DRESSCODE • 2012 • ENGLISH EDITION by ballguide

DRESSCODE DRESSCODE BALL CULTURE MAGAZINE • ISSUE 01/2012 • www.ballguide.at/dresscode

The right

dress code for every Ball

All dress codes of the ball season and the most beautiful accessories for your perfect moment in the spotlight

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Dresscode

Editorial

Stefan Grossek Editor

Let the ball season begin! At the start of the 2012 ball season I am delighted to present the third edition of DRESSCODE. This edition is dedicated to the classic ball season: from New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve, society life in Vienna and all Austria revolves once again around the pleasures of the dance floor. Informing their guests about the right dress code for their event is near and dear to many renowned ball organisers. To cater to these needs we have included an overview of all dress codes of the ball season in this magazine. Numerous examples are used to explain how to implement the correct dress code for every event. In the weeks to come we will update the magazine regularly and enhance it with exciting articles about the ball season. Dates and details of Austriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful balls can already be found in the printed ballguide and on our website www.ballguide.at (both only available in German). I wish you an entertaining and varied ball season 2012!

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 005

season start 16 Season opening 20 Dressed to Dance! The meaning and history of dress codes 28 New styles for 2012 Christine Rührlinger gives an outlook on the fashion 2012 30 Dress codes in practice What a viennese ball organiser expects from his guests 32 The Wiener Ärzteball "Ballfather" Dr. Fuchs talks about tradition & dress codes 36 Tips for a night at the ball Interview with KR Maximilian Platzer and Bernd Querfeld

CONTENT DRESSCODE

40 Dress codes at a glance Balls and their dress codes

ball-highlights 42 Ballguide 2012 44 110. ZuckerBäckerball

89. Wiener Blumenball

47 WU-Ball 2012 Ball der Wiener Philharmoniker

48 Ball der Offiziere 2012 TU Ball 2012 50 Ball der Technik Graz 2012

62. Wiener Ärzteball

52 Grazer Opernredoute

55. Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder

54 Hofburg-Ball der Wr. Wirtschaft

Juristen-Ball 2012

57 Rudolfina Redoute

92. Elmayer-Kränzchen

58 115. Concordia Ball

Fête Impériale 2012 Dresscode • 007

content

LADIES‘ DRESS CODES 62 Ball gown All you need to know about the most noble dress code of the ball season 66 Long evening gown Most frequently worn dress, suited to almost every ball 70 Ladies’ gala uniform The official dress code of the Austrian army is also available for ladies 74 Cocktail dress The suitable outfit for all school and dance school balls

78 Festive national costume Traditional costume balls are in vogue 82 The ball gown as a unique creation The high art of couture

LADIES‘ ACCESSORIES 86 Elements of attire Add the finishing touches to your ball outfit with the appropriate accessories

88 Glamour makeup The best makeup tips for dancing the night away 90

Elegant hair styling Invaluable tips for a perfect ball “do” – from styling to hair accessories

MEN’S DRESS CODES 94 Tailcoat What you need to know about the elegant dress code

Mi t freundl iche r Unte rstützung vo n 008 • Dresscode

98 Tuxedo What you need to look out for when wearing a Tux

2012

Wiener Hofburg

BALL DER TECHNISCHEN UNIVERSITÄT WIEN ballbüro technische universität wien karlsplatz 13, 1040 wien ab 12. 01. 2012 mo 9 –19 uhr, di bis fr 9 –16 uhr tel. 01 / 58801- 419 29 WWW.TU-BALL .AT Communications and Process Platform

content

MEN’S DRESS CODES 84 Gala uniform The official dress code of the Austrian army 88 Dark suit Did you know that at balls the dark suit is only worn with a bow tie? 92 Festive national costumes The most important details of men’s traditional suits

MEN’S ACCESSORIES 98 Elements of attire From hat and scarf to socks and shoes

114

101 Tie guide How to tie ties and bow ties and fold dress handkerchiefs correctly

REVIEW 2011 126 Highlights 2011 128 110th ZuckerBäckerball 130 89th Wiener Blumenball 132 WU-Ball 2011

126

134 Ball der Wiener Philharmoniker 136 Ball der Offiziere 2011 138 TU Ball 2011 140 Ball der Technik Graz 2011 142 61st Wiener Ärzteball 144 Grazer Opernredoute 146 Hofburg-Ball der Wr. Wirtschaft 148 54th Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder 150 Juristen-Ball 2011 152 Rudolfina Redoute 154 91st Elmayer-Kränzchen

Mi t freundl iche r Unte rstützung vo n 010 • Dresscode

156 114th Concordia Ball 158 Fête Impériale 2011

DRESSCODE DRESSCODE BALL CULTURE MAGAZINE • Issue 01/2012

Editor Stefan Grossek ADVISORS TO THE EDITOR Bettina Rohrer, Irmie Schüch-Schamburek Photos Franz Pflügl, Robert Osmark, Daniela Beranek Models Next Company, Vanity Fair/Jaqueline Media owner ballguide Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Nussdorferstrasse 4a/114, 1090 vienna, austria contact Telefon • +43 (0)1 997 1727 Fax • +43 (0)1 997 1727 1999 E-Mail • info@ballguide.at Web • www.ballguide.at translation Angharad Gabriel Production nine one one Werbeagentur gesellschaft m.b.h., plüddemanngasse 105, 8042 graz , austria place of publication vienna

our thanks to Braumüller Verlag for texts and images from the styling guides „dresscode man“ and „dresscode woman. All information is supplied without liability.

012 • Dresscode

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dresscode editorial team

Betty Rohrer The Viennese media professional has been devoted to the Austrian ball season for many years. Through her close contact with many ball organisers she is particularly au fait with the ball season. She is responsible for the creative concept of Dresscode and the management of the entire production.

Irmie Schüch-Schamburek Fashion journalist Irmie Schüch-Schamburek answers all important questions related to dress codes and shows ladies and gentlemen how to easily follow the required dress code. She is also the author of numerous books on styling and fashion.

Franz Pflügl Under the motto “Photography is a love affair with life”, Upper-Austrian Franz Pflügl has worked successfully as a fashion and lifestyle photographer in Vienna for many years. For Dresscode he captured numerous models in the most beautiful outfits of the ball season.

Marianne Zahel The freelance designer Mag. Art. Marianne Zahle studied at the University for Applied Arts, Vienna in the class of Karl Lagerfeld. Fashion designs and illustrations, as well as the discovery of special cutting patterns are among her greatest passions.

Hariet Müller – Fashion drawings Hariet Müller, born in Stuttgart in 1988, studied Fashion at the Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim. Before that she qualified as a bespoke tailor. Hariet’s illustrations stand out thanks to their clear, reduced lines and her expressive use of water colour paints. Dresscode • 015

Season Opening On 17 November the new ballguide for the season of 2012 was presented in the rooms of the Spanish Riding School. ballguide-editor Mag. Stefan Grossek and KR Maximilian K. Platzer (Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder) were the hosts at the already traditional opening of the ball season on the evening of November 17th in the Spanish Riding School. Additionally to the presentation of the new ballguide-editions for Vienna, Upper Austria and Styria, numerous ball organisers took the opportunity of giving a preview of the forthcoming balls. l

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Theaterkasse Kaiser-Josef-Platz 10, 8010 Graz Tel. 0316 / 8000 opernredoute@buehnen-graz.com

28. JĂ¤nner 2012

Der gesellschaftliche HĂśhepunkt des Jahres. www.opernredoute.com

Dressed

to dance! ”One must celebrate when one has the chance!” – a good resolution, as long as one is properly attired. The art of dressing for the occasion has a long history. In the olden days it was a social must to keep to the strict dress rules. Certain materials, patterns and even colours were reserved for certain classes of society – and any disregard of these rules was severely punished. Today, of course, things aren’t quite so strict, as long as it does not concern state uniforms. Nevertheless, there are dress codes and ignoring these inevitably leads to disconcertment, undervaluation and sometimes even expulsion.

020 • Dresscode

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 021

Dr e ss c o d e s

dress • MODEHAUS steinecker | Schmuck • pierre lang 022 • Dresscode

The meaning of dress codes

p r o v i d e s e c u r i t y a n d c r e at e a mb i e n c e .

In all cultures there have always been certain attires for festive and ritual occasions. Their origins can be traced back to the Stone Age and were – just like fashion itself – always subject to change. In England in the mid 18th century the tailcoat developed from the military coat, which in turn had evolved – as did the morning suit – from a civic coat. There are various theories about the genesis of the tuxedo. One of them implies that King Edward had commissioned its design for less formal dinner invitations, which explains the alternative name “dinner jacket”. The king’s American guests brought this trend to the ele-

Dress regulations are subject to specific cultural and social standards, which can be further subdivided into regional and national. Therefore it is necessary to differentiate between traditional and practised dress regulations and to inform oneself about any local subtleties. The knowledge of dress codes is more important than ever, but not very wide spread – many ball organisers are in agreement about this. It is something that becomes an issue at almost every ball. „Particularly young ball guests are ill-informed“, says Harald Willenig from the Rudolfina Redoute.

„Better overdressed than underdressed“ Vivienne Westwood, British fashion designer

gant New York Country Club in Tuxedo Park, whence it got its American name “tuxedo”. These new jackets soon reached England and were worn in smoking rooms, for instance in English clubs, to protect the dress jacket from the strong tobacco fumes (in German the tuxedo is known as a “smoking”). The Stresemann (morning coat) is named after the German Reich Foreign Minister Gustav Stresemann. He had had enough of exchanging his suit for a morning suit everytime he went from his office to the Reichstag and thus devised this symbiosis of business and morning suit. Dress codes are “dressing aids” and appear on every proper invitation – you just need to know how to decipher them. Furthermore, observing dress codes makes for a certain atmosphere that gives an event its special flair.

