Taste

Breaking bread

A taste of the much buzzed-about lunch counter at Martin Wine & Spirits

INSIDE: A meal to transport you to Kenya

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Lunch at Martin Wine & Spirits

BY BENJAMIN LEGER // PHOTOS BY COLLIN RICHIE

About 225’s food critic: Benjamin Leger previously served as managing editor for 225 and was the editor of its Taste section from 2012 to 2021, editing, writing and steering the direction of its food coverage in print and online. He is passionate about all things food and food journalism, and has written about the greater Baton Rouge area’s cuisine and culture for nearly two decades.

martinwine.com 6463 Moss Side Lane Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

THERE’S SOMETHING about lunch from a deli counter that just feels like a small gift to yourself. You know the meats are going to be high quality. You know the bread will be fresh and toasty. And you know you’ll walk away satisfied but not uncomfortably full. By now, we’re all familiar with Martin Wine & Spirits, the respected New Orleans wine store that’s had a location in Baton Rouge for nearly two decades. But after moving to a shiny new building across from Pennington Biomedical Research Center in 2021, the owners added a lunch counter serving sandwiches, soups and salads every day of the week. One late November day, I made a lunch date with a friend to catch up and try out what Martin’s had to offer. Even though it is still very much a bustling wine shop, there’s ample dining space here with more than a dozen tables inside and several more on the patio. As it was cold and windy that day, we opted for a table inside by the windows. My friend had his eye on the Reuben, which seems to be a popular item, and I opted for the Smoked Salmon BLT. I always appreciate places where salad isn’t an afterthought, and Martin’s has several interesting options. We decided to split the Martin Salad, and I added a cup of the soup of the day: Tomato Basil.

THE BASICS: Martin Wine & Spirits has been in the New Orleans area since the 1940s, and Baton Rouge since 2006. Its Perkins Palm location moved to new digs further down Perkins Road on Moss Side Lane in 2021, quietly adding a deli counter a few months later. Plenty of seats and a nice lunch menu have made this a popular spot for sandwiches and salads.

WHAT’S A MUST: The Reuben is a knockout, with flavorful and tender corned beef, sauerkraut an Russian dressing on traditional rye bread. The Smoked Salmon BLT features great-quality smoked salmon on toasted sourdough. We hear the Californian with oven-roasted turkey and havarti is also a favorite. The salads are plenty satisfying, too, with the Martin Salad offering a Cobb-like spread of bacon, chopped egg, radish and tomato on greens.

The salad and soup came out first, and we were both impressed by the salad’s size. Arranged a bit like a Cobb, there were crumbles of bacon, chopped egg, tomato, slices of radish and avocado on top of crisp romaine and spinach. It comes with blue cheese crumbles, but because I’m not a fan, our server thankfully substituted shredded Parmesan. The balsamic dressing we got on the side was kind of gloopy, but we were overall happy with the salad’s variety and freshness. It could easily be a full lunch for one person. The cup of Tomato Basil soup was a respectable size, creamy and warming, but otherwise a fairly standard version. Next came the sandwiches, which arrived quickly. The Reuben featured grilled corned beef, melted Swiss, sauerIssue Date: Jan 2023 Ad proof #1kraut and Russian dressing on rye • Please respond by e-mail or fax with your approval or minor revisions. bread. I told my friend I expected • AD WILL RUN AS IS unless approval or final revisions are received within 24 hours from receipt of this proof. A shorter timeframe will apply for tight deadlines. • Additional revisions must be requested and may be subject to production fees. his review once he took his first bite. Here’s how that went down: Carefully check this ad for: CORRECT ADDRESS • CORRECT PHONE NUMBER • ANY TYPOS This ad design © Melara Enterprises, LLC. 2023. All rights reserved. Phone 225-928-1700 • Fax 225-926-1329

Friend, taking a bite: *closes eyes and releases a satisfid sigh* Me, laughing: “Hang on. Let me write that down.” He passed it over to me for a few bites of my own. The rye was warm and flcked with those unique and pungent caraway seeds. The sauerkraut was tangy, and the cheese and dressing added mellow and sharp contrasts without taking over. They let the real star shine: the corned beef. It was tender, flvorful, salty, oh-so-juicy and layered in that sweet spot between piled high and just a few slices. I envied that he got to finish it. My Smoked Salmon BLT offered similarly ample slices of smoked salmon with crispy bacon, fresh spinach and tomato on a perfectly toasted sourdough. The menu also mentioned wasabi mayo, but I think my sandwich was slathered with traditional mayo on this day. We both agreed that while the

smoked salmon tasted great, the sandwich on a whole was missing something. Maybe it was the spice of wasabi flvor, or some onions or capers to add a tangy bite. For us, the Reuben was the winner of this lunch for its flavor and quality. And quality is something Baton Rouge has come to expect from Martin’s. The wine selection is always top notch, so it’s nice The deli counter is tucked inside the wine shop, with more than a dozen tables to see that matched at the deli plus more on the patio. There’s even a counter. It seems like the word selection of wines at the counter for those who want a glass with their lunch. is out, too, as most of the tables filed up during our lunch. An added bonus: There’s a selection of wines at the counter, so you can get a glass with your meal if you aren’t heading back to work after. My friend and I unanimously vowed to return. We’ll both probably be clamoring for that Reuben, too. While I’m not normally one to eat something so decadent at lunch and then sit at a desk for the rest of the afternoon, I make exceptions for treats like this.

