Chindwin River - Rivers of Myanmar - Ayravata Cruises
Chindwin River
Compared to the Ayeyarwaddy, always considered the ‘Mother River’ of Myanmar, the Chindwin comes up short at 600 miles to the Ayeyarwaddy’s 1350 miles. However, she is the biggest tributary of the mighty Ayeyarwaddy and spills her strength into the longer river at a place not far from Mandalay, an old city that is the heart of Myanmar. What she lacks in length however, she makes up in spectacular scenery of lush jungles and sheer cliffs, misty-blue mountains and charming towns and villages, proudly running through a region of abundant natural resources and fertile meadows. Although the upper reaches are narrow and bordered closely with mountains, with few villages set far from each other the lower parts are more populated with mountains standing as a blue-purple backdrop in the distance. The Chindwin Valley is a place of deep jungles and lofty mountains and thus it is somewhat more isolated than the plains by either side of the Ayeyarwaddy. Hence, the cultures of the inhabitants are more unspoilt, and the towns and villages lining the river have an otherworldly atmosphere even in this country seeped in ancient traditions. Their airy bamboo houses line narrow and shady lanes along which bullock carts ply goods and people. The compounds of their house are well swept, and filled with useful medicinal plants, fruit trees, and edible vines to put into soups. A pig or two feeds happily at their troughs, and lazy cats doze in the morning sun. The people’s lives are simple, but filled with goodwill for strangers and humour among themselves, a trait testified in the works of the marvellous Sambuddhai Temple of Monywa and the cave pagodas of Hpowintaung and Shwebataung.
The Sambuddhai has nearly 600,000 Buddha images of all sizes ranging from inch high to over seven feet. The pagoda complex covers a large area where refugees found sanctuary during World War II, looked after by the Abbot of the temple. The donation hall and other buildings apart from the main temple are massive two-storied buildings, charmingly covered on the exterior from ground to roof with large, coloured figures in high relief, depicting people going about their daily life. In a few niches figures of royalty or nobility hold up plaster placards warning the living pilgrims to have discipline or honesty. Whimsical touches can be seen in a
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Chindwin River - Rivers of Myanmar - Ayravata Cruises
husband apparently being scolded by his wife, or a brown plaster dog sneaking through a plaster door, only his hind legs and happy tail visible to the outside world. In a separate prayer hall donated by the two Chinese brothers who made their fortune with ‘Tiger’ balm, their effigies stand at two corners looking on complacently at two larger than life plaster tigers clawing their way over a wall. They are the Aw Boon Haw Brothers who became millionaires and finally settled in Singapore. Out in a open compound, a group of women dressed to the nines in the fashion of the 1920s were just closing their silk parasols and chatting with each other: plaster pilgrims that have stood there since the Sambuddhai was built in 1940. Overlooking this pagoda complex is a reclining Buddha image 333ft long set on a high hillside. It is the largest reclining image in the country as well as the most beautifully proportioned. The graceful arch of the eyebrows give the image an expression full of Metta, or ‘loving kindness’ that one must have towards all beings, according to Buddhist philosophy.
More ancient than the Sambuddhai are the two cave pagoda complexes of Hpowintaung and Shwebataung, believed to be over 300 years old. There are almost one thousand caves in which both the Buddha images and the thrones were carved out of living rock. The natural shape of the caves was not changed too much, and 17th century wall paintings in exquisite detail cover the interior walls. The entrances are rimmed with traditional motifs of vines and flowers, in high or low relief. Figures of mythical beings and traditional design elements are seen both carved and painted. Very near the Hpowintaung complex are the Shwebataung cave pagodas and here the high cliffs have been cleft into narrow passages that twist, turn, rise and fall through the solid rock, and with man-made caves lining both sides. The Shwebataung caves are not too deep but they have been carved wide and high. The entrances, unlike the carved details of Hpowintaung, have been constructed of brick and plaster and the painted stuccowork represents traditional motifs and celestials as well as a few western creatures such as unicorns. Another natural wonder is an extinct volcano crater producing natural Spirulina. It is grown in many parts of the world but this is a rare natural find, the blue-green algae growing organically in a nature-made lake. Spirulina is rich in protein, minerals, amino acids, iron, beta-carotene, vitamins B and E. International researchers have found that it probably stimulates the immune system, and may have antiviral and anticancer effects. It is widely consumed in Myanmar as it costs far less than those available in other countries. No organisms can survive to pollute the waters in which this algae grows, so Spirulina is one of the cleanest, most naturally sterile foods found in nature.
