The Buzz
Est. 1948
June 2011
B-21 Fine Wine & S p irit s Guid e t o Win e s f ro m Aro und the Wo rld
ยกDRINK IN RIOJA!
Traditional bodegas. Modern architecture. Tempranillo at it's best.
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REMร REZ DE GANUZA Rioja, Spain (pg. 4)
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THINGS TO DO IN RIOJA! Most importantly, visit some of the world’s best wineries: Muga, 1. appointments La Rioja Alta, Campo Viejo, and more. Schedule no more than 2-3 per day and, during one stop, enjoy a traditional Bodega lunch.
tapas crawl on Logroño’s famous Calle Laurel is a must! Jamón 2. Aiberico, pulpo, patatas bravas, and croquetas are delicioso. Laguardia, a walled village perched atop a hill in Rioja Alavesa 3. Visit that houses two churches, including Santa María de Palacio, which has one of the best-preserved gothic doorways in Spain. Laguardia is a great spot for picture taking, a unique corner that transports you back in time to an ancient civilization.
rel in Calle Lau
Logroño
If you get to Bilbao, spend a few hours at the Guggenheim 4. amazing museum, the building itself an architectural masterpiece, for an mix of classical and modern art. Linguistic scholars might enjoy the Suso and Yuso Monasteries 5. written of San Millán de la Cogolla, where researchers unearthed the first evidence of the Spanish language. Definitely spend a half day at Dinastía Vivanco Museum of Wine 6. comprehensive Culture in Briones. It is a fantastic wine museum that features a collection of ancient wine-making artifacts and
wine-related art (from ancient Greek pottery to the masterpieces of Miró and Picasso). And the largest display of corkscrews in the world – 3,000 pieces from the 18th century to the present.
buffs will love Rioja. The Ruins in Rioja Alavesa is famous 7. History for its pre-historic and Roman ruins, including the remains of a Celtic village at La Hoya.
At the Guggenheim in Bilbao
a break from wine tasting? Enjoy a day of fishing, hunting, 8. Need hiking, and mountain biking in the picturesque mountains of Sierra de Cameros and Sierra de la Demanda. is your thing, head to Valdezcaray, a ski resort near one 9. Ifofskiing Rioja's oldest towns, Santo Domingo de la Calzada. the village of Fuenmayor there's an incredible little 10. theAtrestaurant called “La Alameda." Steak is their specialty - on rare side - lots of garlic and delicious!
11. Now that’s a steak!
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After a long week of tasting wines you will need to relax. Be sure to go south to Rioja Baja and visit the village of Arnedillo. Here are the "healing waters" of natural hot springs.
don’t forget to have a GinTonic. You will be amazed at how 12. And they make them in Spain and fall in love with Gin all over again.
LET’S GO TO RIOJA! Mi Ruta de Vino
I just returned from RIOJA and fell in love with Spain all over again. I stayed in the heart of Logroño about an hour and a half drive from Bilbao. Logroño is the hub of Rioja; it’s where the action happens. Going to Rioja is like stepping into a time machine. On your right there are amazing 12th century churches and skinny streets in old villages surrounded by stone walls. On your left you see modern buildings, European fashion, and extreme architecture. Look ahead to mountains and valleys with the most beautiful vineyards known to man. It is such a mix of time and culture. The food is real and simple – not processed – and spiced up like in the US. It is genuine and delicious, from lamb ribs, chorizo sausage, and wild boar to octopus, potatoes, and white asparagus.
by Summer Martin You eat what is fresh that day. Life is laid back, and every moment is soaked in. That’s what I love about Rioja. Here in the USA you have the hustle and bustle of every day life, but in Spain they take time to smell the grapes... AND GRAPES ARE EVERYWHERE! The wine region of La Rioja is split into three main subregions: RIOJA ALTA, RIOJA ALAVESA, and RIOJA BAJA. Each area has a unique climate and terroir that differentiates them from one another. Rioja Alta typically produces full-bodied wines with medium alcohol content. Rioja Alavesa has the highest elevation and is known for wines that are lighter and aromatic. Rioja Baja is at the lowest elevation on the southern edge of Rioja and produces wines deep in color and fruitier in taste. Follow my "Ruta de Vino" from my trip next time you are in Spain!
RECIPE: PATATAS A LA RIOJANA The chorizo sausage made in La Rioja is one of the best in the country and is used in many dishes. Classic a la riojana dishes combine chorizo with peppers, tomatoes and onions, cooked with snails, game, tripe, bacalao and pork - all meats rich enough to accept the strong flavors of the base ingredients. Potatoes are included in many of these to make a one-pot meal. • • • • • • • • •
4 large potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced 1/4 cup / 60 ml / 2 fI oz. olive oil 8 oz / 250 g chorizo sausage 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 2 teaspoons sweet paprika 1 small hot red chili pepper, seeded and chopped 1 1/2 cups/ 400 mI / 13 fI oz. cold water salt and pepper
Saute the potatoes in the oil until lightly colored. Remove and set aside. Fry the whole sausages in the remaining oil until the surface is crisp; remove. Saute the onion and garlic until golden. Slice the sausage and return to the pan with the paprika and chili. Cook briefly, then add the potatoes with water and salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly and cook until the potatoes are tender.
