DYNAMITEDINERS No drive-ins or dives, but Syracuse sure has some serious flavortown happening in our diner scene. BY VIOLET LAZARUS | ILLUSTRATION BY AMY LEWIS
M
aybe you’re the bacon and eggs friend. Maybe you go for the Mediterranean omelette, trying to convince yourself that the veggies smothered in feta make up for the extra side of extra bacon. Maybe you’re only interested in whatever is doused in chocolate and covered in whipped cream- bonus points if it has sprinkles. Or maybe you’re ordering a burger and fries despite the fact that it’s 10:30 am. People have been enjoying diners for years; the first known diner was owned by a man named Walter Scott in 1872, and took the form of a repurposed horse-drawn carriage. Scott would ride around Providence, Rhode Island selling coffee, pies, and eggs late at night. The idea quickly spread up the East Coast, and soon there were large companies commercially building “lunch wagons” that others would then buy and run independently. In 1912, Jerry Mahoney established the first stationary diner in Union, New Jersey, the state regarded as the diner capital of America. Even though the diner was not mobile, its appearance was still reminiscent of a wagon. Although diners went through aesthetic phases, like the feminine flower boxes and pastel colors of the 1950s, and the reflective, chrome exteriors of the 70s, many diners today still look like railway cars, trailers, busses, or other methods of transportation as an homage to the American diner’s mobile beginning. Today, a community’s diner is still very much ingrained in the fabric of its town; many politicians make stops at some of America’s most cherished diners on their campaigns, and Guy Fieri basically built a Food Network dynasty on the backs of the local diners featured on his show “Diners, Drive-In’s, and Dives,” New York State is not exempt from the East Coast’s diner-dependent culture. With over 500 diners of its own and 37 eateries featured on Guy Fieri’s infamous show, it’s fair to say New York holds its own. And Syracuse, of course, is no exception. Both a college town and a bustling community separate from 20 | baked
the university, Syracuse is home to a host of amazing diners serving up classic (and sometimes not-so-classic) dishes beloved by students and locals alike. Stella’s, a Syracuse institution that’s been in the area since 1999 and at its current location since 2003, is famous for its pig out platter; a breakfast consisting of three eggs prepared any way you’d like them, two strips of sizzling bacon, one link sausage, and just in case you were still hungry after all that, some ham for good measure. A few Syracuse students and Stella’s enthusiasts raved about their egg benedict. “It’s literally crack,” sophomore student, Emily Johnson said. Manager Jessica Martin listed eggs benedict as one of their more popular menu items, along with sausage gravy, their pasta dishes, and steak. But the hollandaise sauce isn’t all Stella’s has to offer. The diner has a rather bizarre, but undeniably lovable, Betty Boop motif present throughout the diner. When asked what sets Stella’s apart from other local diners, Martin attributed it to the happy servers, great atmosphere, the good food, and the big portions. The Gem, the longest established diner we talked to, has been in Syracuse since 1950, and offers a range of menu items including cream cheese stuffed french toast, frittatas, and even filet mignon. The Gem might not have as much name recognition among the students as other diners, but that’s part of the appeal for junior Laura Angle. “I just like how underrated it is,” Angle said. “Like Mom’s is nice and Rise n Shine is chill and Modern Malt is cool, but The Gem is a very classic diner to me.” Rise N Shine and Modern Malt are both newer diners to the area, with Rise N Shine coming under new ownership in 2012, and Modern Malt starting fresh in 2015. While they both still provide the staples, they also offer unique menu items not typically found at a class diner.
