and wildlife refuges to take flowers, rocks,

Alaska than in any other state. This makes

fossils, animal parts, or other natural fea-

it easy for people to get to wilderness but

tures, except plants for eating or dead

also makes wilderness more vulnerable to

and down firewood. Why the concern

abuse or overuse. Helicopters are prohib-

over these resources? Every rock, flower,

ited in wilderness.

and fossil is an integral part of the natu-

Motorized boats are not prohibited

ral environment that we come to witness.

on most rivers, including those in wilder-

More importantly, these resources have a

ness areas. So you may find your “pristine

use in the total ecological web. Caribou

wilderness experience” disrupted by the

and moose antlers are eaten for their cal-

appearance of the powerboat. Both you

cium by porcupines, voles, and other small

and the powerboat may have the right to

animals. Animal parts break down over

be there. On State Recreational Rivers,

time and become nutrients for the soil.

some sections are designated for motorless

Wildflowers provide nectar for bees.

recreation on certain days and for power-

Park Rangers at Gates of the Arctic

boats on other days. Mining operations

National Park showed they were serious

occur along some rivers. Most of these

about caring for their area in an incident

involve placer mining, a process that tears

from the early 1908s. They confiscated

up the land.

many caribou and moose antlers from

When you float down an Alaskan river,

recreationists returning to Bettles from

you may be following travel and trade

the park. After a huge pile of antlers

routes used by wildlife and Native people

gathered in the town, one ranger loaded

for thousands of years. You may find well–

up a plane with antlers, flew over the

worn animal trails along river and streams.

park, and randomly distributes them

Signs of human travel and occupation also

back to the land.

exist. Ancient rock cairns and fences, a

Private lands exist along most riv-

spear point or scraper, depressions or rings

ers. Even though a river may traverse a

of stones where once stood a dwelling, the

national park, refuge, or other protected

crumbling walls of a trapper’s cabin–all

lands, or be protected as a national

remind us that the wilderness we experi-

wild and scenic river, the lands are not

ence has felt the footsteps of others. It

all publicly owned. Waterways and the

is illegal to excavate, remove, or destroy

lands up to the high water mark are

artifacts, or to disturb archaeological or

considered public property in Alaska.

historical sites on federal or state lands.

38 NORTHERN FLOW

CHAPTER TWO 39

40 NORTHERN FLOW

Camping on gravel bars in any river corridor is acceptable. Make yourself aware of the location of private lands within a river corridor you plan to travel. Federal and state land management agencies have maps showing private lands. Native corporations own lands surrounding villages, and permits may be required to use these areas. Contact the corporations whose lands you will be traveling through.

While traveling the rivers of Alaska, you may run across empty hunting and trapping cabins and tent camps, structures essential to the subsistence livelihood of rural Alaskans. Some of the structures may appear abandoned but most likely are not. They are used seasonally and their contents are vital to the people who own them. The general rule is to trespass only in an emergency.

When you enter a rural village, your presence has a strong impact. Respecting people’s privacy means not taking photographs or residents unless you have their permission. You may find the pace of life in village Alaska markedly different form where you live, and you may not be able to obtain the goods and services you desire. If you hope to camp at a village that is on private land, officials of the Native village corporation or other village residents can fill you in on local rules. Many villages are “dry,” banning sale or possession of alcohol. It is best not to bring any alcohol into the villages when visiting.

The traditional lifeways of the Aleut, Inupiat, Athapaskan, Yup’ik, Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian may not be easily discernible now that boats with outboard motors have replaced Native kayaks and the roar of snowmachines has largely drowned out

CHAPTER TWO 41

42 NORTHERN FLOW

the bark of dog teams. But Native tradi-

Passage of the Alaska National Inter-

tions are alive. People may wear John

est Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) in

Deere caps and drive pickups, but they still

1980 was an action of immense impor-

have their own languages, their own cus-

tance for the cause of American conser-

toms, and deep awareness of the natural

vation. “Never before have we seized the

world and environment.

opportunity to preserve so much of Amer-

In the villages, people rely on a sub-

ica’s national and cultural heritage on so

sistence–based economy and way of life.

grand a scale,” remarked President Jimmy

Hunting, gathering, and food preparation

Carter as he signed the act. While the act

are an integral part of the culture, with

has its flaws, it did set aside 104.3 million

families and households sharing the har-

acres as national parks, wildlife refuges,

vest. Going upriver to hunt caribou is just

wilderness areas, and other conservation

as important today, though hunters travel

units. The act also gave protection under

in a skiff with an outboard motor, as it

the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act

was when boats were made of walrus or

to 25 Alaska rivers: 13 within national

seal hide and sails were made of marine

parks, 2 within Bureau of Land Manage-

mammal intestines. As much as traditional

ment conservation areas, 6 in national

foods satisfy nutritional needs, they also

wildlife refuges, and 4 on lands outside

meet psychological and spiritual needs.

of federally designated conservation units.

Listen to the sounds of singing and dancing

Implement of the ANILCA and the

coming from the community hall during a

Wild and Scenic Rivers Act has been slow,

potlatch or other special occasion. Observe

with neither federal nor state governments

the joy, ritual, and significance of the first

giving them adequate support. Alaska’s

harvest of fall, when caribou are brought

wild rivers continue to be threatened by

into the village and shared with everyone.

activities such as mining, hydroelectric

The descendants of Alaska’s first peoples

projects, and private holdings within con-

are using the land in a tradition carried on

servation lands. Recreationists also can

for millennia.

degrade river areas. On the Kenai and

Development has hit many once remote

Russia rivers, large numbers of people

wilderness areas. Some of Alaska’s riv-

fishing have trampled bank vegetation

ers now share a corridor with the Trans–

and brought on erosion. On the Arctic

Alaska Pipeline or are overshadowed by

Slope, large commercial river trips have

the North Slope oilfield complex. Others

damaged fragile tundra. River manage-

have been dammed, diverted, and dirtied

ment in Alaska is generally improving,

in search of placer gold. One river carries

however, thanks in great measure to the

toxins leaching from the world’s second–

federal Clean Water Act (1972). Fed-

largest lead–zinc deposit. Fortunately for

eral agencies are now required to moni-

Alaska’s free–flowing rivers, many devel-

tor rivers closely to protect biological,

opment proposals have been delayed or

physical, archaeological, aesthetic,

stopped, either because of the harm they

historic, and scenic features.

would do to the environment or simply because they would cost too much.