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REMÍREZ DE GANUZA (SAMANIEGO, RIOJA ALAVESA)
Not a “Jack of all Trades,” but a true Master of Tempranillo. This is the philosophy of Fernando Remírez de Ganuza. I visited many bodegas on my trip, all wanting to show off their long line of wines. But Fernando Remírez de Ganuza is smart. He knows what Spain (and La Rioja) does best is Tempranillo, and he focuses on that and does it right. So right in fact, that they have a 100-point (WA) Gran Reserva releasing soon. Unfortunately, I did not get to taste that, according to Luis Alberto, Ganuza’s export manager, he has been told to not yet give out any samples. Gee, wonder why? REMÍREZ DE GANUZA only bottles Reserva Tempranillo (2005 RESERVA – $69.99 for a limited time). All made in a small boutique winery in the beautiful village of Samaniego, landmarked by a beautiful 15th century church. In the chateau part of the bodega lives the winemaker, Fernando and his family. It is a beautiful home rebuilt with the same 16th century stones that features a gorgeous terrace and swimming pool. Looking at this little bodega is like stepping into a fairytale. The winery, while it looks older from the outside, is actually very modern, clean and organized complete with a big flat screen TV in the sorting room. Export manager, Luis Alberto Martínez, was the most hospitable and fun host I had in Rioja, and I owe him for introducing me to Mesón La Alameda! Delicious food, good times, and great wine!
2001 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 1.5L $16999 2001 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 3L $34999 “Super fragrant and becoming approachable. Dense, sweet, harmonious, and altogether charming, this is a great wine that will continue to evolve for a few more years and which should drink well for another 25...” 97WA 1998 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 3L $34999 “It is an elegant, savory, complex wine that has good depth and concentration. It should drink nicely for another decade...” 93WA
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Luis Alberto (Remírez de Ganuza) explaining their pressing system. They introduce a "water bag" through the top of the tank and fill it with water to gently press the grapes, getting the most juice without breaking the skins.
2004 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 750ml $7999 2004 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 1.5L $16999 “It offers up a splendid bouquet of sandalwood, incense, Asian spices, balsamic, and black cherry. Layered, opulent, and impeccably balanced, it is a monumental effort.” 97WA 2005 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 750ml $6999 “A great aromatic array of pain grille, pencil lead, scorched earth, lavender, spice box, and blackberry. Broad, mouth-filling, layered, and structured, this still tightly wound Rioja has all the right stuff. It will provide pleasure through 2046.” 96WA
LA RIOJA ALTA (HARO, RIOJA ALTA)
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A must-see town in the northwest area of La Rioja is Haro; quaint, picturesque and surrounded by vineyards. In Haro you will find the winery (not to be confused with the region) LA RIOJA ALTA. Established in 1890, La Rioja Alta is one of the oldest wineries in Rioja and is a benchmark for traditional Riojas. Neighbors to Muga, they are similar in many ways, yet both unique. Like Muga, La Rioja Alta makes all of its own barrels. They are adamant about not using French oak, but 100% American from my old neck of the woods in the hills of Tennessee. Racking is done by hand – like at Muga – every 6 months, which is with 51,000 barrels, an incredible feat. La Rioja Alta holds fast to making Tempranillo in Rioja's traditional style. The wines are aged at the winery longer than most and completely ready to drink upon release. This is why we are just now tasting vintages like the 1997 GRAN RESERVA 904 ($44.99). It's great because you get beautifully aged wines that don’t require years of storage. Their Reservas, like the 2004 ARANA ($24.99), are some of the most elegant and pure Tempranillo wines I’ve tasted.
That’s not to say an old dog can’t learn new tricks. To keep with the times, La Rioja Alta branched out with an Albariño. Be on the look out for their 2010 LAGAR DE CERVERA ALBARIÑO ($14.99) from Rias Baixas.
BODEGAS MUGA (HARO, RIOJA ALTA)
It wouldn’t be a trip to Rioja without stopping by BODEGAS MUGA. Fortunately it is right next door to La Rioja Alta, and with one email to my good friend Juan Muga, export manager Jesus Viguera fit us in at the last minute. Thank you Jesus! Everywhere you go in Rioja, people know Muga. Here too, that’s why Wine & Spirits Magazine named it “The Most Popular Spanish Wine in the USA”. I’ve always known this, but going there put a new perspective on things. It's amazing the attention to detail they give to everything. What impressed me most was their use of oak in every stage of the process. Everywhere I went in Rioja I saw steel fermentation tanks, but not at Muga. They have their own cooperage like La Rioja Alta where they make their own barrels and large casks. They use 4 different degrees of toasting the barrels,
which provide each wine with distinct flavors. Muga has all of their wines on an Enomatic machine in their tasting room. “Which is your favorite?” I was asked. That’s hardly fair, I love them all! The SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL (2005 - $34.99) is my go-to wine at home. It's gorgeous, with an incredible nose of black fruits, espresso, spice and wood, rich and silky on the palate. The 2001 PRADO ENEA (PREORDER $49.99) is a velvety gran reserva; a traditional Tempranillo, elegant and pure. TORRE MUGA (2005 - $69.99), on the other hand, is a huge, modern blend with intense aromas and flavored with sweet vanillin oak and black pepper. Big, bold, and by far at the top of my list. They are all exceptional.
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BODEGAS RIOJANAS (CENICERO, RIOJA ALTA)
The first wine I tasted in Spain was the 2004 MONTE REAL RESERVA ($19.99) at Tahiti Restaurant on Calle Laurel. It is a beautiful modern-styled wine. It wasn't until a few days later that we visited Bodegas Riojanas and met winemaker Pablo Orio. Little did we know, he was at Tahiti the same night, sitting at the table next to us listening to us talk about the wine as we oooh and ahhh'ed 1.) Winemaker Pablo Orio is a triathlete who wants to compete in the Ironman one day.
over it. Bodegas Riojanas knows how to make wine, and should since they are one of the oldest wineries in Rioja. In fact, only 12 wineries are older than 100 years in Rioja and Riojanas is one of them. Started by the same family that runs it now. 2004 was one of the best years in Rioja, so be sure to also check out the 2004 VIÑA ALBINA ($19.99) from Riojanas.
