The Arizona Trail

Red Mountain exposed

An unusual view of a cinder cone

LARRY HENDRICKS

Thick-trunked junipers and stunted pinyon pines bathe in sunlight as the sky builds with fattening monsoon clouds. A stiff breeze dries the sweat on the back of the neck, keeps the body cool and aggressive flies at bay.

Reddish dirt coats the shoes, and the thick fragrance of mountain flowers tickle the nose. A rusted iron cut, as if a giant used a cleaver on the landscape, bisects the mountain and reveals the fascinating geologic beauty that typifies this part of northern Arizona.

My work colleague and friend Evan Burris and I are on the trail at Red Mountain. It is an easy outing west of Flagstaff that few people make, opting instead to stay in the car and head for the Grand Canyon.

They are missing out.

According to information from the U.S. Geological Survey, Red Mountain is a 740,000-year-old cinder cone volcano situated among hundreds of other cinder cones in the San Francisco Volcanic Field.

Unlike most cinder cone volcanoes, Red Mountain’s guts are exposed to the world, revealing the geologic processes that took place in creating the rugged landscape.

The trail gradually rises toward the mountain and the “amphitheater” nestled at the base of 800-foot reddish-brown cliffs. The creation of the amphitheater is shrouded in mystery to geologists. How it happened, they don’t entirely know. The trail dips into a wash, and we follow the wash in between cinder mounds toward the shade of the amphitheater. Before we arrive at the large hollow, I suggest we climb the cinders to the east to get a better view of the volcanic field that stretches across the plateau. Hiking up loose

cinders is a chore, with every two steps up leading to a brutal slide back, over and over, until the lungs burn. Eventually, we hit the ridge and are rewarded with a higher view of Red Mountain and an unobstructed view toward Slate Mountain, Kendrick Mountain and the San Francisco Peaks. The panoramic view, complete with dancing clouds gathering steam for a monsoon rain, takes the breath away.

Birdsong and insect buzz play on the breeze, and as Evan and I stroll through the dense brush clinging for dear life on the ridge’s cindery soil, we spot deer and antelope scat.

After a heart-thumping descent of sliding and slipping, we land back in the wash, climb a small ladder and head into the amphitheater. The area is filled with large, stone structures called “hoodoos” topped with solid rocks for hats. The cliff walls are pockmarked with holes and little caves, which, according to the USGS, is the result of water and wind erosion. Green, sandstone red and dark grays are featured in nature’s color palette here. The amphitheater is cooler than the sun-exposed path from the trailhead.

We hike along the sandy trail to the southeastern corner. Evan shows me a chimney of rock that we climb to get interesting views of the exposed volcanic material worn nearly smooth in areas by running water.

Other hikers sit in shaded areas and gaze at the unusual rock formations all around. Clouds, white and graying with rain, pass overhead making the light in the amphitheater dance.

I marvel at the surreal imagination of the creative force used to make Red Mountain. We gaze about with mouths open and eyes wide. Once rested from the heat and renewed with water, we head back.

As Evan and I amble to the trailhead, we come upon a man with children. They stare at the ground and point at a horned toad scurrying through the duff and stones. Evan scoops up the small reptile and holds it out for the children to touch. They approach cautiously, not entirely sure if it’s all right to touch the fearsome-looking little creature. A hand reaches out and brushes the barbs on the toad’s skin.

“The horns are soft,” says one little boy, surprised.

After the children have their fill, Evan sets the horned toad in a shaded spot off the trail, and we head on our way back to the car.

I make the decision to return on a cloudless, moonless night. The hoodoos will make a wonderful photographic landscape against the immensity of the Milky Way.

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Length: Three miles round trip—a great hike for children. Dogs are allowed on leash. Difficulty: Easy— less than 500 feet elevation gain, unless you try to scramble up a cinder hill. Directions: From Flagstaff, take U.S. Highway 180 west toward Grand Canyon for about 25 miles. Make a left at milepost 247. The dirt road goes about a quarter-mile and ends at a small parking area for the trail.

