Discover the Blue Hill Peninsula

DISCOVER THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA

TAKE A TOWN-BY-TOWN ROAD TRIP

DISCOVER WHAT NOT TO MISS AND WHERE TO FIND DELICIOUS GRUB ALL OVER THE PENINSULA

BY LAND OR BY SEA

TAKE A TOUR OF CASTINE WITH SOME LOCAL FLAVOR THANKS TO GENEROUS VOLUNTEERS

VISIT KNEISEL HALL

CHAMBER MUSIC COMES TO LIFE IN THE WOODS OF BLUE HILL

Juno the dog dashes across a ledge while exploring Harriman Point Preserve in Brooklin.

PHOTO BY AISLINN SARNACKI/BDN FILE

EXPLORE THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA

A TOWN-BY-TOWN TOUR OF THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA • BY ANNE GABBIANELLI

THE BLUE HILL Peninsula is a land of nooks and crannies between Maine’s midcoast and Down East regions, where pure beauty juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. Aside from soaking in the crisp salt air and countless “Oohs” and “Ahhs” of coastal snap shots around every corner, the region has much to offer.

SURRY

The wonders of Maine’s coast include looping roads and inconsistent internet access, so a map might be handy. Just seven miles from Ellsworth is Surry, a town that surrounds Patten Bay and is home to the famous Pugnuts Ice Cream Shop — with more flavors of ice cream, gelato, and sorbet than you can imagine.

BLUE HILL

Hop along Route 172 into Blue Hill and you are treated to a childhood memory. Well known author E.B. White, a long-time resident with a farm on Blue Hill Bay, set his beloved children’s book “Charlotte’s Web” at the site of the historic Blue Hill Fair.

The fair features a livestock exhibit like the one described in the 1952 book and sanctioned by White’s family. Now in its third year, the display is a lasting legacy.

“The real life exhibit with Wilbur the pig and other characters is the only such exhibit of one of the most popular books of all time,” said Erik Fitch, general manager of the fair.

The Blue Hill Fair was founded in 1891 as an agricultural fair and has grown to be a venue for entertainment, exhibits, and attractions. The fair runs from Aug. 29 through Sept. 2, and this year there’s an added feature.

“There will be a Charlotte’s Web live play courtesy of The Grand,” Fitch said. “We are the only fair in the state of Maine that has ever run a live theatrical performance on a section of midway.”

Continuing down Route 175, you’ll cross the Blue Hill Falls Bridge. While parking is sparse, you’ll want to aim

for low tide as Blue Hill Falls is known for its rare reversing falls created by the tide funneling into the channel. The narrow bridge crosses this tidal basin and it’s fascinating to watch.

BROOKLIN

Further south you’ll find Brooklin’s Harriman Cove. A short hike will bring you to a serene beach, and across the way is Long Island with Mount Desert Island for the backdrop. More breathtaking sights await as you travel over Eggemoggin Reach via the iconic Deer Isle Bridge erected in 1939.

DEER ISLE AND STONINGTON

The first stop is Little Deer Isle, then onto the Stonington Causeway that takes you to Deer Isle and Stonington. Certainly no trip to Deer Isle is complete until you have explored Nervous Nellie’s Jams & Jellies. Eclectic is an understatement when it comes to Peter Beerits’ sculptures strategically embedded in some five acres of sparsely wooded terrain. The fantastical woods offers an array of buildings and artworks known as Nellieville, with corresponding literature and stories of Beerits’ travels from the west to the east coast.

“Peter’s head is as full of ideas as the property is full of raw materials waiting to be repurposed,” said Peter’s wife Anne Beerits. “Peter works more or less continuously on curating and revising existing exhibits, making sculptures, making new exhibits, and acquiring new ‘junk.’” Beerits also offers talks on Friday afternoons. Sweetening the visit is an array of jellies and jams made on the premises, along with other Maine-made prod-

A view of Stonington from the water.

PHOTO COURTESY OF STEVE BOWLER

Visit Wilbur and other “Charlotte’s Web” characters at the Blue Hill Fair. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE BLUE HILL FAIR

ucts, like cutting boards made at the Maine State Prison.

“I try to stock items that are a bit off the beaten path taken by most gift shops,” Anne Beerits said.

While you’re in the area, don’t forget to get a glimpse of the working waterfront of Stonington and the lobster co-op, where you can make a fresh purchase literally from the ocean’s edge.

SEDGWICK

Returning to the mainland once again over the historic suspension bridge, you travel up Caterpillar Hill in Sedgwick offering postcard views of Maine’s larger populated islands of Vinalhaven, North Haven, Isle Au Haut, and Islesboro.