2.) The plate noting the original construction of the Bodega in 1890.
3.) My first glass of wine in Spain: Monte Real!
REMELLURI (SAN VICENTE, RIOJA ALAVESA) When we drove up to REMELLURI, I knew it was going to be special. I remember fellow coworkers telling me, "This trip is going to change your life. You will come back a different person." They were right. The visit to Remelluri completely blew my mind. "This is what it's all about," I kept saying to myself. Pictures can't describe how beautiful it was. In fact they just shot a Spanish film called "On the Way to Paradise." Truer words couldn’t be said. The estate at Remelluri was built in the 15th century. In fact they have an older sanctuary at the top of their mountains where monks once went
Summer’s
RUTA DE VINO Rioja
to worship. People have been making wine there for hundreds of years. Standing there in the mountains of such rich history is truly overwhelming. When we got to the estate, Spanish market manager, Jose María, showed us the vineyards surrounding la casa and quickly shuffled us into the Land Rovers covered in mud and we drove up the mountain side. When I say mountains, I mean MOUNTAINS. These ain’t the Tennessee hills! In fact, Remelluri has the highest altitude vineyards in all of Rioja Alavesa. Amazingly we were able to get to the top. On the way we saw some 130-year-old pre-phylloxera vines. Unbelievable. It got even better when we toured the bodega and tasted barrel samples from 10 different wines including winemaker Telmo Rodriguez's own personal collection.
A little tip, when barrel tasting in Spain, it is sacrilegious to discard extra wine left in your glass. Instead, you must pour it back into the wine barrel to continue aging. No waste allowed. After tasting barrel samples we tasted older vintages of Remelluri Reserva and Gran Reserva, a 1999, 1985, 2001, and more. The 1985 Gran Reserva was unbelievable! I have to admit I couldn't spit that one out! Completely amazing to see how the wines evolve as they age. The visit at Remelluri is what wine is all about. It was inspiring, breathtaking and left me speechless. Get a taste of the 2005 REMELLURI, only $29.99.
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CAMPO VIEJO (LOGROÑO, RIOJA ALTA)
Above: Roberto Vicente Miguel, Winemaker Below: Campo Viejo’s sleek, modern tasting room
Driving up to CAMPO VIEJO it looks like a small building amidst endless vineyards. Little do people know that underneath the building resides over 40,000 sq. ft. of their operation, from winemaking labs and steel tank vats to barrel rooms and a bottling center. Efficiency is their key. 100% eco friendly, their underground facility keeps a consistent low temperature at all times. It also allows them to use the gravity method to move grapes, which helps avoid the breaking of seeds. Everything is automated with the push of a few buttons, and it makes for an efficient winemaking process. Good thing because they produce 18 million bottles per year with only 65 on staff. Small business, huge yields, and great wine. Lunch with Roberto Vicente Miguel, a winemaker on the team at Campo Viejo was delicious. We shared the traditional bodega meal of lamb ribs grilled over vine shoots, while he told us about his experience as winemaker for Brancott and Jacobs Creek prior to Campo Viejo. At your next cookout this summer, be sure to bring a bottle of CAMPO VIEJO (2007 CRIANZA - $7.99, 2006 RESERVA - $9.99).
Above: The beautiful staircase leading to the barrel room. Below: Campo Viejo’s barrel room is the largest in Europe.
BARON DE LEY (MENDAVIA, RIOJA BAJA) The award for "Most Enthusiastic Winemaker" I met while in Rioja goes to Gonzalo Rodriguez of BARON DE LEY. When you see passion and fire in people, their excitement rubs off on you. Gonzalo is passionate about winemaking. Having made wine in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, he decided to join with Baron de Ley to make wine in Rioja Baja. Rioja Baja has always been considered the "red-headed stepchild" of the three regions, because it is known well for its bulk wine. Gonzalo's friends asked him, "Why are you going to Africa to make wine?" He said, "I want to give it a shot, if its no good I'll open a zoo." No Gonzalo Rodriguez, Winemaker for Baron de Ley
need, Baron de Ley wines speak for themselves. Rich, full-bodied reds filled with as much energy as Gonzalo when he ran (literally) from tank to tank carrying a spit bucket to give us samples of his wines from the vats. The 2004 RESERVA (92WA, $19.99) is a fantastic blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Garnacha. But what really knocked my socks off was the 2004 7 VIÑAS ($49.99). Parker's Jay Miller got this one wrong. He scored it a mere 92 points and in my book it deserves a solid 94. It is an incredible field blend from a single plot made of 7 different grapes. As Bob would say, "You're gonna want that!" The bell that is depicted on every Baron de Ley label.
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NEWS FROM NUITS
Erwan Faiveley builds for the future Visiting DOMAINE FAIVELEY last year it was obvious of their moving with the times and that their solid reputation was the foundation for a climb to the future. Beginning in 1825 buying and selling only the family had an acquisitive strategy and outlook toward building a cornerstone they would be able to move down and around the block. Erwan Faiveley, the 7th generation of the family, took over as a 25 year old recently graduated from college in 2005. Paying attention as he grew up in Nuits St-Georges he learned that the way to control the future was to own land. The reputation and resources of Faiveley – they manufacture train parts too – allowed them to accumulate great parcels – “if you just look at the price of land you will never buy any, because it will always be too expensive. But, when you look back after
DOMAINE FAIVELEY Clos de Vougeot
by Rhett Beiletti
five or ten years you will always feel that you should have bought more. Always.” Perhaps the greatest contribution so far that Erwan Faiveley has made has been to give the wines a bit more refinement and finesse by taming the wood and green tannins that used to be present, by changing the oak regiment. Still solidly constructed, the tannins have become more integrated and rounder but are still present to work on balance and structure.