Rivers need our support, and there are hundreds of other rivers in Alaska that also deserve designation.

CHAPTER TWO 43

CHAPTER 3 ALASKAN RIVERS

There are six distinct river drainage

Alaskan rivers are either glacial or non-

regions that define Alaska: the Arctic

glacial. Most glacial rivers are in South-

Slope,

Southwest,

east and Southcentral Alaska. They are

Southcentral, and Southeast. Within these

characterized by a high sediment load, giv-

are 12 major river systems: the Colville,

ing the water a milky a brown, gray or blue

Noatak, Kobuk, Yukon, Tanana, Koyukuk,

color. Glacial valleys are U–shaped and

Kuskokwim, Copper, Susitna, Stikine, Taku,

generally very scenic, with glaciers and

and Alsek. The rivers, drawing on vein–like

mountains and sometimes forests. Stream

tributaries that spread out over the land,

channels are often wide and braided,

eventually run to the sea.

composed of sorted gravel and boulders

Northwest, Yukon,

The total runoff of drainage depends on

in all sizes. Glacial river water is always

precipitation, temperature, elevation, exis-

cold and silty because its source is active

tence of permafrost, vegetation, and size of

glaciers.

the drainage, and any of these factors can

In Southeast Alaska, glacial rivers

cause wide fluctuation in daily and seasonal

commonly carry entire trees to gravel

river flows. Many rivers experience severe

bars and sharp turns, where they tangle

flooding behind ice dams at spring breakup.

together in huge piles. The water level

Weakened by warming temperatures and

of glacial rivers fluctuates dramati-

water beginning to flow beneath the ice,

cally depending on the temperature.

huge slabs of ice creak, groan, pop, and

On a sunny day, glacial melt can raise

break apart, thundering with wild abandon

the water level as much as three feet

as they scrape together, moving down the

transforming a moderate Class II river

river. Paddling a river during the middle

into a raging Class III torrent. This is

of the summer, you may be shocked to see

more often true of Interior glacial riv-

high–water marks from spring breakup

ers than of the short glacial streams

which are as much as 12 feet higher than

of Southeast Alaska, where the Gulf

the water you’re in. Immediately after

of Alaska and its maritime climate

breakup, many rivers are unrunnable.

tend to reduce daily fluctuation.

ARCTIC SLOPE

spectacled eider and Steller’s eider. Two

Nonglacial rivers are typical of Northwest

distinct caribou herds make use of the

Alaska, the Arctic Slope, and parts of

Arctic Slope: the 500,000–member West-

Interior Alaska, though many waterways

ern Arctic caribou herd and the resident

in other regions are also nonglacial. These

45,000–memer Teshekpuk caribou herd.

rivers are characterized by a clear blue or

Treeless, except for a few river valleys

brownish color and a meandering nature.

where balsam poplar has found a niche in

If their origins are mountain streams, the

protected microclimates, the land is under-

water is clear waters originating in marshy

lain by a continuous permafrost barrier.

lowlands and musket swamps display

Here, just a few inches of summer–thawed

brown–tinted water. With rainfall, non-

soil and plants cover a layer of perma-

glacial rivers quickly become muddy and

nently frozen ground. The depth of the per-

turbid. The current is often swift, and in

mafrost layer may be only a few feet to as

forested areas sweepers are common. The

much as nearly a mile. Summers are short,

banks of these rivers are more stable than

with continuous daylight.

along glacial streams. The water is not as

The climate is cold and dry. The Arc-

cold as in glacial rivers, but it is not warm.

tic Slope is a desert, receiving just seven

From watersheds amid the Brooks

inches or precipitation annually. Less than

Range, rivers and streams flow northward

half of this occurs as summer rainfall–but

through rugged peaks and treeless rolling

when a big storm hits during a river trip,

foothills, across the tundra wetlands of the

you may swear it has rained most of those

arctic coastal plain, and into the Chukchi

inches at one time. Rivers rise dramati-

or Beaufort seas. The Colville River domi-

cally before your eyes. Because of the

nates the region, its watershed draining

permafrost, the land does not soak up

24,000 square miles. Breakup on rivers

much of the rain as it falls. Quickly, then,

is in June, and reach their peak flows at

the water moves down every depression,

this time, souring the banks by pushing ice

every creeklet, from every height, to the

down braided streams that flow through

main arteries heading toward the coast.

U–shaped glacial valleys.

The mountains end abruptly at the tolling arctic foothills, punctuated by arcuate (curved) ridges. On the arctic coastal plan, countless lakes thaw, providing vital habitat for migrating shorebirds and waterfowl.

The largest of these is Teshekpuk Lake.

The lake and surrounding area support the highest density of nesting waterfowl and shorebirds on the Arctic Slope. Up to 60,000 geese (including lesser snow geese, Canada, and white–fronted geese, and up to 20 percent of the entire Pacific black brant population) molt in the area. This is the primary arctic habitat for threatened

46 NORTHERN FLOW

The arctic slope river drainage consists of the Colville River, Ivishak River, and the Killik River.

