IN THE GARDEN

What a month February is! The number of holidays occurring in February alone is mind-numbing! According to www. holidayscalendar.com, each day this month should offer something for everyone. Look at February 1st alone: Work Naked Day (I’ll pass), National Freedom Day, National Serpent Day, National Get Up Day (convenient for those of us who have to be at the office), and National Girls & Women in Sports Day. February is also the month of Groundhog Day, Valentine’s Day, National Tater Tot Day, The Day the Music Died, National Carrot Cake Day, National Farmer’s Day (mark that one!), National Create a Vacuum Day, Chocolate Fondue Day, National Weatherperson’s Day, and that’s just up to the the 5th! February is also an important month in gardens and landscapes of the ArkLaMiss so let’s get outside and get at it!

First, you still have plenty of time this month to install trees and shrubs. Make sure they have all the space they need to grow and expand. Trees planted for shade need plenty of room and full sun. Consider natives like Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum), Willow Oak (Quercus phellos), Shumard Oak (Q. shummardii), or even Live Oak (Q. virginiana). If you plan on installing Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica and cultivars), make sure they situated in an area that receives full sun, has good drainage, and has plenty of room for canopy expansion. A popular trend has been for landscapers to put Crapes directly adjacent to the front entrances of new homes. Remember, a tree’s root system needs room to grow and expand over time just like the shoot system does. Planting trees directly adjacent to a building, or a driveway, or other barrier will impede root growth, and will possibly stress the tree over time. Stressed trees will be more susceptible to pests and pathogens and will not perform optimally in the landscape. Because trees are long term investments, taking time to adequately prepare the planting hole will pay dividends. For all trees, dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball and position the tree in the hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil’s surface. Back fill with native soil since that’s what the tree will be growing in for years to come. Fertilizing at planting isn’t necessary and avoid amending native soil with bagged potting medium. After watering the tree in, put down a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch, such as pine straw or aged wood chips, around the tree being careful to not pile mulch up around the trunk. In addition to helping conserve water and adding organic matter to the soil, a ring of mulch will protect the tree’s trunk from being damaged by lawn equipment.

Out in the vegetable garden, plant Irish potatoes this month! Potatoes are quite possibly the most perfect food. Naturally, gluten-free and a healthy source of carbohydrates (starch), Irish potatoes are among the most culinarily versatile of all vegetable crops. And, whether you like them baked, boiled, mashed, fried, or any other way, Irish potatoes are an easy and rewarding crop for home vegetable gardens. The LSU Ag Center recommends ‘Red La Soda,’ and ‘Red Pontiac’ for red-skinned varieties, and ‘Kennebec’ and ‘Yukon Gold’ for whiteskinned varieties. Heirloom potato varieties are also available to home gardeners from a variety of online sources.

Cut larger “seed” potatoes into smaller pieces, about 2 ounces each, with each piece containing one or two eyes. Some sources recommend curing the pieces, so the cut ends dry for a few days before planting. Some sources also recommend coating the cut edges with horticultural sulfur or other powdered fungicide to prevent rotting, but this is not necessary if your soil has good drainage. Plant Irish potatoes in rows that are spaced four to six feet apart in soil that is acidic and friable (easily dug). Each section of seed potato should be planted three to four inches deep at twelve-inch intervals. As the vines start to sprawl, hill soil up around them periodically to create more underground space for tuber formation and to completely cover tubers that have already been formed. Tubers are forming underground when above-ground stems flower. After 60 to 70 days, try sneaking a few “new” potatoes from under the plants. Don’t be greedy; every little new potato could grow into a large keeper later in the season. Dig the crop when plants start to yellow and die off. Start about one foot on either side of the plants and work inward toward the center of the row. Tubers injured during digging should be used immediately. Otherwise, gently brush away any loose soil and store them at 55°F in a humid area. Save the smaller tubers from the spring crop a fall crop planted in late summer when seed potatoes aren’t in stores.

February is also time to start seeds of tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers, and eggplants for the 2023 spring and summer season. Transplants of these nightshades should be ready to set out by early April. Locally purchased seeds are the way to go, especially if you’re a newbie gardener. Our local garden centers and hardware stores are excellent sources for quality seeds. If the designation “OP” or “Heirloom” appears on the seed package, you’ll be able to save seeds of that variety for next season and not have to worry about ordering every year.

Keep the following tips in mind when starting seeds.

• Seed trays with clear, plastic domes are widely available. However, salad containers from fast food restaurants and chicken containers from grocery store delis make perfect mini-greenhouses.

• A variety of media is available for seed starting. A generic potting soil that drains well should be fine, as will be a specially formulated seed starting mix. I’ve had the best luck with a 1:1 mixture of sifted compost and Premier Pro-Mix.

• If temperatures are chilly, place seed trays on a heating mat made specifically for horticultural use.

• Sow most seeds between one-eighth and one-fourth of an inch deep.

• Most seeds take between four and seven days to germinate. Some take longer; don’t get impatient.

• Keep the medium moist, but not saturated.

• Transplant to larger cells or pots only after the first pair of true leaves has emerged.

• After transplanting, gently brush over seedlings with your hand to promote sturdy stem growth.

• Transplant to the garden after risk of frost, late March or early April for our region.

Finally, be sure to join me on Tuesday and Thursday mornings on KWCL 96.7 FM for the radio companion to In the Garden!