baked the ultimate food high fall 2017 | issue 9
baked FALL 2017 Tess Berger
editor-in-chief
Chazz Inniss
Stefani Clark
Emma Comtois
Evan Jenkins
executive editor creative director
Editorial
senior editors Megan Falk, Michaela
Marano, Julianna Whiteway asst. editors Tess Greenberg, Meredith
Lewis, Anna Lightman copy editors Nina Moll, James Pezzullo fact checkers Karley Warden, Michael Yacubov
managing editor photo director
Design
designers Laura Angle, Dina Ben-Nissan,
Ivor Guest, Lucy Naland, Rori Sachs illustrators Joleyne Herrera, Isabel Zuluaga Mesa
Photo
photographers Kelli Collins, Eliza Hsu Chen,
Erica Mack, Katie Tsai, Cassie Zhang
Food
food director AdriAna Yorke asst. food editors Sarah Feustle, Charlie
Orenstein
Digital
digital editor Chloe Citron
asst. digital editor Alyson Weber social media director Matthew Schiff social media editors Gillian Pelkonen,
Ashley Tucker
Baked is Syracuse University’s student-run food magazine. Founded in 2011, Baked aims to widen food options for SU students by introducing kitchen amateurs to cooking, highlighting local businesses and eateries, and connecting readers to the greater Syracuse food community. Baked publishes one issue each semester. bakedmagazine.com
multimedia director Molly Matalon
@bakedmagazine
video producers Marc Geandreau, Josie Hannum,
@bakedmagazine
Aidan Kim, Tanya Motwani, Maxine Williams
Business & Communications
pr director Mary Roselle
pr associates Monica Nowicki, Nicole Pollak,
Mindy Rosenthal, Rae Sanchez faculty advisor Melissa Chessher
facebook.com/bakedmagazine
table of contents baked 101 06
Hot & Smothered "That's hot." - Paris Hilton
08
Essential Oils The Holy Trinity of oils.
10
Don't Miss a Beet! It's time to turn the beet around.
features 14
A Different Kind of Season Apples for fall? Groundbreaking. How about chiles?
16
The Ciao Down Benvenuto a Syracuse, Fabio.
18
12
From Bamyan Valley to Burnet Avenue
Veg or not, we have someone we think you should "meat."
20
"Meat" the Replacements
Afghan eats in Syracuse streets.
Penne for Pennies
recipages 30
Leftover, but Not Forgotten No leftovers left behind.
40
Soups for the Soul Ladle out these souper bowls.
one more bite 46
Earbuds & Tastebuds Turn edible to audible.
48
Dish-tory: Tamales History + chisme = a true family bonding experience.
50
Crumbled & Cured This quiz isn't easy cheesy.
52
Eat. Drink. Malt. Give Back.
It's dinner time, but for a cause.
More than just Fruity Pebble French toast.
22
54
Four students, four distinct dishes.
Bottoms up, spirits up!
Taste of Home
Spirited Shakes
letter from the editor
A
s an aspiring food journalist, not everyone takes me seriously. “Why don’t you want to cover more serious issues?” they ask. “Why should I care about Guy Fieri’s feelings towards his signature flaming bowling shirt?” (he hates it, by the way). Well, at this point in my career, I’d rather devour a couple plates of food and write about it than attempt to put our political climate into words. I respect the hard-hitting journalists out there, but you can find this hedonist hanging at the hottest new restaurants and wine and cheese festivals for now. But food journalism has the potential to go beyond the latest food mashups or what Kim Kardashian eats for breakfast; it can be just as meaningful as politics. Food is ingrained in our history, our culture and our communities — as society changes, so does what we eat. It would be careless to pretend that food operates in a vacuum. This issue really delves into the intersection of food and society, a relationship I’m deeply passionate about — I’m so drawn to food writing because it provides readers with a new lens with which to view our world. Whether that’s learning about how Fabio’s Antica Cucina transports your taste buds to a coastal Italian village (pg. 16) or getting a quick MexicanAmerican history lesson by tucking into a tamale (pg. 48), I guarantee you’ll walk away from this issue craving not just a hearty meal, but a stacked up plate of knowledge. But don’t fret: we’ve got some fun tidbits for you too, like bougie-fying those blah Thanksgiving leftovers (pg. 32) and booze-ifying festive milkshakes (pg. 54). So grab a plate, tuck in your napkin and dive fork first into this issue. Scrumptiously,
Tess Berger
baked 101
see page 10 for everything you need to know about beets
HOT & SMOTHERED
If you can take the heat, keep these five flamin’ hot sauces in the kitchen. Story by Sarah DiMarco | Photos by Erica Mack
As the the temperature drops, it’s time to turn up the heat in your kitchen. But don’t reach for the thermostat — this time, grab one of these hot sauces to spice up your meals in totally different ways.
Valentina Salsa Picante
Sometimes all a dish needs is a quintessential hot sauce kick, and Valentina delivers just that. Smoother than many other Mexican hot sauces, Valentina is Mexico’s number one hot sauce for a reason — it's not too spicy, but it’s got all the flavors a hot sauce needs. Drizzle over pulled chicken tacos or mix with tomato juice for a classic bloody mary.
Huy Fong Chili Garlic Sauce
Lovers of Sriracha, this is another chili sauce that you need to add to your arsenal. The full-bodied garlic flavor combined with fresh chili pepper adds just enough heat without overpowering any dish. This Vietnamese hot sauce is a bit thick, but after one taste, you’ll want to spoon it on all your meals. Add a bit of this chili sauce to your marinades, or even throw it on your avocado toast. 6 | baked
Tabasco Green Pepper Sauce
Tabasco is a staple in any hot sauce lover’s collection, but the green pepper variety is an unsung hero. Milder than Tabasco’s other sauces, this one gets its color and kick from jalapeños with a slight vinegary tang. This hot sauce adds just the right amount of heat — try drizzling it on your eggs in the a.m.