2009 Faiveley Pommard 1er cru 'Les Rugiens' $84.99 (Pre-order)
Discreet but not invisible wood frames quite a cool but elegant mix of red and blue orchard fruit that introduces mineral-inflected and big-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration as well as a stunningly long finish. This is not only exceptionally complex but I also like the sophistication of the tannins. 92-94 POINTS / 2021+ Allen Meadows' Burghound (Jan 2011)
2009 BURGUNDY PRE-ORDERS Available at B-21.COM
2009 Faiveley Chambertin 'Clos de Beze' Grand Cru $249.99 (Pre-order) Compelling aromas of extremely fresh and airy menthol-infused red berry fruit, soil and distinctly spiced tones plus an underlying hint of animale transfers over to the rich, full and serious broad-shouldered flavors brimming with dry extract and supported by impressively refined and ripe tannins that are almost completely buffered on the powerful and balanced finish by the buckets of mid-palate sap. Terrific. 93-96 POINTS / 2026+ Allen Meadows' Burghound
BIG
WORLD SMALL BUDGET
2006 CHATEAU BEAULIEU COMTES DE TASTES (BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR) $14.99 ($13.49 by the case) “Like I remember them being when I first began enjoying Bordeaux, supple and dry. Concentrated sweet dark fruits, some almost chocolate-y notes and a touch of mineral too. Medium-weight with substance, this is drinking perfectly now.” 89 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 90CS, 90SM, 91SR
2008 CHATEAU LASCAUX (COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC) $14.99 (Reg: 16.99)
The best of France under $15. by Rhett Beiletti
2009 NOVELLUM CHARDONNAY (VIN DE PAYS D’OC) $9.99
Nice ripe fruit, soft minerality and some tropical tones, the newest issue of Novellum is my favorite yet. The wine is ripe and the acids low, which actually works here. It is completely open for business (meaning ready to drink) and contains no oaky nonsensical flavors but instead is clean and purely fruit driven. Solid. 89 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 87SS, 88SM, 89SDR
2008 LA CHANTELEUSERIE CUVEE ALOUETTES (BOURGUEIL) $13.99
“A bold number that shows great depth aromatically due the 60% Syrah, a sassafras-like spice presence and a dark fruit ganache that is layered and long.” 90 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 90CS, 90SM, 90SR
2008 CLOS LA COUTALE (CAHORS) $12.99
“I simply never tire of this wine.” 90 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France
This Cabernet Franc wine, never touched by oak, shows red fruits, spice and floral qualities and has a perfectly fresh ring on the finish and can stand a 40 minute chill before serving. 88 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 90CS, 89SR
2009 CERCIUS ROUGE (COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES VISAN) $13.99
“Very pretty w/ floral notes and luscious red fruits, shows restraint and is a dry style of CdR -- the style Chianti drinkers will enjoy.” 91 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 89CS, 89SS, 90SM, 89+SDR 91SR
More staff scores: 91SM, 91SS, 91SR, 91SDR 90SR
2007 BAPTISTE-BOUTES (MINERVOIS) $9.99
“Ripe, supple black fruits, a real crowd pleaser” 88 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21’s Correspondent to France More staff scores: 89SR
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CUVEE JUNE:
Amancaya by Bodegas CaRo
$14
99 750ml
“With Argentina’s excellent fruit in 2009 and 30 year-old vines in the best vineyard sites this is more than a fine red, it’s a beautiful wine that speaks every level of wine appreciation and sophistication. The 2009 Amanc has an amazingly high level of concentration, freshness, and distinct Lafite poise.” Robert Sprentall, B-21 Proprieto
aker: Winem Perinetti Elena
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Born: 2009 Hometown: Mendoza, Argentina Parents: Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon; high-altitude terroir Education: 12 months in oak GPA: 91 (91SM, 91RAS) Hobbies: Tango, mountain-climbing, grilling, visiting family in France Favorite siblings: Lafite Rothschild, Catena, Duhart-Milon, Los Vascos, Rieussec Best friends: Barons Eric de Rothschild, Nicolรกs Catena, Elena Perinetti Values: Fresh air, handcrafts, elegance, Transatlantic Lafite friendships ($14.99)
POP QUIZ: BUBBLES
HOW WOULD YOU CELEBRATE ROYALLY?
So Wills and Kate popped open a few bottles of Pol Roger. We're surprised Prince Charles HRH Father of the Groom and Patron of Cottage Industries didn't insist on some of the new home-grown English bubbly. There's a world of other choices out there. So we asked ourselves what we'd prefer to celebrate something not so big as the Windsor's nuptials but a wedding, anniversary or graduation closer to home.
EMAILS YOU MISSED B-21 Proprietor, Bob Sprentall offers our best deals to our best customers via email. These contain insights on great wines as well as pricing not available anywhere else. They are often small lots that sell out within hours never to be seen again Below is a sample of a few we offered last month (at current sale price). To make sure you don’t miss the best deals, sign-up at b-21.com and select the wines you love. We’ll give you first crack at our finds.
