Vol. 1/May 21-May 27, 2015
Turning
Japanese Batan Waru
‘Shackled in paradiSe’
‘Sampian’ War
from THE EdiTor
Good food Good food is always a good way to start a day, or to sustain and close it, for that matter. a top tourist destination would not survive a single day without the availability of good quality food in a wide spectrum of styles and prices. Bali is fortunate to have a very lively culinary landscape. a steady stream of visitors, a large expatriate population and a burgeoning high-income market sustain the demand for culinary adventures that in the last few years have seen new restaurants spring up in Canggu, Seminyak, Nusa Dua, Sanur and Ubud. This edition’s cover story focuses on master chef Hal yamashita and his recent cooking class at the InterContinental Bali Resort. It reflects the growing interest among world-class chefs and restaurateurs in this tiny island that has steadily grown into a heaven for epicureans. Hopefully, this interest will materialize into a mutual love, in which the visiting chefs inspire, and are inspired by, the treasures that make up Bali’s culinary heritage. — The Editor
Cover Photo: InterContinental Bali Resort
06
Food Revolution Day
ConTEnTs
04
05
Nature’s wonder
Rinjani
07 Watu Klotok 08 Turning Japanese 10 ‘our lake of Imagination’ 11 ‘Sampian’ war 12 ‘Shackled in Paradise’ 16 Batan Waru
PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDIToRIAl AND GENERAl DEPARTMENT Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali
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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi
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Images
Born again “To understand the divine, a man must die and be reborn” words and Photos Anggara Mahendra
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yeda raga is the most critical stage in pediksan, a ritual in which a lay man is initiated to become a Hindu high priest. In nyeda raga, the high priest candidate and his wife are guided by their guru nabe (spiritual mentor) to enter the realm of the dead. They have, metaphorically, died and left behind their old existence, before being reborn as new beings. The couple lies unconscious as rites generally reserved for the deceased are performed for and around them. Only after the guru nabe taps their hands or touches
their foreheads, does the couple regain consciousness. Nyeda raga is a chilling rite for the candidates, as well as their family and community. Stories abound of candidates who failed to regain consciousness and passed away during the rite. At the end of the rite, the guru nabe bestows new names on the candidates. They are officially born again with a new identity and responsibilities. That’s why high priests here are also known as dwijati, those who have been born twice: first from a mother’s womb and later on from the womb of spiritual knowledge.
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Sight
Nature’s wonder “Penglipuran bamboo forest” Words and photos Luh De Suriyani
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trolling along a pathway under a canopy of thousands of bamboo trees is like entering a different world. For residents of the crowded, overpopulated Denpasar, Bali’s provincial capital, being in the midst of this vast sprawling bamboo grove brings a feeling of deep calm and serenity to a busy mind. The sounds of the outside world fade while listening to the rustle of bamboo leaves and creaking of trunks as they sway in the wind. Seeing the dappled sunlight shining through the bamboo grove is a thrilling experience for those entering the forest in the small, ancient village of Penglipuran in Bangli regency, some 60 kilometers west of Denpasar. The 40-hectare bamboo forest is under the custody of Penglipuran customary village and 50-year-old Lanus takes care of 2,500 square meters of the forest. Other male residents of the village care for other parts of the forest. “The forest belongs to the customary village, but the local people here are allowed to plant a large variety of bamboo trees and to generate income from their labor,” explained Lanus. There are dozens of bamboo species in the forest, including petung, jajang aya, jajang abu, tali, papah and suet. “It seems that all bamboo trees look very similar, but actually each one has a distinguishable, unique characteristic,” he said. Local residents are allowed to cut down old bamboo trunks, however, “cutting down young bamboo trunks is strictly prohibited to maintain the sustainability of the forest.” A five-meter tall bamboo trunk can sell for around Rp 20,000 (US$1.53). “The bamboo we sell is well-rooted so you can expect to see new growth by the next harvest.” “A bamboo shoot will grow to its full height
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within three to five months. The people from Penglipuran village have a long history, myths and legends connected to bamboo and its habitat.” The locals use bamboo for cooking utensils, housing exteriors and interiors, fences, ornaments, musical instruments and handicrafts. Bamboo has multiple benefits; its strength and durability is incomparable to other building materials and the majority of houses in Penglipuran village are built either entirely or for the most part from bamboo.
