INSPIRED senior living magazine GETTING BACK IN THE GYM
OCTOBER 2018
CHEF HIDEKAZU TOJO
UNCOVERING TREASURES PROLIFIC ARTIST AROUNDMARZARI THE DARLENE MEDITERRANEAN WELCOMES EACH BASIN DAY AS A GIFT HAPPINESS:A FULFILLING IS IT WITHIN DREAM LATER INOUR LIFE GRASP? BIRDWATCHING HOBBY SOARS
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Chef Tojo: Bridging Cultures by John Thomson My Gym Workout Journey by Kate Robertson Italy’s Positano: Then and Now by Pamela & Gary Baker Divining Happiness by J. Kathleen Thompson Sailing into Timeless Wonder by Rick & Chris Millikan The Greek Island Hydra by J. Kathleen Thompson Turkey: History, Art and Heart by Kate Robertson Mr. Dressed Up by John Kelly
FOREVER FIT 27 REBOOT 29 FAMILY CAREGIVER 30 MARKETPLACE 31 COURAGEOUS & OUTRAGEOUS
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Cover CHEF HIDEKAZU TOJO Meet the man who introduced the world to the California roll, a Vancouver concoction originally called the inside-out roll. Photo by Tom Gould 4 2
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Chef Hidekazu Tojo photographed behind his elegant Japanese restaurant, Tojo’s, in Vancouver. Photos: Tom Gould
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CHEF HIDEKAZU TOJO: BRIDGING CULTURES by JOHN THOMSON “Cooking is an art, but all art requires knowing something about the techniques and materials.” The phrase is attributed to Nathan Myhrvold, the American author of the six-volume series Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. Vancouver chef Hidekazu Tojo would certainly agree. The breadth of his knowledge, not only in terms of technique but in recognizing what appeals to Western tastes and what doesn’t have made Hidekazu – “people find it hard to pronounce my name, so I tell them to just say Tojo” – Vancouver’s go-to guy for high-end Japanese dining. He’s the man who introduced the world to the California roll, a Vancouver concoction originally called the insideout roll because Chef Tojo wrapped the crab meat, avocado and cucumber in rice rather than in a sheet of seaweed, a reversal of the norm. “Seaweed? Western people say yuck. I understand that,” he says. “Traditionally, seaweed must be on the outside. People who have been to Japan know that seaweed is very healthy for you, but most people haven’t been to Japan.” So, realizing his customers had an aversion to algae, he
switched things around. “The seaweed is hiding,” he says with a wink. “My lawyer told me, Tojo, you must patent it, but I said it costs too much and if I patent it, it will become too expensive and it won’t become popular.” It did become popular and the California roll wrapped in rice rather than seaweed is now a staple. It’s copied the world over and Chef Tojo doesn’t get a cent. As for the name, Tojo says it was the Japanese media, not him, who came up with calling it the California roll because “at that time (the mid-1970s) people [in Japan] thought Canada and America were the same. North America meant California, you know Los Angeles. Everything in North America was called California. They didn’t know Vancouver.” Now in his late sixties, Tojo is still innovating, substituting quinoa for sushi rice. Voilà, the quinoa roll. “I’m making new creations all the time. I never stop. We have a lot of repeat customers, once a week, some come twice a week. They’re looking for a new dish. Customers demand a Tojo creation, and I’m very excited to provide that. Both sides win.”
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Snapshot with Chef Tojo If you were to meet your 20-year-old self, what advice would you give him? “Believe in yourself. Now I like cooking but there was a time I wasn’t so sure. When I was at the ryotei, this customer said, ‘could you make me egg-custard soup?’ I knew how, so I cooked it. The customer said, ‘excellent.’ I was only 20 years old, but it made me very confident.” Who or what has influenced you the most and why? “The Japanese author Yasushi Inoue influenced me the most when I was in my early twenties. His book Kaseki, a novel exploring death and the meaning of life especially moved me and inspired me to jump at opportunities and confront challenges, including moving to Canada.” What does courage mean to you? “Taking a chance. If I open a restaurant, I must be a businessman, even if I don’t want to. When I open the door, I must be working hard.” What does success mean to you? “Success means repeat customers. Customers are happy; employees are happy. I’m very comfortable. I’m not poor. I’m not super rich but I enjoy my work. I enjoy my quality of life.” |
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One of eight children, Hidekazu Tojo was born in rural Japan in the prefecture of Kagoshima. Kagoshima sits on the southwest tip of the island of Kyushi at the bottom of Japan. He has three brothers and four sisters. His father worked as a logger felling trees for a forestry company, a position that traditionally goes to the eldest male, but as No. 4 son, Tojo had to leave home and make his own way in the world. “My high school teacher asked me what I would like to do, and I said I’m very interested in cooking. I wanted to see outside Japan and there were only three ways to get out of Japan. The first way was in the service of the government. The second was in business. You have to be very smart. I didn’t go to university. No university, no chance. Or one last chance,” he pauses to reflect, “cook.” His teacher recommended him to the Ohnoya ryotei in Osaka. Tojo describes a ryotei as a meeting place for fine dining, a cross between a luxurious high-end restaurant and a refuge after a busy day at the office. “Most people relax in a private room and take off their shoes,” he says. At 18, he was interviewed and won a trainee position. It’s here that he learned to cook traditional Japanese fare. “We learned sushi, tempura, yakatori, noodles. Many, many things. Everything was covered.” Although Western dishes were still a novelty, at the time, the ryotei also touched upon Western meat preferences, which was fortuitous because young Tojo had itchy feet, anxious to see the world. “I was looking for opportunity.” And opportunity knocked when a ryotei acquaintance introduced him to the owner of Maneki, a Japanese restaurant in Vancouver. “He was looking for young employees. I said I was looking for something outside Japan. He said Canada. Hmm. Canada. Vancouver. I had never heard of it. Then I did a little research. Vancouver was beautiful. It was very, very interesting.” They negotiated by mail for over a year and finally, in 1971, Tojo arrived in Vancouver at 21 years of age to work at Maneki on East Hastings. At the end of his two-year contract, he returned to Osaka to visit his family. WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM
“I’m back in Osaka and I say, no, I don’t want to stay. There’s too many people and I don’t like Japanese politics. Then I’m back in Vancouver and I decide to stay.” But in committing to Canada, he realized he had to reach out and expand his repertoire. “I decided I must be more open for Western customers.” It’s here at his second posting, Jinya, that he introduced the California roll, winning over Vancouver diners still a bit unsure about Japanese food. “I was making everything original. Also, I knew Western tastes,” says Tojo. And he had help from influential friends. “James Barber followed me from Maneki. He explained and slowly, slowly, [Japanese cuisine] caught on.” When the owner of Jinya retired, chef Tojo was presented with an opportunity. He could move on to yet another establishment or he could open his own restaurant. “I’m a chef, not a businessman. That’s my focus,” he says, remembering those heady days in 1988 when he was encouraged to strike out on his own. “My customers came to me and said, Tojo, maybe you should do it. So, my accountant, my lawyer, my banker, everybody helped me. It was the right time,” he says. Today, his restaurant Tojo’s (it’s the second incarnation) sits on an unremarkable part of Broadway, sandwiched between a liquor store and a pharmacy, but once through the doors, the magic takes over. The interior is warm and inviting. Traditional paper screens separate the restaurant from a private enclave at the back and it’s here that I meet Tojo, excited to find out more about him and his calling. He tells me he’s married with two adult children. His son lives and works in Tokyo. His married daughter lives in Vancouver. He has a three-year-old grandchild. “They love good food, but they’re not interested in the business,” he confesses. He starts his day at 6:00 AM, watches the morning news and checks his reservation book for familiar customers. At approximately nine o’clock, he walks for about 45 minutes and then swims at the community pool, arriving at the Broadway location at around 1:00 PM. His staff is already preparing dinner. His favourite activity is planning the menu, especially preparing unique dishes for his regular customers.