Rhett Beiletti: GUY LARMANDIER $4999
Guy Larmandier is a supreme example of the blanc de blanc credo to be flavorful and focused at the same time with everything in place, the balance between Chardonnay fruit and Champagne terroir. Supple and dry, this is a month of Sundays of enjoyment. 93RB 750ml $49.99, 375ml $25.99, 1.5L $109.99
Summer Martin: 2010 SARACCO MOSCATO $14
99
OK, I will admit it, I love Moscato. It is one of my guilty pleasures, and Paulo Saracco makes one of the best. Even Antonio Galloni from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate says, "Paolo Saracco is one of the reference-point producers of fine Moscato. I always make sure to have at least a few bottles on hand at the house." I agree. It is smooth on the palate and filled all of the rich flavors and aromas of peaches, fruit and flowers that you could want. Its just downright sexy.
Chris Sherman: SCHRAMSBERG BRUT ROSÉ $3499
Nothing is more festive than bubbles in pink, which may be why the French always charge more for it. No worries, you can have a rich rosy sparkler from California's best producer for less than $40. Mind you this is meaty, not frilly, wine with more berries than cherries, a perfect food wine for an intimate dinner at home from salmon to duck, my feast of choice.
Beyond Pesquera: Right next door is 96 pt Hacienda Monasterio Boy, do I love this stuff! Monasterio is Tempranillo as only Ribera del Duero can make it, deep, complex and so elegant even in a young crianza. I've given all of these wines my highest scores, from 92 for the 2007 crianza and 95 and 96 for the magnificent 2005, and I know they'll get even better in the next ten 20 years. Why? Because the terroir is exceptional and so is the wine-making, thanks to Peter Sisseck from Pingus. He's been here since 1990 and knows the place well. The Tempranillo has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but the flavors are pure Ribera, red and black fruits warmed with Asian spices. I've knocked more than $80 a case off our already low prices so you can enjoy them through the years. You're gonna want that. Bob Sprentall Proprietor
2005 Hacienda Monasterio Especial Crianza 93WA, 95RAS $49.99 2007 Hacienda Monasterio Especial Crianza 92WA, 92RAS $49.99 2005 Hacienda Monasterio Reserva Especial 95WA, 96RAS $69.99
Shannon Sprentall: AGRAPART 7 CRUS $3499
Since everyday is a holiday my Agrapart 7 Crus is always available. This is my go-to Champagne for several reasons. Number one, the grapes are sourced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in the Cotes de Blanc. This Champagne has the concentration of fruit and fineness of a luxury Champagne that would typically cost double. Number two, it’s very reasonably priced at $34.99. Number three, this Champagne is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. They call that blanc de blanc in Champagne and for me it’s the key to the finest bubbly being made. Yes, Pinot Noir is big time in the Champagne world but the richest and best defined are from 100% Chardonnay.
Shawn Reynolds: PIERRE MONCUIT CUVEE MONCUIT DELOS MESNIL-SUR-OGER $4499
All blanc de blanc goodness here. Citrus, minerality, with a dash of apple, pear, and a lime squeeze. Fresh and crisp, this is an excellent choice for graduation celebrations or just because you’ve been a good egg. 12 | B-21.com
Grand cru California Pinot you must try: I say 93 plus! The rugged Sonoma Coast appellation may be our Cote d'Or. I know the best vineyards of it like Gap's Crown and Sangiacomo are stunning grand cru sites for Pinot Noir. That's where Sojourn Cellars sources its grapes and so do Kosta Browne, Paul Hobbs and other smart folks. If Sojourn is new to you, get to know it soon. Sojourn's only 10 years-old but already a star with me, Robert Parker, Spectator, everyone who loves great Burgundy and the intensity that comes from long hang time. Sojourn does make Cabernet, but its true specialty is terroir-driven Pinot Noir, seven of them every year. Hard to pick a favorite I'd swear the '09 San Giacomo, which gets Pacific fog and cool, came from Chambolle, creamy mouth feel, long silky textures and lovely aromatics. The Gap's Crown is farther up the hillside on rocky volcanic soil, lots of rhyolite, makes for very concentrated wine, very ripe, long fun drinking. Old cru Burgundies are grand, but Sojourn's may be better and a fraction of the price. You're gonna want that. Bob Sprentall Proprietor
2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 94WS 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard 93WA YOUR CHOICE: $47.99
VENETO TREASURE: BERTANI AMARONES by Chris Sherman Verona is wonderfully old, from Roman ruins to Romeo and Juliet's balcony. Its grandest wines are ancient too, the humble Valpolicella turned into lush Amarone by primitive magic. Originally the Corvina and Rondinella grapes were left on straw mats in the sun to shrivel and begin fermention naturally before crushing their raisinated bodies into wine. Nowadays, the grapes are kept inside, but the process which can still take three months is the same. The transformation makes for a unique and heady wine, slippery and syrupy, big in alcohol and relatively low in tannins. Inside this luscious wrapping are cherries, berries, dates, figs, nuts and spices. The old Veronese recycled too: They put the pomace of crushed skins and stems from the Amarone and used them for second fermentation of a lesser wine they called Ripasso. It was in that very traditional Veneto world that a new winery arrived in the mid 1800s run by the very innovative brothers BERTANI, two gentlemen from Verona who also happened to be students of Prof. Guyot, the great French modernizer. They employed his daring
new techniques in their vineyards and weeded out odd grapes to focus their plots on specific varietals. Today, 150 years later, BERTANI owns prime vineyards throughout Valpolicella so that it controls its own fruit all the way through, a rarity among Amarone producers. Amarone, however, was a northern Italian delicacy, if you can call such a robust wine delicate, until the 1950s when it developed its first export markets. B-21's stock goes back almost that far. We have grand old vintages back to the figgy 5- star 1959 BERTANI ($399.99) Recioto and newer ones that will keep for decades too, like the luxurious 2001 BERTANI (94RAS, 92WA, $79.99). Those are of course treasures, but Bertani's 2007 RIPASSO ($13.99) gives a full taste of Veneto plums and tradition for a much more affordable price, polished and still gutsy enough for a roast pork. And plain old Valpolicella, not so ordinary when Bertani makes it, will show you how those grapes fare without any elaboration. The 2009 (89+RB) is only $9.99. A very easy drink that remains the most playful five syllables of Italian wine on the tongue.