Ni Nyoman Pudek lives in her father-in-law’s home, which is made of woven bamboo rope and bamboo timber. The house, with its modest vernacular architectural style, is cozy and breezy. “We lead a humble but meaningful life here,” said Pudek. The communal bamboo forest management style reflects the people’s strength, flexibility and resilience to natural and human influences. “Mother Earth has given so much to this village and its people — the bamboo forest is its most precious natural asset for all of us.”
Sight
Rinjani “Bengal tiger gets a health check-up!” Words and photos Agung Parameswara
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t was quite a busy day at Bali Zoo in Singapadu, Gianyar, last Wednesday, May 13. One of its divas, Rinjani — a 3-year-old female Bengal tiger, was undergoing a comprehensive medical check-up. The graceful Rinjani deserves her position as a diva at the zoo since the Bengal tiger is classified by the IUCN as an endangered species. Animal doctor I Made Suagiarta, together with the Bali Zoo keepers, was in charge of this extensive examination, which would assess, among others, the tigress’ veins, body temperature, teeth, ears, skin, nails and hair, as well as her blood. Performing the medical check on the 185 kilogram, 170 cm long tigress was heavy work for the zookeepers as they had to carry Rinjani to the zoo’s clinic. Upon arrival at the clinic, Rinjani was anaesthetized and her check up began with her body temperature and the condition of her veins, continuing with an examination of her eyes, ears, razor-sharp teeth, chest and abdomen. “Every animal here — big or small, must undergo a comprehensive health examination to ensure that they are fit and in good health,” explained Emma Kristina, the zoo’s public relations executive. With as few as 2,500 Bengal tigers surviving worldwide, keeping Rinjani in good health is a high priority for Bali Zoo, as well as the international tiger conservation program. After undergoing her health examination, Rinjani was returned to her cage, blissfully unaware of the whole procedure until she quietly woke up. The doctor and the dedicated team from Bali Zoo were all too happy to have completed their gigantic task.
May 21, 2015
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Savor
Food
Revolution Day
“One-day worldwide campaign on healthy and tasty food” WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF FLUX LIFEGROUND
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round 30 Balinese children from 8 to 13 years old participated in the fourth Annual Food Revolution Day last Friday, a global campaign to engage and inspire people about healthy food, how to cook it and maintain the skills for a lifetime. Hosted by Bali-based non-profit organization Flux Lifeground, the event provided an opportunity for these young people to learn how to create a healthy, tasty dish, as well as to share it with the world via social media. Ruth “Sisi” Christasya Hutapea, head of Cookville — a food art program at Flux Lifeground, is Bali’s ambassador for Food Revolution. She joined hundreds of ambassadors from across the world to take part in this campaign. “Cookville is one of the programs that we have for children in Bali to give basic skills training in a fun environment for those who aspire to be in the culinary industry. We hope we can continue inspiring them and bring them one step closer to their dreams,” Sisi said. This is the second year Flux Lifeground has hosted Food Revolution Day. It started because Sisi cared deeply about the health and welfare of children, and she wanted Flux to represent and connect with the community to run a local “real food” movement, getting people to cook again and promote better understanding of food education. The event, called “Food, Styling & Shoot”,
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included free workshops on various topics led by chef Revo (Junior Master Chef Indonesia), pastry chef Guergerian from Monsieur Spoon, food styling by Stephanie Djaya, social media by Oriana Titisari from Utopiar and food photography by Heri from Let’s Eat magazine. Sisi and Revo worked hard to choose four potential young chefs, who would continue their cooking efforts in a professional kitchen to help them gain confidence and experience. “I believe in the cause, and it feels good to be here in person to share my experience. Cooking healthy food can be so fun and easy!” Revo commented. Yolan, one of the chosen four, commented that she was ecstatic when her name was announced. “I had so much fun. I didn’t realize that cooking could be so easy, and if you do it with love, the outcome will be supper yummy!” Initiated by chef Jamie Oliver and the Jamie Oliver Food Foundation, Food Revolution Day also aims to put compulsory practical food education on the school curriculum. Oliver passionately believes that by educating children about food in a fun and engaging way, they can be equipped with the basic skills they need to lead healthier, happier lives for themselves and their future families. With diet-related diseases rising at an alarming rate, he believes that it has never been more important to educate children about food, where it comes from and how it affects their bodies.
