Belgrade by bageac

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BELGRADE E S S E N T I A L C I January T Y G U- March I D E S2013

Guitar Art Festival One of Europe's preeminent music events takes place in Belgrade this March

Belgrade Dance Festival NÂ°18

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Serbia's largest dance festival celebrates its first decade

Contents

Nightlife 41 The city that truly never sleeps

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Belgrade

Land on your feet in the Serbian capital

The Basics

History 9 Culture & Events

Exhibitions, concerts, festivals and more

Where to stay

What to see

Churches, parks museums and more

Mail & Phones

Getting around

Belgrade and beyond

Shopping 56 Souvenirs and Keepsakes

Business Directory

Invest in Belgrade

Lifestyle Directory

From Masseurs to Dentists

Business suites to hostel bunks

Sports 62

Restaurants 30

Maps&Index

Vegetarians beware!

CafĂŠs 40 Coffee and cigarettes are mandatory in Belgrade

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Index & Street register City centre map City map Country map

63 64 66 67

January - March 2013

Foreword Now that the winter holidays have come and gone - twice actually, since the Serbian Orthodox church still adheres to the Julian calendar - we can finally get down to the business of publishing the newest edition of Belgrade In Your Pocket. The waning months of winter are not exactly peak tourist season in the Serbian capital, or anywhere else in the northern hemisphere for that matter, but as Belgrade has once again found its way onto countless 'Best of' lists for places to travel in 2013, you can rest assured that you'll be in good company no matter when you visit our fair city.

Europe In Your The World of InPocket Your Pocket

As usual the cultural calendar is also quite packed to start off the year, with a handful of world-class festivals taking the bulk of the attention, including those dedicated to guitarists, european documentary films, international dance, and of course the 41st Belgrade International Film Festival, which is known simply as FEST. For us at In Your Pocket the biggest happening of the season is naturally the 35th International Tourism Fair, which once again will be held concurrently with the increasingly popular BEO Wine Fair. See the Culture & Events chapter on pages 12-18 of this guide for the full listings of these and other events in the city. As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.

Cover story Serbia may be a landlocked nation, but that doesn't mean that its capital is without a coastline. Indeed thanks to its position at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, Belgrade actually has the feel of port city, with both large and small marinas as well as various commercial harbours located along the some 200km of riverbanks in the city's larger urban area. On our cover this issue is one such small marina on the banks of the Sava, with the one-year-old Ada Bridge - the longest single-pylon suspension bridge in the world - rising majestically in the background over Ada Ciganlija island.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Belgrade In Your Pocket Ulofa Palmea 2a, Beograd tel. +381 11 4140 965, +381 11 4140 970, fax +381 11 342 65 62 office@bginfobox.rs www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820-7693 COBISS.SR-ID 147725324

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Editorial

Editor Yuri Barron Editorial Contributors Biljana Nedeljković Layout Radomir Lazović Research Dragana Nedeljković Photos BG Info Box gallery Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG Info Box

Text and photos copyright Belgrade In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Sales & Circulation General Manager Saša Marjanović Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo Belgrade marina, BG Info Box gallery Printed by Graforpodukt Published 4 times per year 20,000 copies

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January - March 2013

ARRIVING IN BELGRADE By plane

Nikola Tesla Airport is located some 18km west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, a 24-hour exchange office, several ATMs, and a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, (+381) 11 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, (+381) 11 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. The Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. The cheapest option for getting to the city centre is bus 72, which leaves from right in front of the Departures hall (one level above arrivals). The bus terminates at Zeleni Venac, which is only a couple hundred metres from Terazija Square, and costs 120 RSD - don't forget to punch the ticket in the automat! It's best to ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at the arrivals hall, because chances are they will rip you off. The best thing to do is to buy a vaucher (1500 Dinars, fixed price to the city centre) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 minutes. The number of passengers or amount of luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some taxi companies: Beogradski taxi, tel. (+381) 11 9801, Pink taxi, tel. (+381) 11 9803, Beotaxi, tel. (+381) 11 970.

By car

Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motorways. Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving license, vehicle registration certificate and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by the signatory countries of the Vehicle Insurance Convention and citizens of other countries are required to buy an insurance policy on entering Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motorway runs through the city. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.

By train

Back in the days of the Orient Express, a journey by train was the best way to get to Belgrade. The Central Railway Station dates back to 1884 and is situated in the downtown area. Besides the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only place in town where you should beware of pickpockets and rip off merchants. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs, a left luggage office, and a tourist information centre. When you leave the station, you will have to fight your way

Market values Exchange rates (on January 11, 2013.): US$1 = 84.10, €1 = 111.50, UK£1 = 135.65 McDonald’s Big Mac 240din. €2.12 1kg of beef 530-600din. €4.70-5.30 10 eggs 130-170din. €1.15-150 Loaf of white bread 50din. €0.44 Snickers bar 55din. €0.47 Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 50din. €0.44 20 Marlboros 200din. €1.76 Public transport ticket 72din. €0.64

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www.inyourpocket.com Tourist information Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade - TOB: Republic Square 5 tel. +381 11 32 81 859, bginfo. knezmihailova@tob.co.rs 4 Open Mon-Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00-15:00 Main railway station tel. +381 11 36 12 732, bginfo.stanica@tob.co.rs 4 Open 07:00-13:30, Sun closed Airport "Nikola Tesla"tel. +381 11 20 97 828 info-aerodrom@serbia.travel 4Open 09:00-21:30

Street smarts Street - Ulica Square - Trg Boulevard - Bulevar Highway - Autoput

Road - Put Quay - Kej Bridge - Most

through the line of importuning taxi sharks, waiting in ambush in front of the station building. Ignore them, and if you want a taxi, hail one a little down the street. There is a tram stop outside the station building and line N°2 circles around the very center of the city. This might be best solution if you're looking for a cheap ride. You can purchase your ticket at a kiosk before climbing aboardat a flat price of 50 dinars, or on one of the trams from the driver for 100 dinars. If the prospect of a steep, 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street and reach the very centre of the city - Terazije.

By bus

Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses which connects it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus Station, one of the ugliest structures to be seen when entering the city, lies next to the Central Railway Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply here too. The same goes for the information on how to get to the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and a left-luggage office. Located across the street, next to a small park, the arrivals area is separated from the station building. You can find a tourist information office at the nearby railway station.

By boat

The Danube River flows through Serbia, providing 588 km of navigable waterway. You can arrive in Belgrade on a Danube cruise boat or your own yacht. Via the Danube River and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, Belgrade is connected to the North Sea and the Black Sea. The passenger dock of the Belgrade Port, including the international border crossing, is located on the right bank of the Sava River, near Branko Bridge. The dock features an exchange office, ATM, a souvenir shop and a tourist information office. Belgrade Fortress is within walking distance and if you want to go elsewhere in Belgrade the easiest way is to take a taxi. You can either call one (for more info on Belgrade taxis see p. 49) or hail it in the street in front of the dock.

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Basics Disabled travellers

The Delta City and Mercator shopping malls offer facilities for people with disabilities. Pedestrian crossings on the main city arteries have sloped kerbs and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. And that, sadly, is that. Most restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offer toilet facilities to them.

Geography

Serbia takes up an area of 88,361km2. The country borders Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The Midžor peak at Stara planina (Old Mountain) is the highest in Serbia at 2,156m. The Danube flows 588km through the country, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is the Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of the Western Morava (308km) and the Southern Morava (295km). Belgrade itself lies at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube Rivers.

Health

Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable and you won‘t need to worry about their skills if you should become ill. The worrying part of the experience is the poor maintenance of state-run hospitals, which is a consequence of underfunding, and the red tape involved in getting admitted to hospital. If you have any minor health issues, it would be better to visit a private clinic so that you avoid an agonising wait.

Homosexuality

Public displays of homosexuality are largely unacceptable in Belgrade. If you are gay, you are advised not to be too affectionate in the street, because intolerant onlookers may respond with varying degrees of hostility. There are a few gay clubs in Belgrade, for more info visit www.gay-serbia.com or www.belgrade-gay.com.

Local laws & Police

Prostitution and drug use are illegal so try and stay away from these potential sources of trouble. Besides, being a foreigner you may not be able to spot plain clothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches but that should not cause you any alarm.

Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)

Climate 100 90 80 70 60 50 40

Watch out for dragons when leaving the famous restaurant Šaran in Zemun

Local time

Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. When it is noon in Belgrade it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.

Money

The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a "Serbian dinar" dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000 dinars. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the city (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Belgrade will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. The first ATM in southern Europe was installed in Belgrade in the early 80s.You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and parking fees. Throughout the city, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Belgrade are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Belgrade market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.

Important phone numbers

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Police: 192 Fire Department: 193 Ambulance: 194 Road assistance: 1987 January - March 2013

Basics National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 14 January – New Year (Orthodox) 15-16 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 1-2 May - Labour Day 3-6 May - Easter (Orthodox, from Good Friday to second day of Easter) 9 May - Victory Day (Commemorative Day) 11 November - Armistice Day

On the city’s roads

As a result of a surprisingly small number of bridges, a bypass is currently under construction in Belgrade. This will be most welcome when it has been completed because with a motorway running through the centre almost, there are no normal rush hours. Instead, there are traffic jams on the major interchanges pretty much all day long. Belgraders as a rule drive fast and change lanes abruptly without signalling and they do not suffer slower drivers gladly. A yellow line which marks the right-most lane actually means the lane is reserved for public transport and taxis. Do not come too close to the curb, because some mysterious bandits seem to be operating outside the city centre and targeting manhole lids, so you run the risk of your wheel hitting the hole. In short, if you have little penchant for the Dakar Rally experience, it would be best to abandon the idea of driving round Belgrade. After all, the best way to get to know a city is on foot.

Population

Serbia’s population in 2011, excluding Kosovo and Metohija, came to 7,1 20,666, Belgrade’s in th e same year was 1,154,589. The country’s ethnic make up then,

again without considering Kosovo and Metohija, was: Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniaks 1,82%, Roma 1,44% and others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic as the official script. However the Latin script is also used just as much.

Religion

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion in Serbia. The Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are those of Islam, Catholicism and Judaism.

Smoking

Most Belgraders consider cof fee and cigarettes a per fect way to s ta r t th e d ay, s o n on -s m oke rs m ay b e i n for something of a shock. While in theor y the city has recently begun en forcing a smoking ban similar to those in many EU countries, in practice it will likely be sometime before a majorit y o f restaurants, bars and clubs are actually smokefree. However, the smoking ban is more or less respec ted in pu bli c premises (i e banks, post o f fi ces, hospitals, etc).

Toilets

Public toilets in downtown Belgrade are extremely hard to find. There are none at the Belgrade Fortress and the nearest one is in Kalemegdan Park. The existing ones are fairly decent, free and can be found in large parks. They are open from 07:00 - 23:00. If you need to use the toilet whilst strolling around the city, you can go to one in a nearby café or restaurant, or a public garage.

Visas

If you are a citizen of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Russia, Japan, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Macedonia, Tunisia, Singapore, Mexico, Bolivia, New Zealand or the Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and can stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs C-3, Kneza Miloša 24 -26, tel. (+381) 11 306 82 68 or Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners) B-3, Savska 35, tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

Safety

The residence of Princess Ljubica is the most representative example of early 19th century architecture in the city

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Belgrade is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the city where a girl cannot be out on her own in the middle of the night. There are other hazards that you should be aware of when you are in in the city, though. While you are strolling round the Old Town, beware of the bits and pieces that may fall of f the old buildings waiting their turn for restoration. At the same time, you should tread carefully (particularly on Svetogorska, Vlajkovićeva, Palmotićeva and Hilandarska Streets) because irresponsible dog owners hardly ever clean up after their pets, leaving behind a veritable minefield of muck. There are stray dogs too, but they generally mind their own business and don’t cause anyone any bother.

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history 7000 BC Neolithic settlement established. 279 BC First mention of Singidunum, the original name of the city. Founded by the Scordisci, a Celtic tribe. 86 AD HQ of the 4th Roman Legion Flavia Felix. 395 The Roman Empire splits into two and Singidunum becomes a part of the Eastern Roman Empire. Strategically located on the northwestern border, it is exposed to diverse cultural in fluences and is a magnet for ever y aspiring conqueror. 4 41- 827 Invaded and ravaged successively by Huns, Sarmatians, Goths, Gepidaes, Avars, Slavs, the Byzantine Empire, and Bulgaria. Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans in the 6th century. Slavs embrace Christianity in the 9th century. 878 First mention of the Slavic name of the city - Belgrade. Pope John VIII writes a letter to Bulgarian Prince Boris I Mihail, informing him about the dismissal of Bishop of Belgrade for debauchery. 896 -1232 Belgrade is a battleground between rivals Hungary and the Byzantine Empire, it changes hands eight times. Once seized by Bulgaria and twice ransacked by Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem. 1 166 Creating an independent Serbian state, S te fan Nemanja asserts himself as the Grand Prince of Serbs. He’s also a founder of the Nemanjić dynasty and crowned King of the Serbs by the Pope. 1219 Serbian Orthodox Church gains independence. 12 84 King Stefan Dragutin receives Belgrade from Hungary as a gift - this is the first time that the city passes to Serbian rule. 1346 King Stefan Dušan of the Nemanjić house is crowned Emperor of Serbs and Greeks. Following his demise, the empire dissolves and Serbian noblemen create their own states. 1389 Battle of Kosovo. Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović rallies Serbian noblemen to stand up against Turkish expansion into Europe. Europe celebrates the victory of Christianity because of the death of the Turkish sultan and the Turkish retreat. On the other hand Serbia cannot recover from the defeat as most of its nobility, including Prince Lazar, perish in the battle. He is succeeded by his underage son Stefan Lazarević, who becomes a Turkish vassal. 1403 Despot Stefan Lazarević receives Belgrade from Hungary, rebuilds it and makes it the capital of Serbia. 1427 Following the death of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Hungary reclaims Belgrade. 1440 Sultan Murad II lays siege to Belgrade with 100,000 Turkish soldiers and 200 ships. The city survives the siege following a fierce struggle. 1456 Sultan Mehmed II besieges Belgrade with 150,000 soldiers. Th e Turks li f t th e siege wh en th eir Sul tan is wounded. 1459 The Turks conquer the Serbian capital of Smederevo; which marks the beginning of a five- century long Turkish domination over Serbia. 1521 Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent captures Belgrade with 300,000 soldiers, and deports the entire population to Istanbul. 1688 -1791 Belgrade is occupied by Austria and Turkey six times. 1804 Serbian uprising against the Turks started by Đorđe Petrović Karađorđe. 1807 Led by Karađorđe, Serbs liberate Belgrade and make it the capital of Serbia. Karađorđe is subsequently proclaimed a hereditary ruler. He founds the Karađorđević dynasty. 1813 The Turks occupy Belgrade; the uprising is crushed; Karađorđe flees Serbia. 1815 Miloš Obrenović leads the Second Serbian Uprising. Serbia is offered partial autonomy. 1817 Karađorđe is murdered on his return to Serbia, on the orders of Miloš Obrenović. 1830 Turkey grants autonomy to Serbia. Miloš Obrenović is acknowledged as hereditary Prince. He founds the Obrenović dynasty.

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1862 The murder of a Serbian boy triggers a clash between Serbian and Turkish soldiers which ends in an international treaty bringing the Turkish control over Belgrade to an end. 1 867 The Turks withdraw from Belgrade. The Turkish commander hands over the keys to Belgrade Fortress to Prince Mihailo Obrenović. 1876 Serbian-Turkish war. Serbs liberate southeastern Serbia. 1878 Formal independence of Serbia recognized at the Congress of Berlin. 1882 Kingdom of Serbia proclaimed under King Milan Obrenović. 1903 Th e May Coup d’Etat. A group o f army o f ficers assassinate King Aleksandar Obrenović and Queen Draga Mašin, because their marriage is unacceptable to the public. The house of Obrenović becomes extinct and King Petar I Karađorđević (grandson to Karađorđe) claims the throne. 1912 First Balkan War pits the Balkan League (Serbia, Greece, Montenegro and Bulgaria) against the Ottoman Empire. The Turks are driven out of Kosovo and Metohija, the last occupied part of Serbia. 1913 Second Balkan War waged and won by Serbia against Bulgaria. 1914 Outbreak of World War I. Austro-Hungary shells and captures Belgrade. After the Battle of Cer and Kolubara, the first allied victories in WWI, the Serbian army liberates Belgrade and drives the Austro-Hungarian army out of Serbia. 1915 Germany and Bulgaria enter the war siding with Austro-Hungar y. G erman and Austro-Hungarian troops occupy Belgrade. This is the beginning of a three-yearlong occupation and plunder of the city. The Serbian army retreats under attack across Albania towards Greece and Cor fu Island. 1916 Recovered Serbian soldiers join the allied army on the Salonica Front. 1918 With the breakthrough on the Salonica Front, the Serbian army returns to Serbia. In WWI, there were 1,247,000 Serbian casualties, or 28% of the country’s total population. The Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state and Belgrade becomes the capital of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (later Yugoslavia). 1934 King Aleksandar visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany. During this visit he’s assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 Th e 27th March protests erupt a gainst j oinin g the A xis (Germany-Italy-Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yearold Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany bombs Belgrade on 6th April. The King and the Government go to exile. Two Serbian resistance movement - the Chetniks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s Partisans are born. Yu-

January - March 2013

HISTORY Nikola Tesla Born in the small Serbian village of Smiljan in what was then the Austrian Empire, Nikola Tesla (1856 - 1943) went on to become one of the most prolific inventors of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and revolutionise the field of electromagnetism. After originally studying electrical engineering at the Austrian Polytechnic in Graz in 1875, Tesla held a variety of positions in the cities of Maribor, Prague and Budapest, and was briefly the chief electrician of Hungary's first telephone system before moving to France to work for the Continental Edison Company in 1882. Tesla moved to the US in 1884, and was charged with completely redesigning Edison's inefficient direct current generators, but left the company after less than two years over a disagreement about pay. This led to a lifelong feud between the two inventors and the so-called War of Currents, which was won by Tesla's system of alternating current in the following decade. In 1891, Tesla established his own laboratory in New York, and went on to not only pioneer modern day electrical engineering, but also contributed greatly to the fields of wireless technology, robotics, computer science and theoretical physics. Despite his unparalleled scientific contributions, during his lifetime Tesla's genius was often overshadowed by his somewhat eccentric personality and penchant for seemingly outrageous (although sometimes entirely true) claims about future scientific and technological advancements. In particular, his later attempts to develop a directed-energy weapon, referred to in the press as a 'death ray', contributed greatly to his image as the proto-typical mad scientist. After his death in 1943, Tesla's ashes were taken to Belgrade, and have resided in a gold-plated spherical urn at the Nikola Tesla Museum (p.49) since 1957.

goslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and the Independent State of Croatia. 1944 Belgrade is repeatedly bombed by the Allies. Tito’s Partisans and the Red Army liberate the city on 20th October. 1945 The human cost of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. The monarchy is abolished, the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed and JosipBroz Tito comes to power. In the post-war period, Belgrade grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince

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Aleksandar, son to King Peter II, is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1961 The first Conference of Non-Aligned Countries is held in Belgrade. 1968 Student protests are held against social inequities and bureaucracy. Soon after, hundreds of thousands of Belgraders in Nikola Pašić Square protest against the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by a ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from the Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, and, as a consequence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Belgrade for the first time in his life. 1992 The European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. The UN Security Council imposes an economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support for the Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia, who want to unite with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperinflation in history - a 500,000,000, 000 dinar note is printed in Belgrade. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of the Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. NATO forces bomb Serbia and Belgrade for three months, without the endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslavian succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. 2000 Slobodan Milošević is ousted amid huge protests over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on the remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 The State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. Belgrade is named City of the Future of South Europe by the Financial Times. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians over the status of Kosovo are held. Serbia of fers broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With the support of the USA and some EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and the Metohija province of Serbia declare their independence. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. The Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and strives to prevent the secession of its province through di plomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people gather in Belgrade in peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovan independence, while several hundred hooligans demolish and burn the empty US Embassy building.

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Culture & Events

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Culture & Events Event Listing Policy Our events listings are free and completely independent of paid-for advertising. If you know of an event that is of interest to an English-speaking audience, and which you would like to be published in our Culture & Events pages, please send details to belgrade@inyourpocket.com We will always do our best to list all events we recieve.

Exhibitions

23.10 Tuesday - 17.03 Sunday

Bodies Revealed

Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, info@bodies.rs, www.bodies.rs. The study of human anatomy has always operated on a basic principle: to see is to know. This same principle led Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Islamic cultures to a progressively more scientific understanding of the human form. Public dissections during the Renaissance furthered this understanding, laying the foundation for our modern medical institutions and for this Exhibition. Following this same principle - to see is to know - Bodies: The Exhibition uses dissected human specimens to provide you with a visual textbook to your own body. The specimens in this Exhibition have been treated with the dignity and respect they so richly deserve. Our bodies are indeed intricately more complex and wondrous than all the computers and gadgetry that surround us today. Yet many of us do not know what is beneath our skin - how our bodies function, what they need to survive, what destroys them, what revives them. Q Open 10:0019:00. Tickets 950 RSD, students/seniors 750 RSD, primary students 450 RSD, preschool children free.

41st Belgrade International Film Festival 22.02 Friday - 03.03 Sunday

Various Venues, www.fest.rs. The first FEST, under the slogan “A Brave New World” was opened on 9 of January 1971 in Dom Sindikata, with the screening of Robert Altman’s Mash. Envisioned as the annual review of the best films of the season, the Belgrade International Film Festival - or simply FEST - has evolved to become one of the most important festivals on the continent and a pillar event of Belgrade’s cultural life and an indispensable element in the coming of age of many generations of film amateurs. An important feature of FEST all these years was its openness to films from all parts of the world, as well as to all relevant directors and works that would never have the opportunity to be shown in cinemas comercially. Directors like Theo Angelopoulos, Bob Rafelson, Volker Schlondorff , David Cronenberg, Ken Russel, Wim Wenders, Kieslowski, Herzog had the opportunity to meet each other for the first time in Belgrade, at FEST. Since its inception, FEST has always had its main program, along with a few accompanying ones, whose quality often exceeded the expectations implied by the name ‘accompanying’. There are also many accompanying publications, exhibitions and symposiums held during the festival each year. Nevertheless, the central event always has been and remains the main program, followed by the competition program “Europe out of Europe”, which has been in existence for the last couple of years. This year’s event will once again feature the latest works from some of the biggest names in world cinema, including Ken Loach (The Angel’s Share), Woody Allen (To Rome with Love), Steven Spielberg (Lincoln), Robert Redford (The Company You Keep), Bernardo Bertolucci (Me and You), Iran’s Abbas Kiarostami (Like Someone in Love), and Michael Henke’s Love, which will officially open the festival. Films will be shown in five theaters. Traditionally at the Sava Center, Belgrade Youth hall, Hall of Cultural Center, the Cinematheque and the first time at Fontana cinema. Ticket go on sale on 1 February, with a 10% discount during the first week.

06.11 Tuesday - 31.01 Thursday

New Themes & Ideas Serbian Ceramic Arts After 2000

Museum of Applied Art, Vuka Karadžića 18, www.mpu. rs. In recent years, modern Serbian ceramic art has been defined by the appearance of artists who managed to achieve a very noticeable, almost enviable careers, and become indispensable to many landmark exhibitions, not only in Serbia but also in the broader regional and international context. This fact can be explained by the creative activity of the artists who have become aware of the importance of new technologies and media in the field of contemporary art today. Their activity, but also some very bold, radical artistic and mature works, has contributed to the revival of this art space. In the exhibition catalog, Biljana Vukotić writes: “The aim of the exhibition is to provide a comprehensive overview of contemporary Serbian art pottery, even if it is understood in the narrow sense, confined to the middle and younger generation of artists, but the separation and critical analysis of individual authors’ positions emphasize the skills transfer from one medium to another, demonstrating the priority of the idea, part of a formal structure, high capacity and skills in materials.” Q Open Tues-Sat 11:00-19:00. Closed Sun-Mon.

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Culture & Events 01.12 Saturday - 03.03 Sunday

Yugoslavia From Start to Finish: 1919-1990

Museum of Yugoslav History, Botićeva 6, www.mij.rs. This comprehensive exhibition will form the basis of future permanent collection at the Museum of Yugoslav History. The concept of the exhibition consists of 10 phenomena, which are divided into headings such as the YugoslaviaID Card, the Territory of State Symbols, Assassinations, the Peoples of Yugoslavia, the Face of the Regime, and the End of Yugoslavia. The idea was not to simply show chronological events, but to present the most important phenomena and elements that marked the countries and societies that were united under the name of Yugoslavia for more than 70 years. Work on the new permanent exhibition of the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia began in 2009 with public consultations and a conference The New Old Museum, which included a lot of discussions and workshops attended by experts from various fields. This was followed by work with an international team to arrive at the concept of the exhibition. The central aim of the exhibition is to create a modern and attractive space to objectively introduce visitors to one of the most interesting and controversial experiments of 20th century nation building.

XIV International Guitar Art Festival 12.03 Tuesday - 17.03 Sunday

Various venues, info@gaf.rs, www.gaf.rs. Guitar Art Festival was founded in 2000 and today represents a professional and expert event that gathers classical guitarists of all kinds: amateurs, primary and secondary music schools pupils, students, as well as their teachers and professors and eminent guests, leading world guitarists. Tuesday, 12 March Venue: Kombank Arena 20:00 - Joaquiín Cortés

15.01 Tuesday - 25.01 Friday

Gordana Hajnović: Sounds of Silence

Galerija Singidunum, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. +381 (0)11 2185 323, www.ulupuds.org.rs. In this exhibition of large scale black and white photographs, all of which were created in the past four years, the artist Gordana Hajnović attempts to conduct a very challenging study of the human subconscious, the hidden and still mysterious space of the psyche, which will arguably never full be explored. The aim of the photo series is show the inner world of man, including emotions (happiness, sadness, fear, anger, etc) and various states of mind that are often invisible and hidden from others by the human body and facial expressions.

29.01 Tuesday - 08.02 Friday

Vladimir Kovač: Fragmentation

Galerija Singidunum, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. +381 (0)11 2185 323, www.ulupuds.org.rs. The exhibition is the final result of a lengthy analytical study on the visual detection of graphical forms, the entire image of which forms different letters of both the Cyrillic and Latin alphabets. The focus is on the former characters, as this has a way of putting emphasis on the authenticity and graphic potential of certain Cyrillic characters.

Festivals

30.01 Wednesday - 03.02 Sunday

9th Festival of European Documentary Films

Sava Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, www.magnificent7festival.org. Dubbed the Magnificent 7, the ninth edition of the Festival of European Documentary Films will be held at the Sava Centre, and as in previous years Belgrade audiences will have the opportunity to see seven of the best of European cinema documentaries that are currently showing at major festivals around the world. The main aim of the festival is to help focus the attention and glamour that is usually reserved for feature films on documentaries, and to make sure that each of the seven documentaries is experienced as an extraordinary cinematic event with the maximum attention of both audiences and the media. This year the programme of

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Wednesday, 13 March Venue: Atrium Of National Museum 20:00 - Francisco Morais Franco 21:00 - Alvaro Pierri 22:00 - Balkan Stings Thursday, 14 March Venue: Atrium Of National Museum 20:00 - Sabrina Vlaškalić 21:00 - Giulio Tampalini 22:00 - Taurus Duo Friday, 15 March Venue: Atrium Of National Museum 20:00 - Marko Topchii 21:00 - Goran Listeš 22:00 - Goryachev Grisha Saturday, 16 March 16 Venue: Sava Centre 21:00 - The Beatles On Sunday, 17 March Venue: Kolarac Foundation Hall 19:30 - Closing Ceremony & Presenting The Awards 20:00 - Edin Karamazov & No Borders Orchestra

Q Ticket prices vary between 590-2990 RSD for individual shows. the festival will also consists of master classes during which young filmmakers and film students from Serbia and the region will have the opportunity to communicate directly with prominent guests, including the directors of the seven magnificent films.

