Senior Living Magazine June 2014 by INSPIRED 55+ Lifestyle Magazine

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The Luck of the

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Plant your legacy today. Be forever. Find out how at vancouverfoundation.ca/belikealice or call Kristin at 604.629.5186

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FEATURES

26 Northern Italy & the Cinque Terre

4 From the Publisher

Visiting the romantic Italian Riviera.

Senior Living magazine joyfully celebrates 10 years of serving the community.

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SENIOR LIVING

30 Whatcom County’s Small Town Secrets

6 Ireland’s 50 Shades of Green

Who says staying close to home has to be boring?

Spectacular scenery rivals a rich history and long-held legends on the Emerald Isle.

DEPARTMENTS

10 Maui After Sunset

36 Attractions & Entertainment

After sun-soaked days on the beach, Maui’s evening entertainment spices up your vacation.

42 Classiﬁeds

13 Land of Fire and Ice

COLUMNS

A magical landspace unlike any other in the world draws nature lovers to Iceland.

6 The Family Caregiver

16 Hopping Around Australia

A study in contrasts – from gentle and inviting to desolate and inhospitable – ﬁnd it all Down Under.

by Barbara Small

7 Your Life New Column! by Sue Maitland

18 Make Your Travel Photos Pop!

40 Fit for the Adventure

Simple tips to turn your vacation photos from disappointing to dynamic.

by Eve Lees

20 Puddle Jumping Through Prague 41 Courageous & Outrageous A European trip plagued by record-breaking rain can dampen your adventure – but only if you let it!

22 Newfoundland to France – By Ferry

Saint-Pierre et Miquelon may be a stone’s throw from Canada’s east coast, but you’ll need your passport to set foot on this French soil.

24 Oregon Coast Road Trip

If jetting off isn’t in the cards this year, consider a coastal road trip.

by Pat Nichol

44 Forever Young by William Thomas

Cover Photo: Blarney Castle, Co. Cork. Courtesy of Tourism Ireland www.ireland.com See story about Ireland on page 6.

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Senior Living is published by Stratis Publishing. Publishers Barbara Risto Barry Risto

Head Ofﬁce Contact Information: Box 153, 1581-H Hillside Ave., Victoria BC V8T 2C1

Editor Bobbie Jo Reid editor@seniorlivingmag.com

Phone 250-479-4705 Fax 250-479-4808 Toll-free 1-877-479-4705

Ofﬁce Manager Shayna Horne 250-479-4705 ofﬁce@seniorlivingmag.com

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Advertising Sue Collins 250-479-4705 ext 102 Larry Leggett 778-239-2542 (Vancouver) Bob Ramsey 250-479-4705 ext 104 Kathie Wagner 250-479-4705 ext 103 For advertising information, call 250-479-4705 sales@seniorlivingmag.com WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM

Subscriptions: $32 (includes GST, postage and handling) for 12 issues. Canadian residents only. No portion of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Senior Living is an independent publication and its articles imply no endorsement of any products or services. The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publisher. Unsolicited articles are welcome and should be e-mailed to editor@seniorlivingmag. com Senior Living is distributed free throughout British Columbia. Stratis Publishing Ltd. publishes Senior Living (12 issues per year). ISSN 17103584 (Print) ISSN 1911-6403 (Online)

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From Barbara Risto, Publisher:

Senior Living Celebrates a Decade

en years ago, in June 2004, a shipment of 10,000 magazines arrived in my driveway. My family gathered to look at the stack of boxes and decided that if they ever wanted to use the driveway again, they’d better help find places to distribute those magazines. Today, the boxes still arrive in my driveway every month, in greater quantity than before, but there’s a shed for storage and my family members no longer have paper routes. Senior Living began as the result of a desire to erase the stereotypical notions about seniors that seemed present all around me. What I saw were seniors being portrayed as weak, useless, sick and fragile, or mocked and made fun of. I created the possibility of a magazine that, instead of insulting seniors, would celebrate them for bringing extraordinary service and benefit to the world around them over the course of their lives. The reader feedback of that first year put us on track, and has bolstered us throughout this decade-long endeavour. One gentleman, his wife called to tell us, absolutely refused to read any magazines geared to seniors. Not unlike other people his age, he felt offended by the jokes and uninspired by the relentless focus on disability and illness. When he gingerly picked up the copy of Senior Living his wife left behind on the coffee table, he had no great hopes for anything different. But when his wife got home, he told her, “Finally, a senior magazine I will read!” There was also the call from a lady in her 50s who told me, “I want you to know that I used to dread getting old. Since reading Senior Living, I’m not afraid anymore.” Through the stories she read about people who were challenging the myths and status quo around aging, she saw the potential and the opportunity to live life to its fullest, even in her senior years. It opened up an exciting realm of possibilities she didn’t realize existed. It was encouragement like this that made the first steps easy and has kept me focused upon seeing my vision for Senior Living become a reality. We now have an eager and loyal read��

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ership of over 125,000 across Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland. The typical comment we get from readers is “I love your magazine,” revealing that Senior Living is more than just a magazine: It has an emotional impact on our readers that keeps them coming back month after month, making our recycle rate at the end of the month less than three per cent. The majority of readers tell us they hardly ever miss an issue, and they read Senior Living cover to cover. Our website attracts an average of 20,000 unique visitors monthly, and growing. It contains thousands of articles, a discussion group, events listings, business directory, senior housing database, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, and two radio channels. In 2006, we hosted our first annual Senior Expo in Victoria, which has grown every year and may expand soon to the Mainland. In 2007, drawing upon personal experience and research garnered through our housing editorial, we published a book called To Move or Not to Move? – a guide for BC seniors considering their housing options. This 128-page book has proven to be a welcome resource for seniors and their families. We are getting ready for our third reprint, expanding the content and distribution Canada-wide. In 2012, we launched a half-hour television show called Senior Living On Location, which ran for a full year on CHEK TV. The content mirrored our magazine, featuring seniors and senior groups living life to its fullest. The segments can now be viewed on our YouTube channel. While there is so much to celebrate, starting and running a magazine for seniors has not been struggle-free. We were told, when we started, that our magazine would not succeed because it had the word “senior” in the title. It was discouraging to hear people had such a negative view of seniors, but it made me all the more determined to prove we could redefine it and change how people think about seniors. The ability to keep the company financially afloat and the magazine on shelves every month has been a significant challenge. We depend on the support of advertisers. And �� advertisers depend on Senior Living read�� ers showing up at their doors to justify their �� marketing spend with us. �� In 2004, few companies were target�� ing the senior market. Today, the business �� world is becoming increasingly aware of �� the rapidly growing number of seniors. �� Since the first baby boomer turned 65 in January 2011, the growth in the senior con�� sumer market has taken a dramatic upturn WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM

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and will continue to escalate for the next 20 years at least. Companies are starting to realize that if they don’t add seniors to their marketing mix, they are overlooking half of today’s adult market. The biggest growth in sales in the future will be to the young senior consumers. Banks tell us that the biggest inheritance transfer in history is taking place right now. In the next couple decades, 75 per cent of the nation’s wealth will change hands from aging parents to their senior children. This is a huge marker for businesses of today to take note of. Boomer purchase choices may change as they age but they have the dollars to spend and they have a habit of spending. Companies that can engage this emerging consumer group will position themselves well for the senior tsunami that is about to sweep through our world. I believe the role of Senior Living is to make a positive impact in the lives of its readers. Countless people have changed as a result of reading an article that set them on an alternate course. Even a single degree shift can make a significant difference in the trajectory of one’s life. Recently, Barb Small, who writes a Senior Living column on behalf of the Family Caregivers’ Network Society (FCNS), met a man who identified an article she wrote as his starting point toward making a positive change in his life. “He asked if he could give me a hug. He started crying and said that my column saved his life. He cut out all my columns and read them over and over. He said the one that saved his life was where I said it was essential for caregivers to take care of themselves too. It was a turning point for him. He joined a support group and has since booked his first vacation ever for himself.” As a publisher, this powerful story emphasizes the need to continue our mission to provide content that entertains, informs and inspires. I want people to feel more empowered and have a greater sense of the untapped possibilities waiting for them. I’m looking forward to the next 10 years. We’re going where no one has gone, serving a readership age demographic of a magnitude never seen in history. We will continue to be creative and inspiring, finding new and innovative solutions. We are establishing a reputation as a solid, consistent and unapologetic ambassador for all that is positive, uplifting, celebratory and inspiring in the world of seniors. We will continue to draw upon the collective wisdom of all our stakeholders – employees, contributors, readers, advertisers and suppliers – to create and align with a purposeful mission that will change our future and the future of coming generations. It may take hard work, but I believe in Senior Living, and I believe in the team that I have working with me. Hard work is rewarding, and even fun, when you have supportive people who are aligned and moving in the same direction toward a worthy goal; I believe we have the ingredients for that. Thank you to all those – readers, businesses and colleagues – who are on this challenging and exhilarating journey with me. It’s a worthy endeavour. Considering how remarkable the past 10 years have been, the next 10 years will be an experience I wouldn’t miss for the world. SL

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THE FAMILY CAREGIVER

Travel Tips for Family Caregivers

ravelling with someone who has a disability or illness can seem overwhelming; however, it can be possible with good advanced planning. Start with a visit to the care recipient’s doctor for clearance for travel. The doctor may anticipate challenges with travelling and/ or your destination, and offer recommendations to ease the process. • Ensure you have an up-to-date copy of the care recipient’s medications, insurance records and medical record, in case they need treatment when away. Include contact information for their doctor, pharmacist and any other medical professional involved in their treatment. • Carry medications with you in case your luggage is lost en route and make sure you have enough medication for a few extra days, in case your return is delayed or you wish to stay longer.

• Make a list of daily tasks related to diet, personal care and mobility, so you remember to take along all needed items. Start this list a couple weeks in advance as it can be easy to forget the little things. • If you’re travelling to an unfamiliar destination, locate hospitals and care centres ahead of time. • If travelling by air, check with the airlines for special seating, wheelchair accessibility and medical equipment arrangements. At your destination, amusement parks, museums and other attractions often have wheelchairs available for use. • Check with the transportation authority at your destination to find out what services they provide for people with special needs. Also, the Canadian Transportation Agency offers an online guide to provide advance travel information for persons with mobility, sensory and cognitive dis-

BY BARBARA SMALL

abilities. It can be accessed at www.otccta.gc.ca/eng/take-charge/livre-book • Will you need to access home support services at your destination? Your local home support agency may have a branch at that locale. Otherwise, you can check online or contact hospitals or health units in the area for suggestions. • Ensure you plan for rest and recovery periods throughout the day, especially on travel days, so you have sufficient time to maneuver airports or train stations. • For someone who is at risk of wandering, put a card with their name and the name, address and telephone number of where you are staying in their pocket. SL Next month: Life after Caregiving Barbara Small is the Program Development Coordinator for Family Caregivers’ Network Society located in Victoria, BC. 250-384-0408 www.familycaregiversnetwork.org

The Family Caregiver column is brought to you by the generous sponsorship of Saint Elizabeth

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Travel Abroad Your Life

BY SUE MAITLAND

s a Life Transitions Coach, I’m passionate about supporting mid-lifers and up to live their best life and not settle for anything less. Each month, in this column, I’ll ask questions to get you thinking about this issue’s theme. Everyone who reads this will have their own unique answers to these questions. The key to creating your best life, at any age, is taking ACTION once you discover your answers.

Questions to ask yourself about travel abroad: What countries have always fascinated me?

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Which of these counties would I enjoy visiting? Look at each destination and, considering the length of the journey, the activities you may want to engage in and your current health and mobility, ask yourself: “Which of these destinations may I want to visit sooner, rather than later?” For destinations you wish to visit sooner, ask: “When would be the ideal time of year for me to visit?” Consider the weather, the crowds and the cost of travel. Do your research by talking to friends, using books, magazines, the internet and a reputable travel agent who is knowledgeable in this destination.

TAKE ACTION:

Once you’ve decided on a destination, consider reading about their history, learning a few phrases in the local language and reading travel books and reviews to allow you to plan some activities before you leave. Build a future travel plan for the next five years based on SL your answers to these questions.