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35. El Tovar Hotel

A great way to get close to wildlife is Bearizona, a drive-through wildlife park that features all kinds of great Western animals. Black bear, bison, big horn sheep, artic wolves and gray wolves are among the animals on the tour. This is a great stop for any family given all the animal fun and educational opportunities. Learn more at www.bearizona.com.

36. A Flight over Grand Canyon

There are multiple ways to experience the Grand Canyon by air. Most people take the helicopter tours, but there also are fixed-wing plane offerings. Whatever the aircraft, seeing the Grand Canyon from higher altitudes is sure to impress and inspire. Learn more at www.grandcanyoncvb.org, which has a list of all of the flight tour companies, some of which operate out of Phoenix and Las Vegas. However, several of the flights originate out of the Grand Canyon Airport at Tusayan.

37. Bright Angel Lodge

The iconic Bright Angel Lodge and Cabins are full of cultural history. Famed Southwest architect Mary Colter was tasked with designing a fresh look for the lodge, including a geologic fireplace in the History Room that features all the rock layers of the Grand Canyon. www.grandcanyonlodges.com.

38. Hopi House

Another historic building designed by Colter, Hopi House—modeled after 10,000-year-old pueblo dwellings in the Hopi village in Old Oraibi—offers visitors a glimpse back in time. The gift shop carries Native American arts and crafts as well as museum quality artifact viewing. Verkamp’s Visitor Center a short walk east of Hopi House and El Tovar Hotel also offers a unique shopping experience. www.grand

39. Yavapai Lodge Tavern

After adventuring along the canyon’s South Rim, visitors can relax at the Yavapai Tavern with drinks and dinner on the outdoor patio. www.visitgrandcanyon.com.

40. Trailer Village RV Park

Camp in style at the Grand Canyon’s only RV park with full hookups, and it’s conveniently located less than a mile away from the national park. www.visitgrandcanyon.com.

41. The Grand Canyon Railway

The Grand Canyon Railway runs from Williams to the rim, offering scenery and a chance to ride an old locomotive. Grand Canyon Railway is home to a unique collection of historical railway cars, each with its own story. Grand Canyon Railway works to maintain the original look of the railcars, showcasing rail travel’s rich and diverse history. Learn more at www.thetrain.com.

42. Grand Canyon by Mule

Nothing is as classic or iconic as riding a mule into and out of the Grand Canyon. A true Out West experience, the mule rides head down the Bright Angel Trail to Phantom Ranch for an overnight visit to the inner canyon resort or stay on the rim for a day ride on the North Rim. Learn more about the trips, prices and the weight restrictions (yes, they do weigh everyone) at www.nps.gov/grca /planyourvisit/mule_trips.htm.

43. Hiking in the Canyon

While the Grand Canyon looks sparse below the rim, it is a place well-populated with trails. The North Rim is currently closed due to the Magnum Fire, but an excess of 300 developed miles of routes and six major entry points located near or at the developed South Rim offer the chance to find adventure. Day hiking on inner canyon trails and existing backcountry permits for hikers camping overnight will be honored. www.nps.gov/grca / planyourvisit/grand-canyon-nationalpark-public-health-update.htm.

44. Phantom Ranch

No lineup of Grand Canyon things to do is complete without adding Phantom Ranch. The ranch is a rugged getaway at the very bottom of the Grand Canyon. It features cabins and bunkhouses and nightly steak and stew dinners. The journey to Phantom Ranch is an amazing one, following the trails by foot or on mule. Reservations book fast but lucky folks can grab a room or bunkhouse bed on standby. www.grandcanyonlodges.com.

45. Grand Canyon Deer Farm

For another fun family-friendly break from the long drives, try the Grand Canyon Deer Farm. Don’t be fooled by the name. The deer farm is expansive and includes bison, Coatimundi, Marmosets, parrots and other animals. Entrance fees apply. The farm allows visitors to feed the deer and pet some of the other animals. Visit www.deerfarm.com.

46. Bearizona

A great way to get close to wildlife is Bearizona, a drive-through wildlife park that features all kinds of great Western animals. Black bear, bison, big horn sheep, artic wolves and gray wolves are among the animals on the tour. This is a

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great stop for any family given all the animal fun and educational opportunities. Learn more at www.bearizona.com.