THE ARCTIC SLOPE RIVER BASIN

3 1

2

1 Colville River 2 Killik River 3 Ivishak River

CHAPTER THREE 47

NORTHWEST ALASKA The northwest river basin encompasses the Seward Peninsula, with its small hills and marshy valleys, and the great deltas of the Noatak and Kobuk rivers from the nucleus of this regions, along with the uplands, foothills, and headwater Brooks Range mountains (the Delong, Baird, and Endicott mountains). The Noatak and Kobuk rivers drain almost 25,000 square miles. Sparse spruce forests occupy river bottomlands, and tundra vegetation covers hillsides and rolling plains throughout the region. Shallow lakes and tundra marshes are underlain by a layer of permafrost. On cutbank bluffs at bends on the rivers, it is sometimes possible to observe permafrost ice wedges on the bank. The Unalakleet and Koyuk rivers drain southwest on the Seward Peninsula to enter Norton Sound.

Most rivers in Northwest Alaska are swift and clear, formed from runoff from the western Brooks Range and coastal mountains. The Kobuk, Noatak, and Koyukuk are three of Alaska’s largest clearwater rivers and provide ample passage for both humans and wildlife. Rivers emptying into Kotzebue Sound are known for their superlative arctic char and sheefish. The 500,000–member Western Arctic caribou herd roams the region.

The climate is transitional, so weather varies throughout the region. Annual precipitation averages 8 inches, except on the Seward Peninsula, where it averages 18 inches. Roughly half of this falls as rain in the summer months. Breakup on the rivers occurs in late May; by late October, streams are frozen again.

The northwest river drainage consists of the Ambler, Aniuk, Kobuk, Noatak, Selawik, Squirrel, and the Unalakleet.

48 NORTHERN FLOW

NORTHWEST ALASKA RIVER BASIN

7

4

3 5

6

8

1

2

1 Koyuk River 2 Unalakleet River 3 Squirrel River 4 Noatak River 5 Kobuk River 6 Selawik River 7 Ambler River 8 Aniuk River

CHAPTER THREE 49

YUKON REGION

The Yukon River valleys and all of its

Bounded by the Alaska and Brooks ranges

tributary rivers and valleys in Canada and

and the Canadian border, the Yukon Region

Alaska are the homelands of the Athabas-

encompasses Alaska’s vast heartland, the

can people of many tribes. Called Dene

Interior. The Yukon River and its tributar-

in the lower States and Canada, they call

ies, draining 35 percent of Alaska’s land-

themselves Dinee in Alaska and in parts

mass, from the fifth largest river system

of Canada. Their traditional language is

in North America. Rising in Canada, the

handed down from an ancient time and it

Yukon flows north–northwest to the US

is shared with some regional variations in

border, then arcs across Alaska, its “cof-

nuance and syntax by the Navaho, Apache,

fee with too much cream”–colored water

and many other North American Indian

finally emptying into the Bering Sea 1,400

tribes. One long held archaeology para-

miles later.

digm holds that all of the native people of

The region is especially valuable for the

North America migrated across the Bering

extensive river flats in the Lower Yukon

Land Bridge (Beringia) during the Ice Age.

region, which have formed over thou-

If that is true then perhaps the Athabascan

sands of years, leaving behind oxbows,

might be the oldest surviving culture of the

sloughs, marshes, and a myriad of lakes

world.

and marshlands teeming with wildlife.

The climate is continental, so summers

Spring–fed aquifers in the mountains pro-

are hot and dry and winters are very cold.

vide flow–year round and support coho,

The city Fort Yukon has recorded a high

king, and chum salmon populations. Fish

temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

use major rivers, such as the Yukon and

Arctic Village has reported temperatures

Tanana as highways to their spawning

as low as minus 78 degrees Fahrenheit.

grounds and summer feeding areas. For-

The average annual precipitation is 10 to

ests of spruce, aspen, and paper birch are

12 inches in the uplands and 6 inches on

extensive, and forest fires are common in

the Yukon Flats.

the summer–some burning underground

Breakup on rivers begins in late April

for years, fueled by centuries–old layers

or May, with peak flow in May; freezeup

of peat. The terrain is varied, with rolling

occurs in October. Flooding of the low-

foothills, peaks, plateaus, valleys, and low-

lands is an annual occurrence, and vil-

lands. In the western and northern edges

lages along the Yukon and other rivers

of the region lie expanses of tundra. Riv-

often suffer major damage as a result of

ers in this region are generally nonglacial,

ice damning the rivers at breakup, which

relatively slow moving, and meandering.

occurs in the springtime.

There is ice underground along rivers that are created from permafrost.

The Yukon region river drainage consists of the Alatna River, Anvik River,

The Yukon and its tributaries still offer

Beaver Creek, Birch Creek, Black, Char-

a glimpse of traditional Alaska, where

ley, Chatanika, Chena, Delta Clearwater,

scattered Native villages, log cabins, and

Delta, Fortymile, John, Middle Fork

fish wheels dot a huge wilderness land-

Koyukuk, North Fork Koyukuk, Meloz-

scape with few people.

itna, Nenana, Nowitna, Porcupine, Sheenjek, Tinayguk, and Wild Rivers.

50 NORTHERN FLOW

THE YUKON RIVER BASIN

12

14 13 1

1

5 4

7

6

8

11 9

2

10

1 Alatna River 2 Anvik River 3 Beaver Creek 4 Birch Creek 5 Black River 6 Charley River 7 Chatanika River 8 Chena River 9 Delta Clearwater River 10 Delta River 11 Fortymile River 12 John River 13 Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River 14 North Fork Koyukuk River

CHAPTER THREE 51

SOUTHWEST ALASKA

This region is world famous for its

The Southwest region centers on the Kus-

fly–fishing opportunities. Dozens of sport-

kokwim River. Draining 43,600 miles, it

fishing lodges dot the landscape. With no

flows through a wide, flat valley forested

roads, air taxis do a brisk business, hauling

in spruce and hardwoods, while low, rolling

people from hub towns served by regular

hills rising abruptly throughout its course.

air service to rivers and streams.