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Sue Maitland is an ICF Certiﬁed Life Transitions Coach based in Victoria. WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM

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“Come Play With Us”

www.bcseniorsgames.org JUNE 2014

Ireland’s 50 Shades of Green BY IRENE BUTLER

“F

or every shade of green that exists – the Ring of Kerry is the place!” exclaim our Irish friends, knowing how riveting I find my life-long favourite

colour. After embracing the liveliness of Dublin, my husband Rick and I pick up our rental car, a startling iridescent blue Peugeot, which we dub “Peacock.” We head southward towards the famed ring road promising spectacular scenery, with a planned stop at Blarney. Or, rather two stops as Rick insists we visit Kilkenny Castle. “Perhaps I’m a long lost descendant,” he says, “and this will become our summer home.” You see, the Kilkenny Castle is also known as the Butler Castle, stronghold of the powerful Butler clan for over 500 years! Arriving at the Kilkenny Castle I’ll admit being impressed with its grand towers, and with our walk through richly decorated restored rooms. The legendary Richard de Clare, a.k.a. Strongbow built a wooden structure here in 1172. His daughter’s marriage to wealthy William Marshall resulted in the construction of this stone edifice between 1195 and 1213. Enter the Butlers. James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormond, bought the castle in 1391, beginning the family’s rule of the surrounding areas for centuries. The Butlers shmoozed with British royalty; notable was Lady Margaret Butler (14541539) daughter of the 7th Earl of Ormond, who married Sir William Boleyn and was the paternal grandmother of Anne Boleyn, the 2nd wife of Henry VIII of England. Over the years, the Butlers clung to the castle through 810

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financial ups and downs. Alas, after massive economic upheaval post-WWI they went broke, abandoning the castle in 1935, its contents sold by auction. After years of unpaid taxes, Arthur Butler (24th Earl of Ormond) sold the caste in 1967 to the city of Kilkenny for a mere 50 pounds. No pot of gold for Rick. Arriving at Blarney for our overnight stay, we take a late afternoon walk to Blarney Castle. “You really want to kiss the greasy mark where a gazillion lips have been before?” Rick spouts. “Then I’ll be a gazillion-and-one.” We climb spiraling narrow stone stairs. At the top we relish the view and read the historical placards. Built as a medieval fortress, the Blarney Stone is one of its “machicolations” – a floor opening between supporting corbels through which stones or other objects could be dumped on attackers at the wall’s base. Once called “the Stone of Eloquence” legends abound as to the origin of its power. My favourite is about an old woman casting a spell on the stone “for sweetly convincing speech” if kissed, as a reward to a king who saved her from drowning. It’s my turn. Two fellows man the stone. One gets me into position, while the other is camera-ready. The first guides my backwards lean so I face the stone and holds me from slipping past the point of no return. Not to be outdone, Rick follows suit. Photos can be picked up at the exit for 10 pounds each. Rick questions, “Why didn’t the Butler’s think of this?” The next morning we gas up Peacock for the Ring of Ker-

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ry, the 179km circuit around the coast of Iveragh Peninsula. The muted blue of distant mountains drapes the horizon. Each hill crest reveals patchwork-quilt fields of sensational green hues – pale, emerald, lime – outlined by dark forest green shrubbery and jade bush-covered berms and ancient mossy stone fences – like snowflakes, no two field shapes are identical. Sheep and cattle are thicker than patches of shamrock. The winding roadway often opens to breathcatching views of white-capped waves on aqua seas, glimmering lakes and roiling rivers, and passes through bustling towns and sleepy villages.

Photos: Irene and Rick Butler

The 1,000-year-old beehive-shaped stone dwellings.

Our first ring-road stay is in Killarney at the grand Ross Hotel. We are quick to take to the trails of Killarney National Park for the ruins of the 15th century Ross Castle edged by a lake; the perfect place to feast on our picnic supper. At one point, in the next day’s drive, we exit the Ring of Kerry for the Skellig Ring and head southwest to the small fishing village of Portmagee, and snuggle into The Moorings Guesthouse. It is up with the seagulls the next morning to partake in a hearty breakfast, which we feel we’ll need. Our boat, the Shelluna departs with a full capacity of 12 people. Captain Patrick Joseph Murphy (Pat Joe for short) is a crusty dog who knows his way around the sea after 30 years of taking folks to Skellig Rocks. The sky is a thick grey canvas of cloud spitting its contents in a light rain, and with the added splash from the waves, we are thankful for the supplied canary yellow slickers. In less than an hour, we step onto Skellig Michael, the 218m-high rock island, where monks clung to life between the 6th and 12th centuries. We look up at the almost vertical rugged cliffs, then give our full attention to climbing over-600 rain-slicked steps to the monastic settlement. Luckily, there are periodic widenedportions to stop for a photo and to catch our breath. At the

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top, I walk in awed silence between the 1,000year-old beehive-shaped stone dwellings, trying to imagine living in this most unlikely place to sustain life. A guide tells those gathered what is believed to have been a day in the life of the monks. Prayer in the oratory at dawn, and four more times throughout the day for prayer and study – the remainder consumed in chores to exist. A small garden on the only other flattened area grew cereals and vegetables. Two small stone reservoirs collected rain water. Some would have climbed down daily to fish. A few goats and sheep suited this terrain, but how they got a cow to climb the steep steps is beyond me. The monks traded feathers, bird’s eggs and seal steaks for tools and vellum with passing ships. I pass the cemetery with crude stone slabs for markers. A great stone cross stands close to the church named St. Michael, honouring the Archangel Michael, apropos for these men who were warriors of the spirit. This is one of those times when something must be seen to be believed – a worthy UNESCO site. On our boat trip back, our Captain veers close to Little Skellig, a bird sanctuary. The ledges are packed with 20,000 gannets, and numerous other squawking seabirds – most seem reticent to move for fear of losing their place. Continuing the next day around the Skellig ring, then

The author and her husband at Blarney Castle.

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Featured Business back onto the Ring of Kerry with more verdant countryside, outcrops of cliffs, white sandy beaches, and roadside trees forming enchanting leafy arches, we arrive at Kenmare. After a walk around the town’s centre with store-fronts of every Crayola colour, it is to Shelburne Lodge, the perfect place to cozy-up by a crackling wood fire on our last night in Ireland.

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At Butler Castle.

In the wee morning hours, we drive to Kerry Airport, bid farewell to Peacock, fly to Dublin then home – overflowing with memories of Ireland’s fine traditions, hospitable people SL and by far the most shades of green on earth.

Testimonials: “It is the best care imaginable and the person who is taking care of me is a devoted person; she cannot do enough for me… she goes beyond the call of duty.” “I am very pleased with the service. It is one of the main reasons why I am able to stay in my own home.”

Wanting your own trip to Ireland? Join the Senior Living sponsored trip, hosted by TV personality Deborra Hope. See page 7 for details. Visit Tourism Ireland at www.ireland.com For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag. com/articles/50-shades-of-green

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JUNE 2014

Maui After Sunset: BY RICK & CHRIS MILLIKAN

Evening Magic T

o many visitors, Maui’s glorious sunsets signal a restful break from daytime fun. To others, its time to shop. For us, evenings can mean entertainment that spices up our island vacation. Nights abound with free spectacles. We never tire of strolling moonlit beaches, warm sands caressing our feet, waves pounding rhythmicly on golden shores. From every floral shrub and leafy tree, birdy choresters fill the air with joyful sounds. Among Kahana’s entertaining possibilities, we attend George Kahumoku’s slack-key concert, held weekly in Napili Kai’s airy Aloha Pavilion. Tonight’s guest performers include guitarist Kevin Brown and da Ukulele Boyz. Four-time Grammy winner, George Kahumoku introduces his Hawaiian songs with “talk stories,” intriguing tales of his life and work that add humorous background to his music. Kahumoku leads off, strumming, plucking and hammering his 12-string. His musical friends join in the fun, taking turns improvising and later presenting their own stories and songs. One of da Ukulele Boyz explains studying slack-key string techniques watching veterans like George… and YouTube. “Folksy tunings include da Taro Patch, G Wahine, D Wahine, Mauna Loa and Double Slack F,” he grins. “Ya’ got that?” Each one solos, singing catchy lyrics depicting Hawaii’s special Aloha lifestyle. Sitting on the aisle, we watch these musicians frequently retune their ukuleles and guitars, nimbly finger untraditional chords and create melodic harmonies. 14 12

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George Kahumoku’s slack-key concert

Their vocal styles recall the Paniolos, early Hawaiian cowboys. Hawaiian-bred, this music’s jubilant instrumentals and funloving verse captivates everyone, quickly adding us to a growing list of slack-key lovers. This extraordinary concert gives us all insights into Island culture. Nearby historic location for royal amusements, Ka’anapali continues providing evening fun for everyone. Our hotel offers live music at Acrobats, the Hyatt’s poolside restaurant, astronomy programs and luaus. Beginning like numerable luaus, artisans display island handicrafts and guests like us are warmly welcomed with leis and mai tais. At one of the tables fanning from the stage we meet our excited tablemates: a family of Mid-Westerners and a honeymoon couple. As a waiter attends to our thirst, a trio croons lively tunes on stage flanked by tropical flowers and ferocious ki’i statuary. Models next teach us the art of tying sarongs. And hanging loose, some guests join hula dancers to learn the rollicking Hukilau. The conch shell heralds the arrival of ground oven-roasted pork and start of the vast buffet, perfect for enjoying authentic Hawaiian cuisine. We sample purple poi, a nutritious staple that even infants enjoy. Mahi mahi, huli huli chicken and ahi poke have long been favourite dishes. Recalling Captain Cook’s gifts of seeds and cattle to King Kamehameha, the main vegetables and Ulupalakua beef boast regal heritage. Haupia, an ages-old dessert, is a coconut pudding. Dishes

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from the plantation era include Japanese soba noodles and American bread pudding, all “ono”… Hawaiian for delicious! Following dinner, the Drums of the Pacific extravaganza transports us to old Hawaii and around the South Pacific. Thanks to King David Kalaukaua, who re-instated hula, once considered pagan, we see graceful Hawaiian dances revering early gods and celebrating life. Rattles and chants accompany Tahitian and Rorotongan hips jiggling in grass skirts. As drums pound more loudly, Tongans swoop and swirl across the stage. Fijians and New Zealand’s tattooed Maoris perform war dances. In fact, those Maoris poke out their tongues while ferociously shaking spears at us! Samoan fire dancers provide the perfect finale! Joining Director of Astronomy Edward Mahoney later, we star-gaze atop the hotel’s ninth story rooftop deck. Asked to locate familiar constellations in the southern sky, we find the Big and Little Dipper. Pointing out two bright stars, Mahoney tells us, “Early Polynesians navigated to Hawaii using Arcturus, that bright overhead star. To the south is even brighter Sirius, which led them back to Tahiti.” Giant astronomy binoculars sharpen our views. A collection of powerful telescopes already point into the cloudless sky. One allows us to study the moon’s cratered surface, another Saturn’s rings. The 14-inch reflector telescope focuses on the three stars of Orion’s belt, revealing blue-hued triple star Alnitak, Alnilam and double star Mintaka. In using the computer, he quickly focuses on other stars, nebulae and galaxies in a wondrous cosmic experience. Other nighttime attractions take place in neighbouring Lahaina. Having explored this nineteenth century whaling town by day, we return for an extraordinary evening at Annabel and Warren’s, a long running magic show. Entering one of several waterfront structures, we climb a stairway to a turn-of-the-century styled reception area. While we wait, leaflets tell us about Annabel and her husband, a captain lost at sea in 1838. The piano that once welcomed him home became her only source of comfort. Never losing hope, she keeps on playing… From among an increasing number of guests, the hostess welcomes us and two other couples. Given a key, we enter a mysterious chamber and collectively puzzle out how to unlock the door. Inside the plush lounge, two levels of tables wrap around a grand piano. Awaiting the pianist, we sip tropical cocktails and nibble crab cakes, kalua pork wraps, coconut shrimp and zesty chicken satay. Suddenly, with a subtle whoosh of air, “something” sits on the piano stool. Our hostess introduces Annabel… and asks us for requests. Excitedly swiveling into action, ghostly Annabel plunks out spirited golden oldies with uncanny finesse. Following more haunting medleys and luscious desserts, we’re all directed into a cozy theatre. Two award-winning magicians fill in for Warren. John George immediately engages the audience with fast-paced

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card tricks and a patter of jokes, keeping us laughing for over an hour. Although hilarity rules his routines, his sleight of hand amazes. Shifting cups a series of times, he consistently asks, “Okay, where’s the pea?” but dumfounds the audience by revealing gold coins, an eight ball… even a can of Spam! Levitating a small table ends his riveting act before he introduces his mentor, Dana Daniels. Deadpan, Dana presents his white dove assistant, Dwayne, as the Psychic Bird of Maui. We immediately know there’s another round of quips and laughter coming up! In a flurry of card tricks, Dwayne usually “pecks” the right card. When mistaken, Dana smiles benignly, pointing out the limits of birdbrains. All laugh when he asks, “Well, what can YOUR pet do?” Offering large doses of zaniness, these prestidigitators fill this evening with aha, awe and lots of ha-ha. Maui’s luau ladies.