“After the customer has the final dish, I leave. That can be dleton in 2016 and the year before that served as the resident anywhere from 8:30 PM to 10:00 or later.” chef aboard Adventure Canada’s cruise ship Ocean Endeavour He enjoys sourcing all his ingredients. He imports fish as it plied the Arctic Ocean. And yes, the dishes centred around from Japan for that wow factor but also shops locally. “My Arctic Char, Greenland shrimps, seaweed and kelp. philosophy is to use a lot of local ingredients. It helps the local He’s been recognized by the Zagat Survey, the Wall Street economy.” Journal and perpetually wins local magazine surveys as a Tojo says it’s important to keep up with culinary trends. Vancouver favourite. In 2006, Tojo was inducted into the BritHe reads a lot and watches the Food Network. At the moment, ish Columbia Restaurants Hall of Fame. While he appreciates yuzu juice from the yuzu plant is trendy. Originating in the the awards – and there are many – he says the real purpose of mountains of China, it’s a hardy fruit that will grow anywhere being recognized by his peers is to inspire others and show if the soil is well-drained. It ripens to an orange colour about younger chefs what can be accomplished. the size of grapefruit; yuzu juice is used to enhance soy sauces, As for the future, his wife says he should retire, and Tojo miso toppings and ponzu sauces. says he will comply, at least a little bit. “We even have yuzu-flavoured beer,” says the chef. “We use “I’m looking for a soft landing,” he continues. “Right now, it over fish. Anything.” I’m working 100 per cent. In five years, maybe I’ll work 50 per Tojo admits he’s not the effusive kind of restaurateur who flits from table to table greeting his customers. Outside of welcoming his regular customers, he usually stays out of sight. “In a high-end restaurant, the kitchen is at the very back. We never see the customer. I mostly stay in the kitchen. I’m not a show-off guy. I’m shy.” His best-selling dishes? Tuna tataki, Tojo tuna, and smoked sablefish marinated in miso. He serves authentic rolls: traditional sushi with the seaweed on the outside to those who ask for it. Omakase, which is Chef Tojo uses primarily essentially the chef’s surprise, is local ingredients to support ordered by 60 per cent of Tojo’s the city’s economy, however, diners. he imports fish for his signature When asked what drives him, dishes from Japan. Tojo takes me back to 1972 and his eureka moment. “I came to Canada in 1971,” he says. “In 1972, a flight attendant came into Maneki and said cent or 40 per cent but, in an emergency, I’m there. My nephew Tojo, would you like to go to a three-star French restaurant? is interested in taking over. I’m giving him more power, but he My salary was $360 a month. We went to the restaurant. I paid needs more study in cooking and in management.” $350 for that meal. Expensive, yes? Why do people pay more Travel is also in the cards. He says he’d like to see his at a French restaurant? That’s the level I wanted for my Japafriends and travel the world. A Buddhist monastery in Japan nese restaurant. I wanted to elevate Japanese food to the same has issued an open invitation. The monks are vegan. level as French or Italian cooking. That was my challenge.” “They said, please come. I’m very interested. I’m very Decades later, mission accomplished. Tojo’s has become the open. My food is very open. Some people say, Tojo, I don’t like gold standard for Japanese dining, a landmark for fine diners, Mexican food. I don’t like Indian food. I say, no. If any kind of visiting executives, royalty and celebrities. Guns N’ Roses, the food is prepared properly, it should taste good. Anything.” cast of Baywatch, the Dutch king and queen, the emperor and “I’m happy I chose to be a chef,” he says. “I’m not looking empress of Japan and a myriad of performers passing through for money. I’m looking for new food, new creations. It keeps Hollywood North have all sat at his tables and, in the process, me young and interesting. Just counting money? That’s boring. Tojo has become a bit of a celebrity himself. He’s appeared on If I went back to Japan or to New York, I’d have the chance numerous cooking contests such as Glutton for Punishment, to make big money, but I know a lot of rich people and some Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and the Martha Stewart of them are not happy. I love cooking. I like to see my regular Cooking Show. He cooked for Prince William and Kate Midcustomers every week and that is my life. I’m very lucky.” | WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM
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MY GYM WORKOUT JOURNEY by KATE ROBERTSON It all started with one Pilates class at my local recreation centre. There, the brainstorm hit me: why not go to the gym after class and maximize my strength-building efforts? Now that might sound spontaneous, but I must admit I’d been influenced by several articles I’d recently read emphasizing the importance of weight training as we age. Everyone from the government of Canada to Oprah was saying so, and I was getting the message that by the time we reach our 50s, it’s important to spend time weight training, in addition to cardio. Cathy Potkins, clinical exercise physiologist registered with the American College of Sports Medicine, recommends some form of cardio exercise every day, and 2-3 days of weight training per week. “Cardio is important for the heart and prevention of other chronic diseases, as well as to help maintain bone density,” she says. “If you’re a smaller-framed person and have a leaner build, or if you do your cardio in water, weight training is a particularly important addition to your routine. Unfortunately, for both men and women, bone density starts to decline as early as age 35, with most women’s bone density declining 0.5 to 1 per cent per year until menopause. Through menopause, this can accelerate to a 2-5 per cent bone loss for a 10-year period due to the decline in estrogen production. For men, this acceleration is delayed until 65.” I hadn’t been to the gym in years, so I thought it would be prudent to arrange a consult with the in-house gym tech, who showed me proper positioning, appropriate weights to start with and how to move with the correct range of motion, as she helped me set up a reasonable workout to target each of the muscle groups in my body. According to Potkins, “In Canada, most gyms use a PAR-Q (a physical activity readiness questionnaire) as a measure of whether you should see your doctor before starting at the gym. It is recommended you see your physician if you have any heart or blood pressure issues, experience chest pains, issues with balance or dizziness, chronic health conditions, take medications for chronic conditions, or if you have significant bone or soft tissue issues. However, usually it is far more detrimental to your health not to 10 8
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exercise than to get started on a well-designed program.” The day after my first workout, I could definitely feel each of my muscle groups, but in a good way. After a couple of weeks of starting on the lowest weights, I was able to increase the weights for all groups, except the bench press and chest press, where I seem to be interminably stuck. I find myself machine-stalking to see what others are lifting, and it’s often more than me. I find this discouraging, but Potkins reassures: “Remember, the size of the muscle matters. If you look at a muscle like a bicep or your leg muscles, they are quite big. They will get stronger faster than smaller muscles. Women generally have smaller muscles to begin with and areas such as the chest are made up of a lot of smaller fibres; they will get stronger, but you have to be patient.” Beware, if your goal for weight training is to shed a few pounds, muscle is denser than fat. That means those three pounds I gained a few weeks into my routine were due to the new muscle being denser than my existing fat. But the result was a loss of inches. I’m trying to stay focused on Potkins’ advice of concentrating on how I feel, how my clothes fit and whether I feel stronger.
ABOVE | The author on a leg press machine at her local gym. Photo: Kate Robertson
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Now, I’m not going to lie, it’s been difficult to stick to a regular gym routine. Out-of-town vacation travel, a busy life and, sometimes, well, downright laziness have threatened to take my workouts off track. Because I am hooked on the good feeling, a schedule disruption can cause a “can’t-wait-to-get-back-to-the-gym” thought, but another part of me finds it hard to get going again. Potkins has suggestions for this: “Before you go away, write your return to the gym date on the calendar or put it in your phone. Add a note about how good you feel when you go. Set a time to meet someone at the gym or let someone know you’re returning to your routine. Accountability helps. I also find it is important to set a time to exercise and write it into your schedule. This helps to ensure it doesn’t get bumped by the day-to-day business of life.” But sometimes our best laid plans go awry, like while I was in Mexico for a couple of weeks this winter. We were staying only a couple of blocks from a gym, and every day I said I would go – but I never did. Even while enjoying sun, sand and margaritas, there was a niggling guilt stirring within me – was I going to lose the muscle mass I’d already worked so hard to gain? “How quickly you lose muscle mass depends on how fit and strong you were to begin with,” says Potkins, “and how active you are even though you aren’t at the gym. We may lose muscle a bit faster as we age, but the good news is that we tend to regain it a bit faster than the first time we started to the gym.” Back home, and back at it, I haven’t yet reached my goal of going to the gym three times a week. But I do figure gym workouts are here to stay for me. The plentiful benefits like preventing loss of muscle mass and strength, improving mood and sleep, reducing the risk of osteoporosis, and improving balance which will help prevent falls are just too important to ignore. And, in the end, I love that amazing feeling I have after a workout. | For tips on getting started with a workout routine, visit www.seniorlivingmag. com/gym-workout-journey
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THE ENDURING CHARM OF ITALY’S POSITANO – THEN AND NOW Reflections on John Steinbeck’s 1953 Harper’s Bazaar Article by PAMELA & GARY BAKER Positano, the world’s most photographed fishing village, shines as the jewel of Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Its houses, built up the steep side of a towering hill, put every square inch to good use. Lush bougainvillea cascades over concrete walls. One narrow street winds up to the top of town where visitors can take in captivating views of the Tyrrhenian Sea below. The rest of the town is crisscrossed with stairs and steps, “some as steep as ladders,” wrote John Steinbeck in his famous 1953 travel essay in Harper’s Bazaar. “Positano,” writes Steinbeck, “bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” That was true then and remains true today. Positano has a way of weaving a spell over visitors, enchanting them when they arrive and haunting them after they leave. This small town of 4,000 is, for once, every bit as picturesque as the travel guides describe it. It beguiles and beckons, making you want to stay. Positano attracted large numbers of tourists after Steinbeck’s story made it famous. Many well-known artists, musicians, writers and stage and screen stars have visited or even made Positano their home, including Pablo Picasso, Lawrence Olivier, Paul Klee, and Rolling Stones’ Mick Jagger and Keith Richards. Renowned Italian movie director and producer, Franco Zeffirelli, lived in his Villa TreVille here for 35 years. Today, the town is home to the same number of inhabitants as when Steinbeck visited. The locals – affectionately known as Positanesi – and their town, appear unmarked by modernity. Paradoxically, Steinbeck’s essay changed the town, except that it didn’t. Steinbeck recognized the treasure he stumbled upon in Positano. In his essay, he warned, “Nearly always when you find a place as beautiful as Positano, your impulse is to conceal it.” In Steinbeck’s day, Positano was an unknown fishing village on
TOP LEFT | Positano viewed from the water. Photo: George Febish BOTTOM LEFT | La Fenice Bed & Breakfast’s saltwater pool with views of the sea. Photo: Pamela Baker PAGE 12 | Hillside construction and breathtaking views. Photo: George Febish 12 10
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the Amalfi Coast – and tourists were nowhere to be found. When he stayed here in 1953, he wrote that it was difficult to consider tourism an industry because “there are not enough (tourists).” Today, tourists flock to Positano. Droves of them arrive by ferry from nearby Sorrento or Capri. Tour busses shuttle hundreds of tourists here every morning. The town quickly fills up. The more adventurous arrive by car as Steinbeck did, or even the public bus, on the State Highway 163. Hugging the mountainside, this scenic road of a thousand turns provides a never-ending panorama of views with each more stunning than the last. Steinbeck’s wild ride into Positano is easily replicated today since the hazardous, narrow, cliffside road remains the same. In fact, traffic has increased since Steinbeck wrote his article. Our taxi ride from Sorrento was every bit the whiteknuckle trip that Steinbeck experienced. As he wrote, the Amalfi Drive “is carefully designed to be a little narrower than two cars side by side,” and the centre line a mere suggestion. From ravine to ravine, Positano begins to beckon out your window, appearing and disappearing like a flirtatious coquette. The perfect place to train for your next triathlon, Positano is built on a vertical axis, with endless staircases. It remains unchanged from the days
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University hearing study seeks participants.