Harissa
Harissa is an essential chile paste found in North African cooking. The mixture of red chiles, warm spices and lemon juice creates a fragrant, smoky profile that elevates any dish. This pungent paste can be found in the international food aisle at your local grocery store. Smear on a slice of pizza, or mix with some hummus for an unexpected twist.
Pickapeppa Sauce
This Jamaican condiment uniquely marries fruity flavors with warm spices, surprising your taste buds in the best way. Pickapeppa Sauce gets its sweet and tangy flair from mangoes and cane vinegar, and unlike most hot sauces, it hangs out in oak barrels for a year, soaking up subtle oaky notes. This sauce is perfect for jerk chicken, but try adding to soup for a sweet kick. fall 2017 | 7
Essential Oils Refine your cooking skills and study up on the major differences in this oil trifecta.
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Story by Deniz Sahinturk Photos by Erica Mack
You may think you only need one oil in your life, but each has its own purpose. So ditch that basic bottle of vegetable oil and check out these three cooking oils that are guaranteed to make your stovetop skills sizzle.
Avocado Oil Avocado oil may be the new kid in the oil lineup, but it’s truly a triple threat: it’s nutritional, has a rich, buttery flavor and it holds a high smoke point at 520 F, making it a great option for high-temperature cooking. Keep its nutty flavor in mind when deep frying — if you don’t want your dish to soak up any notes of avocado, stick with something neutral like peanut oil. For a healthy late-night snack, drizzle over some plain popcorn with a dash of salt and freshly chopped herbs.
Coconut Oil You may know coconut oil as a miracle beauty product, but it’s also a savior in the kitchen. You could go for the neutral-tasting refined coconut oil, but unrefined has a more tropical taste that will transport your tongue to the Caribbean. Because it’s solid at room temp, it makes a great substitute for butter in cookies, cakes and other baked goods. It’s also great for sautéing vegetables and chicken, lending an unexpected toasted flavor.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil The most versatile of oils, EVOO can be used in nearly every bowl, pot and pan in your kitchen. Because it has a more pronounced flavor than canola oil, it’s a tasty base for light vinaigrettes, or simply streamed into a saucer and plated alongside fresh focaccia bread. A staple in the Mediterranean diet, olive oil is heart-healthy and packed with antioxidants. Just keep EVOO away from the deep fryer: because of its low smoke point, the fats will break down, resulting in a burnt and bitter mess.
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DON'T MISS A BEET!
Story by Stefani Clark | Photos by Eliza Hsu Chen
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This superfood can be super delicious too if you give it a chance.
U
sually found sliced in cans or stuffed between fresh veggies at the salad bar, beets are a vastly underrated option in the produce section. The neglected veg has gotten a bad rap for its earthy flavor and sometimes gritty texture, but it’s time to dig deep and dig into all that beets have to offer. To beet deniers, “earthy” is equivalent to tasting like dirt. Eating them raw or straight out of the can doesn’t do the vegetable justice. When prepared with care, beets can be smoky, sweet, creamy or crisp. Cultivating a menu of the endless amounts of flavors beets can take on, considering the beauty of the vegetable itself and realizing the immense health benefits they offer will prove that beets deserve to be a trend. Preparing beets the way you do your favorite vegetables – roasted, pickled, fried, sautéed – is a safe way to try out the vegetable. Being in control of prep, seasoning and cooking lessens the intimidation of eating beets. According to Food52, Tom Colicchio, five-time winner of the James Beard Foundation Award and judge on the hit show, Top Chef, knows the best way to eat beets. Colicchio recommends roasting them in a foil packet with Greek yogurt, lemon juice and zest, then serving them on a bed of arugula. He tops the beets with a mustard vinaigrette and cheese. Versatility in the vegetable is another aspect to explore. Although they’re typically found in salads, beets can be used for tarts, pizza, hummus, sorbet, juices and so much more. The slightly ambiguous flavor of beets makes them flexible. CoreLife Eatery in Syracuse sells beet lemonade, a sweet bright purple refreshment that emphasizes the sugary potential of the vegetable. While adding one vegetable doesn’t automatically make a plate healthy, including beets in your diet can be extremely beneficial. Beets are low-calorie and high in essential vitamins like potassium, iron, magnesium and B12. With high levels of vitamin
C, they’re also helpful in strengthening the immune system against those winter colds. They have about nine grams of sugar per every cup according to the USDA. The root veg has also been proven to enhance athletic performance, which is why beet powder exists as an alternative to protein powder or pre-workout supplements. Red Eye Beet Salad from the Stoop Kitchen
Though it’s definitely important, taste isn’t all that matters when it comes to cuisine. The bright, varying colors of beets are another appealing attribute of the vegetable. Those endless streams of colorful food pictures gracing magazine covers and social media feeds are easily replicable at home. Beets are sometimes added to dishes just for their intense pigment. Deep ruby red, bright golden yellow and candy-striped beets aren’t specific to any dish – any color works to add a new dimension to a meal. The negative connotation associated with beets is largely undeserved. Misconceptions haven’t completely tarnished the beet’s reputation, and as more chefs and Instagrammers incorporate them into recipes, they are beginning to be appreciated by the masses. With all beets have to offer, they might become as popular as then-hated now-celebrated vegetables like Brussels sprouts. fall 2017 | 11
"MEAT" THE REPLACEMENTS All fed up with plain-vanilla tofu? There are soy many out-there alternatives to satisfy vegs and non-vegs alike. Story by Sarah Slavin | Illustrations by Joleyne Herrera
Seitan This wheat gluten-based “meat” should not go unnoticed. Unlike many meat substitutes, seitan actually mimics the taste and feel of meat. It can be transformed into “chicken” wings, Philly cheese “steaks,” kebabs and so much more. It’s extremely easy to cook with, and there’s no need to absorb water like tofu — just sauté it right from the package. Experiment with seitan ribs using your favorite rub, marinade or sauce.