BROOKSVILLE

The community of Brooksville is next, home of the Good Life Center. This is the homestead of Helen and Scott Nearing, the prominent back-to-the-land proponents who wrote “The Good Life.” The learning center offers an array of speakers, community events, and workshops on ways to live simply and well.

Next, take the Cape Rosier Road to the unique Holbrook Island Sanctuary State Park. The park is a network of old roads, paths, and animal trails that allow you to explore the shoreline, marshes, ponds, and forests. It’s also a prime place for coastal bird-watching, spread out over 1,200 acres.

PENOBSCOT

As you return toward Penobscot, cut over to Bagaduce Lunch on Route 175 for take-out and an ice cream while watching the falls.

CASTINE

Head north, around the head of Northern Bay and loop down into Castine. You’ll be treated to an entire downtown that is on the National Register of Historic Places. Castine was once named by Yankee magazine as one of the 10 Prettiest Coastal Towns in Maine, with a Main Street that slopes to the sea.

Maine Maritime Academy’s (MMA) training ship, The State of Maine, has been anchored in Castine Harbor since 1997. Recently the ship departed on a training voyage around the northern Atlantic Ocean with 202 students and 45 staff and crew on board. In the future, Castine’s shoreline will host a new pier where MMA’s new training vessel will dock.

Castine is also home to something very rare. Wilson Museum boasts million-year-old fossils, as well as the tools of early humans.

FOR MORE INFO AND EVENTS, VISIT THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE WEBSITE AT BLUEHILLPENINSULA.ORG.

WHERE TO EAT ON THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA

STORY & PHOTOS BY SARAH WALKER CARON

ON A WARM, overcast Saturday morning, my kids and I wound our way along the Blue Hill Peninsula, exploring this wooded coastal land. Known for its lighthouses, timeless villages, and working waterfront, the collection of towns and islands are set apart from the summer rush of other Maine coastal areas. And it’s here that writers like E.B. White have found inspiration. We liked it so much, we returned the following weekend.

Despite its secluded feel, the Blue Hill Peninsula is home to so many excellent options for enjoying a meal or a snack.

TINDER HEARTH

1452 COASTAL RD IN BROOKSVILLE

One of my personal favorites is a former farmhouse/barn turned bakery and restaurant known for its feats of yeast. During the summer, Tinder Hearth serves pastries like croissants and scones along with breakfast sandwiches and coffee drinks on Wednesday and Saturday mornings in the restored barn when the bakery is open between 9 a.m. and 12 p.m. If you happen to be there in the off-season, the brunch menu is a bit more extensive. There’s also pizza in the evenings, a sought-after event. This summer, Tinder Hearth plans to open four nights a week for pizza beginning June 11. Reservations are required and open on Monday each week. Guests for pizza sit at the tables scattered in the yard.

EL EL FRIJOLES

41 CATERPILLAR RD IN SARGENTVILLE

In nearby Sargentville, El El Frijoles is cooking up flavorful tacos, burritos, and more from a spot that looks more barn than restaurant. But once you step inside, you see your mistake.

There’s a flurry of activity behind the counter as orders are filled and slipped outside to a waiting table for hungry patrons to retrieve. The menu has a range of options for fillings from classics like carne asada and roasted vegetables to spicy lobster. On the day of our visit, there was also a crab quesadilla special that sounded divine. You’ll be eating outside at this eatery at tables set up across the yard, which can accommodate a variety of party sizes. It’s a peaceful setting.

STRONG’S

PUBLIC HOUSE & PATIO

7 ROPE FERRY RD IN SEDGWICK

Interested in the brewery scene? The Blue Hill Peninsula has that too. For more than 10 years, Strong Brewing Company has been brewing beers on the Blue Hill Peninsula. Now the brewery, located just a few miles from the roundabout in Blue Hill, is expanding as Strong’s Public House & Patio, serving up big slices of pizza, sandwiches, and more to enjoy with the beers. With seating outside and in a pavilion, the vibe is laid back and casual. This is a place to enjoy a beer or two with friends while eating. And in case you are wondering: one big, bready slice of Pizza a Taglio is pretty filling.

ARAGOSTA

AT GOOSE COVE

300 GOOSE COVE RD IN DEER ISLE

If you are looking for fine dining, the Blue Hill Peninsula has several notable options. Aragosta at Goose Cove is an oceanfront restaurant serving a tasting menu during two seatings on Monday through Friday during the summer and an a la carte menu on Sundays. Yes, they are closed on Saturday. The menu changes frequently, reflecting the seasonal ingredients available and the flavors of the coastal region. The tasting menu starts at $75 per person and reservations are required.