Sight
Watu Klotok “Untouched by tourism” Words and photos Bram Setiawan
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he village of Satra in Klungkung regengy, just 30 kilometers from Denpasar along Jl. Bypass Ida Bagus Mantra, is not well known. It is, however, home to a beach named after the village temple — Watu Klotok. Taking a small road off the bypass, visitors arrive at the quiet beach, which overlooks Nusa Penida. Mostly local people visit this site to enjoy its beauty and to take advantage of its sand’s potential for natural healing. Several men and women had their feet immersed in the warm sand, some even “burying” their bodies to their upper chests. It is believed that the granular structure and the sand’s minerals have remarkable therapeutic powers, especially for people with symptoms of rheumatism, osteoporosis
and skin problems. It is also said to ease tired muscles. For the village residents, Watu Klotok temple is a place for meditation and prayer. “This is our place for self-purification. We come to the temple to pray for prosperity. We are farmers, we pray for good harvests and fertile soils,” a temple visitor said. Watu Klotok Beach has huge waves and is actually ideal for surfing and other watersports. The road to the beach is narrow, but it is paved. Watu Klotok is one of the island’s unspoiled beaches, remaining untouched by the hustle and bustle of tourism. For those wanting the feel of “real” Bali, it is perhaps worth the visit.
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Cover Story
Turning
Japanese I
nterContinental Bali Resort hosted master chef Hal Yamashita last week and presented a series of gastronomic culinary experiences to Japanese food enthusiasts. Yamashita cooks what he likes to refer to as “Nouvelle Japanese”, having grown up in Kobe, Japan, a city with a strong foreign presence that influenced his concept of food and cuisine. His parents owned an izakaya, a traditional Japanese drinking establishment that also served casual food and he has been cooking since the age of 9. With nine restaurants in Japan, from Osaka to Kobe and Tokyo, and the recently opened Syun Restaurant on Sentosa in Singapore, Yamashita’s deceptively simple recipes are clearly a huge success. Bali Buzz was fortunate enough to meet Yamashita for a cooking class at InterContinental Bali Resort’s KO Restaurant, Teppanyaki and Cocktail Lounge, with a menu comprising sashimi garden salad with yuzu ginger sauce, grilled cod with saikyo miso and parmesan cheese, followed by simmered pork “kakuni” with mashed potato. All of these dishes are on the menu at Yamashita’s restaurants. Presiding over the kitchen, with eager students sat around the teppanyaki counter watching, Yamashita proceeded to demonstrate the minimalist style of his dishes. Using the freshest, prime ingredients, carefully selected for the best
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combinations, the tastes shine through and make for surprisingly complex flavors. Yuzu is a popular Japanese ingredient and is an East Asian citrus fruit with a distinctive flavor, which to the chagrin of the students is not available in Bali. Used alongside rice oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, onion and ginger, it makes an addictive, zingy dressing and simply required the ingredients be mixed in a blender and left to sit for one to two hours for the flavors to develop. Having imparted instruction on how to correctly cut salmon and tuna — across the grain, on a diagonal slant with a straight down cut for the last couple of millimeters, and scallop — quartered with straight cuts, the sashimi was placed carefully on the salad leaves and the yuzu ginger sauce taste sensation poured carefully over it. A flick of bright orange roe, artfully scattered with chopsticks, finished off the presentation, which, even with practice, none in the class could replicate! Cheered by the easy recipe and the hope that perhaps we could be master chefs in our own kitchens, the next course was grilled cod. Again, the success of this dish was in the preparation and the detail. Slicing thick slabs of gindara fish, a type of cod, Yamashita sprinkled it with salt and explained it would be left in the fridge for 24 hours to draw out the water. The accompanying marinade consisted of miso — fermented soy beans used
“Master Chef Hal Yamashita shows the Zen nature of delicious food” Words Amanda O’Connor Photos Chris O’Connor and courtesy of Hal Yamashita and InterContinental Bali Resort