Tempeh When most people think of soy-based products, tofu usually comes to mind — but it’s time to branch out and test out some tempeh. Because it’s less processed than tofu, it has a higher bite to protein ratio. Tempeh has a strong, sharp flavor and a unique, crunchy texture. Known for being super versatile, it can be stuffed into tacos, transformed into “bacon” or tossed into a stir fry. It’s commonly thrown into Indian curry, but you can really show off your kitchen creativity with this funky meat replacer.
Jackfruit The most unexpected of the three, jackfruit may not be protein-packed, but it’s definitely a different take on your typical meat stand-in. It’s a tropical fruit that, because of its shredded texture, can be used to reinvent favorites such as tuna sandwiches and crab cakes. If you’re going to buy it canned, make sure it’s in water or brine, not syrup. A popular meat substitute in pulled pork, it’s best eaten and prepared when unripe. 12 | baked
flip to page 16 to see what this wheel of cheese can do
features
A DIFFERENT KIND OF
SEASON A New Mexico native remembers the taste of a season back home.
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Story by Nathan Abrams & Tess Berger Illustrations by Emma Comtois
he flavors and images of a New York fall recall rows of pumpkin patches, gallons of apple cider and hillsides painted in vibrant hues of crimson and gold. But across the country in New Mexico, fall means one thing: roasted chiles. SU student Kacey Chopito says it best: “Your apple cider is my green chile.” Chopito, a senior history major, is from Zuni Pueblo, NM, the reservation on which the Zuni Pueblo people now reside. He remembers autumns growing up — warm days and crisp evenings comparable to those of Syracuse. To prepare for a chilly winter, Chopito and a handful of cousins would venture out to gather up firewood for their wood stoves. The incentive to get them through a tiresome day of chainsawing and chopping? A cozy home-cooked meal from Grandma, brimming with New Mexico chiles.
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“I always remember eating hot posole or green chile stew after wood hauling,” Chopito says. Posole is a hearty hominy (processed corn) and pork-based soup that gets its New Mexico kick from roasted red chiles, while Grandma’s stew simmers green chiles with meat, onions, garlic and jalapeño. Pretty simple in Chopito’s words, but intensely gratifying. “With some tortillas, it is one of the best foods on the planet,” he says. Chile roasting season runs from September through October, following harvest in late summer. At roasting time, it becomes a statewide occupation: roasted chile vendors spring up everywhere, selling 20-pound bags, locals and visitors congregate at the Hatch Valley Chile Festival, and chefs brainstorm ways to creatively repurpose the traditional ingredient. “Everyone in New Mexico wants roasted chiles,” Chopito says. Chiles are undeniably a unifying force, but there is one dividing question: red or green? “Those are the two types that you will find in every New Mexico restaurant,” Chopito says. “Personally, I’m a huge fan of red chile. In some sense, this is the minority, since most people love green chile.” The topic is so widely debated that “Red or Green?” is the official state question of New Mexico. Though some New Mexicans are Team Green and others are Team Red, the two “varieties” can actually come from the same species. Compared to other peppers, New Mex-
“I always remember eating hot posole or green chile stew after wood hauling.”
ico chiles are a bit earthier because they are grown in incredibly fertile soil, and they can be as mild as a poblano or as hot as a jalapeño. As the green peppers ripen, they take on a vivid red color and sweeter, more mellow notes. Hatch chiles from the Hatch Valley are considered the gold standard of New Mexico chiles, but Chopito’s family also eats pueblo chiles from Zia and Acoma. Because their different colors mean different flavor profiles, green and red chiles generally aren’t used in the same recipes. “Most of the time, green chile is the one that is roasted,” Chopito says. After the roasting process, green chiles are kept fresh, canned or packed up in Ziploc bags and stashed in the freezer to use throughout the winter. Like Chopito’s grandmother does, toss them in a stew, or make green chile sauce to drizzle over scrambled eggs and chicken enchiladas. On the other hand, red chiles are often threaded into ristras, which are chiles strung together like a garland and hung to dry. This prepares chiles for powders and sauces, but their fun appearance has also made them a popular decorative item. Like their green counterpart, red chiles are popularly made into a zesty sauce; they just have to be rehydrated in boiling water first. Though he sometimes finds it difficult to connect to his Zuni and New Mexico roots while away at school, Chopito is still able to get a taste of home, courtesy of care packages from Grandma. She overflows these special parcels with flavors that, for a few fleeting bites, transport Chopito back to fall in Zuni Pueblo. But for him, it’s that wafting, smoky scent of a batch of chiles roasting nearby that truly brings his soul and taste buds home.
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the ciao down Fabio’s Antica Cucina finally brings authentic Italian cuisine to Armory Square.