January - March 2013

Culture & Events Special events 22.01 Tuesday

Rene Descartes: Metaphysical Meditations

French Institute, Knez Mihailova 31, www.institutfrancais.rs. In his metaphysical meditations, which were first published in Latin in 1641 and subsequently in French in 1647, Rene Descartes took to the geometric method to prove the existence of God, and to show that God supports the new mechanical science. During this endeavor, it is said that Descartes’ rational soul separated from the material body and allowed him to come to the conclusion that would become an emblem of the modern era: “I think, therefore I am.” The apparent simplicity of this thought summarizes the complex self-consciousness, and facilitated the development of natural science, bringing forward the people of Europe, who at that time were obsessed with theological issues. A reading of and lecture on Meditations is being sponsored by the French embassy to mark the groundbreaking work’s first translation into Serbian. Q 18:00.

20.03 Wednesday - 29.03 Friday

43rd International Competition of Youth Musicians

Various Venues. Founded in order to support the most talented young musicians at the beginning of their professional careers, since it first began in 1971 the International Youth Music Competition has taken place in Belgrade without interruption 42 times. The competition takes place across several disciplines, which are in regular intervals, and include the piano, cello, guitar, violin, wind instruments (flute, clarinet, oboe) and solo vocals. In this way, the talented performers, who are all under 30 years of age, have the opportunity to compete in multiple areas. This year’s opening ceremony will be held on 20 March at the Ilija M Kolarac Foundation, and will be headlined by the winner of the 2012 competition, clarinettist Stojan Krkuleski of Serbia, and also feature performances of this year’s competitors, as well as jury members. The final evening will be held at the National Theatre on 29 March, when awards will be announced and the winner will have a solo performance.

07.02 Thursday - 10.02 Sunday

Disney Live! Presents Mickey’s Magic Show

Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, www.kombankarena.rs. One of the most magical shows on ice comes to Belgrade’s Kombank Arena this February, with seven enchanting performances over four days (and nights). Legendary scenes from Disney’s most famous films come to life right before the audiences’ eyes: Cinderella’s rags turn into a beautiful ball gown in a split second; Princess Jasmine levitates into the air; and the enchanted dancing brooms from Fantasia literally sweep Minnie off of her feet. Of course the master of the show is Mickey Mouse, who performs a series of astonishing magical acts with the help of master illusionist Michael Barron. The production value and stagecraft of the show make it the perfect event for families to enjoy together. No matter if they are on stage or in their seats, children are given an unforgettable experience as magician’s helpers during the performance. Amidst a show jam-packed with surprises and spectacle, audiences learn to find the magic inside as they take part in a revolutionary blend of captivating magic.

19.02 Tuesday

Imperial Ice Stars - Swan Lake

Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, www.kombankarena.rs. On their first tour of Swan Lake from 2006-2008, the Imperial Ice Stars received standing ovations from audiences in 15 countries around the world, winning multiple awards and rave reviews for their adrenaline-infused performances. For their current tour, which began in 2010, the same team is at it again, this time with a dynamic new interpretation of the award-winning masterpiece. The show features exhilarating new choreography from artistic director Tony Mercer, who is widely regarded as the world’s foremost creator of theatre on ice, as well as new visual effects and costumes. The performers themselves are the also amongst the very best skaters in the world, with more than 250 competition medals amongst them, and they continue to break new ground in the genre of ice dancing with their daring and graceful feats. Whether or not you’ve seen Swan Lake before, this dramatic new interpretation of one of the world’s most popular ballets will have you on the edge of your seat.

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05.04 Friday - 19.04 Friday

10th Belgrade Dance Festival

Various Venues, www.belgradedancefestival.com. Celebrating a decade of existence, the Belgrade Dance Festival boasts a prominent position amongst the best European and international dance events. Due in large part to the festival, in recent years Belgrade has become known as an important place for some of the world’s top ballet dancers, and each April the city hosts performances of new and iconic dance pieces. Domestic audiences have been able to attend the premieres of more than 120 top performances, meet the most important contemporary choreographers, and discover dance productions at the same time as other major cultural cities. Moreover, the festival has established standards of contemporary dance and theatre aesthetics, as well as displayed artistic highlights of dance, provided genuine support for local professional dancers, instructors, choreographers and young ballet talents.

Music

14.02 Thursday

Josipa Lisac

Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. +381 (0)11 220 60 60, www.savacentar.net. Josipa Lisac is a renowned singer whose unique interpretations and stage presence have left a strong mark on the Croatian musical scene. Her unique singing style, developed over her more than four decades long career, continues to gain in its distinctive originality. This year she will celebrate Valentine’s Day (and her 63rd birthday) by performing for a sure to be full house in the grand hall of the Sava Centar in Belgrade. The occasion will also mark the 40th anniversary of the release of her timeless debut album, the Diary of a Love.

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Culture & Events A Coffee with Princess Ljubica

Fairs & Conferences 08.02 Friday

2nd Social Welfare Fair

Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, www. sajam.co.rs. The Social Welfare Fair is a non-profit project implemented by the Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs and various partners. Providers of social services from throughout Serbia will take part and present the results, best practices, and planned activities for improvement in the area of their work. Interested visitors will be able to, through the material which is available at the fair, learn about the social security system and its service providers. Residence of Princess Ljubica, Kneza Sime Markovića, tel. +381 (0)11 2638 264, office@ mgb.org.rs, www.mgb.org.rs. Organised by the Belgrade City Museum, A Coffee with Princess Ljubica is a special progamme meant to present the Residence of Princess Ljubica and life in Belgrade during the rule of the Obrenović dynasty. A curator of the Belgrade City Museum, Nataša Popovska, will meet you as the hostess of the Residence, dressed in the early 19th-century costume. Along with the underlying historical story, you can hear interesting details about the private life of the ruling family, dressing habits of the wives of Serbian rulers, their domestic economy, approach to raising their children, their intricate head adornments, and much much more. During the visit, you will of course be offered coffee and homemade lokum (Turkish delight). For this occasion, the Divankhana, the central room in the Residence where guests were received, is open to visitors. Serbian language tours are scheduled for 12:00 every Saturday, while group tours in English for more than 10 people must be booked in advance. Q Admission 250 RSD (Serbian language), 500 RSD (English).

14.02 Thursday

Sergej Ćetković

Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, www. kombankarena.rs. Hailing from the Montenegrin capital Podgorica, Sergej Četković broke into the music business when he was only seven years old as a member of the the children’s group Vatrena Srca (or Passionate Hearts) in the mid-1980s. After making his solo debut in 1998, Četković released several popular albums, which were followed by a series of sold out shows across Serbia and Montenegro. His latest album, 2 Minuta, was released in 2010. This Valentine’s Day, Četković will be performing at the Kombank Arena, and has promised audiences a big surprise to mark the occasion.

23.03 Saturday

Riblja Čorba

Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, www.kombankarena.rs. Riblja Čorba (which is Serbian for ‘fish stew’) is one of the most famous rock bands of the former Yugoslavia. Formed back in 1978 in Belgrade, they reached their peak in popularity in the 1980s, but have had mixed success in recent years, due at least partly to the controversial political attitudes of the band’s leader Bora Đorđević. Known for their provocative and social themed lyrics, their performance at Kombank Arena offers a unique chance to see a living piece of ‘Yugostalgia’ live and in person. Q 20:00. Tickets 1400 - 2200 RSD.

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09.02 Saturday - 10.02 Sunday

4th Beekeeping Fair

Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, www. sajam.co.rs. Fans of honey and bees won’t want to miss the 4th annual beekeeping fair at Belgrade Fairgrounds, which will feature a combination of exhibitions, educational programmes, commercial activities and tourism-related events. Beekeepers and beekeeping equipment manufacturers will present their products and offer the best possible prices.

21.02 Thursday - 24.02 Sunday

35th International Tourism Fair

B-3, Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, tel. +381 (0)11 2655 377, fax +381 (0)11 2655 722, turizam@sajam.rs, www.beogradskisajamturizma. rs. During the four days of the Tourism Fair, there are many events and nearly exhibitors from all over the world present their countries, companies and products to some 60,000 visitors. More specifically, they include National and Regional Tourist Organizations, Tourist Industry Associations, Tour Operators, Travel Agencies, Spas and Health Care Tourism, tourist attractions, accommodation, catering, hotel and catering equipment, hunting, fishing, river and lake tourism, traffic, media, the Internet technology in tourism, booking systems and many more. Insurance companies and banks also increasingly participate in the Fair. In 2003 the event was recognised as a member of the European Tourism Trade Fairs Association (ETTFA), which later on turned into the International Tourism Trade Fairs Association (ITTFA). Over the years the fair has received many awards for excellence and is the most successful tourist event in Serbia.

4th BEO Wine Fair B-3, Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, tel. +381 (0)11 2655 377, fax +381 (0)11 2655 722, www.sajam.co.rs. Now in it’s fourth year, the Wine Fair is a relatively new event at Belgrade Fair, featuring one of the fastest growing sectors in Serbia - wine production and distribution. Wine tourism is also promoted intensively at the Wine Fair, which takes place concurrently with the International Tourism Fair, a testament to the increasing importance of wine to the wider tourism industry. The most prominent local and regional wine manufacturers, wine cellars, wine companies and distributors take part, and compete for several awards, including Best Local Wine, Best Wine at the Wine Fair and a Sommelier Competition. There are also auction-style wine sales, and many tastings are organised at the exhibitors’ stands daily. January - March 2013

Culture & Events

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Culture & Events

An afternoon at the Museum of Natural History is time well spent.

Art galleries

25. maj Gallery Botićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 85, info@mij.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon.

Arte Galerija C-2, Svetogorska 29, tel. (+381)

11 324 39 96, info@artemedia.rs, www.arte.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 21:00 Artget C-2, Trg Republike 5/I, tel. (+381) 11 262 29 26, www.kcb.co.rs. 4 Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Beograd Gallery B -2, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. (+381) 11 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Cvijeta Zuzorić Art Pavilion C-1, Kalemegdan 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 15 85, www.ulus-art.org 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Diplomatic club Gallery Bulevar oslobođenja 317, tel. (+381) 11 309 50 00. 4 Open 08:00 22:00 Euroart Gallery C-2, Makedonska 30 (Eurocentar), tel. (+381) 11 337 33 74. 4 Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun FLU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. (+381) 11 263 06 35, galerijaflu@flu.bg.ac.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun Belgrade City Library Gallery C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 11. 4 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Gallery 212 C-2, Vlajkovićeva 25, tel. (+381) 11 337 32 99, galerija212@gmail.com, galerija@ galerija212.co.rs, www.galerija212.co.rs. 4 Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun G r a f i č k i ko l e k t i v , O b i l i ć ev ve n a c 27, t e l . (+381) 11 328 59 23, graficki@eunet.rs, www. grafickikolektiv.org 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:0016:00, Closed Sun Haos C-2, Dositejeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 97, www.gallerychaos.com. 4 Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun

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Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Gallery C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 73,office@ kolarac.rs, www.kolarac.rs 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun KCB Art Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. (+381) 11 328 64 87, www.kcb.org.rs 4Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Magacin C-2, Kraljevića Marka 4, , magacinukm@ gmail.com, info@domomladine.org, www.domomladine. org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00 New Moment Galler y C -2, Hilandarska 1 4, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92, office@newmoment.com, www. newmoment.com. 4Open 09:00 - 18:00 O3one Gallery C-2, Andrićev venac 12, tel. (+381) 11 323 87 89, info@o3one.rs, www.o3one.rs 4 Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 14:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Progres Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 10, tel. (+381) 11 218 26 26, galerija@progres.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Remont C-2, Makedonska 5/III, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 06, www.remont.net 4 Open 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun RTS Gallery C-2, Takovska 10, (+381) 11 321 18 33. 4 Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art C-1, Pariska 14, tel. (+381) 11 263 09 40, www.msub.org. rs. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue SANU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 334 24 00, galerija.sanu@ sanu.ac.rs, www.sanu.ac.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun Singidunum Gallery C -2, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. (+381) 11 218 53 23, singidunum@ulupuds.org.rs, www.ulupuds.org.rs. 4 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun SKC Gallery C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 68, www.skc.org.rs. 4 Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Street Gallery C-2, Terazije 27 - Bezistan, (+381) 60 01 23 189, www.mikroart.rs4 Open 00:00 - 24:00 January - March 2013

Culture & Events Ticket agents

Venues

Bilet servis C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. (+381) 11

Artget gallery C-2, Trg Republike 5 Belgrade Arena A-2, Bulevar

303 33 11, www.biletservis.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 20:00, Closed Sun. Eventim C-2, Topličin venac 19-21, tel. (+381) 11 328 10 25, www.eventim-yu.com. 4Open 08:00 21:00, Saturday 10:30 - 18:00, Closed Sun. Ticketline C-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music Store), tel. (+381) 11 203 05 70, www.ticketline. co.rs. 4Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

StaraKapetanijaGallery,Kejoslobođenja 8 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 261 20 23. 4 Open 11:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon SULUJ Gallery C-2, Terazije 26/II, tel. (+381) 11 268 57 80, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs. 4 Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun ULUS Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. (+381) 11 262 31 28, www.ulus-art.org 4 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Zvono Gallery C-1, Višnjićeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 262 52 43, www.galerijazvono.org. 4 Open 12:00 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun

Cinemas

Akademija 28 C-3, Nemanjina 28, tel. (+381) 11

361 60 20 DKC C-2, Kolarčeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 74 Dom sindikata C-2, Dečanska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49 Jadran 2K DPL C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11 664 20 57 Kolosej B-2, Ušće shopping center, tel. (+381) 11 285 44 95 Museum Art cinema C-1, Uzun Mirkova 2, tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88 Museum of Yugoslav Film Archives C-2, Kosovska 11, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50 Palas Šumadija, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 355 54 65 Roda cineplex, Požeška 83a, tel. (+381) 11 254 52 60 Ster cineplex, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 220 34 00 Tuckwood Cineplex C-2, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. (+381) 11 323 65 17

Theatres

Atelje 212 (drama, comedy) C-2, Svetogorska 21, tel. (+381) 11 324 73 42, www.atelje212.rs BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre (dra ma) D - 3, Mileševska 64a, tel. (+381) 11 283 70 00, www.bdp.rs Bitef Theatre (modern dance) C - 2 , S k ver M ir e Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 11 322 0608, www.bitef.rs Belgrade In Your Pocket

Arsenija Čarnojevića 58,tel.(+381) 11 220 22 22, www. arenabeograd.com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, www.sajam.co.rs

B e l g ra de P h i l h a r mon i c Or c h e s t ra C - 2 , Studentski trg 11 , tel. (+381) 11 328 29 77, www.bgf.co.rs

Belgrade Public Bath Cara Dušana 45 Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C -2,

Makedonska 22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www. domomladine.org Dom sindikata C-2, Dečanska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49 Expo XXI Centre A-2, Španskih boraca 74A, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Guarneriuss C -2, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. (+381) 11 334 52 37, www.guarnerius.rs KCB Art gallery Knez Mihailova 6 Ko l a r a c (I l i j a M . Ko l a r a c F o u n d a t i o n) C - 2 , Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 73, www. kolarac.rs KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. (+381) 11 305 50 70 Legacy House C-2, Knez Mihailova 46 Magacin Kraljevića Marka 4 New Belgrade Sport Hall Pariske komune 20 Pionir Sports Centre D -2, Čarlija Čaplina 39 Rex Cultural Centre C -1 , Jevrejska 16, tel. (+381) 11 328 45 34, www.rex.b92.net Sava Centre B -2 , Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 60, www.savacentar.com SKC (Student Cultural Centre) C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 360 20 11, www.skc.org.rs Tašmajdan Stadium C-2, Beogradska 71 Museum of Yugoslav History Botićeva 6

Boško Buha Theatre (children’s theatre and eve-

ning stage) C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11 263 28 55, www.boskobuha.rs Dadov (youth and alternative theatre) C-2, Desanke Maksimović 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 43, www. dadov.rs Duško Radović (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Aberdareva 1, tel. (+381) 11 323 20 72, www. malopozoriste.co.rs JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre (drama) C-3, Kralja Milana 50, tel. (+381) 11 306 19 00, www.jdp.co.rs Madlenianum Opera and Theatre (opera, ballet, drama), Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 25 33, www.madlenianum.rs National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C-2, Francuska 3, tel.(+381) 11 262 09 46, www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs Pinokio (children’s puppet theatre), Karađorđeva 9 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 269 17 15, www. ptpinokio.com Puž (children’s theatre) D-3, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. (+381) 11 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com Slavija Theatre (comedy) C-3, Svetog Save 16, tel. (+381) 11 243 69 95, www.pozoriste-slavija.co.rs Terazije Theatre (musical, ballet) C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel. (+381) 11 330 26 50, www.pozoristeterazije.com Zvezdara Theatre (drama, comedy), Milana Rakića 38; Tel: (+381) 11 241 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.rs

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Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Belgrade could easily do with more hotels, in every category. There are days, on big international events, when there are no rooms to be had in Belgrade, not for love or money. If you seek comfort and luxury, there is an array of hotels built over the past ten years, well worth their price tags. On the budget end, you can get a nice and cheap cabin in a floating hostel moored in the Danube, offering a great view of an island providing refuge for 196 bird species. You should be ware of some of the old hotels, where the time seems to have stopped in late eighties, for better or for worse.

Over €150

Crystal C-3, Internacionalnih Brigada 9, tel. (+381) 11

71 51 000, fax (+381) 11 71 51 005, info@crystalhotel. rs, www.crystalhotel.rs. One of Belgrade’s new ultra-modern business hotels, few other accommodation options in town can rival Crystal in terms of either comfort or price. Located in the leafy Neimar neighbourhood just south of Slavija Square and the imposing St Sava Temple, it manages to offer a relaxing atmosphere as well as easy access to the city’s main sites, business centres and the road to the airport. Recommended for those who can afford it. 4 44 rooms (25 doubles €80-140, 9 suites €155-230 on weekends €130-230). PJHALKW

Evropa Sremska 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 60 17, www. hotelevropa.rs. Situated in the very heart of the city centre, the unmistakable facade of the Hotel Evropa has been a Belgrade landmark for over a century, and tells the story of its charm and metropolitan spirit. The hotel offers luxury suites (70-140m2), superior rooms (40-60m2) and standard rooms (30m2). All rooms are equipped with mini bar, high-tech audio and video equipment, free Wi-Fi and cable TV. Guests can use the spa centre, and most services are included in the basic price. An on-site conference room is also availible for business meeting or other events. 4 11 rooms (€110-150) and 8 suites (€110-330). Price include VAT and breakfast. PHA6ULGKDW Holiday Inn Španskih Boraca 74, tel. (+381) 11 310 00 00, fax (+381) 11 310 01 00, www.holidayinn.com. A new, modern hotel, opened in 2007 and positioned next to the railway tracks in a section of New Belgrade that is still under construction, it is ideal for people on business since it has a business centre, 14 meeting and conference rooms, and the Expo XXI International Centre is adjacent to the hotel. 4 140 rooms (singles €180, doubles €205, 1 suite €250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHA6UF GKD Hyatt Regency Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381)

11 301 12 34, fax (+381) 11 311 22 34, belgrade. regency@hyatt.com, www.belgrade.regency.hyatt. com. Situated between the Sava Congress Centre and Ušće Business Centre, it is the most luxurious hotel in Belgrade, with efficient and professional service, ideal for all types of meetings and events. Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center

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Ride to your hotel in style is the perfect environment for guests to relax, to be pampered and to find a peaceful moment away from tension and stress. The Tea House is exclusive and favourite Belgrade meeting spot, offering cosy and relaxed atmosphere for both business and private meetings. 4 302 rooms and suites (rooms €187-337, executive suit €327-477, diplomatic suite €1187-1337, presidential suite €1487-1637). Prices include breakfast (buffet). VAT and tourist tax not included. PTHAUFLGKDCW

In Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. (+381) 11

310 53 00, fax (+381) 11 310 53 51, frontoffice@ inhotelbelgrade. rs, www.inhotel-belgrade.com. A relatively new hotel opened in 2006 and located right off the main thoroughfare in close proximity to the Belgrade Arena. The rooms are spacious, decorated in light colours and with modern furniture. An interesting feature is the glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the room. The Rooftop Bar and Lounge is an attractive spot for enjoying cocktails in the sun. The hotel is perfect for business people because it includes conference rooms and a business centre, as well as a fitness centre with a relaxation massage option. 4 187 rooms and 28 suites (90 singles €165, 66 doubles €185, suites €220- 290). PHA6UFLGKDXW

Metropol Palace Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 69, tel.

+381 (0)11 333 3100, www.metropolpalace.com. Originally opened in 1957 as a triumph work of Serbian architect Dragiša Brašovan, the hotel was reopened in winter 2012 after undergoing extensive renovation and modernisation, and becoming a member of the prestigious Luxury Collection of the Starwood Hotels Group. The 5-star beauty now stands as a testament to Belgrade’s past, present and future status as the centre of southeastern Europe, with over luxurious 200 rooms and suites at the eastern edge of Tašmajdan Park. Even non-guests are encouraged to stop by for Sunday brunch, or even better, a drink in the lobby bar. 4 PJHARFLKDCW

January - March 2013

Where to stay Townhouse 27 C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 29 00, www.townhouse27.com. A new and exclusive boutique hotel in the old city centre, a few steps away from the Republic Square and Knez Mihailova street. Charasterised by modern architecture and minimalist interior design, each room has a high-speed Internet, Espresso machine and Bang&Olufsen flat screen TV. All rooms are non-smoking. The suites will satisfy various indulgencies and the Presidential suite is furnished with a jacuzzi. There is also an option to merge two units into one large family apartment.Garage and car wash are available. 411 rooms and 9 suites (singles €133-190, doubles €163-220). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHA6GKW Villa Jelena Generala Sturma 1a, tel. (+381) 11 30 66

One of the rooms at the newly opened Belgrade Boutique House

Mr President C -2, Karađorđeva 75, tel. (+381) 11 360 22 22, www.hotelmrpresident.com. A new, recentlyopened hotel, situated in a modern glass building across from the central railway and bus stations, it’s already well-known for its portraits of famous world statesmen and dictators in each room. The interior design of the hotel is somewhat exaggerated and accented by colourful, neon lighting. The rooms are clean and furnished in a modern style, but are somewhat lacking in daylight. 4 61 rooms and 10 suites (singles €69-89, doubles €94-114, single suites €99-119, double suites €124-144). Prices include VAT and breakfast. P A LGK XW President Zrenjaninski Put 170, tel. (+381) 11 207 52 00, prodaja@president-belgrade.com, www. president-belgrade.com. A small, lavishly furnished hotel, located in the Kovilovo Sports Centre, 12km from the centre of the city. Far from any city noise, the compound stretches over 26 hectares of park land and is surrounded by a 100 hectare woodland area which is ideal for bird-watching. The compound includes one of the best shooting ranges for clay targets in Europe, tennis courts, a sporting and hunting equipment shop, a shooting school, as well as dog kennels too. 4 17 rooms and 10 suites (singles €75-105, doubles €110-135, junior suite €130170, superior suite €150-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PTH A 6FLGKDCW Square Nine Studentski Trg 9, tel. (+381) 11 3333

500, info@squarenine.rs, www.squarenine.rs. Born from the owner’s desire to be part of Belgrade’s 21st century renaissance, impressing a luxurious but more familiar character to the city, upon opening in 2011 Square Nine instantly became one of Serbia’s top addresses. Breathtaking both inside and out, the interior design applies materials such as stone, bronze mirrors and wood claddings, both light and dark coloured, while the 45 rooms feature Brazilian cumaru wood, linen wallpaper and spacious limestone bathrooms with deep tubs and rain showers. Not to be outdone, the hotel’s wellness centre features an 18-meter lap pool that is sunwashed via a light wall and lined with comfortable loungers. 4 34 rooms and 11 suites. Contact for current prices.

Belgrade In Your Pocket

521, fax (+381) 11 36 70 575, info@vila-jelena.com, www.vila-jelena.com. Located in a quiet leafy neighbourhood just south of the city centre, the newly opened Villa Jelen is unlike any other Belgrade. Offering ten luxurious rooms, as well as full conference and events facilities that can accommodate up to 500 guests, the premises also include two restaurants and a fitness centre. Each exquisitely decorated suite is individually designed and named after various artists and composers. Special offers are available for conference, weekend and wedding stays. 4 10 rooms (premium €200, deluxe €250, superior €270). PHARFLK

Zira Ruzveltova 35, tel. (+381) 11 331 48 00, www.

zirahotels.com. The rooms in this hotel are designed in a contemporary style and equipped with the latest technology. The staff members are young and eager to prove themselves, and the food in the restaurant is prepared by an experienced Italian chef. The hotel has a spacious underground garage and direct access to the Zira Shopping Mall and large supermarket. Walks to the centre of the city are recommended only to the very enthusiastic - others will have to rely on taxis. 4 119 rooms and 8 suites (doubles €90-120, suite €132-174). Price include breakfast (English). VAT not included. PAUFLGKX

Zlatnik Dobanovačka 95, tel. (+381) 316 75 11, fax

316 72 35, office@hotelzlatnik.com, www.hotelzlatnik. com. Small and oozing with comfort, the hotel is located 7km from the city centre, on a peaceful street in Zemun. The hotel was built as an extension to a well-known restaurant which has some of the best cuisines in town. It is renowned for its high-quality service, and is ideal for business people seeking a peaceful rest far from the hustle and bustle of city life. 4 33 rooms and 4 suites (singles €115-130, doubles €156-170, junior suite €170-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTHALGK

€100-150

Balkan C-2, Prizrenska 2, tel. (+381) 11 363 60 00, rezervacije@balkanhotel.net, www.balkanhotel.net. Constructed in 1935 and recently renovated, it is located on Terazije Square, in the heart of the city. The rooms are clean, if a little cramped and basic, but they boast an exceptional view of the busy city centre. The pleasant ground floor level Orient Express restaurant features international specialities from Paris ti Istanbul, with unique interior design reflecting the Orient Express era. 4 88 rooms and 8 suites (singles €130-180, doubles €145-230, suites €130-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTAGK

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Where to stay

Belgrade Art Hotel C-2, Knez Mihailova 27, tel. (+381) 11 3312 000, fax (+381) 11 3312 099, info@ belgradearthotel.com, www.belgradearthotel.com. This recently-opened business hotel occupies some prime real estate on Belgrade’s famous pedestrian street Knez Mihailova. In addition to the standard four-star amenities, the site boasts a sauna and small fitness centre, as well as a trendy restaurant and lounge bar located on the first floor. The rooms offer great views of the action below, with the added benefit of soundproof windows to guarantee a quiet night’s sleep. Recommended. 4 50 rooms (singles €115- 135, doubles €130-150). PJHA RFLKDW Best Western M Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. (+381) 11 309 04 01, fax (+381) 11 309 05 01, office@ hotel-m.com, www.hotel-m.com. The hotel is in a rather peaceful part of town, in a forest park area near the highway and the Red Star and Partizan football stadiums, 15 minutes by car from the city centre. It is renowned for its good service, which means that the customers are always willing to come back for more. As well as attracting business people, this hotel has also become a favourite place for athletes participating in sports events in Belgrade. Most of the rooms have a view of the woodland area.Best Western Hotel “M” exists within the Company T.P. Mladost-turist a.d. Belgrade. 4 130 rooms, 42 premier rooms and 8 suites (singles from €75, doubles from €105, premier room suite, from €135). PTH AUGK XW Best Western Šumadija Šumadijski Trg 8, tel.