Pictures shot from the hip in Verona (March 2011).
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GET BUCK NAKED WITH CHARDONNAY by Shawn Reynolds A lot of folks absolutely love them some oaky Chardonnay. We hear it a lot. Toasty. Buttery. Oaky. But most of us here don’t prefer our Chardonnays in this style. Something happened along the way. What was it? In their attempt to emulate the complex and ageworthy Chardonnay-based Montrachets and Meursaults of Côte d’Or, California winemakers forgot to consider the glaring difference between their situation and that of their French counterparts: advantageous growing conditions. In Côte d’Or, winemakers struggle with temperature and unpredictable weather, which inhibit Chardonnay’s ability to fully ripen, resulting in lower sugar and elevated acidity.
2009 PASSOPISCIARO GUARDIOLA CHARDONNAY $2999 “Pale straw. Pungent apple, buttercup and mineral aromas along with a hint of resin on the complex nose. Juicy, concentrated flavors of thyme, lime, banana, honey and stone coat the palate. Finishes long and very clean, with mouthwatering freshness...” 90ST
2009 JOEL GOTT CHARDONNAY $1299 "Believe me, you won’t miss the oak barrel influence on this wine. It’s so good all by itself. Brightened with crisp Monterey acidity and totally dry, it’s rich in pineapple, tangerine, Meyer lemon, lime, mineral and vanilla flavors..." 90WE
2009 NOVELLUM CHARDONNAY BY DOMAINE LAFAGE $999 (partial barrel-fermented, aged in stainless) “Nice ripe fruit, soft minerality and some tropical tones, the newest issue of Novellum is my favorite yet. The wine is ripe and the acids low, which actually works here. It is completely open for business (meaning ready to drink) clean and purely fruit driven.” Solid. 89RB 14 | B-21.com
California growers enjoy a more idyllic scenario in which even an off year is generally pretty good, producing ripe berries with near-perfect sugar levels. The unnecessary addition of new oak and malolactic fermentation can overpower a wine, creating a dull experience similar to a toasted butterscotch lozenge. Chablis - a region famous for Chardonnay traditionally aged in stainless steel tanks or neutral oak - is a stellar example of a ripe Chardonnay berry's alternate potential. This style of aging allows the grape to fully express itself, with luscious fruit and acidity so bright it tickles your cheeks. Winemakers the world over are dabbling in this method, crafting beautiful, crisp, fresh, laser-bright wines that exude apple, pear, citrus, and mineral notes, food-friendly Chardonnays that offer the perfect complement to light summer fare. If your summertime persona leans toward Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, we have a “naked” Chardonnay with your name on it.
OTHER UNOAKED CHARDONNAYS 2008 L. Latour Ardeche Vin de Pays des Coteaux.............. $799 2008 Yalumba Y Series Chardonnay Unwooded 86WS..... $999 2007 L. Latour Grand Ardeche Vin de Pays........................ $999 2008 L. Latour Macon Villages 88RAS............................. $999 2009 L. Latour Macon-Lugny Genievres.......................... $1099 2009 L. Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay..................... $1199 2009 L. Latour Pouilly-Fuisse barrel ferm, aged stainless.... $1699 2009 Villa Maria Chard Unoaked Private Bin 86WS........ $1299 2008 Henri Perrusset Macon-Villages 88ST................... $1399 2008 Roland Lavantureux Petit Chablis 86WA................ $1599 2008 Adelsheim Chardonnay 89WS................................ $1899 2008 Lavantureux Chablis 88WA.................................... $1999 2008 Silver by Mer Soleil Chardonnay Unoaked 88WS.. $1999 2009 Silver by Mer Soleil Chardonnay Unoaked 90+SDR.. $1999
ARE YOU THERE, TORRONTÉS? IT’S ME SHANNON… 2010 CRIOS TORRONTÉS $12.99 Perfumed aromas of peach nectar and flowers. Juicy, pure and intense, with lovely floral perfume and bright framing acidity. A bit viognier-like like in its floral complexity. Finishes juicy and long, and not a bit heavy. This is the #1 torrontés imported from Argentina and virtually never misses. 91 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, (91WA, 91SS)
2010 COLOMÉ TORRONTÉS $12.99 Always one of Argentina's best and more fuller-bodied Torrontés. It's tropical and easy on the nose, with fleshy roundness and chunky flavors of melon and peach. Full in style, with some extra weight to the finish. Best to drink this as soon as you can, while its fresh and lively. 89 Points Wine Enthusiast (90SS)
by Shannon Sprentall
I’ve been wishin’, hopin’, thinkin’, and prayin’ for more of my favorite Argentine white to grace the market with its presence. An avid Crios Torrontés follower for a few years, I started having doubts whether there was anything comparable to my beloved. After exploring high and low (Salta and Mendoza), I finally discovered its counterpart, Colomé. Two details that simplified my search: 2010 and Salta. As far as vintage is concerned, the younger the better. Torrontés is high in acidity and intriguingly aromatic, over time these characters dwindle. A shorter shelf life and it’s ready to drink now; so, as you’ve heard, if you don’t use it you lose it. There are two main areas for the production of Torrontés: one in the hotter Mendoza region, and the other is Salta in the Northwest. Mendoza produces more flamboyant and 'bigger' wines, almost Riesling in style as Salta produces wines that are crisper, more delicate, and richer due to its altitude 5,000 -7,500 feet above sea level. High elevation + cooler climate + direct sun = balanced minerality. Hopefully we will see more Torrontés dazzle the market soon, but until then, simplify the search and explore 2010 CRIOS and 2010 COLOMÉ.