I
t’s a quiet afternoon in Syracuse, NY. Most of the downtown lunch rush has headed back to the office, but inside Fabio’s Antica Cucina, Chef Fabio Santalucia is busy shuffling a pizza around his wood-fired Story by Tess Berger oven, tending to Photos by Evan Jenkins it with a watchful & Eliza Hsu Chen eye. It bubbles and blisters, oozing with fresh cheese as the fire crackles away. He inspects the pie until it reaches perfection and dishes it out to his staff — it’s his way of saying grazie for a shift well done. When Fabio’s opened on South Warren Street this June, it brought something unexpected to the Syracuse food scene: a more authentic Italian dining experience. Though Syracuse has a prominent Italian-American population of 14 percent, most “Italian” menus here were Americanized during Italian immigration. That meant supersized portions and consolidating the pasta and meat courses into one comprehensive dish, leading to Italian-American classics like chicken parmigiana with spaghetti. Fa16 | baked
bio’s deliciously blends those familiar meals with traditional Italian fare. Grazi Zazzara Sr., owner of Fabio’s and the attached Icon Tower Apartments, yearned for a unique restaurant to go alongside his incredibly successful apartment complex. He discovered Santalucia in Cortland, who was struggling to make the bold — and expensive — move to Armory Square to introduce his bona fide version of Italian cuisine to a new clientele. But Zazzara was willing to bet on Santalucia’s concept. “The profit isn’t the priority here,” he says. “It’s just having a great restaurant.” Santalucia learned to roll gnocchi before most kids learn to read in his tiny Italian hometown along the Adriatic Coast, Francavilla al Mare. After cooking his way through Italy, he made the move to Hollywood in 2000 to chase the American Dream, only to land in a resort city north of Miami — nobody told him about the other Hollywood in Florida. He immediately hopped on the next flight to New York City and headed to Little Italy in Manhattan, where he was set up with a
Zazzara
Santalucia
cooking gig in Norwich, NY, a city about an hour from Syracuse. After a few years, he relocated to Cortland, where he ran Fabio’s Italian Restaurant for 14 years. One thing led to another, and now Santalucia is collaborating with Zazzara to introduce authentic Italian fare to Syracuse, a city that focuses heavily on Italian-American cuisine. “A lot of people don’t understand what Italian is,” Zazzara says. “They’re used to Olive Garden.” He hopes that Fabio’s will help educate the greater Syracuse area on the kind of foods Santalucia grew up with: not spaghetti and meatballs, but uncomplicated dishes like pasta aglio e olio (garlic and olive oil). “People will start to appreciate the fact that it’s simple,” Santalucia says. “The secret is in the good products. Buy good flour, fresh eggs, good tomatoes. All those kinds of things to make a good dish is easy.” Fabio’s also replicates the laid-back ambience found in trattorias in Santalucia’s homeland, where it’s common for friends and family to catch up over a glass of wine (or two) or dine for hours. “You go to Italy and you’re just relaxed,” Zazzara says. “It may be a culture change for the other half of the people that
come here saying, ‘Jeez, it’s taking a long time.’ Get another glass of wine. Relax.” Still, Fabio’s also caters to diners accustomed to Italian-American fare, with dishes like fettuccine all’alfredo and chicken marsala. “I try to include dishes that are liked by the community, of course. I’m a guest in this country, so I do my best,” Santalucia says. “But I’m not going to put an Italian name on it if it’s not an Italian dish.” It wasn’t easy for Santalucia to forfeit some of the dishes he grew up with to accommodate an American crowd. When asked how the restaurateurs successfully fused the two cuisines, Zazzara laughs. “I had to beat [Santalucia] in the head a couple times. To make the numbers work, you have to cover a little bit more than just authentic.” The duo have successfully blended the two, creating a cozy atmosphere with both popular Italian-American foods and unknown traditional Italian dishes for customers to discover themselves. For some, the essence of Italian food is found in the simple cooking and the high-quality ingredients. But for Santalucia, the essence isn’t tangible — it’s emotional. “Passion. You have to love food. You gotta like to eat.” fall 2017 | 17
From
Bamyan Valley to Burnet Avenue
Bamyan Kabab brings a taste of Central Asia to Central New York. Story by Megan Shelton Photos by Kelli Collins
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iny mirrored mosaics cover the walls. Copper plates and artwork line the exposed brick on an opposite wall. All the way to the back, a table for eight or more is enclosed by a crimson curtain and gold beaded chains. The aroma of flatbread baking in the oven fills the restaurant, and Afghan music plays from a distance. Tucked away behind Erie Boulevard in a small corner of Burnet Avenue lies Bamyan Kabab, 18 | baked
Syracuse’s first ever Afghan restaurant. Asghar Maleki, owner and operator of Bamyan Kabab, hails from Afghanistan’s capital, Kabul. The name for the restaurant originates from Bamyan (or Bamiyan) Valley, where his father was born and raised. His family and friends from both Kabul and Bamyan helped shape his love for good food. “When I was young, I saw many ladies who were close to my family cooking really, really well,” Maleki says. “I said to myself, ‘Why not me?’” Before finding safety in Syracuse, Maleki and his cousins took their love for good food
and cooking to England and Iran. Since its debut in July, the restaurant’s rising popularity has brought Maleki hope. A few years ago, his brother stepped on an active mine, losing both his legs and suffering a traumatic brain injury. “I hope to raise enough money to buy my brother prosthetic legs,” Maleki says. While Bamyan Kabab has helped Maleki and his family save money for prosthetic legs, it has also given him the opportunity to bring a healthy and diverse menu to an area where obesity rates are some of the highest in the state. According to syracuse.com, Onondaga County ties for sixth place in obesity rankings among New York counties and New York City. “Everything we serve is completely healthy,” Maleki says. “We make the yogurt for dishes in our kitchen. We have been making pickles in the back for five or six months. Nothing is ever frozen or fried, and if we want dishes to be colorful and flavorful, we just add onion, garlic, coriander or saffron.” For Maleki, picking one favorite dish is like choosing a favorite child – he couldn’t do
it. “There are so many amazing dishes from Afghanistan. When [my cousins and I] made the menu, we all sat down and chose our favorites so that we can make a menu we all really like.” Although he enjoys everything on the menu, Maleki raves about the Afghan Manto, which he says are “similar to dumplings.” Thin dough is stuffed with ground beef, garlic and onions and topped with red lentils, fresh coriander yogurt. The Afghan Bolani, a flatbread stuffed with potato and green onions, is a favorite among customers. Another popular dish is the chicken kabab, served on a bed of rice seasoned with coriander, saffron, jalapeños, sliced onion and shredded lettuce. Maleki is proud to bring Afghan cuisine to the Syracuse dining scene, which is diversifying more and more with each restaurant opening. “Food here is all natural, totally cultural and not Americanized in any way. I do not believe there is any other cuisine like this that I have seen in America.” fall 2017 | 19
Penne for Pennies Get a meal, give a donation and gather at monthly Dorothy Dinners. Story by Callie Chute | Photos by Katie Tsai
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he kitchen is in fluid motion throughout the evening. Volunteers shuffle back and forth cooking, passing dishes and putting out trays of food for the hundreds of guests that move through the line. Chatter and laughter echo across the room as friends and strangers bump into each other. This is the Dorothy Dinners scene, an event held at The Bishop Harrison Diocesan Center on Lancaster Avenue, just a five minute drive from campus. On the last Wednesday of every month, Dorothy Dinners bring the Syracuse community together to raise money for those affected by HIV/AIDS with the bonus of a comforting, wholesome meal. From families and friends to Syracuse University professors and local politicians, you can find people from all walks of life here.