But also many a celebrity has problems with the right dress code, as Eveline Gaderer from the Concordia Ball knows only too well: „What do you do when a guest of honour arrives in a trouser suit or a short dress? We have all experienced these situations at some point“. And the so-called VIPs have the responsibility of being these huge role models. If they don’t properly follow the dress code and are later depicted in all gazettes they unwittingly communicate wrong dress regulations. „Information is the vital point – it has to happen before hand and not just on the door“, ”, declares Susanne Schöner, organiser of the Lawyers’ Ball. Especially the many international guests have difficulties knowing and following the correct dress code for a night at a Viennese Ball. Dresscode • 023

A c o r r e c t ly t r a n s l at e d d r e ss c o d e is a matt e r o f c Those who attend formal evening events for business reasons need to own at least one high quality evening suit and/or a tuxedo, or a cocktail and long evening dress respectively. Clever styling enables you to vary your look so that you can by all means wear the same dress more than once without it being noticed. Bespoke clothing, says tailor Michael Teuschler, pays off if your figure, rank or professional position require it. Otherwise semi-couture and off-the-rack items, varying in quality and price, are available. As you should look your best at festive occasions it is important to wear top of the range and perfectly fitting gear. In principle, more or less the same rules apply to the workmanship and quality of evening suits or tuxedos as to business suits. It is also imperative that evening gowns be of good quality, as cheap gowns usually also look cheap. Experts passionately argue over the exact dress code for occasion wear, for there is no other form of clothing that differentiates so much between “old-school” and “practised tradition”. At his wedding to crown princess Victoria of Sweden, Daniel Westling wore a tailcoat in the daytime, although this attire may normally only be worn after nightfall – a royal faux pas or perhaps a new dress code? There are also various opinions about the right colour of pocket handkerchiefs and whether these may be omitted generally. Rudolf Niedersüß, proprietor of the tradition-steeped gentlemen’s outfitter Knize, is one of the liberals in this matter. If you don’t want to appear in a historic costume at some point, you should be open to innovations. As long as it suits the wearer’s personality, colourful combinations of cummerbund and bow tie when wearing a tuxedo are perfectly legitimate – even if it’s blue or pink. When it comes to ladies’ wear the right dress code is even more complicated. How outrageous is a style allowed to be, how low cut? The right choice of dress is a challenge in every case. Astonishingly enough, the rigid rules for occasion wear allow a great range of variants – albeit just for the details. For instance with a tuxedo you have the choice between an upward and a shawl collar, and either a cummerbund or a waistcoat. 024 • Dresscode

The meaning of dress codes

c o u rt e s y T o t h e h o st With a tailcoat you can wear a shirt with either a stand-up collar or a wing collar. There are even more choices to be made when it comes to evening gowns. Almost endless décolleté variants, colours, materials, cuts and styles of evening dresses and gowns not only allow for individuality, but they can also be chosen to fit the body silhouette perfectly, says Austrian designer Birgit Indra. Elegant stoles, boleros, maybe a pair of evening gloves, stylish jewellery and an evening bag complete the look. Stockings – which should always be worn, according to the classic dress code - are equally important, as are evening shoes with closed toes. For getting to the ball in cold weather, a floor-length cape is the most elegant solution. The cuts of tuxedos and tailcoats are usually based on the English style, but the modern, Italian version is also allowed. However, for formal occasions any styling fantasies should be kept to a minimum, for it is only too easy for colourful extravaganzas and exotic patterns to look contrived and embarrassing, instead of fashionable and innovative. Shoes should always be black, elegant and – except when worn with an evening suit – be made of patent leather. A white silk scarf, black top hat with a tailcoat or morning suit, a white dress handkerchief and – except if worn with an evening suit – white kid gloves guarantee a perfect appearance. The silk scarf, which can be worn with a tailcoat, tuxedo or morning suit, is taken off together with the coat or cape and is never worn with the actual evening wear. Black knee highs, ideally made of fine silk, go with all styles, simple socks, however, are an absolute no-go when it comes to evening wear.

„Knowing about dress codes is hugely significant. Especially young ball guests have gaps in their education“ Mag. Harald Willenig, Rudolfina Redoute

Spats, which are worn with cutaways, and tailcoats to provide protection from dirt and cold on the way to the ball and are handed in at the cloakroom, are a curiosity from bygone days. They are usually made of sturdy, white cotton. Nowadays, however, they are hardly used, but it wouldn’t be a faux pas to wear them. Occasion wear, evening wear, formal, semi formal, cocktail dress – if the desired type of attire isn’t expressly stated on the invitation there is so much room for interpretation that, without consulting the host, blunder is almost unavoidable. Dresscode • 025

d r ess c o d es o n in v itati o ns d o n ’ t alway s s h e d li g h t o n t h e c o rr e c t c h o i c e o f c l ot h in g

Klassische Eröffnung der Fête Impériale durch das Jungdamen- und Jungherrenkomitee der Tanzschule Elmayer

The sparse books of reference, which sometimes suggest a tailcoat or tuxedo for formal as well as semi formal events, are not very helpful. In other styling guides you may be told to wear a business or leisure suit. Another frequent paradox: while the desired dress code is exactly stated on the invitation, it is already clear beforehand that it will be igno-

red. Here good advice is paramount. At private functions the host’s choice of attire can be used an orientation, otherwise one has to find a happy medium or conform to the requested dress code. If possible you should check with the organiser when you are in any doubt as to the dress regulations. Otherwise just find a happy medium or rely on your own intuition. l

„Elegance is not to strike one’s eye, but to linger in the memory“ GIORGIO ARMANI, Designer

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i n t e r v i e w • T HE F A S H I O N T R E N D S O F T HE 2 0 1 2 B A L L S E A

DRESSCODE spoke with Christine Rührlinger, manager of Hänsel & Gretel and harry+sally, about the colours, materials and accessories of the ball season.

Rührlinger: Black is still a classic and very popular for ball gowns and evening wear, but colours are getting more intense and stronger at the moment. Autumn colours, such as warm oranges or all shades of brown, are popular. There is a particular trend towards “berry colours” like blackberry, purple and lilac, but also strong blues like aqua and turquoise. And what about materials? Rührlinger: Big gowns of rustling taffetas, flowing materials and figure-hugging cuts are en vogue. A touch of extravagance coupled with a portion of sex appeal is what it’s all about. Ladies like to show a bit of cleavage in the evening, but also a bare back can be very appealing. Form-fitting dresses with corsage tops are also very popular. What accessories are indispensible for a successful night at the ball? Rührlinger: Swarovski crystals on elegant gowns or accessories like bags and head dresses, also known as fascinators or head pieces, are the trend. These combs decorated with feathers, blooms or tulle and materials 028 • Dresscode

to match the dress are particularly “in” this season and shouldn’t be missing at a night at the ball. Very important for the perfect entrance: the appropriate shoe with matching bag – ideally, shoes and bags are covered with the material of the dress or dyed to match the dress. Fur capes also seem to be very popular again this season. Rührlinger: A fur cape is an absolute must this year – whether it’s a real mink or a good faux fur is no matter. Not only does it keep your shoulders warm, but it perfectly completes any ball outfit. And what about the more traditional and constant dress code for gentlemen? Rührlinger: At a ball the gentlemen naturally wear the classic tuxedo or tailcoat. In the meantime there are more fashionable variants of the tuxedo, cut slightly shorter and more tailored, and dress trousers without the side stripe, suitable for fashion-conscious gentlemen with a penchant for the Italian style. A black bow tie and Cummerbund (the white tie is to be worn exclusively with a tailcoat – though the colour of the tie and cummerbund can be chosen to match the lady’s dress) are a must-have when wearing a tuxedo – if you can tie your own Barathea-silk bow tie, then that is the cherry on the cake! Thank you for the interview! l

Foto: Karin Lohberger Photograph

You are among the biggest providers of elegant evening and occasion wear in Austria. What fashion trends can be expected in the 2012 ball season? Are there any colours that are particularly popular this season?

INTERVIEW SON

Dresscode • 029

The meaning of dress codes Interview

Dress codes – a balancing act? The longstanding organiser of the Lawyer’s Ball, Mag. Susanne Schöner, talks about dress codes in practice with editor in chief Irmi Schüch-Schamburek.

What does the dress code actually say about the ball guest? Schöner: Of course you can’t really evaluate that. If someone sticks to a predefined dress code it shows a certain respect for the host and other guests. When someone doesn’t conform to the rules it can have several reasons: on the one hand he might not be aware of the correct dress code at all, on the other hand he may not have the necessary financial means to buy the right clothing or it may be conscious provocation – that also happens every now and again.

vation of dress code is already quite widely spread and is mostly accepted. What is the difference between a short evening dress and a cocktail dress? Schöner: As opposed to the cocktail dress, a short evening dress is a “dance dress” and always has a full, swinging skirt. Also it is usually a little more elaborate and luxurious than a cocktail dress. What is the exact difference between simple evening dress and a full-blown ball gown?

“Those who keep to the given dress code show respect towards their host.“ MAG. SUSANNE SCHÖNER, Lawyer’s Ball

Are you allowed to wear the same ball gown for several years? Schöner: most female ball guests can definitely wear the same dress for several years – especially as there is always the option of updating it once in a while with minor alterations. In certain professional positions, however, it can be a strategic move to change your ball gown more frequently. Fashion “excursions” like pink cummerbunds, bow ties or sandals (when worn by women) – faux pas or breath of fresh air? Schöner: The colourful details of men’s wear are not very elegant – precisely because they are colourful – and are mostly inappropriate. Wearing sandals with ball gowns as an inno030 • Dresscode

Schöner: According to the old-school dress code, the main difference is that a simple evening dress shows less cleavage, while a ball dress will have a deep décolleté. But the boundaries between simple, long evening dresses and simple and full ball gowns are less fixed nowadays. Why is keeping to the dress code important for you as a ball organiser? Schöner: First and foremost balls should bring joy, the joy of dancing and communicating. The right dress code is a good basis for celebrating this festive mood and emphasising it with a beautiful location and festive appearance. l

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i n t e r v i e w • T R A D I T I O N S A N D D R E S S CODE AT T HE W I E N E R

DRESSCODE talks with OMR Dr. Friedrich Fuchs, who has been responsible for the traditional Wiener Ärzteball at the Hofburg Vienna for over 30 years.

You have been the organiser of the Wiener Ärzteball for more than thirty years. What significance does the Viennese ball season have for you after so many years? Dr. Fuchs: First and foremost the Viennese ball season is very important for Viennese society and is also a cultural heritage. But also the economic factor plays an important part. Going back to Johann Strauß Senior, Vienna has always known how to display its

mainly responsible for the ball. That probably makes me one of the longest serving “ball fathers” ever. During your years as an organiser you must have dealt with all sorts of challenges. Is there a situation that is particularly memorable for you? Dr. Fuchs: The only real vexation was having to cancel the event twenty years ago. In 1991,

“As an elegant and traditional ball, the Wiener Ärzteball is part of the intangible cultural heritage of UNESCO.“ potential as far as dance and music are concerned. Not just in balls but also in costume balls. All of this is rooted in Vienna. For me the Viennese balls are an integral part of the carnival.

because of the Gulf War, not only the Opera Ball – a state ball – but also a whole range of other balls were cancelled. The Ärzteball was officially cancelled without prior consultation with us.