(+381) 11 305 41 00, fax (+381) 11 355 43 68, office@hotelsumadija. com, www.hotelsumadija. com. Located in the Banovo Brdo section of the city,

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8km from the city centre and 2km from the Belgrade fairgrounds, it is in close proximity to both the Ada Ciganlija and Košutnjak recreational areas. The service is excellent, and the hotel has recently been renovated and adapted to suit the needs of business people. The rooms are comfortable and decorated in pastel colours. 4 97 rooms and 6 suites (singles €115-120, doubles €135, suites €160). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTH A FKDX W

Falkensteiner Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10k, tel. +381 (0)11 225 0000, reservations.belgrade@ falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. The family-run Faklensteiner hotel offers premium and accommodation for business travellers in six countries across central Europe, recently entering the Serbia market with the 170 unit Hotel Belgrade. Designed by famed architect Boris Podreka, which is his first project in his native city, the premises boast 26 suites, a half dozen large conference rooms, a business lounge and terrace on the ninth floor, and even a luxurious in-house spa centre. The modern facilities and ample amenities are complimented by excellent service, befitting of the group’s motto that every hotel guest is treated like they’re guests in your home. 4 PH A RLKD Le Petit Piaf C-2, Skadarska 34, tel. (+381) 11 303 52 52, fax (+381) 11 303 53 53, office@petitpiaf.com, www. petitpiaf.com. Founded in 2004, it is located in the heart of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija near the city centre. The rooms are light and clean, and are furnished in a modern style. The hotel also has a popular French restaurant. 4 13 rooms and 5 junior suites (singles €80-90, doubles €120, suites €100). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. P A GK January - March 2013

Where to stay

The view of Belgrade from Zvezdara Hill

Life Design C-2, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11 362 60

Prag Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. (+381) 11 321 44 44,

Majestic Obilićev venac 28, tel. (+381) 11 328 57 77, fax (+381) 11 328 49 95, office@majestic. rs, www.majestic. rs. Established in 1937, this small, comfortable hotel has a tradition of professional, highquality service. Situated in the city centre, directly off Knez Mihailova street, it is surrounded by restaurants and cafés and is is suitable for both tourists and business people. The rooms are clean, but old-fashioned. This hotel takes great pride in its King Suite, as it holds a Certificate of Approval for quality management and the HACCP system. Q 88 rooms and 7 suites (singles €50-63, doubles €90-110, suites €140). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTH A LGKXW

Prestige Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 24, tel. (+381) 11 305 74 65, info@hotelprestige.rs, www.hotelprestige. rs. An elegant hotel close to the city centre, not far from Belgrade Fair and Sava Lake, this hotel is ideal for business guests and sportsmen. The completely renovated 50 year old restaurant “Bask” o ffers national cuisine, vegeterian dishes and meals for diabetics. Parking is free of charge, and guests have access to the hotel’s and weight room fitness centre adapted for many different sports (basketball, volleyball, handball or football). 4 30 rooms, 4 suites (singles €75-90, doubles €85-125, suites €111239). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHAUFLGK

90, www.lifedesignhotel.rs. This contemporarily devised design hotel is situated in the very heart of the city. Newly built and designed in a modern fashion, the hotel has an elegant architectural plan as well as numerous services all the services expected of a four-star hotel. Located in the commercial and cultural centre of the city, it is popular with both business travellers and tourists. The décor is subtle and sophisticated, with lots of warm colours and aesthetic diversity. Highly recommended. 4 58 rooms and 6 suites (doubles €90-160, suites €169-220). Price includes VAT and breakfast. PALGDW

Moskva C-2, Balkanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 268 62 55,

fax (+381) 11 268 83 89, info@hotelmoskva. rs, www. hotelmoskva.rs. This elegant hotel on Terazije Square is one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building was constructed in 1907 and is now a protected building. The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture and an impressive collection of paintings. It is also the only hotel outside Russia which bears the name ‘Moscow’. For many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, and some of the famous cakes. 4 130 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77-140, doubles €99-150, suites €330). Prices include VAT and English breakfast. PTA6UGKX W

Belgrade In Your Pocket

fax (+381) 11 361 26 91, hotelprag@sezampro.rs, www.hotelprag.co.rs. Housed in a protected building that dates from 1929, this hotel is excellently located given that it is only 5 minutes away from the central railway and bus stations and only two minutes away from the very heart of the city. Key facilities in the place - such as the reception area and restaurant - have been renovated recently and the rooms have also been given face-lifts. The staff are friendly and ready to respond to any queries and concerns and a rooms are equipped with all the modern amenities guests can expect from 21st century hotel. 4 82 rooms (singles €79-92, doubles €106, triples €117-129, suites €157-192). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHAGK

Rezime Apartmets Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. (+381) 11 328 57 02, office@rezimeapartments.com, www. rezimeapartments.com. A perfect choice for anyone looking for accommodation in a quiet street in the downtown area. Housed in an authentic building which is protected as a cultural heritage site, RR offers elegantly furnished apartments (35-60 m2). There is a public garage in the close within walking distance from the hotel and Knez Mihailova street is also close by. The place is suitable for those who require peace and quiet, since entrance to the building is only for the hotel guests. 4 20 suites (Classic €115, Business €135, Residental €150). Prices include VAT and breakfast a la carte. PAW belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Townhouse 50 C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 50, tel. (+381) 11 263 00 52, fax (+381) 11 263 00 44, stay@townhouse5 0. com, w w w.townhouse5 0. com. The sister location to the upmarket Townhouse 27 boutique hotel next door, Townhouse 50 is a smaller more modestly-priced alternative that offers the same excellent service and facilities, as well as a convenient city centre location. The eight rooms are a combination of doubles, studio apartments and hostel-type rooms with three beds and shared bathrooms. A sauna and fitness centre are located on the ground floor in addition to a café, and bike and scooter rentals are also available. Q 8 rooms (rooms and apartments €80/person, hostel rooms with external bathrooms €30/person). PJ A FLGDW Tulip Inn Putnik Palmira Toljatija 9, tel. (+381) 11 225 9999, (+381) 11 225 9814, fax (+381) 11 225 9888, info@tulipinnputnikbelgrade.com, www. tulipinnputnikbelgrade. com. Completely renovated in 2010, the hotel is a great business class option located in New Belgrade - and as part of the Golden Tulip Group, you can be sure that facilities and service are up to international standards. Rooms are expectedly well-equipped given the recent renovations, and the huge suites are a great value. If you’re in town for the weekend, ask for special Friday-Saturday discounted rates. 4 84 rooms and 20 suites (singles €90, doubles €100, suites €120130). PH A RUFLKDCW

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€50-100

Bali Paradizo Ugrinovački Put 72, Zemun, tel. (+381) 11 3170 860, fax (+381) 11 3170 925, hotel@bali.rs, bali.rs. This Southeast Asian-themed hotel only opened its doors back in April, making it one of the newest accommodation options in town. Located in Zemun, some 20 minutes Northwest of the city centre by car, it’s a bit removed from the action but its modern spa and fitness facilities coupled with its calming Indonesian-inspired décor practically guarantee a relaxing stay. For those without their own transporation, free transfers are provided to and from the airport, bus and railway stations. 4 16 rooms and 4 apartments (singles €60-90, doubles €100, apartments €100-150). P A FLKDW Balkan Hotel Garni B-3, Požeška 67a, tel. (+381) 11 360 02 00, reservations@balkangarni.rs, www. balkangarni. rs. Part of the ‘Balkan’ chain of hotels, the Garni is a new addition to the capital’s hospitality scene and is located just across the way from the Belgrade Fair. It’s not the easiest hotel in the city to find as it is within the confines of a shopping centre and street signs helping you get there are few and far between. Despite being in a busy part of the city, the rooms are sound proofed from the noise of the traffic outside. The hotel has a total of 24 rooms of various types and 12 have spacious balconies. All are equipped with free Wi-Fi internet connections, LCD televisions, air conditioners, telephones, safes, hair dryers, bathrobes and other add-ons.The hotel also offers free 24 hour shuttle bus service to and from the airport. 4 21 rooms and 3 suites (singles €60, doubles €75, suites €110). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTH A KW January - March 2013

Where to stay Elegance Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel. (+381) 11 207 50 00, office@hotelelegance.rs, www.hotelelgance. rs. A new hotel catering to business people, it provades a satisfactory alternative to the overbooked downtown hotels. Elegance is situated on the outskirts of Belgrade, 6 km north of the city centre, across the Danube and about 15-20 minutes by taxi provided, there are no bottlenecks on the bridge. The rooms are wel-furnished and simply designed. 4 40 rooms and 5 suites ( singles€ 36, doubles €72, suites €100). Price includes VAT and breakfast. PHAFLGKW Excelsior Kneza Miloša 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 13 81,

fax (+381) 11 323 19 51, recepcija@hotelexcelsior. rs, www.hotelexcelsior.rs. Located in the city centre, near the Parliament. ,the Excelsior first opened in 1924. It is currently being renovated so is only operating at 50 per cent capasity. The rooms are also rented out for day use. Make sure you get a room with a view of the street and the Pionirski park. 4 33 rooms (singles €44, doubles €52-63). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PAK

A snow-covered Nikola Tesla sits outside the Faculty of Electrical Engineering

Belgrade Boutique House Miloja Djaka 32, tel.

+381 (0)11 36 77 888/+381 (0)11 36 77 999, office@ bbhotel.rs, www.bbh.rs. For business travellers looking for a relaxing place to stay and easy access to the city centre and commercial districts, the newly opened Belgrade Boutique House offers just that for exceptionally good prices. The nine apartments, suites and rooms here are all modernly designed and incredibly spacious, and also have balconies facing the inner Mediterranean-style courtyard and pool area. If you’d like to arrange an in-house meeting there is a small fully equipped multimedia room, as well as full secretarial services. After a long day of work you can return here knowing that a trip to the spa and sauna facilities, or massage, awaits you. Q 9 rooms (singles €59-109, doubles €69-129). PHALDCW

BG City Hotel C-2, Savski Trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 66 44 055, bgcityhotel@yahoo.com, www.bgcityhotel. com. Freshly renovated at the end of 2009 and located on the same central square as the main train station, BG City is one of the best value options in the entire city. Housed in a beautiful neo-renaissance building with high ceilings and large rooms, all of the furnishings are new and three-star amenities come standard in every room. The top-notch service and helpful staff ensure that your stay will be a pleasurable one. Guarded parking is also available, but it’s limited so make sure to reserve a space in advance. 4 87 rooms (singles €49-65, doubles €6595, triples €115, suites €89-109). POJHAULK Boutique Hotel Tash Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11

324 35 07, info@hoteltash.com, www.hoteltash.com. Formerly a budget option, Tash has recently undergone major renovations and has reopened a boutique hotel. Although they like to play down the fact that the premises are still located within the Tajšmajdan Sports Centre, this is actually a huge benefit for those interested in using the ample sports and wellness facilities during their stay. Considering the location, amenities and size of the rooms, Tash should be considered one of the better value options in Belgrade. 410 rooms (singles €36-90, doubles €45-108, suites €180). PJA6FLKDCW

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

Garni House 46 Mileševska 46, tel. (+381) 61 309 21 82, garnihouse46@gmail.com, www.garnihouse46. com. In a quiet neighbourhood not too far removed from the city centre, but also not within walking distance, there are a handful a quite good bars and clubs nearby. The rooms are bright and airy, with all the modern amenities, although those who can’t live without a view should avoid the rooms on the ground floor at all cost, as they are partially below street level. Recommended for those who already know Belgrade and are looking for comfortable stay in a new place. 4 8 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50). PAL Kasina Terazije 25, tel. (+381) 11 323 55 74. One of the oldest hotels in town, located in the very centre, many of it’s more than 100 rooms have recently undergone much needed renovation, and are now a decent value. You can chose between rooms with a good view of the street and quieter rooms in the back section of the hotel. There is a pub on the ground floor, where they serve home-brewed draught beer, and they’ve now added a branch of the Pizza Pizza fast food chain. 4 97 rooms and 5 suites (singles €42-80, doubles €81-102, suites €118-127). Price include VAT and breakfast. PAKX Lav Cara Dušana 240, tel. (+381) 11 316 32 89, fax

(+381) 11 316 26 48, www.hotellav.co.rs. A small hotel in the outskirts of Zemun. You will need a twenty-minute ride by public transportation to the centre of the city. The rooms are decent and clean and will appeal to those who like flower patterns on chairs and armchairs. 24 hr room service. The rooms can also be rented out for daytime rest. 4 29 rooms and 2 suites (singles €36, doubles €46-50, triples €60, suites €60-64). Price include VAT and breakfast. PHALGK

Nevski C-1/2, Venizelosova 24a, tel. (+381) 11 322

9722, fax (+381) 11 322 9744, office@hotelnevski. com, www.hotelnevski.com. Opened at the end of 2010, the Nevski is a welcome addition to Belgrade’s accommodation offering. Consisting mainly of large elegantly furnished suites - some even including open kitchens and dining areas - it’s a great option for those who appreciate having enough space to stretch out and make themselves at home. Located just east of the old town, most of the city’s major sites are within easy walking distance, and there is also free onsite parking. Check their website for info about seasonal package deals and discounts. 4 10 rooms and 30 suites (singles €80-90, doubles €90-100, suites €100-150).

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Where to stay Orašac Luke Vojvodića 25n, tel. (+381) 11 256 10

90, www.hotelorasac.co.rs. A small hotel in the suburbs, some 12km away from the centre of the city (20-30min. taxi ride from the centre, depending on the time of the day). The Košutnjak forest park is close by, with its many attractions, not least great nature walks and sports facilities. Rooms are comfortable and well-furnished. 4 7 rooms and 6 suites (singles/doubles €76, suites €112). Price include VAT and breakfast. PHA6LGKXW

Palace Topličin Venac 23, tel. (+381) 11 218 55 85, fax (+381) 11 218 44 58, office@palacehotel.co.rs, www.palacehotel.co.rs. Located in a side street in the city centre, this hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan.Originally established In 1923, Palace has numerous loyal guests who would rather not stay in any other hotel. In past few years all the rooms and apartments have been completely renovated. Since it is an integral part of a catering school, a number of students conduct their work experience in the hotel.The restaurant on the very top floor has a pleasant view of the city. 4 71 rooms and 15 suites (singles €60, doubles €87, suites €113). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTHAGKX

Slodes Borska 92f, tel. (+381) 11 305 55 18, www. hotelslodes.com. A new hotel, founded at the end of 2006, set in an unseemly building located 8km from the city centre. Though the rooms are not very large or tastefully decorated, they are nevertheless clean, and some of them have a jacuzzi. This is the ideal hotel for sports players, since there is a large sports hall situated right next to the hotel, which is available to guests of the hotel. Rooms for daytime use only are also available until 18:00 for the price of €30. 4 24 rooms and 2 suites (singles €50-80, doubles €70-100, suites €119). PTAFLGKX W Srbija Ustanička 137c, tel. (+381) 11 289 04 04, fax 289 24 62, office@hotelsrbija.com, www.hotelsrbija. com. Set in an 18-storey concrete building close to the highway, and 6km from the city centre, most of the rooms have recently been renovated and equipped with modern - yet not overly attractive - furniture. Some single bedrooms have no air conditioning. The hotel is frequently visited by large groups of tourists and sports teams. 4 287 rooms and 15 suites (singles €40-50, doubles €56-70, suites 8.80011.000 RSD). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTALGKX

Park Njegoševa 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 364 03 83. A hotel

Srbija Garni Brankova 13-15, tel. (+381) 11 26 333

Rex Sarajevska 37, tel. (+381) 11 361 18 62, fax 361 29 65, www.hotelrex-belgrade.com. A small hotel in a noisy street near the Train Station. Most of the rooms have been recently renovated and offer an adequate level of comfort for the price you pay. The beds are comfortable, the rooms are clean, and the staff is friendly. There is a supermarket near by, and one of the most popular night clubs in the city is just across the street from the hotel. 4 89 rooms (singles 5600 RSD, doubles 7200 RSD, triples 10.560 RSD, suites 11.200 RSD). Price include VAT and breakfast. PHALKX

Trim Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. (+381) 11 354 06 69, office@trim.org.rs, www.trimhotel.rs. Situated in the Košutnjak forest park area, 9km from the centre, and far from any city noise. Most of the small but clean and cosy rooms have a view of the park. 4 23 rooms and 1 suite (singles €35, doubles €57, suite €63). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHALKX

right smack in the centre of the city, this is well equiped place with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. One key feature is the in-house gym which can be used free-ofcharge and massages and relaxation in the Jakuzzi can be enjoyed at discount rates.The restaurant serves domestic and international cuisine, and also lays on business lunches, cocktails, banquets, weddings receptions. 4 128 rooms (singles €40-65, doubles €70-90, triples €105-125, suites €90-100). Price include breakfast. PHALKW

Skala Bežanijska 3, tel. (+381) 11 307 50 32, www. hotelskala.rs. Located in a beautiful old house in the centre of Zemun, which is a 15 minute drive from the city centre. The rooms are nice and cosy, and the staff is friendly. The spacious hotel restaurant, known for its attractive ambiance, frequently hosts weddings and other festive events. 4 14 rooms and 2 suites (singles €40-65, doubles €55-86, suites €60-96). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTAKX Slavija Lux C-3, Svetog Save 2, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, rezervacija_lux@ slavijahotel.com, www.slavijahotel.com. Housed in a contemporary building on Slavija Square, the biggest intersection in the city, only 1km from the city centre and the central railway station, the Slavija Lux offers one of the best locations in town. The rooms are clean and offer all the standard business class amenities - many also boast great views of the city, including the adjacent Sava Temple, which is beautifully lit at night. If your view isn’t to your liking, you can visit the Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor. Rates include free use of the onsite fitness centre, as well as parking. 4 80 rooms and 11 suites (singles €54, doubles €71, suites €60-97). Weekend discount 10%. Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). POTAFLGK belgrade.inyourpocket.com

23, fax +381 (0)11 26 332 83, office@hotelsrbijagarni. com, hotelsrbijagarni.com. Perfectly situated in the heart of Belgrade, where the historic old town meets modern urban neighbourhoods, Srbija Garni offers a great value within walking distance of most tourist attractions. Opened in February 2012, the hotel is one of the newest accommodation options in Belgrade and boasts rooms and interiors designed a modern Italian flavour. The stylish BG Bar on the first floor offers a relaxing atmosphere to unwind after a long day or grab a drink before heading out at night. There’s also a free parking garage for guests. 4 35 rooms (singles 7700-8800 RSD, doubles 8800-9900 RSD, suites 11000-13200 RSD). PA

Villa Nevenka Luke Vojvodića 24, tel. (+381) 11 305 65

17, info@villa-nevenka.com, www.villa-nevenka. com. A recently built villa located on top of Košutnjak hill, offering tastefully decorated rooms. The villa is in the forest, not far away from

The legendary '?' is the oldest kafana in Belgrade, and so famous that it doesn't even need a name

January - March 2013

Where to stay N Bilećka 57, tel. (+381) 11 397 21 83, office@hotel-

n.rs, www.hotel-n.rs. Opened in 1996, it is situated in a residential neighbourhood, 20 minutes by car from the centre of the city. Although the hotel is somewhat remote part of the city, the rooms are decent and furnished in a modern style. Holders of the Euro26 youth card are entitled to a 50 per cent discount. 4 111 rooms (singles €31-62, doubles €68-85). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTHAKXW

Under €50

Bristol Karađorđeva 50, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 00,

The fountain outside the Moskva Hotel on Terazije Square is one of Belgrade's central meeting points the outdoor swimming pools of the Košutnjak Sports Centre, sports facilities and a trim trail. A few kilometres’ distance from the city centre should not present a problem to those who crave a restful sleep after a long day of exploring the city. 4 20 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €100). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PLGX W

Vila Terazija C-2, Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 11 36 19 116, fax (+381) 11 36 10 100, info@vilaterazije.rs, www.vilaterazije.rs. The location doesn’t get any better than this, and neither does the value. A small budget hotel situated right on Terazije Square, the service and amenities are comparable to places that are twice as expensive. Lots of dark wood and faux-antique furnishings make for a relaxing atmospheric stay. It’s definitely worth booking one of the five ‘exclusive’ rooms, which are only an extra €10 per night but nearly twice as large. 4 18 rooms (singles €45, doubles €50-60). PJAW Zeder Vojni Put II 164e, tel. (+381) 11 31 41 441,

(+381) 65 3 214 215, fax +381 (0)11 31 70 772, info@ hotelzeder. com, www.hotelzeder.com. Located in a residential neighbourhood to the northwest of Novi Beograd, not far from the junction of the Zagreb and Novi Sad motorways, the newly renovated Zeder is a decent business class hotel that is perfectly situated for those who want easy access to the airport and business district, or simply wish to avoid the experience of navigating the city centre’s labyrinth of one-way streets. The rooms are comfortably furnished (if not exceedingly spacious), the service is generally excellent, and the atrium boasts one of the more stylish cafés in town. 4 25 rooms (singles €55, doubles €72, family room €80, deluxe €120). PTALX

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

hotel_bristol@vudedinje.com, www.vudedinje.com/ bristol.html. Located right next to the arrivals platform of the central bus station, housed in a beautiful 1912 building. The hotel is run by an army agency which probably explains why, in spite of the fact that the hotel has not been renovated for at least 30 years, the rooms are clean and neat and period furniture is reasonably preserved. If you don’t mind the oversized antediluvian TV boxes and the noise generated during the day by the bus station and heavy traffic, you will get very decent accommodation for little outlay. The third floor houses the recently renovated ‘Gold Suite’ which is not available for hire. Rockefeller stayed there in the twenties, and his son in the seventies, so it seems that this luxury suite is kept for the Rockefeller family in case they decide to revisit Belgrade. 4 49 rooms and 5 suites (singles €25-31, doubles €40, triples €56, suites €54). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AKW

Forever C-1, Maršala Birjuzova 44, tel. (+381) 11

3282781/ (+381) 60 3282781, www.villa-forever. com. Located in a protected early 20th century building that has been completely renovated inside, the ‘hostel’ more appropriately fits the description of a budget hotel, as the rooms are mostly doubles and resemble small apartments with en suite bathrooms and minikitchens. Within easy walking distance of all the city centre’s main sights, it’s one of the best values for money in Belgrade. 4 15 rooms (€15-35 per person, per night). PJAW

Pošta C-2, Savska 3, tel. (+381) 11 361 42 60, office@

hotelpostabg.com, www.hotelpostabg.com. Established in 1938 and recently renovated, Pošta is close to the Railway Station. It is a small and pleasant hotel, known for its hospitality and friendly staff. 24h room service, internet-cafe. 4 32 rooms (singles €31, doubles €46). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTAKX

Royal C-1, Kralja Petra 56, tel. (+381) 11 263 42 22, fax (+381) 11 262 64 59, hotelroyal.rs@gmail. com, www.hotelroyal.co.rs. This is the oldest functioning hotel in the city, and dates back to 1886, with its most recent renovation being 1973. It is near to both the city centre and Kalemegdan. The rooms are clean but fairly basic, and some do not have air conditioning. The hotel is known for its inexpensive but quality restaurant which is open around the clock. Its small shop and Internet café are also open around the clock. 4 105 rooms and 2 suites (singles €2835, doubles €46-55, suites €100). Prices include VAT and continental breakfast. PAGKX Slavija C-3, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 20,

www. slavijahotel.com. Also known as Slavija 2 or Slavija B, this is the budget wing of the more upscale Slavija Lux hotel. Offering the same great location on Slavija Square - in the shadow of arguably the city’s most impressive site, the Sava Temple - the place is a decent alternative to staying in a hostel for those who would like a little more privacy for

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay the same price. With nearly 200 rooms in all, you are almost guaranteed to find a room here when all other hotels are full, even at short notice. Jat Airways shuttle bus service to the airport also conveniently departs from in front of the hotel. 4 150 rooms and 11 suites (singles €25-30, doubles €35-38, suites €32-52). Price include VAT and breakfast. HAKX

Guest Houses

Rent Room Belgrade D-3, Sinđelićeva 6, tel. (+381)

11 261 34 23, (+381) 61 303 50 51, info@rentroombelgrade. com, www.rentroom-belgrade.com. Very close to Gardoš, this serene retreat is a family house with a beautiful view over the Danube. The owners offer bed and breakfast in 3 luxurious rooms with art decor and a bathroom. A cafe gallery on the ground floor and the quiet surroundings are ideal for anyone looking for peace and quiet. 4 3 rooms ( doubles €60, single use €50). Price include VAT and breakfast. AG

Travelling Actor Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. (+381) 11 323 41 56, www.travellingactor.rs. If you take a right after entering through the old wooden door, this will lead you to another nondescript door at the very end of the hallway, where you will find rooms for rent. Though not very large, each of these wonderfully comfortable rooms includes cable TV, a mini-bar and a contemporary bathroom. Some of the rooms have a view of Skadarlija - the vintage street packed with restaurants and galleries. The friendly staff will adapt check-in/check-out times to suit customers’ needs. The building’s ground level harbours a tiny restaurant with check tablecloths, featuring Serbian and Italian specialties. 4 7 rooms and 1 suite (singles €62-69, doubles €88-98, suites €150-188). PAXW

Villa Akacija Trg Branka Radicevica 2, tel. (+381) 11 316 13 13, (+381) 11 316 17 44, villaakacija@ikom. rs, www.villaakacija.rs. Located in the heart of Zemun on the left bank of the Danube, this newly opened family-run villa offers five spacious tastefully designed rooms that are within easy walking distance of Madlenianum Theatre and Zemun Quay - the latter being a 7km long stretch of riverside restaurants, bars and clubs. When it comes to the rooms themselves, no attention to detail was spared, and the place exudes a quiet warmth from the furniture and beds down to the hand towels and curtains, while the service is equally splendid. Small conference facilities are also available, and due to the limited number of rooms advanced booking is recommended. 4 5 suites (€90-120). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHARLG Villa Forest Majevička 2m, (+381) 11 319 63 24, www.

gh-forest.com. This guest house, 7km away from both the city centre and airport and also very close to the highway, is ideal for business travellers due to both its location and wellequipped meeting room that can seat up to 20 people. Being awaken by birds from the surrounding park is something you can expeect here, which in our opinion is a great way to start the day. Rooms are nicely decorated with modern furniture, all with a direct telephone line, and spacious modern bathrooms. Q18 rooms and 6 suites (singles 5900-6500 RSD, doubles 6900 RSD, triples & suites 8900 RSD).

Villa Kalemegdan Strahinjića Bana 7, tel. (+381) 263 78 56, fax 218 55 86, reservation@villakalemegdan. com, www.villakalemegdan.com. Offers wonderfully decorated luxury suites, situated in the immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan park, in a peaceful section of a street famous for its numerous cafés and restaurants. Apart from the standard bathroom, the Royal Suite also has a jacuzzi. 4 6 suites (€79-100). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PAX W belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Villa Marija Debarska 12, tel. (+381) 11 244 84 84, vilabgd@vila-marijabgd.com, www.vila-marijabgd.com. Located in a peaceful, residential neighbourhood just a few kilometres from the city centre, this hotel has comfortable and well-equipped rooms. The guests may use the common living room, the well-equipped kitchen, as well as the spacious terrace providing an excellent setting for BBQ. 4 10 rooms (€39-59). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTALGXW

Hostels

ArkaBarka Floating Hostel Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.

