1 I N G R E D I E N T – 3 WAY S
CHEERING ON CHANA
Food writer Sumayya Usmani shares recipes that celebrate versatile chana daal – split baby chickpeas photographs LOUISE HAGGER
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hana daal (also known as chana lentil, Bengal gram or split peas) are baby black chickpeas, split and polished. In Urdu and Hindi, the word ‘daal’ means lentil, and ‘chana’ means chickpea. It’s chana lentil that, when ground, forms gram flour (chickpea flour or besan in Urdu and Hindi). In texture, chana daal is a more substantial pulse, and makes for a hearty meal. Its larger shape means it takes a while to cook. It’s good to rinse it a few times to get rid of any debris, and soak for at least 30 minutes before cooking. Chana daal is sweet, nutty and nutritious, with a corn-like flavour. It’s used in soups, stews, desserts, salads and is very digestible when soaked and washed. Because of its size, it tends to be slow-cooked, unlike other lentils. Chana daal is sometimes better when left to ferment a little overnight, as it cooks quicker and adopts a slightly mellower flavour. Many cooks choose to soften and break it down in a pressure cooker, but I prefer not to cook it this way because it alters its nutty taste. Cooking it slow or eating it raw (as in the recipes I’ve shared here) are the best ways to enjoy its earthy and nutty flavour. Chana daal can also be dry-roasted and ground to add thickness and flavour. This is one lentil that is eaten all over the Indian sub-continent, in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
Sumayya Usmani is an author and educator with a focus on food writing, and intuitive cooking. Born and raised in Pakistan, her recipes highlight her heritage. She is the author of Summers Under the Tamarind Tree and Mountain Berries and Dessert Spices. Sumayya’s next book, a food memoir, will be published next year. @sumayyausmani
42 BBC Good Food Middle East April 2022