The Wiener Ärzteball has a long history, in 2012 it will be held for the 62nd time. What were your first years as its organiser like? Dr. Fuchs: Already as a young doctor I was an active member of the ball committee and was able to contribute a lot to the event over the past decades. Even in my 74th year I am

What is the Ärzteball most famous for? Dr. Fuchs: It is an elegant, traditional ball with international guests, beautiful flower decorations and a varied musical programme. In 2010 UNESCO named several Viennese balls as intangible cultural heritage. The Wiener Ärzteball is one of them.

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Foto: ballguide

Dr. Friedrich Fuchs, Wiener Ärzteball

INTERVIEW ÄRZTEBALL

Dresscode • 033

i n t e r v i e w • T R A D I T I O N S A N D D R E S S CODE AT T HE W I E N E R

Formerly, balls were mostly frequented by members of particular professions. The Wiener Ärzteball, as the name says, is a big convention of medical professionals. How would you describe the clientele of your ball these days? Dr. Fuchs: We are a traditional Viennese ball which has long outgrown the tight “shoes” of a ball exclusively for a particular professional group. We just have many guests who enjoy coming to us, no matter what profession – officers of the Armed Forces, lawyers and also students. We have definitely crossed the boundaries of our profession. Of course the medics are our basis, it is and will remain a doctors’ ball. We are delighted to welcome many doctors from the whole of Austria and also abroad to the Wiener Hofburg. How would you describe the atmosphere at your ball? Dr. Fuchs: The atmosphere is very pleasurable. There is not just small talk, and an ele-

ne and invite them to the next Ärzteball. The last waltz and the traditional “Brüderlein Fein” bring the ball to an end. Are there social and cultural influences that could also change the order of events of a classic ball? Dr. Fuchs: In the essential elements I can’t imagine any changes. The opening has its traditional procedures, the midnight show is a permanent feature and the guests are always so delighted with the quadrille that that will also definitely remain an indispensible component. Does holding on to the good traditions also apply to the clothing, the dress codes? Dr. Fuchs: Yes, very much so. There is no need to change anything here either. One can’t relinquish suitable dress codes in the Wiener Hofburg. You attend a ball suitably attired. Our rules: long evening dresses for the ladies - also national costumes are acceptable, as

“We don’t want to prohibit fashion, but we still want to maintain the character of a traditional ball.“ vated, yet casual mood fills the place. The guests look forward to the varied programme and the midnight specials. A feature of our ball is that we don’t hold the quadrille until 3 am, which always makes for a full ball room. The quadrille with five long double columns is definitely a highlight for every guest. Of course the dancing then continues into the small hours. At 5 am I always thank everyo034 • Dresscode

long as they are long and festive. But short dirndls simply aren’t suitable. For the gentlemen it’s tuxedos, tailcoats or gala uniforms, whereby Scottish kilts are accepted as uniform. Dark suits were only accepted in the early years, when the ball was still held at the Konzerthaus. Since the ball has been held at the Hofburg the dress code has remained unchanged.

Foto ballguide

OMR Dr. Friedrich Fuchs, Wiener Ärzteball

INTERVIEW ÄRZTEBALL

OMR Dr. Friedrich Fuchs with Nina Chalupsky, who has had a lock on the organisational aspects of the Wiener Ärzteball since four years.

Ladies often have varying views on what the correct length of an evening dress should be. What do they have to consider to make sure to get it right? Dr. Fuchs: A long evening dress is either floor or at least ankle length. Therefore a 3/4 length dress or a cocktail dress is unsuitable. What is your view on asymmetrically tailored ball gowns? Dr. Fuchs: We don’t want to prohibit fashion, but we still want to maintain the character of a traditional ball. Strictly speaking this means that even an asymmetrical dress must be at least partly floor length.

Have you noticed peculiarities in the dress codes of your guests in the past? For instance: has a doctor ever appeared at the ball dressed in white? Dr. Fuchs: No, that never happened. We also never had any problems with the ladies and gentlemen who open our balls – tailcoats at the front, gentlemen in tuxedos at the back. This rule is also accepted by the younger members of the opening committee. Thank you for the interview! For more information about the Wiener Ärzteball go to www.aerzteball.at l Dresscode • 035

A n e x pe r t d i s c u ss i o n ab o u t t h e h o u rs b e f o r e an d Interview

TIPS for a thrilling ball night DRESSCODE editor in chief Irmie Schüch-Schamburek talks to KR Maximilian K. Platzer, longstanding organiser of the Viennese Kaffeesieder Ball (Ball of café proprietors) and Berndt Querfeld, chairmain of the club of Viennese café proprietors.

How do you kick off an evening that will also include a visit to a ball? Platzer: Balls usually don’t start until later in the evening – which gives you the possibility of appropriately kicking off the evening before hand. Here you need to distinguish bet-

nice and very popular way of starting the evening is to go for a meal before the ball. A ball will not usually offer a great range of culinary options. It is a quirky tradition at Viennese balls to primarily serve Frankfurters. As most ball guests don’t want to go back and forth in

“It is a quirky tradition at Viennese balls to primarily serve Frankfurters“ ween several groups of persons. While guests of honour will arrive at the ball a little earlier, some ball guests like to meet privately for a cocktail before heading to the ball together. A 036 • Dresscode

a taxi, they are reliant on locations in close proximity to the ball. These are often booked out months in advance or can’t offer a suitable ambience. This often means that you arri-

Foto: franz pflügl

KR Maximilian K. Platzer, Ball of the Viennese Kaffeesieder

INTERVIEW aft e r a c lassi c Vi e nn e s e ball

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 037

A f t e r t he b a l l o n e lik e s t o m e e t f o r a h e art y br e a ve later in the evening and miss the opening of the ball. For me personally, this would be of the question, as the opening is an essential feature of any ball. Mr Querfeld, you have a special offer for those who wish to start the evening in style. Querfeld: We offer a free limousine service that includes pick-up and transfer from Café Landtmann to all balls in the Hofburg, Konzerthaus, Musikverein and, of course, the highlight of the season, the Vienna Opera Ball. Our wintergarden is reserved for ball guests, incidentally. This makes for a par-

Platzer: There are also many other Viennese cafés that are very popular after balls. For instance the Café Schwarzenberg, Café Regina, Café Drechsler, the Gräfin am Naschmarkt or, after the Philharmonic Ball, the Café Imperial. In bygone days more shady cafés were also popular, such as the legendary “Spatz” in the Himmelpfortgasse. It had a certain charm then and was part of the “contrasting programme” of a night at the ball. In the meantime, however, this tradition has become less popular. Probably partly because balls often take place during the week and many guests have to work the next day.

“Some Viennese coffee houses offer many extra services for ball guests in the ball season.“ Bernd Querfeld, chairman of the Club of Viennese café proprietors

But going to a coffee house after a ball also has a long tradition in Vienna. Querfeld: After the Kaffeesiederball (Ball of café proprietors), for instance, you traditionally go to the Café Landtmann – for many years now we have organised a special horsedrawn carriage shuttle for the transfer to the café. It’s a wonderful experience that also gives the ball itself a special touch.

What “after-ball-dishes” are particularly popular for rounding off a night at the ball? Platzer: The classic option is a strong goulash soup with beer. That sorts out your stomach. Alternatively, a Salonbeuscherl (a creamy ragout of veal’s lungs) is delicious – in any case, it must be something substantial. A classic continental or Viennese breakfast with coffee, jam, rolls and a fried egg is more the exception than the rule. Querfeld: Absolutely, although the goulash soup is definitely the number one for us. We have tried several dishes – but Beuschel, Schnitzel, Schinkenfleckerl (traditional pasta bake with ham and cheese), ham & eggs or a classic breakfast are not really in demand. l

Breakfasting after a ball in Vienna Cafe Landtmann, 1010 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 241 000 • Cafe Regina, 1090 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 404 460 Gräfin vom Naschmarkt, 1060 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 586 33 89 • Cafe Schwarzenberg, 1010 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 512 89 98 Cafe Drechsler, 1060 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 581 20 44 • Cafe Imperial, 1010 Wien, T: +43 (0) 1 501 100 038 • Dresscode

Foto: franz pflügl

ticularly elegant ambience to go with glamorous ball gowns, tailcoats or tuxedos. Of course, part of the experience is a delicious ball menu, not too heavy, so the ladies aren’t literally “bursting at the seams”, but perfectly suitable as “proper fuel” for a long night at the ball.

INTERVIEW kfast at a Vi e nn e s e c o ff e e h o u s e

Dresscode • 039

Dress codes at a glance

To avoid “dancing to a different tune” stylistically, certain dress codes and knowing how to decipher them are helpful – more to the point, they are essential! Ball

Date

Kaiserball

FR, 31. 12. 11 Hofbu

Blumenball

FR, 13. 01. 12 Wiener

Un Ballo in Maschera

FR, 13. 01. 12

ZuckerBäckerball

FR, 13. 01. 12 Hofbu

WU Ball

SA, 14. 01. 12 Hofbu

Ball der Alt-Schotten

SA, 14. 01. 12

Palais A

Ball der Wiener Philharmoniker DO, 19. 01. 12 Wiener Mu Ball der Offiziere

FR, 20. 01. 12 Hofbu

Ball der Pharmacie

SA, 21. 01. 12 Hofbu

Techniker-Cercle

SA, 21. 01. 12 Wiener Mu

TU Ball DO, 26. 01. 12 Hofbu Ball der Technik Graz 2012

FR, 27. 01. 12 Cong

Wiener Ärzteball

SA, 28. 01. 12 Hofbu

Opernredoute Graz

SA, 28. 01. 12 Grazer Op

Jägerball

MO, 30. 01. 12 Hofbu

BokuBall

FR, 03. 02. 12 Hofbu

Oberlandlerball

SA, 04. 02. 12 Cong

Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder

FR, 10. 02. 12 Hofbu

Wiener Opernball DO, 16. 02. 12 Wiener St Hofburg-Ball der Wr. Wirtschaft

SA, 17. 02. 12 Hofbu

BonbonBall

FR, 17. 02. 12 Wiener Kon

Juristenball

SA, 18. 02. 12 Hofbu

Rudolfina Redoute

MO, 20. 02. 12 Hofbu

Elmayer-Kränzchen DI, 21. 02. 12 Hofbu Concordia Ball

FR, 15. 06. 12 Wiener

Fête Impériale

FR, 29. 06. 12

Spanische Hofr

Dress codes at a glance Ladies‘ dress code

Auersperg

urg Vienna

Auersperg

MASK

e tum os lc na tio na ve sti rm Fe ifo un la

r Rathaus

it su

rk Da

s res

urg Vienna

do xe Tu

t oa ilc Ta e tum os lc na tio na ve s sti Fe res il d kta

c Co

d ing en ev ng Lo

n ow ll g

Venue

Men’s dress code

usikverein

urg Vienna

usikverein

urg Vienna

gress Graz

urg Vienna

pernhaus

urg Vienna

National Costume

Traditional Suit

urg Vienna

gress Graz

urg Vienna

taatsoper

urg Vienna

nzerthaus

urg Vienna

r Rathaus

reitschule

MASK

Dresscode • 041

highlights OF THE BALLSEASON

Let the special flair of Austrian ball culture enchant you. DRESSCODE presents some of the most beautiful balls of the season 2012 – from the Wiener ZuckerBäckerball to the Grazer Opernredoute. 042 • Dresscode