47. Cycling to Hermit’s Rest

At the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, the Hermit’s Rest Road heads west for eight miles to the gift shop and snack bar at Hermit’s Rest. Along the way are incredible viewpoints and a somewhat quieter canyon experience. Because the road is closed to traffic most of the year and only shuttle accessible, it makes for a perfect bicycle ride. A bicycle rental service is offered through Bright Angel Bicycles. Visit www.bikegrandcanyon.com.

48. Red Mountain

When this cinder cone volcano erupted around 740,000 years ago, rather than lava bursting from the top, it blew out the side of the volcano, revealing its insides. Towering rock formations called hoodoos, eroded by wind and water over the years, rise up as high as 1,000 feet in places to form a natural amphitheater at the end of the short out-and-back trail. From Flagstaff, drive northwest on US 180 for approximately 25 miles to a dirt road at Milepost 247 (look for the Forest Service sign that marks the Red Mountain Trail). Turn left onto the dirt road and drive about a

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quarter-mile to the trailhead.

49. Horseshoe Bend

This attraction along the Colorado River is popular for a reason, and has quickly become one of the most recognized places in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The 1.5-mile hike from the parking lot to the overlook is over flat terrain and accessible to wheelchairs. Entrance fees start at $5 for motorcycles and $10 for passenger vehicles. www.horseshoebend.com.

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50. Lake Powell

Spread across northern Arizona and southern Utah, Lake Powell offers a number of recreation opportunities, including renting a house boat, camping on the beach, going on a guided tour and more. www.lakepowell.com.

51. Lees Ferry

One of northern Arizona’s most overlooked gems is Lees Ferry. Located within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is the launching point for Grand Canyon river trips, but it is so much more. The locale offers the chance to walk along the banks of the Colorado River, to explore the Mormon pioneer homestead of Lonely Dell Ranch and to hike a number of great trails. Learn more at www.nps.gov/glca.

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Verde Valley, Prescott and Rim Country

52. Mogollon Rim

One of northern Arizona’s hidden treasures is the Mogollon Rim drive, a passable dirt road through the forest along 2,000- foot cliffs with stunning views all along the way, and some great trails to go with it. Located about 60 miles southeast of Flagstaff. www.fs.usda.gov/Coconino.

53. Folded Hills Orchard

Bring the family out for a fun afternoon of picking blackberries at Folded Hills Orchard in Cornville. Visitors are encouraged to wear long pants, long sleeves, gloves and closed-toe shoes. Blackberries can be taken home at $5.50 per pound. The orchard is open Tuesday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Call (928) 634-4649 for more information.

54. The City of Jerome

Located along a steep and winding section of U.S. 89A that heads out of Verde Valley, Jerome is a former mining town turned tourist attraction that now finds its richness in character. www.jeromearizona.org.

55. The Haunted Hamburger

A must-stop while in Jerome, the Haunted Hamburger has many stories to tell. During renovation of the formerly abandoned building, workers recall multiple hammers disappearing, and current staff have reported curious incidences of cans flying off shelves and hot water being turned on in the middle of the night. The restaurant also features a patio overlooking the city to the north, with the San Francisco Peaks visible in the distance. Visit www.thehauntedhamburger.com for more information.

56. Old Town Cottonwood

In the last decade, Old Town Cottonwood has evolved into a dining, sipping, shopping and strolling hotspot. Bolstered by the growth of the area’s wine industry, this historic district in Cottonwood has added tasting rooms and haute cuisine to its map. www.oldtown.org.

57. Verde Canyon Railroad

Train enthusiasts and anyone looking for a relaxing day in a beautiful canyon will enjoy a ride on the Verde Canyon Railroad. The train’s 40-mile round trip takes about four hours, as it heads into one of Arizona’s hidden canyons. www.verdecanyonrr.com.

58. Out of Africa Wildlife Park

Out of Africa Wildlife Park has grown into a major attraction in the Verde Valley. Interaction is big, and visitors have the chance to feed the giraffes and see ostriches and other animals up close. A day at this park is sure to be a family hit. Tuesdays are reserved for visitors wishing to enjoy the park from the com fort of their car. Animal keepers will also be presenting Facebook Live videos on those days. www.outofafricapark.com.