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225 photographer Amy Shutt spent years in Africa taking groups on photo safaris with Lerai Safari Camp, capturing images like this one.

On the menu

• Githeri (Kenyan Bean and Corn Stew) • Curried Stewed Okra and Tomatoes • Ugali

Recipes by Tracey Koch

Stanley Mpoe is the official gardener at the Lerai Safari Camp in Kenya.

DINING IN

Comfort food, Kenyanstyle

Recipes and stories from African safaris

BY TRACEY KOCH

PHOTOS BY AMY SHUTT

WHEN BRAINSTORMING recipe ideas to kick off he new year, I looked to my good friend and partner in culinary creations, Amy Shutt. She is the longtime photographer for 225’s Dining In column and a multitalented artist who not only takes beautiful food photos, but is also highly regarded for her wildlife photography. For years, she spent time in Africa taking groups on photo safaris with Lerai Safari Camp in the Masai Mara National Reserve, a famous location in the east of Kenya. On her many adventures to Africa, Amy learned a lot about the culture, agriculture, food and cooking. Her most cherished memories are those when she was collaborating with the local people, capturing them cultivating their gardens and cooking local dishes. One of the people who stands out most in Amy’s mind is the official gardener at the Lerai Safari Camp: a young man named Stanley Mpoe. Stanley had worked in his family home garden from the time he was 8 years old, growing tomatoes, potatoes, cabbages, beans and various herbs. He grew enough vegetables and herbs to sell, earning him money to attend school and eventually leading him to become groundskeeper and official gardener at Lerai Safari Camp. As Amy was telling me all about the wonderful food she experienced during her trips (often sourced from Stanley’s yields), I thought they would make the perfect topic for this month’s recipes. You should be able to find all these ingredients at your local grocer. I hope you enjoy these easy, healthy— and delicious—Kenyan comfort foods.

Githeri

Githeri is a nourishing stew from the Kikuyu tribe in Kenya. It is made up primarily of beans, corn and tomatoes, along with onions and spices like hot curry powder and smoky paprika. Veggies, such as kale and potatoes, are often added to the Githeri as well. It is traditionally prepared with dried beans, but swapping for canned red kidney beans or pinto beans help to make this an easy, quick one-pot meal. This is a well-balanced, healthy dish and the perfect meal to make any night of the week.

Servings: 6

1 medium sweet potato 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup chopped onions 2 cloves minced garlic 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoon hot curry powder 2 teaspoons smoky paprika 1 (15 ounce) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes 1 (15 ounce) can red or pinto beans 1 cup frozen corn 1 cup chopped fresh spinach or kale ½ cup vegetable broth or water

1. Bring a 2-quart pot of water up to a boil. Peel and cut the sweet potato into chunks. Drop it into the boiling water and blanch for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain it and run it under cold water to stop it from cooking. Set aside. 2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy pot. Add in the onions and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until they are translucent. 3. Stir in the minced garlic, salt, curry powder and smoky paprika. Keep sauteing, stirring constantly for another 15 to 20 seconds. 4. Pour in the tomatoes, beans, blanched sweet potato and frozen corn. Stir to make sure nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pot and pour in the chopped greens and broth. Bring the Githeri up to a boil, and then reduce the heat to medium low.

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Curried Stewed Okra and Tomatoes

Okra is a great antioxidant and can help lower one’s blood sugar. It is utilized for cooking in several countries throughout Africa. It often acts as a thickener in stews and soups, not unlike how we use it to thicken our gumbo in south Louisiana. In African cooking, okra is typically stewed down along with onions, spices and tomatoes. In Nairobi, which is Kenya’s capital and also its largest city, you’ll find lots o variations, as the cooking becomes a bit more influenced by other countries and cultures.

Servings: 6

3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup chopped onion 2 cloves minced garlic 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon smoky paprika 2 tablespoons hot curry powder 1 (10 ounce) can diced tomatoes with green chilies 2 (12 ounce) bags frozen cut okra 2 (13 ounce) cans coconut milk

1. In a heavy deep skillet, heat the olive oil and add in the onion. Sauté 2 to 3 minutes until the onion is translucent. Add in the chopped garlic, salt, black pepper, paprika and curry powder. 2. Continue cooking for another few seconds and then add in the diced tomatoes with chilies. Stir to combine before adding in the okra. 3. Pour in the coconut milk and stir to combine. Bring the mixture up to a simmer and then cover tightly. 4. Keep the okra covered while it simmers for 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Serve the stew with Ugali or steamed rice.

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Ugali

Ugali is a dense porridge or grits dish made from white cornmeal. It is a staple in many countries in Africa. It’s served with stews, soups, meats, fish and vegetables. It is normally placed in the middle of the table for all to enjoy. Traditional Ugali is eaten with your hands, pulling off small individual pieces. You can also cut into wedges to serve.

Servings: 6

3 cups water ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 1½ cups coarse white cornmeal

1. In a heavy sauce pot, pour in the water, salt and butter.

2. Over medium-high heat, bring the water up to a boil.

3. Slowly sprinkle in the cornmeal, whisking until the mixture thickens and has no more lumps. 4. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Uncover the pot and stir with a wooden spoon, pressing the mixture against the sides of the pot while it cooks to help it form into a ball. It is done once it pulls away from the sides of the pot. This will take 7 to 8 minutes.

5. Allow to cool before transferring to a bowl or plate. Cut the Ugali into wedges. Serve alongside the Githeri and the Curried Okra and Tomatoes.

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