– Dresscode • 043

111th wiener zuckerbäckerball

90th WIENER BLUMENBALL

fter their successful Hofburg-premiere last year, the Viennese confectioners and bakers invite you to their entertaining and sweet ball in the beautiful location on Heldenplatz for the second time already. “ZuckerBäckerball-ambassador” Birgit Sarata is already waxing lyrical long before the ball even takes place: “Not only do the Viennese confectioners supply 3.000 gateaux for games and raffles, but also show their impressive talent at the Zuckerbäcker Award and in a show bakehouse.” These innumerable gateaux, numerous prize draws and the high art of confectionary combined with the best dancing make this ball so unique.

n January 13 the Viennese municipal gardeners celebrate the 90th anniversary of their traditional ball at the Wiener Rathaus, which is painstakingly transformed into a spring oasis with over 100.000 blossoms. With its diverse programme of music the Wiener Blumenball offers finest entertainment to all lovers of dance. With the traditional waltz tunes, a big band, old Viennese songs and the Blumenball-Disco you can delight in dancing into the small hours. The midnight quadrille is a fixture which is repeated again at 2 am. The “living ladies’ gift” is always in great demand. This year all ladies can look forward to not one, but two surprises!

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • dark suit • tuxedo

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • dark suit • tuxedo • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

111th wiener zuckerbäckerball

90th Wiener Blumenball

date: FRIDAY, 13 JANUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.zuckerbaeckerball.com

DATE: FRIDAY, 13 JANUARY 2012 VENUE: wiener rathaus internet: www.wiens-gartenverein.com

044 • Dresscode

Gl채nzend Tel. 0810 25 80 25 www.pierre-lang.com

durch die

Nacht

FREITAG 13. JÄNNER 2012 HOFBURG WIEN EINGANG HELDENPLATZ

MUSIKALISCHE UNTERHALTUNG MIT DEM BALLORCHESTER STEUBL • SKYLINE BIGBAND • INSIDE OUT • DISCOFIEBER MIT DJ FLO • KARIBIK LOUNGE • TOMBOLA • MITTERNACHTSQUADRILLE

Kartenvorverkauf: ¤ 80,- inkl. Ust. | Abendkassa: ¤ 85,- inkl. Ust. | Jugendliche: ¤ 40,- inkl. Ust. | Einlass: 20.00 Uhr | Eröffnung: 21.00 Uhr | Vorverkauf, Tisch- und Logenreservierung: BgA der Wiener Lebensmittelinnung, Florianigasse 13, 1080 Wien, Tel. 01/405 53 96 Onlinebestellung: www.zuckerbaeckerball.com

wu ball 2012

ball der wiener philharmoniker

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

wu ball 2012

ball der WIENER philharmoniker

date: SATURDAY, 14 JANUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.wuball.at

date: THURSDAY, 19 JANUARY 2012 venue: wiener musikverein internet: www.wienerphilharmoniker.at

he traditional yet youthful ball of the Vienna University of Economics and Business isn’t just an entertaining start into the new year for the students, but for many ball and dance fanatics it is also the kick-start to the classic Viennese ball season. Among the over 4.500 guests you will find students and young graduates as well as many economists, industrialists and politicians whose careers often started off at the University of Economics and Business. The festive location at the Hofburg is ideal for making new contacts or cultivating old ones. The motto “WU International” underlines the cosmopolitan character of this popular ball.

his ball is considered one of the most beautiful and exclusive in Austria. On 19 January the Vienna Philharmonics invite you in style to the Wiener Musikverein. Already the entrance of the guests of honour at the opening ceremony leaves no doubt as to the noblesse of the night: the “who’s who” of Vienna’s high society convenes every year in the magnificent Wiener Musikverein. The VIP guests in their elegant tailcoats and tuxedos and glamorous gowns make this evening the ball of balls, not just for insiders. Also the musical programme is of the highest quality, as it is also provided by the hosts themselves.

Dresscode • 047

Tu Ball Wien

ball der offiziere 2012

n the 20th of January the officers of the Austrian Armed Forces whisk away their guests into an unforgettable world of splendour and harmony. Under the motto “Gold and Silver” and with the newly revived disco, this ball offers a social spectrum in which all guests can feel comfortable. Especially young people are the focus at this ball highlight. In addition to its varied programme of events in the splendid rooms of the Wiener Hofburg, this ball also boasts one of the most beautiful dress codes. For the golden insignia of the officers’ uniforms from all over the world, silver medals and elegant ball gowns guarantee elegance, lightheartedness and joie de vivre.

hat began as a small party for technicians almost 200 years ago is now one of the most popular and youthful balls in Vienna. Known for its elaborately choreographed opening, the ball of Vienna’s University of Technology is not only one of Vienna’s oldest balls but one of the social highlights of the Viennese carnival season. Under the motto “The TU dances and celebrates with friends” numerous guests from academia from home and abroad come together to enjoy an entertaining evening at the Hofburg. To ensure complete and almost unbounded dance pleasure there will be no show dance, except, of course, the midnight quadrille!

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress • gala uniform (no short skirts)

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • black suit with bow tie • tuxedo • tailcoat

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

ball der offiziere 2012

tu ball

date: FRIDAY, 20 JANUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.ballderoffiziere.at

date: donnerstag, 26. jänner 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.tu-ball.at

048 • Dresscode

62nd wiener ärzteball

ball der technik graz 2012

ith its stylish, yet modern ball in the elegant ambience of the Congress Graz, the Graz University of Technology follows up its great jubilee year (200 years TU Graz) 2011. Since the year dot the classic event is one of the society highlights of the Styrian ball season and is considered one of the best places to come into contact with policymakers from the political, economic and academic worlds. The casual atmosphere also offers young students the perfect opportunity for their first attempts at “hightech-networking”. For the new TU rector Harald Kainz the evening will also be a premiere: it will be his first time to open the ball with an official speech.

raditionally, the last Saturday in January is dedicated to dancing doctors and all who wish to dance with them. Therefore there is no need to worry about sprained ankles or other ailments here, because of the 4.000 guests about half are medical professionals. For one evening the historic rooms of the Wiener Hofburg glitter and gleam for Vienna’s doctors and numerous national and international guests. This balls particular pride and joy are the many elegant gowns which give this event its special flair, as well as the numerous young guests for whom the doctors’ ball has been a regular fixture for years.

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress • cocktail dress • festive national costume

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • black suit • tuxedo • tailcoat • festive national costume

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

ball der technik graz 2012

62nd wiener ärzteball

date: fRIDAY, 27 JANUARY 2012 venue: congress graz internet: www.balldertechnik.at

date: SATURDAY, 28 JANUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.aerzteball.at

050 • Dresscode

www.balldertechnik.at

ball der technik freitag 27.01.12 grazer congress beginn: 21:00 uhr einlass: 19:45 uhr mobility technik begeistert

opernredoute graz

55th ball der wiener kaffeesieder

hen all ladies come in elegant ball gowns and the gentlemen arrive in tuxedos, tailcoats or gala uniforms, it always is a special occasion. The Opernredoute Graz is one of these extraordinary events that actually begins with the process of implementing the dress code, hours before the actual opening. As ever, the society highlight of the Styrian ball season also boasts an impressive programme in 2012: after the enchanting opening, performed by the (children’s) ballet of the Opera House Graz, and the entrance of the debutantes, the Grammophoniker and the Sigi Feigl Orchester alternately provide best musical entertainment on the dance floor.

nder the motto „Wiener Melange“, the Viennese café proprietors invite you to their sumptuous and glamorous ball at the Wiener Hofburg. “This year our guests can look forward to an array of surprises and amusements, coupled with bourgeois ball traditions of the highest level”, says ball organiser KR Maximilian K. Platzer about this year’s Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder. The motto “Wiener Melange” is meant as a synonym for the unique blend of diversity, differences and new experiences, accompanied by a shot of joie de vivre, which characterises the Viennese café owners and their employees. In the year of Klimt, 2012, the 55th Ball der Wiener Kaffeesieder promises to be a colourful and unique event.

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

opernredoute graz

55th ball der wiener kaffeesieder

date: SATURDAY; 28 JANUARY 2012 venue: oper graz internet: www.opernredoute.com

date: samstag, 11. februar 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.kaffeesiederball.at

052 • Dresscode

Die Top B채lle in Graz AkAdemikerbAll, 21.01.2012 www.akademikerball.at

Genuss ball, 10.02.2012 www.genussball.at

bAll der Technik, 27.01.2012 www.balldertechnik.at

Il ballo dI casanova, 11.02.2012 www.ballo-casanova.at

OpernredOuTe, 28.01.2012 www.opernredoute.com

bauernbundball, 17.02.2012 www.stbb.at

OberlAndlerbAll, 04.02.2012 www.oberlandler.at

TunTenball, 25.02.2012 www.tuntenball.at

Buchen Sie ihr hoTel unter www.graztourismus.at

hofburg-ball der wiener wirtschaft

juristen-ball 2012

hen the Wiener Wirtschaft invites its guests to enjoy good music and many a surprise in the splendid ambience of the Hofburg Vienna on 17 February, the former imperial residence becomes a meeting point for economics, politics and culture. This traditional ball is a highlight of the season, not only for Vienna’s entrepreneurs, their friends and affiliates. Also numerous international guests take the opportunity to discover the secrets and elegance of Viennese ball and dance traditions and network with the local entrepreneurs. First class ball orchestras and Jazz groups guarantee an unforgettable evening.

ach year the lawyers‘ union entertains its guests on the last Saturday of carnival, thus offering a welcome antidote to the prevalent rowdy hustle and bustle. The traditional classic of the Viennese ball season successfully bridges the gap between the classic and the modern. Not only with its location, which also includes the modern Dachfoyer of the Hofburg, overlooking the rooftops of Vienna. Not just the view of the magnificent cupola, but also the culinary offerings with wine and champagne tasting, oysters and cocktails, served to the sounds of Salsa, make the Dachfoyer a popular meeting place – an ideal ambience for casual networking.

