Holy Smoke

from Palmetto Magazine Fall Winter 2018

A Place in the Sun

Across South Carolina, the tendrils of flavor that waft through the air with a hint of hickory and a whisper of tangy vinegar are the essence of a barbecue birthright.

**John Lewis of Lewis Barbecue showing off the fruits of his labor.**

If you’re hoping to rile up a South Carolinian, throw shade on their football teams, announce that the tea is too sweet, the marsh smells funky, or people talk too slow. If you’re looking to stir up a hornet’s nest of epic proportions, dare to claim that your barbecue is better than theirs. In this state, barbecue is sacred. It can also be a bit confusing.

The semantics are important. According to the South Carolina BBQ Association, the Palmetto State’s barbeque is all about pork. As a verb, the term describes the act of cooking pork for hours over the low heat of hardwood coals. As a noun, it is the product of cooking pork for hours over the low heat of hardwood coals. To barbecue is not to grill, nor is a barbecue a cookout. Although any meat can be cooked over a flame, when you talk about a South Carolina barbecue, you’re not grilling burgers or chicken. Technically, one could attend a barbecue, which would be a gathering where pork is barbecued, and the barbecue is eaten, but actually, we call that a pig pickin’.

Then there is the spelling. Though purists might argue, it’s a case of tomayto or tomahto, whether spelled with the more accepted barbecue, the Southern variant of barbeque or the shorthand moniker of BBQ, the meaning is the same.

Lake Hughes, the author of The History of South Carolina Barbeque, writes that South Carolinians have every reason to come to feel possessive of the method of cooking that renders their swine absolutely divine. Hughes opines that though the actual word “barbeque” has its origins in the West Indian barbacoa, it originally referred only to the actual wooden structure used to suspend meat over a fire. His research shows that the method of cooking began in South Carolina as a result of the Spanish introduction of pigs to the region. There, along the southern coastline, St. Elena Native Americans developed the technique of slow cooking pork over coals to tenderize the otherwise lean, dry meat. The word was eventually adopted into the lexicon to refer to the method and the meat. With over 220 family-friendly restaurants on South Carolina’s BBQ Trail, a barbecue enthusiast might travel from the mountains to the Midlands and to the coast, sampling the best that the birthplace of barbecue has to offer along the way. All across the state, award-winning pitmasters devote hours to staying true to the time-honored technique. Their passion is plated on china in fine dining establishments, folded into cardboard cartons at converted gas stations, wrapped in waxed paper at country stores, and delivered on trendy aluminum trays in suburban watering holes.

Through the centuries, four distinctly different styles have evolved. They are often passed down from generation to generation, and most pitmasters harbor a secret ingredient to define their signature style. Some swear by whole hog only, while others revolve around ribs or make butts their business. While lines may be drawn by region, it all comes down to the sauce applied before, during, and after the meat is cooked. You’ll find a spicy vinegar and pepper mixture near the coast, in the Midland’s a sweet, mustard-based recipe, a thick, tomato-based sauce Upstate, and a more universal, lighter tomato option popular in the Pee Dee region.

It’s pointless to try and sway those of one persuasion to the style of another. Like football teams and sweet tea, everyone has their own reasons to choose one over the other. But before you mention your penchant for that other Carolina’s barbecue, talk about Texas or bring Kansas City into the mix, hop on the BBQ Trail, for a taste of barbecue the way it was meant to be—made in South Carolina.

**BBQ Barn in North Augusta is a local favorite.**

**Links being smoked over a hot grill.**

**It’s all about the sauce at Swig & Swine.**

**John Lewis checks on the state of affairs in his smoker.**

**A sampler at Lewis Barbecue is full of fixin’s.**

**Cooper’s Country Store is well worth the rural drive.**

**A barbecue sandwich is full of the good stuff at Swig & Swine.**

**Rodney Scott’s BBQ is open, airy, and delicious.**

Lewis Barbecue

When John Lewis fires up his massive custom-made smokers in the early hours of the morning, the city streets take on the distinctive aroma of Central Texas barbecue. Tuesday through Sunday, Pitmaster John Lewis serves up expertly smoked pork spareribs, beef ribs, “Texas hot guts” sausage, oxtail and his legendary beef brisket. Redolent with unique flavor profiles created by the El Paso native, the menu’s daily specials such as Wagyu beef back ribs, chicken-fried steak and prime rib, along with a full complement of sandwiches and sides have dedicated barbecue fans lining up to indulge in the full effect of “what 18 hours tastes like.”

