May 2011 by B-21 Wine Company

The Buzz

Est. 1948

B-21 Fine Wine & S p irit s Guid e t o Win e s f ro m Aro und the Wo rld

The B-21 journey begins...

Circa 1948: Mom & Pop on the road to Florida.

May 2011

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO US! This month B-21 reaches the ripe age of 63 but we have no thoughts of retiring. Like fine wine we get better with age. That why we have such admiration for the small, high quality wineries: We’re family-run too, now in our fourth generation, and deeply attached to our terroir for more than 60 years.

1940s — BIRTH OF THE BEES

1980s — WINE LEADERSHIP

While Helen Forrest sang “Busy as a Bee” with Benny Goodman, Mark and Helen Frassrand worked at Chrysler in Detroit and dreamed of their own business. They were also customers at the nearby Green Gables Beer Garden and Package and in 1948 became its owners. They renamed it B-21 with a logo fashioned after the war time bomber; it also meant, as it does today, that customers must B at least 21 years old.

Wine became big business; sales doubled from 1980 to 1983 and Bob put B-21 in the vanguard and set industry standards. He traveled the world to taste and import the best, required refrigerated shipping, and conducted massive storewide tastings. In 1983 B-21 mailed its first newsletters and computerized its sales and purchase records. By 1985 sales exceeded $6 million, the highest volume in Florida.

1950s — FLORIDA CALLING In 1950, young Mark Jr. rode his war time production Harley-Davidson to Florida and by 1951 the whole family planned to move to Florida. So long, Chrysler; goodbye, Detroit. They sold B-21, packed up, headed to Florida and settled in Dunedin. Before long they bought the A&M Package Store on Main Street and later moved to Alternate 19. By then Mark Jr. and brother Ron worked full time with Mom and Pop.

1960s — EXPANSION YEARS The B-21 name returned in 1962 to a new store in Dunedin and then other branches, including Tarpon Springs in 1966 as Mark Jr. expanded energetically. He moved his family to Tarpon Springs as that store became the focus and plans moved ahead for a new centralized warehouse and offices in Tarpon to boost B-21's buying power.

1970s — CONSOLIDATION New buildings in Tarpon Springs were finished in 1970. Shrewd buying, sharp margins, and increased sales required still more room. A B-21 lounge recalling the Detroit days, was added and the other locations were sold. While at Tulane University, Bob Sprentall, the son of Mark Jr. and Louise, and B-21's third generation, began his studies of wine. He joined the store in 1979 and his avocation for wine became vocation; within a year he was in charge of all operations.

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1990s — TIME OF CHANGE Great changes shook the wine industry and the B-21 family. Mom and Pop passed away in the early 1990’s and Mark Jr. died several years later, yet the store kept expanding and succeeding. Market Watch, The Wine Spectator's trade magazine, named B-21 a Top Ten Retailer in 1991. B-21 soon added Steve Rayman, now the store's wine director and Italian expert, and in 1997, one of the first wine websites. The lounge was converted to cold storage for growing shipments of fine wine.

2000s — A NEW CENTURY Fabulous '00s in France started a string of great vintages across the wine world: France again in '05 and '09, while Italy, California, Washington, Germany, Argentina, and Australia posted great wines throughout the decade. Wine went to the movies in Sideways, Mondovino, and Bottle Shock. At B-21, excitement grew in person and on line. After graduation from FSU and a stint teaching in Thailand, Shannon Sprentall become the fourth generation to join the staff. The crew expanded with French expert Rhett Bieletti, Spanish specialist Summer Martin, West Coast afficionado Shawn Reynolds, veteran critic Chris Sherman, with organizational whiz Justin Hammer in charge.

2010s — JUST STARTING The revamped website is now a sales force for 37 states and in Florida, a discreet white van delivers temperature controlled wines to customers throughout the state. And you now have the new full color Buzz in your hands!

TASTE THE DECADES: 1946 Rivesaltes Chateau Villargeil Muscat 99 1959 Bertani Amarone 39999 1966 Maison Leroy Pommard 1er Cru Clos Micot 31999 1970 Grahams Vintage Port 24999 1982 Salon Blanc de Blanc Champagne 110000 1986 Chateau Margaux 69900 1997 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 4499 2002 Dom Perignon Andy Warhol 14999 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti 1499 99

Tarpon Springs, Circa 1966

POP QUIZ: WINE ON ICE. What bottle would I stick in the cooler for the beach, the boat, or the backyard?

Steve Rayman: 2009 Johannishof Riesling Charta

When the weather is as beautiful as it is now the urge to get outdoors is the strongest. If I’m at the trailhead, in the yard, or at the beach I want something thirst quenching, refreshing, flavorful, and low in alcohol. Young German Riesling is my go- to. Refreshing acidity, slight sweetness, actual terroir, and great versatility with food make this perfect wine for my cooler. My #1 choice this season is the 2009 Johannishof Riesling Charta for 15.99. Its ripe, racy and very hard to resist. 90 points.