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress • festive national costume

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown • long evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform • festive national costume

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

hofburg-ball der wr. wirtschaft

juristen-ball 2012

date: FRIDAY, 17 FEBRUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.hofburg-ball.at

date: SATURDAY, 18 FEBRUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.juristenball.at

054 • Dresscode

�udol�in� Re��ut� 2012

Faschingmontag,

20. Februar Wiener Hofburg

www.rudolfina.at

Elmayer Kränzchen 21. Februar 2012 Hofburg TANZSCHULE ELMAYER A-1010 Wien, Bräunerstraße 13 Tel.: 512 71 97 ab 15:00 Uhr ofﬁce@elmayer.at

rudolfina redoute

ach year on the Monday before Lent, the Hofburg is transformed into a mysterious and secretive ball room. The “quadrille of unmasking” at midnight throws light onto all secrets of the evening.

92nd elmayer-kränzchen

For at the last existing traditional masked ball in Vienna the dress code still stipulates: ladies are to wear masks. And the masked ladies rule the roost on the dance floor, for until midnight the motto is “ladies’ choice!” – after that both gentlemen and ladies may ask for a dance. This is only one of many traditions that make this event a special highlight of the Viennese ball calendar.

n Shrove Tuesday Vienna’s historic dance school Elmayer holds its traditional ball at the Hofburg. The largest committee of debutant(e)s opens this ball with over 200 couples at 6 pm (!). After six hours of ballroom delights the Elmayer-Kränzchen traditionally finishes at midnight on the dot. You can already look forward to the programme’s many highlights, for the opening with waltz formations, ballet and singing is not the only high point of the evening. As for the music, only the best is good enough – the Salon orchestra and big band of the Gardemusik will play in the ceremonial hall.

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • ball gown and mask • long evening dress and mask

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • long evening dress • short evening dress

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat • gala uniform

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • black suit with bow tie • tuxedo • gala uniform

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

rudolfina redoute

92nd elmayer-kränzchen

date: MONDAY, 20 FEBRUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: http://Redoute.rudolfina.at

date: TUESDAY, 21 FEBRUARY 2012 venue: hofburg vienna internet: www.elmayer.at/EK Dresscode • 057

115th concordia ball

n 15 June the press club Concordia invites you to Vienna’s oldest summer ball. This event with international flair is an insider’s tip for all fans of balls and dancing, who also want to experience a traditional Viennese ball outside the classic ball season. From the beginning the Concordia Ball has been a fixture of Viennese society life and is frequented by persons from the media as well as politicians, entrepreneurs and artists. The special element: you can also dance “under the stars” in the beautiful courtyards and arcades of the Wiener Rathaus. Hourly dance highlights and a varied musical programme offer the perfect setting for a night of dancing.

Fête impériale 2012

or the third time now the Spanish Riding School will shine in splendour as arguably the most extraordinary ball location in the country. For one night the oldest ballroom in Vienna is transformed into a breathtaking summer ball location. Both the winter riding school and the Imperial Stables, as well as the summer riding arena are transformed into ball rooms. The courtyard and pathways between the separate locations will become elegant strolling promenades with pavilions, stands and benches. Live music and cool DJs will provide the dance music. Many little details – from the music and the debutante’s headdresses to the seats made of bales of straw, as well as the integration of the horses – guarantee an imperial atmosphere.

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • long ball gown • gala uniform with floor length skirt

LADIES’ DRESSCODE • long evening gown

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • black tuxedo • black tailcoat • white dinner jacket • gala uniform

GENTLEMEN’S DRESSCODE • tuxedo • tailcoat

YOU CAN FIND PHOTOS OF THIS BALL HERE

115th concordia ball

fête impériale 2012

date: FRIDAY, 15 JUNE 2012 venue: wiener rathaus internet: www.concordiaball.at

date: FRIDAY, 29 JUNE 2012 venue: SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL Vienna internet: www.feteimperiale.at

058 • Dresscode

Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;

dress code

ladies dress codes The dress code for a ball allows ladies a lot of room for interpretation. However, some rules must be applied.

060 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 061

The ball gown Dress codes contain encrypted information – cracking this can be crucial to a successful ball appearance.

If the ladies’ dress code is not explicitly stated on the invitation, at least the men’s dress code will be given, which also provides information about what kind of dress is expected from the lady. For men “White tie” signifies tailcoats and for women full ball gowns, which differ from evening dresses in certain details.

Material & Colour An elegant occasion calls for exclusive materials. Shiny silks, such as satin or duchesse, crèpe marocain as an alternative, tulle or lace, adorned with pearls and glass beads provide the necessary elegance. Although black is often the colour of choice, other elegant hues – as long as they highlight the wearer’s complexion – are also suitable. The only exception is white, which is reserved for debutantes.

Hem length As with everything else, the first impression is paramount. An unsuitable outfit will soon be spotted by passing couples and the wearer is labelled ignorant. The only acceptable length for full ball gowns is floor-length.

062 • Dresscode

ball gown

Bodice Tight-fitting, figure-hugging corsages, partly enforced with whalebones or inlays, are the perfect partner for full, swinging skirts. Depending on the design the material is ruched or stretched and possibly embroidered. The décolleté should be suited to the wearer’s cleavage. The rule here is: less is often more – those who offer too much “insight” don’t convey much elegance! Not every woman can afford to go sleeveless. Young ladies’ bare shoulders may thrill everyone, but often short sleeves or ruffles that at least cover the shoulders, are appropriate.

Silhouette Simple and slim silhouettes are inappropriate in ball gowns – full, bouffant or ruched makes for the correct, sweeping shape. If possible, slim waists should be emphasised. A petite stature can be elongated with the help of flattering cuts – lateral flounces are to be avoided in this case. Corsages combined with full skirts make for an appealing overall image.

Skirt The skirt can be attached to the bodice in a straight or pleated fashion, from the hips downwards full skirts, flounces, ruffles or insets ensure a certain width. Tulle petticoats give necessary support, but beware: too much can be inappropriate and may seem more reminiscent of a historic costume than an elegant ball gown.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode • 063

ball gown

064 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

At high society events such as the Vienna Opera Ball, the full ball gown always has to be the first choice. Ladies like to appear in their favourite designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creations that were designed as unique pieces in the weeks approaching the event.

heli mayr photography

Atemberaubende Abendmode für jeden Anlass!

4020 Linz . Bürgerstraße 6 . 0732 711 821

www.harryundsally.at

long evening dress Ignoring dress codes on a ball invitation means risking being refused entry – or at least disapproving frowns of fellow ball guests.

Although the term “black tie” refers to the man’s outfit, at a ball it also clearly means long evening dresses for the ladies. If a lady should still appear in a short cocktail dress, she must at least expect irritated looks. Venues like the Hofburg Vienna require adequate clothing – and rightly so!

Material & colour Evening materials are characterised by a high-class visual effect. Elegant silks or velvet are suitable in every case, also lace, sequins or embroidery signifies the appropriate exclusivity. Black or emerald green are this season’s favourites. If your complexion allows it, more intensive hues such as red, magenta or purple are also en vogue. Beware: red attracts attention!

Hem length The hem length determines the degree of elegance: an evening dress, whether “full” or “simple”, definitely calls for a floor-length hem. If your partner is wearing a dark suit, an ankle-length hem is just about acceptable.

066 • Dresscode

Long evening dress

Bodice Depending on the dress code („full“ or „simple“ evening dress), the bodice can be designed more or less elaborately. Bustierdresses should always be based on a corsage, to ensure a good fit. Details like sequins or embroidery can draw in the beholder – in this case, however, jewellery should be kept to a minimum. Blouses or tops worn with long, simple skirts are no adequate alternative to an evening dress. Short sleeves, possibly made from a sheer material, can enhance shoulders and arms without making you feel too “covered up”.

Silhouette A long evening dress is characterised by its slender silhouette. The boundaries between the “full evening dress” and ball gown are vague. In this case a full, slightly flowing skirt and a somewhat more elaborate cut are absolutely allowed. Figure enhancing empire length variants are suited to dainty, petite ladies with a small bust. Ladies lacking a slim waist shouldn’t emphasise this area too much.

Skirt If you feel a slim cut is not enough, try some subtle Godet-pleats or bells under the hips for a touch of romance. Those with wider hips can disguise them with a slight a-line.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode • 067

068 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

Long evening dress

The long evening dress is acceptable at every ball. Elegant workmanship and exquisite materials make it the standard outfit of the ball season. For a classic night at the ball monochrome or embroidered materials should be the first choice.

Dress suit white for women For several years now female soldiers of the Austrian army have been permitted to wear a gala uniform – a perfect combination of modern elegance and military symbolism. “The dress suit, white, for women“ is the female equivalent to the men’s gala uniform. Colour and design of the evening dress and spencer jacket are subject to strict regulations that guarantee an elegant appearance. You can wear a “dress suit white for women” when the dress code stipulates ball gowns or long evening dresses. You can see the noble elegance of this outfit for yourself at the Officers’ Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

Material & colour The evening dress is a fixed component of the dress suit and is always made to measure. The colour is always black-blue and the cut is subtly elegant. The material – an elegant pure wool gabardine – flatters its wearer and excels with its particularly high quality finish.

Silhouette & skirt The cut of the evening dress is modest and very elegant. The bodice is slim, with a round neck and sleeveless. The swinging skirt is a little flared from the waist. Just like the ball gown and long evening dress: the hem must always be floor length.

070 • Dresscode

GALA UNIFORM for ladies

Awards & decorations The way of wearing insignia and awards, including the order in which decorations are worn, is also subject to specific rules. They can only be attached to the spencer jacket. Insignia are attached to the middle of the left sleeve, troupe emblems for members of the air force are placed on the right breast. Wearing sleeve badges is only permitted to officers of the military pasturing service and music officers.

Spencer jacket & Accessoires Like the dress, the spencer jacket is also made to measure, of cream coloured worsted material, and reaches to the waist. Skin-coloured tights and black pumps are obligatory. The evening bag is also black and can be made of patent leather. White gloves make for additional elegance and a proper ball cannot be imagined without them.

