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Cauliflower cheese

recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MIKE ENGLISH

SERVES 4 as a main 6 as a side PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

WHY

Whoever decided that boiling cauliflower for cauliflower cheese was a good idea should be charged with crimes against food. Boiled for just a minute too long and this robust veg turns into a soggy sponge that leaches water into the sauce, rendering it bland and watery. Here we’ve righted the wrongs, coating the cauliflower in cheese, then roasting it, which intensifies its flavour. We’ve also packed as much punch in the sauce as possible and given it all a moreishly crunchy topping. If the mere mention of cauliflower cheese conjures bad memories for you, then it’s time to try this version.

WHAT TO BUY

1 large cauliflower, cut into large florets 2 tbsp olive oil pinch of cayenne pepper 40g parmesan, finely grated For the sauce 50g butter 40g plain flour 600ml whole milk 1 tsp mustard powder or English mustard 1 tsp yeast extract (optional) 150g extra mature cheddar, most grated, some cubed grating of nutmeg For the topping 3 tbsp dried breadcrumbs (panko work well) 2 tbsp crispy onions

ROAST FOR MOST FLAVOUR Rather than boiling cauliflower and washing out its flavour, roast it to get the best taste – charring it slightly adds a lovely sweetness.

CRUNCH POINT

For adding texture to what is otherwise a soft dish, don’t forget the crumb topping which also lends a subtle note of parmesan.

TO GARNISH

A final sprinkling of crispy onion flakes adds texture and flavour. You can buy these or make your own by deep-frying finely sliced onion until crisp and golden then leaving to drain on kitchen paper.

CHOICE CHEESES As well as adding a crispness to the crumb, parmesan brings umami depth while cheddar has a sharper bite and unctuous gooeyness.

A TOUCH OF SPICE As well as the mustard, a pinch of cayenne adds a little piquancy. If you don’t have it, add a pinch of chilli powder or a dash of chilli sauce instead. Or, if you prefer a milder flavour, a grinding of black pepper.

SAUCE SECRETS We’ve livened up the sauce with mustard for heat and yeast extract for depth (although that’s optional depending on whether you like the flavour). Both work very well with cheese.

TEXTURES OF CHEDDAR Our trick with cheddar is to not grate it all but cube some of it, which creates delightful little pockets of melted cheese in the oven.

HOW TO MAKE IT

1 Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/gas 7. Tip the cauliflower into a shallow baking dish and toss with the oil, cayenne and a pinch of salt. Scatter with half the parmesan and roast for 20 mins until crisp and golden. Toss the florets, then sprinkle with more (but not all) of the parmesan and roast for 10 mins more until starting to char a little. Set aside. 2 While the cauliflower is roasting, make the sauce. Heat the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat until frothy. Scatter over and stir in the flour, cooking for 3 mins until you have a sandy paste, then add the milk, a splash at a time, keeping it at a simmer and whisking between each addition until smooth. Once all the milk has been added, continue to cook the sauce gently, stirring occasionally for 15 mins until thickened and silky, then stir through the mustard powder and yeast extract, if using. Remove from the heat and add the grated cheddar, a handful at a time, until you have a thick, cheesy sauce. At this point stir in the cubed cheese and season with nutmeg and salt, if needed. 3 Pour the sauce over the cauliflower in the baking dish to fully coat it. Mix the breadcrumbs with the remaining parmesan, then scatter this over the cauliflower cheese and bake for 20 mins. Sprinkle with the crispy onions and bake for a further 10 mins until bubbling and deep golden. Serve in warm and melting scoops from the baking dish.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 407 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 15g • carbs 22g • sugars 9g • fibre 3g • protein 17g • salt 1g