WORLD W
e head east this month for a look at Traditional Schooner Chartering in the land of lobster bakes; plus, we make the case for escaping the West Coast's winter for a Caribbean Regatta Charter. The Wonders of Windjamming in Downeast Maine My memories of the summer of 2016 will remain with me for a long time. It was the year I sailed the Maine Coast, aboard a windjammer. My husband, Jay, is a licensed charter boat captain and had been wanting to experience these traditional vessels for many years. I joined him as cook, and together we spent the greater part of 16 weeks sailing among the 200 or more islands that lie nestled in approximately 600 square miles of cold, arctic water. Penobscot Bay was our playground, and our course was determined by the summer winds and the whim of our guests. Although there are many explanations for the term "windjammer," in Maine a windjammer is a traditional vessel, usually a schooner, which is normally captained by its owner. Collectively, Camden, Rockport and Rockland are home to the world's largest fleet of windjammers. Several of the vessels are National Historic Landmarks, and most are part of The Maine Windjammer Association. So what’s it like to sail on a windjammer? Interesting, invigorating and inspiring all come to mind. On a typical charter you have the opportunity to get involved in everything that encompasses life aboard these traditional ships. Guests are encouraged to help hoist and
drop up to 4,000 square feet of canvas sails, take turns at the helm, and pitch in to raise 400 lbs of anchor after a night on the hook. You can even help in the galley, where the cook prepares everything from soup and salad to roast dinners along with fresh-baked breads and desserts — all on a wood-fired stove. With all the canvas raised and trimmed, windjammers take on a relaxing rhythm and glide gracefully across the water as they ply their way to thoroughfares, islands or harbors. There is no set itinerary; the wind determines each day’s course, which may take you to a traditional Maine lobster bake on a deserted beach, a beautiful sunset over the Camden hills viewed from Bartlett Cove, Fourth of July fireworks in Castine, or perhaps the Wooden Boat School in Brooklin. Each location seems to be more beautiful than the last, and along the way you’re likely to see a variety of wildlife, including dolphins, seals, osprey, eagles or even puffins. Days are spent on deck working the sails, taking the helm, or reading a book between naps. Evenings begin
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY MAINE WINDJAMMERS ASSOCIATION
Below: The lovely schooner 'Timberwind' plies the waters of Maine with guests of all ages. Right: Every trip includes a lobster bake.
with spectacular sunsets and are often whiled away in song, as crew and passengers bring out their guitars, fiddles, banjos, or button box accordions. Some boats even carry a piano. In keeping with their heritage, windjammers are equipped with mini-
mal amenities. These vessels are rustic, cabin space is limited and sometimes a little damp, but the adventure and the beauty of traditional sailing in fresh, clean air far outweigh any missing creature comforts. Now 134 years old, Grace Bailey is the oldest windjammer in the Maine fleet. Originally built in Long Island, New York, in 1882, she spent several decades as a cargo ship carrying lumber and granite along the East Coast, as well as sailing to the West Indies in the fruit trade. In 1939 she was launched into the charter business in Camden. By contrast, the Mary Day was launched in 1962 and was the first windjammer built specifically for chartering. Despite her comparatively modern origins, this two-masted schooner maintains the minimalistic traditions of space, limited amenities and wood-stove cooking, aboard what is arguably the prettiest vessel in the fleet.