Illustriation by Hariet MĂźller Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 071

072 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

GALA UNIFORM for ladies

The gala uniform for female soldiers – also known as „dress suite, white, for women“ – is worn if the dress code stipulates ball gowns or long evening dresses. The best place to observe the elegance of this uniform is the Officers’ Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

the Cocktail dress An invitation to a cocktail party calls for a cocktail dress. However, it is only rarely an acceptable alternative to the long evening dress.

Unlike the elegant day dress, the cocktail dress is defined by evening materials and details, as it is – just like the eponymous drink – meant for use after 5 pm. The so-called “little black dress” is acceptable as a substitute, but should be jazzed up with evening jewellery.

Sleeves Sleeveless cocktail dresses are especially elegant but dresses with short, puffed or 3/4 sleeves are also appropriate. If you don’t wish to reveal your upper arms to the public, why not try a happy medium of sleeves made from sheer or lacy materials?

Hem length A cocktail dress can be of any length from mini and knee-length to mid-calf – but no longer. The correct hem length is largely dependant on the wearer’s age and the occasion. Beware: even if mini is “in”, don’t forget: the more elegant the evening, the longer the dress. The so-called “Chanel length” (just below the knee) is always appropriate, flatters any silhouette and is currently totally en vogue.

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cocktail dress

Bodice A cocktail dress can also be based on a corsage, if it is strapless. The neckline variants range from high- and boat-necked to plunging necklines. The neckline is ideally suited to details like sequins or embroidery and can be a beautiful eye catcher.

Silhouette From slim and a-line to petticoat-style cuts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; everything is possible. Depending on fashion and figure, the designs can be playful and the silhouette varied.

Skirt The pencil skirt is only an option up to a certain dress size â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for some figures a slightly flared skirt is more advantageous, as there is less emphasis on the hips. Some cuts call for a waistline that can be covered with a belt. A cocktail dress is never a two-piece.

Material & colour Elegant materials, as they are used for evening dresses, provide the necessary evening touch. Sequins are also allowed. As to colour, there are no limits: muted colours are more respectable, bold colours are naturally more conspicuous

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 075

COCKTAIL dress

076 • Dresscode

Cocktail dresses are ideal for “youthful” balls. This outfit is considered the most relaxed dress code of the ball season and can be worn at the Blumenball or the Zuckerbäcker Ball. Beware: at most balls at the Hofburg the cocktail dress is not acceptable!

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festive national costume National costumes are en vogue: Jägerball (Hunter’s Ball) and Trachtenpärchenball require festive dirndls of silk and velvet. Everyday dirndls are no suitable alternative.

Being dressed for the occasion doesn’t just please all those present, but also lifts the wearer’s spirits. Furthermore, you communicate a certain respect of your host’s wishes. Original national costumes are always suitable, for instance at the Jägerball. However, only the Trachtenpärchenball adheres to the motto „the wackier the better“!

Material & coulor Festive national costumes must be made of silk and velvet. The large variety of costumes results from the variety of materials, like taffeta, jacquard, brocade, striped or checked, silk or mixed fibres (wool-silk), combined with high-quality embroidery and elegant details. The colours are only predefined for original national costumes, modern variants are possible, as long as they are festive and suited to evening wear.

Hem length Even if a dirndl isn’t necessarily subject to fashion, the hem length does vary according to current trends. While ankle length was popular in the last years, knee length came back on the scene in 2010 – however, this is just permitted at very few balls, such as the Trachtenpärchenball. The rule of thumb applies to national costumes too: the longer the dress, the more elegant it is – floor length, or at least ankle length are best for exclusive occasions.

078 • Dresscode

festive national costume

Bodice Ruffles, embroidery and braids can transform a simple dirndl into a rare jewel. Lacing through ornate hooks or elegant buttons adds a festive touch. The bodice must be tight-fitting, whalebones afford the necessary support.

Silhouette A dirndl is considered one of the most feminine attires. Ample necklines, tucked-in waists and swaying smocks are typical and unavoidable. The shoulders can be further emphasised by puffed dirndl blouse sleeves. Puffed sleeves and 3/4 mutton sleeves are equally popular. If the sleeves are made of the same material as the dirndl, the correct term is „Bürgerkleid“.

Skirt The skirt is usually gathered at the waist with hand sewn pleats. Enforced seams afford the necessary support; the so-called “Knittelblech” (broad inward trimming, often in a contrasting colour) further reinforces the skirt. Silk aprons are part of every festive national costume.

Illustriation von Marianne Zahel Dresscode • 079

festive national costume

080 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

Festive national costumes are always original costumes the colours of whichare predefined by their origin. Fashion costumes are not included in this dress code. Balls where national costume is obligatory, such as the JĂ¤ger- or Oberlandlerball, are particularly attractive.

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T H E B A LL DR E S S – S U M M E R D

n order to appear at a ball correctly attired, the first question that needs answering is, what kind of ball it is that you are going to. Because you should specifically chose your individual outfit to suit the ball in question.

A traditional ball at the Hofburg calls for a different outfit to your kids’ high school graduation ball. To automatically reach for any long evening dress or a full ball gown is just as wrong as ignoring the question of “what to wear where” in the first place. If the ball invitation stipulates “festive clothing“ or “festive evening dress”, ladies shouldn’t wear full blown ball gowns to the event, but a long, elegant evening dress with a slim silhouette, made of quality materials such as silk, velvet or lace in muted colours. This also goes for summer balls, where more and more ladies opt for long summer dresses (out of ignorance?). A summer dress, no matter how beautiful, is never worn to a ball! It’s suitable for a garden party, for an elegant dinner “al fresco” or for a concert. By definition, summer dresses are items of clothing for women that usually reach from the shoulders to the knees – although meanwhile long ones are also available – short sleeved, sleeveless or off-the-shoulder. The necklines vary and can be high or low cut. Materials used include cotton, viscose, synthetic fibres or thin silks. In comparison, a ball gown is a long dress, usually with a tight bodice and a full skirt, either from the waist or hip. The more elaborate and voluminous the skirt, the more it becomes a “robe”. Often petticoats with several layers of tulle or hoop skirts are worn under the so-called

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D R E S S VE R S U S B A L L D R E S S full ball gowns, to give the skirt more volume. Dresses with a slim cut at the front are often worn with understated trains at the back to bring out the elegance of the outfit.

“Style, elegance, glitz and glamour are keywords for the full evening gown“ Patrizia Fürnkranz-Markus, guild master of the tailors’ guilde

Style, elegance, glitz and glamour – the keywords for the full ball gown! Naturally the materials are especially important. Particularly precious materials, mostly silks, and the workmanship of the tailor distinguish full ball gowns from simple evening dresses. Materials like satin, taffeta, velvet, sequins, lace or embroidery additionally emphasise the exclusivity of an outfit. Accessories such as shoes, hair pieces and bags should be chosen to suit the dress as well as the occasion, for they have a huge influence on the “whole package” and clearly show the significant difference between a long summer dress and a ball gown. l

r m o d e m a c h e r. a t

Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;

Accessories

beautiful eye catcher Not until accessories like evening bags, shoes, jewellery and makeup are perfectly coordinated does a ball gown really come into its own.

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Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 085

E l eme n t s o f at t i r e – a c c e ss o ri e s a d d t h e finis h in g

The Bag An evening bag should be “small but mighty” and naturally match the ball or evening dress. Sequins, embroidery, satin or metal – as long as it glitters, you’re on the right track. Shapes range from pouches over small strappy bags to the classic clutch – the latter being particularly trendy, but, as it has no shoulder strap, always has to be carried in the hand.

Shoes An elegant heel is more or less a “must“ – ballerinas are not usually worn and only allowed if they are very “eveningy”. According to the correct dress code – but in marked contrast to popular belief – a ball shoe must be closed at the toes but can be open at the heel. In practice, however, more comfortable and airy sandals are very popular. Patent leather, satin or rhinestones are to be given preference, straps give the necessary support. Those who wish to be prepared for all eventualities will chose professional dancing shoes.

Gloves Evening gloves are most often made of satin or lace. An off-the-shoulder ball gown calls for long, shiny ball gloves, etiher in black or some other colour matching but contrasting the dress. They should be tight fitting, which is no longer a problem in this day and age of lycra, and must at least reach up to the elbows.

086 • Dresscode

Ladies‘ Accessories t o u c h e s t o y o u r ball o u tfit

Covering up Most balls take place in the winter. To avoid freezing on the way there, or at open air events in the summer, a warm wrap is indispensible. However, stoles are also great as stylish accessories or for hiding little flaws of the cleavage or upper arms. They can be made of evening materials or fur and can be elaborately decorated.

Foto : ca rt i e r , ot to, f e r r e , a r m a n i , f e r raga m o, u n i v e rsa l

Jewellery Adorning jewels on the neck, ears, arms and fingers are always beautiful and noble eye catchers. It should either be genuine evening jewellery or particularly luxuriant fashion jewellery. Old costume jewellery sets itself apart with special designs that would simply be too expensive if made from real gems. It doesn’t matter whether you wear diamonds, emeralds, semi-precious gems or Swarovski crystals – as long as it sparkles and suits the wearer!

The Watch Elegant attention to detail becomes apparent when it comes to the watch. According to the strict dress code rules only jewel-watches are allowed, preferably those with hidden faces that can’t be discerned as timepieces. These small, delicate, elegant watches should always have an evening look about them and be adorned with stones, whether genuine or fake makes no difference here. Sporty and everyday watches are not appropriate – better to go without. When wearing gloves, the watch is to be worn over these. Dresscode • 087

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The complexion

Special Effects Beauty products with special effects add a festive elegant touch. Iridescent powders with glittery particles achieve a subtle, shimmering complexion or conjure up attractive highlights on shoulders, cleavage or arms. An evening nail polish showcases hands. A scent suited to the lady’s style and personality adds the finishing touches to the whole “composition”.

The lips Even if you love going „without“ during the day, you should never pass on lipstick when getting ready for a ball. Whether you go for a matt or glossy finish, natural hues, warm, sensuous tones or – absolutely en voge this winter – flame-red lips is irrelevant. The important thing is to keep touching up your lips on site, to ensure a perfect look right into the early hours of the morning.

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F o t o : g u e r l a i n , s h i s e i d o , k a n e b o , c h a n e l , r u b i n s t e i n , n i n a r i c c i , l a n c o m e , y v e s s a i n t l a u r e n t, c l a r i n s

In order to appear radiant into the small hours, some important beauty accomplices are needed. Start with a suitable, possibly matting face cream, a concealer to mask little flaws or rings under the eyes, a foundation for an even complexion and a finishing powder. Also essential: powder for on-site touch-up-jobs.