THE STINGER
COURVOISIER DEBUTS: by Shawn Reynolds TWENTY-ONE-YEAR-OLD COGNAC “Imagine a length of velvet and another of a silk fabric. Stroke them. The velvet has a deep, rich texture. That is an Armagnac. The silk is pure finesse, and that, to me, is a cognac.” ~Salvatore Calabrese All cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac, thus it’s irresponsible to share cognac’s story without first telling that of brandy. The word brandy is a truncated version of brandywine or, more accurately, brandewijn, Dutch for “burnt wine.” A confluence of cultures and a dash of dumb luck led to brandy’s inception. To France, Romans introduced grape vines, Arabs the still, and Celts the craft of barrelmaking. The Dutch joined the three, distilling French wines both for preservation and to shed weight for the voyage back to Holland in oak casks, later reintroducing water with the thought that it would resurrect the wine. Did it work? Not so much. However, upon a random sampling of the undiluted, rested spirit, folks learned that the time on oak had inadvertently created a superior product and brandy was born. What distinguishes cognac from brandy? French law is very specific concerning production. Cognac must be twice distilled from wines of the “delimited” regions along the Charente River. The wines must be made from at least 90% Ugni Blanc, Colombard, or Folle Blanche grapes. Distillation occurs strictly from November to March in lots of a predetermined size at a specific temperature in traditional Charentais copper stills. Aging commences the first of April in local one-hundred-year-old Limousin or Tronçais oak barrels, bound by metal bands to avoid contamination by glue.
Why two distillations? The first produces a cloudy liquid, or brouillis, just 2/3 the original volume and rendered at about 15˚. The second reduces by another 1/3 - to around 35˚ -and creates three distinct striations called the heart, the head, and the tails. The latter two are removed and kept for blending, while the heart is transferred to young oak casks for a year or two before moving again to older casks. After the second aging, a master taster marries the heart with other brandies on hand to add complexity and sustain consistency from year to year (cognac houses retain a decade’s worth of samples for comparative purposes). The process is intensive, time-consuming, and quite wasteful. Due to evaporation during distillation and barrel absorption while aging, it takes nine liters of wine to produce one liter of cognac. Caretakers affectionately regard lost spirits as the “angels’ share.” First timer to cognac? As is often the case with luxury spirits, cognac owns its own ritual for which proper glassware is key. A tulipshaped glass is optimal, but a spherical wine glass or brandy snifter works in a pinch. Pour in a very small splash and cradle for 10 minutes or so. The heat from your hand gradually increases that of the cognac, unleashing aromatics. Swirl it around - keep your glass around chest level to avoid numbing your nose with alcohol esters - and breathe in slow and deep. Note the host of scents that rise from the glass. Take a nip and lead it around your mouth. Ponder for a few minutes as the spirit opens up. Swirl again and inhale. As you continue the spirit continues to release new flavors and aromas.
Today we feature COURVOISIER 21, the flagship and first ever 21-year-old, age-stated cognac from Courvoisier. Courvoisier crafts its top-tier cognac exclusively from grapes of Grande Champagne Cru, Cognac’s most prestigious region, and ages it for more than two decades, creating a rare and precious experience. The 21 emanates sweet scents of dried apricot, fig, hazelnut and Christmas cookies. Take a nip and lead it around your mouth… the aromatics intensify, joined by soft, warm ginger bread, candied oranges, honey and coriander. The warmth of 80 proof cascades down your shoulders and inches to your toes. It twists and blooms, revealing hints of cranberry, cherry, marzipan and butterscotch. This stuff is absolutely stunning. The finish lingers for well over a minute - ebbing and flowing – and demonstrates that cognac is much more about the trip than the destination.
“Cognac is the drink that’s drank by Gs” ~Snoop Dogg COURVOISIER 21 arrives in a decorative case with matching journal for jotting down when, why and with whom you enjoyed an occasion. It’s the perfect night cap for holiday gatherings and makes an excellent gift for the person who has everything. Unleash your inner G and, in the words of Busta Rhymes, “Pass the Courvoisier…”
Connoisseurs’ Collection: COURVOISIER 21 $199.99 98 points, Shannon Sprentall, B-21 Director of Spirits 98 points, Shawn Reynolds, B-21 Resident Historian
SULFITES AND WINE Lately I’ve encountered a ton of folks concerned about sulfites and wine. I’d like to take a minute to break down some of the myths on the subject. Organic wines may contain less sulfites, but there is no such thing as “sulfite-free” wine; sulfites occur naturally in all wines as a natural byproduct of yeast metabolism during fermentation and, contrary to popular belief, white wines generally contain more sulfites than reds. Less than one half of one percent of us experiences the ill effects of sulfites. And those who do – asthamtics are particularly at risk - don’t get headaches. Reactions include rashes and, in extreme cases, anaphylaxis. The general notion is that wine is one of the biggest cuplrits, though the truth of the matter is that we find sulfites in everything from fruit juices to prescription medications (a handful of dried apricots contains ten times that found in a glass of wine). So if you’re experiencing headaches, you either need to pump the brakes and slow your roll or stop drinking cheap wine. So now you know. And knowing’s half the battle.