59. Dead Horse Ranch State Park

For a chance to find peace and solitude among the flora and fauna of the Verde River and three adjacent lagoons, visit Dead Horse Ranch State Park. Limited day use is currently allowed, with reduced parking lot capacity. The park also features rental cabins and great camping opportunities. www.azstateparks.com/dead-horse.

60. Rock Climbing in Prescott

Some of the best rock climbing around awaits in the greater Prescott area, where the granite outcrops call for ascent. Granite Mountain has the biggest draw, with crack and face climbing. Bouldering routes are big around Groom Creek. www.fs.usda. gov/prescott/

61. Watson Lake

Located near Prescott, Watson Lake is a wonderful gem just a few miles west of Prescott. The lake covers 70 acres and also is popular for fishing largemouth bass and catfish. Learn more at www.cityofprescott. net.

62. Tonto Natural Bridge State Park

One of the most beautiful yet sometimes overlooked state parks is Tonto Natural Bridge. The bridge itself is more like a natural rock tunnel, formed of travertine and more than 400 feet long and 150 tall. A perennial creek, Pine Creek, courses through it. As of the third week of June, the monument is temporarily closed due to the Bush Fire burning nearby, but continue to check for updates at www.azstateparks. com/tonto.

63. Wet Beaver Creek

Sometimes referred to by locals as the “other Oak Creek,” Wet Beaver Creek is a pulsing, perennial stream flanked by red rock faces and surrounded by towering sycamore trees. It’s a popular destination among tourists and locals alike, so try to plan your visit during weekday off-peak hours rather than a busy weekend. www. fs.usda.gov/Coconino.

64. Mingus Mountain

Mingus Mountain stands as a 7,818- foot peak and is the highest point in the range. Mingus offers a handful of great hikes, as well as a picnic area. www. fs.usda.gov/prescott/

65, 66, 67. Montezuma’s Castle, Montezuma Well, and Tuzigoot

The Verde Valley is home to a triumvirate of ancient sites that are national monuments. Montezuma’s Castle features a four-story, multi-room ruin trussed into an alcove. Montezuma Well features a sink surging with fresh water and Tuzigoot is on a hill that flanks the Verde River. www.nps.gov/moca.

68. Visiting the Vineyards

For more refined tastes, be sure to check out some of the vineyards that have grown out of the Verde Valley. The two most popular are Page Springs Cellars at www.pagespringscellars.com and Granite Creek Vineyards at www.granitecreekvineyards.com. The latter’s live music series will start back up beginning June 13.

69. Whiskey Row

The most popular part of downtown Prescott is “Whiskey Row,” a line of restored saloons that feature bars and eateries. They join the more than 500 nationally registered buildings in Prescott. www.visit-prescott.com.

70. Agua Fria National Monument

One of the newer national monuments in Arizona features cool-water springs in the desert, ancient sites and desert beauty—all within minutes of Interstate 17. www.blm.gov/visit/agua-fria.

71. Arcosanti

Arizona was home to one of the most innovative architects, Paolo Soleri, who invented sustainable building practices known as arcology. His most ambitious project, Arcosanti, is halfway between Flagstaff and Phoenix on Interstate 17. Tours and limited summer programs are offered. www.arcosanti.org.

Route 66

72. Meteor City Trading Post

Soon opening back up to the public after almost 10 years of abandonment, Meteor City Trading Post has been a Route 66 destination since it opened as a gas station in 1938.

73. Jack Rabbit Trading Post

Home of the famous Here It Is sign, Jack Rabbit Trading Post has served tourists along Route 66 since 1949. www.jackrabbittradingpost.com

74. Earl’s Route 66 Motor Court

Visitors who stay at Earl’s Route 66 Motor Court are welcomed back in time as they relax in the comfortable motel that reflects the historic route’s heyday. www.winslow. town.