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In October 1992, Michael DeSalvo and Nick Orth opened Friends of Dorothy House, a place for people diagnosed with HIV/AIDS to receive free hospice and care. Just a year later, they introduced Dorothy Dinners to raise more money while getting locals involved. Named after famous activist Dorothy Day, Dorothy House is their private home located in the historic Syracuse neighborhood of Hawley-Green. “There wasn’t any place for people to go in Syracuse who were dying, so we started taking them into our home,” DeSalvo says. When they first started this initiative, the house was packed with patients. “Now, people aren’t dying as rapidly, so we’re doing a lot of work outside the house again.” That includes paying for patient copays, having their apartments cleaned, providing transportation and so much more. Though donations are welcome, they are not necessary — it’s about bringing the community together. DeSalvo works the door and Orth oversees food. “We like to make vegetarian meals because it’s cheaper than meat, and it’s inclusive for anyone that may have dietary restrictions,” DeSalvo says. The menu stays pretty consistent, too: pasta with marinara sauce, two salads, fresh vegetables, stretch bread from Pastabilities and a wide array of desserts like brownies, cookies and cake. Most of the sweets are even glu-
“People don’t sit and eat together like they used to.”
ten and dairy free. “Everything is baked the day of. Nick does all the grocery shopping and menu planning,” DeSalvo says. Orth then spends about eight hours prepping for the dinners the day before and about 10 hours setting up and adding the finishing touches. He relies on volunteers to help him prepare the food and serve it buffet-style during the event. As each guest came in, DeSalvo greeted them with genuine excitement and interest. He knew nearly everyone by name, and if someone new arrived, he made them feel completely at home. “How’s your son’s leg doing?” he asked one couple who passed through the door. As another woman entered, he hugged her and clung tightly. “Thank you so much for coming! I’m so glad you could make it.” Attending the dinners creates a platform for activism, which is partly why Friends of Dorothy House and Dorothy Dinners were created. “We’re mostly associated with our work in HIV, but Nick and myself met protesting nuclear weapons, and we’ve always worked against race, class, and all those lovely-isms that we get to experience,” DeSalvo says. He explains how the dinners are representative of so much more than food. For the couple, sharing meals creates a platform for communities to talk about the interrelated issues they are facing. But it’s are also about creating genuine, loving connections. “There’s people just spending time together. People don’t sit and eat together like they used to. This offers a place where people gather and break bread and just eat together.”
fall 2017 | 21
MADS LORENZEN
Denmark: Danish Pancakes
Taste of Home For these international students, cooking traditional dishes makes being away from home a little easier. Photos by Cassie Zhang
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JANVI JOSHI
India: Pav Bhaji
EUNJIN KI
South Korea: Ddeokbokki
CLARE CHEN
China: Dumplings
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Ki steams softened cylinder-shaped rice cakes, the main ingredient in ddeokbokki, before pouring in her spicy sauce.
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Ddeokbokki South Korea: Eunjin Ki
Sliced onions and bright herbs are thrown in the pan minutes before the meal is served.
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The “pav” component is the bread — it’s panfried and served with the bhaji gravy smeared on top.
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Pav Bhaji India: Janvi Joshi
Joshi gently stirs the curry paste into sautĂŠed onions before mashing cooked veggies into the pot.
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“This reminds me of the good ol’ days in kindergarten. When it’s a kid’s birthday, you invite all the other kids from your class over for some food.”
Lorenzen carefully takes a peek under his pancake, making sure both sides are brown before plating.
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Danish Pancakes Denmark: Mads Lorenzen
Before folding it up, Lorenzen puts the finishing touches on his pancake: fresh berries and vanilla bean ice cream.
fall 2017 | 29
Chen adds fresh coriander, chopped bamboo roots and tofu to the filling mixture.
Dumplings China: Clare Chen
Chen first learned how to make dumplings in middle school, where her grandmother taught her all the right techniques.