COGNAC COCKTAIL Looking for a fresh way to enjoy a splash of cognac? Similar to a daiquiri, the Sidecar is a bright, fruity complement to sunshine and happy times. Treat your people to something different.
SIDECAR
• 2 tbsp. superfine sugar • 1 lemon wedge • 3 tbsp. (1 1/2 ounces) Cognac • 2 tbsp. (1 ounce) Cointreau or Triple Sec orange liqueur • 1 tbsp. (1/2 ounce) fresh lemon juice • 1 cup ice Spread superfine sugar on small plate. Rub lemon wedge halfway around rim of chilled martini or coupe glass. Dip moistened side of glass in sugar to lightly coat outside rim of glass. Set aside. In cocktail shaker, combine Cognac, Cointreau, and lemon juice. Add ice and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Strain into chilled martini or coupe glass and serve.
AUSTRALIAN HERO
by Chris Sherman
Ben Glaetzer carries clan standard for quality, terroir. of Egypt and Rome (and the labels of his Mitolo salute famous court jesters). The wines are decidedly Australian, heroic and bold, and so elegant they have a treasure in gold medals. Like Wallace, Glaetzer is fiercely devoted to terroir, the old-vine vineyards of Ebenezer Valley and McLaren Vale. Ben Glaetzer (right) and his father Colin.
One look at the Celtic roundel on the label of Glaetzer's Wallace and Braveheart battles cross my mind, swords and claymores swinging. Not quite. Australia's star winemaker Ben Glaetzer doesn't have Mel Gibson's tresses or blue war paint. He's handsomely bald and very disciplined. Yet Glaetzer's mother's family does go back to Scottish Wallaces, if not to the legendary William Wallace himself. But then Glaetzer emblazons all his wines with a world of ancient heroes from the gods
Most of all he is part of a clan, a first family of Barossa, almost all of them winemakers. His father Colin is a widely admired Baron of Barossa, his wife is a winemaker, as are his brothers, and two more in-laws. Yet Glaetzer's style is diplomatic not war-like. In an era of high extraction, he takes the low path to capture and lift the taste of the land. Big flavors emerge but they are almost light, the tannins fine grained, the acid subtle but vital. That last touch gives his wines one of the most classic French touches I find in the big generous flavors of Australian reds.
The most noble of his efforts is the 2009 AMON-RA, named for the top Egyptian god, which shows off deep chocolate and earthiness, with a crisp core. (96+WA, $89.99). THE WALLACE fits my budget and palate better, yet it's no peasant. Glaetzer gives Barossa Shiraz and Grenache a royal treatment, older oak for the first, stainless for the other; it's fleshy, robust and luscious with cherries and an edge of acid and spice. Makes me want to put lamb or pork on the spit for a feast. (91CS, $17.99) THE JESTER line, made with terroir-obsessed Frank Mitolo in McLaren Vale, are serious fun. Each is named for historic and famous jesters to English royals, but the wines are no fools. The 2007 SHIRAZ has enough spice and dark sweetness to entertain a medieval fair for a week, (92CS, 91WA, $15.99). The 2007 CABERNET has Aussie ripeness and depth plus a tart grown-up sophistication that tickles adult humors. (90CS, 90AWC, $15.99).
M O R S E C O D E S H I R A Z : Instant good news First came the critter wines, then Americans introduced jalopy wines named for old trucks and tail fins. A smaller group of wineries name their wines after the very networks of transportation and communication, from stage coaches and milestone to mail and telegraph. None are as obsessed or as clever as Henry's Drive, which is named for the man who ran the stage line through Padthaway 150 years ago and first got our attention with Pillar Box, patterned after the iconic mail box. Charming history, but the true relevance of stage and mail to this winery is that Henry's wines deliver dependably. Actually Henry's Drive over18 | B-21.com
delivers for me -- and anyone else who stretches a $10 bill, a much bigger package for modest postage. The latest triumph is MORSE CODE 2008 SHIRAZ ($8.99), highly recommended as best values by both James Halliday and Huon Hooke in Australia, and honoring the telegraph operators who tapped out and received the messages that linked Oz and its lonely stations to the world. Probably you have to be a farmer to appreciate such miracles. Especially an Australian farmer. The continent was the outback of civilization until engineers stretched cable from Adelaide across the barren great desert to isolated Darwin and then under the sea to Java.
by Chris Sherman Today, Morse Code's message connects us direct to the Limestone Coast of South Australia. The fruit is pure and ripe, with blueberries, chocolate, and a hint of Aussie licorice and mint. There is almost no oak but the limestone under all the vineyards provides the mineral touch it gives the best terroir around the world. Morse Code goes great with another favorite contraption, the barbie, so this summer tell your friends. Fair Dinkum Shiraz STOP Under $9 STOP Good Value Mate STOP
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43380 U.S. 19 N P.O. Box 849 Tarpon Springs, FL 34688-0849 888-B21-WINE (221-9463) 727-937-5049
Est. 1948
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B-21 Wine Company • www.B-21.com • CS@B-21.com • Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm • Sunday 11am-9pm
ITALY GRAND TOUR Tasting & Sale! Sunday, June 12th, 2pm - 5pm
Taste the glories that are Italy today all the way from the Alps to Sicily. B-21 has assembled more than 90 great names for this comprehensive tasting and special sale: Ornellaia, Guado al Tasso, Isola e Olena, Bertani, Domenico Clerico, Vietti, Brovia, Brancaia, Valdicava, and more from all the current vintages you want to try. A delicious way to learn Italian!
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