Glamorous make up e rs o nalit y

The eyes A glittering occasion calls for glamorous eye makeup. Although, unless you have a very extravagant personality, you should focus on either the eyes or the lips when it comes to colour accents. Really big this season: soft iridescent eye shadows with a subtle metallic shimmer, well defined eye brows and an eye-line, which can be either subtle or decorative. Bold use of mascara frames gleaming eyes.

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 089

Elegant hair styling E l egan t ha i r st yli ng – a well executed hairdo is t h e crow ning g lo ry o f an y perfect "ball-look”

Styling A perfect hairdo begins with a perfect haircut – preferably “fresh from the salon”. The proper care products give your hair a seductive shimmer, conditioners guarantee added buoyancy and volume. Special finishing products, like gel, mousse or hairspray, which is vital for fixing up-dos, ensure that the hair stays in shape for a long while.

If you don’t want to go to the expense of a visit to the salon, you can do it yourself too. Hair straighteners make for super straight hair and/or give extra shine. Curling tongs transform lank locks into a mop of curly hair, brushes and combs tame the mane until the hairdo has reached is desired shape. Tip: it is best to try out your ball do beforehand and to put it to the test, to ensure it is doable, durable and gives you the right look.

Hair accessories An adorned head calls for confidence and delight in styling. After being passé for years, fascinators and hair accessories adorned with feathers, rhinestones, tulle or sequins can be spotted more frequently these days. Hair combs or long ribbons, bound at the back of the neck, keep them in place while dancing. Decorated hair bands are also a way of adding glamour to one’s hair.

090 • Dresscode

F o t o : L' O r é a l , w e l l a , b e i e r s d o r f, p h i l i p s , r e m i n g t o n , f i l z

The paraphernalia

Men’s

dress code

BEST DRESSED When it comes to formal attire, men have it pretty easy: in most cases the invitation will give clear instructions as to what outfit the host will be expecting. And as long as you can decipher these codes correctly, you won’t be spoilt for choice. 092 • Dresscode

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 093

The tailcoat When it comes to elegance nothing comes close to the tailcoat – the most elegant attire from top to toe for an exclusive night at the ball.

At events like the Vienna Opera Ball or the Vienna Philharmonic Ball the tailcoat is obligatory (although a tuxedo would also be permitted at the latter). If an invitation stipulates “white tie”, this definitely means a tailcoat. To ignore this dress code would not only be extremely inappropriate, but at balls like the Vienna Opera Ball you would quite simply be refused entry.

The details Shirt, waistcoat and tie should be coordinated and are referred to as a “set”. Typically the shirt has no fixed buttons, at least not in the upper part, but is fitted with decorative buttons that are pinned into the designated buttonholes. Wearing a tailcoat with a cummerbund rather than a waistcoat is rarely done. The white tie is a fixed component of the tailcoat ensemble.

Material & colour Tailcoat and trousers are made of black woollen fabric, the waistcoat of cotton piqué – there are no alternatives. Even if modern etiquette guides often propose “loosening up” occasion wear, it is better to conform to the conservative dress code if you don’t wish to leave a bad impression.

094 • Dresscode

tailcoat

The shirt The appropriate shirt to go with a tailcoat is white, the chest pleated or finished with cotton piquĂŠ and has a stand-up or wing collar. Another vital component: starched cuffs, collar, linen or piquĂŠ chest and a simple cuff with two button holes that can be fastened with cufflinks.

Jacket & trousers The jacket is always single breasted, has the typical tails at the back, a short front, silk lapels and can not be buttoned up. The matching trousers are made of the same material, have no turn-ups, boast a vertical satin stripe on the outer side and optionally a draw cord waistband, as they are worn without a belt.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 095

096 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

Tailcoat

The tailcoat is the epitome of elegance and the noblest attire for a night at the ball. However, only a few balls expressly require this dress code. In Vienna the tailcoat is only obligatory at the Opera Ball and Techniker Cercle.

The tuxedo A tuxedo makes for the perfect outfit for almost every ball.

„Black tie“ is a dress code widely used on invitations, especially to elegant balls such as the Vienna Philharmonic Ball, the Kaffeesiederball or the Elmayer Kränzchen. Owning a black or midnight blue tuxedo is compulsory if you are frequently invited to elegant evening events for business or pleasure.

The details Apart from the cummerbund, cufflinks and, with more exclusive versions, the five decorative shirt buttons are extremely elegant details. The bow tie, just like the cummerbund, is usually black. Very modernly styled gentlemen, however, may chose more colourful alternatives.

Material & colour A tuxedo, also known as “black dinner jacket“, can be black or midnight blue. An exception is the „dinner jacket“ – the white or cream coloured counterpart, usually made of a lighter wool material, as it is worn only at open air events such as summer balls like the Concordia-Ball. The tuxedo shirt is made of either cotton or silk.

098 • Dresscode

tuxedo

The shirt A tuxedo shirt has to be white, or, when worn with a dinner jacket, ivory and must have double, straight ended cuffs and cufflinks. Optional features are a hidden button facing or a pleated or piquĂŠ shirt chest. When it comes to collars there is a choice between a classic or wing collar. Stand up collars, however, are less typical.

Jacket & trousers The jacket can be single or double breasted, has a widening lapel or shawl collar of silk, but no slit in the back. Which cut and style you choose is a matter of taste and depends on your body shape. The trousers are made of the same material as the jacket and the outside seam is covered by a satin stripe. A dinner jacket always calls for black dress trousers.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 099

100 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

tuxedo

The tuxedo, or black tie, is a popular dress code for elegant evening events and balls like the Wiener Kaffeesiederball. Generally, a tuxedo is perfect for almost any ball.

The Gala-uniform Modern elegance combined with military symbolism. Colours and cuts reflect the uniform traditions of each country.

„Dress suit white“ – this is the correct term for the Austrian gala uniform and is generally to be worn when the dress code stipulates tailcoats or tuxedos. At the Officer’s Ball at the Hofburg Vienna you can admire the full range of gala uniforms from all countries.

Awards & decorations The way of wearing all insignia and awards as well as the order in which they are placed are subject to meticulous rules. For instance, the highest distinction is to be attached to the far right corner above the left breast pocket. Gold is for officers, silver for non-commissioned officers – a maximum total of 10 breast decorations (crosses, jewels, medals) may be worn. Rank badges and shoulder decorations are gold for officers and silver for noncommissioned officers. The manner in which the golden shoulder cords are worn also indicates whether the wearer is a Guards officer, military attaché or adjutant of the Federal President or chief military staff.

Material & colour Typically the material used for uniforms is firm, to enable the wearing of military insignia, cordons and pockets. The Austrian uniform is made from a cream coloured gabardine, indicating the great tradition of the imperial army that wore white uniforms until 1866. The trousers, however, are black-blue.

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gala-uniform

Shirt & accessories The shirt is invariably white, the tie is black-blue. Black knee high socks and black low shoes are obligatory. The shoes must be smooth, without any decorative seams and must be polished till they shine. White gloves are a must and add further propriety and elegance to the wearer’s appearance.

Jacket & trousers The gala uniform’s cut is the same as that of the formal uniform. Military accessories such as gold shoulder decorations, shoulder cords or elaborate awards in gold and silver make the uniform even more splendid. The black-blue trousers boast isochromatic stripes to cover the outside seams. Exception: Generals wear broad red decorative stripes on their trousers.

Illustriation by Hariet Müller Dresscode • 103

104 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

gala-uniform

The Gala-Uniform – also called „dress suit white“ – can be worn to every society event that calls for the dress codes black or white tie. Admire the whole range of the gala uniform at the Officer’s Ball at the Hofburg Vienna.

The dark suit Just because a suit is dark doesn’t automatically mean it is a suitable evening suit for a night at the ball.

Every man should own at least one elegant evening suit that can be worn to events like the Wiener Blumenball or various balls in the provinces. Experts passionately argue about the exact dress code for occasion wear – no other form of attire inspires such differences of opinion. Elegance is a good point of reference when it comes to the quality of an evening suit.

The details It is a definite faux pas to appear at a ball with a simple tie. The bow tie can be either black or dark red. A blue suit calls for a bow tie of the same colour. If you really want to wear a tie, definitely opt for a subtly patterned or iridescent silk tie.

Material & colour Elegance is the name of the game – beginning with the material. Pure wool or wool-satin mixed fabrics, gabardines or satins with a lightly shimmering surface are preferable to sporty flannels. For formal occasions the suit should be black, anthracite or midnight blue and can also be pin striped.

106 • Dresscode

Dark Suit

The shirt The shirt must be white and have double cuffs, at least when attending a ball. When it comes to the collar, all forms are possible – with the exception of very sporty or button down versions. A tuxedo shirt is the best option for a black suit. By the way: these shirts never have breast pockets, but always boast French cuffs.

Jacket & trousers Elegant evening suit jackets can be cut in the Italian or American way, usually have 2 or 3 buttons and – regardless of whether they are single or double breasted – have no slit in the back. A single breasted jacket can be combined with a waistcoat. These days, 1-button-versions can also be found among Italian designs. The trousers are always made from the same material in the same colour as the jacket.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode • 107

108 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

Dark Suit

At balls the dark suit is to be worn exclusively with bow ties. The combination with a tuxedo shirt makes a dark suit appear even more elegant. This dress code is most suited to university and dance school balls.

Festive nationaL costume When it comes to traditional occasion wear, it has to be a traditionalformal suit, not one for everyday use. National costume is obligatory when “Tracht” (German for national costume) is the only stipulated dress code on the invitation, e.g. at the Jägerball. If the dress code calls for „heimatliche Tracht“, as does the Edelweißkränzchen in Salzburg, only original national costumes are allowed and no tradition-inspired “fantasy creations”. Totally taboo: wearing national costumes of other cultures, like wearing a kilt when you haven’t a drop of Scottish blood flowing in your veins.

The details National costumes are often adorned with precious embroidery and fine buttons of silver or staghorn. A three-piece looks particularly elegant – for evening wear the waistcoat should be made of either silk brocade, velvet or fine loden. Silk cravats with typical patterns add the finishing touch.

Material & colour Modest suits of woollen material or light merino loden in black, anthracite, dark blue, brown or dark green with subtle colour accents are recommended. Stag leather is only the order of the day at the more rustic Almdudler Trachtenpärchenball, for all other balls this material is just not elegant enough – except if it is a fixed component of an original, festive national costume.

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fFestive national costume

The Shirt At balls a white shirt is preferable to a checked or striped one. The traditional “Pfoad” shirt is also an option, as long as the event isn’t too elegant and the shirt can be combined with a traditional “Joppe” jacket. A dark frock-coat looks good combined with a tuxedo shirt with hidden buttons and cuffs.