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turn the page for brunch recipes reusing all your Thanksgiving leftovers
recipages
fall 2017 | 31
Leftover, but Not Forgotten 32 | baked
Recipes by Baked Food Editors | Photos by Evan Jenkins
Your Thanksgiving scraps deserve more than a quick zap in the microwave — gather up your Sunday brunch squad and poach and roast your way to a thrifty Friendsgiving brunch. fall 2017 | 33
Leftover Mashed Potato Puffs
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ombine 2 cups of mashed potatoes, 3 large eggs (beaten), 1 cup of shredded cheddar cheese, ¼ cup of bacon bits and ¼ cup of chopped chives. Season with pepper if needed. Grease a muffin pan and mound a spoonful into each cup. Take ¼ cup of Parmesan cheese and sprinkle it in each cup. Bake for 30-35 minutes at 400 F or until golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes before removing from pan. Serve warm with sour cream.
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Turkey & Vegetable Wontons
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oss 2 cups of finely chopped roasted turkey, 1 cup of steamed carrots, Âź cup of scallions and 1 tsp. of minced ginger with 1 beaten egg white to moisten. Place 1 tsp. of the filling in the center of the wonton wrapper. Dampen the edges of the wrapper by dipping your finger in warm water and run your finger around the edge of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper in half, in a triangle shape, then pinch the sides towards the middle. After stuffed, pan-fry the wontons until golden brown and serve with soy sauce for dipping.
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Leftover Ham & Vegetable Hash
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elt 3 Tbsps. of butter in a large pan. Add half of a medium chopped yellow onion, 2 cloves of minced garlic and ¼ cup diced red pepper and sauté until the onions are translucent. Add 1 cup each of your diced leftover ham, diced sweet potatoes and quartered Brussels sprouts. Add salt and pepper to taste; stir well. Cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add ½ cup of gravy to the skillet. Cook until liquid is mostly evaporated, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the skillet. Allow it to develop a light golden crust, but it should still be moist when done, about 5-10 minutes total. Garnish with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.
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Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict
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ix 1 cup of stuffing and 1 egg together. Form into 2 stuffing cakes, about 3/4� thick each. Pan-fry in butter for about 4 minutes on each side over medium heat, until golden brown on the outside and cooked through. Set aside. Fill a saucepan with about 3 inches of water and 1 tsp. of vinegar and bring to a simmer. Break 2 eggs into a small bowl and add them individually to saucepan. Cook until whites are firm and yolks are still runny, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer eggs to a paper towel with a slotted spoon to drain. Lay 2 pieces of warmed leftover turkey slices on stuffing cakes, followed by poached eggs. Spoon warm cranberry sauce over Benedict. Serve. fall 2017 | 37
Sweet Potato Cinnamon Rolls
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reheat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9 x 13” baking dish with butter. Mix ½ cup of packed brown sugar, ½ cup of leftover sweet potatoes, 2 Tbsps. of cinnamon, ½ tsp. of salt and 6 Tbsps. of unsalted room temperature butter in a small bowl to form a paste and set aside. Roll out your favorite crescent roll dough on a floured surface until it is a large rectangle, about the size of your pan. Spread the filling mixture evenly over the dough, and sprinkle with ½ cup of chopped pecans. Starting from the long end, tightly roll the dough into a log and cut into 12 pieces. Arrange the rolls in the buttered pan. Cover and let them rise at room temperature until they double in size, about 30 minutes. Bake 13-15 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool for 5-10 minutes, then spread your favorite cream cheese frosting on top.
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Cranberry Stuffed Donut Holes
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ombine 2 cups of all-purpose flour, 1 Tbsp. of sugar, 1 tsp. of baking powder, and 1 tsp. of cinnamon in a mixing bowl. Using a knife, cut 5 Tbsps. of cold butter into dry ingredients until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs. Add ¾ cup of milk and mix until all ingredients are combined. Knead dough on a floured surface until it comes together in a smooth ball. Break off golf ball-sized pieces of dough and roll into smooth balls. Fill a large pot with 2 inches of canola oil and heat to 350 F. Prepare a plate by lining it with paper towels. Fry the donuts until puffed and golden, about 3½ minutes. Move cooked donuts to the paper towel-lined plate to drain. Fill a piping bag fitted with a ¼ inch tip with ¾ cup of cranberry sauce. Fill each with 1 tsp. of cranberry sauce. Dust donuts with ½ cup of powdered sugar. fall 2017 | 39
soups soul for the
There’s nothing cozier than filling up on these soulful soups. Recipes by Baked Food Editors Photos by Cassie Zhang
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fall 2017 | 41
potato & corn chowder
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n a large pot, melt 2 Tbsps. of butter over medium heat. Add 1 small diced onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add 1 clove of minced garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Add 2 Tbsps. of flour and stir until there are no dry pockets. Stir in 4 cups of chicken broth and 1 cup of milk and bring to a low boil (you may have to turn up the heat). Once boiling, add 3 russet potatoes, cut into ½ inch pieces, and reduce to a simmer. Let potatoes cook until tender, about 25 minutes. Once potatoes are cooked, stir in 2 cups of corn and Ÿ tsp. of cayenne pepper. Let simmer for about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among bowls and top with cheddar cheese, crumbled bacon, a dollop of sour cream and chives. Serve.