(+381) 64 925 35 07, www.arkabarka.net. A floating hostel on the Danube, made of wood and surrounded by trees, perfect for nature-lovers who like waking up to the sweet songs of birds and wouldn’t mind taking a short walk to the nearest bus stop. The rooms are nice and clean. They also have a lovely bar on the water where parties are occasionally held. 4 7 rooms and 2 suites (4 doubles €35-50 per room, 2 triples €47 per room, 1 for five persons €13 per person, 2 suites €50-60 per suite. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PA6GK

Belgrade Eye Krunska 6b, tel. (+381) 11 334 64 23,

www.belgradeeye.com. A recently renovated hostel in a small, two-floor house slightly hidden from the street, near the city centre. Miniature multiple-bed rooms, a spacious living room, and decent bathrooms. Try to avoid the room in the yard, removed from the main building. 4 (1 double €22, 1 triple €18, 6-bed dorm €17). PGX W

Centar Gavrila Principa 46a, tel. (+381) 11 761 96 86, www.hostelcentar.com. A large hostel in a three-floor building, with well-furnished rooms (cable TV, PC, air ionizer, telephone) and kitchen and bathroom on every floor. It is located close to the Central Railway Station and Bus Station, January - March 2013

Where to stay near the centre of the city. The hostel has made a good name for its cleanliness and towels and sheets are changed daily. Each guest will receive a welcoming gift containing various trifles, from slippers to chocolate. 4 9 rooms (singles and 2 doubles 3860 RSD, 2 triples 1737 RSD, 2 4-bed dorms 1563 RSD, 1 6-bed dorm 1407 RSD, 1 8-bed dorm 1266 RSD, 1 12-bed dorm 1139 RSD). PAGKW

Chillton Katanićeva 7, tel. (+381) 11 344 18 26, www. chilltonhostel.com. Even though it’s about a 2 km distance from the centre, this is still one of the most popular hostels. The rooms are filled with beds, there are only two toilets and two shower compartments, but there’s also a very comfortable living room and a large kitchen with a wood-burning stove, which is a favourite congregation point for guests. The friendly staff keep the guests informed about upcoming club events and concerts. 4 4-bed dorm €15-19, 6-bed dorm €8-15, 10-bed dorm €10-13 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PGX Crossroad Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. (+381) 11 263 75 70, www.crossroad-hostel.com. This is a nicely decorated, cosy apartment, situated near the city centre, with a living room, dining room, kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms. Clean and comfy. 4 2 rooms (doubles 45€, triples 55€). Prices include VAT. PAG XW

In Old Shoes C-2, Brankova 18/II, tel. (+381) 11 218 3650, (+381) 64 136 65 05, info@inoldshoes.com, www.inoldshoes.com. Compact and quirky, staying at that Old Shoes feels like something in between the hostelling and couchsurfing experience. Located just down the hill from Republic Square and within easy walking distance of the entire city centre, this place is a great option for budget travellers looking for a quiet homey experience. 4 4 rooms (doubles €17 per person, 4-bed dorm €12 per person). PNGX Jasmin B-C-2, 69 Karadjordjeva, tel. (+381) 63 231

700, (+381) 11 218 4411, office@hostelbelgradejasmin. com, www.hostelbelgradejasmin.com. One of the newest hostels in Belgrade, Jasmin is also one of the best, and it’s location opposite the central bus train stations makes it the most convenient choice for new arrivals. The old town is easily reached on foot, but if you prefer public transport several tram lines stop right outside as well. Everything in the recently renovated flat is new, and the laid back staff are more than happy to recommend the best parties and let guests sleep in late if no one else is checking in the next day. 4 5 rooms (double €17.5-20, 5-bed dorm €12, 6-bed dorm €12, 8-bed dorm €10).

GO2 Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 64 82 94 324, (+381) 11

3612 341, office@go2hostelbelgrade.com, www.go2hostelbelgrade.com. Formerly known as the New Inn, the hostel is hidden away, just off Terazije square, in the centre of the city, on the second floor of a historic building, so don’t be surprised by the exterior. It is 350m from the train and bus stations, and within walking distance from anything you may need in the centre. PlayStation, a well-equipped kitchen and a large balcony with a beautiful view over the square and hotel Moscow makes it a popular with returning guests. There’s also one private room available, which is rather small, but has a great view of the river and new Belgrade. 4 5 rooms (single 1800-3000 RSD, double 2500-4000 RSD, 4-bed dorm 1100-2000, 6-bed dorm 1000-1800 RSD, 12-bed dorm 900-1600 RSD). PJAGW

Hostel Fair B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 37-39, tel. (+381) 11 369 2506, (+381) 65 88 99 238, info@ hostelfair.rs, www.hostelfair.rs. As the name implies, this place is situated directly opposite the Belgrade Fair, meaning that beds can be hard to come by during events. Despite being located in a rather rough looking commercial building, the hostel has a lot going for it. Still relatively new, the spotless premises have been completely renovated, with lots of bright colours and stylish modern touches. A huge lounge area in the front runs the entire width of the building, which is great for guests who’d like to socialise, since the majority of rooms have only two to four beds. 4 17 rooms (doubles €25, 4-bed dorm €20, 6-bed dorms €15, 8-bed dorms €10). PHAW Indigo Uzun Mirkova 10, tel. (+381) 11 26 26 333, (+381) 61 717 39 96, mail@indigohostel.info, www. indigohostel.info. Belgrade’s newest hostel is yet another good choice in a city where you’re already spoilt with great options. Opened in April, Indigo has one of the best locations of any of them, as it’s set just around the corner from the main pedestrian street Knez Mihailova, and has views of Kalemegdan Park from its terrace. With a total of only 12 beds in a spacious well-furnished apartment, it feels more like a guest house than a hostel. 4 3 rooms and 1 apartment (6-bed dorm €13, 4-bed dorm €15, double €17, apartment €38). JBX W Belgrade In Your Pocket

BGinfoBox Ulofa Palmea 2a, Tel. +381 11 342 65 62 www.bginfobox.com

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Manga Hostel C-3, Resavska 7, tel. (+381) 11 324

38 77, (+381) 64 261 0509, fun@mangahostel.com, www.mangahostel.com. Winner of HostelWorld’s best hostel in Serbia for both 2008 and 2009, Manga is a genuine backpackers’ place, very comfy and pleasantly furnished. It is located in the centre of the town, surrounded by shops, restaurants and city transport stops offering a ride to almost any part of the city. The hostel features a bedside lamp and locker for each bed, hygienic mattress, TV/common room, fully equipped kitchen. 4 5 rooms (single €25, triple €60, 4-bed dorms €15, 10-bed dorm €12). PGW

Pop Art Hostel B -2, Karadjordjeva 69, tel. (+381) 11 2185 908, (+381) 61 288 4876, poparthostel@ gmail.com, www.poparthostel.com. Belgrade’s newest hostel doesn’t have the cheapest beds in town, but it may have the most stylish ones. Rooms are themed on Pop Art heavyweights Warhol and Basquiat, Doors frontman Jim Morrison and cartoonist and artist Stan Drake, and in general the facilities are amongst the nicest you’ll find at a hostel - in Belgrade or anywhere else. Located along the waterfront just north of Branko’s bridge, Kalemegdon, the train and bus stations and the entire old town are all within easy walking distance. 4 4 rooms (8-bed dorm €14-17, 6-bed dorm €16-18, 4-bed private room €18-20 and 2-bed private room €20-24 per person). PJAGXW San Art Floating Hostel Ušće bb, Park Ušće, tel.

+381 (0)63 238 278, office@sanarthostel.rs, www. sanarthostel.rs. Everyone has heard of Belgrade’s famous riverside floating clubs known as splavovi, but now the city has its own floating hostel (and budget hotel) too. Located in the Zemun neighbourhood in a large green space, the two-floor structure offers great views of the river and old Belgrade, and is only a 20 minute walk or so to the latter. The nine rooms sleep two to five people each, and are all uniquely designed with private bathrooms. The large common area downstairs is a cool place to hangout and sample some cheap rakija, or just enjoy breakfast in the morning. 4 PTALBW

a restaurant on the boat, as well as a catamaran which takes guests cruising down the Danube every night, and offers home-brewed draught beer along with music. 4 9 doubles €14 per bed. HA6GKXW

Apartments

City Code Dobračina 26, tel. (+381) 11 328 85 00,

www.hotelcitycode.com. Luxury apartments with a contemporary interior, in close proximity to the city centre. Also in the vicinity is Stahinjića Bana street, famous for its numerous bars and restaurants. Discrete service, 24hr room service as well. The street these apartments are located on is not very busy or noisy, except for when trolleybuses pass by on their way to the garage. 4 6 rooms (singles €100, doubles €120). Price include VAT and breakfast. PAGXW

Ella Apartments 13 Tošin Bunar, tel. (+381) 11 344 94 76, (+381) 69 113 13 45, office@bgapartmanizemun. com. For the comfort and privacy of an apartment at hostel prices, these two well-furnished flats in a quiet neighbourhood in Zemun are a great option. Secured private parking is available, as is free airport pick-up by prior arrangement, and unusual for an apartment the rates also include breakfast. 4 2 apartments (1-person €25, 2-people €35, 3-people €45). PTRL Queen’s Apartments Đure Daničića 13, tel. (+381) 11 322 88 40, office@queensapartments.rs, www. queensapartments.com. Located in a house dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, not far from the city centre. Apartments are quite spacious (120 m2) and well-equipped, and include a kitchen and a jacuzzi. A pleasant restaurant, the Pogođena Patka, is located on the ground level. Concierge service. 4 2 suites (singles €90-100, doubles €120-130, three persons €140-160, four person €160-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTAKW

Star Cara Uroša 37, tel. (+381) 218 41 04, hostel_ star@yahoo.com, www.star-hostel.com. One of the oldest hostels in Belgrade, located tat the city centre, overlooking Kalemegdan park - which is rarity for hostels or hotels in this city. Rooms are nice and clean, and you can chill in cosy lazy bags. Pleasant hostel staff will supply you with all the necessary information on the city that never sleeps, and may even join you in clubbing. 4 6 rooms (doubles € 36 twin private room € 35, triples €16, 4-bed dorm €14, 6-bed dorm €12, 10-bed dorm € 12). P Three Black Cats Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel. (+381) 11

262 98 26, www.hostel.rs. Very close to Knez Mihailova Street, but somewhat difficult to find. The small and cramped hostel with colourful walls covered in posters is frequented by outgoing young people, as this is the ideal place for them to recuperate from all-night partying, after which they can find neither their socks nor their beds. 4 5 rooms (4-bed dorms €11.5, 6-bed dorm €12.5). Prices per bed and include VAT. PAGX

Yachting Club Kej Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 316 54 32,

www.klubkej.com. A floating hostel on the Danube. Guests are accommodated in twin-bed cabins with large windows. A sufficient number of toilets and showers. Very clean. There’s

The addition of English language street signs make finding your way around Belgrade easier than ever (note: not easy, but easier)

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January - March 2013

Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances this country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety of vegetables. Home-cooked meals tend to be more spicy.

Asian

Bizu Sushi Box Andre Nikolića 1-3, Senjak, tel. +381

(0)11 369 2570/+381 (0)65 244 7918, info@sushibox. rs, www.sushibox.rs. Set in the south of the city near the famous Topčider Park, Sushi Box’s Restoran Bizu offers fresh high quality traditional Japanese sushi at reasonable prices. Featuring a minimalistic design and comfortable seating, guests can watch their dishes being prepared by expert chefs in the open kitchen. In additional to classic sushi, the menu also includes some modern variations, as well as other Japanese dishes and a large selection of drinks. There is a second Sushi Box location on Njegoš Street not far from Slavija Square, or for those who would rather stay in, speedy home and office delivery is also possible. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Ginger Boulevard Nikola Tesla 3, tel. (+381) 11 220 28

22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. Part of Grand Casino Belgrade, the dishes at this pan-Asian restaurant are inspired by a combination of flavours of the Far East - Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine among them - and

prepared in an open kitchen. The 999 dinars buffet gives you the possibility to taste a bit of everything, with the exception of sushi. An entrance pass is required, so don’t forget your ID or passport. 4 Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. €€. PALG

Ikki Sushi Bar Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. (+381) 11

218 41 83, www.ikkibar.com. Here you can try traditional Japanese specialities, green tea and sake. Sushi arrangement is an art form, and the chef of this restaurant is a true master of the art. Do not be discouraged by the small, empty area and bar visible from the street - the restaurant is on the upper level. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. PAUGBS

Peking Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. (+381) 11 218 19 31, www.peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant - established nearly thirty years ago, with a long-standing tradition of quality. Tucked into one of the side streets in the city centre, this restaurant always has a table available. They have various specialties from different regions inChina, as well as Chinese wines, brandy and teas. 4Open 11:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. PTAGBS Sushi Bar Tokyo Cumićevo Sokače L19, tel. (+381)

11 32 48 676, (+381) 66 053 661, sushibartokyo@ hotmail.com, www.sushibartokyo.com. One Belgrade’s best sushi restaurants, you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands with Japanese trained master chef Vojislav “Miyagi” Milutinović supervising the action. In addition to the standard in-house dining and delivery options, they also offer catering services that include your own sushi chef, with prices starting from only 2000 RSD per person for all an all-you-can-eat sushi buffet. Perhaps our only criticism is the menu’s conspicuous lack of a Seattle roll (named after our editor’s hometown). 4Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. €€€. JAV

Kafana A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant. The first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was opened by the Turks at the end of the 16th century, in the Dorćol section of the city. The kafana differs from a standard restaurant in the following ways: ordering food is not obligatory - you can come for only a drink, no scornful looks will be thrown your way if you dip your bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your elbows on the table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts are normal occurrences, the guests address the waiters by their first names, the food is good but never exceptional, and tables are often pushed together for purposes of socialising... Traditional kafanas are losing ground to industrial catering facilities and are gradually declining in number.

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Restaurants French

Absinthe Kralja Milutina 33, tel. (+381) 11 364 06 25.

The only French bistro in town. The food is generally decent but can sometimes be a real let-down, especially if the place is crowded. The interior features a long bar, tables that are pushed too close together, and large mirrors on the walls. The service could be better, to be frank. During the day the atmosphere here is quite enjoyable, but in the evenings the bar area tends to be noisy and swarming with people, so it’s not exactly the best option for an intimate dinner date. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€. PABX W Le Moliere Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. (+381) 11 218 81 61. Authentic French bistro located right next to the French Cultural Centre. The menu, although not extensive, features the classical marvels of the French cuisine: French onion soup, foie gras, escalopes with red wine and onion sauce, crème brûlée, and chocolate soufflé. Their daily menu (valid until 18:00) includes a different French dish each day. You may order French wines and champagne by the glass. Thread carefully when you go down the stairs on the way to the toilet, because the stairway is not high enough for most people. 4 €€. PASW

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Fusion

Diva Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3 (Grand casino), tel. (+381)

11 220 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. One of the most luxurious restaurants in Belgrade, Diva is housed at the Grand Casino in Hotel Yugoslavia in Zemun. Only registered guests may enter the Casino, and this applies to all Casino facilities, including Diva restaurant. Registration is free and takes place at the entrance - it entails having a photo taken, filling in a form and presenting your ID or passport. It features first-class Fusion specialties prepared by internationally acclaimed chefs and a large selection of wines. Prices are suited to the ambiance, but there is a special offer, Eat&Play package offering a full dinner (from the daily menu) and 1000 dinars credit for gambling in the Casino for the price of 2490 dinars. Reservations required. 4Bar Open 19:00 - 01:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00, Restaurant Open 20:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun, Mon. €€€. PALEX

Majik&Mima Bar Džordža V ašingtona 3 8a, t el. (+381) 11 334 86 90, www.mimabar.rs. An attractive restaurant designed by the famed Karim Rashid. Modern art enthusiasts will find it fascinating regardless of the food, which unfortunately tends to be rather bland. The Funky Fusion Food Menu is designed to reflect the restaurant’s unusual interior design (with colour-changing walls), but it still falls short of satisfying the taste buds of a true hedonist. The glass wall dividing the kitchen from the restaurant will reveal that not all cooks are wearing their caps. The general impression is enhanced by the amiable hostess and the fantastic chocolate soufflé. Local DJs perform in the evenings. 4Open 07:00 - 01:00. €€€. PABSW Zaplet Kajmakčalanska 2, tel. (+381) 11 240 41 42. Always fresh and innovative, this Vračar based restaurant is one of the Belgraders favorite places. The establishment offers mainly fusion cuisine, so dont lez the unusual mixtures of flavours confuse you. It might look contradictory at first glance but once you taste the food you will lose any preconceptions you might have had before. There are also wide range of traditional Serbian dishes and suprisingly some of the best “ćevapčići” in town as well as sumptuous lamb with potatoes. Everything fits perfectly together here - from the minimalist interior, staff livery, to the manner in which the food is served. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PABSW belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Indian

Maharaja Ljubićka 1b, tel. (+381) 11 344 62 35, www.

maharaja.rs. One of Belgrade’s only Indian restaurants, Maharaja passes the authenticity test with a menu full of superb dishes from the sub-continent prepared in a traditional tandoori oven. As should be expected, some of the dishes are extremely hot so be sure to to tell your waiter if you prefer a milder version of the meal. Since the restaurant is a bit removed from the city centre the best way to get there is by taxi. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. PAVGBS

International

Destilerija Restaurant & Rakia Bar C-3, Nebojšina 41, tel. (+381) 11 2436098, destilerija@rakiabar. com, rakiabar.com. Bringing together two of Serbia’s most beloved pastimes - enjoying fine food and even finer local spirits - Destilerija is a new concept restaurant and bar opened in the spring of 2012 by the same team behind several other rakija bars. The bright open plan interior and garden are covered with light wood furnishings, and the place definitely resembles a modern restaurant more than a bar. However, don’t let this dissuade you from ordering rakija before, during and after your meal - quince (dunja) and apricot (kajsija) are two of our personal favourites. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PABSW

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Restaurants Fast food Čobanov odmor Vojvode Šupljikca 34, tel. (+381)

11 245 09 47, www.cobanovodmor.com. Traditional Serbian fast food in folklore-style kiosks. They deliver all over town. Also at Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 141, tel. 213 45 77. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. VS

menu with Serbian and international dishes, an excellent selection of wines (over 400 types from all parts of the world), and specialties made of black or white truffles. This restaurant also owns an impressive collection of paintings that decorate the walls. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun. €€. PTALGBX

Iguana Karadjordjeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 3283 749,

Fresco Cafe&Pizza Čika Ljubina 18-20, tel. 4Open Mon-Fri 09:00-23:00, Sat 09:00-23:00, Sat 11:00-23:00 KFC, C2, Vase Čarapića 24, tel. (+381) 11 26 38 514, kfcbelgradestudentskitrg@amrest.eu. Also Ušće Shopping Centre and Delta City. 4Open 09:0000.00, Fri-Sat 09:00.-01:00 McDonald’s Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85a, tel. (+381)

11 310 73 78. Drive-in. Also at Narodnih heroja 2, tel. 269 74 36; Jurija Gagarina 153, tel. 318 43 85; Deligradska 2 (Slavija Square), tel. 265 64 91; Terazije 27, tel. 323 52 97.4Open 07:00 - 01:00. PTAULGBS

Pekara Toma Kolarčeva 6-8, tel. (+381) 11 263

63 43, www.tomacentar.co.rs. This bakery offers sandwiches, salads, pizzas, cakes, burek (pie made with phyllo dough) and all kinds of traditional Serbian pastry. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. PAS

Peking Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. (+381) 11 218 19 31, www.peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant has adapted some simple yet delicious Chinese recipes for those who prefer to eat on the go or order takeaway food. 4 AS Eterno Igmanska 15, tel. +381 (0)11 411 31

34/+381 (0)11 24 08 104, restoraneterno@yahoo. com, www.eterno.rs. Operating under the slogan ‘scoperta del gusto’ (or the discovery of taste) this gloriously elegant restaurant located a few blocks east of Tašmajdan Park promotes just that, with a menu featuring what can be best described as Tuscan cuisine fused with Japanese and local spices and locally sourced produce and meat. In addition to various steaks, the menu boasts a large selection of salads and pastas, while the speciality of the house is the spicey Turkey a la Zoran. Nice touches include two smaller private dining rooms, a cigar lounge, vinyl records and free underground parking for guests. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. ALBX

office@iguana.rs. Formerly known as Superspace, one of the Belgrade’s finest jazz clubs, the Iguana restaurant kept the interior of the former club and spiced it up with a unique gastronomic experience. Located at the currently very popular Beton hala complex, the restaurant has a magnificient view of the Sava River and Branko Bridge. The central part of the restaurant is a small stage that hosts jazz gigs each night at around 1900. The music is discreet and perfectly fits the whole ambience. The range of meals on offer on the menu is not that extensive but the mixtures of different flavours make it very special. There is a decent selection of wines available and the friendly staff will make sure that your choice complements your food. For those with a sweet tooth we recommend the restaurant’s famous warm date cake. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PAEKSW

Jerry Trešnjinog cveta 11, tel. (+381) 11 6302459, info@jerry.rs, www.jerry.rs. Set beneath a modern block of flats in New Belgrade, the sophisticated ambiance takes you by surprise when you first enter - the fact that it’s named after a real life chihuahua (who adorns the logo and by all accounts is the boss) also serves to dampen expectations. Nevertheless, the place is exquisitely designed and professionally run, with some of the best service in town, and most importantly the food is excellent. However, our favourite part is probably the cosy cigar lounge that’s just off the main dining area. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00, Kitchen closes at 23:00 €€€. PALBX Kalemegdanska terasa Belgrade Fortress, tel. (+381) 11 328 30 11, kalemegdanskaterasa@eunet. rs, www.kalemegdanskaterasa.com. The only restaurant situeted within the Belgrade Fortress, famous for its terrace and breathtaking view of the Danube. It has a very pleasing ambiance, excellent cuisine and a wide selection of wines. Reservations are recommended, as the place is often rented out for banquets and cocktail parties. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. PTJALEK

Franš Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. (+381) 11 264 19 44, frans@frans.rs, frans@eunet.rs, www.frans. co.rs. An elegant restaurant named after the French general, Franchet d’Esperey. It has an incredibly extensive

Belgrade In Your Pocket

The garden dining area at Klub Knjizevnika

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Restaurants

Klub književnika Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79

31, office@klubknjizevnika.rs, www. klubknjizevnika. rs. One of the oldest restaurants in the city centre, the building being old about 150 years. Guests like Alberto Moravia, JeanPaul Sartre, Richard Burton, Ivo Andrić once made it a meeting point of writers and artists(you needed a membership card to enter!). Restaurant had been redecorated, but has retained the spirit of the old days. It also has a large summer garden. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. €€€. PAS W La Garage Kraljice Natalije 30. This place is a textbook example of why one should never judge a book by its cover. Situated opposite the aesthetically-challenged Zeleni Venac parking garage in less than attractive part of town, rest assured that once through the doors you’ll find yourself in a nicer, prettier, tastier world. Although the prices are modest, the food is on a level that you would expect to find in the restaurants of top hotel, which is exactly where the head chef used to work, in Slovenia. One delicacy he brought with south was the famous cream cakes of Bled - a delightful must-try dessert after your meal. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. JA

Little Bay Dositejeva 9 a, tel. (+381) 3 28 8 9 9 5,

beograd@little-bay.co.uk, www.little-bay.co.uk. An unusual interior this, reminiscent of an opera setting with the waiters dressed in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse, each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day you can enjoy famous opera tunes, and in the evenings live performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the cake? The food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in town! 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €. P A EGX W Lorenzo i Kakalamba Cvijićeva 110, tel. (+381) 64 80 87 807/(+381) 11 329 53 51, www.lorenzokakalamba. com. Still in the midst of its ‘soft-opening’ as we went to print (with the official opening scheduled for 1 March 2011), Lorenzo i Kakalamba has already become one of the most popular restaurants in Belgrade - meaning reservations are more or less mandatory for both lunch and dinner! Specialising in Pirot cuisine from Florence, the menu is as eclectic as the décor, and the prices surprisingly reasonable - making it a great place to linger over multiple courses and several glasses of Serbian wine. The entrance is from Vladetine Street. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.. PJA

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Fresco Cafe&Pizza Čika Ljubina 18-20 Monday - friday 08:00-23:00 saturday 09:00-23:00 sunday 11:00-23:00

Madera Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. (+381) 11

323 13 32, maderabg@eunet.rs, www.maderarestoran. com. A renowned Belgrade restaurant with an elegant interior and beautiful terrace located on the periphery of Tašmajdan Park. The food is first-rate, and apart from the national dishes on the menu, the Italian chef also made sure to include some Italian specialties and desserts. Though the waiters are friendly, they often pay more attention to regular customers. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALEBX

Metropolitan Grill Milentija Popovića 5 (Hotel Hyatt), tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. Although it’s a hotel restaurant, it is worth a visit as it offers a new a la carte menu introducing light and seasonal dishes created by the Hyatt culinary team and is a perfect venue for lunch in a relaxed atmosphere. The kitchen serves a wide selection of Serbian and international cuisine, and there’s a popular Sunday brunch between noon and 17:00. It also often features guest chef programs, presenting cuisines and dishes from around the world, including Asia, the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Europe. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30. €€€. P AULEGSW Mythologia Birčaninova 42, tel. (+381) 11 265 89 11, www.restoranmythologia.com. An elegant restaurant with a spacious, open terrace, this place is favourite with people working for nearby embassies and offices. The menu is an eclectic mixture of international dishes(from cappuccino shrimps to venison fillet in berry-shaped forest fruit) and some traditional Serbian specialities. The restaurant boasts a large wine cellar with over 400 wines from all over the world and if you find it difficult to make your choice, there is a sommelier on hand to help out. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00. Sun Closed. €€€. P A BS January - March 2013

Restaurants www.inyourpocket.com Price Guide Opera Obilićev Venac 30, tel. (+381) 11 303 62 00,

opera1@eunet.rs. A charming little restaurant, ideal both for short business lunches and romantic occasions. The classic style furniture with its intricate designs borders on kitsch, but it is nevertheless comfortable to sit on. The food and wine menu is so diverse that everyone can find something to their liking. The waiters are hospitable, but at times overly insistent with their food recommendations. 4Open 09:00 - 23:30. €€. PTAUBS

Pogođena Patka (The Shot Duck) Đure Daničića

13, tel. (+381) 11 334 04 60, www.pogodjenapatka. com. A very nice restaurant in the basement of an old house where Queen Draga Mašin lived before she got married. It is close enough to the city centre for an enjoyable stroll. The clientele varies - from business people to couples. Apart from the duck specialties, they offer a number of meat and fish dishes as well as excellent desserts. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. PAGBSW

Principal - Diners Club Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11

214 04 67, www.principal.rs. A floating restaurant with an unforgettable view of old-town Belgrade, regardless of whether you are seated inside or on the terrace just above the water of the Sava River. The kind waiters will make sure you spend a perfect afternoon by the water. The menu is extensive, with a variety of superbly-prepared fish and meat dishes, but sometimes they can go a little overboard with the olive oil. The interior is a bit shabby and the restroom is tiny, but it is still considered one of the most beautiful in the city. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Tue. €€. P A EGBX

(Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person) Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person) Cheap € (Less than €8 per person)

Sava Mala Savski Trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 66 84 541, www.restoransavamala.com. Originally opened way back in 1910 in what was then the Hotel Petrograd (it’s now known as the Belgrade City Hotel), countless others have come and gone, but Savamala remains more or less the same. Located on Savski Trg just opposite the main train station, the restaurant provides a fine dining experience without any pretention. The menu is a mix of traditional Serbian dishes and international standards (pasta, risotto, curry and chicken cordon bleu all make appearances), and the staff is used to dealing with foreign visitors. 4Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€. J A Smokvica Kralja Petra 73, tel. (+381) 63 446 403.

We should say right up front that we love this place. Basically just an outdoor summer terrace hidden away in a charming courtyard in the Dorćol neighbourhood of old Belgrade, the atmosphere here is great and the food is even better. To experience the place at its best come during the weekend, when there have barbecues and live acoustic music, or just drop in during the day to rest under the shade of a fig tree (smokvica is Serbian for fig) and enjoy a smoothie, freshly pressed juice or a delectable dessert. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. € .