Connect Hearing, with hearing researcher Professor Kathy Pichora-Fuller at the University of Toronto, seeks participants who are over 50 years of age and have never worn hearing aids for a hearing study investigating factors that can influence better hearing. All participants will have a hearing test provided at no charge and if appropriate, the clinician may discuss hearing rehabilitation options including hearing aids. Qualifying participants may also receive a demo of the latest hearing technology. The data collected from this study will be used to further our understanding of hearing loss and improve life-changing hearing healthcare across Canada. Why participate in the hearing study? Hearing problems typically result from damage to the ear and researchers have spent decades trying to understand the biology behind hearing loss. More importantly, researchers now realize the need to better understand how hearing loss affects your everyday life*. In this new hearing study,
CLIENT: CHCA
It is estimated that 46% of people aged 45 to 87 have some degree of hearing loss1, but most do not seek treatment right away. In fact, the average person with hearing loss will wait ten years before seeking help2. This is because at the beginning stages of hearing loss people often find they can “get by” without help, however as the problem worsens this becomes increasingly harder to do. For some people this loss of clarity is only a problem at noisy restaurants or in the car, but for others it makes listening a struggle throughout the entire day. By studying people who have difficulty hearing in noise or with television, we hope to identify key factors impacting these difficulties and further understand their influence on the treatment process.
If you are over 50 years of age and have never worn hearing aids, you can register to be a part of this new hearing study† by calling: 1.888.242.4892 or visiting connecthearing.ca/hearing-study.
* Pichora-Fuller, M. K. (2016). How social psychological factors may modulate auditory and cognitive functioning during listening. Ear and Hearing, 37, 92S-100S. † Study participants must be over 50 years of age and have never worn hearing aids. No fees and no purchase necessary. Registered under the College of Speech and Hearing Health Professionals of BC. VAC, WCB accepted. 1. Cruickshanks, K. L., Wiley, T. L., Tweed, T. S., Klein, B. E. K., Klein, R, Mares-Perlman, J. A., & Nondahl, D. M. (1998). Prevalence of Hearing Loss in Older Adults in Beaver Dam, Wisconsin: The Epidemiology of Hearing Loss Study. Am. J. Epidemiol. 148 (9), 879-886. 2. National Institutes of Health. (2010).
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Professor Pichora-Fuller and her team are trying to find out how people learn to live with hearing loss and how new solutions could help these people take action sooner and live life more fully.
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when Steinbeck visited. Its houses still climb a hill “so steep it would be a cliff except that stairs are cut in it,” Steinbeck describes. The casual visitor needs to be in good shape to properly tour this town! At the foot of town, Steinbeck found, “The small curving bay of unbelievably blue and green water laps gently on a beach of small pebbles.” Today, along the curve of beach, just in front of Marina Grande’s jumble of restaurants and bars, sunbeds are lined up side by side waiting for sun worshippers. Outdoor diners linger over a glass of Campari and plates of fried, herbed calamari, taking in the action on the small, crowded beach. From their tables, diners watch the ferries come and go. There’s no shortage of restaurants or bars nestled up to the beach. They cascade one-on-top-of-the-other from the top of the hill, from where you can enjoy the view while sipping Asti Spumante.
Positano’s industry in Steinback’s day was fishing – anchovies and squids – with some shoemaking, carpentry, and arts and crafts thrown in. Fishermen, once the dominant workforce, now function as a cooperative group, supplying local kitchens. Hardy fishermen are seen on the beach, cleaning the hulls of their colourful boats and mending their fishing nets throughout the day, seemingly oblivious to the surrounding throngs of tourists. By night the tourists are gone and the lucky few that have booked lodging in Positano can enjoy the music and the stars and the uncrowded moonlit beaches. Despite the unrelenting tourism, Positano’s chief export, its beauty and relaxed lifestyle, remain its most precious commodity. Positano is all about easy-come-elegance found in its restaurants, its food and its accommodations. Homey comforts can be found at La Fenice and super luxury can be had at Le Sirenuse, where Steinbeck stayed while writing his essay. Looking out from the balcony of our apartment at La Fenice on the glistening Tyrrhenian Sea, the horizon, a constant straight line, we were mesmerized by the juxtaposition of deep ocean blue and light azure sky. Huge, white, private luxury yachts anchored in the calm 14 12
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of the cove dwarf the local runabouts and smaller single-engine boats moored nearby. Looking like smaller versions of the giant passenger ferries, these boats seem uninhabited during the day, their tenders having delivered their upscale guests to the shore earlier in the day. At night, their three or four storied decks light up so brightly the water near them glows. Some turn on underwater lights on floating stair cases, awaiting their tenders’ return from the town piers with guests that toured and dined in town. The yachts may not be there the next morning, disappearing like streamlined aquatic ghost ships in the night. Clouds come and go as does the rain each day. Rubens could have painted the sky here. Weather in September seems tropical and humid. The pace of life here is best described as idle. Visitors occupy a good part of their day by strolling narrow alleys lined with shops, or they sit in cafés, sipping espresso coffee. Multicoloured villas, hotels and casas are stacked up the hill. A church fronts the beach. Restaurants are nestled up against her lemon-coloured walls and dominated by her green and yellow, Moorish patterned, Majolica tiled dome. Positano’s narrow streets are cut knifelike into the side of the cliff. They fill briefly with Vespa exhaust and echo with the strained buzz of small-motor scooter engines. With barely enough room for pedestrians, the sidewalks are crammed between the wrought iron fence at the edge of the cliff and the curb. Tourists and locals mix cheerfully alongside one another in their slow, downhill strolls to the seaside restaurants. The crosstown traverse is both uphill and down as the streets cling to the cliff contours. Walking along Route 163 today, you can experience what Steinbeck didn’t in 1953. Buses almost too big for the winding road hacked out of the cliffside, blast their horns while blindly taking the hairpin turns, appear every two to three minutes. Backpackers parade in single file along the cliff road ignoring the peril of the steep drop-off or the constant oncoming lines of cars, buses and motorcycles. Helmeted riders on motorcycles roar past, leaning low into each narrow turn of the roadway like angry hornets buzzing toward their nests. Occasionally, the deafening roar of an armada of enormous Harleys fills the air. Despite these roadway perils, you can still see today how Positano bit deep into Steinbeck. The ocean view from the hotels, or even the tourist bus stop at the top of the hill, is stunning. When you’re here, you feel “it” – Positano’s bite. And we found that to be so true as we lounged our afternoons away at La Fenice, beside the saltwater pool overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. We met a guest from Istanbul who said she has been coming to Positano for years. Other travellers we met in town say the same thing. All return to Positano. Once the spell is cast, visitors can’t help returning again and again. Such is the mesmeric timelessness of Positano as it was then for Steinbeck and as it is now. Except for the perpetual ebb and flow of tourists, it remains unmarked. An old destination that continues to renew its spectacular charms on waves of visitors daily. | For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag.com/ positano-then-and-now
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If you think BC is beautiful, help your great grandchildren to agree.