extensively in Japanese cooking, with the white (saikyo) version chosen for its slightly sweeter and more subtle taste that would not overpower the fish — sugar, soy sauce and sake. Yamashita recommended using cheap drinking sake instead of cooking sake, as there is no added salt. Simply mixing these ingredients together in a bowl, he put the washed fish into the bowl, covered it and said it should now be left for 48 hours in the fridge. After the three days’ preparation, the fish was simply fried in a little oil for three minutes each side over a medium flame and served with 24-month aged, grated fresh parmesan cheese and a decorative stem of Japanese ginger. This supremely succulent fish was so tender that it flaked apart easily with chopsticks, with the lightly seared outer contrasting with the rich, yet delicate flesh. Answering a query on the use of parmesan,
Yamashita stated that it added to the umami taste and was a good partner to miso. As with all chefs, Yamashita travels with a locked box of knives. The heavy sashimi knife is made with the centuries-old tradition of folded steel and is sharpened only to one side. His meat knife has the more traditional dual-sided sharpness and was much lighter in weight, while to cut fruit and vegetables, he prefers a ceramic knife so it doesn’t bruise the flesh or impart a metallic taste. Yamashita’s hard work and dedication to creating consistently delicious cuisine, clearly inspired by Japanese traditions but enhanced with tastes and ingredients from other nations, has resulted in him representing Japan twice in the World Gourmet Series, winning the World Best Chef award in 2010. He is also a special advisor to The United Nations World Food Programme with a special interest in food for
young children. Being a creative perfectionist, Yamashita said he was “very excited to share my take on modern Japanese fare with a different audience”. To extend this reach further, while at InterContinental Bali Resort, the engaging chef with an easy sense of humor also presented several gastronomic evenings, with the ninecourse offering including his renowned sea urchin rolled in deeply marbled wagyu beef with avruga caviar, a highly refreshing palate cleanser of yuzu granita with plum wine jelly balls that had just a hint of sweetness, and a charcoal grilled wagyu beef with sea urchin and sukiyaki sauce. InterContinental Bali Resort has other special “experiences” being arranged, which, if like the Hal Yamashita Experience, will be fun, educational and exceptionally tasty.
May 21, 2015
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art
‘our Lake
of imagination’ WoRDS deSy nurhAyATi PHoToS COurTeSy OF KeTeMu PrOJeCT SPACe
“KINTaMaNI CHIlDReN CleaN laKe BaTUR To CReaTe aN aRT PRoJeCT FoR THe 28TH Sea gaMeS”
l
ocated at the foot of Mount Batur, lake Batur in Kintamani is the largest lake on the island. What once was pristine water where children could swim is now infested with water hyacinth and littered with plastic packages of pesticide and fertilizer from farms along the shore. aiming to raise awareness on this issue and to teach children that their actions will impact their environment, a group of artists have collaborated in Ketemu Project Space to initiate “our lake of Imagination”. With help from 75 fifth-grade children from nearby SD 3 elementary school in Songan village, the work celebrates life and nature surrounding the lake with elements of play, creativity and dynamism and uses water hyacinth as the key material. Having been labeled the world’s worst waterweed and garnering international attention as an invasive species, water hyacinth is worsening the environmental crisis in lake Batur. “It is a pity that in most scenarios, people stand up for our environment only when it is on the brink of destruction. art is one of the best ways for children to understand that their actions will impact their environment. […] Being able to present their efforts and creativity in this art installation on a
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platform like the Sea games brings them great motivation,” said Budi agung Kuswara, founder of Ketemu Project Space. The art installation has been recently shipped to Singapore to be displayed at Marina Bay Sands in an exhibition held as part of the 28th Sea games, which will take place there in June. Some of the children participating in this art project will travel to Singapore to be torchbearers in a symbolic run around the city to open the Sea games. Ketemu Project Space has run workshops with the children over three months to produce parts of the public installation. Mayun Dewi, project manager, explained that these included water hyacinth weavings, windmills and a farmer’s bicycle. The windmills were created from a special kind of palm leaf used by the Balinese to create lontar manuscripts. The children decorated and constructed windmills from the leaves, infusing a playful element to a material symbolic of wisdom. The children, together with the Songan youth community, harvested the water hyacinth from lake Batur. The material was dried and used to weave the shell of the sphere. Written on the weavings are the children’s hopes for their future and for the lake.