Supermarket Višnjićeva 10, tel. (+381) 11 291 0942, of f ice@supermarket.rs, supermarket.rs. Belgrade’s unique Supermarket concept store is home to one of the city’s trendiest restaurants. Featuring a varied international menu devised by Dutch head chef Sem Veldheer, a beautiful open kitchen and a bar running almost the entire length of the building, it’s worth visiting even if for those not in the mood to peruse the selection of goods in other parts of the store. Every morning there’s a hearty breakfast on offer at 09:00, and from 13:00-17:00 on Sundays you can enjoy a special menu and live music during Jazz Brunch. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. P A 6EBW Tribeca C-1/2, Kralja Petra 20, tel. (+381) 11 328 56 56, fax (+381) 11 328 55 66, www.tribecabeograd. com. Themed after the neighbourhood of the same name in New York, the restaurant features an international menu with a large selection of salads, fish, soups and of course meat dishes - including the delectable house speciality, tagliatelle with duck, as well as the best chocolate soufflé in town. The food is complimented by a lengthy list of international wines, all of which can be served by either the bottle or glass, and the English speaking staff are the definition of professional. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGBK XW Tribeca Uniqa Milutina Milankovica 134d, tel. (+381) 11 2026 004, www.tribecabeograd.com. Located in New Belgrade, this is the sister restaurant to Tribeca in the city centre (and takes its extended name from the office building it’s located in). Catering mainly to business clientele from the surrounding offices, the

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Restaurants

interior is warm and relaxed with a professional English speaking staff. In addition to the à la carte menu, daily business lunch specials are always available, and all wines from the sizeable wine list can be ordered by either the bottle or the glass. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€. PAGBSW

Whatever @ The Corner Beogradska 37, tel. (+381) 11 323 64 70, restorannacosku@gmail.com, www. nacosku. com. An exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food, but also for its first-rate service and enjoyable ambiance. A place where great attention is paid to details, and where customer satisfaction is the number one priority. Though the menu is somewhat sparse, it features carefully selected Mediterranean specialties. This restaurant is ideal both for large groups and romantic couples, and the best tables are those by the window. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun Closed. €€. PTAGSW Žabar Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 319 12 26, www. zabar.co.rs. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Belgrade, situated on a raft on the Danube river quay. It is ideal both for couples and large crowds, as guests have the option of isolating themselves in booths. The quality of food and high prices attract numerous Serbian celebrities. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PALGX

Italian

Košava Trattoria Kralja Petra 36, tel. (+381) 11 262

73 44, kosavatrattoria@yahoo.com www.trattoriakosava. com. Established in 1982, the Košava Trattoria retains a friendly traditional feel of an original Italian trattoria in the very heart of the city. With its menu of more than 100 mostly Italian and Serbian recipes and attentive waitng staff, Košava combines the ‘mamas kitchen’ concept with world class dining. It has become a favourite all occasion destination in Belgrade and a place where one can eat arguably the best carpaccio in town. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAS

Ottimo Studentski trg 10, tel. (+381) 11 328 64 54, office@restoranottimo.com, www.restoranottimo.rs. Situated next to the Studenstki Park. A cosy and romantic little restaurant with a multitude of interesting decorations on the walls and one of the most inventive open terrace solutions in town. The menu features a large selection of Italian specialties, including an excellent tiramisu that is prepared fresh on the premises. The waiters are efficient and friendly, and you can safely rely on their recommendations. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTA BS belgrade.inyourpocket.com

January - March 2013

Restaurants Burrito Bar Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 65 46. A snug, dimly-lit restaurant with an interior made entirely out of wood. The waiters will patiently explain the specifics of all the Mexican specialties on offer. As opposed to the original dishes in Mexico, the food here is tolerably spicy and won’t set your lips on fire. The portions are large, and the waiters will let you combine various dishes. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAX Nachos C-1, Strahinjića Bana 66a, tel. (+381)

Panta rei Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. (+381) 11 303 66 98, www.pantarei.co.rs. A recently renovated restaurant with a contemporary interior. The large windows provide stunning views of the Danube and Zemun. However, you are in for an unpleasant suprise if you try and sit at one of the tables by the window, because the waiter will most certenly explain to you that it is reserved for Godot and his crew. Nevertheless, the tables are arranged in such a way that you will enjoy a beautiful views regardless of where you sit. There are some intresting items on the menu, though while some of the dishes are truly excellent, others are average. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. PA6GBS Pietro dell Oro Trnska 2, tel. (+381) 344 77 00, www.

pietrodelloro.com. This restaurant is staffed with probably the best waiters in town. A truly enjoyable setting, regardless of whether you’re sitting in the upper level or in the attractive vapour-cooled garden. The food is superbly prepared by an Italian chef, but the menu could use a little rejuvenation every once in a while. Be sure to try the panacotta. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00. €€. PAUEGBSW

Vapiano Ušće Shopping Center, Mihaila Pupina

4, Obilićev venac 29, tel. (+381) 11 285 44 36, restoran1@vap-restorani.rs, www.vapiano.rs. With more than a 100 locations in countries around the world, Vapiano’s concept of fresh, healthy food prepared quickly has proven extremely popular with consumers. Pizzas, pastas and salads are made to order while you watch, and there’s also a selection of Italian desserts and wines to choose from. In Belgrade, Vapiano has two locations, the original restaurant in the Ušće shopping centre, and a recently opened second site on Knez Mihailova pedestrian street just off of Trg Republike in the heart of the city centre - the latter elegantly combining modern dining with classical architecture and design, and a large terrace. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. PTAB

11 262 34 33, office@ nachos.rs, www.nachos.rs. Located in Belgrade celebrated “silicone valley” district, where all beautiful people come to play at night during the weekend, Nachos has the modest interior evoking its cuisine”s Central American origin and also has cow hide adorning one of the walls, just to remind you what you might be eating. You have to go upstairs to eat, downstairs to drink and dance. The Mexican food is superb and can be ordered ultra spicy or not, just as you like it. The grilled pork are one of the menu best features and are served with homemade barbeque sauce (which has whiskey in it) and is served with fried potatoes. They only cost 750 dinars to boot. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 00:10. €. PTA ESW

Lebanese

Byblos Nebojšina 6, tel. (+381) 11 24 41 938, byblos@

yahoo.com. An elegant restaurant with bright colours, good lighting and pictures of Beirut on the walls. The influences of Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine are noticable, but it is mezze that makes Lebanese cuisine special. Hot or cold, it is served in small dishes and choosing what to eat is not so easy, but you can always go for humus, falafel, Lebanese bread or baklava with pistachios and mahalabi (cream with pistachios and ouzo). 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABS

Pizzerias

Guli Skadarska 13, tel. (+381) 11 3237 204, guli@sbb.

rs. Situated in the middle of bohemian Skadarlia area with its charasteristic brick-wood dimlight ambience. Though the interior of this restaurant/pizzeria appears to be modern, the pizzas are still served in a traditional way from the wood-fired brick ove. Beside pizza you can enjoy different types of pastas, meat and fish. This restaurant has beautiful terrace which is extremely pleasant in summertime. 4Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun 14:00 - 23:30. €€. PABSW

Latin American

Bar Latino Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 355 69 55, www.cafebuenavista.rs. This newly opened Cuban restaurant shares its building with Buena Vista, a popular and long-running café and cocktail bar. The rustic Cuban-themed interior has an undeniable charm to it, while the food is authentic enough for our tastes and quite good - our personal favourite is probably the Brazilian chicken with ginger and peanuts, followed of course by piece of Cuban rum cake. In addition to the usual cocktail suspects, they also have a wide selection of quality wines from Chile, Argentina and Portugal among other places. Recommended. 4 €€.

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Restaurants Pizza Hut Makedonska 44, tel. (+381) 11 322 13 12,

office@pizzahut.rs, www.pizzahut.rs. American-style pizzas for those who prefer that sort of experience. The menu also includes salads, pasta and various appetisers, as well as daily specials at reduced prices. The waiters are quick and friendly. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTABX

Pomodoro Hilandarska 32, tel. (+381) 11 334 28 97,

pomodoro.pizzeria@gmail.com, www.pomodoro.rs. Here you can treat yourself to probably the best pizzas in town, prepared in a wood-burning stove, of course. An unassuming and airy interior, short wine list containing just a few exquisite wines, and a large selection of non-conventional pizza combinations. The menu also features photographs of each dish. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAUGBS

Seafood

Bevanda Požarevačka 51, tel. (+381) 11 244 74 46, zoran@bevanda.co.rs, www.bevanda.co.rs. Fresh, nonfrozen salt-water fish and seafood prepared in the Dalmatian style. A cosy atmosphere and excellent service. If you are having a romantic dinner with enough money to spend, be sure to try their combined specialty dish, which they will serve on two different plates: salty anchovies in combination with lozova rakija (grape brandy), cold cuttlefish and octopus salad, black and white risotto, mixed shellfish buzara (shellfish in a special sauce). For the main course you should opt for a fresh fish, such as the grouper or St. Pierre. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.PABX Gušti Mora Radnička 27, tel. (+381) 11 355 12 68,

gustimora@gustimora.com, www.gustimora.com. Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders love sea food and have very high standards when it comes to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwater fish, lobster and shellfish prepared in the same style as in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The waiters are kind and obliging. Even though the restaurant is located in a rather unattractive part of the city - just next door to a tire repair shop, the good food it offers makes it a very popular place especially among celebrities. Avoid the garden - it’s much nicer inside. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PA BSW

Malevilla Kej Oslobodjenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 307 75

75. With a unique waterfront location near Zemun Marina, Malevilla provides an oasis of calm and relaxation away from the crowded streets of the city centre. With a menu overflowing with seafood selections, from both freshwater and the sea, and a sizeable selection of local and international wines, the trip across town is well-worth the effort. Thursdays are especially popular, when there is a piano accompaniment throughout the night, as are Fridays and Saturdays when there is also live music. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAGBKX

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Paša Kej oslobođenja 7 , tel. ( +381) 11 261 21 19, pasa@restoranzemun.rs, www.restoranzemun.rs. A floating, river restaurant specialising in freshwater fish caught in the Danube. It has both an enclosed section and an open terrace above the water - which also happens to be a popular resting place for river gulls. The interior is modest, the food served in a straightforward manner, and the recipes simple but perfectly wholesome. This is one of the few restaurants in Belgrade where you will get paper napkins instead of the usual cloth ones. Be sure to try the fish chowder and the grilled perch. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTA BX Stara Koliba Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 311 74 44. Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating restaurant made of wood and reeds is situated in the most beautiful spot in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If you don’t have a reservation, the chances of getting a table on the terrace with the stunning view are next to none. Nevertheless, there is also charm in sitting at the bar surrounding the cooking area, as you can watch the cooks prepare meat and fish dishes. This restaurant’s biggest downside is the poor service. Be prepared to wait for a long time for the waiter even to approach you if you’re not a regular customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PA EBX

Serbian

For the main course, most restaurants in Belgrade will offer roštilj - different types of barbecued meat cuts served with finely chopped onion. Although many world nations prepare their meat in a similar style, Serbs have managed to elevate barbecued meat to an art form, and nowhere else will you have the opportunity to try such specialties. The meat needs to be primed in a particular way before it can be tossed on the grill, typically heated with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs are a class of their own, and the best of the bunch come from the south- Serbian town of Leskovac. Types of barbecued meat include ćevapčići (cylinder-shaped minced meat), pljeskavice (similar to a hamburger), kobasice (a special, spicy type of sausage for the barbecue), ražnjići (chunks of meat on a skewer), vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut lengthwise), chicken liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc. If you order the Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the above specialties on one plate. If you order the leskovački voz (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination, but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so that the various types of meat stay warm.

Careva Ćuprija Bulevar Vojvode Misica 79, tel. +381 (0)11 369 01 44. One of the city’s best known restaurants, it’s long been a favourite of both visitors from abroad and local (including some of Belgrade’s most prominent personalities), yet has still somehow managed to maintain a homey unpretentious charm since it originally opened all the way back in 1847. The storied restaurant hasn’t survived more than a century and a half on its name alone, and when it comes to the menu you can’t make a bad decision - although our recommendation would be to try something baked in the traditional sač oven. Located near Topčider Park, an stroll though the forested paths is a great way to work up an appetite. 4Open 09:00 24:00.P A LE January - March 2013

Restaurants Premijer Pizza House Starca Milije 1a, Rakovica, tel.

+381 (0)11 351 0909. This pizza house and restaurant has been attracting guests from all over the city (and country) to the quiet neighbourhood of Rakovica for over three decades. The food comes in portions that are huge even by Balkan standards, and the daily special offers are a great way to try some expertly prepared signature Serbian dishes. Of course, the place is also a pizza house, so there’s always a specially trained chef on hand to prepare delectable Italian cuisine as well. Recently under new management, its reputation for great service and food is even better than before, with live music every Tuesday and Saturday.

Dačo Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. (+381) 11 278 24 22,

www.kafanadaco.com. A restaurant that faithfully depicts the atmosphere of a real Serbian village, with checkered tablecloths, mismatched cutlery, and cats and chickens roaming around the tables in the garden. They also have a souvenir shop. You should try the village appetiser, the svadbarski kupus (Wedding Cabbage), and the house wine. Since the restaurant - situated in a remote area of town - is extremely popular, reservations are recommended. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTABS

Dva Jelena C-2, Skadarska 32, tel. (+381) 11 323

4885, info@dvajelena.rs, www.dvajelena.rs. One of the best known and longest running restaurants in the city, the Two Deer kafana is one of the symbols of Belgrade and more or less a must-see destination for visitors. Originally opened as a bakery in 1832, it was sold by the original owners some 35 years later and changed into a restaurant, which immediately began attracting a mixed bohemian crowd. Besides various expansions, little has changed in the time since, and a full array of hearty traditional Serbian dishes are served in what could easily be mistaken for a hunter’s lodge, often accompanied by live music. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PJAEBX

Proleće Vuka Karadžića 11, tel. (+381) 11 263 54 36. A restaurant known for its variety of “home-cooked” meals and grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), discoloured cutlery, and the occasional patched tablecloth, Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts a wide variety of customers - young couples in love, old folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, penniless students sharing a portion - all united by their mutual craving for a warm, “home-cooked” meal. No music. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00. €. PABX Salaš Sinđelićeva 34, tel. (+381) 11 219 03 24, of-

fice@ salas-gardos.com, www.salas-gardos.com. A wonderful duplex restaurant in an old family house in Gardoš. The interior is decorated in bright colours and floral patterns typifying houses in the province of Vojvodina. The upper level has a breathtaking view of the Danube, stretching over the roofs of Gardoš, and for an even more rewarding experience try getting a table on the miniature terrace. The food is decent and the portions large. The waiters are friendly but few in number, so if the restaurant is jam-packed, consistent efforts to get their attention might end up a real mood-spoiler. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00 €€ . PAEBX

Jevrem Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. (+381) 11 328 47 46, www.restoran-jevrem.com. Situated in the city centre, in a house built at the beginning of the last century, this restaurant is known for its beautiful terrace, isolated from city noise. Here you will find various Serbian specialties, and although they may not be prepared in the most faithful way, you will have the opportunity to try certain Serbian dishes that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere, such as pihtije (jellied pork or duck) or cicvara (a dish made of corn flour, eggs, butter and cheese). The waiters occasionally make a slip-up by bringing the main course before the guests have finished with their appetisers. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PAEGBX

Manjež Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. (+381) 11 362

11 11. One of the few restaurants in Belgrade that has retained the character of an authentic city bistro and it offers skilfully-prepared Serbian specialties difficult to find elsewhere. A highly enjoyable atmosphere, wide diversity of guests - from lawyers rummaging through their files while sipping a cognac to bubbly housewives meeting over coffee to discuss burning global issues. The atmosphere is further enhanced by traditional romantic tunes softly playing in the background. The waiters will gladly put a few tables together for larger groups. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00. €€. PTAEBS

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Restaurants Local Specialties

Srpska Kafana Svetogorska 25, tel. (+381) 11 324 71 97. A legendary Belgrade restaurant where back in the old days, live Gypsy music used to entertain the crowd deep into the night. There is no longer live music, and nowadays the ambiance is more reminiscent of a village setting than of a town. The cuisine features national specialties (both home-cooked and grilled) at fairly low prices. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAG Tabor Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. (+381) 11

241 24 64, info@restorantabor.com, www.restorantabor.com. A famous restaurant with Serbian specialties, and a true favourite with Belgraders. Be sure to try the spicy potatoes, the čačanski uštipci (Čačak-style minced meat) and quince rakija. Guests also have the option of preparing their own meat on a volcanic rock. You should probably avoid dishes that don’t fit the ambiance, such as gnocchi or spaghetti. Their musicians are among the best in town and are also surprisingly unobtrusive. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PTALEBX

Zlatnik Slavonska 26, tel. (+381) 11 316 62 56. This is both a Serbian cuisine restaurant and a fish restaurant, located in the Zlatnik Hotel in Zemun. Its peaceful setting far from the racket of the city - makes it ideal for important business lunches. The service is exceptional, the noodles in the soup are homemade, and their turkey with mlinci (type of pasta) is by far the best in town. 4Open 06:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALBSW

Spanish

Cantina de Frida Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11

218 11 20, info@cantinadefrida.com, www.cantinadefrida.com. The interior decoration unifies lively colours and details that associate to Mexico and the life of the famous artist Frida Kahlo. The lively colours repeat themselves on the plates, too. The menu is based on tapas (plates): hot or cold, based on meat or sea food. If you decide to share your plate with friend, the restaurant also offers large tapas. Experienced waiters are there to help you make the right choise of meal and sauce, thus choosing how spicy you want your dish to be. Don’t miss Diego’s pancakes, made just like Frida used to cook them. The place is already very popular, so check ahead. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PALBXW

El Hispano Obilićev Venac 27/II, tel. (+381) 11

262 8 6 85 , re staura ntE L hispano@g mail.com, www.elhispano.rs. Belgrade has several fine Spanish restaurants, but this is very likely the best of the bunch. Located in a converted apartment just off Trg Republike, the dining area is elegantly furnished in predominantly beige and cream tones, and the partially open kitchen (visible through a pair of French doors) is a nice added touch - we always feel a bit aristocratic when dining here. While the menu is not overwhelmingly extensive, the cuisine is authentic, and there are some fine Spanish wines to choose from as well. The somewhat retro lounge area is a pleasant space to enjoy either a pre- or post-meal drink, as long as the you’re not disturbed by the enormous bull’s head mounted on the wall. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. Sun Closed €€€. JA

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In Serbia, the salad is eaten with the main course. Thanks to greenhouses and imports, one can have tomato or lettuce throughout the year. However, old customs still linger and the most popular winter salads include: roast paprika (pečena paprika), ajvar, sauerkraut and pickles (turšija). Roast paprika is made of large peppers, grilled over coals or on a cooker, peeled and seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and finely chopped garlic. Ajvar is a savoury local relish made of red peppers and aubergines, roasted, peeled and chopped or minced and sautéed with oil seasonings and garlic. The sauerkraut is prepared by tightly packing cabbage heads, their roots removed, into a plastic barrel and filling the barrel with salted water. The fermented cabbage from the barrel is used to prepare local specialties such as sarma (cabbage rolls), podvarak (cabbage baked in the oven with pork), or is eaten as a salad, chopped and seasoned with dried and ground hot peppers. The sour cabbage juice, brimming with vitamin C, is called rasol and is the local cure for hangovers. Pickles - pickled cucumbers, cauliflower, carrots, peppers and green tomato make great appetizers, as does sauerkraut, particularly when served with straight rakija (brandy) or kuvana rakija (mulled brandy).

Milagro Kej Oslobodjenja 55, tel. (+381) 11 316 01 60, www.milagrosq.rs. Located in Zemun, on the bank of the Danube, in a pleasing ambience of a new, airy two-storied house with lots of windows. Dark wood, stone, leather and wrought iron create an elegant décor. There is also a terrace on the first floor with a great view of the Danube. You can try paella and tortilla made to original recipes as the restaurant is owned by a former FC Barcelona football player. The menu also features chuletón - T-bone steak served on a hot plate with a burner so you can cook it to your preference. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€€. TAEBSW

January - March 2013

CAFÉS Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly

Amsterdam Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 319 49

71. The most exquisite terrace on the river, known to attract the city’s most beautiful women. The restaurant offers light meals and cakes. You should avoid eating here unless you are dreadfully hungry, as the prices are known to exceed the quality of the food. The best tables can usually be found vacant, because they are reserved for friends that hardly ever stop by. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PALEBX

Bistro Pastis Strahinjića Bana 52b, bistropastis@

gmail.com. One of the most popular cafes in ‘Silicone Valley’. Many celebrities who live near-by like to come here, and the small barrels used for tables in the outdoor section are a favourite place to pose for young managers who are all dressed in similar suits. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sun 09:00 01:00. TABSW

Cafeteria Moment D-3, 16 Topolska, tel. (+381) 11

344 32 35. A large yet homey café, with brick walls, vaulted ceilings and lots of nooks to relax in with your drink of choice. Rotating photography exhibitions and a decent international music selection round out the laid back atmosphere, and there’s plenty of outdoor seating if the weather allows. There’s also a second location in the Delta Shopping centre at 16 Jurija Gagarina. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. PABXW

Ex M Palmotićeva 27, tel. (+381) 11 323 33 82. The

deep shade of the linden tree in a tiny park hides one of the most popular cafes in the city centre. It is a favourite spot for those who work in advertising agencies, cultural facilities, and all others who have the freedom to extend their lunch break and can afford to wait for the waiter to bring their order. If you have enough time on your hands, you can admire the ability of Belgraders to prolong the act of drinking an espresso into a halfhour event. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. PB

Favela Miročka 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 93 56. A very popular

cafe, very close to the so colled Silicon Valley (Strahinjića bana Street) is famous for homemade wine available exclusively there. Carefully chosen music, quiet location and green gardenterrace at the Belgrade city centre and Brazilian touch are a real treat. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. BW

can enjoy its delightful ambiance, providing there’s a table available. It’s a good place to start the day, as they also offer sandwiches, salads, fruit smoothies and freshly-squeezed orange juice. 4Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PAGSW

Greenet Nušićeva 3 , tel. (+381) 11 323 84 74, www. greenet.co.rs. A snug little café with the most extensive choice of coffee in town. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heat-conserving cups, and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PABSW Kandahar Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. (+381) 11 291 03

11. A café named after the city in Afghanistan. The interior is decorated in the Oriental style and filled with colourful pillows, and the exterior features an unusual open terrace with low tables and canopies. With a large selection of tea blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few spots in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni Raki. 4Open 09:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 00:00. PAB

Lime Café C-2, Obilićev Venac 1. Located on a side street

just off of Republic Square, this trendy new coffeehouse offers a pleasant enough atmosphere to go with your daily caffeine fix. The interior is modern and stretches across three different levels, with additional seating in the garden outside. There are also free laptops to go along with the free Wi-Fi, and several large LCD screens are usually tuned into some sporting event or other. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, PJABSW

Mama’s Biscuit House Strahinjića B ana 7 2a, t el. (+381) 11 328 38 05, www.mammasbiscuit.rs. Offers a wide variety of cakes and other sweet treats. Their terrace is a favourite spot for gazing at girls strolling down the street commonly known (for obvious reasons) as ‘Silicone Valley’. As with most of the cafés in this part of town, Mamma’s doubles as a trendy bar once the sun goes down. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. PTABX Sweet Caffe Zadarska 2, tel. (+381) 11 303 64 61. A

great place for a chat with your friends and an excellent spot to take a break after a tour round Kosančićev venac. Coffee enthusiasts will be pleased with the café menu - offering 40 different kinds of caffeine fix. The café is on three levels, the lowest overlookng a busy crossroads, and the highest being the smallest and cosiest. 4Open 08:00 - 03:00. A6GB

Galerija Čunarska 1, tel. (+381) 11 261 20 96. The most

romantic café in town, situated in Gardoš - Zemun’s popular promenade - near the Danube quay. If a particular woman has not yet fallen under your charms, this place is sure to sweep her off her feet. The music played in the background is jazz. The walls are decked with purchasable paintings by various up-and-coming artists. They also serve food, which you can enjoy on the beautiful open terrace or, on rainy days, in the wine cellar. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00. AB

Grand pleasure Vasina 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 24. A new chain of cafés with a wide variety of take-away coffees. Those wishing to have their coffee on the premises of the café Belgrade In Your Pocket

Take a step back in time at El Hispano

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Nightlife Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly Belgrade is famous for its exciting night life. Wherever you go, you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel at home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of the week, and they do it spontaneously - at any given time and regardless of the amount of work that awaits them the following day. The most exciting and busiest nights out on the town are not dictated by the day of the week but by circumstances and events. Floating river clubs are a special feature of Belgrade nightlife. They vary in size, customer capacity and type of music played. As they are far from residential zones, the party can last till dawn, especially if the guests are in good spirits.

Bars

Amarone Wine Bar C-2, Gospodar Jovanova 56, tel.

(+381) 60 504 04 55. An immensely popular wine bar located in old town, there’s a decent - if not overwhelming - selection of wines from around the world, from European mainstays Italy, France and Spain, to up-and-coming new world countries like the US, Chile and Australia. The low wood tables and chairs aren’t the most comfortable in the world but do add nicely to the overall air of rustic ambiance. It’s a good idea to make reservations at the weekends, when DJs spin increasingly up-tempo beats from atop a couple of old wine barrels. 4 PJAEXW

Bar Central C-1, Kralja Petra 59, tel. (+381) 11 262 64 44. The ever-popular Bar Central may not have the most original name, but it’s second to none when it comes to cocktails and bartending displays in Belgrade - with a staff that includes at least one former best barman in Serbia winner. More than a bar, it’s also the national headquarters of the Barmen Association, and as such also provides info on various trainings and courses that the association organises, and also sells books and equipment for aspiring amateur bartenders.4Open 09:00 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAG Blowup Bar C-2, Despota Stefana 36a, tel. (+381) 63 441 655, www.blowupbar.com. Taking its name from Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1966 avant-garde film set in swinging London, the bar attracts a hip crowd with its eclectic library, film nights, cool staff and frequent performances that range from DJs and bands to magicians, painters and burlesque shows. Of course there’s also a full bar as well as coffee, tea and light snacks. 4Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAENXW Brankow Bar B-2, Crnogorska 12, tel. (+381) 69

83 00 777, www.brankow.com. A new project from the management team responsible for a handful of Belgrade’s more popular nightspots, Brankow may end up being our favourite of the bunch as the interior bears all the standards trademarks of famed club architect Đorđe Gec, but at the same time manages to maintain a moody, somewhat brooding industrial feel that we can’t seem to get enough of these days. However, those a bit light in the wallet should note that the prices, attire and clientele here are not exactly budget traveller friendly. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PABK

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January - March 2013

Nightlife

Plato C-2, Vasina 19, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. Here

you can find a bookstore, restaurant, and club with live music (mostly jazz and Latino) - all in one. The outdoor terrace is well-known for its lounge chairs and laid-back atmosphere, but it also includes a section with standard chairs too. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEGBXW

Rakia Bar C-2, Dobračina 5 , t el. (+381) 11 328 61

Belgrade's world-famous nightlife can be a rapturous experience for some

Drinka C-2, Kosovska 33, tel. (+381) 11 30 37 794. A

two-level café with a warm homey atmosphere, upstairs you’ll find people chatting over coffee or wine, while on the more intimate lower level a DJ is usually spinning jazz. The café actively promotes young artists, with rotating installations of paintings, photographs and sculptures, and you’ll notice that the chandeliers are made from recycled materials (a holdover from the location’s previous occupants). 4Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. PABXW

Informbiro C-2, Studentski Trg 11, tel. (+381) 11 2629 491. Located a few steps off Knez Mihailova, the city’s main pedestrian street, Informbiro is known as the club of the Belgrade Philharmonic. You can purchase tickets to various concerts and theatrical performances along with your espresso or cocktail, and the ceiling has been signed by every member of the orchestra. Despite its decidedly upmarket connections, the place maintains a laid-back atmosphere and is popular with locals from open till close. 4Open 08:30 - 02:00. P A 6BW Insomnia C-1, Strahinjica Bana 66a, tel. (+381) 11

328 3 715. Visit this warm cosy café in the heart of Belgrade’s nightlife district for a relaxing atmosphere and good coffee during the day, or come in the evening when the place transforms into full party mode - including the opening of the back room, which suggestively includes a large red bed in the corner and deep purple walls. You can expect to see lots of glamourous looking people dressed to impress, so it’s best to do the same. 4Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00.

