BBC Good Food ME - April 2022

Page 14

Tried

tasted

Our top dining experiences this month

INDEGO BY VINEET

The award-winning restaurant by renowned Michelin-starred and celebrity chef Vineet Bhatia has reopened its doors at the Grosvenor House Dubai, with an exquisite transformation that’s elegant and welcoming. Step into the opulent setting complete with chequerboard flooring, and pink paisley and emerald patterned chairs to complement rich, dark wooden countertops. Your eyes land on the cocktail bar as you enter the space, comprising stunning elements such as the signature feather chandelier, made up of over a hundred feathers. Hand-painted peacock motifs are prevalent throughout, adorning pillows and plate settings, making it a vibrant sight for those sitting indoors. On the picturesque terrace, diners are greeted with views overlooking the shimmering waters of Dubai Marina.

The highlights:

Chef Vineet Bhatia has curated a personal menu this time around, presenting nostalgic dishes with Indian roots, as well as a sensory journey that stems inspiration from the culinary influences he amassed over the years. The Mumbai Rhapsody concoction featuring a saffron-infused spirit and pan pasand (a popular Indian snack) caught my eye as it was being served at a table nearby. Sweet with full-bodied notes, the green blend with egg white, lemon and tonic, is served with a side of Gulkand (sweet rose petal preserve). Take a sip and nibble on the sweet preserve for a refreshing drink that livens your palate. The menu is split into categories rather than courses, and there’s no better dish to start with than the hot Truffle mushroom puchka with mushroom 12 BBC Good Food Middle East April 2022

momos, from the Chaat section. Each luscious bite-sized parcel is topped with tomato dust and truffle shavings. Proceed with the Chaat Trilogy of potatoes with fried hay and dahi balla ice cream, prepared at the table, allowing you to witness the dish folding together stunningly well. We loved the sensation of hot ingredients and cold savoury lentil ice cream, with sweet and tangy tamarind peeking through. The IndoChinese tofu bombs are a substantially filling bite too, accompanied by a moreish roasted pepper-peanut chutney that is worth scooping up with one of the extensive selection of naans – Masala or Blue cheese naan, anyone? Hitting pause on our first round of artfully prepared plates, we tried another interesting beverage, the Star of India (a smoked coconut-ghee concoction). Venture into a crustacean-filled Clay Oven serving of plump, juicy sundried tomato prawns accompanied by squid ink puchka, and expect heightened flavours with creamy crab in a frangible fried ball. The Sigdi butter chicken from the Grills is one to try, not only because it’s a stunning visual contrast, but the charcoal samosa with

butter chicken and bocconcini-chilli is gloriously lip-smacking. Chef Bhatia’s Stew Pot offerings showcase an inventive take on Indian classics with highlights such as a meaty Alleppey hammour in tangy coconut, tamarind and kokum sauce; creamy Butter chicken served with perfectly cooked grainy Saffron rice, and the showstopper, Lamb morel-guchi with korma and truffle ghee. We devoured this tender lamb and scooped the gravy with freshly made Black olive-rosemary and Garlic coriander naans. After an indulgent meal of savoury flavours, sweeten your palate with Chocolate samosas and mocha rabdi or the sensational Kulfilicious presenting Kulfi ice cream in flavours such as malai, rose, mango, lychee-ginger and Falooda – a divine treat that transports you to the streets of India.

The verdict:

A lively venue serving an elevated sharingstyle meal of beautifully presented dishes. Contact +9714 317 6000 or visit indegobyvineet.com.


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