Open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 am - 10 pm 464 North Nassau Street, Charleston, SC (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com

Maurice's Piggy Park BBQ

When Joe Bessinger first served his tangy, mustard-based sauce over a plate of tender, hickory-smoked pork in 1939, a new standard was set for barbecue lovers. At age 9, son Maurice began cooking with his father, and the torch was passed to the next generation. With the recipe for dad’s secret sauce in hand, Maurice opened Maurice’s Piggy Park in West Columbia, SC. Today you will find his children serving up the family’s legendary barbecue, along with ribs and chicken tenders, hash, and hamburgers, potato salad, catfish stew and much more. Family matters to the Bessingers, so bring yours by to meet theirs today.

Open Sunday through Thursday 10 am - 9 pm, Friday & Saturday 10 am - 10 pm 1600 Charleston Highway, West Columbia, SC (803)796-0220 or visit piggypark.com for a location near you.

Rodney Scott's Whole Hog BBQ

Cut-chop-cook is the mantra for Rodney Scott, the Charleston pitmaster recently named the winner of the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Southeast Award. Scott’s Charleston restaurant has helped bring about a virtual barbecue renaissance in a town well-known for its culinary scene. Slow-smoked over hardwood coals, Scott’s whole hog barbecue takes center stage, and big, meaty spare ribs get saucy alongside pit-cooked chicken and turkey. Sandwiches, salads and sides round out a menu with something for everyone, and Ella’s Banana Pudding wraps up the flavor feast with its sweet salute to a true Southern favorite. A drive-thru window offers barbecue on the fly, and for special events, feed a crowd from a tasty selection of catering options.

Open every day, 11 am - 9 pm 1011 King Street, Charleston, SC (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com

Cooper's Country Store

At the crossroads of US-521 and Martin Luther King Jr. Highway time has stood still since 1937. At the white clapboard store on the corner you can pick up a pound of nails, oil for your tractor, and some of the best Williamsburg County barbecue you’ll ever put in your mouth. Pitmasters Russell Cooper and Vern Darby turn the whole hogs skin up over hardwood for hours, then and fill them with a vinegar based sauce spiked with spices and pepper to allow the flavor to seep through to the bone. They make it mild, but Cooper says if you add enough black pepper, it will “pull sweat out from under your eyes.” Their selection of hot food changes daily, but barbecue is always on the menu. Stop by and pick up a sandwich or fresh smoked ham for the holidays, or drop by to just soak up the flavor of this iconic store.

Open Monday through Saturday, 7 am to 7 pm 6945 US-521, Salters, SC

Home Team BBQ

Converting a gas station to a barbecue joint with white tablecloth sensibilities might seem like an impossible task, but with no small amount of elbow grease, patience, and finesse, Aaron Siegel created a classy, comfortable establishment West Ashley, with the feel of a neighborhood hangout. Then he did it again and again across the Lowcountry. In Home Team kitchens, the classic flavors of old favorites are honored, while a creative spin on slowcooked meats and Southern comfort food is sure to please traditionalists and adventurous barbecue lovers. Craft cocktails and spirits are plentiful, and a menu chocked full of snacks, tacos, salads, sandwiches and platters make choosing a favorite impossible. With three locations to choose from, getting there is easy from wherever you are.

For specific hours for the location nearest you, visit hometeambbq.com. 1205 Ashley River Road, Charleston (843)225-RIBS ext.2 2209 Middle Street, Sullivan’s Island (843)225-RIBS ext.3 126 Williman Street, Charleston, (843)225-RIBS ext.4

Bacon Bros. Public House

Naming yourself after the most beloved meat of all time is a little like jumping in a hot frying pan. Setting goals to include serving the highest quality, farm-fresh ingredients, and superior service in an engaging environment might jump you right into the fire. But when 4 friends set out to create a culinary experience in 2012, they discovered a “cure” for ordinary dining. The dishes made from scratch, cured in-house and served with a smile against a backdrop of rustic warmth are from a chef-driven, seasonal menu that is eclectic and modern, yet respectful of tradition. With a wide range of libations, old and new Southern favorites, and powered by divine swine, Bacon Bros. is no flash in the pan, but rather, a sizzling success.

Open Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 10 pm, Friday, 11 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 11 pm and Saturday, 11 am to 11 pm 3620 Pelham Road, Greenville, SC (864) 297-6000 baconbrospublichouse.com

Cannon's BBQ n More

There’s a fire burning in the Midlands, made from hardwoods reduced to amber coals. On metal grates above it, rows of Boston butts rest in the smoky darkness, slowly collecting the essence of the wood that keeps those seeking authentic Southern barbecue driving miles toward the unassuming white building. The out-of-the-way smoke shack located just north of the Lexington/ Newberry County line isn’t grand by conventional standards, but what it lacks in flash, it more than makes up for in flavor. You won’t find a fancy sign announcing pitmaster Leon Cannon’s brisket or ribs, or even a sandwich board boasting of melt-inyour-mouth hash cooked in metal wash pots. When barbecue is this good, it speaks for itself.