Many tributaries including the Stony,

The climate varies in this region. The

Holitna, South Fork, and Swift Fork, to

coastal areas are maritime–influenced,

name a few, flow northward from headwa-

while in the interior portion, the climate

ters in the Aleutian and Alaska Range the

is continental. In general, the weather is

foothills of the Kuskikwim Mountains and

unpredictable, with fog and rain common

to a confluence with the main stem of the

and violent winds with a possibility. Days

Kuskokwim. Heading in mountain glaciers,

on end of cloudy weather are not uncom-

rivers coming off the Alaska Range are

mon. Annual precipitation varies from 12

long, silty, and braided, while rivers rising

to 24 inches. Break–up on rivers occurs

in the Kuskokwim Mountains are fast and

in early May, with peak runoff in June.

meandering.

The rivers freeze up again in November.

The other major river systems in this

Discontinuous permafrost exists in small

region are the Kvichk and Nushagak.

pockets south of the Kuskokwim River and

Together they drain 21,8000 square

continues north of the Kuskokwim.

miles. These rivers and their tributaries

The southwest river drainage consists of

originate in two great mountain systems

the Alagnak and Nonbianuk Rivers, Amer-

north and west of Bristol Bay. The jagged

ican Creek, Adnreafsky and East Fort

Ahklun Mountains, rising between 2,000

Andreafsky,

and 5,000 feet, together with the Aleu-

Copper, Goodnews, Holitna, Kanektok,

tian Range and the Nushagak–Big River

Kantishna Rivers, Moose Creek, Kisaralik,

Hills, hive birth to shallow clear streams

Kuskikwim, South Fork Kuskikwim, Mul-

that drain mostly through incised bedrock

chatna, Newhalen, Nushagak, Nuyakuk,

gorges. The glacially scoured Wood River–

Savonoski, Stony, Tlikakila, Togiak Riv-

Tikchik Lakes district is a showpiece of

ers, and Wood River Lakes System.

the Bristol Bay–Southwest region. Lakes Becharof, Naknek, Ugashik, Iliamna, and Nonvianuk, deep bedrock basins and all, and the rich rivers and streams that issues from them, form a nursery for the largest salmon, trout, and arctic char populations in the world. A haven for wildlife, whose habitat is preserved in several national wildlife refuges, national parks, and state preserves, Southwest Alaska is home to behemoth brown bears, fiery volcanoes, scenic mountains, and the yet–vibrant Yupik Eskimo culture.

52 NORTHERN FLOW

Aniakchak,

Chilikadrotna,

SOUTHWEST ALASKA RIVER BASIN

10

3

8

5 9 7 6 1 2

4

1 Alagnak River & Nonvianuk River 2 American Creek 3 Andreafshy River 4 Aniakchak River 5 Chilikadrotna River 6 Copper River 7 Goodnews River 8 Holitna River 9 Kanektok River 10 Kantishna River and Moose Creek

CHAPTER THREE 53

SOUTHCENTRAL ALASKA RIVER BASIN

5

8

6

1

3

1 Alexander Creek 2 Bremner River 3 Cambell Creek 4 Chitina River 5 Chulitna River 6 Copper River 7 Eagle River 8 Gulkana River

54 NORTHERN FLOW

7

2

4

SOUTHCENTRAL ALASKA

Breakup in the Southcentral region

The Copper and Susitna rivers from the

usually occurs in late April, with peak flow

heart of the Southcentral region, while

in late April and early May. Freeze–up

subregions of Kodiak Island and the Gulf

begins in mid–October. The climate in much

of Alaska form the limbs. The Copper

of the region is maritime, with continental

drains 24,400 square miles in Alaska and

influences in the inland mountain areas.

Canada, and the Susitna drains 20,000

The Japanese Current and the mountains

square miles. Rugged mountainous terrain

both create many local climatic varia-

characterizes much of the region, and most

tions. Annual precipitation ranges from

of the rivers originate from the glaciers.

about 15 inches to more than 79 inches,

Dominating the watershed are Alaska’s

with about half this occurring as rain dur-

greatest mountain ranges: the Alaska

ing the ice–free season. With its benign

Range, with Mount McKinley, tallest

weather, diversity, and greatest number of

mountain in North America the Wrangell

roads and access, the Southcentral region

Mountains; and the Aleutian Range, with

is home to the majority of Alaskans.

the great volcanic peaks of the Alaska

The southcentral river basin consists of

Peninsula. Most of the rivers coursing to

Alexander Creek, Bremner River, Camp-

Cook Inlet and the Gulf of Alaska are

bell Creek, Chitina, Chulitnam, Copper

swift, silty, braided glacial streams flowing

(Wrangell Mountains), Eagle, Gulkana

from the mountains. The exceptions to this

(Main, Middle, and West Fork), Kenai,

terrain are the lower Susitna Valley, the

Kennicott and Nizina, Knik Rivers, Kroto

lowlands bordering Cook Inlet, the Cop-

Creek, Moose Creek, Deshka River, Lake

per River plateau, and intermittent areas

Creek, Little Nelchina, Nelchina, Tazlina,

along the coast, where clear rivers spring

Little Susitna, Matanuska, Nabesn Rivers,

forth and meander across wetlands. In

Portage Creek, Upper and Lower Susitna

the Kodiak–Shelikof coast subregion, riv-

Rivers, Swanson River Canoe System,

ers and streams are short and steep, with

Talachulitna Creek and River, Talkeetna,

fairly small drainages and steep gradients.