Nature Trust Property: Twin Lakes Photo: Graham Osborne
BC’s critical natural habitats need protecting. That’s been our mission since 1971. As a non-profit organization, we’ve helped protect and restore over 175,000 acres of ecologically sensitive land throughout the province. But much remains to be done to protect BC’s incredible natural diversity. If you’d like to help with this task, we would be grateful for your donation. What’s more, future generations will thank you. To learn more about us or make a donation, please visit naturetrust.bc.ca or call 1.866.288.7878 WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM
OCTOBER 2018
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DIVINING HAPPINESS by J. KATHLEEN THOMPSON Happiness is a perennial hot topic for, as it turns out, it is not as simple as it sounds. Like “the art of living” or “the meaning of life,” it is fiendishly difficult to define, let alone achieve, and hence has been the subject of intense scrutiny for centuries. Today, you’ll find countless books – from the Dalai Lama’s Art of Happiness and Gretchen Rubin’s Happiness Project to Neil Pasricha’s Happiness Equation – offering suggestions for a sunnier way forward. Dominating the happiness front are the “positive psychologists” – those psychologists confident there are identifiable scientific underpinnings to a happy, fulfilling life. Coined by Martin Seligman in 1998, positive psychology plumbs the wisdom of a vast spectrum of precedents – humanistic psychology, ancient philosophy, Eastern spiritual beliefs – to support its particular equation for happiness. Central to the equation seems to be to what degree happiness is found “within” (oneself) and/or “without” (in interactions with the world). In his recent book A Happiness Hypothesis, positive psychologist Jonathan Haidt borrows from ancient Stoic 16 14
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and Buddhist teachings to arrive at his happiness hypothesis or theory. Using the rider and the elephant as metaphorical stand-ins for mind and emotions, he suggests (in true Stoic/ Buddhist/Taoist fashion) that by retraining the elephant, we can achieve the inner harmony needed to sail effortlessly, or at least less tumultuously, through life. Emotion or passions are not inherently problematic, it’s that they often confuse the issue when we automatically deploy them – in the form of deep-seated judgments, biases, values, assumptions and compulsive thinking – when dealing with people and situations in our lives. We are prone to pronouncing or labelling things as “bad” or troublesome when a more philosophical viewpoint might allow us to calmly assess the situation and thereby reduce undue emotional distress. Our philosophical voice is the one that reminds us to “not sweat the small stuff,” “rise above,” “choose your battles,” etc. While this is a great strategy for maintaining our emotional equilibrium, does that mean “disengaging” is always a prerequisite for happiness? No, and it was the Stoics who identified the most instructive way of determining what
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deserved our emotional energy, and what didn’t. A school of philosophy founded by Zeno of Citium, Cyprus, and which flourished during the zenith of Hellenic civilization (301-31 BCE), the Stoics were the ones who felt that if you could distinguish between what is up to us and what is not, then one was well along the path to emotional freedom and happiness. Referred to as “the Stoic fork,” this theory has been enshrined in The Serenity Prayer: “Lord, give me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, courage to change the things I can, and wisdom to know the difference.” To a Stoic, the things we must accept, because they are beyond our direct control, are extrinsic factors such as natural occurrences, other people, fame, status, power, reputation, wealth, even health, life, death and love. The things that we can change or develop are intrinsic, i.e. ourselves. Cultivating certain virtues – wisdom, justice (benevolence), courage and self-discipline – are within our control and are esteemed and honourable ways to achieve arete, or excellence of character. If one focused energy on oneself, and the goodness of one’s intentions and diligence, what transpires (so often subject to the whims of fortune) is “indifferent” or immaterial. This wholehearted dedication to the development of one’s arete – also known as the diamon or divine spark – was believed to bring one into harmony with oneself, with others and ultimately with the cosmos. And where there is harmony, there is happiness. And while the Stoics, like Aristotle who said that “happiness depends on oneself,” are clearly behind the idea that “happiness is found within,” or that “you must run your own race,” one could not be considered virtuous, and live harmoniously in the world without a degree of benevolence towards others. As Marcus Aurelius, a proponent of Stoicism, was known to say, “one must be free from passion, yet full of love.”
Storytelling at its best, up close and live at Victoria’s Royal Theatre Primatologist & TV Correspondent, Mireya Mayor Pink Boots and a Machete Tuesday, November 13, 2018 Photographer, Florian Schulz Into the Arctic Kingdom Wednesday, February 27, 2019 NASA Engineer, Kobie Boykins Exploring Mars Wednesday, May 8, 2019
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Indeed, philanthropy was considered the highest virtue of a sage or “great soul.” Arete and personal happiness could not be achieved without serving others. Not surprisingly, the positive psychologists today agree. Jonathan Haidt hypothesizes that happiness lies “between”: between one’s individual self-development and engagement in personally gratifying tasks and in knowing that one’s work serves or has meaning WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM
for others. Happiness found within and without is likely a common conclusion to most happiness hypotheses given it recognizes our individual and socio-cultural needs. But, should you lose your notes from the last symposium on happiness, just remember the words still heard in Greece upon departing: sto kalo, which means “go for the good” and you’ll be headed in the right direction. | OCTOBER 2018
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SAILING INTO TIMELESS WONDER by RICK & CHRIS MILLIKAN A Mediterranean cruise offers an extraordinary overview of early civilizations. Adding extra days in the heart of Athens, our initial investigations feature the glorious temples of the Acropolis. And in the new three-story Acropolis museum, we peruse wondrous Greek golden age art. Another day’s walk focuses on the Roman district admiring Hadrian’s ornamental gate and Jupiter’s immense temple. Then, after browsing Plaka’s little shops, we head to nearby Piraeus and board our ship. Settled in a spacious cabin, we choose 10 enticing port excursions. From the port of Athens, our first venture on a comfy motorcoach winds northeast past historic Marathon and Thebes to Delphi, perched on Mount Parnassus. Zigzagging up the Sacred Way, we behold the legendary stone Zeus threw around the world, marking Delphi as a sacred vortex. White marble columns identify Apollo’s temple, consecrated by his slaying of a python. Here, middle-aged oracles intoxicated by laurel leaves spoke garbled “advice” to others; priests interpreted their gibberish as divine, prophetic puzzles. Etched on temple walls, 47 maxims – including know thyself – endure as Delphi’s true wisdom. Honouring Apollo, Delphi’s Pythian games began at the mountainside amphitheatre; poets, musicians and dancers staged performances for over 5,000 attendees. Development of the games continued. At the now crumbling stadium, everyone can imagine early athletes in competition: hurling discs, throwing javelins, running, jumping, wrestling and boxing. 18 16
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Back aboard, flutes of champagne toast our 15-day voyage. Gently rocked to sleep, tasty breakfasts fuel the next morning’s excursion. Unlike larger ships, the elegant Viking Star easily docks at Mykonos, facilitating our transfer onto a nearby ferry. Shuttled to Delos Sanctuary, our walk passes the ruins of the gymnasium and agora once serving 40,000 inhabitants. Nearby, a 7th century BC temple celebrates the birth of Apollo and twin sister Artemis in a nearby lake. Villas in the theatre district reveal marble-columned courtyards enclosing remnants of statuary, murals and decorative mosaic floors. House of Dionysus pictures wine god Dionysus riding a panther; House of Masks displays several of his mischievous faces. Being arid, households collected rainwater in cisterns under their beautiful mosaic floors. The island’s main water source was a 300 BC reservoir found adjacent to the nearby amphitheatre. Built by Egyptian and Assyrian merchants, mountainside temples venerating Isis and Baal stand above. This amazing cosmopolitan trade centre had flourished almost 3,000 years ago.
ABOVE | The Viking Star cruiseship in port at Rhodes. PAGE 18 | The authors bound for Acropolis above Lindos. TOC PAGE | Herculaneum old below, new above, with Mt Vesuvius beyond. Photos: Rick & Chris Millikan
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In Rhodes, a revered acropolis inspires travel to Lindos. Hiking past village shops, chapel and homes, we wind up a steep trail leading to a stone gateway. Inside, we see a large 180 BC rock carving of a Rhodian trireme warship. Stairs take us up into a crusader-built castle. Its courtyard and a dim-lit room once covered votives, gifts for Athena Lindia. Emerging onto a terrace, 42 lofty columns outline a Portico that then sheltered pilgrims. A stairway rises upward, as if ascending into heaven. Reaching the top, another shorter stairway accesses a sanctuary long predating Athens’ own acropolis. Two rows of four columns outline Temple of Athena Lindia. Two fixtures remain atop its platform: a stone base, once holding the goddess’s gold-capped statue, and marble altar. Animal sacrifices seem doubtful, as remnants of charcoal or blood were never found. Evidence of wicker baskets for produce further suggest that Athena Lindia was a vegetarian. In Cypress, a motorcoach takes us to Aphrodite’s fabled birthplace. “Her presence makes this beach very popular. Some come to swim around that offshore isle, believing every lap reduces their age by one year!” our guide grins. “Like to take a dip?” Israel’s Ports of Ashdod and Haifa offer trips to Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Acre, Galilee, Masada and Tel Aviv. During our travels, local tour guides highlight high-tech industries, innovative farming and harmonious multi-cultural communities. South of Haifa, Caesarium reflects King Herod’s new “Romanized” city, complete with aqueducts, bathhouses, fountains… and public urinals. His sumptuous palace even includes bathing pools, recalling his lifestyle in the city he’d built and
dedicated to Caesar. The Romans also enhanced familiar Greek structures such as its amphitheatre. Rabbis notably forbade attendance at pagan events there. Indicating a respect for Rome, a nearby limestone block contains Pontius Pilate’s inscribed tribute to Emperor Tiberius. At sea, passengers like us attend historians’ thought-provoking presentations delving into Greek, Judean and Roman cultures… and watch similarly insightful programs on cabin televisions. In every dining area, complimentary wine accompanies delicious gourmet meals, including traditional foods of visited cultures. One onboard restaurant serves scrumptious Italian cuisine; another offers experiences pairing wines with several courses of palate pleasers. In the upper lounge, we join teams to test our collective brain trivia. These contests generate thoughtful discussions and jolly camaraderie. From Naples, many shipmates visit Pompeii; we visit smaller Herculaneum. From a lofty viewpoint, Herculaneum’s excavated AD 79 neighbourhoods seem remarkably intact. Mount Vesuvius’s eruption buried – and preserved – both Roman ports. Descending a tunnel and crossing a bridge, we start at the wharf where skeletons sprawl under former boathouse archways. In an upper plaza, a public fountain sports a spout fashioned as a bearded mouth; another, a lovely gowned woman. Their water flowed continuously, flushing the streets. Inside the public bathhouse, black-and-white tile floors conjure porpoises, a sea goddess and octopus. One “fast-food” eatery, known as a thermidor, still features its marble heating table and stew pots. Terra cotta wine and olive oil jars line the fragmented wall.