Open Thursday and Friday, 11 am to 7:30 pm Saturday, 11 am to 6:30 pm 1903 Nursery Road, Little Mountain, SC (803) 945-1080

Swig N Swine

One might not imagine that Anthony DiBernardo’s job as submarine cook set the course for a successful barbecue business, but when that career deposited him and his mad cooking skills in the Lowcountry, it may have been fate. Fast forward 25 years, to Chef DiBernardo’s distinguished culinary career and a brilliant collaboration with Queen Street Hospitality Group creating a barbecue-lover's-barbecue-destination in the Lowcountry. With mouthwatering pulled pork, beef brisket, smoked turkey, smoked pork belly, housemade sausage, chicken wings, and juicy ribs, all smoked to perfection over hardwood coals, plenty of tasty sides and a selection of over 60 craft beers on the menu, pigging out has never tasted so good!

Open every day, 11 am to 10 pm 1217 Savannah HW, Charleston, SC (843) 225-3805 swigandswinebbq.com 2379 Highway 41, Mt. Pleasant, SC (843) 416-7368

The Smokin' Pig

It’s Monday at the Smoking Pig in Pendleton, where the hanging automobile tags chronicle visitors from every state, and everyone knows your name—because you wrote it on the wall. The fire is rekindled every Monday, and over 4 tons of meat prepared for their low, slow turn in the smoky heat. Come Thursday, eager eaters will be lined up and ready for their favorite barbecue meal. But during football season, it’s all about the Tailgate Packages that will make you the hit of the parking lot, with pork, beans, slaw or potato salad, buns and sweet tea to serve anywhere from 5 to 40 revelers. With three locations across the Upstate, the Pig is a hot ticket to tasty town!

Open Thursday through Saturday, 11 am to 9 pm 6630 Clemson Boulevard, Pendleton, SC (864) 646-5150 smokinpigsc.com 720 Anderson Drive, Williamston, SC (864) 841-2323 701 S. Pendleton Street, Easley, SC (864) 442-5074

Southern Smoke BBQ Restaurant N Food Trucks

The frills are few at this restaurant that sees no reason to put lipstick, or sauce, on a pig, “What sauce? You don’t need it—try it!” their menu instructs, and those who come through its doors, or follow its food trucks will tell you not to fiddle with what’s on the menu, either. But when the meat is moist and tender, the chicken falls off the bone, the fried pickles hit the perfect notes and the hash is heavenly, why mess with perfection? Food truck locations change daily, so follow them on Facebook to be first in line!

Open Thursday through Saturday, 11 am to 9 pm 926 Easley Highway, Pelzer, SC (864) 402-6040

Sweatman's Bar-B-que

There isn’t a sign on Eutawville Road that reads “Stop for Barbecue,” but there should be. If you find yourself on Eutawville Road outside Holly Hill, you’re definitely going to want to hit the brakes when you see the picturesque old farmhouse where three days of chopping hickory, oak, and pecan each week prepares the smoker for the whole hog barbeque owner Mark Behr serves Friday and Saturday. Basted with secret sauce and fork-tender with flavor acquired by 14 hours of low and slow cooking, it’s no wonder that Sweatman’s has attracted attention from the likes of The Travel Channel’s “No Reservations,” and “Food Paradise,” and The Cooking Channel’s “Man, Fire, Food.” Choose a one-time trip through the buffet, or opt for the bottomless option. You can decide on the way. Get in the car—it’s time for a road trip!

Open Friday and Saturday, 11:30 am to 9 pm 1427 Eutaw Rd, Holly Hill, SC (803) 496-1227 sweatmansbbq.com

BBQ Barn

Bridging the great barbecue divide with its proximity to the GA/SC state lines, for over 12 years the authentic, hickory-smoked pork, ribs, brisket, chicken and turkey of Jody and Susan Glover’s North Augusta restaurant have happily united both sides in a true Southern flavor-fest. If the slow-cooked meats, side dishes that seem straight from your grandmother’s house, and heavenly hash made from pure Boston butts don’t have your buttons popping, “Girdle Buster” desserts like Happy Cake, a chocolate cake with peanut butter, cream cheese frosting, topped with crushed Oreos and sliced peanut butter cups may stretch your waistband to the limit. Stop in for lunch or dinner, or pick up meat and sides by the pound, sauce by the bottle, and whole cakes—or they’ll happily cater your special event.

Open Wednesday 11am – 6pm Thursday-Saturday 11am - 8:30pm 10298 Atomic Road, North Augusta, SC (803) 278-7202 bbqbarnna.com