Tokositna, Tyone Rivers, Willow Creek and Little Willow Creek.

CHAPTER THREE 55

SOUTHEAST ALASKA

Just four mainland rivers have carved

The southeast region is dominated by three

their way though the coastal mountains to

major river systems originating in Canada:

the sea–the Stikine, Unuk, Tatshenshini–

the Taku, draining 6,700 square miles;

Alsek, and Taku. These river valleys have

the Alsek, draining 9,500 square miles;

proven to be vital transportation routes for

and the Stikine, draining 19,700 square

flora, wildlife, fish, and humans. The rivers

miles. These systems are new in terms of

are with anadromous fish populations.

geologic time. Only in the last thousand

Lying along the Gulf of Alaska, this

years or so have many of the rivers in this

region has a maritime climate, with many

region emerged from beneath great sheets

storms. The weather is typically cloudy,

of ice from the Wisconsin Ice Age. Large

with moderate temperatures and rain.

ice fields and glaciers still dominate the

Average annual precipitation is more than

mountainous mainland, while the islands

100 inches, and in some places it is more

of Southeast Alaska are now ice free all

than 200 inches much of that falls as rain.

year round.

Rivers generally remain ice–free all year,

The coast typically is rugged, with lit-

with heaviest flow in the summer. These

tle flatland except where broad glaciers

cool, moist conditions produce lush, jun-

spreading out from the base of the moun-

glelike vegetation. Coastal rainforests of

tains (known as piedmont glaciers) have

Sitka spruce and western hemlock, inter-

receded, leaving huge outwash moraines

spersed with muskeg, dominate the land

that have since produced forests, such as

below timberline.

on the Yakutat Forelands or at Gustavus at

The southeast river basin consists of the

the mouth of Glacier Bay. From the coast

Chilkat, Mendenhall, Situk, Stikine, and

moving inland, elevations increase dramati-

Tatshenshini–Alsek Rivers.

cally to the summits of some of the highest mountains in North America. No permafrost exists in this region; instead, extensive glaciers clothe the peaks and valleys.

56 NORTHERN FLOW

SOUTHEAST ALASKA RIVER BASIN

1 2 3

4

5

1 Situk River 2 Tatshenshini–Alsek River 3 Chilkat River 4 Mendenhall River 5 Stikine

CHAPTER THREE 57

CHAPTER 4 THE BROOKS RANGE

The Brooks Range is one of the wildest ranges in North America, stretching from the west to the east across northern Alaska and into the Yukon Territory of Canada. It crosses a distance of 700 miles with mountains over 9,000 feet.

Being over 126 million years old, there is a plethora of historical content and stories embedded in the geology of the Brooks Range. Although one of the most remote wildernesses in Alaska, the Brooks Range offers accessibility to those who are experienced to travel by foot or boat, making it a playground for those willing to travel the distance. The Brooks Range is also the major climatic divide that separates the Alaskan Interior from the Arctic.

The Range is a collection of icy mountain peaks that form the northern front of a huge central upland area of low mountains, hills and river valleys, all dissected by the Yukon River and its tributaries. This range is the northernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains in northern Alaska, US Named for the geologist Alfred H. Brooks, the entire range is within the Arctic Circle.

It is separated from the Alaska Range (south) by the plains and tablelands of the Yukon and Porcupine river systems.

The Brooks Range extends about 600

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, encom-

miles (1,000 km) in an east–west direc-

passing the eastern part of the range,

tion across Alaska from the US border

protects one of the world’s most pristine

with Canada’s Yukon territory to the

and ecologically diversified high–latitude

Chukchi Sea, and it reaches widths of up

wilderness areas; it is home to some 200

to 200 miles (300 km). The British and

species of birds, more than 35 different

Richardson mountains, wholly situated in

kinds of land mammals (notably polar

Canada and a 250–mile (400–km) north-

bears, caribou, musk oxen, wolverines,

ern and western extension of the Canadian

and wolves), and several species of marine

Rocky Mountains, are sometimes consid-

mammals and fish. However, the preserve

ered part of the Brooks Range.

also is believed to have large petroleum

The Brooks is the world’s highest moun-

deposits in the North Slope area and has

tain range within the Arctic Circle. Its

been the subject of controversy between

peaks average 3,000 to 4,000 feet (900

environmentalists and proponents of oil

to 1,200 metres) in the west and about

drilling. Gates of the Arctic National

5,000 to 6,000 feet (1,500 to 1,800

Park and Preserve, in the rugged Endi-

metres) in the centre and east. The highest

cott Mountains; Kobuk Valley National

points, reaching between about 8,500 and

Park, in the Baird Mountains; and Noatak

9,000 feet (2,590 and 2,740 metres) are

National Preserve, which occupies a large

found near the Canadian border. The range

territory north of the two parks, also lie

is a watershed between the Yukon River

along the range.

drainage (south) and that of the Arctic

Each year, the Porcupine caribou herd

Ocean (north). Anaktuvuk Pass (2,200

travels from wintering grounds in Cana-

feet), near its centre, is the main means of

da’s Yukon Territory to calving grounds on

access from the Yukon lowlands.

Alaska’s slim coastal plain between the

The Prudhoe Bay region, on the coastal

Brooks Range and the Arctic Ocean. In

plain (North Slope) at the northern base

June, thousands of animals stream down

of the range, has vast reserves of oil. To

the Kongakut valley in the Arctic Ref-

the west of it is the National Petroleum

uge. The tundra is covered with wildflow-

Reserve of Alaska, which covers some

ers, the air alive with bird song, the light

36,700 square miles (95,000 square km)

never–ending. Wolves, Dall sheep, grizzly

of plains and mountains in northern and

bears, foxes, and the occasional muskox

western Alaska. The Trans–Alaska Pipeline

or wolverine are often spotted. More than

crosses the range at Atigun Pass en route

seventy bird species summer in Kongakut

from Prudhoe to the Valdez terminal in

country; including golden and bald eagle,

southern Alaska.

peregrine

falcon,

Lapland

longspur,

golden plover, and Pacific, Arctic and red–throated loon.