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Among the elegant villas, the dining room in House of Neptune and Amphitrite showcases an exquisite glass mosaic of this mythic couple. Mother of pearl frames hunting scenes; marble theatrical masks decorate an alcove. Beyond, Hall of the Augustales represents a wealthy fellowship that organized imperial events. Central columns retain pedestals for Julius and Augustus Caesars’ statues. An alcove fresco pictures Hercules seated beside Juno, Queen of Gods, and Minerva, Goddess of Wisdom. Another shows Hercules battling for Deianira’s love. From Citavechia, we visit Ostia, Rome’s major port until AD 300. The lavish redbrick Baths of Neptune demonstrate Ostia’s wealth and importance. Restored mosaic floors picture hippocampi, horse-like sea creatures pulling Neptune’s chariot amid swirling dolphins, sea nymphs, armed tritons and freakish serpents. In other chambers, wife Amphitrite rides another hippocampus, naked gymnasts box and wrestle. Among other impressive buildings, a two-storied thermidor features a marble counter, wall menu and stone benches lining a courtyard. Close by, a 2nd century, three-tiered amphitheatre proves equally upscale. Behind, waterfront warehouse floors convey port images including: a lighthouse, numerous sea creatures and triangular-sailed galleys.
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Fall Foliage of the Cascades: October 15th-18th
4 days 6 meals. WOW! What an explosion of colour you will experience on this tour as well as relaxing in your luxurious waterfront accommodations at Lake Chelan. Enjoy a private cruise tour , tour and taste the uniquely handcrafted wines of Lake Chelan Winery. Leavenworth is a great town to discover treasures in the European shops and Octoberfest. $995 Cdn pp dble occ. NO GST. $1275 Cdn Single.
Chemainus Theatre and Butchart Gardens
December 4th - 6th: 3 Days A great way to start your Christmas Season. Join us on Vancouver Island as we experience the spectacular Butchart Gardens Christmas lights and a Christmas production, at the Chemainus Theatre, lunch buffet and the Christmas lights of Ladysmith. $745 Cdn. pp dble occ. plus GST. $885 Single plus GST
Leavenworth and Warm Beach Christmas lighting Festivals
Dec 13-16th. 4 Days Highlights: Dinner theatre at Warm Beach Camp in Stanwood, WA. which is covered in dazzling light displays and the holiday sounds of Victorian Carolers. A horse drawn sleigh ride, the lighting Festival in the Bavarian town of Leavenworth, WA and a traditional Bavarian dinner. $875 Cdn pp dble occ. No GST. Book 60 days in advance and save $50 pp.
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BC Reg # 3561
A lane under Roman archways takes us to an industrial-sized bakery. Donkey hoof tracks mark stony floors. One chamber contains 10 basalt millstones; another, large lava bowls slotted for kneading blades; a third, an immense wood-fired oven. An alcove mural pictures several gods, well placed for help in creating divine bread! Worldly Ostia embraced and respected diverse religions. Large forum temples honour Roman gods Jupiter, Juno, Minerva, Victoria and Emperor Augustus. Additional temples recognize Anatolian goddess Magma Mater, Attis, god of vegetation and Judaic Jehovah. And one chapel acclaims Christ. A small onsite museum exhibits other deities as artwork, including our favourite: a sublime white marble sculpture of Cupid and Amor kissing. Our daily activities have sparked contemplations of the distant past. Surveying beliefs, lifestyles and advancements of early civilizations, we return home with insights into their enduring cultures… and renewed hope for humanity. | For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag.com/ cruising-the-mediterranean
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HYDRA: WALKING PAST MONASTERIES AND MARIANNE RIGHT INTO REBETIKO by J. KATHLEEN THOMPSON It was the quintessential night on a Greek island: a vineladen terrace bestrewn with blue and white checkered tablecloths, platters of calamari and retsina issuing from the kitchen, waiters nimbly negotiating the narrow pathways between tables, the air seared with the sensuality of a warm night and the sounds of a single bouzouki. On this night, a lyra, a female vocalist and the dulcimer tones of a Persian sandhu join the bouzouki. The music is full-throated and distinctly Eastern in flavour. We are celebrating the conclusion of a Rebetiko Music Festival on the island and are among the grateful throngs standing retsina-less at the side. Grateful that the sell-out concert could accommodate the late-comers, and happy that we are part of the audience who are standing “in ovation” for the musicians who had given us such a wonderful weekend of this once outlawed music. Rebetiko music had not been on our radar when we stopped in Hydra during our month-long meander through the Greek Islands. Rather, we had aimed for Hydra because we were on a quest for 1) great walks, and 2) the Canadian songwriter laureate, Leonard Cohen (or at least, a glimpse into the reason he had chosen Hydra as a writer’s haven). We arrived via ferry and were greeted by that archetypal Greek island scene: a pier thrumming with people and activity, faces alight with anticipation, voices calling out greetings, cafés jumping to attention, and ferry crews bent on maintaining control in the confusion. And in Hydra, donkeys. Perfectly poised teams of donkeys waiting for the stevedores’ commands. Motorized transport is prohibited on the island, except for emergency and sanitation vehicles, so donkeys are ubiquitous. The new refrigerator and month’s supply of water bound for the hill-top monastery? They get loaded on a donkey. We credit the donkeys as well for the blissful soundscape that greeted us on Hydra, where the 22 20
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J church bells, the roosters, the laughter, the sounds of the ricocheting soccer ball, the children’s calls and the donkey’s hooves on the cobblestones seem to blend seamlessly with the silence. What a pleasure it was to walk through the narrow winding streets and to follow well-marked signs that led to the less explored regions of the island. Twenty minutes into the hills, we were surrounded by pine forests, the island’s wild horses and, as always in Greece, the remote hill-top monasteries and the vast blue of the Mediterranean. A particular joy on Hydra was ferreting out the fabled Cohen home on the island – the one he had lived in during the ’60s with his Norwegian muse, Marianne Jensen. The years in Hydra had been seminal for Cohen, allowing him to immerse himself in his writing and imagine a future as a poet and songwriter.
M F ABOVE | The author hiking on Hydra. PAGE 21 | Donkeys are ubiquitous on Hydra. PAGE 22 | A Rebetiko musician. TOC PAGE | Wild horses roam the island of Hydra. Photos: J. Kathleen Thompson
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His house lies snug amongst others on a hill overlooking the harbour and is predictably modest, unmarked and shuttered. We trace his probable route down to a favourite swimming platform at the entrance to the harbour. I plunge in, revelling in the clarity of the Mediterranean so close to town, imagining the heat of those summer days that would have coaxed Cohen down to the sea each afternoon. What manna for my imagination and memories still flush with the sound and vision of ’60s songwriting to relive this magical time for Cohen so many years later! I was not the only one seduced by this “oracle of my youth,” but the Cohen legend is thankfully carefully guarded on Hydra – no line-ups, and apart from the occasional furtive photographer outside his house, you can pay your respects in peace. The nostalgia for the bohemian ’60s didn’t end with Cohen. Posters around town advertising the upcoming Rebetiko Music Festival – a music that had also flourished during the ’60s in Greece – suggested that we linger a little while longer on Hydra. It proved to be a wise and exhilarating decision! Rebetiko music, with roots in Anatolia, was fashioned in the ghettos of Piraeus and Athens after the population exchange between Turkey and Greece in the 1920s. It is the folk music of the displaced, the political outsider, the social pariah, and wonderfully marries the modalities familiar to musicians all along the Silk Road. A synthesis of Turkish, Greek, Arab, Persian and Jewish musical traditions, rebetiko gave expression to the experience
of the exiled. Themes of love, loss, work, war, poverty, death and violence are embedded in the soul and sound of rebetiko music. Rhythms and melodies are drawn from the cross-cultural traditions and instruments in a rebetiko ensemble are likewise diverse: lyra, santur, guitar, clarinet, oud, tsimbalo, violin, double bass, piano and accordion. The instrument that is emblematic of rebetiko – the bouzouki – became more prominent as the musical form developed in Greece. Commonly associated with the ouzeri and hashish dens –
Join INSPIRED Columnist Pat Nichol on this Trip of a Lifetime!