Sight
‘Sampian’ war “A ritual to promote peace in nature”
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t Samuan Tiga Temple in Gianyar, there is a unique ritual after the penyineban, or closing ceremony of the odalan (celebration of the temple’s anniversary). The devotees hold a sampian war, where they throw sampian, a shield-like piece of ritual paraphernalia made of young coconut leaves, at each other. On May 6, at around 9 a.m., dozens of sutri (female devotees) entered the temple field with full concentration. Slowly but deliberately, they danced while circling the temple area. They wore simple clothes: black kemben (a wraparound breast cloth), white kebaya (traditional blouse) and a hibiscus flower placed in their hair. For three hours, they performed a ritual called nampyog, which is divided into several parts. In the first part, they danced, circling the temple six times.
After that, a group of the temple’s priests followed suit, carrying genta (ceremonial bells) in their left hands and circling the temple three times with the sutri. The sutri danced while holding the tip of the belt worn by the dancer behind them. This ritual is aimed at promoting peace. After the sutri were done, 250 male devotees took the stage, forming a line and running around the temple to form a motion similar to the ocean’s waves, touching all corners of the temple with their feet. Once this had been completed, the sutri returned to the field with their sampian. They hit their sampian against each other, exactly in front of the symbols for the temple’s gods. At the end of the ritual, a group of male devotees entered the scene and, taking up the sampian, started to fight each other, beating and throwing themselves in a chaotic, yet dramatic, war.
WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA
They shouted joyously as they raised their hands to receive the blessing of holy water. They felt no anger, nor did they feel any pain. In fact, they enjoyed the fight and laughed throughout the ritual. Samuan Tiga Temple in Pejeng, Gianyar, is a very sacred place for Balinese Hindus. In addition to its function as a house of worship, Samuan Tiga is also where numerous historic events have taken place. At the temple, during the reign of Gunapriyadharmapatni and Udayana Warmadewa, a meeting of religious leaders agreed on a concept called Tri Murti, which was implemented by establishing desa pakraman (customary villages) and kahyangan tiga (three temples for the three major deities) concept. Also in this temple, the conflicting Hindu sects successfully reconciled during the 11th century.
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Soul
‘Shackled in Paradise’ “Ten years of dedication to helping the mentally ill in Bali” WORDS LUH DE SURIYANI PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI AND RUDI WAISNAWA
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he premiere of a documentary titled “Terpasung di Pulau Surga” (Shackled in Paradise) on May 11 marked the 10th anniversary of Suryani Institute for Mental Health. Created by Rudi Waisnawa, the 35-minute movie captures extreme situations that mentally ill people from very marginalized and poor families have to endure. It tells the story of how the institute founder, Luh Ketut Suryani, and volunteers approached the families of mentally ill people who are shackled due to a lack of funds to have them medically treated. The scenes exposed how they tried to convince the families to release their ill relatives but faced rejection, as well as showing their efforts to provide appropriate treatment. Accompanied by heartbreaking music, the movie opened with a scene displaying Sucita, a village official who was scared of releasing a woman who had been shackled in her house for years. The woman cried while calling for her late father when her hands, which had been chained to a concrete wall, were finally released. Suryani gave her an injection to calm her down.