60 NORTHERN FLOW

ALASKA REGIONAL MAP

The Brooks Range

The Arctic Cirlce

CHAPTER FOUR 61

On June and early July Kongakut River

The Alaska Native villages of Anaktu-

trips, the summer migration of the Porcu-

vuk and Arctic Village, as well as the very

pine caribou herd is visible n the 24 hour

small communities of Coldfoot, Wiseman,

daylight of Alaskan summers resulting in

Bettles, and Chandalar Lake are the only

the rapid growth of bird, animal, and plant

settlements in the 700–mile Brooks Range.

life in the arctic summer.

In the far west, near the Wulik River in the

On July trips you may catch the returning herd, as they head across a verdant

De Long Mountains is the Red Dog mine, largest zinc mine in the world.

green landscape to the south side of the

The range was named by the United

Brooks Range. August trips take in the

States Board on Geographic Names in

glory of autumn, as the land turns gold

1925 after Alfred Hulse Brooks, who was

and red, and wildlife often moves down

the chief USGS geologist for Alaska from

to the river to feed. We find grizzly bears

1903 to 1924. Various historical records

fattening on berries, moose in the willows,

also referred to the range as the Arctic

numerous Dall sheep, straggler caribou,

Mountains, Hooper Mountains, Meade

and the occasional wolf pack or wolverine

Mountains and Meade River Mountains.

roaming the valleys. Arctic char move up

The Canadian portion is still often referred

the river from the Arctic Ocean, and this is

to as the British Mountains. The Canadian

the best time of the year to cast a line in

British Mountains are part of Ivvavik

the Kongakut’s deep, clear pools. The area

National Park.

offers superb day hiking. River days alter-

Prudhoe Bay, at the northern base of

nate with full layover days to explore side

the range, has vast reserves of oil; the

canyons and ridges under endless daylight.

National Petroleum Reserve Alaska covers

The range is mostly uninhabited, but

some 23.5 million acres (9.5 million hect-

the Dalton Highway and the Trans–Alaska

ares). The Trans–Alaska Pipeline crosses

Pipeline System run through the Atigun

the range at Atigun Pass en route to the

Pass (1,415 m, 4,643 ft) on their way

Valdez terminal in southern Alaska. Arctic

to the North Slope and the oil fields at

National Wildlife Refuge,

Prudhoe Bay.

62 NORTHERN FLOW

in the eastern part of the range, is considered by many to be one of the world’s ecological treasures; it is home to some 160 species of birds, more than 35 different kinds of land mammals (e.g., caribou, musk oxen, wolverines, and wolves), and several species of marine mammals and fish. This refuge is the subject of controversy between environmentalists and proponents of oil drilling. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, in the rugged Endicott Mountains, and the adjoining Noatak National Preserve also lie along the range. See also Alaskan mountains.

The scenery in the Brooks Range is jaw dropping. The floors of its labyrinthine canyons are filled with rivers, lakes and meadows. The divides between the canyons run the gambit from sheer stone, walls and smooth, undulating ridges. 95% of the range’s area is accessible only via airplane. The Dalton Highway the only road access into the Brooks Range, and only a narrow corridor is within hiking distance of the road.

Traveling by river is a unique way to see a vast selection of a specific ecosystem because one travels through the water corridor and epicenter of life.

CHAPTER FOUR 63

Paddle rafts, canoes or kayaks are used for river travel in the Brooks Range.

Brooks Range rivers tend not to have a whole lot of whitewater. The emphasis is more on the wilderness than on high– adrenaline rapids. River trips often begin and end with a short portage.

The entire Brooks Range is the main divide drainage northward into the Arctic Ocean, and drainage west and south into the Yukon, Kobuk and Noatak rivers.

One of the main attractions of the central and eastern Brooks Range are the large, glacial moraine–dammed lakes, providing access by floatplane to many of the remote areas of the mountains. Late in the summer, Brooks Range rivers tend to run out of enough water for travel, so precautions have to be made if traveling during those times to avoid getting stuck.

The western Brooks Range is the most remote and untraveled part of Alaska.

Unknown of the unknown, home of the 400,000 strong Western Arctic Caribou herd. You almost certainly will not encounter other parties (or even footprints) on any of our western Brooks Range trips.

Expect encounters with wildlife.

64 NORTHERN FLOW

CHAPTER FOUR 65

CHAPTER 5 Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

The

Arctic

National Wildlife

Refuge

(ANWR), in the Northeast corner of Alaska flanking the eastern side of the Brooks Range, is a 19 million acre wilderness refuge stretching from the Beaufort Sea nearly to the Yukon River. Its vastness and its abundant wildlife, coupled with dramatic scenery make it Alaska’s most celebrated wilderness. Designated as wilderness in 1960, ANWR encompasses arctic tundra, boreal forests, wild rivers, the Brooks Range mountains, the coastal plain and awe–inspiring Alaska glaciers.

Inupiat Eskimo and Athabascan Indians call this undisturbed Alaska wilderness home. Birds migrate from all over the world to breed in the refuge. Nearly 180 bird species call ANWR home at least part of the year. There are 45 mammal species living in ANWR including polar bears, grizzly bears, porcupine, caribou, musk ox, wolves, Dall sheep, and other wildlife.