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The nearby Myth & Magic Theater stages Ulalena, a bewitching cirque du soleil-style musical running for a record 14 years! As an ensemble of percussionists beat out rhapsodic tempos, audiences experience the highlights of Hawaii’s past and mythic lore. Through the mists of time, we witness early Polynesians crossing the Pacific and settling on their new island home. Hawaiian history is full of legends. So, a dreamlike gecko wriggles down a moonbeam and demi-god Maui snares the sun with a net. As Hawaiians celebrate the good fortune of longer days, Captain Cook appears and dramatically changes native life forever. And their tale of Pele vanquishing pig god Kamapua’a instills hope. Afterall, she’s the powerful fire goddess, rectifying problems and creating new possibilities. Our audience thunderously applauds Ulalena, a very inspiring musical! By including nighttime delights during our Maui holidays, we expand the fun in paradise. SL For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag. com/articles/maui-after-sunset 16 14

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Land of Fire and Ice Photo: John van den Hengel

BY ENISE OLDING

Descending the glacier at Solheimajokli.

eading to Iceland at the end of October may seem to be at odds with the tendency to contemplate a warm place in the sun as winter approaches. But there isn’t too much to decide upon when it comes to packing, and it does provide an opportunity for a head start in hauling out those winter boots, gloves and coats. Warm outdoor clothes are definitely needed for a trip to Iceland in the fall. Although temperatures may not be that much different to some of ours, it is the wind that is the challenge, making effective Canadian winter clothes a must for a trip there. Indoors though, it is an entirely different story as the abundant heat, which comes from deep within volcanic Iceland, is used to heat buildings, provides plenty of piping hot water and creates wonderful thermal-heated outdoor pools in which to relax. Being the most western European country, of approximately 38,000 square miles, Iceland sits astride the Atlantic ridge, which splits the country in half: one side of the fault is the North American plate and the other is the Eurasian plate. After millions of years of volcanic activity, fierce winds and glacial movement, the landscape is enticing, forbidding and magical. Whatever happened to form the rest of the world seems to still be going on in Iceland: snow-capped mountains, cliffs, lava fields, glaciers, grasslands, volcanic craters, rushing rivers, basalt columns, coastal ledges and waterfalls are just a few of the grand natural sights to be seen and experienced. The eruption of volcano Eyjafjallajökull in 2010 impacted flights around the world and spawned many documentaries featuring volcanoes and Iceland, in particular. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, people who love to experience nature are now taking a closer look at Iceland as a place to see how our world was, is and may be formed and reformed. The first to reach Iceland’s shores was a small group of Irish

monks. Later, the Norsemen came. Some stayed, some journeyed on. Now Iceland’s population of about 323,000 hosts some 680,000 visitors a year. With tourism being such a major focus, there are many very well-planned ventures for people to experience all aspects of the country. Reykjavik, the capital, is a city of contrasts from its old working harbour, its magnificent 28,000-square-foot Harpa concert hall, to its most iconic building, the Hallgrimskirkja church. The church can be seen from just about anywhere in the city and, as the highest building, is a great place to get a view of the entire city. From there, the brightly painted homes, sparkling waters of the harbour, and glittering façade of the Harpa can really be enjoyed. Inside the church, it’s a nice surprise to find such a large building feeling so warm, uplifting and bright; thanks to the clean, uncluttered sweeping design, thermal heat and brilliant sunshine. If you manage to time your visit when the organist is playing, then your visit is truly complete. Somehow the designs of both the Harpa and Hallgrimskirkja seem to embody and reflect the very essence of the Icelandic spirit and its history. The Tjornin is as popular with people as birds, with its huge pond offering reflective views of the surrounding buildings, one of which is the impressive modern city hall. When the water freezes over, a small area receives a thermal boost to keep it open for the water fowl. That, along with plenty of interesting shops, meandering streets and great restaurants helps keep downtown a vibrant and enjoyable place, especially when the days are short. What is known as “the circle tour” route allows visitors to see the real Iceland, including the Geysir geothermal field where the mud bubbles, steam bellows out of the ground and geysers spurt high into the air. A stop in Laugarvatn at the Fontana steam baths

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situated on the lake lets you get right into the natural geothermal steam experience. The three deliciously warm, interconnected outdoor mineral pools overlook the lake and a range of stark mountains in the background. Luxuriously soothing as the baths may be, the rush through the bitingly cold wind to the indoor showers is bracing. It’s at this location that a traditional style of bread is baked by way of burying the cooking container in the sand at the edge of the lake and leaving it to cook in thermal heat overnight. Piping hot bread and lashings of butter make for a great finish to the mineral spa experience. The historic Thingvellir National Park is where the national assembly was established around 930AD and parliament was convened here until 1798. Iceland’s most important historic events took place here and, as such, it is a designated UNESCO world heritage site. It is also the place where a walk through the parting of the two continents can be taken. Waterfalls abound in Iceland and one of the most spectacular and popular is the Gulfoss, where the water thunders down through different levels, down yet more drop-offs, curves sharply and proceeds down the crevice, which is 32m deep and about 2.5km in length. The noise is thunderous, the view is stupendous and the wind is unbelievably strong. Opportunities abound to experience just about every level of adventure from snowmobiling, horseback riding, whale watching, ATV touring, cycling tours, Northern Lights viewing to bus tours, and more. The road east along the south coast leads through dramatic coastal landscapes with sheer cliffs, lava fields, sparkling ocean views and the two magnificent waterfalls – Seljalandsfoss and Skógarfoss, one of which it is possible to walk behind and get a really interesting view. Sólheimajökull is the location for a glacier walk. Fitted out with crampons, it is possible to see different ice features, water cauldrons and crevasses, and learn about the volcanic landscape at close hand. After a tentative start to the expedition, elated climbers descend and travel over the ice surface to be rewarded with the cascading rays of the setting sun that saturates the sky with awe-inspiring majesty. To learn more about the history of Iceland and its people, a stop at the nearby Skógasafn museum is a must. Examples of life in small turf houses are featured along with wonderful collections of domestic and working life artifacts. The founder of the museum, Þórður Tómasson, was a young lad when he realized the traditional way of life was about to give way to another type of living. He started collecting all the items people were throwing away and his collection eventually resulted in a wonderfully complete, and wellpreserved, view of life in Iceland in earlier days. It happens sometimes that the founder will play the organ, and a bus driver of an Icelandic tour group will play the accordion for visitors. If this happens and the visitors know the song, despite singing it in different languages, they can burst into song, and even take up partners for a waltz around the ex-

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Photo: Enise Olding

hibits, if encouraged by certain Canadian visitors. The challenging landscape and conditions in which Icelanders live means they are particularly resourceful and stalwart, but not without whimsy as is shown by the general fondness for the elves that are believed to dwell within the landscape. Recently, it was the topic of impassioned discussion when a new highway was to be routed through an Elvin domain and the project halted for consideration by The light over Tj or Reykjavik, attrac nin, the lake in downtown the Supreme Court of Iceland. ts locals, abun dant wildlife and a photogra Of another ilk entirely are the Icelandic sapher from Vanc ouver Island. gas, which are held in highest regard because the 10th/11th century events of the country are described in this the earliest of Icelandic literature and his- port a lot of things and tory. Sometimes, gatherings around the fireplace in the hotel this can push the prices up. But if you stick in the evenings will bring forth readings from the sagas and to local as much as possible it’s not a major problem. And the this experience transports everyone back in time, the same as language? That’s not a problem either as English is readily spoken. After a while, those Icelandic names begin to fall easit did for countless Icelanders over the years. So, what about the food? With all that thermal heating, ily off your tongue, especially when a local breaks them down Icelanders are embarking on growing fresh vegetables in and explains what each aspect of the long name means. The land of fire and ice offers so much more than a short massive green houses. The abundant sheep provide a delicious basis for meals, and also drive the thriving Icelandic trip can cover. It beckons us to return to both Iceland – and the SL Senior Living (March wool sweater industry. The2014) bakeries contain endless variet- raw nature of the past. ies7.25”w of tastyxgoods 4.75”dand the coffee is superb. Being surrounded by the ocean, the seafood dishes are fresh and delicious. For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag. A small nation with a small population, Iceland has to im- com/articles/fire-and-ice

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Hopping Around Australia BY JOHN THOMSON

’m on the road on Kangaroo Island, a 155-kilometre sliver of land 112 kilometres south of Adelaide, Australia. It’s a nature preserve, one of the largest on the continent, with hundreds of kangaroos, echidnas, possums, penguins and koalas sharing habitat with 4,500 permanent islanders. Having loaded up on provisions at the supermarket in Kingscote, I’m enroute to lodgings on the other side. I’ve been told the local custom is to give oncoming traffic the “Island wave,” a wiggle of the index finger. It’s a friendly gesture that goes back to the horseand-cart days when life was simpler and neighbours were neighbourly. Animals may have the run of the place but people live here too. A car approaches. I fix my gaze upon the solitary driver and stick up my index figure as suggested. He recoils in horror. I can only assume he’s mistaken my friendly gesture for that other digital salute, you know, the decidedly unfriendly one. He’s not from around these parts, I say to myself. Darn tourist. So begins my first day on this island retreat famous for its wildlife, towering sand dunes and pristine beaches. Kangaroo Island is often referred to as Australia’s Galapagos and is a favourite destination for Aussies and tourists, connected to the mainland by air and by ferry. There are five distinct regions, each with its own topography and activities whether it’s swimming, dune buggying or photographing wildlife. My wife and I are staying at Hanson Bay on the western end of the island in a well-appointed cabin overlooking the water. As I walk down to the beach, sidestepping around a large goanna skirting into the foliage, I look out over the breakers. It’s hard to believe Antarctica is just over the horizon. Using our cabin at Hanson Bay as our home base, we venture to the furthermost western tip of the Island and a limestone formation called Remarkable Rocks. High winds have lacerated the rocks with sea salt over the years, creating the most unusual shapes. A short drive from the Rocks takes us to Admiral’s Arch, home to a colony of New Zealand fur seals. We don’t see any in the cave itself; they’re all in the surf below. Later that evening, we attend the Hanson Bay Sanctuary and an event called Koala Walk. We’re a small group of 12. 20 18