Summer Martin: 2010 Crios Torrontes

This Argentinean wine is the perfect dry, crisp, white wine to completely refresh and satisfy you on a hot summer day. 2010 is their best vintage yet, and its laced with delicate tropical fruit flavors and flowery aromas. Perfect with seafood, and best yet it’s a screw top so when you are out on the boat and forget your corkscrew its all good! 90 points and two thumbs up from me, Parker likes it too at 91!

Rhett Beiletti: 2009 Saarstein Pinot Blanc

Fully ripe without any excess though, this wine is straight ahead and reflective at the same time; pear and apple fruits, moderate acidity and a nice mineral touch. Fresh, focused, pure and expressive, this will be a staple at my house this summer. 89RB.

Party like it’s 1948!

63rd ANNIVERSARY PARTY Saturday, May 7 1pm - 5pm

Pommery Champagne Tasting 1pm - 5pm Early Times Mint Julep’s 12pm - 3pm Ribbon Cutting Ceremony 2pm Enjoy live music, a 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Ragtop, and food from Currents, MMMM Delicious Cupcakes, and Cody’s Original Roadhouse... and so much more!

Chris Sherman: The Chook Sparkling Shiraz

A crisp dry rose is a fail-safe choice but I went farther down the road for something red and almost sweet to put a surprise on ice: Sparkling shiraz. It’s a mad trick only the Aussies would try but great fun, remarkably rich, big with cherries and black fruit, almost a bubbly kirsch. The chook is made by Ben Riggs (of Penny’s Hill and Mr. Riggs) and the galvo gang at Woop Woop. It starts the afternoon with a pop and will play happily with ribs, steak, or BBQ chook (chicken to us). If it’s too stout for you, it’s strong enough to pour over ice. Hey, Oz is as hot as Florida, they’d understand.

Shannon Sprentall: 2009 Kung Fu Girl Riesling

Rockstar Charles Smith has implemented a totally new world concept with this Girl. An American single vineyard, dry Riesling similar to a classic Mosel? That’s right! 100% Riesling from Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes area of Columbia Valley, Washington. Lemony in color with crisp lime and green apple aromatics. On the tongue, more lime, wet stone minerality with hints of pear and apricot. This Girl is vibrant, expressive, and edgy!

Shawn Reynolds: 2009 Hall Sauvignon Blanc

We were asked by the powers that be to select a “cooler” wine for this month’s Buzz.“Be a lot cooler if you did…” I digress. The animal that I am, I packed some Hall for a recent kayak marathon on the St. Johns River. Glasses? We don’t need no stinking glasses. This stuff is killer straight from the bottle. Fresh, crisp, and pretty, it pops with ripe peach, nectarine, and a touch of lemon zest. One of the best Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted this year. On or off the water. 91+SDR, 91RAS, 91WE, 91W&S.

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BOURGOGNE FOR EVERYONE

by Rhett Beiletti

Making Burgundy Affordable and Easy!

Bourgogne is French for Burgundy, both the wine region and the wine-- La Bourgogne the region and le bourgogne the wine is Bourgogne is all about 2 grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is that simple. These wines have a certain mystique, but they also encounter misconceptions: that they are expensive and that labeling is confusing. Non! Of course the wines can be expensive, but they do not have to be. We have many outstanding wines under $20 made with care and French style that we can recommend. Pinot and Chardonnay – you know the grapes, we know the wines, please ask us for recommendations. Here are a couple:

“The Rock” at Solutré-Pouilly

LOUIS LATOUR

Founded with the purchase of red wine vineyards in Aloxe-Corton in 1767, it was some time before Louis Latour III revolutionized the hill of Corton pulling up red vines and planting Chardonnay for the first time. That was in the late 1800s and the beginning of Corton-Charlemagne, after phylloxera had savaged the vineyards. A long time innovator, Maison Louis Latour pioneered single varietal labeling with the Chardonnay wines from Ardeche and established their own cooperage, making barrels for themselves and such wineries as Plumpjack, Peter Michael, Turley and Flowers.

2009 Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuisse 1699

A white wine giant in the world of Burgundy wines delivering value to the glass, Louis Latour proves that Pouilly-Fuisse is one of the most famous regions in France for good reason: high quality to price ratio… and it is Chardonnay! The 2009 LLPF is rich and supple, not at all overpowering, owed to the decision to age in all stainless steel (after barrel fermentation). Ripe with touches of butter and apple, but not apple butter, and luscious, ripe and honeyed fruit qualities, the wine is not complicated but it is satisfying. It is textbook Pouilly-Fuisse, and the price is right. $16.99! 89 Points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21

DOMAINE RAPET

Domaine Rapet is a presence in the village of PernandVergelesses and grows red and white grapes and makes wine from the full range of appellations: Bourgogne, Village, 1er and Grand Cru. The reds from Pernand express brightness and accuracy and go towards precision, especially in the 1er bottlings. A favorite of mine in the world of red Bourgogne is Rapet’s entry level, made entirely of Pinot Noir (mais oui!), is the Bourgogne ‘En Bully’, named so coming from a high point where once unrewarded work was forced on the peasants by the lord of the land (the Bully!).