Kontra Bar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 59, tel. (+381) 64 82 66 438, kontrabar1@gmail.com, www.kontrabar. rs. Located right in the thick of Belgrade’s nightlife action - on the corner of Strahinjića Bana and Knjeginje Ljubice Kontra is a popular place for a coffee or sandwich during the day, and an even more popular cocktail bar after the sun goes down. This is thanks in large part to it’s selection of over 150 different cocktails, all of which are 50% off on Wednesday nights. On Friday nights it’s four drinks for the price of three and live house mixes courtesy of resident DJ Luka, while Saturdays are usually reserved for special offers and promotions. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. Belgrade In Your Pocket

19, www.rakiabar.com. A tiny bar that serves 130 different types of Serbian rakija (brandy), all different in aroma, strength and therapeutic qualities and served with a variety of snacks. Though this is ideally the place to stop by on your way to dinner for a shot or two to boost your appetite, the cheerful laughter of the guests will tell you that stopping after the first round is no easy task, and that you are likely to forget all about your original plans for the evening. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PABX

Red Bar C-2, Skadarska 17. Located in the middle of

Skadarlija - Belgrade’s cobbled throwback to the late 19th century - the bar’s two terraces are prime people-watching platforms. The warm wood and brick interior is a quiet place to relax during a long day of sightseeing, but get crowded at night with locals, expats and tourists downing beers and cocktails till well after midnight. 4Open 11:00 - 02:00. PJ6BXW

Three Carrots Irish Pub C-2, Kneza Miloša 16, tel. (+381) 11 268 37 48. The place to socialise to the sounds of Irish music and beer while watching football games. The atmosphere is always cheer ful since a lot of Serbs root for Celtic and consider the Irish their halfbrothers (though in real life that level of affection is often not reciprocated outside the pub). Guinness Draught, fast food. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. P A LGX

Casinos Admiral Casino C-1, Kralja Petra 38-42, (+381) 62 623 366 kralja_petra@slotclubadmiral.com , www.slotclubadmiral.com. Operated by the Serbian subsidiary of AGI (Austrian Gaming Industries) and part of the Novomatic Group, a leading European firm in the field of production, implementation and distribution equipment in the field of gambling, Admiral Casinos have been bringing international standards to games of chance in Serbia since 1994. There currently 19 Admiral Clubs operating throughout Serbia (including 9 in Belgrade), with thousands of players visiting each day. Certified machines, original, unique services and the protection of players and responsible gaming are what make Admiral Slot Clubs a name you can trust. 4Open 9:00 - 03:00. Grand Casino A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. (+381) 11 220 28 00, www.casino-beograd.com. The largest area offering games of chance in SouthEastern Europe is located in Hotel Jugoslavija, on the Danube Quay. Besides tables (Black Jack, Roulette, Poker, Three Cards Poker, Punto Banco, Texas Hold’em) and slot machines, the complex provides three excuisite restaurants, Roulette Bar, Piano Bar, a VIP area and luxury jewelry Gift Shop. 4Open 24hrs. PUKAEL belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Nightlife Academy

cafe bar

www.nightlifeacademy.com, info@nightlifeacademy.com (+381) 66 900 83 86. Forget the standard pub crawls offered by your hostel, if you want to get the true Belgrade nightlife experience these are the people you need to talk to. Not only do they offer three completely different tours led by expert 'professors', but the registration fee is less than what you'll drink which by our math means you're actually getting paid to drink with locals. If there's a better deal than that in Belgrade, we have yet to find it. Tours are explained in detail on their website, and depart from in front of the Faculty of Philosophy off Studentski Trg (where else?) every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The specialised Kafana and Belgrade Underground tours are offered on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and Friday respectively, and require advanced booking. Standard and Underground tours €15 and include 6 drinks and snacks. Kafana tour €25 and includes drinks and dinner.

Clubs

20/44 Club B-2, Savski Kej bb. Named for Belgrade’s map coordinates, 20/44 is one of the city’s more musically diverse and atmospheric clubs. With a décor described by its music director as resembling a bordello from the ‘80s, depending on the night of the week you can expect to hear anything ranging from Turkish disco to American funk to Bosnian folk songs rocking the moorings of the somewhat ramshackle houseboat located next to Branko’s Bridge. 4Open 19:00 - 04:00. P A EW Bitef Art Café C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel.

(+381) 63 59 42 94, www.bitefartcafe.co.rs. With live performances from some great club bands, this club is the all-time favourite of funk, soul and jazz enthusiasts in the city. Even though the space is somewhat confined, there’s enough room to sit or stand. The karaoke evenings are especially popular, and they include both competitions and performances. 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. P A EX

Blaywatch A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, www.blaywatch. net.rs. A popular, floating night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. LEBX Brodić B-2, Belgrade Fair, at the Sava River bank. A

few connected pontoons encircling a small anchored boat. It is not for those who tend to be careful what they sit on. The terrace of the raft looking over the river has the appearance of a grass-covered piece of earth that has been separated from land together with some jovial people and has attached itself to the small boat. They serve good rakija brandy, draught beer and pizzas, and the music typically played here

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is reggae, jazz and old-school rock. Order on the boat is kept under control by Milica, an unattractive but good-natured dog that freely roams the raft and occasionally barks at the stars. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. BS

Francuska Sobarica & Klub Batler C-2, Francuska 12, arhitektstudio@gmail.com. While glamour is the norm at most of the Belgrade’s nightlife venues, these two underground clubs (both literally and figuratively) just down the street from Trg Republike provide a welcome alternative for the more alternative crowd. A small passageway, which may or may not be manned by bouncers collecting a nominal (100-220 RSD) cover charge, leads to a central courtyard with a club down stairs on either side. Expect lots of Drum & Bass, dubstep and various electro, along with hip hop some nights. 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. Freestyler B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (+381) 64 01 333

00, www.splavfree.rs. Recently named one of the best clubs in Belgrade by hot-spot.rs, Freestyler is yet another of the floating party boats for which Belgrade has become synonymous. Located at the Sava Quay in New Belgrade, resident DJs spin an eclectic selection of music from House to Hip Hop to Disco, and themed nights include the always crazy Foam Party among others. Recommended.

Hedone Lounge Vojvode Putnika 34, tel. (+381)

62 8417 287, office@hedonelounge.com, www. hedonelounge.com. Located in a residential neighbourhood south of the city centre, a visit to Hedone Lounge is similar to visiting a friend’s house party - more specifically, a wealthy friend who lives in a mansion, always has random girls in bikinis sunning themselves by his pool and a professional chef on-call. In short, if you’re new to the city or just in town for a few days, head here to experience what it’s like for those of us who call Belgrade home. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

January - March 2013

Nightlife

Hua Hua A-3, Ada Ciganlija bb, tel. (+381) 63 239 373, (+381) 63 380 205. One of Belgrade’s more unpretentious and raucous floating riverboat clubs, it may not look like much from the outside, but most nights of the week you’re likely find it packed wall-to-swaying-wall with a cross-section of attractive Serbian party-goers dancing to a live band. Located on Ada Ciganlija, it’s best reached by taxi, especially since the drinks tend to come served by the bottle rather than the glass. 4Open closed, Fri, Sat 23:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PEX Idiot C-2, Dalmatinska 13. This miniature club is a frequent

meeting place for artists and other wacky individuals. It is often so packed that people have to stand in the street holding their drinks. During the day, its small open terrace looking out to the Botanical Gardens is frequently visited by students having their first “morning coffee” at around 14:00. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBX

Mladost B-2, Karadjordjeva 44, tel. (+381) 64 11 30 774. Designed by noted nightspot architect Djordje Gec, this bar-cum-club is divided between two levels, upstairs there’s a long bar with colourfull somewhat futuristic furniture and design, while the basement below opts for cave-like aesthetics. Music takes centre stage here with a mix of disco, funk, jazz and house, and separate DJ booths downstairs. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PJAX

Mr Stefan Brown C -2, Nemanjina 4, tel. ( +381) 65 556 64 56, office@mrstefanbraun.rs, info@mrstefanbraun. rs, www.mrstefanbraun.rs. Located on the ninth storey of a commercial building. Here you will find a lovely view of the city, different types of cocktails, and a large bar in the centre of the club, sturdy enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing guests. The club features various theme nights depending on the day of the week, but it’s definitely not an appropriate spot for those below the age of twenty. The club is often packed, so try to get there before 01:00, or they might not let you in. 4Open 23:00 - 07:00. PX Ona a ne neka druga Grobljanska 9, tel. (+381) 63 745 40 00. A small bistro in the Gardoš area of Zemun, where good times are guaranteed. It is dedicated to women and men are only allowed to come in if they have female companion. The waiters are all men. Women (only) are allowed to break glasses and give waiters an appreciative pinch. The interior is quite charming, and the fact that the bistro is often jam-packed and stuffy doesn’t stop the guests from getting up on the benches and dancing with joy to the sounds of live music that is frequently performed here. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PULEB X Plastic C-2, Corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska St., tel. (+381) 324 54 37, www.club-plastic.com. Famous for its futuristic setting and pulsating sounds of of electronic music often played by foreign DJs, Plastic is one of the most popular places among Belgrade*s youth. Live gigs are also

performed here occasionally. The club is divided into two levels. The lower, bigger level Plastic is mostly frequented by a younger crowd who enjoy listening to the sounds of mainstream house, pop and R&B. The upper level, Mint, is kind of a lounge bar where you will find fans of all ages who are into electronic music. The club is so popular that there is often a swarm of people in front waiting to try and get in. Entrance fees depend on the event. 4Open 23:30 - 06:00. PAEX

Povetarac Brodarska bb, tel. (+381) 63 57 71 32. An

old cargo ship permanently docked on the bank of the Sava river. The deck is perfect place to loaf around while enjoying a beer and listening to terrific music. The people are upbeat and the atmosphere is cosy. The evenings are reserved for DJ performances and occasionaly live music. On rainy days, the fun continues in the ship hull. Since it is situated in a rather remote part of the river bank-away from public transport, the punters have to rely on taxis to get there. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00. PEGBX

Public Affair B-2, Karadjordjeva 9, tel. (+381) 64 8737

570. Only operating at the weekends, this newly opened New York themed club has already become a hit with Belgrade’s clubbers. Once past the red carpet, velvet ropes and mirrored stairway leading to the basement, the place is actually a bit more laid back than you might assume - with faux graffiti on the walls and enough Serbian hipsters to make a Brooklyn transplant feel at home. While reservations aren’t required, they’re never a bad idea. 4 Open Fri & Sat 00:00-04:30. PAEX

ŠKD C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 7, tel. (+381) 69 699

096. An underground club - both figuratively and literally other than a small plaque with the Cyrillic letters шкд just outside the basement-level door, there’s little to clue you on the party going on inside. Dark and smokey with low-ceilings and a small dance floor, things don’t get going here till well after midnight. 4Open 20:00 - 02:00. PJAX

The Tube C-2, Simina 21, tel. (+381) 64 508 22 72. Located in the basement/former nuclear shelter of a postwar building in downtown Belgrade. The Architect, Đorđe Gec has created areas which interconnect with one another fluidly throughot the whole of the 350m² of space. The music is eclectic but mostly based on funk, house, nu jazz and techno played by famous foreign and Serbian DJs. The admission charge depends on the event, but it is free most of the time. 4Open 22:00 - 05:00. PAEX Tramvaj D-3, Ruzveltova 2, tel. (+381) 11 380 82 69. Live band performances each and every night of the week - jazz, blues, funk and Latino music. The beer is cheap, and the people who come here are mainly students looking for a fun night out. A laid-back atmosphere but non-smokers may find this place stuffy bit. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PAEB

Adult entertainment Angels C-2, Trg Republike 5, (+381) 64 109 06 62 4Open 10:00-05:00. PKAL Romansa C-2, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11 362 62 58, (+381) 63 24 45 61. 4Open 22:00 - 05:00. Belgrade In Your Pocket

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What to see

The imposing walls of Kalemegdan Fortress

Essential Belgrade

Ada Bridge www.savabridge.com. One of the largest

construction projects ever undertaken in Serbia (and at a cost of over €400m also one of the most expensive), after nearly eight years of planning and three years of construction the massive Ada Bridge was opened to the public at the stroke of midnight on 31 December 2011. Forever changing the skyline of Belgrade, the structure is the largest single pylon suspension bridge in the world, with separate spans of 376m, 338m and 250m and a height of some 200m. Originally envisaged by urban planners as far back as 1923, the bridge will now form the centrepiece of the city's new Inner City Semi-Ring Road, which will help divert traffic from city centre with three vehicle lanes, one tram track and one pedestrian/cycling lane in each direction. Already featured in an episode of the Discovery Channel's popular series Build It Bigger, the bridge figures to become an essential tourist attraction in the years to come.

Belgrade fortress B-1. Located on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed destroyed nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th century on a plateau in front of the fortress, which was cleared for centuries to allow for an unobstructed view of the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its many shaded benches, random sculptures, an art pavilion, zoo, amusement park and souvenir vendors. It is a favourite haunt for chess players, squirrels and couples in love. Most of the preserved fortress ramparts and gates are located in the Upper Town, as well as the Military Museum, St. Petka and Ružica churches, Roman Well (an intriguing building whose eerie waters have claimed many lives) and the symbol of Belgrade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the statue of Pobednik offers stunning views over belgrade.inyourpocket.com

the rivers and incredible sunsets. The Lower Town on the banks of the Danube was the main city centre in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls and had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula Nebojša (Daredevil Tower) from 1460, the Turkish Bath from the 18th century (which today houses a planetarium) and the Gate of Carl VI from 1736. No admission fee. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, (+381) 11

245 03 50, (+381) 11 243 09 57. The biggest open-air market in Belgrade is a vibrant place which valiantly fights off the competition from the supermarkets. Besides the obvious fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs, fish and seafood, honey, pickles and craftwork, you will find national delicacies such as ‘sir’ (cottage cheese) and ‘kajmak’ (clotted cream). Take a walk through the colourful stands, chat with the vendors and you will be given fruit, cheese or prosciutto to taste for free. You will also learn that fruit and vegetables of perfect shape and colour, that have come straight from greenhouses and ‘have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily disdained. Those with a beautifully fresh scent, sold by elderly women in headscarves, are vastly preferred. If you get hungry, you can buy grilled lobster and a bread roll for 200 dinars. The market is lined with bakeries, pastry houses, restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this wonderful place before the end of the year as proposed renovations aim to make it look like a supermarket with a glass facade. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00

Knez Mihailova Street C-2. The main promenade and shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to the throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street. Kosančićev Venac Street B-2. A stroll down this cobbled

street will conjure up the spirit of Old Belgrade. It is located on a hill above the Sava River Port, where a Serbian settlement developed outside the fortress walls in the Middle Ages.

January - March 2013

What to see Today, it features art studios, galleries, cafés, the main building of the College of Arts and the remains of the National Library, which was destroyed in 1941 by Luftwaffe bombing and an entire collection of books and priceless medieval manuscripts in the Cyrillic alphabet along with it. The street is named after a Serbian hero from the Kosovo Battle of 1389.

Republic Square C-2. The main city square which features the National Theatre (completed in 1869), the National Museumand a monument to Prince Mihailo, which was erected in 1882. The area is popular with Belgraders as a meeting point. It was once the location of the infamous Stambol Gate, which was the main entrance to the Belgrade Fortress. Today this square hosts concerts, demonstrations and various other events. The National Museum is closed to visitors because it does not have the right conditions for displaying the artefacts and the current reconstruction process will take several years. So, unfortunately you will not be able to see the large collection of international paintings (particularly of the impressionists) stored at the museum, or its most valued treasure - Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (the Miroslav Gospel), the oldest preserved manuscript in the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet (from 1190) with its very rich adornments. Sava and Danube Rivers Experience the Belgrade rivers

from up close - the Sava (female gender, temperamental) and the Danube (mighty and powerful). You can take a walk or bicycle ride along the shore, stop by for a drink or have lunch at one of the many floating restaurants.

Skadarlija C-2, Skadarska Street. A vintage street

that dates from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The Two Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century, it became a hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters, and actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for the higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menus. The evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the mill food and indifferent waiters.

Historic buildings

Albania building Knez Mihailova 2-4. Located on Terazije - the centre of the city and the Balkan Peninsula. Terazije is a landmark from which all distances in Serbia are measured. Completed in 1939, Albania was the tallest building in Belgrade and the Balkans for a long time. It was named after a tavern named Albania, which occupied the same site. Workers digging its foundations turned up a mammoth’s

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Behaviour in the church When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only. skeleton. It is one of the symbols of Belgrade, and one of very few buildings which were spared the destructions of WW2.

Kafana ‘?’ B-2, Kralja Petra 6. This authentic Serbian tavern of an unusual name is located in one of the oldest houses in the city. Erected in 1823, it opened as a tavern in 1826, and was the first to install a billiard table in Belgrade, in 1834. There is still a wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes in one of the corners. Great for national cuisine and draught beer. The tavern has a summer terrace, and you can always hear the lively buzz of conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBA Millennium Tower Located on Gardoš, approached by a path leading from Grobljanska Street, Millennium Tower was built by the Hungarians in 1896 to celebrate a thousand years of their presence in the Pannonian Plain. Four such towers were erected on the border and this one marks the southernmost corner of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It was built on the ruins of a 15th century fortress and has been closed to the public for some time now but is well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old part of Zemun, is such a quaint and romantic place. Only the twittering of swallows interrupts the calm of the narrow, cobbled streets and rows of low-slung houses. Gardoš features a broad range of small cafés and fish restaurants and the plateau in front of the tower offers magnificent views of the city. Princess Ljubica’s Residence B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 64. A representative building dating from the first half of the 19th century. Built on the orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović for his family, Princess Ljubica and sons Milan and Mihailo, and completed in 1831. The permanent exhibition includes original furniture made in various styles of the 19th century: Biedermaier, Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo and Oriental. It hosts themed exhibitions in the basement, in the Vaults Hall. Admission 100 dinars, students, pupils, unemployed and pensioners 50 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Royal compound Located on top of Dedinje hill, the compound covers an area of 135 hectares. It includes a Royal Palace, which was completed in 1929, and a White Palace that

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What to see was finished in 1936 and was intended for the King’s sons, along with service buildings. A tour of the royal compound includes a visit to the representative sections of both palaces (and a display of artwork by Poussin, Breughel, Canaletto, Veronese, Rembrandt), a chapel, royal park and the g rave o f D avorjanka P aunović (the secretary t o a nd greatest love of Josip Broz Tito, who abolished the monarchy and moved into the royal compound when he came to power). Nowadays, this is again one of the Karađorđević family’s homes. They are: HRH Crown Prince Aleksandar II, Princess Katherine, Hereditary Prince Petar and Princes Filip and Aleksandar. The guided tour takes 2 hours. Information and registration at: Tourist Information Centre, Makedonska 5, tel. (+381) 11 334 34 60.

Jewish Belgrade

Historic Churches

St. Mark’s Church C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra

17. Constructed between 1931 and 1940 in the SerboByzantine style, next to an old church from 1835 which was destroyed during bombing in 1941. The decoration of the church interior was abandoned due to the war and it is still unfinished. The church houses some of the most valuable Serbian icons and a sarcophagus with the remains of Serbian Emperor Stefan Dušan inside.

St. Petka’s Chapel B -1 , Belgrade For tress.

This contemporary church was built in 1937, above a miraculous spring. In the Middle Ages, this was the site of a church where the holy remains of St. Petka’s (Paraskevi) were placed until 1521. The chapel still guards the saint’s hand, and the ill come to wash their faces during spring. St Petka is much venerated among Belgraders.

St. Sava Temple C-3, Svetosavski trg. St. Sava (1169-1236) was the first Archbishop of Serbia. The temple is built on the site where his remains were burned by the Ottoman Turks in 1594. The design to build the temple was created in 1894 and the construction began in 1936, only to be interrupted with Germany’s attack on Yugoslavia in 1941. It recommenced in 1985, on securing consent from the state. The interior of the church is currently being decorated. St. Sava Temple is the largest place of worship for the Serbian people and can receive 10,000 people at any one time. Its base is 91 x 81m, and its central dome, weighing 4,000 tons, is 70m high, with the main gold-plated cross extending for another 12m, making it the highest peak in Belgrade. Cathedral Church B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića bb.

The main church in the city, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was built on the site of a former cathedral, dating from the 16th century, which was repeatedly demolished and desecrated by the Ottoman Turks. The church contains the holy remains of the Serbian saint Emperor Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house) and it is the burial site of some of the most important figures in Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and the Serbian rulers of the Obrenović dynasty - Miloš, Mihailo and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a gold-plated carved iconostasis. Across from the church is the seat of the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church, a building completed in 1935.

Mosque

Baryakli Mosque C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 11,

tel. (+381) 11 262 24 28. Built during Ottoman rule, around 1575. It was named Baryakli after a baryak (flag) which was raised to signal the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all the mosques of Belgrade. The only mosque still functioning in Belgrade.

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The Book of Esther is recited in Belgrade on the 15th day of Adar (Shushan Purim). Ashkenazi Jews, who migrated from central Europe, settled over the centuries along the Sava River. Following the 1492 expulsion from Spain, the Sephardic Jews settled in the Belgrade area of Dorćol. Just before WW2, the Belgrade Jews, like Serbs, were divided over their loyalties to the King and to Communism. There were divisions even among Jewish masons, some of whom belonged to the Serbian Lodge and others to Jewish Bene Berith Lodge in Belgrade. During WW2, under German occupation, Belgrade Jews suffered a terrible fate and the city underwent the infamy of being the first in Europe to be proclaimed as Judenfrei. The Baruh Brothers Choir, founded in 1879 as a Serbo-Jewish Si nging Society, is still active. Before WW2, the Jewish community in Belgrade was about 12,000 strong, and today about 2,200 Jews live in Belgrade Jewish Cemetery D-2, Mije Kovačevića 1, tel. (+381) 11 276 82 50. A Sephardic Cemetery dating from 1888, it was later expanded and became Jewish Cemetery. The Ashkenazi Cemetery, located across the road in the New Cemetery, is no longer in function. Jewish Community of Belgrade C-1, Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 42 89. Founded in 1866. Jewish Community of Zemun Dubrovačka 21, tel. (+381) 19 56 26. Founded in 1739. Jewish Historical Museum C-1, Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 26 34. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Synagogue C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 19. Built in 1926 by the Ashkenazi Jews.

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What to see than 32,000 expertly treated objects of applied art, among them works of art of outstanding artistic and cultural value. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 100 RSD, children under 12 and art students free.

Museum of Aviation Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. (+381) 11

Entrance of Ethnographic Museum

Museums

Ethnographic Museum C-1, Studentski trg 13,

tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88, info@etnografskimuzej.rs, www. etnografskimuzej.rs. The permanent display here features a rich collection of folk costumes, kilims, craftwork, tools, furniture, old photos depicting folk rites and jewellery. Themed exhibitions are mounted from time to time. There is a souvenir and handiwork shop. Levels one and three are wheelchair friendly. Admission 150 dinars, students and children 60 dinars. Sun: admission free. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Military Museum B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.(+381)

11 334 34 41, vojnimuzej@mod.gov.rs, www.muzej. mod.gov.rs. Founded in 1878. The larger part of the old collection was carried off by the Germans in WW2. The remaining items span ancient to modern times (weapons, armour, wartime flags, paintings, photographs, equipment, uniforms and decorations). There is a permanent display within the museum building, while on the outside, artillery weapons from the 18th-20th century and armoured vehicles line the ramparts and trenches of the fortress. The most recent acquisitions include a Humvee captured from the US Army in 1999. Admission 150 dinars, children 70 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon.

Museum of Applied Art Vuka Karadzica 18, tel.

(+381) 11 2626 841, info@mpu.rs, www.mpu.rs. The Museum of Applied Art was founded in 1950, and belongs to the category of specialised museums. The main activity of The Museum of Applied Art is systematic collecting, protecting, studying, exhibiting and publishing works of applied art. Apart from the works of art referring to applied arts of Serbian people, related material from other European countries and the world, which came to our country through cultural and economic relations, is also collected in the Museum. During the very first year of its existence, the Museum purchased an exceptionally valuable collection of various artistically treated objects, collected over thirty years by artist Ljuba Ivanovic. The collection comprises of more than 3,000 artifacts, among which jewellery, old manuscripts and printed books, objects carved in wood, horn and motherof-pearl, woodcut and painted icons, etc., stand out for their historic and artistic value. The oldest artifacts in The Museum of Applied Art date from IV century BC, and belong to the coin collection (coins from ancient Greece) in the Metalwork Department, while the collections in the Department for contemporary applied arts contain objects of the most recent artistic production. Thus, the Museum’s collections reflect the development of objects of applied art in a 2,400 years’ span. Nowadays, the Museum disposes of more

Belgrade In Your Pocket

319 19 37, kontakt@muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. rs, www. muzejvazduhoplovstva.org.rs. Founded in 1957, this museum owns various types of aircraft, engines, equipment, aircraft models and photographs. The exhibits are displayed within what is an architecturally striking building, and in the surrounding patio. This place is valued world-wide for its collection of WW2 fighter aircraft, which include a Messerchmitt Me-109, Hurricane Mk IV, Spitfire Mk Vc, Yak-3, Illushin IL-2, Thunderbolt P-47 and the only surviving Fiat G-50 in the world. It houses the remains of the only downed F-117 Nighthawk stealth fighter in the world, a wreckage of a US F-16 and cruise missiles and unmanned aircraft shot down in 1999. Admission 250 dinars, children 190-210 dinars, foreigners 500 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon.

Museum of Yugoslav History Botićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 85, info@mij.rs, www.mij.rs. Consisting of three separate buildings, the Muzej Istorije Jugoslavije should be the first stop for visitors interested in the former Yugoslav state. With over 200,000 items the museum presents a comprehensive picture of the country that existed from WWII till the 1990s, with special emphasis placed on the life and work of Josip Broz Tito. In fact, the museums premises contain the so-called House of Flowers, which is the final resting place of Tito. Meanwhile temporary exhibitions and special events are held in the adjacent 25th of May museum, while the Old Museum houses a dizzying array of gifts given to Tito by various foreign dignitaries, statesmen and visiting delegations over the years, and serves as a sort of mini-ethnological presentation of the represented countries. Definitely not to be missed! Admission 200 dinars 4Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Nikola Tesla Museum D-3, Krunska 51, tel: (+381) 11

243 38 86, info@tesla-museum.org, www.teslamuseum. org. Nikola Tesla (1856–1943), a Serbian inventor, scientist and electrical engineer, who made revolutionary contributions to the discipline of electricity and magnetism. He is the inventor of the AC current, the three-phase system of power transmission, induction motor, high-frequency power generators and transformers, pioneer of MRI, robotics, wireless communications and remote control technologies. In 1943, the Supreme Court of the United States credited him as being the inventor of the radio. The unit for measuring magnetic field was named tesla in his honour. The museum houses his personal legacy, scientific papers and the urn with his ashes. Demonstrations of his experiments are available for pre-registered group visits. Admission 150/300 RSD, for locals/foreigners. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon.