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Another patient was an agile-looking man who looked alert but had been imprisoned in his house. Suryani and her team seemed to face no difficulty communicating with him. He told the team how he had been in and out of Bangli Mental Hospital eight times before finally being locked up by his family. Other scenes displayed mentally ill people with their hands and legs shackled. There was also a dramatic scene of Wayan Buduh, a man who had to drag around a 25-kilogram piece of wood, to which his left leg was attached, at anytime he wanted to walk around. The documentary, however, did not focus fully on horrifying images of the gruesome lives of these mentally ill people, with only a few close-up shots of chained hands, the patients’ facial expressions and the rooms where they were locked away. “I actually still have stock of more devastating scenes, but I decided not to show all of them and instead focus on the efforts to approach the families and provide proper treatment,” said Rudi, who is also a photographer. Indeed, it was not easy to convince the families to release their relatives as they were afraid they would hurt other people.
The documentary was shot in several areas of the province, including Denpasar, Klungkung, Gianyar and Jembrana. According to Suryani, the problems faced by the mentally ill in Bali had worsened due to a lack of response and financial support from the government and private sector regarding the issue. She recommended families treat their mentally ill relatives at home with care and affection, rather than admitting them to hospitals. According to the Suryani Institute report, treating patients at home, with the support of neighbors, had resulted in positive outcomes, including reducing the stigma of mental illness. As many as 58 percent of the patients treated well by their families could be cured without any medication, while 32 percent were cured with medication. The institute has also released at least 82 shackled patients. Suryani said around 350 people in Bali were suffering from serious mental illness and shackled by their families. She also mentioned that some 9,000 people on the island were currently facing various types of mental illness, as indicated by — among others — the rising number of suicides.
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Island Buzz Seminyak Kitchen introduces Italian Night Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak’s sole restaurant presents an array of Italian-inspired cuisine for the month of June. After holding several buffet nights, ranging from Indonesian to Thai food, for the hotel’s in-house guests over the past few months, executive chef Billy Costoglou is now presenting a wide range of Italian dishes in the soon to launch Italian Nights. Options range from various bruschetta, to cannelloni pasta, homemade pizzas and a selection of classic Italian desserts, such as panna cotta and tiramisu. “Italian food for me is a symbol of being together and enjoying a moment. What better way is there to spend your holiday than with your closest ones, munching on classic Italian dishes?” said Costoglou. The Italian Night buffet is available every Thursday throughout June from 6:30PM to 9:30PM for Rp 200,000++ (US$15.18) per person, inclusive of coffee and tea. For wine lovers, the finest Italian wines are also available for purchase by the glass at an additional charge. In addition to Italian Nights, throughout the month of June, Seminyak Kitchen will also offer Italianinspired dishes such as vegetable lasagna and Capricciosa pizza on the all day a la carte menu. Guests are also welcome to challenge Costoglou to make pasta based on their personal taste.
Ayodya Resort Bali wins multiple awards Early this year, Ayodya Resort Bali was honored to receive the HolidayCheck 2015 award from holidaycheck.com based on various categories, such as Beach Resort, Spa Resort, Honeymoon Resort and Pool Paradise in Bali. This award is in addition to the achievement of receiving the Gold Circle Award 2014 from agoda.com and Award of Excellence 2014 from booking.com. HolidayCheck.com is Europe’s leading hotel review portal, with 25 million visits each month. In order to be nominated, Ayodya Resort Bali had to have at least the minimum number of reviews, a minimum recommendation rate of 90 percent and a score of at least five out of six suns on HolidayCheck from reviews submitted in 2014. Meanwhile, booking.com and agoda.com are the leading online booking portals worldwide with around 650,000 room nights reserved each day. The Award of Excellence 2014 was presented by booking.com based on the high level of guest satisfaction with Ayodya Resort’s service and facilities, while the Gold Circle Award 2014 from agoda.com was given as a mark of excellence based on specific criteria and requirements, including number of positive reviews and consistency of competitive pricing. The Ayodya Resort Bali management stated that these achievements motivated the management and its entire workforce to continually improve the resort’s high quality of service and standards.