2009 Domaine Rapet Bourgogne ‘En Bully’ $1999

A beauty transcending the simple “Bourgogne” designation. From a single site, a “Clos” in fact, and almost a monopole (the only other owner does not produce wine.) Shows hallmarks of the 2009 vintage: the acids are low and the fruit precocious. If you buy $20 Pinot Noir from anywhere, I recommend this without hesitation. Purely pleasurable with 4 | B-21.com

At the Domaine with Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Vincent Rapet this past January

ripe cherries and raspberries, this wine is completely open for business now and requiring no patience at all. 89 Points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21

BIG

WORLD SMALL BUDGET

WHITES 2009 Marchetti Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche) 1299 Italy is a great source for compelling white wines at very reasonable prices. Marchetti’s Verdicchio is concentrated and complex with a nice mineral lift. Staff Scores: 90SR, 89+RAS

What the critics say: It could be said that Verdicchio is a thinking person’s Pinot Grigio. Refreshing citrus fruits, playful acidity and complex minerality are the hallmarks of this varietal, and when well-made, it is one of the best whites in the Mediterranean world.

2009 Tamellini Soave (Veneto) 1399 (10% off btc) One of only 20 growers bottling Soave today and one of the very best. 100% Garganega from some of the best hillside vineyards in area Staff scores: 91SDR, 90SS, 90SR

What the critics say: Readers will have a hard time finding a better wine for the money than Tamellini's 2009 Soave. Beautiful varietal notes of apricots, honey and wild flowers come together on a mid-weight frame, showing lovely clarity and a focused, energetic finish. 88WA

Some poor souls think you have to spend $50 or $100 for good wine. Hogwash. You don't have to spend even $20. by Steve Rayman

REDS 2006 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva (Sardinia) 999 Pure fruit, excellent balance and a notably healthy grape for its high concentration of Resveratrol. Staff scores: 89SR, 89RAS

What the critics say: Dried cherries, crushed flowers and spices linger on the ethereal finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. 89WA

2008 Falesco Vitiano Rosso (Umbria) 899 Vitiano perfectly combines Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese into a full-fruited luscious red. Staff scores: 88SR What the critics say: Racy, sleek wine that impresses with its layers of perfumed red cherries and sweet toasted oak. The wine offers terrific clarity and precision in a slightly taut, focused style… 89WA

2009 Boschis Dolcetto di Dogliani Pianezzo (Piedmont) 1499

2007 Santa Lucia Melograno (Apulia) 1399 Pure ripe, southern Italian expression of sun and soil. Bright, ripe and satisfying. More reds need this originality and sheer yumminess. Staff scores: 92SDR, 90RAS, 90SR, 90RB What the critics say: Offers an absolutely delicious mouthful of wine bursting with berries, flowers and subtle herbs. This cask-aged, jammy red delivers quite a bit of pleasure in a hearty, slightly rustic – but pleasing – style. Best of all, it is a terrific value. 88WA

Boschis is one of the stars of Dolcetto and this modestly priced entry level Dolcetto delivers in a huge way. It’s richness complexity and tautness is a wonder for fifteen bucks. Staff scores: 90SR

Rich, chocolaty and absolutely luscious. Staff scores: 90+RB, 90SR

What the critics say: This comes from the Dogliani area south of Barolo, where the calcareous, clayey soils are perfectly suited to this varietal. The Boschis family has been specialized in producing it since the 1960s and are true experts, bringing us a unique Dolcetto featuring red tending to black fruits, with a luscious vinous quality and velvety finish – Michael Skurnik Wines

What the critics say: Smoke, tar, licorice and amarena cherries are some of the nuances that emerge from the 2007 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne. Clean, mineral notes frame the long, silky finish. This overachieving, juicy Barbera is totally delicious and a great value as well, in fact, it is one of Italy’s finest wines for under $20. 90WA

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne (Piedmont) 1599

2007 Viticcio Bere (Tuscany) 1399

This fantastic blend offers great super-Tuscan flavors at a Chianti-like price. Alessandro Landini offers this tremendous value for a song. Staff scores: 91SR, 91SDR, 91+SM

What the critics say: "There's a lot of Cabernet character on the nose and palate, with dried herbs and black currant. Full and very rich on the palate, with chewy yet fruit-coated tannins. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.” 90WS B-21.com | 5

V I N I TA LY 2 0 1 1

by Steve Rayman

How to survive a tradeshow. Steve Rayman is more than B-21's expert on Italian wines. He's also a champion survivor of VinItaly, one of the most strenuous marathons in wine: 285,000 square feet of exhibition space, 4,000 exhibitors, 153,000 attendees, 2500 journalists, 20,000 wines. How does he do it? No way to taste them all. Must have a plan and stick to it or risk being overwhelmed. Here are some tips: Stay super- hydrated and don’t imbibe on the flight. Your gastric system will be tested by exotic dishes and an insane quantity of wines upon arrival. You don’t want to start out behind. Despite considerable experience, I made this error and paid for it last year. Dehydration led to gastric distress and I was down for 24 hours. It sucked bad.