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We start at dusk. Koalas are nocturnal creatures and we’re hoping to catch them getting up from their midday nap. Our guide, Sally Morris, points to two koalas high up in the eucalyptus trees. All I can see is a furry lump. Oblivious to our need for the money shot, the sleeping koalas have presented their rumps to the camera. I’m tempted to throw stones, but Sally reminds me that tormenting the critters is a capital offence in Australia – or pretty Kangaroo and baby close to it. But perseverance at Hanson Bay. pays off. We catch several of the marsupials stirring from their slumber as they jump from branch to branch. Soon, it’s too dark to make them out and Sally takes us over to the kangaroos instead. “Kangaroos are gentle creatures,” she says, as she swings her flashlight into the troop. Roos have the run of the place except for a small wooden fence that separates the pasture from the walkway. “Unless they’re provoked,” she adds, “in which case they rest upon their tail and flail away with their powerful hind quarters.” She proceeds to tell us how quickly roos can eviscerate their enemies. She’s very graphic. Does shining a light in their faces provoke aggressive behaviour? I hope not. We stay behind the fence. Australia is an amazing study in contrasts. Two days later, we’re in Broken Hill, a small city on the edge of the Outback, 152 kilometres northeast of Adelaide. The area is arid, desolate and inhospitable – a far cry from the greenery of Kangaroo Island – but, in 1883, adventurers found silver in them thar hills and the settlement rapidly morphed into a mining town. It wears its heritage proudly. Crystal Street runs into Oxide Street, which runs parallel to Chloride Street. Naming its downtown thoroughfares after rocks and minerals is one of its many quirks. The city is dominated by a huge slag heap at the top of which some cheeky entrepreneurs have built the area’s most exclusive restaurant. Kangaroo, which is a protected species on Kangaroo Island, but not here, is on the menu. Venturing deeper into the Outback, we drive to the Mundi Mundi Plains (pronounced moonday moonday) 30 kilometres out of town. All I can see is a ribbon of asphalt disappearing into the scrub. The Plains and, in fact the very rise I’m standing

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on, served as the backdrop for the movie, Road Warrior or as it’s known in Australia, Mad Max 2. The settlement of Silverton, five kilometres south of the Plains, plays up the area’s cinematic history. Eighty souls live here tending bar, managing four art galleries or guiding visitors through the world’s only Mad Max museum. A Mad Max museum? I’m greeted at the museum’s door by owner and curator Adrian Bennett. Adrian is a self-admitted super fan who emigrated to Silverton from England 10 years ago, driven by his fascination – some would say obsession – with the movie Road Warrior. His homemade museum houses cast and crew memorabilia, many original vehicles left onsite when filming wrapped and a few replicas he built himself. A gregarious host, Adrian tells me visitors often don’t understand his lifestyle choice. Remarkable Rocks.

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“People say ‘don’t you get bored? There’s nothing to do.’ I say there’s no time to get bored, the people we meet, and the things we have to do. Living here is full time. It’s great. No-one is honking horns, there’s no screeching tires, there’s no traffic jams. I wake up every day with a big smile on my face.” A Mad Max museum is not what you’d expect in a tiny community that is literally in the middle of nowhere. And that’s what I enjoyed while hopping around Australia. The countryside and the people are full of surprises. Nothing is exactly as it appears. Take the HMS Titanic memorial in Sturt Park in mid-town Broken Hill, for example. In 1912, the city fathers erected a memorial to the liner’s eight-man orchestra. Did any of the musicians come from Broken Hill? No. But back in 1912, the town’s musical community felt a kinship with their ill-fated brethren and raised the money to do something about it. That’s Australia for you: quirky, colourful and idiosyncratic. SL

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Make Your Travel Photos Pop! BY NORM HAMILTON

Gordes, in the ProvenceAlpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France.

hange your travel photographs from blasé to beautiful. Remember your last vacation? You took hundreds of photos, but they just don’t measure up to the experience. You did everything you`re supposed to do but the images didn’t capture what you recollect and felt. You planned your trip and made sure you visited all the locations you wanted to see and photograph. You knew what to shoot and when. You made sure you had your camera with you at all times. The excitement and beauty of the scenery and places is still in your memory, but the photographs seem… well… humdrum. We can change that. Let’s look at four easy things you can do that are guaranteed to make your images pop. First, take time to consider the scene. There is a central subject in each that attracts your attention. Take a moment and find what caught your eye. It may be a lighthouse framed by a golden sunset, a lone tree in a field of wheat, or a unique individual in a crowd of people. Find the focus of your attention. It is always there. Second, compose your image. Don’t just snap and hope for the best. Photographs with no obvious subject, or one stuck in the middle of the frame tend to be boring and amateurish. Add flourish and excitement by having your subject appear slightly to one side and either higher or lower than the horizontal midline.

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This is known as the rule-of-thirds. Imagine your viewfinder divided into three equal parts both vertically and horizontally, and then place your subject at the intersection of two of those lines as shown by the circles in Figure 1. Third, whenever possible, include something in the foreground. This simple decision brings life and depth to the common two-dimensional landscape photograph. This way, instead of having a photograph of objects in the distance that are too far away to appreciate, you draw the viewer in, getting their attention up

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Saint-Seine-l’A bbaye, France.

Eiffel Tower, Paris.

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Photos: Norm Hamilton

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close first; followed by their appreciation of the vista in the background. Fourth, bring the viewer’s attention into your photograph using converging, curved or S-shaped lines. Is there a fence or a road that draws the eye into the picture? A winding path for the mind to travel on its way into the story the image creates? Combine these lines with the rule of thirds and your images will leap out at you, demanding your attention and enthralling everyone who views them.

where possible and, if any exist, include converging or winding lines. These easy techniques will help you create images that capture your one-ina-lifetime experience, so you will be proud to share them with the world. SL

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Figure 1 – “Rule of Thirds” A bonus suggestion: Make sure your photographs are pin-sharp, with no hint of camera shake, by using a tripod. You will appreciate that you did. Now, you may have noticed that each suggestion has one thing in common. That is, take your time. Slow down and appreciate the vision before you. Choose your subject, place it according to the rule of thirds, include foreground

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Puddle Jumping Through Prague BY JANE CASSIE

City view from Vyšehrad Hill

hat’s something that everyone hopes for when travelling? Good weather, right? Prior to this quick visit to the Czech Republic, we constantly check the long range, in hopes of magically transforming the gloomy forecast. And no matter how much we visualize bluebird skies, we still end up puddle jumping our way through Prague. “It’s the wettest spring we’ve had in 50 years,” says Pavla, the pony-tailed hotel receptionist who takes our damp luggage and checks us in. “But a drying trend is arriving sometime soon.” Unfortunately, “sometime” ends up being the operative word. Hotel 16, a Rick Steeves recommendation, is a quaint boutique property just a short walk from the cobblestone streets of Old Town. Fourteen generously-sized rooms sidle the skylightbright atrium, one of which becomes our holiday home for the next two days. And as well as silver service, goodies are a given throughout our stay: afternoon cappuccino and pastries, 24/7 bevies and a daily breakfast spread that appeases at least four rained-on nomads. We’re travelling with friends and this visit to Prague is just a pit stop en route to our main, Bucket-List must-do – a 15-day European river cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam. “A little rain won’t get in our way,” I say with optimism, when checking out the tourist map. “And being from the west coast, we’ve come prepared.” In short order, up go our umbrellas and on go the slickers. The nearby trolley busses offer a dryer mode of transit. Along with locals and other sightseers, we hop aboard one that zips us along the glistening streets, across bridges and up to the viewpoint atop Vyšehrad Hill. Even on grey days, this pinnacle provides a pretty panorama of the city’s red roof tops, church steeples and winding river. Steps away is the guarded Vyšehrad Citadel and a complex of buildings that’s been part of Czech’s history for over a thousand years. We ogle at gothic spires inside the cathedral, check out the Diet Hall, (no, nothing to do with food) where head gurus created the rules back in the 16th century, wander through the grand community hall and meander Golden Alley, a cottage-lined street that 24 22

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hugs up to the castle’s northern wall. Back in the day these colourful abodes housed everyone from blacksmiths to prisoners, many of whom were terribly tortured. A circular staircase leads to rooms where some of the vicious weaponry has been preserved behind glass. “Pretty brutal times,” my husband, Brent, comments, when checking out a gruesome-looking head-crushing device. “And all we have to complain about is a little drizzle.” Though it’s a wet one, the downhill sauntering is easy. Through the iron gates, past the castle guards, and along cobblestone paths – all the way to the Charles Bridge, a medieval-ager that has spanned River Vltava since 1347. It’s also where the hordes hang out – even on dull days. Painters, palm readers and pick-pocketers are all drawn to this tourist tromp. And not surprisingly, all are sporting their parasols during today’s crossing. “The water’s at an all-time high,” we’re informed by a vendor who’s huddled beneath a drenched canopy. “We may have to evacuate if it keeps rising.” But this dreary outlook doesn’t slow us down. We meander around the adjacent and popular Old Town Square, where some attractions date back to the 12th century. Immortalized in bronze and taking centre stage is Jan Hus, a famous fourteenth century philosopher who was considered to be the first church reformer. The statue was erected July 6, 1915, marking the 500th anniversary of his death. The tower and Astronomical Clock, a still functioning time piece, is another historical focal point that everyone flocks to, especially on the hour, when it goes into action. With craned necks, we witness the Walk of the Apostles, an entertaining display that’s marked by moving sculptures and ringing bells. For a price, we can climb to the top of the tower, a perch that provides a picturesque cityscape. But today, we pass on this overcrowded opportunity, thinking it likely best to wait until the sun shines. Instead, we check out the Romanesque and Baroque buildings and magnificent churches that rim the perimeter. We also duck into gift shops and touristy outlets to seek refuge from the rain. Finally, at the end of the day, the downpour diminishes and a few rays of sun sneak through. We celebrate at a sidewalk café, by dining on

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a few Czech favourites: glorious goulash, sensational schnitzel and mugs of thirst-quenching Pilsner. Unfortunately, this sun dance celebration is short lived. The next morning, Prague looks greyer than ever. Low-slung clouds filter around the hotel’s corniced rooftop like billowy cotton and fat droplets bounce off the adjacent sidewalk like water bombs. Like a duckling quartet, we head into the deluge, then decide to check out a few indoor malls, to seek reprieve. Lucerna Pasaz houses not only a cinema but a life-size statue of a horse, suspended upside down from the ceiling. And riding on the underside of its belly is Saint Wenceslas in shining armour created by sculptor, David Cerny. Although the next mall, Palladium, doesn’t boast any objets d’art, it does house nearly 200 stores that have lots of modern-day gems. Benetton, Ecco, Esprit, L’Occitane. Who says rain is a bad thing?

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Photos: Brent Cassie

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On the underside of full size horse Saint Wenceslas rides in shining armor.

Our third and final indoor recluse is currently one of the city’s raves. On the second floor of the ornate Municipal House in Wenceslas Square, renowned Czech-born art collector Ivan Lendl is showcasing his vast collection of posters done by Alfons Mucha (1860-1939). The two-hour visit to view these detailed works ends up being well worth the $20 admission. And by the time we leave, the rain has miraculously come to a stop. Outdoors is now a buzz of activity and we wander through the masses to the Jewish Quarter, where tree-lined streets are home to high-end shops and restaurants. Our final meal is at Kolkovna, a Pilsner Urquell original restaurant that’s known for its pub grub, and great beer. Though our pit stop to Prague has called for lots of puddle jumping, it’s been an amazing visit. And while clinking our beer steins and toasting to better weather, our server chimes in. “Have you heard? Many of the rivers are now closed to boating activity.” We think about our upcoming river cruise, our must-do Bucket-List trip. Will we be boating or bussing for the rest of our trip? That, undoubtedly, will be another story! SL

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Call 250-478-4888 753 Station Avenue, Victoria www.hayworth.ca JUNE 2014

25 23

Newfoundland to France – By Ferry

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The main square of Saint-Pierre.

The author by a Saint-Pierre store.

Cannons on the SaintPierre waterfront.