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Booking Deadline: Nov 2, 2018 LIMITED SEATS
Preview Presentation Wednesday, Oct 24th, 6:30 pm Victoria, BC RSVP
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Croatia, Slovenia & the Adriatic Coast Trip Departure May 2, 2019
| 12 Days • 16 Meals
Medieval Architecture • Tranquil Lakes • Local Villages • Croatian charm. Featuring Dubrovnik, Dalmation Coast, Split, Istrian Peninsula and Lake Bled. Including the Diocletian’s Palace, a Pletna boat ride on Lake Bled, farm to table cuisine, Opatija (Croatia’s Riviera, a retreat for Habsburg Monarchs), the 16 cascading lakes at Plitvice Lakes National Park, a Cilipi family-style dinner, Zagreb and more!
Croatia’s scenery is so spectacular it was used as the setting for the hit movie Game of Thrones. Dubrovnik is considered one of the world’s bucket list cities. Pat Nichol is looking forward to joining you on this amazing Collette tour in 2019. You’re in good company and in good hands! More info at: www.seniorlivingmag.com/tours
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Croatia and its surrounding region has been voted one of the top travel destinations in the world. You’ll be fascinated by its history and culture, and awed by its sheer beauty. WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM Don’t miss this chance to join Pat Nichol on this amazing Croatian adventure.
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and considered by both Turkish and Greek governments to be either too degenerate or “Oriental” in nature – rebetiko music was forced underground in the 1930s. “Cleaned-up” versions of rebetiko music began to re-emerge in the 1960s and, with the growing worldwide popularity of the bouzouki, the rebetiko revival had begun. Today, rebetiko’s storied past and distinctive musical idiom attract both the scholarly and musical community, the intersection of which we were privileged to witness on that October weekend in Hydra. While some of the academic presentations were specially aimed at “the insider” (algorithms of Persian music, anyone?), others – like learning that a dominant scale used in rebetiko music is shared by Jewish Klezmer, Iranian, South Arabic and Flamenco music – help us understand rebetiko’s close relationship with the Middle East. The presentations are interspersed with performances – some held in the famed Melina Mercouri auditorium (named after the Greek actress and a former Minister of Culture) and others in appropriately “shady” cafés. One concert features a Greek singer and a Scottish bouzouki player, who balance their Greek rebetiko repertoire with explorations into Celtic music. Suspended in this glorious web of sounds, ideas and cultures, we didn’t seem to mind that we had lost the trail on Hydra and walked past the monasteries – and Marianne – right into rebetiko! | For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag.com/ hydra-rebetiko
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d d Bu Starring ZACHARY STEVENSON From the Hit Musical
“The BUDDY HOLLY STORY”
Plus added Attractions... From The Million Dollar Quartet
Lance Lipinsky as Jerry Lee Lewis Jonathan Lyons as Johnny Cash and Ben Klein as Young Elvis...
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OCTOBER 2018
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TURKEY: HISTORY, ART AND HEART by KATE ROBERTSON For just a moment, the world stands still. I float in an otherworldly illusion as sunlight streams through the windows at the base of the dome – bright light reflects off golden mosaics and floating angels. It’s been my dream to visit Hagia Sophia, once the largest cathedral in the world, since an art history class piqued my interest in Byzantine art. Sophia’s exterior is equally as stunning with her pink hugeness. Like the city itself, she has survived fires, sieges and destruction, and time after time has risen out of the ashes. After the Ottoman Conquest of Constantinople in 1453, as Istanbul was then called, Sophia was conveniently repurposed into a mosque with the addition of minarets and a mihrab. In 1935, the Republic of Turkey’s first president, the revered Ataturk, transformed the building into a museum to preserve both dynasties. This area is filled with ancient history. Down the street is the Hippodrome, the sporting and social centre where common folks and nobility mingled, cheering their chariots to victory. The racetrack was two metres below today’s pavement, but the current sidewalk delineates its path. Around the corner is the 6th century Basilica Cistern, another architectural triumph that bears testimony to the Romans’ construction abilities. A 52-stone-steps descent takes you to the underground world that once held up to 80,000 cubic metres of water. There is even beauty here, as many of the 336 columns were salvaged from temple ruins. 26 24
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The ambiance is peaceful and creepy all at once, hence popular for movie scenes like the one in James Bond: From Russia With Love. But Istanbul is not a city stuck in antiquity. Even here in this historical neighbourhood, the streets look European, lined with modern-day shops and patio cafés, inviting with their colourful awnings, unique Turkish tea sets, and tantalizing food smells. Ataturk secularized Turkey in the 1920s, and in this bustling city of 20 million, many women no longer wear the traditional burqa or even a headscarf. Most Turks still identify as Muslim though, and the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer can be heard five times a day. The modern is glaringly apparent at the Istanbul Modern Art Museum. Built only in 2005, it’s still the oldest in Turkey. During the Ottoman period, images were forbidden, so initially, painters were all foreign. Today, Turkish artists abound, and the genre tends to be figurative, rather than abstract. An hour-flight to the centre of the country takes me somewhere completely different. Cappadocia has been a flat, desert
ABOVE | Amphitheatre, Ephesus. PAGE 25 | Walking cobblestoned streets, Alacati. PAGE 26 | Kind couple in their cave house, Mustafapasa. TOC PAGE | The Library of Celsus is an ancient Roman building in Ephesus, Turkey. Photos: Kate Robertson
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farming region on the Anatolian steppes for centuries. Mixed in the middle of this farming landscape are magical rock formations and “fairy chimneys,” resulting from erosion over the centuries of soft lava (tuff) from millions of years’ old volcanic activity. Civilization here dates back as far as the Hittite Empire in 1600 BC or so. There is evidence of 36 underground cities, sculpted into the tuff. At Kaymakli, one such troglodyte city, as I descend through the levels of tunnels, I try to imagine what it was like to live here, in the dark. Kaymakli dates back as far as 8-7 century BC, but when the Christians took over (hiding from persecution) they expanded the tunnels, adding chapels and inscriptions to the existing stables, kitchens, living quarters and wine cellars. Modern day houses were also constructed around the tunnels. Our tour company pulls some strings, and we visit a traditional cave house in the village of Mustafapasa. The initial part of the house is above-ground, but the naturally-cool storage rooms and cellars, filled with homemade pickles and preserves, are tunneled into the adjacent hill. The owners are gracious hosts, insisting that we try samples of their homemade wine and grape molasses (they swear a spoonful each morning in the winter keeps colds away), and pressing fruit into our hands to take with us. In this area, it’s not unusual for people to leave their homes open, so in case a neighbour comes by, they can come in and make themselves at home.
My final destination is the Izmir region on the shores of the Aegean, with one of the mildest climates in the country (called the California of Turkey). With settlements tracing back to 3,000 BC, it maintains its traditions as a wine, olive and fig growing region. Despite its ancient roots, residents of modern-day Izmir take pride in the fact that it’s the most progressive city in Turkey. This is the perfect base to explore wind-surfing and beaches, wine-tasting vineyard tours, or Cesme Marina (just 30 minutes
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OCTOBER 2018
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from the Greek Island of Chios), where there are yachts and sailboats as far as the eye can see. My favourite, however, is charming Alacati. From my room in a restored mansion, I can look down on the narrow, cobblestoned walking streets. The original white washed houses with their brightly painted shutters and doors, are now quaint shops, art galleries and cute bistros. This old part of the city looks like a Greek isle painting. A trip to Izmir would not be complete without making the drive along the stunning Aegean coastline to the ancient Greek city, Ephesus. As I walk through the gigantic columns into the Library of Celsus, I wonder what it would have been like in AD 117 when it stored 12,000 scrolls, the third largest library in the world at that time. Equally as awe-inspiring is the amphitheatre, capable of holding 25,000 spectators, and amazingly intact today.