Sleep if you can on the plane. For light sleepers like me this is difficult, but I don’t worry about it too much either. Just expect to stagger like a zombie on your first day. Hmm. Sounds kind of fun actually.

Eat a hearty breakfast each day. Tasting on an empty stomach leads to disaster.

Spit every wine. I’ve seen some try not to. They may make it half the day before collapsing. Not fun to be around. I can’t imagine what their notes look like.

Eat often during the day. If you can’t break for lunch, then snack. Most tasting stations will have cheese and crackers, and sometimes prosciutto. Tasting 100 or so young wines will wear you down. Record notes on each wine. Take lots of pictures. These are the most important souvenirs. I used to take little notebooks that fit in my pocket. Now I use my Blackberry and love it. Most wines only get a score on a 100-point scale. So it is very shorthand. If the wine is particularly good I add a back story and tidbits on yield or site. With the Blackberry I can easily email it to myself and everyone else and it’s backed up on our B-21 email server.

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Stay hydrated. Absolutely critical.

Try not to stay out all night every night... That may be the toughest one of all. ; )

Espresso, Cappuccino, Birre.

NAVIGATING THE HILLS OF BAROLO

by Steve Rayman

Let Brovia, Vietti drive you from cru to cru to taste their differences Barolo is one of the great wines of Italy. Maybe the greatest. That greatness originates in the vineyards, very specific ones. The top Barolo vineyards, or “crus”, vary in style based on the soils from which they originate. Almost 90% of Barolo is produced in five villages: on the east side of the DOCG Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba and on the west side La Morra and Barolo. All of the great vineyards are within these villages, the most important areas in the Barolo DOCG. Two of the best producers of single-vineyard Barolos, Vietti and Brovia, have vines in several villages. See what differences are revealed in their 2006 Barolos. Same great vintage. Different vineyards.

EAST SIDE POWERHOUSES The east side villages of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’ Alba lie in the Serralunga Valley and consist mainly of Helvetian soil that often produces Barolo that is austere when young and powerful at any age. These usually require 10-15 years to soften and expand. These wines have rich bouquets and typically a velvety texture which sometimes mask the incredible tannins. This is my favorite Barolo village, both to visit and for the wines it produces. The vineyards are steep and dramatic on foot. It just feels “grand cru”. BROVIA’S 2006 BAROLO GARBLET SUE (sometimes called Bricco Fiasco) is massively tannic and muscular. Bright red fruit lies below the surface with elements of iron, incense, and tar. Beautiful Barolo to age. 95 points. BROVIA’S 2006 BAROLO ROCCHE is perfumed and powerful with sweet roses and classic tar aromas and flavors. This may be my top wine from Brovia. 96 points. Vietti’s 2006 Rocche is even better exhibiting similar aromas and flavors, but is perfectly defined. The finish is incredibly long. This is typically Vietti’s best wine every year. 98 points.

CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA

There is more limestone here and the wines are powerful, tannic and age worthy. The most full-bodied Barolos, they feature depth, concentration, and great staying power. BROVIA’S 2006 BAROLO CA MIA has incredibly complex and alluring aromas. Minutes can be spent just swirling and sniffing its bouquet of fruit and dried flowers that continues to evolve in the glass and promises longevity in the cellar. It is more alluring now than Brovia’s Rocche and is built to last, though I suspect in 10 years, Rocche will be slightly better. 95 points. Vietti’s 2006 Barolo Lazzarito is huge and tannic with incredible minerals, licorice, tar, and backward fruit. The finish is already incredibly long, but this is built to age. 96 points.

WEST SIDE FINESSE The west side encompasses the plainly named Central Valley and includes the villages of Barolo and La Morra. There is more clay in the soils here which results in wine with highly-perfumed aromas and velvety textures. Tannins are lower on this side and these wines can be enjoyed sooner, typically within 8-10 years. La Morra features the most perfumed, graceful, feminine and aromatic Barolos and can be quite supple and seductive early. Already, VIETTI’S 2006 BAROLO BRUNATE is a stunningly beautiful wine. The aromas are heady and classic with floral, fruit, mineral and earth elements all melding together. It has power and grace and gobs of fruit. 97 points.

LA MORRA

The villages of Barolo fascinate me. The more you explore their differences, the more you enjoy their wines.