Yugoslav Film Archive C-2, Kosovska 11 (cinema), tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50. Founded in 1949, the archive is considered to be one of the five most important in the world. Its collections include over 95,000 copies of national and international films, posters, photographs, scripts and artefacts, such as the Lumiere brother’s camera No. 335 from 1896. Film buffs will enjoy daily shows of art films from the archives. Zepter Museum C 2, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. (+381) 11 328 33 39, muzejzepter@zepter.rs, www. zeptermuseum.rs. The first private ar t museum in Belgrade was opened on July 1, 2010. In an old historical building, on three levels and over 1200 m2 , the exhibited artworks from the rich museum collection (over 350 works and 134 artists) represent the art scene in Serbia in the

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What to see second half of 20th century and the beginning of the new millennium. In addition to the permanent exhibition, themed exhibitions and cultural events are held in the museum. There is a souvenir shop and Art Café. Admission 200 dinars, 100 dinars (groups, students) and free admission (students of art faculties, experts, persons over age 60). Sun: admission free.4Open: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun 10:00 – 20:00, Thu and Sat 12:00 -22:00, Closed Mon.

soldier from World War I), a Memorial Park (in honour of the victims of World War II), the Monument to Soviet War Vetrans (commemorating Red Army officers killed in a plane crash on Avala in 1964) and the Monument of Vasa Čarapić (one of the leaders of the First Serbian Uprising in 1804, which liberated Belgrade from the Turks). The mountain is well-connected to the city centre by public transport, and is most easily reached by bus from the Trošarina neighbourhood.

Parks & Gardens

Park of Pioneers C-2. Opened to the public in 1944, this

Belgrade Zoo Mali Kalemegdan 8, tel. +381 11

26 245 26, beozoovrt@eunet.rs, www.beozoovrt. izlog. org. Founded in 1936, Belgrade’s Zoo is one of the oldest in all of Europe, while its location within the city’s famous Kalemegdan Fortress also gives the premises a unique atmosphere and makes it easily accessible right in the centre of town. Currently occupying over seven hectares, the zoo boasts over 2,000 animals and nearly 300 different species - including rare white lions and white tigers, as well as Muja, who is said to be the world’s oldest alligator. Also not to be missed are the fine series of mosaics covering the institution’s outer walls - depicting various animals, they were created in cooperation with the Faculty of Fine Arts in Belgrade. 4 Open every day 08:00 till sunset. Tickets 400 RSD, 300 RSD children, free for children under 3.

Jevremovac Botanic Garden C-2, entrance at the corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska Streets. A perfect spot to take a break from the bustle of the city. Founded in 1874, covering an area of 5 hectares, it is home to diverse plants from all over the world, a conservatory constructed in 1892 and a Japanese garden. Admission 120 dinars. Children under 7, pregnant women and students - admission free. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00. Košutnjak Spread out over a hill that is 250m high, this 330 hectare forest park used to be the royal hunting grounds until 1903, when it was opened to the public. The forest, a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees, is crisscrossed with numerous trim trails and nature walks and there are picnic tables in the clearings for the overwhelming majority who prefer to just sit and enjoy a barbeque. The Košutnjak Sports Centre features an indoor and five outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a football pitch and volleyball and basketball facilities. There are a number of restaurants beneath shady trees and a spring at the foot of the hill, whose water is safe to drink. Mountain Avala . Located some 16km from the city centre, though entirely within the municipality of Belgrade, at 511 metres Mount Avala earns its title by a scant eleven metres but owing to the surrounding lowlands it still provides beautiful panoramic views of the city and beyond. The mountain has been protected as a nature reserve since 1859 by the order of Prince Miloš Obrenović of Serbia, who originally intended to have it surrounded by a massive fence, and has served as a recreational area for the residents of Belgrade for even longer. Aside from an abundance of animal species the mountain is also known for its diverse plant life, which includes some 600 species of flowers, herbs and trees - many of which are also protected due to their rarity. Man-made sights can also be found in abundance on the mountain, including the Monument to the Unknown Hero (completed in 1938 and dedicated to the unknown Serbian

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park was once a palace garden. It is laid out between the Old Palace and the New Palace, the Old Palace being the residence of Obrenović royal line and the present city hall, which was completed in 1884. The park was demolished during both world wars and post-war renovations changed its appearance considerably. The New Palace, a residence of the Karađorđević dynasty, was completed in 1921 and today houses the official seat of the President of Serbia. The park features an observation post of the HQ of the Serbian Army from WW1, relocated from the Salonika Front.

Tašmajdan Park C-2. A favourite place for parents and nannies to take their children for a walk. The park is laid out between St. Mark’s Church, the Russian Church, the Central Post Office (built in 1934), the Children’s Cultural Centre, Duško Radović children’s theatre, the children’s amusement park, a sports centre featuring indoor and outdoor swimming pools and the main building of the staterun TV company (hit during NATO’s 1999 bombing). In 1830, the Ottoman Sultan’s charter on the internal independence of Serbia was read out at Tašmajdan. Since Roman times it served as a quarry deep bellow the ground and doubled as a cemetery above (Tašmajdan means quarry in Turkish). The cemetery was relocated to the present New Cemetery in the late 19th century. The cave and caverns below the park (an area of about 3,000m², up to 10m in height) were once used as food depots, for military arsenals and as shelters. Regrettably, tours of these fascinating underground chambers are not available at present. Topčider Park A great place to spend a sunny afternoon.

Prince Miloš Obrenović set about developing the park in 1831, by furnishing it with royal necessities: a residence, a church, barracks and a tavern. The residence was completed in 1834, and that is where the Prince lived his last years and where he died. When the residence was finished, the area was planted with plane-trees, the biggest of which is protected by the state and is 44m high, with a crown diameter of 50m. It casts shade of 1,400 sqm. You can ride round the park in a carriage and have scrumptious roasted lamb on the terrace of Milošev Konak Restaurant. The park hosts a monument to the Swiss professor, publicist and criminologist Archibald Reiss (1876-1930), who arrived in Serbia as a member of a team inquiring into the atrocities committed by the Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian army in Serbia during WW1, and stayed to live in Belgrade, where he founded the Belgrade police crime lab.

Cemeteries

New Cemetery D-2, Ruzveltova 50, tel. (+381)

11 207 13 00. Founded in 1886, this is the oldest existing cemetery in Belgrade. Its origins are linked to the relocation of the Old Cemetery, which once occupied the site of the present-day Tašmajdan Park. Many important figures in Serbian history - scientists, artists, military leaders, statesmen - were buried here. Quite a number of gravestones are fine works of art in their own right and were created by well-known sculptors. Part of the site is occupied by French, Italian, Russian, Bulgarian and AustroHungarian military cemeteries from WW1 and the English Military Cemetery from WW2. 4Open 07:00 - 19:00

January - March 2013

What to see

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Mail & Phones Important phone numbers Police: 192 Fire Department: 193 Ambulance: 194 Road assistance: 1987 Phone numbers information: 11811

Posting a letter

The postal code for Belgrade is 11000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with the logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.

Post

Post Office 1 C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 324 34 81. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 3 C-2, Zmaj Jovina 17, tel. (+381) 11 321 00 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 6 C-2, Savska 2, tel. (+381) 11 3643 117. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Post Office 8 Glavna 8, tel. (+381) 11 371 40 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 123 A-1, Bulevar umetnosti 4-6 (Mercator Shopping Centre), tel. (+381) 11 311 68 47. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.

Express Mail

DHL Jurija gagarina 36v, tel. (+381) 11 310 55 00. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.

FedEx Autoput 22, tel. (+381) 11 314 90 75. 4Open

08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Post Express C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Serbia. 4Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. UPS Nikola Tesla airport, tel. (+381) 11 228 64 22. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

City Express Mail

Beo Messenger C-3, Birčaninova 8, tel. (+381) 11 264 69 73. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. BG info Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 38 300 50. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. City runner Vidikovački venac 96, tel. (+381) 11 369 94 70. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

Making a phonecall

To call a local number within Belgrade, dial the number directly and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (00), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Belgrade is 011). You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for

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international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minutes with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying a Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

Mobile phones

There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets and in the case of the MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 7, tel. 064 789. www. mts.telekom.rs Telenor C-2, Kosovska 49, tel. 063 98 63. www. telenor.co.rs Vip mobile C-2, Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 060 12 34. www.vipmobile.rs

Taxis Quite a few taxi operators in Belgrade are reckless drivers who hate to take passengers on short rides (e.g. from Slavija to Terazije). A taxi must display the name of its taxi company and its ID number. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the airport and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Taxi fare in Belgrade is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 140 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 55 dinars at the low tariff (Mon to Sat 06:00 - 22:00) or 70 dinars at the high tariff (Mon to Sat 22:00 - 06:00, Sunday and public holidays). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. Beogradski taksi, taxi company, (Tel. 9801) offer fixed, attractive rates to the airport. There is usually no extra charge for the luggage but if the taxi driver feels entitled to make that charge, he would have to state so at the outset, or you are not obliged to pay it. A tip is not required but is appreciated, so you may round off the fare. Pets are transported with the driver’s consent. Many Belgraders like to sit next to the driver and have a nice chat. You can ask the taxi driver about hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics.

Trusted taxi companies Alfa taxi tel. (+381) 11 98 07 Beotaxi tel.(+381) 11 970 Beogradski taxi tel. (+381) 11 9801 Bell taxi tel. (+381) 11 98 08 Lux taxi tel. (+381) 11 303 31 23 Maxis taxi tel. (+381) 11 98 04 NBA taxi tel. (+381) 11 318 57 77 Pink taxi tel. (+381) 11 98 03 Plavi taxi tel. (+381) 11 355 59 99 Taxi bell tel. (+381) 11 98 08 Žuti taxi tel. (+381) 11 98 02 January - March 2013

Getting around WiFi Hotspots

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel: (+381) 11 364

06 25. 4Open 10:00 - 00:00 Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel (+381) 11 262 58 39. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Cantina de Frida B-2, Karadjordjeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00 Cruise Sava Quay (Block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75 10. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00 Hot Spot Café C-1, Studentski trg 21, tel. (+381) 11 263 92 05. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 31. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00 Lava Bar C-3, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 25. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02 00 Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328 89 95. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00 Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381) 11 334 86 90. 4Open 08:00 - 00:00 Metropolitan Grill B-2 Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30 Municipality of New Belgrade A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 167. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Salvadore Dali C-2, Hilandarska 20, tel. (+381) 11 334 37 78. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Plato C-2, Akademski plato 1, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00 Sport Café C-2, Makedonska 4, tel. (+381) 11 324 31 77. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00 Student Park C-2. 4Open 24hrs.

Public transport

Belgrade does not have an underground railway system and it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (although it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, at 42m below ground level). City transport comprises buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buses are operated by a public utility company controlled by the city council and a number of private companies, which accounts for the differences in shape, colour and age of the buses out on the streets. There are only single-ride tickets, available at most kiosks at a flat rate of 50 dinars (regardless of the form of transport). You can also buy a ticket on board, from the driver, for 100 dinars. You have to validate your ticket once you get on board, by punching it with a ticket validator, installed near each door. A ride without a valid ticket is fined 3 000 dinars. Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:00 to 00:00. During night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals from 00:10 to 02:10. Night buses depart from special stops at the Republic Square towards other parts of the city. The night fare is 120 dinars, available on board. You are advised to avoid trams if you are in a hurry, because one broken tram blocks an entire line (or two), and this invariably happens right in the middle of two stops, in pouring rain. Belgrade public transport is generally efficient. In the Old Town, a bus may prove to be faster than a car, because most streets have bus-only lanes.

Trains

Central Railway Station B-2, Savski trg 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 28 99. www.serbianrailways.com. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world), or Romantika Belgrade In Your Pocket

Train (steam locomotive and authentic 1st, 2nd and 3rd class carriages from the early 20th century that take you for journeys outside Belgrade) - see the Serbian Railways website for more information. 4Open 24hrs. Train tickets Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Central Railway Station and at: Putnik, C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 1, tel. (+381) 11 324 56 42. Rekreaturs, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 3, tel. (+381) 11 323 05 58 Wasteels, B-2, Central Railway Station, tel. (+381) 11 265 88 68

Airlines

Aeroflot B-5, Knez Mihailova 30/3, tel. (+381) 11 328 60 71, begtosu@aeroflot.ru, www.aeroflot.ru. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Aerosvit B-5, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. (+381) 11 328 82 37, aerosvit@eunet.rs, www.aerosvit.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Air France B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 22. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia B-5, Terazije 43, tel. (+381) 11 324 50 00, www.alitalia.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 (+381) 11 324 80 77, office.belgrade@austrian.com, www. austrian.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 328 13 03, www.britishairways.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines B-5, Kralja Milana 6, tel. (+381) 11 361 45 92, beg.booking@czechairlines.com, www. czechairlines.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 17, tel. (+381) 11 32 32 372, jatbegto@jat.com, www.jat.com. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Lufthansa B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 49 44, www.lufthansa.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Montenegro Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 23, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 22, www.montenegroairlines. com. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Olympic Airlines B -5, Vase Čarapića 14, tel. (+381) 11 303 67 50, olybeg@eunet.rs, w w w. olympicairlines.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Srilankan Airlines C-2, Francuska 17/1, tel. (+381) 11 334 82 64, www.srilankan.rs. 4Open 09:00 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Swiss Air Lines B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 01 40, www.swiss.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 303 61 95, flightacademy@thy.com, www.thy. com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun.

Airport

Nikola Tesla airport tel. (+381) 11 209 44 44, www. beg.aero Located 18km to the west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin, likely to claim the title of the foggiest site in Belgrade. Though the sun may be shining brightly above the rest of Belgrade, your flight could still be late due to the fog that often does not venture farther than the airport perimeter. The airport building has been renovated belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Getting around recently but there are still some nooks and crannies where renovation work began only to be left unfinished. Serbia’s national airline is JAT Airways, which operates a fairly old fleet but is nevertheless one of the safest air carriers in the world. At time of writing, Germanwings and Norwegian Air are the only low-cost airlines which fly to Belgrade.

Avio taxi

Air Pink Jove Ilića 13, tel. (+381) 11 391 01 00, www. airpink.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 Prince Aviation A-1, Goce Delčeva 40-42, tel. (+381) 11 303 23 03, www.princeaviation.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Train Schedule From Belgrade Dep. Arr. 10:10 20:09 22:10 07:53 15:55 05:39 07:50 08:25 05:50 17:50 21:40 07:27 07:50 17:00 21:50 07:06 07:50 17:40 21:15 07:15 07:50 21:50 22:00 12:31 21:20 09:00 05:50 12:56 10:35 17:50 21:50 04:50 10:45 08:20

City BAR BAR BUCHAREST ISTANBUL LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA SKOPJE SKOPJE SOFIA SOFIA THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI VIENNA ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH

To Belgrade Dep. Arr. 21:00 06:26 12:20 21:43 21:45 08:54 22:00 19:20 14:40 23:27 08:15 17:20 09:00 18:06 20:45 06:00 11:55 19:20 20:20 04:50 06:00 18:06 17:05 05:45 18:50 06:15 06:06 12:25 09:00 15:38 23:50 06:20 21:40 17:20

Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

Europcar A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 59, tel. (+381)

Buses

Central Bus Station C-2, Železnička 4, tel. (+381)

11 262 71 46 (local routes), 263 62 99 (international routes), www.zeleznicesrbije.com. Busservices account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns (such as Novi Sad, Niš) running at frequent intervals throughout the day. The bus station is a ramshackle affair, quite unlikely to inspire the urge to linger awhile. Ticket windows are open 24 hrs a day and so are public toilet facilities and a restaurant, whose clientele during the night time is likely to include pickpockets, con-men, prostitutes, drowsy farmers and students waiting for the earliest morning buses, because they have nowhere to stay. The food on offer is overpriced and unsavoury. Arrivals are across the nearby park. Lasta Bus Station B-2, Železnička 2, tel. (+381) 11 334 85 55, www.lasta.rs. Lasta is the largest bus operator in Serbia, a partner of the Eurolines system and runs a large number of local and international lines. Its station is smaller and offers fewer facilities than the Central Bus Station.

Car rental

Avis B-2, Pivljanina Baje 43/6, tel. (+381) 11 367 66

44, www.avis.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 70 62, open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Sixt rent a car C-1, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. (+381) 11 328 66 54, office@sixt.rs, www.sixt.rs. 4Open 08:00 -18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed, Also at the Airport, tel. 228 63 56, open daily 07:00 - 22:00 City rent a car Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. (+381) 11 225 87 84, www.cityrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, closed Sun

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11 301 50 04, www.europcar.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 90 28, open 08:00 - 22:00. Hertz C-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. (+381) 11 202 82 00, www.hertz.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 60 17, Open 08:00 - 21:00. UniRent A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 45g, tel. (+381) 11 313 30 09, www.unirent.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 41 40, open 08:00 - 20:00. Yu tim A-2, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 71, tel. (+381) 11 228 61 61, www.yutimrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 61 61, open 08:00 - 20:00. Zim C-2 Gospodar Jevremova 48a/I, tel. (+381) 11 218 58 51, www.zim-rentacar.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Car parks

Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour parking limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You can pay for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the relevant zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English overleaf. Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS message with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone 1, 9112 for Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a confirmation message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use the parking coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for parking in a parking garage, no parking limit applies. You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle of the street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public transport, without suffering any consequences. This occurs with annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27. Marta, Svetogorska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra among others. We do not advise you to follow their example because it is an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.

Limo rental

Limo Service Cara Dušana 173 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 63 123 55 55. Lincoln TownCar (White, Black), Mercedes S 320 CDI.

January - March 2013

Getting around Flight Schedule From Belgrade Days Dep. 1-3----7 08:10 ----5-14:35 ---4--12:40 1-3---07:00 ----5--17:25 12-4-620:00 -2345-7 19:50 --3-5-7 21:00 1-----08:10 ---4--12:35 -2-4--7 13:20 -2-4--7 15:50 -2-4-608:05 ------7 06:30 1--4--20:15 --345-7 07:05 ---4--06:40 ------7 17:00 1-3---14:15 ---4-608:00 -2----7 14:20 1-3-5-7 14:40 --2---16:20 1----622:05 1234567 10:30 1-3-567 13:00 1234--08:20 ----5--15:30 ------7 15:50 1234567 13:05 1234567 16:45 12345-13:05 -2----1345 1234567 09:20 1234567 12:40 --3--67 07:55 1234-67 18:40 1234567 20:55 123---08:30 ---4567 08:40 1234567 07:05 1234567 08:50 1234567 11:40 1-345-7 17:20 1234567 20:50 12345621:20 ------7 21:35 --2---08:20 ----5-7 08:00 -2----13:30 ---4--12:20 ---4--7 18:05 1234567 07:40 --34567 13:25 -234567 10:00 1-----09:10 -2---608:00 ---4--10:15 1234567 08:15 1234567 15:20 1234567 08:15 1234567 16:50 -23-5-15:20 ----5-7 18:00 1234567 14:40

Arr. 10:40 17:05 16:30 09:05 20:05 23:15 23:05 21:50 12:05 15:00 15:30 18:05 10:25 16:45 05:55 09:05 08:55 19:15 17:45 10:35 15:55 17:15 19:20 01:35 12:40 14:55 09:40 16:50 17:10 14:35 18:25 14:35 16:40 12:00 15:10 08:55 19:10 21:35 09:15 09:25 07:50 09:35 13:40 19:05 21:40 22:30 22:30 11:05 10:45 15:25 14:15 21:55 08:45 14:20 10:50 10:00 09:40 11:50 09:50 16:40 09:50 18:25 17:10 19:50 16:35

Destination AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (OA) ATHENS (OA) BANJA LUKA (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) COLOGNE (4U) COLOGNE (4U) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) DUBAI (JU) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (TK) KIEV (VV)LARNAKA (JU) LONDON (JU) LONDON (BA) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (lh) OSLO (DY) PARIS (JU) PARIS (AF) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (OK) ROME (AZ) SARAJEVO (JU) SKOPJE (JU) SKOPJE (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STUTTGART (4U) STUTTGART (4U) TEL AVIV (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (YM) TIVAT (YM) TRIESTE (JU) TRIESTE (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (LX)

To Belgrade Days 1-345-7 ----5----4--1-3-------5-12-4-6--2345-7 -2-4-6-1--------4---2-4--7 -2-4-6------7 -2--5-12---67 -2----123-567 1-3------4-6-2----7 --3-5-7 --2---1----61234567 1-3-567 1234------5-------7 1234567 1234567 12345--2----1234567 1234567 --34--7 1234-67 1234567 123------45-1234567 1234567 1234567 1-345-7 1234567 123456------7 --2-------5-7 -2-------4-----4--7 1234567 --34567 -234567 1------2---6---4--1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1--4--7 ----61234567

Dep. 11:20 17:20 11:25 10:30 20:55 18:00 17:50 06:00 12:55 15:50 10:50 18:30 11:25 17:35 07:35 21:45 22:20 22:15 13:05 19:45 20:00 13:05 12:35 11:30 13:30 08:15 10:30 17:40 18:00 11:05 19:25 11:05 10:05 13:00 09:50 09:30 19:25 06:35 17:40 06:45 08:20 17:40 14:15 14:50 06:20 06:00 06:00 11:55 11:35 11:15 10:05 22:50 09:20 14:55 11:30 07:40 16:05 18:20 13:25 10:55 13:25 19:20 18:00 09:30 12:20

Arr. 13:35 19:35 15:05 11:05 21:30 19:20 19:10 06:50 15:05 19:35 12:50 20:30 13:25 19:45 11:55 23:35 00:10 00:05 14:40 21:20 21:35 14:45 15:30 14:05 17:15 12:00 11:50 19:00 19:20 12:30 20:50 12:30 13:05 15:20 12:20 10:30 20:10 07:20 18:25 07:30 09:05 18:25 16:15 16:30 07:05 07:05 06:50 14:30 14:10 13:00 11:50 00:55 10:25 16:00 12:20 08:30 17:45 19:55 14:35 12:20 14:35 20:45 19:40 11:10 14:00

SU Aeroflot, VV Aerosvit, AF Air France, AZ Alitalia, OS Austrian, BA British Airways, OK Czech Airlines, 4U Germanwings, JU JAT Airways, LH Lufthansa, YM Montenegro Airlines, DY Norwegian Air Shuttle, OA Olympic Airlines, LX Swiss, TK Turkish Airlines. Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. Note: Flight schedule is valid until the end of July. You can learn more at the Belgrade Airport web site: www. beg.aero For more information on JAT flights, please call 0-800-111-528 (toll-free calls from Serbian fixed telephone network), for calls abroad 311 21 23

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Getting around

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January - March 2013

Shopping Concept store Supermarket C-1, Corner of Strahinjića Bana and Višnjića Streets, tel. (+381) 65 380 50 44, office@supermarket.rs, www.supermarket.rs. An out-of-the-ordinary place combining a restaurant, spa center, hair salon and ‘beauty & fashion’ lounge, where you can purchase hard-to-find and curious home accessories, unique pieces of clothing designed by up-and-coming young fashion designers, skin care and other beauty produce, wines....The inside, covering a floor area of 1400m² is reminiscent of an unfinished hangar, as the walls have an unfinished concrete look/texture and there is insulation hanging from the ceiling. The restaurant serves up light Asian, Italian and French dishes and the Chef is Sem Veldheer from the Netherlands. Be sure to try pumpkin risotto with salmon and beurre blanc sauce. Those who like to overindulge in rich desserts will appreciate 'Chocolate Fountain' - candied fruit and 700 gram chocolate dip. The Spa zone offers traditional, aromatherapy and high-tech treatments. The Supermarket prices seem to aim for those who don't think twice about splashing out.4Open 09:00 - 01:00. The Ušće Shopping and Commercial Centre in New Belgrade

Piramida Jurija Gagarina 151. Local shopping centre packed with small boutiques selling clothes, shoes and home accessories. Popular with locals, it offers a casual atmosphere, moderate prices, and proximity to a green market. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9. Spacious foyers and passageways between conference halls feature a range of chic boutiques specialising in clothes and shoes. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Ušće shopping center B -2 , b lok 16, w w w. usceshoppingcenter.com. The biggest shopping centre in the heart of Belgrade. 160 shops, cinema, casino, bowling, wellness centre, 6 cafes and 10 restaurants on 130.000 m2. 4Open 10:00 – 22:00.

You may be labouring under the impression that Belgrade is a shopper’s paradise, having seen the trendy and chic Belgrade girls, but alas, Belgrade is not as strong in the shopping department as Milan or Paris. Belgrade’s main shopping areas are Knez Mihailova, Terazije, Kralja Milana, and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra streets. Most shops are open between 10:00 and 20:00. The main supermarkets in the Old Town are Maxi and Alonso, both located at the corner of Višnjićeva and Gospodar Jevremova streets (C-1). Larger supermarkets can be found in New Belgrade, on Omladinskih Brigada Street, near Airport City (Idea and Rodić) and on Treći Bulevar Street near Holiday Inn (Super Vero), open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. If you are seized by a sudden urge to go shopping for oregano, underwear or a TV set at 2 o’clock in the morning, go crazy at Tempo, a huge supermarket in New Belgrade, near motorway exits for Novi Sad and Zagreb, open 24 hours. There are small shops selling newspapers, cigarettes, chocolate, spirits and fruit juice throughout the city, open 24hrs.

Ambijenta C-2, Nikole Spasića 2, tel. (+381) 11 262 45 61. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Nosorog C-2, Cara Uroša 12, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 94. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Zarić C-2, Vuka Karadžića 9, (+381) 218 53 47. 4Open Daily 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun Closed.

Shopping centres

Bookshops

array of shops, a supermarket, multiplex cinema, bowling alley, a variety of fast-food outlets and cafés. 4Open 10:00 - 22:00. Mercator A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4. Very popular shopping centre housing a self service restaurant, children’s playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post office and a bank open on Sundays. 4Open Daily 09:00 - 22:00. New Millennium C-2 Knez Mihajlova 19-21. Small and cosy, featuring a charming range of boutiques and shoe shops, this shopping centre provides hours of entertainment to anyone who thinks of shopping as a favourite pastime. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.

39. Wonderful little bookshop-cum-tea room filled with books in Serbian and English. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. IPS-Akademija C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 263 65 14. A large selection of books, monographs, dictionaries and comic books in Serbian and English. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. Vulkan C-2, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, tel. (+381) 11 263 90 60, sremska@knjizare-vulkan. rs, www.knjizare-vulkan.rs. Books, monographs and magazines in Serbian and English, a great range of CDs, a gift-shop. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Delta City Jurija Gagarina 16. Delta City offers a wide

Antiques

Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel. (+381) 11 262 58

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Business directory www.inyourpocket.com Markets Teeming with people and colours, green markets offer fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, scrumptious meat and dair y products, pickles, honey, herbs and more. Officially open 06:00 - 19:00, but you will be wise to observe the times below, as farmers selling their own goods are eager to go home earlier. Bajlonijeva Pijaca C-2, Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 72. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00 Blok 44 Jurija Gagarina bb, tel. (+381) 11 215 82 32. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, tel. (+381) 11 245 03 50. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00 Zeleni venac C-2, Jug Bogdanova bb, tel. (+381) 11 262 93 28. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00

Flowers

Teleflora C-2, Svetogorska 11, tel. (+381) 11 303 00 48, office@teleflora.rs, www.teleflora.rs. Flower delivery to 185 countries worldwide. 4Open: 09:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sat Closed.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Adoré C-2, Terazije 15-23, tel. (+381) 11 333 37 30. The finest chocolate treats in the Balkans. An absolute must for chocoholics! Also at Delta City. 100g - 440 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Beoizlog C-2, Knez Mihajlova 6, tel. (+381) 11 263 17 21. Beograde souvenirs: books, T-shirts, calendars, old photos, stationary with Belgrade themes. 4Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:oo.. Singidunum C-2, Terazije 42, tel. (+381) 11 264 31 58. The largest selection of rakija (traditional Serbian brandy), wines, and local delicacies. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Zdravo-Živo C-2, Bulevar JNA 75, tel. (+381) 63 878 59 88. A widearray of items belonging to Serbian folk culture (traditional caps and footwear, embroidered blouses, woollen socks), pipes, traditional kitchen accessories, kilims etc. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. Www.serbiasouvenirs.com. The biggest online souvenir shop with a wide range of original, handmade folkart products and souvenirs from all over Serbia. They offer a wide range of products including books, travel guides, games, clothing, classical souvenirs and more. The website is currently only available in Serbian.