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Chindwin River - Rivers of Myanmar - Ayravata Cruises
It durable a numbers. on isthe the not sides only Only and temples of elegant two fruit colours, baskets or lacquer landscape red or ware on and trays, beauty called black, with that ‘Kyauk are deft the used fingers Kar’, Chindwin for named this, that and region after sometimes aisthe design famous town in flowers producing for: a few they are seconds. also itpainted in have vast Another insight dignity while into of fascinating royalty. living the way with of aspect less life material of of these the Chindwin comforts, proud by region their friendly integrity are people. the and small They faith towns are in themselves proud and villages of their give that heritage, them give the an and Katthapa beautifully tree fragrant use present of wealthy town with queens the Thanakha the Wild of grained cut Kani merchants. fragrant Life and branches has Park hardwoods comes princesses. bark been where The once from grinded known nearby such endangered aThe this year to all area, guardian as Mahu athrough to paste teak, the Mountain tiger palace. Pyingado and of in Myanmar these old roam used times Range freely. and as history such aPadauk, were cosmetic is The the as trees richly jungles location birthplace as are and rewarded well kept are sunscreen. of as of the filled aside Thanakha, learned Alaungdaw when with only The they nobles rare for the most the and between The monasteries, of tiny jetty Kin summer are Village built long, and both is where a monsoon in place traditional children of seasons devout sit carved to Buddhists watch and teak the the and steps who boats intrees brick are offer passing proud colonial afinish grandstand of by. their styles. Water wonderful view The levels of wooden the differ river. hugely steps
One wooden is away villagers. monastery on where or their deep small enchanting from fine pride red houses utensils Shwe Mingin hand-woven walls with ofare place Zawar that town are organic such is gossipy Kyidaw, covered have especially 40 means ascotton dyes. miles lacquer stood where with figures or upriver as for silk bowls these itthrough over the houses with painted of Shwe or in a Kin distinctive a hundred trays. rare old Village out Zawar and Yaw example of years. gold is designs beautiful Yaw iscalled the leaf Monastery of The name this are on Mingin, Buddha Min awoven, artwork, flat of ashared is with surface, images. large the and which various prestige or part coloured King’s and Just is of temples usually the this a of Monastery short the inregion black seen and ride each harvest all named to Chindwin share other Kan in laughing, when what Village, Valley they the translatable labour people have. of A groups. work walk one as hard is ‘Destiny’ For not in their enough. their paddy lunch fields, Girls fields breaks, and transplant connect the however work Kyidaw paddy isKyaung meagre seedlings and with their awith small friends meals, or village help helping they with weather The work pillars, exterior Kan on also walls the proof. villagers lacquered walls dark and are always a and with spectacular gilded many eager layers in to places carved show of crude hold ceiling off their up oil lacquered the dregs own tapering beautiful that red keep sections and monastery the decorated wood of the insect roof. with wonderful The and gold. High gilt
Myanmar for used tapering enhanced not century. the folds in religious tiered of Architecture by the the roof. cloth, people buildings old The Buddha which has have monastery are to marks follow still not the rigid in since The permitted Kan image rules robes Village the as especially monarchy to agraze of work is be the abrought used prime image probably for in religious example secular are in before symbolised 1885 or construction, of royal or a but religious around design buildings. by mere the such monument, elements 18th lines Laws as the and Kalewa the waters up countries to Myit Western 60 of is Tha inches, the to the meet. Mountain River river. trading the with Apart market post Ranges its from source between of the wholesale that in monsoon loom Myanmar India over and joins season retail and the with town, India, goods the of June Chindwin. the and is pagoda to a this bustling October town Kalewa on rests place the when is hill at right for rainfall and the traders at point the the can placid of where foot reach two ofthe The especially people Chindwin are found still Valley living abundant in region traditional in ofrelaxed aimages. dense village ways. jungles called Kyauk also has Hlay ancient Gar or timber: ‘Stone fossilised Stairway’, woods a place where river. Towards spectacular. blue Sein, of The acommon the row the number sky. of The upper 28 Misty fertile white-washed signifies reaches blue green and the fields the 28 green pagodas Buddhas Chindwin, where hills line rise cattle that the the high have view crest on on the of border either aended horizon, sloping enlightenment the side waters and hill grows and near reflected even file the to down the village more with world. towards the of Ma deep
government. Offices The undiscovered It dealt day worked offspring: only town cool inalso as during teak, understands weather elephants of well ais Mawlaik Set trading abundantly by the as the on must the colonial apost are general further guesthouse commands hill, have so found for itperiod smart is upriver the been public, aso, in pretty colonial itor spoken the once reminiscent is was itelse surely area. isspot called aonce era they in wonderful with Italthough English. not enterprise isa might the of said centre beyond old English ‘Dak colonial have that spot As of Bungalow’ the elephants their timber administration springtime, to passed Bombay style get abilities elephants away buildings on are live Burmah language and to from still long, do although of preserved and everything so. the they this Company skills British pretty region might and houses. stressful. their that have to this one Pakhan-gyi city that can flourished see vestiges almost eight at of the centuries its past point glory where ago, in and the Chindwin old city walls. nothing and the Ayeyarwaddy than afor large meets. town Itto nowadays, is an old Allwas Chindwin wild worthy these life, to old old be River cultures towns the is pride often and and of overlooked villages Myanmar, more survive people but this the beautiful in who this region modern are and she proud wilful feeds day to with lady live ismore adeep-rooted along of land the rich her wilds. in banks. minerals, cultures. She The is jungles, aused. river By Ma Thanegi for RV Paukan1947All Rights Rerversed
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