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19 750ml

Fam ily P ortra it 20 11

“The finest Rosso I’ve ever had [hint: the 2009 Brunello will be a beauty]. At Canalicchio di Sopra the Rosso clearly gets as much attention and care as the Brunello. This is a handsome wine, lots of aroma and elegantly structured. The kind of authentic Italian wines that continue to wow me.” - Robert Sprentall, B-21 Proprietor

Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino

CUVEE MAY:

ho me

Born: 2009 Hometown: Montalcino, Italy Parents: Sangiovese grosso; clay and marl Education: Slavonian Oak GPA: 92.5 (92-93RAS) Hobbies: Hiking the hillsides and Renaissance towns Favorite siblings: Brunello, grappa, olive oil My Song: You Must Have Been a Beautiful Baby Best friends: Primo Pacenti, Pier Luigi Rapacciolo, Gambero Rosso Values: Authenticity, family, patience ($19.99)

ya k c a b

Lemelson Winery

Grapes in Cristom Vineyards

T A K E T H E O R E G O N T R A I L by Shawn Reynolds TOUTED AS A “PROMISED TO NEW BURGUNDY LAND” of the “flowing milk and honey” ilk, the fertile Willamette Valley was the destination of choice for rugged 19th century travelers of the Oregon Trail. 2,000 miles of unpaved, rutted paths on leaf springs and wooden wheels? And I complain about the I-4 interchange during rush hour. We trace the first appearance of grapes in Oregon to the 1840s, though the Beaver State didn’t hit its stride for well over a century. In 1961, Richard Sommer was the first of a small group of UC Davis grads to defect from California on a quest to prove that Burgundian and Alsatian varietals could thrive in Oregon. Vindication arrived at Paris’s 1979 Gault-Millau French Wine Olympiades during which Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Pinot Noir took best Pinot honors against France’s finest. At the 1985 Burgundy Challenge, experts were unable to discern between the Pinots of Oregon and Burgundy, scoring a number of American wines over their French counterparts. In the late 80s, Burgundy’s esteemed Drouhin family acquired a 100acre plot in Willamette Valley and established Domaine Drouhin. One thing is certain: Beaver State Burgundy is for real.

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CRISTOM VINEYARDS

After attending Oregon’s 1991 International Pinot Celebration, Paul Gerrie schlepped his family from the East Coast to the Pacific Northwest to start Cristom Vineyards. Ironically, the Old World techniques Gerrie picked up while visiting France earned Cristom the distinction as Decanter’s “Best New World Red.” The 65-acre spread consists of eight plots that include his “six ladies” vineyards, each of which bears the name of a family matriarch. Between Gerrie’s reliance on terroir to produce his wines and winemaker Steve Doerner’s philosophy to “optimize what nature – the vineyard – provides,” Cristom enjoys a reputation as one of Willamette’s premier wineries.

2008 CRISTOM PINOT NOIR Jefferson Cuvee 99

2008 CRISTOM PINOT NOIR Louise, Jessie, & Marjorie

2007 CRISTOM PINOT NOIR Sommers Reserve 99

PRE-ORDERS DUE 6/16/2011 All 93 points 99 Wine Advocate!

90ST, 90WA

91WA, 90ST, 90CG

LEMELSON VINEYARDS

Lemelson Vineyards is the brainchild of environmental lawyer Eric Lemelson, whose goal was to fashion Pinot Noir of the finest quality in a state-of-the-art, aesthetically pleasing facility that asserts minimal impact on its surroundings. From seven Certified Organic estate vineyards in Yamhill-Carlton, Dundee Hills and the Chehalem Mountains, winemaker Anthony King gently crafts Lemelson’s collection of cool climate varietals, separately vinifying, aging, and bottling individual lots for maximum expression and diversity of character. Lemelson has become a quiet favorite at B-21, with Thea’s Selection proving perennially one of the best values in Burgundian-styled Oregon Pinot.

2008 LEMELSON PINOT NOIR Thea’s Selection (Willamette) 99 92SDR, 91WA

2008 LEMELSON PINOT NOIR Stermer Vineyard (Willamette) 99 92WA, 90ST

WINE FOR ALL MANKIND by Shannon Sprentall I discovered MAN Vintners a few years ago thanks to Platter’s South African Wine Guide. For anyone who wants to know South Africa, get to know Platter's. It was started in 1978 by wine lovers and print journalists John and Erica Platter after reading Hugh Johnson's ground-breaking Pocket Wine Book, and remains South Africa’s best-selling annual wine manual. It contains everything you want and need to know about South Africa’s wine scene featuring hundreds of producers, negociants, brands, and thousands of individual wines presented in a fun and entertaining format. MAN Vintners channels that same approach. MAN began with three friends and an idea to make a wine that they would love to buy. Good quality, excellent value, and cool/modern packaging.

However, there's another version that's more believable IMHO (in my humble opinion). The women wanted good wine for happy hour and couldn’t find any, a dilemma I encounter often. They asked their husbands to go out to get some and not to come back empty handed. Without luck they decided they had to figure out how to make good quality vino being the pleasers they are. The wives loved it so much they slapped their initials on it and MAN was born.