It stings as wind–driven snow, soaks as gentle rain and penetrates as thick fog. It piles up in fields of ice, fed by springs and river overflows during winter. In spring, its sparkling drops gather to flood the river corridors, washing gravel bars and nourishing plants.

Finally it reaches the coast, enriching

Although the Service has federal water

the ocean with its load of minerals. All

rights, agency policy is to apply for state

along the way, it provides life–sustain-

water rights through state procedures

ing habitats for invertebrates and fish;

whenever possible. Between 1994 and

feeding, nesting and brood–rearing areas

1998, the Service filed water rights appli-

for birds; and refreshment for mammals,

cations with the State of Alaska for 140

including people.

lakes and 12 river segments on the Refuge

Water is the lifeblood of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Ensuring water

coastal plain. Action on those applications is still pending.

quality and quantity for fish and wildlife

This process does not negate the Ser-

resources is one of the purposes of the

vice’s federal water rights. In fact, it helps

Refuge. But water quantity is limited,

the State and others know just how much

especially on the coastal plain which is

water is needed to conserve Refuge fish

technically a very dry area. Less than

and wildlife resources. This is important

five inches of precipitation falls there

given the interest in other water–consum-

each year. In addition, compared to areas

ing activities on the coastal plain (ice

west, where surface water is plentiful, the

roads, oil drilling, municipal needs).

coastal plain has few lakes, and they are shallow and unevenly distributed.

While it awaits action on the applications and related needs, the Service contin-

Most of the water available in summer

ues to ensure that adequate water will be

comes from spring snowmelt. It pools on

available long–term to sustain the wonder-

the surface of the land, soaking the tundra.

fully diverse fish and wildlife resources of

The water doesn’t percolate through the

the Arctic Refuge.

soil, as it does in most places, due to permafrost, which underlies most of the area about a foot down.

The Fish and Wildlife Service has federal rights to water on the Arctic Refuge.

These federal reserved water rights were granted for Refuge purposes by laws.

68 NORTHERN FLOW

ALASKA REGIONAL MAP 2 The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge The Arctic Cirlce

CHAPTER FIVE 69

In December 1980, Congress enacted

Most refuge rivers are relatively swift

the Alaska National Interest Lands Con-

with boulder–strewn or braided gravel

servation Act (ANILCA). Section 602 of

beds, especially on the north side of the

ANILCA designated the Ivishak, upper

Brooks Range. Water quality is excellent,

Sheenjek, and Wind Rivers as Wild Riv-

although rivers are high and turbid dur-

ers. As a result, these rivers are part of the

ing breakup and after storms. Some rivers

nationwide Wild and Scenic River System.

carry glacial silt in summer.

The intent of this designation is to protect

Rivers must be evaluated and run

and enhance the natural and recreational

according to conditions at the time. River

values for which these rivers were desig-

ratings are subjective and can change with

nated while providing for public recreation

the stage of the river. Rivers are generally

and resource uses that do not adversely

open June through September, but the saf-

impact or degrade those values.

est water levels occur in July and early

The Wild River management category

August. Floaters and hikers should be

is similar to the “Minimal Management”

aware of above–average flows, which can

category. The Service seeks to protect

occur any time, especially after heavy rains

and maintain the physical and biological

upstream. Low water can occur in August,

qualities of the river drainages and adja-

but is usually not a serious problem. It is

cent Refuge lands, including water quality

generally possible to line through or por-

and quantity, and strives to maintain the

tage around the most difficult sections.

rivers’ superb recreational opportunities.

Breakup occurs during May and early

Recreational use is managed to maintain

June, depending on the location. Rivers are

the drainages’ resource and recreational

often at flood stage during this time with

values. Guiding and outfitting services and

ice floes and “aufeis” that make floating

related temporary support facilities are

hazardous and unpredictable.

permitted. Motorized access for traditional

Aufeis is a thick layer of ice formed

activities are allowed. Commercial timber

by successive freezing of stream over-

harvesting, oil and gas leasing, and hydro-

flows during winter. During breakup, riv-

power projects are not authorized. Oil and

ers carve vertical walled canyons through

gas studies may be permitted subject to

aufeis fields that can be more than a mile

site–specific compatibility determinations.

long. In early summer, it can be danger-

Developed recreational facilities, unless

ous to travel through these areas. By mid

necessary to limit resource damage, would

to late June, the channels are usually

not be permitted. Outside of the Refuge

open enough to allow passage. However,

and on private inholdings within the Ref-

aufeis fields can be dangerous any time

uge, the Service works with private land-

if river levels rise. Visitors should scout

owners to ensure management continuity.

all aufeis fields prior to floating to make

The Service also works with the Alaska

sure the river is not flowing under or

Department of Fish and Game to ensure

through tunnels in the ice.

that water quality and fish and wildlife habitats and populations are maintained and continue to flourish.

70 NORTHERN FLOW

CHAPTER FIVE 71

CHAPTER 6 GATES OF THE ARTIC NATIONAL PARK

All of the Alaska National Parks are spec-

primarily of portions of the Brooks Range

tacular, but Gates of the Arctic National

of mountains. It was first protected as a US

Park just might be the best. Clear, free–flow-

National Monument on December 1, 1978,

ing rivers, majestic peaks, endless vistas and

before becoming a national park and pre-

undisturbed wildlife are the standard fare in

serve two years later in 1980 upon passage

Gates of the Arctic. It is a hugely diverse and

of the Alaska National Interest Lands Con-

largely unknown 11 million acre park in the

servation Act. A large part of the park is pro-

Alaska Brooks Range, with endless opportu-

tected in the Gates of the Arctic Wilderness

nities for wilderness backcountry adventures.

which covers 7,167,192 acres (2,900,460

With less than 900 visitors per year, you are

ha). The wilderness area adjoins the Noatak

more likely to see an Arctic wolf or Alaskan

Wilderness Area and together they form the

caribou than other people.

largest contiguous wilderness in the US.