At Ephesus, like everywhere I’ve seen in Turkey, stray cats roam free, living off the kindness of locals who feed them. I’m not surprised at this generosity, as the Turks I meet are kind and friendly. They’re passionate about their country and upset at the current political problems (Turks love to discuss politics and soccer, as it turns out). All yearn for peaceful times. I recall my visit to Galeri Nev art gallery in the Karakoy district in Istanbul, where I was mesmerized by Inci Eviner’s Ordinary Condition multi-media video, which depicts movement through violent destruction one moment and people carrying on with their daily lives the next. “Eviner wants to depict that the worst danger is getting used to all this,” says the young gallery attendant, “but this has been the history of Turkey for centuries, as civilizations have fought over the country. We’ve always had to pick up and move on. We know we will survive.” This is the heart of Turkey. | For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag.com/ turkey-travel 28 26
INSPIRED SENIOR LIVING
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Forever Fit PLANT-BASED FOCUS
FOR LONG-TERM HEALTH by EVE LEES It’s not a fad; all sources agree improving your health and lowering your risk for many diseases is as simple as eating more plant foods. Does this mean you have to become a vegetarian or vegan? No. But there is a growing awareness that plant-based foods should be the main focus and have top priority when designing your snacks and meals. Plant-based foods include vegetables, fruit, whole grains, beans, nuts and seeds: basically, anything that grows from the earth. Moderate amounts of lean protein, such as chicken and fish and low-fat dairy (or alternatives) can also be included in a healthy diet. Prioritize eating the unprocessed, whole food versions of plant foods. You’ll ensure a low consumption of added sugars, sodium and trans fats because fresh foods have none of these added to them. VEGETABLES are low-calorie, low fat, but high in fibre. And they offer high amounts of antioxidants or “disease fighters.” Choose from a wide variety of vegetables (and a variety of colours) to guarantee you get the many different nutrients necessary for the most health benefits. Have at least five servings daily – and there is no limit to how much you have! FRUIT also provides a rich source of antioxidants. And fruit can take the place of the not-so-healthy “sweets” providing far more nutrients and fewer calories. Aim for at least three servings of fruit daily. WHOLE GRAINS offer fibre, which can lower risk of diabetes and control cholesterol levels. Fibre is also vital for contributing to balanced gut microbiota, which research suspects may be important for a strong immune system. Make the effort to eat your grains “whole” and not ground into flour. This means skipping the bread more often and, instead, eating whole grains cooked on the stove. Cook all “whole grains” exactly as you would cook rice: one part grain to two parts water. BEANS also contain fibre and offer an excellent source of protein. Low in saturated fat, they can replace the higher saturated fat sources of animal protein. This can help lower the risk of developing high cholesterol levels and heart disease. NUTS AND SEEDS are also good sources of fibre and protein. In addition, they offer a healthy source of fat es-
sential for many bodily functions, including the health of your brain and your skin. Due to their fat and protein content, nuts can help you feel full, so they are a smart choice for a healthy snack. In fact, those who eat a small serving of nuts daily generally weigh less than those who don’t. Enjoy one or two servings of nuts daily (one serving is about one ounce). The next time you sit down to eat, be conscious of having lots of “plants,” especially vegetables, on your plate! | Eve Lees is a Certified Nutrition Coach, a Health Writer & Speaker, and a former Personal Trainer with over 30 years experience in the health/fitness industry. www.artnews-healthnews.com
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MR. DRESSED UP by JOHN KELLY What better way to get dressed than to have someone else dress you? I’m not sure, but I don’t think my memory is what it used to be. One foggy recollection always gives me the warm fuzzies: I can feel my mother sliding warm, cotton socks over my little feet, pulling them half way up my smooth, hairless shin. A kiss on the forehead, and I was off. Fast forward 50 years. Drag the needle across the record… you know what the sound means. “You’re wearing that?” It’s not your mother’s voice. Okay, fellas, you’re done. Back to your mancave while I have a word with your gals. Now, ladies, if you want to avoid having to ask this of your husband, take some preemptive measures. Literally. If you don’t know his size (we’re forever changing; it’s the only constant), get out the tape measure, ask, check his closet and, while you’re at it, his drawers. Then, the fun starts. Shopping. Mixing. Matching. Plumage. If he doesn’t already know how, you’ll have to give him a lesson in strutting. You’ll probably be surprised at just how amenable we, as men, are
to “being dressed” – having our wardrobes bought for us, our outfits picked. It takes us back to that innocent time, a time with no consequences for our choice of attire. The reason we like to let you make the apparel decisions is, of course, a little selfish, too. When the wardrobe choice is yours, it saves us the time and effort it takes to impress you. See, you have already decided your guy will look good in this or that. The men get a sense of accomplishment. The trick is in allowing your man to have absolutely no agency in the process while letting him believe he does. Treat him like a mannequin, and he’ll never want to be a man again, at least where getting dressed is concerned. The headlessness will take a little getting used to… One caveat, however, deserves your attention: as the dresser, you assume absolute responsibility. This is all well and fine when the compliments on your husband’s appearance roll in like a medley of smooth, autumn waves. But what happens when things get a little salty? Well, I’ve never seen it happen, if the wife has done her due diligence. If, however, the compliments dry up, feathers get ruffled, and your peacock turns on you, hit him with a tried and true statement of fact. Look him in the eye, and tell him, “I’m not your mother.” |
䠀䄀刀刀䤀匀伀一 䠀伀吀 匀倀刀䤀一䜀匀
䠀椀欀攀 ⸀⸀⸀ 䈀椀欀攀 ⸀⸀⸀ 匀漀愀欀 ⸀⸀⸀ 倀愀搀搀氀攀 ⸀⸀⸀ 䜀漀氀昀 ⸀⸀⸀ 䘀椀猀栀 ⸀⸀⸀ 刀攀氀愀砀 ⸀⸀⸀ 圀栀愀琀攀瘀攀爀 礀漀甀爀 瀀氀攀愀猀甀爀攀 䠀愀爀爀椀猀漀渀 䠀漀琀 匀瀀爀椀渀最猀 栀愀猀 猀漀洀攀琀栀椀渀最 琀漀 漀昀昀攀爀⸀ 䠀漀琀 匀瀀爀椀渀最猀 䠀愀爀爀礀 眀漀渀搀攀爀猀 ᰠ眀栀愀琀 愀爀攀 礀漀甀 眀愀椀琀椀渀最 昀漀爀㼀ᴠ
眀眀眀⸀琀漀甀爀椀猀洀栀愀爀爀椀猀漀渀⸀挀漀洀 30 28
INSPIRED SENIOR LIVING
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REBOOT by VERENA FOXX DAVID WONG, an accomplished architect and author with a biology background that led him to initiate Save the Frogs Day in Vancouver schools, is adamant about leaving a civic legacy of diversity that embraces tolerance. He was recognized for his community building and environmental design work with a QE II Diamond Jubilee Medal in 2012. A fifth generation East VancouverDavid Wong Photo: Cameron Wong ite of Chinese descent, David believes in sharing the stories and wisdoms of all cultures that represent his city. “Wisdom is a two-way street,” he says, explaining the value of creating opportunities for the young and the old to come together for intergenerational cross pollination. In the same vein, he is throwing his hat into the civic race later this month. “It’s important to have a coalition of voices
and viewpoints to nurture integrity and ethics with a younger generation,” says the former city planner who authored and illustrated the graphic novel Escape to Gold Mountain, which explores Chinese history in North America, and which has sold worldwide. JILL ROBINSON is happy Clinton was open for business this summer after she and many of her fellow entrepreneurs had to close their shops in 2017 because last summer’s BC wildfires shut down all traffic to their town. After 28 years in the business of supporting and promoting local and BC crafts people, originally showcasing only Bruce Vallance’s soughtafter pottery in her Garden Side Pottery and Gifts shop on the Cariboo Highway, Jill has it all up for sale, including the building and the adjoining Tea Shop. “Now,” says the grandJill Robinson mother of 12, “it’s time for me Photo: Alysha Milward to learn how to stay home and to work on my own quilting skills!” Jill admits her “appreciation of the handmade” comes from her own grandmother, who taught all her grandchildren the basics of knitting, sewing and crocheting. “When people come in to the store, they love to touch things that are handmade,” she says, “and they buy objects if the touch resonates.” |
RETIREMENT. LIVING!
Bria is a privately-owned family of residences designed for seniors who want the freedom to be themselves, to live independently, and to experience fun and enjoyment with their friends and families every day. Independent Living and Care Centre
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A CAREGIVING JOURNEY TO THE EDGE OF LIFE By Wendy Johnstone By definition, “dwindle” means to diminish gradually in size, amount or strength. Janet Dunnett will never forget this word. She was in Emergency with her mom and saw the word “Dwindler” on the top of the chart. Nothing else was on the chart. It struck such a chord with Janet that it titled her book, The Dwindling: A Daughter’s Caregiving Journey to the Edge of Life, which takes readers on her personal caregiving journey. It’s an Alberta and BC story spanning 10 years where the “daughter at a distance,” Janet, and her twin sister and primary caregiver, Judi, “daughter on deck” advocated and cared for their mom and dad to the end stages of life. Between them, they called it “The Parent Project.” Not out of disrespect or from a lack of love for their parents; rather, simply from an approach. Projects have team members each with defined roles. As does caregiving. Projects have objectives and goals; caregiving has them, too. Projects have timelines; caregiving has stages over the course of time. Projects also come to an end and with that comes reflection and appreciating the process. The caregiving continuum typically starts with becoming more involved and providing increased support to the care recipient. In Janet and Judi’s case, they could see their parents gradually losing capacity with chronic illnesses and dementia. Janet provided respite for Judi, who, being the primary caregiver, did the bulk of the heavy lifting over a decade of care. Judi chose to eventually retire early from work due to the time and emotional demands of being the primary caregiver. Somewhere along the continuum, caregiving becomes more intense. For Janet and Judi, the marked change in their parents’ abilities resulted in an all-encompassing three to four years of caregiving. For their mom, it was her physical functionality and chronic pain. Their dad was fighting the progressive cognitive decline with dementia. Caregiving became focused on finding solutions for immediate and expanding fires, navigating the healthcare maze and advocating for their parents. It was also about supporting purposeful activities and maintaining meaning for their parents. If there was a stage where they were most at risk for isolation, it was during this period. Janet speaks to the last stage of caregiving; moving to-
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INSPIRED SENIOR LIVING
wards end of life. There is no way to fix anything and the shift moves to acceptance. Less doing and more being. Janet speaks to the gifts in this stage, including battles being over, more appreciation of each other, more vulnerability and tenderness. One of the greatest gifts she and Judi gained was how much they learned about themselves. How does one manage 10 years of caregiving for two parents? In a heartbeat Janet would say being her sister’s support and deckhand was most important. Finding support in whatever shape that takes is key during all the stages of caregiving. Judi and Janet’s advice for other caregivers includes learning how to speak the same language as the healthcare team, figuring out who makes the decisions and documenting each interaction. This helps getting answers quicker, and sharing information becomes more efficient. One of the more difficult parts of caregiving is taking time for yourself. Their advice is simple: when you find time on your hands (and it may not be much), take it for yourself. Journaling is an important piece to help grieve the losses that can come with caring and to try to make sense of the emotions that are bound to surface. Janet is sharing her experience and learnings in an upcoming webinar with Family Caregivers of BC on October 11, 2018 | Wendy Johnstone is a Gerontologist and a consultant with Family Caregivers of British Columbia in Victoria, BC.