75. Corner Park

Celebrate Winslow’s claim to fame by grabbing a selfie at Standin’ on the Corner Park, Route 66 and North Kinsley Avenue. The Eagles put the town on their map with their 1972 hit “Take it Easy.” The bronze statue of the cowboy balladeer in front of a mural of a girl in a flat-bed Ford is the perfect place for a sing-along: “I’m a standin’ on a corner in Winslow, Arizona. Such a fine sight to see…” (Fun fact: The corner on which the girl caught Glenn Frey’s eye was actually supposedly in Flagstaff on Route 66, where the Dog Haus currently stands.)

76. Oatman

The farthest west entry of 99 Things is a mining town on a scenic stretch of West Route 66 that went defunct but then rose again as a fun and curious tourist town. The big highlight is the wild burros that wander the town and eat carrots offered by visitors. www.oatmangoldroad.org.

77. Giganticus Headicus

Inspired by The Andy Warhol Diaries, welder Gregg Arnold built this 14-foottall statue—resembling a mix between an Easter Island head and a Tiki God—at the old Kozy Korner trailer park complex in Kingman. The curiosity offers a fun photo opportunity for travelers passing through.

78. Hackberry General Store

Another must-see near Kingman for nostalgia buffs is the Hackberry General Store. Historic Pegasus gas pumps and rusted-over Model As from the early 20th century welcome visits out front, while the inside boasts a wide variety of Route 66 memorabilia. Visit the general store on Facebook for more information.

79. Wigwam Motel

Drivers passing this landmark motel in Holbrook may recognize it as the inspiration behind the Cozy Cone Motel from Pixar’s animated Cars franchise. The Wigwam Motel was built in 1950, and includes 15 wigwams which can sleep up to four guests. Vintage automobiles throughout the parking lot add to the feel of stepping back in time. www.wigwam

80. Route 66 in Seligman

Need more Route 66? Drive 70 miles west from Flagstaff to visit Seligman, a funky little town that celebrates the fun of the Mother Road. Get more ideas on 66 at www.route66world.com.

Farther East and West

81. Chloride

A former silver mining camp 23 miles north of Kingman, Chloride is the oldest continuously inhabited mining town in the state. It once boasted 75 active mines, but now residents and visitors enjoy the quiet setting which offers unmatched views of vibrant sunsets and the starry night sky. Public art installations also abound.

82. Petrified Forest National Park

Petrified Forest National Park was one of the first places in the country to earn protection as a national monument, and for good reason. The petrified wood that fills the park is beautifully formed with orange, red, white and purple hues. The wood is no longer wood, but a mineral called silica, turned to quartz—which replaced the wood fiber. Impurities give the silica its broad and vibrant range of colors. Learn more at www. nps.gov/pefo.

83. Meteor Crater

Space junkies and anyone fascinated with science will make a point to stop at Meteor Crater. Located halfway between Flagstaff and Winslow, the crater was formed by an impact of a meteorite that hit the Earth about 50,000 years ago. www. meteorcrater.com.

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84. East Clear Creek

This reservoir just five miles outside of Winslow boasts tall cliffs surrounding cool water. Many people who visit bring a canoe, kayak, standup paddleboard or simply relax in a pool float. Petroglyphs along the base of the cliffs encourage exploration.

85. Blue Ridge Reservoir

For anyone interested in fishing, boating, swimming or just spending a lazy day by a beautiful lake, C.C. Cragin (Blue Ridge) Reservoir offers the perfect getaway. Just south of Flagstaff, the reservoir is an important water source for the town of Payson.

86. Homovoli State Park

Located a short distance east of Winslow, Homovoli State Park features the remains of a 14th Century village, a place where the ancestors of the Hopi lived. “Homolovi” is Hopi for “Place of the Little Hills,” the traditional name for Winslow. The museum, visitor’s center and observatory are currently closed, but the campground is open. www.azstateparks.com /homolovi /explore/maps.

87. La Posada

Located in Winslow, the historic La

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88. Sedona by Mountain Bike

Sedona’s trail system is one of the best for mountain biking. While not all trails are bike accessible, many technically challenging ones are open for use. Most bikers flock to the area known as Broken Arrow, and Bell Rock Pathway is also a big hit. Over the Edge Sedona bike shop on Highway 89A has maps, expert guidance and rentals.