Photos: Gary Cullen

“A

fter our week in Newfoundland,” I tell friends, “we’ll take the ferry to France.” They nod enthusiastically and then confusion clouds their faces. “A ferry to France from Canada?” they ask. Absolutement! The French islands of Saint-Pierre et Miquelon are a short ferry ride away from south-east Newfoundland. How French are they? We are about to find out. On a bright, breezy morning, we sail from Fortune, Newfoundland on the M.V. Arethusa. Ninety minutes later, with passports stamped and Euros in our wallets, we are in France! Jacques Cartier claimed the islands for France on his second voyage in 1536. The first settlers arrived in the late 1600s and fishing has been the mainstay ever since. However, during American Prohibition, another industry blossomed. Large stocks of Canadian whiskey, legally exported and warehoused on Saint-Pierre, were bought by American rum runners, including Al Capone. Hundreds of thousands of cases per month were sold and it was a prosperous time for the islanders. In the main square are benches, a fountain, and a merrygo-round. Its cheery colours are only outdone by the vibrant paint combinations on some houses. Immediately we feel an atmosphere reminiscent of Brittany in northwest France. We dodge a few French-made, not available in Canada, Citroen cars zooming around the square and head uphill to our hotel. Our base camp is the Nuits Saint-Pierre, a boutique hotel run by the engaging Patricia, a sixth generation Saint-Pierrite. Down the hall from our elegantly appointed room is a kitchen for guests. A basket of croissants beckons. In short order, we have emptied steaming cups of tea and have a tabletop littered with crumbs from the flaky buns. Thus fortified, we set out to explore. As in so many European villages, wandering and absorbing the atmosphere is highly satisfying. Guarding the harbour is an arc of cannons, relics from years of conflict between the British and the French. Les Salines, a row of colourful sheds used to store fishing equipment, run along the water. The church has door handles in the shape of fish and its bell tolls regularly. Cats languidly guard their doorsteps. Most of the small yards are festooned with yellow blooming weeds which, being French, manage to look good against brightly painted houses. The viewpoint overlooking the town offers a panorama of the marina, the harbour and densely packed houses hugging the coastline. Hotly contested games of boules are played in a gravel square. Shop signs are all in French. While fresh foods

Photo: Karoline Cullen

BY KAROLINE CULLEN

are mostly imported from Canada, staples and goods are brought over from France. Having worked up appetites, we happily discover dinner menus are much more varied than what we saw in rural Newfoundland. The cooking is definitely French and holds up well to the standards set in the Mother country. And that brusque attitude French waiters are famous for? There’s a bit of that here, too. The next day I am on a ferry, squinting through the fog at the shoreline. I am going for a day trip to the neighbouring islands of Miquelon and Langlade with Marie and Jacques, a couple of ardent wildlife photographers. The ferry quay buzzes with activity as we disembark. Miquelon has a small town centre, where we stop for picnic provisions before checking out a couple of viewpoints. Scrubby brush covers the lower seaside, but the rolling hills are densely treed. A long isthmus connects Miquelon to Langlade and the road seems in danger of being overtaken by sea. Langlade is a sparsely populated summer retreat. We ease a zodiac out on a lagoon and photograph lounging gray seals. Hiking over grass-covered dunes, we spot wild flowers, bird watch, and pass groups of semi-wild horses. They range over the island most of the year but are housed and fed in the winters. Speaking of being fed, is there anything better than a French picnic? With a view over the marsh, we contentedly munch our baguette sandwiches, sip some hearty red wine, and savour the solitude. Back in St. Pierre at her tea salon, Lés Delices de Joséphine, Patricia’s joie de vivre comes through as she greets customers. Named for the woman who built the building in 1939, the salon has a casual flair in a contemporary setting. We can heartily attest to the deliciousness of the pastries. Both the food and the ambience of Saint-Pierre et Miquelon definitely settle the question of how French these islands are. The answer is very! SL For IF YOU GO information, visit www. seniorlivingmag.com/articles/nfld-tofrance-by-ferry

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Oregon Coast Road Trip BY CHRIS HERBERT

The Journey

Sadly, for me at least, today’s road trips bear little resemblance to childhood memories. Bumper-to-bumper vehicles travel the Washington I5, a route not for the faint of heart, 28 26

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or an aging one, for that matter. Our driver’s wheel still bears grip prints, scars from earlier trips. On one occasion, in an effort to avoid the I5 and enticed by a glossy brochure promising ocean view rooms and the best B&B, we return home along highway 101 north. Perhaps you too have read that brochure. No doubt you’ve heard the adage, don’t believe everything you read. Well, believe it. Not so easily deterred, we are determined that this trip will be different. Glossy pamphlet recycled, our GPS stored away, we set out with our AAA map in hand. Astoria will be our first stop. A stretch of the I5 from Bellingham to Burlington is inescapable as we exit at highway 20 for a short ferry ride to Historic Port Townsend. Back on dry land and being careful not to repeat our earlier misadventure, we continue south on the inland 101 highway, (it seems there are two highways 101). The road to Leland along the Hood Canal is clearly shown on the map, which proves to be important as Memories of days gone by. between the towns of Shelton and Arctic the highway number changes no fewer than four times. Much more enjoyable, this route is two lanes, snaking through small communities from Port Townsend to the Oregon border. Mans’ handy work and Mother Natures’ wrath are both evident as we pass a stretch of clear cut forest and the dregs left by the infamous wind storm of November 2007. Photo: Chris Herbert

roaring fire, a Scottish wool sweater and a hot cup of Earl Grey, these are my buffers against the west coasts’ winter chills. Mesmerized, I watch as the wind-driven rain forms rivulets that run top to bottom down the front window. Sandra has joined me clutching her own cup of tea. “Where would you like to go this summer?” she asks. Summer feels so distant on this day. Before I reply, Sandra continues. “What about the Oregon Coast?” A smile lights my face as I recall walks on endless beaches. Exhausted by days end being lulled to sleep by the rhythm of the waves crashing onto the sandy shore. “Remember those sunsets?” Sandra adds. “And the people we’ve met there?” With passing years, these are the joys of travel that I remember most fondly. So, just as sailors were drawn to the rocks by a Siren, our memories call us back to the Oregon Coast. It’s been said that it’s about the journey not the destination. I would agree. “Can you believe it’s been more than 50 years?” I ask Sandra, recalling a childhood trip. Roadside fruit stands, beach fires and burnt hotdogs, my memories all good ones now. “There was no air-conditioning to keep us cool back then,” I tell her. “We’d crank the windows down as we travelled the Fraser Canyon highway and pray for a breeze, and no seatbelts.” There was little danger of ejection, stuffed four-kids wide, our bare legs stuck to the vinyl rear seat. Our feet resting on a cooler of Mom’s sandwiches. The only emergency kit, a canvas water bag hanging precariously from the old Plymouths’ front bumper. All that and two weeks in a family tent pitched lakeside. Ah, the memories! I promise Sandra there will be no more childhood stories as we pack for our Oregon Coast road trip. We plan for warm sunny days and cool wet ones. We know from past experience that we will likely see both. Possibly on the same day.

The Destination

We’ve made good time as we pass Dismal Nitch and cross the Megler Bridge over the Columbia River between Washington and Oregon. Through the fog far below are pilings, deteriorating remnants of a once vigorous fishing industry. Our plan is to sleep under the bridge tonight. No worry, we do have a room. Astoria was incorporated in 1876 by fur traders and fishers and, over the years, has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. Key to the town’s undertaking is the five-mile long Riverwalk, serving as a pedestrian walk, cycle path and trolley route. Along the walk, we pass quaint cafés, small shops and

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working wharves. It’s dinner time. I had suggested a rustic restaurant we had enjoyed a few years earlier. Salivating over the thought of fresh seafood, we are devastated to find that the Cannery Café had burned to the ground. All that remains is a charred dock and our memories. Our cravings unsatisfied, we head further along the Riverwalk. There from a waterside patio we watch the fish boats, envisioning the catch of the day being dispatched to our table. Next, we head for the historic town centre. Twice devastated by fire, this part of Astoria has been undergoing a renaissance. Be sure to stop by Marie Antoinette’s Cupcakes. Let them eat cake. Day two, it’s foggy and cool again. It’s a short drive south is Cannon Beach, so named for the Navy schooner cannon that washed ashore in 1846. It’s touristy but family-oriented with beach bikes, gift shops, kids in “I heart Cannon Beach” hoodies, motels and family restaurants. We stop to stretch our legs, let the dog have a run and check on the iconic Haystack Rock. Then, it’s on to Lincoln City. Forty miles south, we could be forgiven for thinking that we’ve crossed an invisible border to all things Tillamook. Tillamook County, Tillamook Bay and the Tillamook Creamery Association better known as the wildly successful Tillamook Cheese Factory. If you like cheese or ice-cream – and who doesn’t – it’s worth the stop. Here highway 101 heads inland and past the towns of Beaver, Hebo and Oretown, before veering west again towards the Pacific Ocean. Islay, our Westie, wakes from her nap seemingly aware she’s about to spend her days running free, barking at the waves. Our small hotel is in full view and ear shot of those thundering waves that will lull us to sleep tonight. The hotel boasts fresh paint, king-size beds and a new name, yet it’s still cozy, dog friendly and we feel at home here. It’s time we tell Islay that her buddy Cody, the Schnauzer, has retired from his position at the front desk. We spend our days with Islay chasing incoming waves, and Sandra and I enjoying long walks in summer fog so dense you can taste the sea salt. Later, we join fellow guests, two- and four-legged at the Inn for a glass of Chardonnay. Named in a children’s contest, Lincoln City is an incorporation of small communities. Its economy is dependent on tourism, retired folks and a casino. It may not have the character of other towns, but Lincoln City does have characters. Take Ken Morris, chef. Ken’s persona and Humble Pie Pizza shop scream low-budget movie, but it’s also the home of possibly the best pizza south of the state line. Don’t get me started on his chocolate éclairs. So ends our road trip to the Oregon Coast. While nothing like my childhood memories, the inland drive was relaxing, the people and places stimulating. Even if our search for that SL elusive sunshine goes unfulfilled.

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TIME TRAVEL: NORTHERN ITALY AND THE CINQUE TERRE

BY JOAN W. WINTER

Portoﬁno

“M

mm, it’s so beautiful,” I murmur dreamily. “We have to go there.” My husband and I have been watching an Andrea Bocelli concert, broadcast live from Portofino, Italy. The music fades and the dream is forgotten, but a month or two later when discussing holiday plans, it comes back to us. The Liguria coast of northern Italy, the Cinque Terre villages, and Portofino have long been high on our Bucket List. Budget considerations mean we can only visit Europe every few years, but thoughts of the romantic Italian Riviera capture our imagination. This, we decide, is a can-do year. After a stopover in Paris, we fly to Genoa then take the

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train to Levanto, a small town that lies at the northern end of the enticing little ports of the Cinque Terre. We arrive midafternoon on a beautiful, September day. Knowing the small, family-run guesthouse that will be our home-away-fromhome for a week is close by, we decide to walk. Losing our way a little, hauling one suitcase each, we’re glad we remembered that when travelling in Europe you absolutely must travel light. Directed by kindly merchants and friendly pedestrians, we are soon being warmly welcomed by our hosts, sisters Elisa and Chiara and their mother, Graziella. Pleasant, unhurried and gracious, they provide us with maps, information about the town, attractions we may like to see

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Featured Business and a list of best places to eat. Our room, at the end of the garden between the tomato patch and the lemon tree, is perfect; clean, cool and quiet. A short rest and we are eager to explore. Levanto, we find, is a pedestrian-friendly seaside resort town of about 5,500 permanent residents, with many additional tourists and visitors during the summer months; sun-seekers who flock to walk its stunning ocean-hugging promenade and relax on its curving sweep of wide sandy beaches, swimming, sunning and surfing. Protected by two high headlands, the Mesco and the Levante, which jut out to sea, some beaches are public, some private, but all are accessible for walking. Leaving the beach we wander through old town, a fascinating maze of narrow streets and alleyways lined with tall, colourwashed villas, historic buildings, shops, quaint restaurants and sidewalk cafés. We stop for dinner at a pretty square, the Piazza della Loggia, graced on one side with an arched 13th century loggia – a stone-columned, medieval version of a covered patio. A delightful mix of very old and very new, Levanto’s history dates back to a settlement sometime in the first millennium. The day after we arrive, at the suggestion of our hostesses, we walk to nearby Bonassola, another lovely seaside town. It’s cool walking through old railway tunnels that divide the villages. We sample sardines for lunch, a local delicacy, but our plan to join an afternoon food and wine tour at the hilltop town of Framura goes somewhat awry. We take the train to the station, located below the town, only to find we’ve just missed a bus to the top; another not due for two hours. No problem, we’ll take the stairs, we say – but quickly change our minds when we hear from a descending tourist that it’s 676 steps to the top. Wow! With temperatures in the nineties and no extra water, Framura will have to wait. Many small towns and villages grace the Liguria coast and we want to see as much as we can, saving the Cinque Terre villages until the end of our stay. The following day, we explore Sestri Levante, a colourful little peninsular town, somewhat squished between two wide beaches. The streets are narrow, bright with flowers and alive with locals and tourists soaking up the sunshine. Despite its well-dressed appearance and smarter shops, the town has not lost any of its medieval charm. We sip fresh lemonade and eat at a funky little restaurant; just a simple Panini sandwich – Parma ham, strachioni (a very soft white cheese), tomatoes and basil on a crisp outside/soft inside roll. Delizioso! “Excuse me. Will you take our picture?” asks a fellow passenger in the ferry lineup, handing us her Smartphone. We are glad to oblige. We often offer to take pictures of fellow travellers, couples, families or groups, so everyone can be in the picture. It’s fun! The temperature has risen. Too hot for comfort, we abandon the land and opt for cooling sea breezes, sailing to the stunningly beautiful port towns of Portovenere and Lerici. We’re pleasantly surprised to find that, not only can we visit both towns with one return ticket, two boat rides for the price of one, but the boat calls at all the Cinque Terre villages on the way back. A fabulous photo opportunity for camera buffs, like us. Again, on the advice of our kind hostesses, who always have time to help us plan our day, we enjoy train and ferry rides to