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Marketplace COLLECTOR SEEKING vintage/col-
lectable cameras, binoculars and microscopes. Nikon, Leica, Contax, Rolleiflex, Zeiss, Canon, etc. Mike 250-383-6456 or e-mail: msymons6456@telus.net Victoria
WANTED: Old stereo/audio equipment. Any condition. Amplifiers, turntables, speakers, receivers etc. Honest/friendly. Victoria and V.I. Call Bob, 250-896-2268, northtowns26@gmail.com Need homecare for your loved one? Choose a company with HEART! CAREGiversSM with HOME INSTEAD SENIOR CARE are thoroughly trained in dementia care, bonded and insured to provide customized homecare for your family’s needs. Book a complimentary care consultation: 250-382-6565 or visit www.HomeInstead.com/victoriabc
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ing touch? I’m a Certified Sexological Bodyworker, I work with Couples and Individuals. Sher 250-889-4166 or email sexeducator@telus.net
CHANGING
PLACES
Downsizing and relocation specialists SINCE 1991. Moving? Aging in place? Need help? Don’t know where to start? Let us take care of all the details from start to finish. Call Jane 250-721-4490 Victoria and the Island for a free estimate www.changingplaces.ca
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in the comfort of your home for everyone in your family. Serving the Victoria area. Please call Debi at 250-477-7505.
ALWAYS GREAT FEET. Nanaimo’s professional mobile foot care nurses. Debbie Mason LPN and John Patterson LPN. Home, facility, and hospital visits. Experienced, qualified nursing foot care for toenails, corns, calluses and ingrown nails. Direct billing for DVA clients. Call 250-390-9266.
We take care of everything for your stress-free move.
From downsizing, packing & unpacking, to full set up of new home including hanging pictures. We hire the moving company to load and deliver to your new home. Moving to Nanaimo Seniors Village, Comox Valley Seniors Village or Casa Loma? Call us to see if the cost of your move is covered.
Delaney Relocation & Home Support Services 250-339-1188
THINKING OF DOWNSIZING YOUR CURRENT HOME? OVERWHELMED?
We can help! Sell your home with us and we will assist with professional downsizing & move management services. Norm de Wit ReMax Camosun - Oak Bay C. 250.858.8560 O. 250.370.7788
CORNERSTONE SENIORS ADVOCACY
Assisting Seniors through life’s changes. Specializing in Transitional Moves, Downsizing, Estate Clear Out & Sale of Assets. Licensed, Bonded & Insured. 250.858.8560 www.cornerstoneadvocacy.com
WANTED Danish Mid-Century Furniture from the 50’s & 60’s. Teak & rosewood, pieces any condition. Wanted records & LPs - jazz, blues, classic rock. 250-3807022. lacknerwayne@gmail.com MOTIVATION MEDICS, professional care planners and advocates assure your rights and dignity are upheld as you age. Ph: 778-761-0485, info@motivationmedics.com. www.motivationmedics.com. KIM’S PROFESSIONAL FOOTCARE, experienced certified mobile foot
care nurse serving Nanaimo and surrounding area. www.kimsfootcare.ca. Direct billing for DVA. Call Kim @ 778-674-0475.
DOWNSIZING & ESTATE ORGANIZING: Less clutter = more serenity,
clarity, freedom! www.GoodbyeClutter.ca. Providing peace of mind for 17+ years. 604-683-0898.
KULEA LOVE: Companions to appointments, recreational, social activities to seniors and people in community feeling lonely and isolated. Victoria 250-216-3039 778-410-2460 VALLEY VIEW MEMORIAL GARDENS: For sale in Surrey 4 plots togeth-
er in Heritage West Garden section. Call Colin 604-590-6210, clcrabbe@gmail.com
MEDICAL FOOTCARE - corns,calluses, lesions, nail cutting & debridement. Offered at Ross Bay Health Centre. Colette Polard RN, BSN - call 250-477-5433. FOOTCARE: Happy, Healthy Feet make
Happy, Healthy People. The more the merrier. Call FootNurse Marcia R.N.,B.Sc.N. 250-686-3081.
Basic: $49 for 20 words + 5% GST $2.25/extra word. Red color 10% Ads must be paid at time of booking Phone: 250-479-4705 ext 100 office@seniorlivingmag.com
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INSPIRED senior living DOWNSIZING?
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Dream Downsizing can take the stress out of a move. Sorting, packing, unpacking, advising, and more. Free estimate call Lucy 250-634-3207. Or visit us online at DreamDownsizing.com BBB
REDUCE YOUR PAIN. Classes start in October. Effective, non-medication approach for musculoskeletal pain. Info & testimonials: whatsyourstrength.com. Call Meghan 604-376-6655. WANTED: OLD POSTCARDS, old photographs, and pre-1950 stamped envelopes. Also buying old coins, medals and badges. Call Michael 250-652-9412 or email fenian@shaw.ca PERSONALS SWF, NS PRETTY, BLOND, FIT, 5’8” seeks kind intelligent M NS. Enjoy gardening, travel, arts, dancing, boating. Vancouver 236-993-5835.
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Courageous
&
THESE HANDS In the column this month, I’d like to share a freestyle poem written by my daughter. Recently published in her book of poetry, Mechanics of Dreaming, it called to me as I had been looking at my hands and thinking how, if nothing else, my hands tell the world just how old I am. Thanks Trish, for allowing me to share your words.
These Hands
My hands are old. Today they are weathered and leathered and tired and sore. Most days I never notice my hands. I see my face, the skin tanned or pale, Blemished or smooth. I scan my chin, my breasts, my belly, my legs, my feet. I look for indications that time is passing more quickly than I am prepared for. I don’t see it. I see time marked all over my body, But it feels earned, It looks right. But these hands,
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INSPIRED SENIOR LIVING
The ones I use to push back my hair And look at my neck, That I slide across a tensed muscle by PAT NICHOL Seeking signs of diminishing strength, That I clasp behind my back. These hands that have caught Have thrown Have lifted and let go Have clapped so hard the sting turned them red Have high fived in celebration Have gripped and massaged and touched with affection Have balled into fists that contained screams But didn’t punch Have played music that invoked tears Have been torn asunder only to be saved By the hands of another These hands that type the words my brain desires they should Ever patient, hovering over these letters The space bar If they could sigh, likely sighing with the abundance Of visits to the delete button, But they never judge, only perform. When did they get so old? The lines that are not on my face are on my hands. The wrinkles and creases and indicators of use and age and time are there. They’ll touch, feel, hold, hurt, caress, and continue. My hands have borne the brunt of my experience. They are, Quite possibly, The most beautiful part of me.
Outrageous
My own hands are going to carry my luggage, my passport and my ideas when I travel next May to Croatia. Are you going to travel with me? I hope so. It looks like an opportunity to encounter new adventures in a beautiful part of our world. Let’s play together in the beauty of Croatia. | Pat Nichol is a speaker and published author. Reach her by email at mpatnichol@gmail.com or visit Pat’s website at patnichol.ca
Join Pat on her May 2019 trip to Croatia Booking deadline: Nov 2/18. Preview Presentation in Victoria on Oct 24/18 at 6:30pm. RSVP visionyyj@visiontravel.ca or call 250-412-1888.
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Senior Living... The Berwick Way™ At Berwick Retirement Communities, you will enjoy an unparalleled standard of living at a superior value. Creating a wonderful environment where residents enjoy exceptional services from friendly staff is The Berwick Way. Find out more about The Berwick Way™ – Ask one of our Senior Living Experts Today!
www.BerwickRetirement.com V I C TO R I A | N A N A I M O | C O M OX | K A M LO O P S | C A M P B E L L R I V E R Proud to be BC owned and operated JOB BRC-17779 CLIENT: BERWICK RETIREMENT COMMUNITY PUBLICATION: SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE INSERTION DATE: TBD TRIM: 7.25X4.75 PREPARED BY: ECLIPSE CREATIVE INC. @ 250-382-1103
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The Harrisons, Langley’s Premier Independent & Retirement Living Communities Assisted Living People don’t move into a Harrison Residence because of What We Do. They move in because of Why We Do It!
“
Since mom has embraced Retirement Living and has moved into a Harrison Residence, everyone is sleeping better. Now that she doesn’t have to cook and enjoys delicious chef prepared meals, has assistance when needed, loves the activity programs and has a social life that we can’t keep up with, she finally feels like she’s living her best life and truly loving her Golden Years. Thank You Harrison Pointe
Harrison Landing 20899 Douglas Crescent Langley, BC V3A 9L3 604.530.7075 www.harrisonlanding.com 36
INSPIRED SENIOR LIVING
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