Report about jewellery market in Latvia - “Cumnetwork” and “Designers 5”

Jewelry by Andris Lauders; Handbag by VASKALA; Model: Paula Peridistaja;

Photo: Krista Bumbiere

By Ginta Grūbe

Nakedness and sexiness isn’t a daring area for artists today. A custom nipple pin set that allows you to receive pins, cast from your custom mould is neither shocking nor genius from the creativity means. In the 70’ prominent jewellery artists as Gerd Rothman have incorporated cast parts of the human body into jewellery with great creativity and diversity. In the second decade of 2000s French jeweller Clementine Despocq designed a very feminine and fragile nipple pin from egg shell and gold plated silver. However a nipple still appears to be very suggestive. Especially when playing around with the number of them. The Latvian press recently spread news about a mural in which stylized women figures with four and six breasts appeared. Despite the fact that bare breasts can be viewed on any smartphone and it doesn't even require much finger dexterity, this work of art still managed to resonate in Latvian society indicating that nudity is understandable, but an artistic interpretation perhaps not.

Valdis Brože; asimetric necklace; onix, enamel, gold 24ct, oxidized sterling silver;

photo courtesy of author

CUMNETWORK

This was a short preface before I introduce the reader with the new jewellery and design trading platform Cumnetwork that has formed in Latvia. “Absorbing the heightened concentration of present globalisation, we offer an international platform for European-based artists who hand-make sustainable and delicate wearable art,” can be read on Cumnetwork website1. Katrīna Jauģiete (the founder of the platform) explains more about the project in an article by fold.lv2. “At the moment, four Latvian designers and artists — Brenda Jansone, Madara Keidža, Persefon, and Spookcrook — are represented on Cumnetwork, but any European designer who offers bold and high-quality creations is invited to apply to join the platform,” says in the article. The platform shows an increase in supporting and promoting the creative work of young Latvian jewellery artists. And even more – it outlines a possible waypoint for international collaborations.

DESIGNERS 5

Salon/concept store DESIGNERS 5 has opened not virtually as nowadays it often happens, but physically with premises in Riga, Tērbatas street 85. Designers Antra Hanna Elerta, Andris Lauders, Māris Šustiņš, Ērika Rudika and Valdis Brože have set up a space for design, jewellery, perfume and accessories.

1 https://cumnetwork.net/pages/about 2 https://www.fold.lv/en/2022/07/design-provocations-on-the-cumnetwork-platform/

Valdis Brože is one of the winners of the International Contemporary Jewellery Fair AUTHOR 2022 thus proving to be a well recognized figure not only in Latvian jewellery community but also abroad. Valdis Brože invited Māris Šustiņš and Andris Lauders to join the group of designers forming a professional collective. They illustrate how jewellery designers in Latvia work in their individual handwriting and gain recognition among others. Brože has a powerful visual language using strong asymmetric compositions and contrast between the fine precious metal constructions and massive voluminous optical glass and stones.

Šustiņš is an artist recommended by Homo Faber guide and masters craft in its highest excellence. His jewellery tends to hold in between the classics and the vanguard of jewellery in Latvia. His jewellery is often a choice by prominent wearers such as Latvian born lady Signe Zeikate, who has recently become the first lady of Costa Rica. “The brooch (for Signe Zeikate) is designed in the shape of a stylized orchid flower, which is the national flower of Costa Rica,” explains Šustiņš. Flowers in metal are a passion of his.

Andris Lauders is an excellent jewellery artist with exquisite taste. Clever geometry and light forms are on his jewellery characteristics list. Basically, he lives with a file in his hand, because jewellery is not only his job but also his hobby. Andris Lauders believes in miracles, he is playful but

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BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS 42–2022

Māris Šustiņš; rings (May, June, July, August); photo courtesy of author

Andris Lauders; rings; photo courtesy of author

Madara Keidža; Charmed ring; silver; photo courtesy of cumnetwork.net

Brenda Jansone; Nipple pin set; silicone;

photo courtesy of cumnetwork.net

can become fantastically serious at the same time. “If the puddles freeze, I'll be the first to go skating,” he laughs.

The idea for a concept store did not take long to come up with. The recent closing of gallery “Putti” was one of the reasons but not the decisive. It is possible that the virtual environment has been overestimated and in some cases presence is irreplaceable. Presence and hand-made is the new black!