Tobacco & Drinks

Julieta C-2, Đure Jakšića 11, tel. (+381) 11 263 76 90. Cuban cigars, whiskey, dark chocolate, fine wines and champagne. 4Open 09:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun. La Casa del Habano C-3, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. (+381) 11 383 05 33, www.julieta.biz. The place to enjoy Cuban cigars. Classy decor and one of 10 largest walk in humidors in Europe with a comprehensive range of the finest cigars and whiskey. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Royal enoteca B-2, Karađorđeva 3, (+381) 11 262 39 69. Excellent selection of wines. 4Open 16:00 – 24:00, Sun closed. Tvrđava C-2, corner of Cetinjska and Hilandarska. Cigarettes, sweets, juices and spirits. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Wine Bar C-2, Dositejeva 13, tel. (+381) 11 262 62 67. Excellent selection of wines. Taste wines on offer at retail prices. 4Open 10:00 - 00:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Wonderland C-3, Svetog Save 25, tel. (+381) 64 640 22 20. Wines, spirits and a fine assortment of sweets. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun closed. January - March 2013

Business directory Business essentials

Marfin Bank D-2, Dalmatinska 22, tel. (+381) 11

(data for Serbia in 2009) GDP per capita: $10,540 Average wage: €425 (Belgrade), €340 (Serbia) Annual inflation rate: 10.1% The standard VAT rate: 20% The lower VAT rate: 8% Corporate Profit Tax Rate: 10% (lowest in Europe) Personal income tax rate on wages: 12% Other personal income tax rate: 20% Annual Income Tax: 10% (for income exceeding the amount of 3 and 5 times the national average wage for Serbian and non-Serbian citizens respectively) and 15% (for income 8 times above the national average wage for non-Serbian citizens) Rates for mandatory social security contributions: 17.9% Unemployment rate: 13% Serbia has free trade agreements with Russia and the countries of South East Europe (CEFTA).

Kolarčeva 7-10, tel. (+381) 11 330 58 76 National Bank of Greece C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 36 NLB LHB Banka A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165v, tel. (+381) 11 222 51 00 Piraeus Bank C-2, Bulevar umetnosti 2, tel. (+381) 11 260 88 64 ProCredit Bank D-2, Bulevar despota Stefana 68c, tel. (+381) 11 331 30 88 Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Terazije 27, tel. (+381) 11 320 21 00 Societe Generale A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 50a, tel. (+381) 11 301 15 15 Unicredit Bank C-2, Rajićeva 27-29, tel. (+381) 11 320 45 00 Volksbank A-1, Bul. Mihajla Pupina 165g, tel. (+381) 11 201 32 00

Accounting & Auditing

BDO BC Excell C-2, Knez Mihailova 10, tel. (+381)

11 328 13 99

ConsulTeam C-3, Prote Mateje 52, tel. (+381) 11 308 61 80

Deloitte C-2, Terazije 8, tel. (+381) 11 381 21 00 Ernst & Young A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, tel.

(+381) 11 209 57 00 KPMG C-2, Studentski trg 4, tel. (+381) 11 328 28 92 Pricewater house Coopers Omladinskih brigada 88a, tel. (+381) 11 330 21 00 SEECAP C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (+381) 11 363 59 35

Advertising agencies

BGinfo Box D-3, Matice srpske 3a, tel. (+381) 11 414 09 65

Communis Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. (+381) 11 363 67 00 New Moment C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92

Synergy Leo Burnett Danila Lekića 31, tel. (+381)

11 209 02 00

Banks

Alpha Bank C-2, Kralja Milana 11, tel. (+381) 0800

25 02 50

Banca Intesa B-2, Milentija Popovića 7b, tel. (+381) 11 310 88 88

BNP Paribas C-2, (Representative Office), Obilićev venac 22, tel. (+381) 11 328 48 60 Citibank N.A. A-2, (Representative Office), Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 64a/IV, tel. (+381) 11 220 93 00 Commerzbank AG B-2, (Representative Office), Vladimira Popovića 6 (Genex Apartments), tel. (+381) 11 301 85 20 Deutsche Bank C -2, (Representative Of fice), Balkanska 2, tel. (+381) 11 205 50 50 Eurobank EFG C-2, Kolarčeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 333 23 11 Erste Bank C-2, Knez Mihajlova 36, tel. (+381) 11 303 70 26 Findomestic banka C-2, Kosovska 10, tel. (+381) 11 333 17 17 Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. (+381) 11 222 60 00 Komercijalna banka C-3, Svetog Save 14, tel. (+381) 11 308 01 00 Belgrade In Your Pocket

330 63 00

Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group C -2,

Business connections

Belgrade Stock Exchange A-1, Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. (+381) 11 311 72 97, www.belex.rs. Business Registration Agency C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 333 14 00, www.apr.gov.rs Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade C-2, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. (+381) 11 264 13 55, www.kombeg.org.rs Ministry of Economy and Regional Development

C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. (+381) 11 285 50 51, www.merr.gov.rs Ministry of Trade and Services C-3, Nemanjina 2226, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 79 Privatization Agency C-2, Terazije 23, tel. (+381) 11 302 08 00, www.priv.rs

Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry

C-2, Resavska 13-15, tel. (+381) 11 330 09 00, pks. komora.net

SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion Agency C-2, Vlajkovićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 339 85 50

Business facilities

Airport City Omladinskih brigada 88, tel. (+381) 11 209 05 25, www.airportcitybelgrade.com

Getting working papers Internationals planning to work in Serbia are required to obtain a Temporary Residence Permit. To get one, you need to submit an application to the Police Office in the territory of residence. The documentation required for granting this permit depends on the reasons for requesting the permit (employment, education, sport etc.) and typically includes a valid passport, 2 photographs, evidence of means of support (such as bank statement attesting to availability of funds), employment contract, explanatory letter re: the need for employment written by the company, or decision on registration of the company (if you are owner or representative of a company). It normally takes about a week to process the application. Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners), Savska 35 (B-3), tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

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Lifestyle directory Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. (+381) 11 265 55 10, www.sajam.co.rs EXPO XXI - Expocentre A-2, Španskih boraca 74a, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Sava Congress Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 00, www.savacentar.com Ušće Business Centre B-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. (+381) 11 220 02 00

Consulting

CES Mecon Danijelova 12-16, tel. (+381) 11 309 08 00, www.cesmecon.com Dekleva & Partners Ltd. C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. (+381) 11 303 36 49, www.dekleva1.com. All services are offered in English, Russian, German, Greek and Serbian languages. EKI Investment C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) 11 361 31 64, www.eki-investment.com

Executive search/Recruitment

HD European Consulting Group C-2, Francuska 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 63 68, www.hd-ecg.com

Foreign representations

American Chamber of Commerce C-2, Vlajkovićeva 30, tel. (+381) 11 334 59 61, www.amcham.rs

Council of Europe D-3, Sinđelićeva 9, tel. (+381) 11 308 84 11

www.inyourpocket.com Lawyers

Law Office C-2, Takovska 13, (+381) 11 322 71 33,

(063)38 31 16, www.businesslawserbia.com. Lawyers and legal consultants provide a full range of corporate, company, legal services, serving both local and multinational companies, especially: registration, privatization, mergers & acquisitions, foreign investments, real-estate, litigations, banking, finance & tax advisory. Tomić-Stević-Dulić C-2, Carice Milice 3/II, tel. (+381) 11 328 52 27. Their practice areas include corporate law, commercial law, foreign investment, mergers and acquisitions, franchising, tax law, administrative law, intellectual property, unfair competition, privatization, insolvency, corporate restructuring, employment law, pension funds, real estate, construction litigation.

Real estate

ApartmentsApart belgrade@bookaa.net, www. apartmentsapart.com BeoRent tel. (+381) 65 822 37 51, www.beorent.com Eurodiplomatic D-3, Dravska 18, tel. (+381) 11 308 68 78 Mentor D-3, Mileševska 2, tel. (+381) 11 308 90 80, www.mentorrent.rs

European Union Information Centre C-2, Dom

Translators

The Delegation of the European Union to the Republic of Serbia, Avenija 19a, Vladimira Popovića

4, tel. (+381) 11 630 06 88, www.btc.rs, office@btc.rs Center Lomonosov C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. (+381) 11 334 31 84. www.centarlomonosov.com, contact@ centarlomonosov.com

omladine, Dečanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 22, www.euinfo.rs Foreign Investors Council C-2, Svetogorska 37, tel. (+381) 11 303 55 50, www.fic.org.rs 40/V, tel. +381 (11) 308 32 00, www.europa.rs

Association of Technical and Scientific Translators of Serbia D-3, Kičevska 9, tel. (+381) 11 244 27 29 Belgrade Translation Center C-1, Đorđa Stanojevića

Belgrade by night offers some fantastic sights

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

January - March 2013

Lifestyle directory Dry cleaners

Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4, tel. (+381) 11 313 02 51

Embassies and Consulates

Albania Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25a, tel. (+381) 11 306 66 42

Algeria Maglajska 26/b, tel. (+381) 11 367 12 11 Argentina C-2, Knez Mihailova 24, tel. (+381) 11

262 25 41

Australia B-2, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, tel. (+381) 11 303 19 56 Austria B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. (+381) 11 333 65 00 Belarus C-3, Deligradska 13, tel. (+381) 11 361 69 38 Belgium C-2, Krunska 18, tel. (+381) 11 323 00 18 Bosnia and Herzegovina C-3, Krunska 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 11 70 Brazil C-2, Krunska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 97 81 Bulgaria C-3, Birčaninova 26, tel. (+381) 11 361 39 80 Canada C-3, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. (+381) 11 306 30 00 Czech Republic C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. (+381) 11 323 01 33 China Augusta Cesarca 2v, tel. (+381) 11 369 50 57 Croatia C-3, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 35 Cuba Vukovarska 3, tel. (+381) 11 369 24 41 Cyprus Diplomatska kolonija 9, tel. (+381) 11 367 27 25 Denmark Neznanog Junaka 9a, tel. (+381) 11 367 95 00 Ecuador C-3, Graničarska 8/III, tel. (+381) 11 344 01 35 Egypt Andre Nikolića 12, tel. (+381) 11 265 05 85 Finland C-3, Birčaninova 29, tel. (+381) 11 306 54 00 France B-2, Pariska 11, tel. (+381) 11 302 35 00 Germany C-3, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. (+381) 11 306 43 00 Greece C-2, Francuska 33, tel. (+381) 11 322 65 23 Great Britain C-3, Resavska 46, tel. (+381) 11 264 50 55 Holland C-2, Simina 29, tel. 202 39 00 Hungary C-3, Krunska 72, tel. (+381) 11 244 04 72 India Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel. (+381) 11 266 41 27 Iran Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. (+381) 11 367 43 60 Italia C-3, Birčaninova 11, tel. (+381) 11 306 61 00 Israel Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. (+381) 11 364 35 00 Japan B-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. (+381) 11 301 28 00 Macedonia C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. (+381) 11 328 49 24 Mexico Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. (+381) 11 367 41 70 Monte negro Užička 1, tel. (+381) 11 266 23 00 Norway Užička 43, tel. (+381) 11 367 04 04 Poland C-2, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. (+381) 11 206 53 01 Portugal Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 28 95 Romania C-3, Užiča 10, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 72 Russia C-3, Deligradska 32, Katićeva 8-10, tel. (+381) 11 361 13 23 Slovakia A-2, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. (+381) 11 222 38 00 Slovenia C-1, Pariska 15, tel. (+381) 11 303 84 77 Spain C-3, Prote Mateje 45, tel. (+381) 11 344 02 31 Sweden Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. (+381) 11 206 92 00 Switzerland C-3, Birčaninova 27, tel. (+381) 11 306 58 20 Tunisia B-3, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. (+381) 11 369 19 61 Turkey C-2, Krunska 1, tel. (+381) 11 333 24 00 USA C-3, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. (+381) 11 361 93 44 Vatican C-3, Svetog Save 24, tel. (+381) 11 308 53 56

Hairdressers

Šobota C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 62 95 Belgrade In Your Pocket

Children The most popular place for children in Belgrade is the Zoo, nestled against the Belgrade fortress (C-1). The Zoo, founded in 1936, is also called ‘Good Hope Garden’. Its stars include the only white buffalo in Europe, a couple of white lions and a white wallaby. Children adore the Baby Zoo, home to the cubs born in the zoo.Admission is 350 din for adults and 250 din for children aged 3-15.4Open 08:00 - 20:00, in winter 08:00 - 17:00

Ballet classes

Orhestra Ballet Studio D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, tel. (+381) 11 240 34 43

Best ice cream in town

Pelivan C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, tel. (+381) 11 323 16 79

Children’s playrooms

Extreme Kids D-2, Venizelosova 21, tel. (+381) 11 323 02 02

Horse riding

Aleksa Dundić Riding Club Belgrade Hippodrome, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. (+381) 11 354 15 84

International schools

Anglo-American School Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 77

Britannica International School Užička 21a, tel. (+381) 11 367 15 57

Ecole Francaise de Belgrade B-3, Kablarska 35,

tel. (+381) 11 369 17 62

Deutsche Schule Belgrad B-3, Sanje Živanović

10, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 35

International Nursery School Nake Spasić 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 71 30

International School of Belgrade Temišvarska

19, tel. (+381) 11 206 99 99

Kindergartens

Sunašce C-2, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, tel. (+381) 11 761 70 13. Day care for pre-school children.

Marry Poppins C-3, Kursulina 37, tel. (+381) 11 243 30 59. Day care for school-age children.

Real Aikido

Real Aikido World Centre D-3, Slavujev venac 1,

tel. (+381) 11 308 91 99

Swimming school for children

City Centre for Physical Education C-3, Deligrad-

ska 27, tel. (+381) 11 265 87 47

Key cuts

Elezović D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, tel.

(+381) 11 245 27 25. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (+381) 64 641 43 65

Launderettes

Bianca Dušana Vukasovića 82, tel. (+381) 65 888 24 24

Libraries

City of Belgrade Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 00, www.bgb.org.rs

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Lifestyle directory National Library of Serbia C-3, Skerlićeva 1, tel. (+381) 11 245 12 42, www.nb.rs Svetozar Marković University Library D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. (+381) 11 337 05 13, www. unilib.bg.ac.rs

Money transfer

Western Union C-2, Kosovska 1, tel. (+381) 11 330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Belgrade, in EUR only.

Office Furniture

Eurosalon B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 12, tel. (+381) 11 206 75 00

Office1Superstore Milošev kladenac 14b, tel. (+381)

11 346 06 05

Opticians

Diopta D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 104, tel. (+381) 11 243 65 85

La Gatta C-2, Cara Lazara 15, tel. (+381) 11 263 10 34

Pets

Pet Centar A-2, Bulevar Milutina Milankovića 1v (Treći bulevar), tel. (+381) 11 212 33 05, www.pet-centar.rs.

Spa & Beauty Salons

Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center Milentija Popovica 5 , tel.(+381) 11 301 11 71, www.belgrade. regency.hyatt.com. massage, body treatments, facials, spa, swimming pool, manicure, pedicure, sauna, whirlpool, waxing Just Violet C-2, Đure Jakšića 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 53 48, (+381) 64 966 25 51. Excellent location, just a few meters from the fountain in Knez Mihailova street. Doctor specialist in radiovawe surgery works on ELLMAN equipment. Also available: beauty treatments, hairdresser, massage, solarium, waxing. Olimas C-1, Strahinjića Bana 64/3, tel. (+381) 11 218 07 92, www.massage.rs. Massage, body treatments. Jai Thai B-3, Vase Pelagića 48, tel. (+381) 11 369 91 93, www.jai-thai.net. Thai massage, body treatments, herbal baths, restaurant. Five elements Spa&Beauty C-1, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11 3534 330, www.fiveelementsspa.rs Fullservice spa and state-of-the-art skin care facility.

Health Clinics & Hospitals

Ambulance (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Bulevar Franše D’Eperea 5, tel. 94 Emergency Centre (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Pasterova 2, tel: (+381) 11 361 84 44

Medical institutions on duty

Bežanijska Kosa General Hospital Bežanijska Kosa bb, tel. (+381) 11 301 07 77

Clinical Centre of Serbia C-3, Pasterova 2, tel.

tel (+381) 11 361 77 77

Dr Dragiša Mišović General Hospital Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. (+381) 11 363 07 00 Military Medical Academy Crnotravska 17, tel. (+381) 11 266 11 22 Zvezdara General Hospital Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. (+381) 11 380 69 69

Private practices

Anlave CD Vase Pelagića 68, tel. (+381) 11 317 59 29, www.anlaveclinic.rs Bel Medic General Hospital Koste Jovanovica 87, tel. (+381) 11 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com Medikom Polyclinic C-3 Branicevska 12a, tel. (+381) 11 344 37 81

Dentists (on duty 24 hours)

Dr.Toma Jovanović Kneza Sime Markovića 9, tel. (+381) 334 82 00. On duty 24 hours.

Stari Grad Obilićev Venac 30, tel. (+381) 11 263

52 36

Vračar Kneginje Zorke 15, tel. (+381) 11 244 14 13

Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)

Bogdan Vujošević A-1, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. (+381) 11260 18 87 Prvi Maj C-2, Kralja Milana 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 13 49 Sveti Sava C-2, Nemanjina 2, tel. (+381) 11 664 31 70

Avoid the cold and escape to one of the cities many modern shopping centres for the day

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January - March 2013

sports

You can still watch some beautiful sunsets over along the river in winter

Bowling

First bowling Gradski Park u Zemunu, tel. (+381)

11 377 16 12. 7 lanes, café. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 00:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Colosseum Dobanovačka 56 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 54 03. 10 lanes, billiards, Sony PlayStation consoles, electronic darts, café, restaurant. 4Open 11:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Kolosej Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 312 99 44. 14 lanes, billiards, laser tag arena, video arcades, café. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Cycling

There are no bicycle paths in the Old Town, but you can enjoy a ride on a bicycle route along the river, from Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija. There are bicycle services in Dorćol, near Belgrade Fair, and at Ada Ciganlija. Good routes for riding a bike include those along the Sava on the New Belgrade side of the river, along Zemun Quay and at Ada Ciganlija. Riding a bike in Košutnjak and Topčider areas is not recommended because of steep hills and narrow traffic lines used by cars.

iBikeBelgrade tel. (+381) 66 900 83 86, Operates

from 1 May to 1 October. Founded by a resident expat from bike-crazy Holland, iBikeBelgrade is easily our favourite city tour in the Serbian capital. The four-hour cycling tours include Belgrade's major sights as well as a ton of lesser seen attractions, such as the Federal Palace, Zemun and Genex Towers. Tours start every day at 14:00 with participants meeting at the end of Kneza Mihaila Street opposite the entrance to Kalemegdan. Private, group and tailor-made tours can be arranged upon request. €15 per person, includes use of bike, an English-speaking guide and (of course) one drink.

Golf

Golf Klub Beograd A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. (+381) 11 305 68 37, www.golfclub.co.rs. A nine-hole golf course, lessons and equipment hire available, and café to. 4Open 07:00 - 22:00

Karting

Autokomerc Karting Centar 1. Ulica 84c, tel. (+381) 11 316 90 29, www.kart.rs. An outdoor circuit alongside the motorway close to the airport. Its 803m long and 8m wide track with 18 curves boasts a CIK FIA C circuit licence. Open from March to October, every day except Monday. The circuit is floodlit and night karting is available. The Center offers a kart school, and there is also a track for children aged 5 to 8.4Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Paintball

Paintball Club Arena No 1 tel. (+381) 11 063 779 67 96. Outdoor and indoor facilities. One hour of paintball + equipment is 10€. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Shooting range

Sportski Centar Kovilovo Zrenjaninski put 170 (12km from the city centre), tel. 207 52 00. First-class shooting ranges for Skeet, Trap and Double Trap events and one sporting compact shooting range specially designed for huntsmen. Shooting lessons, dog boxes, pool, sauna, restaurant.

Squash Courts

Squashland Pionirski grad in Košutnjak, tel. (+381) 11 305 58 07. Two courts, café. Price per session (45 mins): 800 dinars before 15h, 1.300 dinars after 15h and on weekends. Racket hire: 350 dinars. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00.

Tennis Courts

11. April near university halls of residence in New Belgrade, tel. (+381) 11 267 29 39. Three outdoor red-clay courts and one indoor court situated in an empty swimming pool (the place of Ana Ivanović’s early training). Gemax Banjički venac 28b, tel. (+381) 11 306 18 13. Exclusive tennis club, 4 indoor and 4 outdoor courts, fitness centre, swimming pool, sauna, sports shop, restaurant. For members and their guests only. Sa&Ni D-2, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 276 68 47. Four redclay courts, school of tennis, café.

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Index ? 46 Absinthe 32 Akademija 42 Amarone Wine Bar 41 Amsterdam 40 ArkaBarka 29 AUR-Klub svetskih putnika 41 Balkan 21 Balkan Hotel Garni 22 Balzac 33 Baryakli Mosque 47 Beli Grad 29 Belgrade Fortress 45 Best Western M 22 Best Western Šumadija 22 Bevanda 37 Bg City hotel 25 Bistro Pastis 40 Bitef Art café 42 Bizzare 41 Blaywatch 42 Bristol 26 Brodić 42 Burito bar 37 Byblos 37 Cantina de Frida 39 Casa Nova 36 Cathedral Church 47 Centar 29 Central Bus Station 52 Central Railway Station 51 Central Station 29 Chilton 29 City Code 27 Continental 22 Cricket 29 Crossroad 30 Cruise 41 Crystal 21 Čobanov odmor 34 Čubura 38 Dačo 38 Delta City 55 Diva 32 Dišina koliba 33 Elegance 25 Emergency Centre 60 Ethnographic Museum 48 Excelsior 22 Evropa 22 Favela 40 Forever 27 Franš 33 Galerija 40 Grand Casino 42 Grand pleasure 40 Guli 37 Havana 43 Holiday Inn 23 Hyatt Regency 21 Ikki Sushi Bar 36 In 23 Ipanema 36 Jasmin Hostel 30 Jewish Cemetery 46 Jewish Historical Museum 46 Jevrem 38 Jevremovac Botanic Garden 47 Kalemegdanska terasa 33 Kalenić Pijaca 45 Kandahar 40 Kasina 25 Košutnjak 47 Lav 26 Le Petit Piaf 26

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Life Design 23 Lime cafe 40 Little Bay 34 Madera 34 Maharaja 33 Majestic 23 Majik 33 Mama’s Biscuit House 40 Manga 31 Manjež 38 McDonald’s 34 Mercator 55 Mercedes bar 42 Metropolitan grill 34 Milagro 39 Millennium Tower 46 Military Museum 49 Mladost 44 Moskva 23 Mr. President 24 Museum of Automobiles 49 Museum of Aviation 49 Museum of Yugoslav History 48 Mythologia 34 N 27 Nacos 37 New Cemetery 47 Nikola Tesla Airport 52 Nikola Tesla Museum 49 Opera 34 Orašac 26 Ottimo 36 Palace 24 Park 26 Paša 37 Pekara Toma 34 Peking 32 Pietro dell Oro 36 Plastic 44 Plato 42 Pizza Hut 37 Pomodoro 37 Povetarac 44 Pop Art Hotel 31 Prag 27 President 21 Proleće 38 Rakia bar 42 Reka 44 Rex 26 Rezime Residence 28 Royal 27 Royal compound 46 Ruski car 35 Salaš 38 Sava Centre 55 Skadarlija 46 Skala 26 Slavija Lux 24 Slodes 26 Srbija 26 Srpska kafana 38 St. Mark’s Church 46 St. Petka’s Chapel 46 St. Sava Temple 47 Stara Carinarnica 39 Stara Hercegovina 39 Supermarket 35 Synagogue 46 Sweet caffe 40 Tabor 39 Taš 27 Tašmajdanski park 48 The Three Carrots 42 The Tube 44

Three Black Cats 31 Topčider Park 48 Townhouse 27 24 Townhouse 50 29 Tramvaj 44 Travelling Actor 28 Tribeca 35 Trim 27 Tulip Inn 25 Villa Belvedere 28 Villa Forest 28 Villa Jelena 21 Villa Kalemegdan 28 Vila Manjež 28 Vila Terazije 28 Villa Zemun 29 Yachting Club Kej 31 Yugoslav Film Archive 49 Zaplet 33 Zlatnik 21 Zira 25 Zorba 33 Žabar 35 Whatever@the corner 35

Street register 27. marta D-2 Admirala Geprata C-2 Akademski plato C-2 Balkanska C-2 Beogradska C-2 Birčaninova C-3 Brodarska B-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića A-2 Bulevar Despota Stefana C-2 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra C-2 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina A-1 Bulevar Nikole Tesle A-1 Bulevar Oslobođenja C-3 Bulevar umetnosti A-1 Bulevar vojvode Mišića B-3 Bulevar Zorana Đinđića A-2 Cara Dušana C-1 Cara Lazara C-2 Cara Uroša C-1 Carice Milice C-2 Carigradska D-2 Cetinjska C-2 Cvijićeva D-2 Čarli Čaplina D-2 Čika Ljubina C-2 Dalmatinska D-2 Dečanska C-2 Deligradska C-3 Dobračina C-2 Dositejeva C-2 Dragoslava Jovanovića C-2 Džordža Vašingtona C-2 Đure Daničića C-2 Đušina D-2 Goce Delčeva A-1 Gospodar Jevremova C-1 Gospodar Jovanova C-1 Hilandarska C-2 Jurija Gagarina A-3 Kalenićeva D-3 Karađorđeva C-2 Katanićeva C-3 Kej oslobođenja A-1 Knez Mihailova C-2 Kneza Miloša C-3 Kneza Sime Markovića B-2

Kneginje Zorke C-3 Kolarčeva C-2 Kosančićev venac B-2 Kosovska C-2 Kralja Milana C-3 Kralja Milutina C-3 Kraljice Natalije C-2 Kraljice Marije D-2 Kralja Petra I C-1 Krunska C-2 Mačvanska C-3 Majke Jevrosime C-2 Makedonska C-2 Maksima Gorkog D-3 Maršala Birjuzova C-2 Masarikova C-2 Mije Kovačevića D-2 Milentija Popovića A-2 Mileševska D-3 Milovana Milovanovića C-2 Milutina Bojića C-2 Nebojšina C-3 Nemanjina C-3 Nikole Spasića C-2 Nušićeva C-2 Obilićev venac C-2 Omladinskih brigada A-1 Palmira Toljatija A-1 Palmotićeva C-2 Pariska C-1 Požarevačka D-3 Prizrenska C-2 Proleterske Solidarnosti A-2 Rajićeva C-2 Resavska C-3 Ruzveltova D-2 Sarajevska C-3 Savska B-3 Savski trg C-3 Skadarska C-2 Skerlićeva C-3 Skver Mire Trailović C-2 Slavujev venac D-2 Strahinjića Bana C-1 Studentski trg C-2 Svetog Save C-3 Svetogorska C-2 Svetozara Markovića C-3 Svetozara Radića B-2 Šantićeva C-2 Španskih boraca A-2 Tadeuša Košćuška C-1 Takovska C-2 Terazije C-2 Topličin venac C-2 Trg Nikole Pašića C-2 Trg Republike C-2 Trg Slavija C-3 Trnska D-3 Ušće B-2 Uzun Mirkova C-1 Vasina (Vase Čarapića) C-2 Venizelosova D-2 Višnjićeva C-1 Vladimira Popovića B-2 Vlajkovićeva C-2 Vojvode Šupljikca D-3 Vuka Karadžića C-2 Zeleni venac C-2 Zmaj Jovina C-2 Železnička B-2

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Best Western Ĺ umadija

Lifestyle directory Belgrade

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Index Belgrade

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Index Serbia

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