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Events Food & Drinks
Calendar of Events
BBQ & BEATS May 22 From 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Presented by Sailor Jerry All you can eat BBQ at Rp 120,000 Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Double Six no.66, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Seminyak : (0361) 731 266 Exotic Wine Dinner May 22 Starts at 7 p.m. A four-course avant-garde Indonesian dinner by Chef Djoko Sarwono paired with distinguished wines VIN+ Seminyak Jl. Kayu Jati #1 Seminyak : (0361) 473 2377 Jenja Weekenders May 22 Starts 11 p.m. Jenja Resturant, Bar & Club Townsquare Suites, Jl. Nakula 18, Seminyak : 0811 3988 088 Hubud’s Anniversary Party: The Space! May 23 From 6:30 to 11 p.m. Free entry for members, Rp 50,000 for non-members Jl. Monkey Forest No. 88, Ubud Night of The Living Dead Cocktail Party May 23 Starts 7 p.m. Frankensteins Laboratory Jl. Dyana Pura 6, Seminyak : (0361) 731 622 Stage One starring Unb’rocken Best of Blues May 23 Starts 8 p.m. Celebrating three years of performances Casablanca Dine Drink Dance Jl. Danau Tamblingan No.120, Sanur Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 - 11 a.m. Come and join the fun of sharing farm duties, workshops, etc. Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com
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May 21, 2015
Canggu
Waroeng Pasta Grage Homey restaurant specializing in pasta. Jl. Pantai Brawa, Canggu : (0361) 8446472
DEnpaSaR
Warung Laklak Men Gabrug Enjoy real traditional Balinese sweets and cakes. Jl. Nusa Indah No. 64, Denpasar
JImbaRan
Paper Planes Enjoy peranakan food in our vintage garden house. Jl. Danau Batur Raya No. 22B, Taman Griya, Jimbaran : 081238311818
KERoboKan
Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee. Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan
Kuta
Earth Café Vegetarian meals served in a very organic way Jl. Laksmana No. 99 Oberoi, Kuta : (0361) 736645
SanuR
Bread Basket Sells excellent homemade bread. Open for breakfast and lunch. Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 51, Sanur : (0361) 3688778
SEmInyaK
Bo$$ Man Only for serious burger bingeing, created with unique flavors, ready to shake your taste buds. Jl. Kayu Cendana No. 8B, Seminyak : 0812 391 67070
ubuD
Pica Serving up delicious South American treats in an intimate setting. Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud : (0361) 971660
Activities
ART & CULTURE CORNER DEnpaSaR
Wayang Kulit Every Saturday Starts 8 p.m. Oka Kartini Jl. Raya Ubud
JImbaRan
Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m. Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163
Temples
Kuta
Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m. Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750
Besakih Temple Besakih Temple, Bali’s Mother Temple, is perched 1,000 meters high on the southwestern slope of Mount Agung. Goa Lawah Goa Lawah, also known as the Bat Cave Temple, is located on the main road between Denpasar and Candidasa in Pesinggahan village, Klungkung.
ubuD
Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday Starts 7:30 p.m. Mawang village, Ubud
Pulaki Temple Located in Pulaki village, Seririt, Singaraja regency, in north Bali. Just three hours’ drive from Bali’s airport or a one-hour drive from Singaraja.
Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Every Friday Starts 7 p.m. Bentuyung Village, Ubud Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m. Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503
Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com
Rafting Sobek Bali Largest transport network in Bali. Comfortable, airconditioned vehicles linked by radio to monitor client journeys. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 257, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar : (0361) 729016
Tour & Travel Agent Courses
Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045
Ramayana Dance Every Tuesday Starts 7:30 p.m. Puri Ubud, Jl. Raya Ubud
Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m. Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596
Uluwatu Temple Pura Uluwatu, one of six key temples believed to be Bali’s spiritual pillars, is renowned for its magnificent location on the top of a steep cliff approximately 70 meters above sea level, as well as its macaque population. Located at Uluwatu, Pecatu, Jimbaran
Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com
Spa Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar Spa Luxurious, holistic traditional spa. Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak : (0361) 731648
Waterpark Waterbom Bali More than 21 world-class waterslides and leisure facilities for all ages. Located in the heart of Kuta. Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 755676 Email: info@waterbom-bali.com New Kuta Green Park Young family recreation with a water park and outbound activities. Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu, Kuta Selatan : (0361) 8484777
Paragliding Bali Paragliders Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta : (0361) 704 769 Email: info@baliparagliders.com www.baliparagliders.com
Yoga Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia. Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience.
