KNOW BEFORE

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

10 things to consider before your first expedition

Story and Photos by | Alex Metcalfe

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Embarking on your first fully-fledged expedition is a huge undertaking. There’s inherent risk and uncertainty – you’ll face unfamiliar territory, challenging conditions and perhaps an ambitious step up from what you’re used to. There’s also a huge amount of reward on offer, but, as is the case with almost anything in the outdoors, preparation is key.

With two climbing seasons in the Alps under his belt and having recently relocated to Scotland for his first winter season in the Highlands, Alex Metcalfe was after a bigger challenge, in bigger mountains. So when he stumbled upon an advert in the Alpine Club newsletter requesting team members for a ‘small but challenging expedition to Central Asia’, he spared no time in joining and, with the support of Montane, was soon on his way to Tajikistan to embark on new unclimbed routes in the Pamir. With all the makings of an epic foray into bigger mountain environments, the expedition team were the first to climb a 5300m peak and, due to heavy snowfall, were forced to turn around close to the summit on another just shy of 6000m.

Here he shares ten tips to help you make your first climbing expedition a successful one.

#1 BUILD THE RIGHT TEAM

Your choice of partner can make or break a trip, so it will pay to be selective in choosing your team and ensuring your climbing styles and abilities are compatible.

National organisations like the Alpine Club are a great place to find budding expedition partners and was where the team came together for this summer’s expedition. But it’s important to make sure you have enough time before the expedition to get to know each other well.

#2 PICK SUITABLE OBJECTIVES

Stepping into bigger mountains, it can be easy to get carried away, so while it’s important to pick objectives that get you stoked, it’s important too that they remain within your ability. Speak to your team and be honest with each other about your abilities and also your expectations for the trip. Logistics, altitude and relationships will all make it tougher to climb as hard as you do back home. For me, Central Asia was a great place to start with opportunities to access new routes

PRE-EXPEDITION CHECKLIST

1. Flight logistics: Times, restrictions, how to get there, connecting flights and transfers to and from the airport. 2. Baggage allowance: Checked and double checked! 3. Visas: Confirmation in paper and digital versions. Are there any entry requirements to follow for airport transfers? 4. Insurance: Booked with sufficient cover for the worst case scenario. 5. Vaccines: Covid certificates printed/ downloaded on NHS app. Proof of any vaccinations you might require.

6. Last minute travel changes and restrictions:

Check your airline and the FCDO websites. 7. Accommodation: Get the first day and night booked up. 8. Currency: Sufficient local currency with backups in US Dollar / Euros / Sterling. 9. Photocopies: Passport, visas, insurance, fight details, team contact details, accommodation, day-by-day itinerary and spare passport photos. 10. Electronics: All charged, updated, synced and working as intended. Check the inReach device works before you need it. Turn it on, check the subscription and send a test message. Save all expedition contacts to an address book. 11. Download: Music / audiobooks / travel documents and area maps for offline use. 12. Kit packed: Check against your kit list. 13. Contingency plans: Make sure the whole team agrees on and are familiar with any back-up plans. 14. Local contacts: Put out a request for any local contacts that might enhance the trip. 15. Trip Details: Photocopies and online copies left accessible for reliable contact.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Trekking through the Pair Mountains on the way to

basecamp; Chris Lewis & Sarah Wysling looking towards a potential objective. Checking the radios work before the evening’s summit attempt; Expedition team member Alex Hale eyeing up the team’s first objective. Alex wears the Montane Phase XT jacket; The ancient fortress of Hisor, Tajikistan.

and first ascents on mountains starting as low as 3000m. For me, I always make sure accessibility by foot is an option when choosing my objectives.

#3 FIND A FIXER

A local contact is invaluable when planning any expedition. They can help to handle logistics such as travel and permits, and help you navigate the complicated and time-consuming bureaucracy that expeditions inevitably throw at you. Ask around among other climbers who have been to the country, and they’ll usually be able to recommend someone. We were introduced to our fixer in Tajikistan by a contact we met in Kyrgyzstan the year before.

#4 DOUBLE CHECK YOUR INSURANCE

Check your insurance carefully and ensure you’re covered for the worst case scenario. Keep your documents and funds accessible, even at advanced basecamp. Some in-country rescue services may demand payment before pick up.

A few providers to check out first would be the BMC, Austrian Alpine Club (UK) and Global Rescue. Remember though, policies differ massively depending on the type of climbing you are planning, height and the country you are visiting.

#5 GET A GRANT

Expeditions can be expensive, but thankfully there is help at hand. In the UK, there are three main grants to consider; the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund (MACCF) and Mount Everest Foundation (MEF). Each comes with their own criteria so ensure you meet the requirements before applying.

If you can write, and shoot content, brand sponsorship is another area worth considering. Have a think about what you can offer before contacting the brand in question and limit your sponsors to stop things getting complicated – meeting climbing commitments and sponsorship obligations can be demanding.

#6 LEARN THE LOCAL WEATHER

What time of year offers the greatest window of success? What is the prevailing wind direction? Are there any idiosyncratic weather patterns in the area? Getting a handle on the local weather will infinitely increase your chances of a successful expedition and help keep you safe.

Sometimes though, regardless of how much research and planning you put in, you’ll just need to accept bad weather and get the book out. Don’t beat yourself up if circumstances are out of your control. That’s what rest days are for.

#7 GET MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY FIT

Expeditions require as much mental as they do physical.

Physically, it’s of course important to build solid fitness and competency. Being fit and healthy will help fend off injury or illness while you’re away and the better, more confidently you climb, the more you’ll get out of the expedition. But it

“As the old adage goes, ‘take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints’.”

is important to shape your training to match the terrain and objectives you’ll be facing as much as possible.

Mentally, you’ll need resilience for tough days facing challenging weather conditions as well as the potential of extended periods stuck at basecamp. Envision the realities of what that will feel like and try to replicate similar situations as much as possible. Run through any problems you foresee arising and make note of solutions to them.

#8 SPREAD YOUR GEAR

Distribute gear evenly among your bags. Keep any vital items in your hand luggage, and wear your mountaineering boots during travel. If the airline loses a bag make sure you can still proceed as planned. The same thing applies if you use porters or pack animals.

#9 RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT

Consider your impact at basecamp. Think carefully about where you’ll be cooking, washing up and going to the toilet. If possible, keep all activities 50m away from water sources and avoid putting any contaminants like soap and food scraps into rivers and lakes. As the old adage goes, ‘take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints’.

#10 GEN UP ON CULTURE

Before you head off, inform yourself about the country’s laws and cultural customs. Even if you disagree with them it’s important to respect these whilst in-country. This can ease awkward misunderstandings and endear you to people you meet. Years from now you probably won’t remember much about the climbing, but you will remember the people, so remember to embrace these interactions.

Be prepared for the unexpected. It’s rare for an expedition to go to plan and stay on schedule. Be adaptable, and be aware that situations can and do change suddenly. Even the most unexpected things can catch you off guard, like waking up to find a herd of yaks eating your supplies. Nevertheless, you’ll certainly have fun and learn a lot in the process. As an old friend once told me: ‘Go for an adventure, any climbing is a bonus.’

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