The Gates of the Arctic National Park and

The park’s name dates to 1929, when wil-

Preserve includes about 8.2 million acres of

derness activist Bob Marshall, exploring the

public land with approximately 7.2 million

North Fork of the Koyukuk River, encoun-

acres designated as wilderness. Lying within

tered a pair of mountains (Frigid Crags and

its boundaries are six Rivers, 2 National

Boreal Mountain), one on each side of the

Natural Landmarks and the Noatak Bio-

river. He christened this portal the “Gates

sphere Reserve. Contiguous with the 5.6

of the Arctic.”

million acres of designated wilderness in the

Ten small communities outside the

Noatak National Preserve to the west, this

park’s boundaries are classified as “resi-

rugged landscape is one of the world’s larg-

dent subsistence zones” and depend on

est nature preserves. No roads lead into the

park resources for food and livelihood.

park, and there are no trails or bridges.

They are Alatna, Allakaket, Ambler, Anak-

It is the northernmost national park in

tuvuk Pass, Bettles/Evansville, Hughes,

the US (the entirety of the park lies north

Kobuk, Nuiqsut, Shungnak, and Wiseman.

of the Arctic Circle) and the second largest at 13,238 miles (34,287 km²), about the same size as Switzerland. The park consists

ALASKA REGIONAL MAP 3 Gates of the Arctic National Park Arctic Circle

74 NORTHERN FLOW

There are no established roads, trails, visitor

facilities, or

campgrounds

Raptors inhabiting the park include

in

species of eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls,

the park. However, the Dalton Highway

three jaegers, and the northern shrike.

(Alaska State Highway 11) comes within

Because of their place high in the food

five miles (8 km) of the park’s eastern

chain, raptors are more susceptible to

boundary. The National Park Service

environmental disturbance and population

maintains a small visitor center in nearby

fluctuations. Arctic peregrine falcons, a

Coldfoot on the highway.

threatened species only recently removed

The geography contains the arête–

from the endangered list, nest in the area.

peaked Brooks Range and rolling valleys

If you look carefully, evidence of those

of wild tundra. Fauna include moose, bar-

who lived in or passed through the area

ren–ground grizzlies, Dall sheep, black

before can be found. Inupiaq and Athabas-

bears, wolves, and caribou.

can people, as well as their ancestors trav-

The park contains mountains such as

eled long distances throughout the central

the Arrigetch Peaks and Mount Igikpak.

Brooks Range surviving on plants and ani-

The park also features six Wild and Scenic

mals available during each season. Their

Rivers including the following:

descendants now live in nearby communi-

▶ Alatna River 83 miles (134 km)

ties and continue to hunt and gather in

▶ John River 52 miles (84 km)

the park and preserve.

▶ Kobuk River 110 miles (177 km) ▶ The North Fork of the Koyukuk River

Other visitors included early explorers, scientists, and gold miners. Their broken–

102 miles (164 km)

down cabins and artifacts still remain

▶ Part of the Noatak River

as reminders of the land’s rich history.

▶ Tinayguk River 44 miles (71 km)

The area was proclaimed a national

A total of 133 species of birds have been observed in the park and preserve over the past 25–30 years. Nearly half of those recorded are normally associated with aquatic habitats.

Raptors inhabiting the park include species of eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls, three jaegers, and the northern shrike.

Because of their place high in the food chain, raptors are more susceptible to environmental disturbance and population fluctuations. Arctic peregrine falcons, a threatened species only recently removed from the endangered list, nest in the area.

A total of 133 species of birds have been observed in the park and preserve over the past 25–30 years. Nearly half of those recorded are normally associated with aquatic habitats.

monument in 1978 and established as a national park and preserve on December 2, 1980. Today, mountain climbers, hunters, and wildlife enthusiasts have added to the park’s history.

Weather is unpredictable so expect snow or rain in any month. Fall and summer are your best bets. Although summer is short, the days are long and temperatures are typically mild. Keep in mind June and July are home to gnats and mosquitoes. Fall colors peak mid– August through September.

You can walk or fly into this national park though many prefer the latter.

From Fairbanks, scheduled flights run in Anaktuvuk Pass, Bettles, and Ambler. From these points, as well as Coldfoot, you can take an air taxi.

CHAPTER SIX 75

INDEX

A American Whitewater Affiliation Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

04 05–10

Aufeis 37

B Bears 15 Boats 25–36 Brooks Range

39–40

C Canoes 15–16 CFS

17, 37, 41

Classification 21 Communication

24, 27

D Dry suit

04

E

76 NORTHERN FLOW

Emergency

24, 27, 31

Equipment

34–37

F

S

Fairbanks

22, 25, 31, 33

Safety 14

Fishing

16

Sea kayaks

17

Flow

17

Self bailers

17–24

Flying 37

Snow, Brad

25

Forest Service

Subsistence 35

29, 32

G

T

Gates of the Arctic National Park Glacial

41–43

Tendonitis 21

21, 24, 27, 38

Tidewater 34 Training 25

H Hunting 15

V

Hydrologic theory

Villages

26

Hypothermia 16–17

12, 14

W

K

Watershed 31

Kayaks 21–22

Weather 16

M

Wild and Scenic Rivers Act

Motorized boats Mosquitoes

19–21 4, 7, 12, 17

31–33

Wilderness 25 Wildlife

06

Yukon 07–10

N Navigation 18

P Paddles 05 Paddle boat Paddler’s Organizations PFD

12 20–22 21, 34, 35, 37–38

Planes 24 Pipeline 37 Portage 27

R Rafts 12–13 River Risks

11

Rowing 24 Rules 10–11

INDEX 77

NORTHERN FLOW

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