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kale & sweet potato soup
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n a large pot, heat 2 Tbsps. of oil over medium heat. Add 1 diced medium red onion, 2 cloves of minced garlic and 1 Tbsp. of minced ginger, and cook until onion is soft and the garlic and ginger are fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add 6 cups of chicken stock and bring to a low boil. Add 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes, and reduce heat, letting the soup simmer for about 20 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are tender. In a small bowl, mix together ¾ cup of peanut butter and ½ cup of tomato paste. Thin with a little chicken stock from the pot. Add this mixture to the soup, stirring well to combine. Stir in 1 small bunch of chopped kale and let soup simmer for 5-10 more minutes until kale is wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide among bowls and serve. fall 2017 | 43
chicken zoodle soup
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dd 2 Tbsps. of butter and 1 sliced chicken breast to a large pot. Season with salt and pepper and brown. Add 1 small diced yellow onion and cook for about 3-5 minutes. Add 2 chopped celery stalks and 1 clove of minced garlic, cook for about 1 minute. Add 4 cups of chicken broth and 2 chopped carrots, cook for 3-5 more minutes. Add zucchini zoodles and cook until tender. Finish with fresh lemon slices.
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vegan coconut green soup
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n a large pot, heat 1 Tbsp. of oil over medium heat. Add 3 cloves of minced garlic, 1 tsp. of coriander and 1 tsp. of cumin and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 1 can of coconut milk and 3 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add 1 head of chopped broccoli, cover and cook until the broccoli is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add 2 cups of baby spinach and 1 cup of cilantro. Using a blender, blend the soup until smooth (you may have to work in batches). Return to pot and stir in 2 Tbsps. of lime juice. Season with salt. Divide among bowls and top with more coconut milk and cilantro leaves. Serve. fall 2017 | 45
EARBUDS& TASTEBUDS
#forkyeah
Story by Megan Falk | Illustrations by Isabel Zuluaga Mesa
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#forkyeah
Looking for some audible food for thought? These four tasty podcasts are here to satisfy.
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ypically a haven for your taste buds, the kitchen is also a premier venue for melodious sounds: the sizzling of a slab of butter as it hits a hot pan, the crackling of a fresh baguette being split in two. But when you’re away from the stovetop, foodie-driven podcasts have your cravings covered. These hunger-inducing sound bites explore niche topics, teaching listeners everything from starting a food truck to brewing their own beer. Plug in those earbuds, grab a snack and press play on one — or all — of our favorite food podcasts.
THE SPORKFUL
Ever wonder what shape counts as a slice of pizza or how Barack Obama eats his pie? The Sporkful is here to tell you the tip needs an acute angle, and the former president digs into his crust first. Hosted by James Beard Award nominee Dan Pashman, the entertaining yet insightful weekly podcast discusses race, body image and culture through the lens of food. It isn’t for foodies, it’s for eaters, providing a down-and-dirty perspective on food.
RADIO CHERRY BOMBE
Through its mellow, cocktail hour-like chats with chic and successful women, Radio Cherry Bombe showcases female empowerment in the food world. The weekly podcast is hosted by Kerry Diamond, the co-founder of the indie magazine Cherry Bombe. Thanks to a diverse lineup of chefs, bakers and cookbook authors who share the outlooks on their industries, listeners are left feeling inspired — and hungry.
SPILLED MILK
Every Thursday since 2010, Spilled Milk has hilariously discussed a single food-related topic in a bite-sized 20 minutes. With comedians Molly Wizenberg and Matthew Amster-Burton running the show, don’t be surprised to hear a dirty joke (or two). From bibimbap to boxed mac and cheese, the duo share their childhood experiences and rambling thoughts on food, snacking on the topic along the way.
GRAVY
For the folks at Gravy, the roots of American cuisine are found in the South. Through thoughtful and revealing storytelling, the biweekly podcast uses food as a window into the region’s historical and modern issues of race, gender, sexuality, environment and faith. In carving out the voices of the people who grow, cook and serve our meals, Gravy gives the South a whole new taste. fall 2017 | 47
dish-tory
dish-tory: tamales Forget the gifts and wrap tamales this holiday season instead. Story by Chazz Inniss Illustrations by Lucy Naland
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or centuries, tamales have been a Christmas tradition within the Mexican culture. Their portable size and inexpensive ingredients make them the perfect comfort food for family gatherings. Tamales have held historical and religious importance as early as 7000 B.C., where the Aztecs offered them to the gods. After the Spanish conquest, Catholicism spread throughout Central and South America, which influenced tamales to become a part of Christian festivals. Tamales are eaten in celebration of Las Posadas, a 10-day religious festival ending on Christmas Eve, celebrating Mary and Joseph’s journey in search of safe refuge for Mary to give birth to Jesus. Fast forward a couple centuries and, with northward immigration, tamales embraced an even greater cultural role as a symbol of the Mexican-American identity throughout the U.S., particularly in South Texas and Los Angeles. Sold in tamale carts or made at
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dish-tory
home, each mouthful is a bite of history with a dash of spice. Tamales consist of masa (corn flour), some sort of filling (usually chicken or pork) and corn husks or banana leaves as wrapping. When SU senior Kennedy Patlan thinks of home, she’s split between Dallas and Miami, but the first thing that comes to mind are tamales. “It’s a tradition where, every single Christmas Eve, everyone on my dad’s side of the family gathers at his house and we just eat tamales,” says Patlan. Biting into the warm, comforting masa, feeling the kick of the spices and tasting the melt-inyour-mouth flavor is a sensation that Patlan will never forget.
It’s a tradition where, every single Christmas Eve, everyone on my dad’s side of the family gathers at his house and we just eat tamales." Kennedy Patlan, SU senior Though they are often served with a cold beer, in San Antonio, they eat their tamales with Big Red, a type of cream soda adored by Texans. “Its sweet, bubble gum flavor is perfect for the spiciness of the tamale,” says Joanne Duming, a volunteer at the Institute of Texan Cultures in San Antonio. Patlan remembers Big Red as a tamale staple even in her Dallas home. “It brings me back to my childhood. Everyone drinks Big Red,” says Patlan. “I have an uncle who only drinks it. He’s obsessed with it.” Some people make tamales from scratch and others order them, but what matters most is sharing the moment with loved ones. From niños to abuelas, tamales are a true family bonding moment.