Bikram Yoga Istana Kuta Galleria Blok VL No. 12 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta : (0361) 769040
Where to go
Om Ham Retreat
Hu’u Bali
Enjoy peaceful Ubud with high-class accommodation and space to rejuvenate body and spirit in a yoga and spirit therapy center. Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud : (0361) 9000352 omhamretreat.com
Ayodya Resort Bali
The new Hu’u Bistro menu is launched this month Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4736 576 huubali.com
Saturday Brunch - Waterfall Restaurant From 12:30 to 3:30 p.m. Luring your palate with international cuisines from our five distinguished restaurants Jl. Pantai Megiat, Nusa Dua : (0361) 771 102
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Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA
Pulaki Gilimanuk
Mt. Sangiang
Mt. Batur Mt. Musi
West Bali National Park
Besakih Mt. Agung
NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi
AMLAPURA Sangeh
Ubud
BANGLI
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TABANAN
GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan
DENPASAR
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Canggu Seminyak Legian Kuta
Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport
Benoa
Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu
5 Sanur
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Nusa Dua
Pura Batu Madan
Penida Island
MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali
French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment. Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com metisbali.com
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5 Prama Sanur Beach Bali
Witness a turtle release ceremony on the beach to commemorate World Turtle Day on May 23 Starts 9 a.m. Jl. Cemara, Sanur : (0361) 288 011 aerowisatahotels.com
Kecak & Fire Dance
Daily Starts 6 p.m. Uluwatu Temple. Bali Hello Travel : (0361) 951958
May 21, 2015
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Savor
Batan Waru “Nearly three decades after opening, an Ubud establishment still serves exciting food”
Words and Photos I Wayan Juniarta
B
y today’s standards, Kafe Batan Waru could be considered an old establishment in Ubud. The small town has experienced a sort of culinary renaissance in the last few years with the emergence of several top notch fine dining restaurants, the rising popularity of healthy foods, the opening of numerous small diners serving regional foods - from Mexican to Japanese and Korean, as well as the victorious inroads of gelato outlets and serious coffee houses. Batan Waru was opened in 1987 with fifty seats and a tiny kitchen at the side of Jl. Dewi Sita. Back then, that road was still very quiet and quite empty. Nowadays it boasts several good restaurants and suffers a daily dose of traffic congestion. The passing of time and the changes it has brought, however, have not eroded Batan Waru’s initial mission to prove that Indonesia has a culinary heritage every bit as venerable as those of her better-known neighbors. A satisfying lunch recently demonstrated that it still offers excellent food that can give the newer establishments a run for
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their money. A glass of iced brem, a local alcoholic drink made of fermented glutinous rice, opened the session. It was sweet, refreshing and settled the mind for the big treat that soon followed: Tuna Sambal Matah. A thick slab of fried tuna was served with a generous portion of sambal matah, Bali’s signature and most popular sambal. The simplest form of sambal matah (literally raw sambal) is made of chopped raw shallot, raw onion, and raw chilli soaked in coconut oil with a dash of kaffir lime. Batan Waru served the most elaborate form of the sambal, adding to the mixture finely minced lime leaves, ginger flower, basil, as well as slices of raw dwarf eggplant and fried beans. The result was an amalgamation of flavors that could make a Balinese man cry in appreciation. The blend of flavors went very well with the tender, juicy tuna meat, making it the first portion to vanish from the table. The Tuna Sambal Matah was clearly the jewel of the lunch. Pairing it with a portion of urap pakis (steamed wild fern with grated coconut and
spices) left the stomach and heart with that rare sense of contentment, the kind of feeling that makes you grin widely and endlessly. Batan Waru has an extensive list of offerings, from main courses that cover all the popular foods of Indonesia, to international fare and delectable desserts - its Key Lime Pie is sublime. It also serves wines, cocktails, and coffees
sourced from the hilly Kintamani region. Batan Waru manages a four-hectare organic farm near the region as the source of its fresh vegetables and spices. A cup of Balinese coffee closed the nourishing lunch and we left the premises fully knowing that the old establishment was still on the top of its game.