The Peninsula at Norgarden

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njoy elegant retirement living in the heart of charming Sidney-ByThe –Sea. The Peninsula and Norgarden retirement communities offer the very best in Independent and Assisted Living choices for those seniors that wish to maintain their active lifestyle while freeing themselves from the daily chores of living alone. You can choose to live in a studio, one or two bedroom suite with a kitchenette or a full kitchen, whichever suits your needs. Independent Living is available at both locations as well as Assisted Living at The Peninsula. Assisted Living is for those residents that require a little more support with activities of daily living and can be put into place for a short time or increased as needs of the resident changes. Norgarden and The Peninsula buildings are noticeably smaller than most which allows us to create a more home-like friendly atmosphere. Beautiful mature gardens and patios surround the communities and welcome an afternoon stroll or some tea and a chat in the sun. The Peninsula and it sister residence, Norgarden, are family owned and operated by the Tidman Group. The Tidman Group is a local company with an impeccable reputation for quality and attention to detail seen throughout all of their developments. Our biggest asset by far is our outstanding staff which makes it their goal to create the best possible experience for all of our residents. Many of the staff have been with us since the opening of our community which creates consistency and familiarity that our residents can rely on. Imagine...the comfort and security of knowing staff is available 24 hrs a day to help you out in any situation, or even for a chat. Imagine...beautifully prepared meals created from fresh local ingredients by our own in house chefs. Imagine...fun adventures and activities to pique your interests or inspire a new hobby. Imagine...living in a beautiful seaside community that caters to a senior population. Come and see for yourself what sets Norgarden and The Peninsula apart from all the others.

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the resort towns of Camogli, San Fruttuoso, Portofino and Santa Margherita. As is our habit, we take identifying photographs of the names of each place we visit. Sadly, we do not meet Andrea Bocelli at Portofino, but the port towns are enchanting, similar, but each with its own unique character.

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A narrow street in Lerici.

Photos: Joan W. Winter

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Monterosso al Mare. We rise expectantly to our feet, but the train races on. Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore, villages we have travelled almost 6,000 miles to see whiz by, seen only through tantalizing breaks in the tunnel walls. With a final triumphant burst of speed like a horse returning to its stable, a squeal of brakes and absolutely no trace of apology, the train deposits its passengers at La Spezia, the end of the line. Despite our amazement at this unforeseen adventure, we have to laugh. With other equally surprised passengers, we cheerfully purchase return tickets and catch the next train back. The Cinque Terre (five lands), now a national park and territory protected by UNESCO, is comprised of five small fishing villages perched precariously along the rugged cliffs of the Liguria Sea. Ruined castles, fortifications and handsome churches sit high on the hillsides, testimony to wealth and power of a bygone era. Houses stacked like brightly coloured building blocks, pink, red, orange and yellow, hugging the sheer rock face, seem to defy gravity. Legend says houses were painted in brilliant colours so fishermen could recognize their homes from the sea. Fishing was a way of life, and fish is strongly featured in Ligurian cuisine. As rugged as the hilly, almost impossible terrain of steeply terraced hillsides with little arable land, land that can sometimes only be reached by boat or farmed by hand, man has grown vines and olives here for 25 centuries, since they were introduced by the Etruscans or Greeks. Local wineries offer tastings and proprietors proudly share their prized vintages. Limoncello, a liqueur

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distilled from rinds of fresh organic lemons, became one of our favourites. The villages, once isolated, are all accessible by walking paths, local trains or by sea. There is minimal car access inside the area. The walking paths are very popular, but unfortunately a devastating flood and slide in 2011 caused major damage to the paths and villages. Some paths are still closed, or under repair. Visiting each of the picturesque villages by trains that connect them through a series of dark mountain tunnels, we spend the next three days exploring, wandering the narrow hilly streets, bright seaside squares, shops and bars. We eat at small cozy restaurants that tumble into the streets, serving fresh, locally grown produce and wine. We hike high above the towns where the view is spectacular, and then climb down a zillion stone steps to natural harbours alive with boats, swimmers, and people enjoying the late summer sunshine. Sitting on rocks by the ocean, lazily watching boats come and go, we feel as if we are time travellers, returned to a time gone by when life was simpler. There are no cars in the streets here, no multinational presence, no high-rises or fast food chains. The air is fresh and invigorating. Romantic, relaxing and stunningly beautiful, it is a place we’d like to return to SL again and again.

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For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag. com/articles/northern-italy-cinque-terre

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Whatcom County’s Small Town Secrets BY RICK AND CHRIS MILLIKAN

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buildings after Chicago’s devastating fire. He invested $4,700 in 60 acres here and settled along the Nooksack River. His son, Otis, retained the original furnishings, so it’s easy to visualize this family’s busy and comfortable life in their home’s spacious rooms. The kitchen was designed to accommodate food preparation for farm crews. Collections of ever-improving irons, vacuum cleaners and washing machines are displayed in the enormous attic. The Hovanders clearly led up-to-date lifestyles.

Pioneer post ofﬁce in Ferndale.

Photos: Rick and Chris Millikan

or adventures closer to home, we slip across the border to investigate pioneer enterprise and shenanigans in Whatcom County. Lynden’s downtown reflects a charming Dutch heritage. These hard-working immigrants farmed this fertile area, built Reformed Christian Churches… and established the state’s largest small museum. Inside this notable museum, renditions of early buildings overflow with period artifacts; a soda shop recalls the ’50s. Beside a lean-to, photos of giant evergreens and forestry equipment remind us of British Columbia’s bygone days. Yet lands cleared here largely became pastures for dairy farming. An egg-sorter and posters illustrate how Lynden was the state’s poultry centre. Nowadays, this area is famous for raspberry production. At a replicated cabin, guide Troy asks, “What d’ya think was the settlers’ most valued book?” Someone guesses the Bible. “Nope! Most brought these massive dictionary-almanacs, predicting weather, informing them about farming practices and even state law!” A piano and other musical instruments recall evening entertainments. Downstairs, Troy grins, “To preserve carriages replaced by motor vehicles, local farmer Pollander began storing his own – and soon all his neighbours’ in his barn! Town councillors originally established this museum to exhibit his large collection of early transportation!” We look over farm wagons, a luxurious landau, dogcart, stagecoach, Irish shay and somber hearse. Pausing at the horse-drawn ambulance, Troy notes the stretcher space under the seat, and points out the hansom cab’s design allowing passengers private conversations. Over in Ferndale, a group of similarly proud descendants collected log cabins. Lovingly maintained by volunteers, a grassy lawn in Pioneer Park embraces 16 rustic structures. Guides tour visitors through many, helping everyone imagine typical rural life in early northwest Washington. In a blue-checked, gingham dress and frilly white bonnet, Louise leads us into the one-room schoolhouse past rows of wooden desks, a general store with shelves overflowing with dry goods and a tiny church. After peeking into the small log jail, we spot the centrally situated outhouse, one of 7,000 built by F.D.R.’s public works programs. These facilities ended diseases resulting from unsanitary septic systems. Our visit concludes with lemonade and fresh baked scones in one of 11 log homes. Nearby, Hovander Farm reveals one of Washington’s finest public legacies. From local fir and cedar, Hakan Hovander built its enormous barn and grand family farmhouse trimmed with turn-of-the-century-styled gingerbread. Inside, we view a picture of Hakan’s palatial Swedish home, sold to Sweden’s King. He migrated to America and before long was designing new

Visiting Fairhaven District, we begin to learn about Bellingham’s fascinating and gritty past. On a huge wall, murals depicting this early town flank a whitewashed movie screen; vinecovered trellises frame Village Green. Above the grassy quad, a lanky bronze “Dirty” Dan sits on a bench, gazing perpetually over his creation. From landmark Village Books, owner Chuck shows us around the heritage neighbourhood recounting the past, “The original red and ochre brick buildings initially housed rambunctious, turn-ofthe-century enterprises… and later evolved into homes for our modern endeavors. Our Pythias Building was once a meeting place for secret societies and illegal speakeasies.” Walking on, he tells us, “In the 1920s, the two-story Schering building replaced an original saloon and eatery with a large hardware store. Then, in the ’40s the second floor was reinforced to support a dance hall for Croatians who came here for the fishing and canning industry. This space was later readapted for boatbuilding. Nowadays, it has a glass shop and alehouse.” With a similar rollicking start, Morgan House Hotel now contains artists’ studios, fine woodworking and pottery galleries. “The Mason Block has always hosted professional offices,” Chuck continues. “Mark Twain was its reading room’s most dis-

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tinguished reader. A few years later, Andrew Carnegie created the Fairhaven library making that room redundant. The 1888 Terminal Building is Fairhaven’s oldest. When its saloon and billiard parlor folded, it gained a bicycle shop and later cigar stores and barbershops.” We notice a coffee shop there now. Revelations await us next door in Dirty Dan’s Steakhouse. While dining on sumptuous seafood, the owner’s son recounts the colourful life of Dirty Dan Harris. “Fairhaven’s founder was an intrepid adventurer. Starting as a whaler at age 15, Dan sailed the world, landing in Japan, New Zealand, Antarctica and Arctic.” We learn that in Honolulu he quit whaling, journeyed to Fort Victoria and became a trader during the Cariboo Gold Rush. Smuggling and often doing downright grubby work, his nickname became Dirty Dan. Developing Fairhaven from dense wilderness, he sold this town site in 1888 for $70,000. Speculators believed it had become an important western rail terminal. Moving to California, Dirty Dan made further investments in Los Angeles – and died “filthy” rich! Downtown, we join the Good Time Girls for a Sin and Gin walking tour. Clad in buxom bawdy wear, Annie Jo and Magnolia Pearl stand ready to reveal Bellingham’s seedy past. Magnolia explains, “We’re standing at the edge of the old red light district, then legal. Atop these very YMCA building’s steps, Preacher Billy Sunday successfully urged highfalutin’ society types to criminalize Bellingham’s sex trade!” Goodnaturedly, everyone shouts, “Boooo!” Magnolia grins, “Now,

let’s stroll on down this alleyway and see two former bordellos.” Looking toward an abandoned building, Magnolia points out its weathered backdoors. “Loggers and miners would drink and carouse openly… but wanted their intimacies hush-hush. Those offered priSin & Gin tour guides dress vacy; the beautiful the part. ladies inside also wanted to avoid recognition, so ventured here from faraway towns.” Onward, Annie points out many former saloons and brothels along Railroad Avenue. “This area was a hotbed of activity, attracting rich clientele arriving on trains. Cunning Madams advertised their new girls here, provocatively parading and sashaying them around.” In front of a tattoo parlor Annie shows us titillating photos, “Although tatting needles were painful, such 19th century women had naughty tattoos inked in prominent places.”