2010 MAN Chenin Blanc 799

Cool aromas of melon, kiwi, lime zest, dusty herbs and licorice. Juicy and densely packed, with a bit of sweetness balanced by brisk acidity. A crisp, clean mid-weight with a dusty texture and a ripe nectarine flavor on the lively finish. 88ST

2010 MAN Chardonnay 799

Fresh nectarine, lime and pungent brown spices on the nose. Juicy and just off-dry, with lovely intensity and lift to the apple, spice and floral flavors. Very subtle use of oak. 88ST

2009 MAN Pinotage 799

Besides the obligatory cabernet and Chardonnay, MAN has bottled South Africa’s signature favorites. One is Chenin Blanc, which South African’s call steen and make with a crisper edge than the chenins of Vouvray and beyond. The other is Pinotage, a red that is wholly their own, a pioneer’s With the project under way, the friends needed a name and a brilliant hybrid of Pinot Noir and cinsault that survives the heat to make a plummy idea to keep peace with the wives as the project consumed all of their time. wine that is more Rhone than Burgundy. The brand is bold, gutsy and So with the initials of their wives Marie, Anette, and Nicky… MAN was reflective of South Africa’s extreme terroir in the Coastal region. born. I'm not alone. Steve Tanzer has given ratings quite rare for $7.99 bottles!

Dark berries, plum and a whiff of wood smoke on the nose. At once silky and juicy, with good intensity to the plum and mocha flavors. 87ST

2009 MAN Shiraz 799

Liqueur-like blueberry and exotic spices on the very ripe nose. Fat, sweet and lush, but with harmonious acidity giving shape to the cassis, blueberry and mocha flavors. Finishes broad, with a fine dusting of tannins. 88ST

2009 MAN Cabernet Sauvignon 799

Crushed blackberry, blueberry, licorice and smoky oak on the nose, with a whiff of flowers. Supple, broad and easy to drink, with an enticing dark berry sweetness nicely buffered by lively herb and flint notes. 88ST

The wives of MAN

MAN Vintners’ Vineyards B-21.com | 11

THE MINT JULEP by Shawn Reynolds The term “julep” regards a sweet drink, usually taken for the administration of medication; its roots lie in Persia with early variants made from water and rose petals. The julep made its way to America some time before the turn of the 19th century where it began its transformation into the potion we know today. Churchill Downs began its endorsement of the minty concoction during the Kentucky Derby in 1938. If you’ve never tried one, you’re missing out. They keys are crushed ice and fresh spearmint. If you’re serious, you’ll need some pewter tumblers as well.

MINT JULEP • • • •

SIMPLE SYRUP RECIPE:

2 oz. Bourbon 1 tablespoon simple syrup* Mint sprigs Crushed ice

• 1 cup water • 1 cup sugar • 1 bunch fresh mint sprigs

Crush a few mint leaves in the bottom of an 8 oz. glass then fill with crushed ice. Add one tablespoon of simple syrup and one tablespoon of water. Add 2 ounces of bourbon. Stir gently until glass frosts. Garnish with a fresh mint sprig, sip, enjoy.

Combine sugar and water. Boil for 5 minutes without stirring. Pour mix over a handful of mint leaves, and gently crush the mint with a spoon. Refrigerate overnight in a closed jar. Remove mint leaves, but continue to refrigerate.

NOTHING BUT MONEY IS SWEETER THAN HONEY by Shawn Reynolds

“’Well,’ said Pooh, ‘what I like best...’ and then he had to stop and think. Because although eating honey was a very good thing to do, there was a moment just before you began to eat it which was better than when you were, but he didn't know what it was called.” -A.A. Milne The House At Pooh Corner

It takes more than two million flowers to produce a single pound of honey. Man’s quest to procure this sweet bounty began over 10,000 years ago as evidenced in a cave painting in Spain, which shows two women on a ladder collecting honey from high in a tree. Honey is the only food that will never spoil; archaeologists found crysSPIRITS tallized samples from the tomb of King Tut still edible. Christian Brothers Honey Liqueur �� 999 Originally exclusive to the wealthy, honey eventually oozed into the ranks of the common where its uses spanned a broad spectrum. The ancients implemented honey as a sweetener, an elixir, an aphrodisiac, and even as currency. Due to the inability of microorganisms to exist in its viscous clutch, honey is used as a preservative for produce, ham, and poultry. Some historians posit that Alexander the Great was mummified in honey-soaked linens.

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“Honey” is a term of endearment. Spouses call each other honey. Men regard comely females as honeys. Whatever your background, honey likely rests in a positive cradle in the recesses of your emotions lazily wedged somewhere between puppies and sunsets. Check out our assortment of honey-based offerings. And remember, as Benjamin Franklin asserted, “Nothing but money is sweeter than honey.”

