Varmodo’s own goldsmith turns grandma’s ring into a new piece of jewellery

● 28

BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS 42–2022 VÄRMDÖʼS OWN GOLDSMITH TURNS GRANDMAʼS RING INTO A NEW PIECE OF JEWELLERY

Värmdö's goldsmith Tobias Harborn has always a lot to do. Right now, the trend is that more and more people want to melt down their heirlooms and make new jewellery out of it.

Quite hidden but very central, on the ground floor of Gustavsberg's inn, Värmdö's only goldsmith works. The benches in the small room are covered with tools, tiny parts in different materials and heavy mechanical machines that seem to originate from another time.

In the corner stands Tobias Harborn melting gold with a gas burner. Four old rings that someone has submitted will be given new life, in a new piece of jewellery. – This is something that is increasing, that customers want to turn grandma's or grandpa's old ring into something else. Old heirlooms simply get new life, he says.

RETAINS THE JEWELLERY, IN ANOTHER FORM

The old jewellery may have become outdated, but there is an affection value in it because it comes from a dear relative, Tobias explains. – In this way you keep it, but in a different form. Sometimes the customer wants to keep parts of the old jewellery in the new way, such as a stone or a certain detail.

Another reason to melt down your jewellery can be a divorce, says Tobias. – I can have customers who say: “I never want to see it again.” And it can be arranged.

Tobias Harborn has worked as a goldsmith for 27 years and has run the company Skärgårdsjuveler together with his wife Isabel for the past ten years. That was when they decided to move from the city to Värmdö. Before that, he was hired by goldsmith shops in Stockholm to make jewellery for their customers. – I wanted to start working more with private customers. It's more fun to meet the person who will wear the jewellery and I like the social part of my work, says Tobias.

 Precision. Tobias Harborn examines the diamonds on a ring using a microscope attached to a large screen. Photo: Pekka Pääkkö

 Crafts. Gold rings are melted down using a gas burner.

Photo: Pekka Pääkkö

 Old becomes new. Tobias Harborn melts down gold rings with the help of gas burners. Photo: Pekka Pääkkö

BOND VIBES

Now he makes jewellery for private individuals. There will be a lot of wedding and engagement rings, including change work and customers who want to upgrade their wedding rings, if they have been married for a long time.

– It may be a couple which wants to pay for new, nicer rings. – Men usually love to come here to the workshop. There is fire and machines and beautiful stones, there is a bit of Bond vibes, Tobias adds and laughs.

Jewellery has always had a special meaning to people, and they often carry a story, says Isabel: – It could be that they are associated with something dear and fun, a gift, a memory, maybe something that you have carried all your life. We hear many great stories here.

WHAT IS IT THAT FASCINATES YOU ABOUT THE PROFESSION?

– It is probably the combination of being an artist and a craftsman in one. To be able to create and work with details. I can sit and file out pieces of platinum and the end product will be something very beautiful, says Tobias.

Orders increase a bit every year, and the studio is open when they are working there. Platinum and white gold are popular right now, according to Tobias.

One of Tobias Harbor's specialties is platinum. Recently, he developed his first own collection of jewellery with platinum and diamonds. – Many people avoid working with that material, but I like it. It is durable and retains its color well. ■