Jacket & trousers A formal coat or traditional jacket are the most suitable options. While the former is particularly elegant, it only suits taller gentlemen. Some original national dress codes stipulate knickerbockers to go with a frock-coat, however, for formal occasions these should not be made from leather. The classic Styrian suit is accepted in Austria as legitimate dress for a ball. A green hunter’s tuxedo with black tuxedo trousers is also socially acceptable.

Illustriation by Marianne Zahel Dresscode • 111

112 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

fFestive national costume

Festive national costume usually means an original Austrian costume, fanciful fashion designs inspired by national dress are not authentic enough. Important: festive national costumes are to be worn with white shirts. Wearing national costumes from countries other than your own is taboo.

Men’s

accessories

Attention to detail “The world’s most beautiful accessories” The seemingly trifling things like cufflinks, watches, etc. round off any outfit and say a lot about their owner.

114 • Dresscode

Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 115

E l eme n t s o f at t i r e – a p e rf e c t g e ntl e man is e l e g antl

Watch & cufflinks When it comes to occasion wear, a pocket watch is always much classier than a wristwatch. While a modest, elegant wristwatch is allowed when wearing an evening suit, and just about tolerated with a dinner jacket and tuxedo, it is a definite no-go when worn with a tailcoat. Here you need to decide between a pocket watch or going “timeless”. Cufflinks, an absolute must for evening suit, tuxedo and tailcoat alike, are typically made of yellow, rose or white gold with a mother-of-pearl or onyx inlay. Other designs are possible, as long as they are elegant and made of precious metal.

Shoes & socks When it comes to the correct shoes for tailcoats, traditionalists insist on patent leather slip ons with silk bows. Patent loafers or oxfords are also totally correct. In fact, you can’t wear tails or tuxedos without them. Oxford shoes made of black leather would be the only acceptable alternative for a tuxedo. However, you should always remember that you will be judged from head to toe. Stockings or socks should be made of fine materials, such as a wool and silk mix. They are always black.

The dress handkerchief According to the old school, the handkerchief is an absolute “must“ when wearing occasion wear and should be made of white cotton, linen or silk to match the shirt. In more tolerant dress codes coloured handkerchiefs – except when worn with a tailcoat –are permissible as an “eye catcher”. Where applicable, they are colour-coordinated to match bow tie, ascot tie or cummerbund, but never black.

116 • Dresscode

Men’s accessories

antly st y l e d fr o m h e a d t o t o e

Braces Braces are the most traditional way of keeping trousers in place and are usually indispensable, as belts are not allowed when wearing a tailcoat or tuxedo. Suitable braces must be white when worn with a tailcoat and, if worn with a tuxedo, can be black or another colour to match the bow tie. They should have elegant silk ribbons at the front and only be elasticated at the back.

F o t o : R o m y H u b e gg e r , C a r o s t r a s n i k , w e mp e , m o n t b l a n c , FALKE

Hat & scarf An elegant white silk scarf can be worn with tuxedos and tailcoats. The classic top hat is covered with black velvet, and can only be worn with a tailcoat and must be handed in at the clock room together with the white scarf. The old fashioned opera hat – also called “chapeau claque” – consists of a wired frame that is covered with silk and is collapsible. A black cape is a particularly elegant supplement to a tailcoat, the proverbial “icing on the cake”. If you want to go for an exceptionally traditional look, add a black cane with a silver knob.

The gloves Nowadays, white evening gloves made of silk or cotton are usually preferred to the classic kid gloves. With the exception of official state receptions, they can be handed in at the cloak room, although, according to the conservative dress code, they should be worn all evening with a tailcoat and only removed when eating or shaking hands. While wearing gloves with a tuxedo or evening suit is no gaffe, it is quite unusual to do so these days, except at some dance schools.

Dresscode • 117

How to knot a tie The four-in-hand knot

Q u e l l e : B r a u m ü l l e r v e r l a g , S t y l i n g r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e M a n "

The “four-in-hand” or simple knot is the most popular knot for a tie. The origin of its name, however, is still shrouded in mystery. There are a host of theories explaining how this knot came by its name: for instance that it was made popular by members of the London “fourin-hand-clubs” or that the manner in which London carriage drivers held their reins led to this name. The four-in-hand knot is popular with most men as it suits almost all figures, particularly men with a long torso and stout neck.

How it’s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck, so that the broad end is to your left and slightly longer than the narrow end. Then fold the broad end over the narrow end of the tie – for a perfect finish, right under the collar. 2. Take up the broad end with your right hand and flip it to the left, behind the narrow end, so that the back of the broad end faces upward.

4. & 5. Bring the broad end up towards the chin. Coming from behind, thread it through the loop around the neck and then through the knot at the front. 6. Take hold of the narrow end with your left hand, while carefully pulling at the broad end with your right hand until the loop is pulled together. Finally, pull the knot up to the top button.

3. Lay the broad end over the narrow end, the front should now be facing up again.

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The Half Windsor This triangular knot is sometimes also called English or Turkish knot. It looks very elegant, is a little slimmer than the Windsor know and is very suited to narrow ties made of thin materials. The Half Windsor knot suits all types of figure and looks particularly good with shirts with classic or broad collars.

How itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done: 1. Start as you would with the four-in-hand: Lay the tie around your neck, so that the broad end is on your left and much longer than the narrow end. Then fold the broad end of the tie over the narrow end, just under the collar. 2. Then bring the broad end up towards the chin and, coming from behind, thread it through the loop. The tip of the broad end should now be pointing to the right.

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3. Now wrap the broad end around the narrow end in a clockwise motion, so that the broad end lies to the right, with its front facing upwards. 4. & 5. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and, coming from behind, thread it through the loop and then through the knot at the front. Finally, simply adjust the knot accordingly.

How to knot a tie The Windsor knot

Q u e l l e : B r a u m Ăź l l e r v e r l a g , S t y l i n g r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e M a n "

This classic, relatively large knot is named for the Duke of Windsor and is comparitively complicated. It is triangular in shape and lends narrow ties more volume and body. The Windsor knot is most suited to a broad collar, such as a cutaway, men of medium or small height and men with a short torso or thin neck.

How itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck so that the broad end is to your left and slightly longer in comparison to the narrow end. Then, just as with the half Windsor, the broad end is folded over the narrow end, just below the collar. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and thread it through the loop from behind. 2. Starting from the right, guide the broad end under the narrow end.

over the narrow end once more, coming from the left. 4. Bring the broad end up towards the chin once again, through the loop from behind and then thread it through the knot at the front. 5. Now simply push the knot up to the upper shirt button.

3. Bring the broad end up towards the chin and, starting from the front, thread it through the loop. Then lay the broad end Dresscode â&#x20AC;˘ 121

F o t o : R o m y H u b e gg e r

The bow tie

The bow tie is deemed to be the tie’s predecessor. Originally it was a knotted, diagonally folded square kerchief that got smaller and narrower with thime, until it reached its present shape round about 1870. Although, according to the classic dress code, the bow tie used to be a correct alternative to the tie for a long time, it is now almost obsolete. Nowadays it is only seen in occasion and professional wear, e.g. a judge’s white tie or a tailcoated waiter’s black tie. In snooker, wearing a bow tie is also an important part of the dress code. Equally important: wearing a bow tie with a tailcoat (white tie) or a tuxedo (black tie). Bow ties are most suited to detachable collars, broad collars and Italian collars. High quality bow ties are made of pure silk, the only exception being white ties for tailcoats, which are always made of cotton piqué. The bow tie knot: tieing your own bow tie is not obligatory nowadays. Black and white bow ties can be bought ready tied and only need to be adjusted to fit the collar. However, it is also undeniable that tying your own bow tie shows a lot of class. Although the process is no different from tying one’s shoelaces, bow ties can prove to be a bit of a problem at times.

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Q u e l l e : B r a u m ü l l e r v e r l a g , S t y l i n g r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e M a n "

How to knot a bow tie

How it’s done: 1. Lay the tie around your neck so that the end on your left is longer than the one on your right.

6. Flip the long end up – in the shape of a bow, as before – and then pull it from the left through the part you have just folded

2. Fold the longer over the shorter end.

7. & 8. Finally, align the bow by carefully pulling at both „wings“, making sure it’s symmetrical.

3. The long end should now be brought up towards the chin and pulled forward. It can then be left hanging down. 4. Then fold the short end in the middle of the broad part, making a bow – the loop should be pointing to the left. Fold the long end over the knot you have just formed. 5. Now bring the long end up towards the chin, back and over to the front again.

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The dress handkerchief Colours and patterns of the handkerchief should match those of the tie: traditionally it is thought to be stylish for small patterns to be combined with larger ones, or that the handkerchief’s colour can also be found in the tie’s pattern. However, identical materials and patterns are deemed boring by connaisseurs. In some companies the handkerchief is considered too elegant for everyday wear – observing your senior colleagues can help you make the right choice here.

Ways of folding handkerchiefs 1

Two point fold This classic fold with its two points is very popular and most commonly worn.

Straight Shell This simple yet stylish alternative is easy to fold and ideally suited to thin silk handkerchiefs.

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how to Fold A dress handkerchief

Diagonal Shell The diagonal shell is a stylish way of folding thin silk handkerchiefs, whereby it is imperative that the highest point is on the outside.

Cagney

Q u e l l e : B r a u m ü l l e r v e r l a g , S t y l i n g r at g e b e r " D r e s s c o d e M a n "

The cagney is a very elaborate way of folding a handkerchief and is mainly suited to elegant occasions, as the handkerchief is conspicuously emphasised and made an eye catcher.

The cravat The cravat is the modern tie’s predecessor and still an important accessory in classic horse riding circles and for some national costumes. It is often worn with a suit, preferably with a loosely tied knot around an open shirt collar – a combination that can seem anything from dandy-like to extravagant. The cravat is usually tied with a four-in-hand knot, but with one difference: at the final stage, instead of pulling the front end through the knot it is simply laid over the knot. A modern variation of the cravat is a narrow, fringed silk or light woollen scarf that is partly sewn together at the back. It can be worn like a scarf or, alternatively, tied with a four-in-hand knot.

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Review 2011 Highlights We captured the most beautiful balls for you on camera. From the Kaffeesiederball and the Elmayer-KrĂ¤nzchen to the Graz Opera Redoute. Let yourself be enchanted by the special flair of Austrian ball culture. 126 â&#x20AC;˘ Dresscode

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