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Stopping below old city hall, Magnolia notes, “Sin made lottsa money. One hour of these ladies’ time easily surpassed a week’s pay canning fish! When councillors outlawed prostitution, city budgets suffered greatly in lost taxes! Then, Washington State passed the Prohibition law in 1919, closing down drinking establishments, losing even more revenue.” As broad-minded taxpayers, we boo loudly! Magnolia adds, “Prostitution and drinking alcoholic beverages became clandestine activities. Raids resulted in big fines, which replaced only some of these lost taxes.” Our walk into historic hooch and hoochie-coo concludes at a local bar. As the bartender blends up authentic 1920s cocktails, Annie and Magnolia pass platters of fresh local oysters and help us understand saloon-era culture. We sip our delicate “no shrinking violets” and hearty “scofflaws.” Magnolia cheekily smiles, “Y’know… oysters have long been considered aphrodisiacs!” Returning to our swank Silver Reef Hotel accommodation, the night clerk asks about our day. We tell him about our Whatcom County investigations, including our racy evening. He winks, “Yes, our small town secrets can be very SL entertaining!”

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Hovander farmhouse in Ferndale. For IF YOU GO information, visit www.seniorlivingmag.com/articles/ small-town-secrets

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ATTRAC

Burnaby Village Museum

Burnaby Village Museum is a place Where History Comes to Life. Stroll down the streets of a 1920s village exploring at your own pace. Watch demonstrations, ride the carousel, rediscover the elegance of the Interurban and indulge in a treat from the Ice Cream Parlour. More special event information at www.burnabyvillagemuseum.ca See ad, page 37

Chemainus Theatre presents Les Misérables

Winner of over 100 international awards and seen by over 65 million people worldwide, Les Misérables sweeps its audience through an epic tale of broken dreams, passion and redemption, against the backdrop of a nation in the grip of revolution. June 20–Sept 7, 2014. More info at www.chemainustheatrefestival.ca See ad, page 36

Get West Vancouver Island Adventure Cruises

Departing from Gold River, BC, the MV Uchuck III navigates Nootka Sound, Esperanza Inlet and Kyuquot Sound. Along the route, watch supplies and kayakers being off-loaded at remote villages, fish farms, logging camps and lodges. Marvel at the wildlife, seabirds and stunning remote coastal scenery. To learn more about 1-, 2- and 3-day cruises, visit www.getwest.ca See ad, page 37

Linden Singers – Canada, eh?

Join the Linden Singers for a musical trip across the country. Showcasing composers from coast to coast, the programme Canada, eh? will be as varied as the landscape of our nation. A commissioned piece by David Archer will also be premiered. Performance on Sunday, June 22 at First Metropolitan United Church, Victoria. See ad, page 38

Science World presents the Science of Sports

Science World is proud to bring you their latest feature exhibition, Science of Sports. Fun for the whole family, the exhibition explores the wide world of sports from all angles. Find out what it takes to be a pro athlete and what you can do to become stronger, swifter and smarter. Visit www.scienceworld.ca or telephone 604-443-7440. See ad, page 39

Sooke Philharmonic Orchestra offers Double Treat

The Sooke Philharmonic Orchestra’s June 2014 Solstice Spectacular concerts promise two rare treats. One is the Bartok Concerto for Orchestra, conducted by Maestro Norman Nelson. The other is the beautiful Tschaikovsky Violin Concerto, with 14-year-old soloist Alice Haekyo Lee. 38 36

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CTIONS Haekyo Lee is studying at the Toronto Conservatory of Music. She played Saint-Saens’ Violin Concerto No.3 with the orchestra in October 2012, and we are delighted to have her back. About the Concerto for Orchestra, Norman Nelson says, “In 1957, I started performing this work when I joined the London Symphony Orchestra. Since then, having played most of Bartok’s symphonic output many times, I have come to know and love his wonderful music and, of course, especially this last great Concerto. I want to offer music lovers a chance to hear this unique and passionate music played live.” The Concerto for Orchestra is an amazing work with constantly shifting colours and rhythms, and goes from delicate to playful, tragic to jocular, subtle to rough – all with a Hungarian accent. Beethoven’s Egmont Overture begins the program. Saturday, June 28, 7:30pm at Sooke Community Theatre. Tickets available online at www.sookephil.ca or at Sooke ticket outlets; in Westshore at Tom Lee Music; in Metchosin at the Metchosin Country Store. Sunday, June 29, 7:30pm at the University of Victoria Farquhar Auditorium. Tickets available online at www.tickets.uvic. ca or at the UVic Ticket Centre 250-721-8480. For information, visit www.sookephil.ca, email info@sookephil.ca or telephone 250-419-3569. See ad, page 36

Victoria Hippo Tours

Hippo Tours are unique tours that take you around the city, travelling both on land and water. Specially designed amphibious vehicles carry 40 passengers and function as both bus and boat. During your continuous 90-minute trip onboard the Hippo, you will see many of Victoria’s best attractions, while also getting a glimpse of local life. You will enjoy a relaxing tour around the city before splashing into the Pacific Ocean for the second half of your journey. Join them on one of three buses: Harry, Happy and Henrietta. With knowledgeable staff and tour guides, you will experience a trip like never before on the Bus That floats! More info at www. victoriahippotours.com See ad, page 39

Where History Comes to Life

Theatre in the Country – New Dinner Theatre in the Fraser Valley

Theatre in the Country is a new entertainment venue in Maple Ridge, BC, dedicated to presenting classic theatre pieces in an intimate and friendly style. Artistic Director Reg Parks says, “We want people to feel like they have seen a fabulous show with a great meal in the company of good friends.” Catch their upcoming performances of The Sound of Music. See ad, page 39

Free Gate Admission! Thanks to our partners:

6501 Deer Lake Ave | burnabyvillagemuseum.ca

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ATTRACTIONS & ENTERTAINMENT

Casablanca at the Dunbar “L

ouis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.” You know the line and you know the movie it came from. Casablanca has become a film standard. A chance for me to enjoy it again on the big screen was also a chance to revisit a Vancouver neighbourhood classic: the Dunbar Theatre. I was reintroduced to The Dunbar with an invitation to view a digitally remastered Casablanca. The movie was a labour of love for producer Hal Wallis and the Dunbar Theatre plays the same role for owner Ken Charko. Fifteen years ago, Ken began working at the theatre as part of a summer project for university. A beautiful friendship indeed blossomed, and he has been owner since his graduation. “We’re not only a movie house,” says Ken. “We like to think of ourselves as Dunbar’s local community theatre.”

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Emcees Susan Skemp (right) and Phil Moriarty looking Hollywood posh with an audience member at Dunbar Theatre.

It wasn’t always that way. The art deco building constructed in 1935 has always been a movie theatre but ownership by Odeon and Famous Players alternated with closures that could have ended with demolition. It’s an expensive piece of city real estate and

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MAGAZINE

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Photo: Paul Fitzgerald

BY JOHN HARRIS

neighbourhood movie theatres are mostly on hard times. Undaunted, Ken has poured over $300,000 into new seating and a stateof-the-art digital projection system. I gladly attest to the comfort of the new seats and Ingrid Bergman never looked more ravishing on screen than in the digitized rescreening – still in the original black and white. Music plays a big role in Casablanca and made for a fun start to the evening at the Dunbar. The mood was bouyed by emcees cum performers Susan Skemp and Phil Moriarty, both looking Hollywood posh and singing hits from the movies. They were witty, charming and they can really sing. They had some help; everyone was invited to sing along – and did they!

“Que Sera Sera” and “The Lady Is a has tried 20 different times to see CasTramp” were on the bill, and we all ablanca and this was the first time he had fun with the chorus. The highlight actually got to see the movie! His verwas watching everybody, from an 80- dict? Very much worth the wait. year-old couple to giggling preteens, The music, the repartee, the dressing up and jumping to “La Bamba”! up and the glorious looking CasablanPreparing the lively preshow took ca made for a relaxed but memorable a lot of work by the Dunbar staff and evening. It’s all part of Ken Charko’s some volunteers and they delivered strategy of making the Dunbar more a warm and funny community event than just a local movie house. Ken – exactly what Ken Charko hopes for says making the theatre available for whenever he opens the doors of the other events and community groups Dunbar. helps both the bottom line and deepens All this hard work is paying off; the the strong connection with the Dunbar mood of the crowd at Casablanca was neighbourhood. a combination of friendly curiousity But his plan isn’t really driven by and happy familiarity. My wife says it profits. Ken’s roots here are strong and brought back a lot of memories of her his contributions to the community go girlhood, walking to the Dunbar every far beyond the doors of the Dunbar. Saturday with a quarter for her ticket Visit the Dunbar Theatre at 4555 and a dime for popcorn. Dunbar Street in Vancouver or see ��The days of 25 cent tickets are long showtimes and other special events gone but the Dunbar’s family friendly online at www.Facebook.com/Dun�� price of eight dollars helps bring new barTheatre. �� kids to the theatre. Who knows? You may rekindle �� SL Besides singing along with the em- your own beautiful friendship. �� cees, the audience came prepared to dress the part, too. Ron McCormick chose a match for Sydney Greenstreet’s character Ferrari, complete with gaudy turban. Other fellows simply wore a fedora and a few ladies wore a wide-brimmed hat, but there were also some pretty glam dresses in Hollywood scarlet and silver lame. Ron won first prize! The real story, though, is that Ron

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Fit for the Adventure

BY EVE LEES

Swimming for Fitness

ravelling abroad this summer? Pack your swimming gear, even if you aren’t a skilled swimmer. Get wet, instead of sitting poolside being splashed by people who kick their feet above the waterline. Pools, lakes and oceans are nature’s fitness centres, keeping you fit on your holiday. Swimming or doing exercises in the water challenges the heart and lungs and your balance. Speed walking in water will also improve muscular strength. The faster you move, the more resistance. In addition, you’ll burn more calories than land exercise at the same speed and intensity. Walking, running, or calisthenics can be done in shallow or shoulder-deep water. Use different strides (short, long, backwards, sideways) to work different muscles and avoid boredom by varying your movements. Increase or slow your speed to suit your level of fitness or to adjust the

�� by Gipp Forster A collection of Gipp’s humorous and nostalgic columns. A wonderful read for yourself, and Reflections, �� a thoughtful gift and Other Breakfast Foods for friends and family members.

intensity of the water’s resistance (the faster you move, the harder your muscles work). To further increase intensity and ensure good traction, wear “aqua” shoes in smooth-bottomed pools. Because of water’s resistance, shallow water exercise improves muscle strength more than a low-impact aerobics class. You’ll also strengthen the abdominals and the lower back because you are constantly contracting these muscles to perform many of the movements. If you want to monitor your exercise heart rate, keep in mind you have a lower maximum heart rate during water exercise than exercise on land; about 10-15 beats per minute (BPM) lower. The water’s pressure and coolness slows the heart rate. Besides your bathing suit, consider packing aqua shoes, goggles, earplugs and nose plugs. Aqua shoes provide traction in the

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pool, to enable a more powerful push with each step as you speed walk. They prevent slipping on the pool deck, and protect your feet from sharp objects in the pool, lake or ocean – as well as the hot sand on the beach! Goggles reduce eye irritation from chlorine, salty water, and protect against water-borne infections. Goggles also improve underwater vision, allowing you to really appreciate that spectacular coral reef. Earplugs are advised if you are prone to ear problems, or to avoid “swimmers ear” and other water-borne infections. Nose plugs are useful when diving, jumping or while water skiing. They prevent water being forced into your nasal passage, to protect you from chlorine, salty water and any infections. Choose outdoor pools, if possible; chlorine gas dissipates in open air. Indoor pools may expose you to large amounts of trapped chlorine gas, which can trigger asthma symptoms and other health problems. On your holidays, enjoy a refreshing workout in the water. Don’t let those water splashers discourage you. And incidentally, kicking the feet above the waterline not only annoys others, it also slows the swimming speed. SL

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Eve Lees was a Personal Trainer and Nutrition Counsellor for 30 years. Currently she is a Freelance Health Writer and Speaker. www.artnews-healthnews.com

BY PAT NICHOL

Salut Mes Amis!

