world of chartering

ger participation highly encouraged. • (650) 930-0740; www.sfbaysail.com

Passage Nautical: Add some luxury to your fun! Experience the thrill of sailing the San Francisco Bay on one of our beautiful Beneteau sailing or power yachts or Lagoon catamarans. Whether you are an explorer at heart or are passionate about sailing - we create experiences that everyone can enjoy. Book your special event, bring your favorite food and beverages, and create lasting memories for years to come. Adventure awaits you on the San Francisco Bay. • Carries up to 12 guests • Departures available from Oakland, San Francisco or Pt. Richmond. • Available for private groups, special occasions and corporate events. • (510) 864-3000, (510) 236-2633; www.passagenautical.com/book-charter

Privateer: The first of three Coast Guard certified Islander Freeport 41 cutters in our fleet, Privateer has teak decks, finely varnished trim and many bronze fittings. Come see her mysterious stained glass. • Certified for 28 passengers. • Berthed at San Francisco's Pier 39. • Daily 90-minute and 2-hour Bay sails (drinks included) and available for private charters, birthday parties, corporate events, teambuilding and any occasion. Book an Angel Island BBQ or a multi-boat regatta with sister ships Santa Maria and Journey for up to 64 or 100 passengers. • (415) 378-4887; www.sailsf.com

Ruby: She started chartering in 1981 and proved her seaworthiness the next year by winning the Doublehanded Farallones Race. A veteran of cruises to Mexico, the Channel Islands and Delta, her skipper and crew have lots of party experience. • 28 passengers. • Berthed at The Ramp Café, SF. • Private parties and public sails. • (415) 272-0631; www.rubysailing.com

Santa Maria: The second of three Coast Guard certified Islander Freeport 41 ketches in our fleet was built for Wile E. Coyote & Road Runner cartoonist Chuck Jones. A complete refit was done on her in 2006, with a wall-to-wall teak interior, and an original drawing of the Road Runner still hangs in the boat. • Certified for 36 passengers. • Berthed at Pier 39. • Daily 90-minute and 2-hour Bay sails (drinks included) and available for private charters, birthday parties, corporate events, team building and any occasion. Book an Angel Island BBQ or a multi-boat regatta with sister ships Privateer and Journey for 28, 36, and up to 100 passengers. • (415) 378-4887; www.sailsf.com

Schooner Seaward: Owned by the nonprofit Call of the Sea. She sails during spring, summer and fall, with winter charters and individual berths available in Mexico. This lovely 82-ft staysail schooner’s primary function is Marine Environmental Education for students of all ages. We offer programs combining education, seamanship, marine environmental studies, and fun in the sun. • Carries up to 40 passengers on day trips; 12 for overnights. • Berthed at the Bay Model Pier in Sausalito. Free parking. • Available for youth educational day sails, scheduled (individually ticketed) public sails, overnights to Drakes Bay and the Farallones, private group charters, corporate events, and 'adventure sailing' in Mexico during the winter. • (415) 331-3214; www.callofthesea.org

'Tahoe Cruz'

Tahoe Cruz: This Santa Cruz 50 sails daily out of the Tahoe City Marina with Tahoe Sailing Charters, with captains Mike and Tyler, from May to October. Prevailing SW afternoon breezes make for ideal sailing conditions. • Certified for up to 30 passengers. • Specializes in affordable and scenic 2-hour cruises with complimentary refreshments. Also available for private parties, company charters and Emerald Bay luncheon sails. • Daily departures from Tahoe City Marina (home of Tahoe YC). • (530) 583-6200; www.TahoeSail.com

Tahoe Dreamer: Enjoy a private charter aboard this 36ft. power catamaran. Cruising daily on three-hour tours of Emerald Bay from Tahoe City. Complimentary beer, wine, snacks and appetizers served on all charters. • Certified for up to 12 passengers. • Specializes in private scenic two-hour afternoon and sunset cruises and threehour Emerald Bay charters. Available for private groups and company charters. • Daily departures from the Tahoe City Marina, North Lake Tahoe • (530) 583-6200; www.TahoeSail.com