Evan Williams Honey Reserve.............. 1299 Rain Honey Mango Melon Vodka �� 1599 Seagrams 7 Dark Honey....................... 1699 Krupnik Honey...................................... 1799 Wild Turkey American Honey................ 1999 Jack Daniels Honey.............................. 1999 Barenjager Honey................................. 2999

MEAD

Chaucer’s Mead.................................... 1399 Iqhilika Coffee Mead............................. 1999 Iqhilika Chili Mead............................... 1999 Iqhilika Fig Mead.................................. 1999 Empire T&W Royal Mead Honey �� 2199

BEER

JW Dundees Honey..........................6pk 749 Honey Amber Rose...........................6pk 799

Just in time for the Kentucky Derby.

by Shawn Reynolds

Microsoft, the NFL, Harley-Davidson, Levi’s, Rock ‘n’ Roll, McDonald’s, and drive-through liquor stores… they’re all ours, all American. So, too, is bourbon. In 1964 Congress formally recognized bourbon as a “distinctive product of the United States,” coining the phrase “America’s Native Spirit,” and established a number of rules to differentiate it from other whiskies; among them: 51% of the grain employed must be corn.

THE STINGER

B O U R B O N : A M E R I C A’ S N A T I V E S P I R I T

So how did bourbon come to be? Western Pennsylvania played host to early Scotch-Irish settlers who imported traditional whiskey distillation techniques, crafting spirits for personal consumption and as supplemental income. To better chip away at a national debt accrued during the American Revolution, the Continental Congress levied taxes upon distillers, many of whom refused to comply, prompting a “Whiskey Rebellion.” To discourage future unrest, the federal government incentivized the relocation of stubborn distillers to western Virginia, a large expanse we now call Kentucky. Virginia governor Thomas Jefferson promised sixty acres to anyone willing to cultivate “native corn.” Ambitious settlers surged west of the Alleghenies, founding enormous districts such as Kentucky’s Bourbon County, its name a nod to French support during the Revolution. Back then there were no interstate highways, so locals employed the nearby Ohio River for the transport of goods. Folks soon realized that corn was too bulky for efficient sale and began adding excess crop to the grain mix used in the manufacture of whiskey. Distilling surplus corn into spirits not only made it easier to convey, it created a vastly more marketable product in high-traffic ports. Eventually, authorities subdivided Bourbon County into smaller parcels, but “In the air-conditioned distillers continued to stencil “Old Bourbon” onto casks…and lounge I met a man America’s corn whiskey had a name. Most of us on the wine staff are pretty big bourbon fans. If I recall correctly – and I may not, because I don’t recollect much from that evening - the Van Winkle Shannon shared at last winter’s bonfire didn’t make it too far into the night. So, as a nod to our favorite non-wine quaff, we feature RIP VAN WINKLE’S 12-YEAR-OLD SPECIAL RESERVE, a bourbon so spectacular that it earned 98-points from both the Beverage tasting Institute and International Review of Spirits. The folks at Van Winkle age their bourbon in charred mountain oak barrels. Extreme seasonal temperature fluctuations draw the whiskey back and forth through layers in the oak, which imparts coloration, augments flavors and texture, and blesses the Van Winkle with a smooth, silky character. From the brilliant amberorange Special Reserve rise spires of toffee, vanilla cake, roasted nuts, and Christmas spice. Flavors of fresh vanilla bean, caramel, and spice precede notes of white pepper and an almost tobacco-like dryness. At 90 or so proof the 12-Year is approachable and enjoyable without adulteration by ice, water or - bite your tongue - Pepsi. Gently splash in a snifter in place of your favorite X.O. or sip from a tumbler during the game. Whatever your method, there are few options as able to please as Rip Van Winkle’s 12-year-old Special Reserve.

Van Winkle 12yr Special Reserve 90.4° $6899 98 pts. Beverage Tasting Institute 98 pts. International Review of Spirits 97 pts. Shawn Reynolds, B-21

from Houston who said his name was something or other — ‘but just call me Jimbo’ — and he was here to get it on. ‘I’m ready for anything, by God! Anything at all. Yeah, what are you drinkin’?’

I ordered a Margarita with ice, but he wouldn’t hear of it. ‘Naw, naw… what the hell kind of drink is that for Kentucky Derby time? What’s wrong with you, boy?’ He grinned and winked at the bartender. ‘Goddamn, we gotta educate this boy, get him some good whiskey…’” -Hunter S. Thompson “The Kentucky Derby is Decadent and Depraved” B-21.com | 13

VICTORIA ORDOÑEZ

by Chris Sherman

The proudest discovery the Ordonez family delivers to B-21 is from their own backyard; the wines of Malaga. British export wine trade. Yet from the beginning of Jorge's importing career, Victoria told us last month, they wanted to restore its good name. “It is one of the oldest wine regions in Spain, the first denimination of origin,” she said. They knew it could be again and found vineyards in the hills behind the city.

When Victoria Ordonez and her brother Jorge grew up in the port city of Malaga in the 1970s, its once-great wines had fallen into neglect and despair. The fine Moscatel (a.k.a. Moscato or Muscat d'Alexandria) wines had been ruined by too much sugar by the

In the last decade they have made good on that promise, making new Moscatos, both luxurious sweet and crisply dry. Jorge's main interest was in making the traditional sweet wines in new handsome style called Seleccion Especial, while the dry was Victoria's idea. A trained doctor and hospital administrator, she now spends full-time caring for the Moscatos to preserve the delicacy of the dry Botani and the polished jewels of classic Moscatel.