89. Crescent Moon Picnic Area

Looking for the picture-perfect picnic spot? Few places can match the scenery of Crescent Moon Picnic Area for a day of relaxing under the sycamore trees and listening to the babble of Oak Creek. The relatively shallow depths and steady flow make it great for kids to play in. Visit in the late afternoon to capture the best photograph of Cathedral Rock. Get there by driving west from Sedona on Highway 89A. Just outside town, turn left onto Upper Red Rock Loop Road and follow the signs to Crescent Moon and Red Rock crossing. Fee: $10 per vehicle.

90. Red Rock Country by Jeep

Sedona is famous for its Jeep tours that take visitors off-road for premier views of the red rock formations. Riders sit back while drivers do all of the rest. Pink Adventure Tours has been operating its iconic Pink Jeep excursions in Sedona since 1960. Learn more about new safety measures being implemented by the company during the coronavirus pandemic at www.pinkadventuretours.com.

91. Slide Rock State Park

Located in Oak Creek Canyon,Slide Rock State Park is the ultimate Sedona summer attraction. The park features a natural water chute in Oak Creek as it cuts through a channel of red rock. Visitors line up and take turns riding the creek through the chute. Plan to arrive early, especially on weekends. Parking lot capacity has been reduced this year, and walk-ins and drop-offs are not currently allowed. There is a fee per vehicle to enter the park, ranging from $10 to $30 depending on the time of year.

State Park is the place to explore and experience Sedona’s Red Rock Country without the bustle of Jeeps, mountain bikers and crowds. The 286-acre park is designed around interacting with and understanding the natural world. Blackhawk and Sentinel Crossings are closed until further notice. Entrance fees: $7 per adult, $4 per child, free for children 6 and younger.

93. Oak Creek Canyon

One of the most scenic stretches of highway in the Southwest falls between Flagstaff and Sedona, where US 89A winds its way through the lush and stunning Oak Creek Canyon. But the drive is just the beginning, as the canyon features several premier hiking destinations. The most popular hike is the canyon’s West Fork Trail. The trailhead is located between mileposts 385 and 384.

94. Sedona’s Arches

Geology and rock lovers will not want to miss the chance to visit Fay Canyon Arch or Devil’s Bridge. To find Fay Canyon Arch, locate the correct unmaintained trail to the right of the Fay Canyon Trail, about a halfmile along. Devil’s Bridge is located on a trail with its namesake or accessed via the Chuck Wagon Trail.

95. Cathedral Rock

The monument of sandstone known as Cathedral Rock rises from the unfurled land south of Sedona. And it deserves its name. The six-tenths-of-a-mile trail begins easily enough as it snakes its way through juniper trees and patches of prickly pear. But beyond the Templeton Trail intersection, the way up to Cathedral Rock becomes a scramble. The hike is located off of Route 179 on Back O’ Beyond Road.

96. Grasshopper Point

Located just a few miles north of Sedona, this day-use area has one great swimming hole at the point Oak Creek takes a bend. Along with the great swimming opportunities are some trails to explore. There is an $8 per vehicle fee to access this area.

97. Honanki Heritage Site

Located south of Sedona, the Honanki ruins offer a glimpse into the ancient culture that resided in red rock country. The Sinagua, ancestors of the Hopi, lived in the area between AD 1150-1350, tending to crops and hunting wildlife. Before visiting, call (928) 203-2900 to reserve a tour time slot.

98. Tlaquepaque Village

For a unique shopping and dining experience, Tlaquepaque offers some of the best in Sedona. Located a stone’s throw from Oak Creek under the curving limps of sycamore trees, the Spanish-style villa shops include high-end galleries, curios, fine dining, live music and local craft beer. www.tlaq.com.

99. Chapel of the Holy Cross

An architectural landmark, the Chapel of the Holy Cross juts out from the red rocks beckoning drivers along Highway 179 to stop. It was conceived by artist and Sedona resident Marguerite Brunswig Staude as a memorial to her deceased parents and was completed in 1956. The chapel is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Visitors are asked to wear a face mask and practice social distancing.

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