Team O'Neill: O'Neill Yacht Charters' brand-new, custom-built Morrelli & Melvin 65' catamaran is the ideal venue to experience the beauty and thrill of Monterey Bay for novices and seasoned sailors alike. • Carries up to 75 passengers. • Berthed at Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor. • Public 1-hour, 1.5-hour and special event sails run April to October. Private charters available year-round. Afternoon and sunset sails, Local wine and beer tastings, and whale watching. • (831) 818-3645; www.oneillyachtcharters.com

USA 76: 84-ft America's Cup IACC yacht that raced in the 2003 Louis Vuitton Cup in NZ. America’s Cup champion Brad Webb brought her to the Bay to share the thrills of pro racing in a rare, participatory experience. • Carries up to 20 passengers. • Berthed at Pier 39 in San Francisco. • Available for 2.5-hour ticketed sails and custom private events. • (415) 990-9992, (619) 630-6383; www.acsailingsf.com

'Yukon Jack'

Yukon Jack: Check out the adrenal thrill of blasting across the Bay on this ultralight Santa Cruz 50. A former ocean racer, she once sailed from San Francisco to Tahiti in an impressive 19 days, and still holds the race record. • Carries up to 25 passengers (most comfortable with 20 or fewer). • Berthed at South Beach Harbor, San Francisco. • Corporate offsites and our most popular Angel Island BBQ, Private group charters, weddings, celebrations. • (415) 543-7333; www.rendezvouscharters.com/charter/sailing-yacht/ yukon-jack

Imagine having to move your boat from a foreign port — and they won't let you back in the country! Rob Novak of Shindig shows where there's a will, there's a way. Also this month: a report on an epic Zihua SailFest from — who better? — Epic; Slip Away's "nose job"; Shooting Star's Baja Bash (right through the southbound Ha-Ha fleet); and a locker full of Cruise Notes.

Shindig — Oyster 485 Nancy and Rob Novak It Takes a Village Sausalito (NOTE: This is a continuation of the article in the January 'Changes' titled 'Trouble in Paradise,' where Rob detailed Nancy's motor scooter accident and the medical care she received in French Polynesia.) At the end of July, we reSHINDIG turned to Sonoma County three months earlier than The last few months have planned to adbeen crazy for Rob and dress the mediNancy. Here's to smoother cal care Nancy sailing from now on! needed. After a month of continuous doctor appointments and insurance escalations, we felt she was on track for a good recovery at home. Once we felt her care situation was underway, we needed to figure out how I would return to Shindig and move her west. With cyclone season approaching and a Fiji haulout date reserved in October, it was time to get going. Fortunately, our two friends who were going to do the passage with us from Tahiti to Fiji prior to the accident were still available to go. I made new flight arrangements for everyone and then contacted our agent, Tahiti Crew, to arrange for our

"Trouble in Paradise" is when your boat is there, but you can't get back to it.

travel bond letter. (This letter allows boaters to enter French Polynesia on a oneway plane ticket without the need for a return ticket or a bond.)

A big surprise emerged once the paperwork was submitted to Tahiti Crew: I would not be allowed back in Tahiti! Because I had been in the country for 90 days, I would now be required to be out of the country for 90 days before returning.

This was a real problem. We couldn't wait 90 days to move the boat. That would put us in cyclone season and our boat insurance would not be valid for a passage to Fiji.

We considered keeping the boat in French Polynesia until the next season, but then we'd be up against the threeyear temporary import allowance.

I would only need a few days in-country to get the boat provisioned and out. We began looking for any way that an exception could be made to accommodate this. We asked Tahiti Crew to raise our unique situation with the local immigration group, Haut Commissaire, one more time, but the answer continued to be "no". If I did try to return to Tahiti I could be fined $10,000 and sent back immediately on a return plane to the US.