How to throw your own Tamalada (tamalemaking party) Making tamales is an all-hands-ondeck activity, where every step matters. This prep is called a tamalada, which is equal parts labor and socializing. Every guest has a different role, from cooking the filling to spreading the masa to preparing the corn husk wrappers. Prep the corn husks for wrapping first by submerging them in hot water for 45 minutes. Then, decide roles to save on prep, leaving more time for chisme*. Next, decide on a filling. You can never go wrong with classics like chicken or pork with red or green chile sauce. After you’ve selected your filling, it’s time to focus on the masa. Always aim for fresh masa, but if you can’t find it, store-bought corn flour will do. Combine the masa, lard, salt, pork stock and ancho chile paste with an electric mixer, or if you really want to prove how strong you are, with your hands. To test if the dough is ready, drop a little masa in a glass of water — if it floats, you’re ready to wrap. Spread the masa on the smooth side of the corn husk, add 2 Tbsps. of your filling of choice and fold in the sides, pulling one end to meet the opposite flat end. Stack them standing upright in the steamer and cook for 1 ½ hours. Once your tamales have been steamed to perfection, serve them with a side of salsa or guacamole and don’t forget a squeeze of lime. Always have lime. *Chisme= healthy gossip, life’s better with it fall 2017 | 49
quiz
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A
C
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quiz
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Crumbled &Cured Try your hand at identifying the charcuterie on our not-soaverage meat and cheese board. Story by Megan Falk & Anna Lightman Photos by Erica Mack
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ince it first made its way onto dinner tables in 15th century France, charcuterie has become a classic hors d’oeuvre, giving diners a taste of the finest selection of cured meats and cheeses. Think you can spot the difference between brie and havarti? Chorizo and soppressata? Put your charcuterie skills to the test and put a name to these meats and cheeses. Manchego
Chorizo
Mozzarella
Havarti
Parmigiano Reggiano
Jamón Serrano
Prosciutto
Jarlsberg
Soppressata
Didn’t do so hot on the quiz? Stop by Wegmans’ cheese shop to conquer these 10 and dozens more.
A. Parmigiano Reggiano; B. Chorizo; C. Brie; D. Jarlsberg; E. Soppressata; F. Jamón Serrano; G. Prosciutto; H. Havarti; I. Manchego; J. Mozzarella
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Brie
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person de cuisine
Eat. Drink. Malt. Give Back.
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person de cuisine
For chef Anthony Donofrio, creativity and inclusivity are always on the menu. Interview by Michaela Marano Story by Chazz Inniss Photos by Kelli Collins
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ince its debut in February 2015, Modern Malt has been the goto downtown brunch spot for locals and ‘Cuse students alike. This creative spin on a classic diner has made quite the impact on the local restaurant scene. A wizard in the kitchen, Executive Chef Anthony Donofrio was awarded the title of Best Local Chef of 2017 by the Syracuse New Times. With Modern Malt’s playful menu and clever takes on brunch favorites, like the Duck Confit Waffle and Pig Benedict, it’s not hard to see why. While all customers sample Donofrio’s creative dishes, not everyone gets to see how he is a champion for inclusivity. Donofrio embraces an inclusive staff by hiring people with disabilities, including one autistic employee who has been working at Modern Malt for two years. “He is one of the best employees I have. He has a true passion for cooking more than anybody else in the entire kitchen,” Donofrio says. After years of experience with an inclusive staff, Donofrio had some simple words of wisdom for employers looking to accommodate those with disabilities: “It's just a matter of having patience. It might take them a few extra times. But they want to learn and can do a job just as well as anyone else.” Philanthropy is another speciality on Modern Malt’s menu. Donofrio throws an annual dinner donation through the Syracuse chapter of GiGi’s Playhouse, a national organization for children with Down syndrome and their families. The local center in Cicero, NY was founded
in 2012 by Donofrio’s brother and sister-in-law. Every year he participates in Philanthropic Foodies, an event thrown by local epicureans who want to give
"It's just a matter of having patience. It might take them a few extra times. But they want to learn and can do a job just as well as anyone else." Anthony Donofrio, Modern Malt Executive Chef
back to the community. The chefs craft creative tasting menus using local ingredients with recommended beverage pairings for each course. As an innovative chef and philanthropist by passion, Donofrio is making your dining experience all-inclusive.
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parting shot
Spirited Shakes These milkshakes bring all the booze to the jar.
Photo by Eliza Hsu Chen
A B
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parting shot
By Emily Magnifico
A. BOOZY PUMPKIN NOG SHAKE
Combine 1 cup of eggnog, ½ cup of vanilla ice cream, ¼ cup of pumpkin purée, ½ tsp. of vanilla extract, ½ tsp. of pumpkin pie spice and 4 oz. of light rum in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour into glasses and garnish with whipped cream, gingersnap crumbs and a dusting of cinnamon.
B. CHERRY GARCIA SHAKE
In a blender, combine 1 pint of Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia ice cream, 3 oz. of light rum and 3 Tbsps. of maraschino cherry liquid until smooth. Pour into glasses and top with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry.
C. THE FROZEN TURKEY
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In a blender, combine 1 pint of Häagen-Dazs Butter Pecan ice cream, 1 oz. of your go-to bourbon and 1 oz. of amaretto until smooth. Pour into glasses and garnish with whipped cream, caramel sauce and crushed toffee bits.
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your student fee