s I write this from Avignon in Southern France, the mistral has been blowing strongly for the past two days. Apparently, in France, if you commit a major crime, you can use the mistral as a defence. I can understand why. Just now it seems to be settling down – as I am getting ready to move on. In my last column I spoke about my concerns about this trip and I’m pleased to say that, halfway through, I am doing okay. My first three days were solo and I couldn’t have picked a better start. I fell in love in Bruges – with everything: the food, the people, the sights and sounds. Brussels was interesting, but my heart stayed in Bruges. Everywhere I turned, there was an angel willing to help. Like the senior conductor on the train from Brussels to Paris, who even went so far as to store my luggage and then pull it out in Paris. Next challenge –the Paris Metro! But I did it! I asked lots of questions, and voilà! I walked out of the Metro just a short cab ride from my hotel. The rest of the trip, to this point, has been with a group of 34 people from several continents. We have built a rapport and enjoy each other’s company both on and off the bus. Group travel is a great way to get your feet wet. Only one other among us is a firsttime group traveller. All of the rest, including my roommate Elaine, have done at least 12 in various countries around the world. Our fearless and patient leader, Virginie, is slowly teaching us French. My best phrase is: “Je suis desole, je ne parle pas français.” By the time I

spit it out, the lovely person I am speaking with is already telling me they speak English. But I am trying and I’m being polite – just as I would at home. We have toured wineries, olive oil presses, and spent time in Monaco, on the Riviera and in Chamonix. My room tonight overlooks an ancient walled city from the 14th Century. I have walked cobblestones in tiny medieval hill towns. Today, on the way to see a roman aqueduct, I hugged an olive tree over 1,000 years old. I am learning from others, both an-

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Photo: Frances Litman

COURAGEOUS and OUTRAGEOUS

cient wisdom and why things happen as they do in other countries. I will come home wiser and with an unquenchable desire to do it all again. It is a wonderful way to expand your horizons, solo or group, I challenge you. “When you go somewhere, it’s not what you do, it’s what you see, it’s who SL you meet.” Pat Nichol is a speaker and published author. Reach her at mpatnichol@gmail.com or visit www.patnichol.com

JUNE 2014

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CLASSIFIEDS

COLLECTOR SEEKING vintage/collectable cameras, binoculars and microscopes. Nikon, Leica, Contax, Rolleiﬂex, Zeiss, Canon, etc. Mike 250-383-6456 or e-mail: msymons6456@telus.net (Victoria)

WANTED: OLD POSTCARDS, old photographs, and pre1950 stamped envelopes. Also buying old coins, medals and badges. Please call Michael 250-652-9412 or email fenian@shaw.ca

HEALING CONSULTANT Marcia Goodwin R.N.,B.Sc.N. Assessing, troubleshooting, problem-solving your health concerns in the comfort of your home. • Professional • Thorough • Conﬁdential. 250-686-3081. (Victoria Area)

RUTH M.P HAIRSTYLING for Seniors in Greater Victoria. In the convenience of your own home! Certiﬁed Hairdresser. Please call - 250-893-7082.

ALWAYS GREAT FEET. Nanaimo’s professional mobile foot care nurses. Debbie Mason LPN and John Patterson LPN. Home, facility, and hospital visits. Experienced, qualiﬁed nursing foot care for toenails, corns, calluses and ingrown nails. Direct billing for DVA clients. 250-390-9266. NATURAL INSTINCTS MASSAGE Sensual, nurturing, pampering and professional. This magical touch caters to your needs and comfort...Rejuvenating. 250-744-0705. Victoria Area. DRIVING MISS DAISY VANCOUVER ISLAND Victoria 250-588-4638 - Sidney/Peninsula 250-507-2336 - Westshore 250-813-0440 - Qualicum/Parksville 250-937-8812 - Comox Valley 250-650-2010 - Nanaimo 250-667-1446. FORGET-ME-NOT SUPPORT SERVICES Kindly helping Seniors live. independently longer. I want to help you with all your needs. Always with love. Can provide pet companion. Call Katherine 778-265-0227. Greater Victoria. FAMILY CAREGIVER WORKSHOPS Developed by dementia care experts. Caring for a loved one with dementia? Techniques to manage behaviours and activities to encourage engagement. Call to register for June 10 and 12, 2-4pm. Cost: Free. Location: Home Instead Senior Care Resource Centre. Call 250-382-6565.

HAVEN HOME CARE LTD. In home care providers. Helping our clients lead dignified independent lifestyles. Greater Victoria. 250-213-3684 www.havenhomecare.ca SENSUAL MASSAGE. Are you missing touch? I’m a Certified Sexological Bodyworker, I work with Couples and Individuals. Sher 250-889-4166 or sexeducator@telus.net ALERT LOVED ONES when events such as a fall or wandering occur - with no pendant or monthly fees! BC grant can cover all costs! Contact Jason at 604-200-0080 or info@brilliantbuilding.com IN HOME PERSONAL CARE and foot care. We treat your loved ones like our own. Lower Mainland 604-807-0991. DEBI’S MOBILE HAIR SERVICES in the comfort of your home for everyone in your family. Serving the Victoria area. Please call Debi at 250-477-7505. GARDEN MAINTENANCE Certified Horticulture Technician can tend to your beautiful garden. Oak Bay or Downtown Victoria. Reasonable rates. Fiona fmac1000@gmail.com RHONDA’S REFLEXOLOGY VICTORIA services offered from your home. Certified in first aid and CPR. Extensive knowledge in Diabetes. Please call 250-818-0899.

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$45for for20 20words, words,$1.75/extra word $45 250-479-4705 | 1-877-479-4705 ofﬁce@seniorlivingmag.com AT YOUR SERVICE, serving Campbell River and Quadra Island. Personalized Non-Medical Compassionate Care, especially for you. I am here to help, call Marilyn 250-204-3346. PERSONALS ACTIVE FEMALE SENIOR would like to meet other seniors who go ﬁshing and enjoy nature. 778-432-2553 Greater Victoria. ��

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We are Casalinga, a local BC owned and operated meal delivery service. We have been serving veterans, seniors, bachelors and families in the Greater Vancouver area for over 20 years with an assortment of complete ready-made meals and we now deliver to Vancouver Island. Thanks to the overwhelming response from Victoria customers last month, we are now planning to expand to the mid-island region. Our gourmet quality meals are prepared using the freshest ingredients, never processed foods, pressed meat products or additives. We stand by our mantra; if we don’t make it the best, we won’t make it at all. We work hard to bring you a great meal, guaranteed! Our massive non-generic menu has items such as Cabbage Rolls, Chicken & Dumplings, Thai Curry Prawns, Seafood Lasagne, BBQ Baby Back Ribs, Salmon Wellington, Stuffed Sole Filet with Crab, Shrimp and Scallops, and classics such as Liver and Onions, Fried Chicken, and Shepherd’s Pie. Our menu constantly evolves with new and tasty items each month, so you won’t get tired of the same food. This month we added some authentic indian dishes. Also, fresh baked pies made daily, not frozen (beef steak mushroom and wine pie, strawberry rhubarb pie and cornish pastry pie). Our gluten free & vegan meal selections contain non-medicated and organic ingredients, offering a healthy alternative. We provide the best quality, economical, ready-made meals and fresh food products in the Lower Mainland - from Hope to West Vancouver. We now deliver to the Greater Victoria area. Coming soon to Nanaimo, Parksville and Qualicum Beach. In May we were in Toronto pitching one of our popular food products on CBC’s Dragons Den. Tune in during the fall to see what happened. Deliveries are once a week to your area. Order by phone or online. Meals start as low as $5.50. Delivery $5, free delivery on orders over $40. ��

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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Basic: $45 for 20 words $1.75/extra word. BW only. Red spot color 10% extra. + GST Boxed Ads Single (2.3”w x 1.3”h) - Text only $135 | With image $160 Double (2.3”w x 2.6”h) - Text only $270 | With image $295 Prepaid discounts on 6+ Boxed Ads. Ads must be paid at time of booking. Cheque / Credit Card accepted. Phone: 250-479-4705 ext 100 ofﬁce@seniorlivingmag.com Deadline: 15th of the month. Make cheque payable to: Senior Living, Magazine 153, 1581-H Hillside Ave., Victoria BC, V8T 2C1

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FOREVER BY WILLIAM THOMAS

The Day I Threw an Airline Pilot Under The Bus

here’s a YouTube video on the net of the old TV show To Tell The Truth. Very popular in its day, it shows host Joe Garagiolo introducing the Great Imposter. The panel has to correctly select the Great Imposter from a line-up of three guys and two of them are not the real guy, so they also are imposters. His deposition: “I, Frank William Abagnale, am known as the world’s greatest imposter. In the course of my nefarious career, I’ve pawned myself as a doctor, a lawyer, a stock broker and the pilot of a major airline. For six years, I also cashed $2,500,000 in bad cheques in 26 countries. Ultimately, I was sentenced to 72 years in prison; I served one year in France, one year in Sweden and four years in a federal prison in the United States. Parolled, I now devote my life to the prevention and detection of crime.” Back in the spring of 2001, I filled in for the Great Imposter. Five hundred Canadian travel agents attended a conference in Cascais, Portugal and I was one of four speakers booked for the week-long conclave. Frank, who at this point in his life had gone from career criminal to motivational speaker was the keynote. Then there was Robert Sharma (The Monk Who Sold His Ferrari), Elaine Denby listed as a motivator/chiropractor (“get your life together or I’ll manipulate your neck”) and me. I even brought Frank’s book Catch Me If You Can – The True Story of a Real Fake for him to sign. Steven Spielberg had directed the movie Catch Me If You Can starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Hanks. The movie grossed $352 million worldwide, and it must have killed Frank not to have embezzled that too. So, the night before it all starts we’re all tasting wine in a candlelit cavernous wine 46 44

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cellar up in the mountains of Sintra when the event meeting planner came up to me, white as a ghost. “Frank Abagnale,” she said breathlessly. The Great Imposter? He’s a ‘no show.’” “Oh, no,” I said, feeling her pain. “Now you’re our keynote speaker. You go on tomorrow morning.” “Oh, no,” I said, feeling my own pain. “Absolutely,” I said, “I’ll do whatever it takes.” Looking back, I realize I was too stupid to say: “How much were you paying Frank?” Frank had given some lame excuse about being turned back by the airline in Chicago because he tried to use his own Air Mile points to fly to Lisbon. I suppose if you’ve surgically removed a guy’s spleen while holding a doctor’s operating manual in your other hand, then ripping the heart out of a meeting planner is not such a big deal. The travel people were noticeably not happy about this and tomorrow morning I could well become their target of disappointment. So, I rejigged my speaking notes and led off with a new presentation titled: “Bury Frank.” There I was, standing in front of 500 disgruntled conference goers substituting for Frank Abagnale who, even today, remains No. 1 on the list of the World’s Most Successful Con Men. Honest. Charles Ponzi, who invented the “Ponzi scheme” and was Bernie Madoff’s mentor, is No. 2. (And no, I checked, Benny Hinn didn’t even crack the Top 10.) “Thank you for coming out this morning, I hope you’re not too disappointed that you get to hear me speak and not Mr. Abagnale because, frankly, I have spent WWW.SENIORLIVINGMAG.COM

very little of my life in jail.” A few people found humour in this. My mother would have been proud. “Yes, I’ve lived a very sheltered life. I mean in the ’70s, while Frank was screwing over good people like you, I was just trying to pay off my student loan.” They were coming around, nodding in agreement. “And believe me, if I’d have known you could write cheques on other people’s bank accounts, I could have paid those loans off a lot sooner.” And then we were off to the races. “Frank claims he couldn’t get on his flight here to Lisbon but, really, you would think a guy who impersonated an airline pilot would be able to read a boarding pass.” “I’m sure Frank is a great motivator and would have made a fine keynote speaker but the good news is when you shake my hand later, your watch will still be on your wrist.” “Seriously, I’m sure Frank’s a great guy and it’s a shame that when he goes to Sunday dinner, the in-laws still lock the silver in the trunk of their car.” Oh yeah, I was relentless… and it worked. All humour needs is a victim and the guy who disappointed 500 people with a lame excuse about his Air Mile points was perfect. March 28, 2001, the day I threw a phoney airline pilot under the proverbial bus. And believe me, the people at that conference who had come especially to hear Frank speak wished it had been a Greyhound inSL stead of a “proverbial” bus. For comments, ideas and copies of The True Story of Wainﬂeet, www.williamthomas.ca

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