After numerous calls, emails and Hail Marys to the French Consulate in San Francisco, and a connection with the Consulate in Washington, DC, it became apparent that no exception was going excellent sailors, navigators and travelto be made. Our only option was to find ers. The year before, they had sailed west someone else to get Shindig out of Tahiti. from Tahiti and their boat, Alcyone, was

The choices were to hire a professional in New Zealand. captain or call in a big favor with a trust- The call went something like this; ed cruiser friend. "Hey Kenny, this is Rob. Shindig is

Starting with the latter: Who did I stranded in Tahiti. Would you drop evknow who was responsible, erything you are doing and fly to French trustworthy and experienced Poly for a rescue? I have arranged for two enough to sail a complicated people you don't know to help you." boat with two strangers until I Long pause . . . could meet up with the boat? "Yes. Let's do this. Where do you want ≠That was a real short list. the boat delivered?" There were only two people I had determined that the closest isI would consider, and one of land group to Tahiti where I could meet them was already on an extend- Shindig were the Cook Islands, 600 miles ed land-based trip in Alaska. away. There was one direct flight a week So I made the call to Kenny leaving from Los Angeles to Rarotonga, Linn. He and his wife, Betsy, Cook Islands. are cruising friends from Mex- In the two weeks leading up to the SHINDIG ico who puddle jumped to the South Pacific the same year we did, 2017. They are both trip, I prepared Kenny and crew Ralph Heron and Synthia Petroka with as much information as possible about the

Spread: 'Shindig' in Bora Bora. Above: in the 'cyclone pit' at Vuda Point, Fiji. Above right: Rob (lower left) with the mighty delivery crew, Ralph (in ballcap), Kenny and Synthia.

ALL PHOTOS SHINDIG

operation of the boat. Some of this was on the phone and much of it was written down in a working document that ended up being 12 pages long and covered everything from anchoring, electrical and plumbing systems to reefing idiosyncrasies. Captain Kenny, Ralph and Synthia met in person for the first time at the SFO International Terminal in early September. I was there as well, with more documentation, goodies for the boat babysitters in Tahiti, and numerous items for the upcoming cruise.

I participated remotely as they landed in Tahiti, made their way to the City Marina, and started to get Shindig ready for passage mode. I could watch some of their progress as credit card charges showed up in my email. I kept Nancy updated with play-by-play: "Hey, looks like they made it to Carrefour again for lastminute provisioning." Fast forward three days later, and Shindig was fueled up and left the Tahiti City Marina. As they were waiting for the optimal weather window, they had time to explore neighboring Moorea, Huahine and Bora Bora. As Captain Kenny was the only one familiar with the area, he also became the unofficial tour guide. All during this time, Rob and Kenny were in regular communication using the mobile phone and the Iridium GO!, which allowed texting or email with everyone aboard. Besides weather planning, they were able to solve several technical boat issues remotely. We joked that I was the fourth 'virtual' crewman. On September 12, Shindig officially checked out of French Polynesia in Bora Bora and began the 600-mile passage to Rarotonga.

As planned, I flew out to Rarotonga, and had two nights there in a little Airbnb near the wharf before they arrived. You can imagine how excited I was when Shindig sailed around the corner. It was a big sense of accomplishment and renewed camaraderie with the four of us together for the first time. We switched captains, moved Kenny into the Airbnb until his return flight back to the US, and spent a few days together touring the island.

In retrospect, I'm thankful for the friendships and unique bonds that are made from this cruising sailor lifestyle. Nancy and I had several cruising couples help us out the moment Nancy had her accident, including securing a place for Shindig on the docks and watching out for her while we were gone.

Ralph and Synthia remained onboard for several passages west. From Rarotonga, we sailed to Beveridge Reef, then to the island nation of Niue. Then it was on to the Vava'u group of Tonga and Fiji, where the boat is currently in a cyclone pit at Vuda Point.

Synthia and Ralph were fantastic crew. Being flexible and welcoming change is an absolute requirement to enjoy these adventures. And I know that I owe Kenny big time. I am expecting and would welcome his phone call any day to help him in a similar situation.

— Rob 2/6/20

KAREN KEY Epic — Schionning 1000 (36 ft) cat

Sheri and Brian Timpe

Zihua SailFest

Seattle

We had read about SailFest in Zihuatanejo before we even got to Mexico. It sounded like so much fun for such a good cause that when we finally headed south with the 2016 Baja Ha-Ha, SailFest was

Raft-ups featuring jam sessions by local and visiting musicians are just one of the attractions at Zijuatanejo SailFest.