While Spain's reputation focuses on its red wines, Victoria believes its whites merit as much praise. She has now shown Moscato has the wide range of fine Riesling, starting with the 2009 BOTANI ($13.99), more refreshing than a grand cru Alsatian and NO. 1 SELECCION ($19.99) for the acidity of a full ripe young Spatlese. NO.2 THE VICTORIA ($35.99) is my favorite, more of an Auslese, late-harvest honeyed but so juicy it's elegant and light on its feet; the NO. 3 OLD VINES (59.99) is lolling with rich fruit. She also travels to far Galicia to oversee what may be the country's best Albariño, LA CAÑA (‘09 - $12.99), which the family owns.

YECLA & JUMILLA Get to know these neighbors. Malaga isn’t the only place that has the Ordoñez family’s interest. Jumilla is keeping Jorge busy too with his labels like 2008 JUAN GIL (14.99) and the cult wine EL NIDO ($119.99) made by Australian star Chris Ringland. Jumilla (pronounced WHO-MEEYA) is a tiny little region south east of Madrid near the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. They mainly grow Monastrell, known to the South of France as Mourvedre, and a key ingredient in Chateauneufdu-Pape. Being by the coast it is very dry, with long hot summers and sandy soils (reminds me of Florida, perhaps we should grow Monastrell?) But one thing we don’t have in Florida are cold winters and cool nights which together with the heat make it perfect for this

by Summer Martin finicky grape. Jorge Ordonez isn’t the only one who has caught on. Our friend, and Spanish importer extraordinaire Eric Solomon has found the 90-point (WA) 2009 CASA CASTILLO ($9.99) and others like the Castaño family’s ALTOS DEL CUADRADO ($11.99). Next door lies an even tinier place called Yecla. Both regions are known for producing predominantly Monastrell grapes, and they enjoy the same weather all year round. Yecla is surrounded by the Sierra Salinas mountains, which gave the Castaños a great reason to call their gorgeous 91-point (WA) Monastrell Blend

“MIRA SALINAS” ($19.99) which literally means “look at the Salinas”. Solomon found this wine and others the Castaño family makes like the 2008 MO ($9.99), a beautiful blend of Monastrell, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. Keep an eye on these two neighbors, because they continue to grow in quantity but most importantly quality. Who knows, maybe this will become the next Priorat? We’ll see.

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12-3pm: Sauza Tequila and Stag Bourbon 1-4pm: Margaritaville / Cointreau

B-21’s 63rd Anniversary Party 1-5pm 12-3pm: Early Times’ and Knob Creek Mint Juleps 1-5pm: Pommery Champagne Tasting

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1-5pm: California Stunners including Quintessa, Nickel & Nickel, Belle Glos, Duckhorn, Etude and Orin Swift.

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Winemaker Tasting with Susana Balbo 2pm - 5pm

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21 12 on 21! 1-5pm: Some of the best we tasted in Italy including Passopisciaro, Tenuta di Trinoro, Cepparello... 12-3pm: Margaritaville and Cointreau

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Mother’s Day Salute!

MEET SUSANA BALBO AT B-21 Winemaker for Susana Balbo, Crios, & Benmarco Thursday, May 26 from 2pm to 5pm compliments of B-21.

B-21’s Shannon Sprentall with Susana Balbo in Argentina

Many winemakers speak of their wines as children. Only Argentina’s Susana Balbo calls them exactly that, her “Crios”, Spanish for offspring. Balbo has many, for she was Latin America’s pioneer winemaker, arguably the mother of its most innovative quality wines, certainly the creator of modern Torrontes (an ambrosia of fruit salad!) Her reputation goes far beyond South America; wineries have hired her as a consultant in France, Italy, Australia and the U.S. as well. In her native Argentina she heped raise the wines of Nicolas Catena and now her own Dominio de la Plata, where she makes Susana Balbo wines, Benmarco and the Crios line. And Balbo is also an everyday mom, an active, loving parent too, which shows in all her wines. The playful art on the Crios labels, are from Mayan art and symbolizes the partnership of a mother and her two children, Balbo, her son and daughter.

On her other wines the labels show figures found on an old necklace made by Huarpes, one of the primary native tribes in Mendoza: They represent the women’s reproductive role in society, and cherishes the woman as the sacred link between the past, present and future. As a winemaker, she sees the connection in the vineyards (the past), the winemaking (the present) and the finished wines (the future). Within the winery’s “family” of wines, the afforably priced Crios wines are the children. Balbo sees them as quite “grown up” to the quality and maturity as her more expensive signature-label wines, Given their youth, they are to be enjoyed while still young and vibrant. The 2009 CRIOS MALBEC is $8 less than 2008 SIGNATURE VERSION MALBEC and almost as adult. However the signature has acquired spicy sophistication -- and an extra point from Wine Advocate (91WA).

Come meet Susana Balbo and get a taste of her lovely family.