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VOLUNTEERS

BRING LOCAL FLAVOR TO CASTINE TOURISM

ENJOY A UNIQUE TOUR OF CASTINE • BY CASEY BERNARD

EUROPEAN EXPLORERS first arrived in Castine in the 1500s, quickly making it one of the most important ports on the East Coast. And visits by sea continue today. The location, where the Bagaduce River meets Penobscot Bay, is ideal for sailors. The approach is deep and Smith Cove provides protective cover from foul weather. Yacht clubs and independent sailors add Castine to their summer cruise itineraries while luxury yachts dock in town to refuel.

Once visitors tie up and step off their boats, however, they are met with a challenge. The town of Castine meets the water at the bottom of a steep hill. While there are a few shops and a lunch stand open at the base of the hill, visitors on foot have to embark on a half mile trek up Main Street to reach the top of the town, and walk even further around the peninsula to visit the Dyce Head Lighthouse and other significant historic sites.

Recognizing the challenge, in 2016 three local women banded together to form the Castine Touring Company. The volunteer organization, with the help of donations, purchased a six-seat electric cart to provide tours around the town. The red cart, nicknamed Scarlett, waits at the dock each day with a volunteer tour guide available to take visitors around the community.

The guides provide colorful commentary along the route, a mixture of historical record, legends, and entertaining embellishments. Each tour is as unique as the guide behind the wheel. The tour stops at the lighthouse and other sites such as Fort George, the site of action from the American Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. At the Castine Historical Society, riders can step inside to see the current exhibits as well as the impressive Castine Bicentennial Quilt. Created by 60 members of the community in 1996, the quilt spreads 24 feet wide and depicts the history of Castine from the time of the Abenaki to the Revolutionary War, from the 19th century years of prosperity and shipbuilding and trade to the 21st century.

Beverly Bishop, one of the founders of the Castine Touring Company, said the tours have an impact on the town that extends beyond the tour.

“Visitors get to see so much more of the town than they otherwise would have and many have come back years later to stay for several days,” Bishop said. “Without the tour many visitors might not know how much there is to come back for.”

TOUR CASTINE BY BOAT

BY CASEY BERNARD

For the full Castine experience, after touring the historic forts and lighthouse on land with Scarlett, visitors have two opportunities to tour Castine by sea.

Castine Cruises offers relaxing narrated tours of Castine Harbor aboard the bright red Lil’ Toot. Marking its 16th season with Castine Cruises this year, Lil’ Toot was built in 1983 and named for the 1939 children’s picture book written and illustrated by Hardie Gramatky.

Previously, Lil’ Toot worked in Manhattan, Sarasota, Bucksport, and Castine as a for-hire passenger vessel. Now daily public tours leave from the Castine Town Dock. Lil’ Toot accommodates up to 16 passengers and can also be booked for private tours. Excursion tours beyond Castine Harbor to Holbrook Island are also available. To book and learn more, visit CastineCruises.com.

For the adventure seekers looking for a more active tour on the water, Castine Kayak Adventures offers a variety of tour packages from halfday to overnight trips. Led by certified Maine Guides, beginner and experienced kayakers can get an up-close tour of Castine Harbor in individual or double-seater vessels. Kayakers come from all over the world to book a night-time tour to see the bioluminescent waters unique to Castine’s harbor. When the sun goes down, tiny plankton and other creatures in the water create a glittering sparkle in the water that is difficult

VOLUNEERS,

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If the tour happens on a Wednesday or Sunday, visitors may stop at the Wilson Museum for demo days. The antiquities museum founded in 1921 showcases the collection of Dr. John Howard Wilson, and, on demo days, features a local blacksmith and woodturner who create their crafts using traditional methods.

In a place like Castine, Scarlett also works as a bit of a small town Uber. Sailors out for a day cruise have been known to pack their golf clubs and hire Scarlett to drive them to the top of the hill for a round at the Castine Golf Club.

The Castine Touring Company operates as a non-profit organization. Proceeds raised from the tours are donated back to the town’s arts and cultural institutions that make Castine worth visiting. In 2023, more than $3,000 was distributed to local nonprofit organizations. Members of the group are constantly looking for ways to enhance the Castine experience for visitors. In 2024, two oversized porch swings handmade by two industrious volunteers will be installed at the town beach and Fort George.

This year, Castine Touring is also adding to the fleet with a second vehicle nicknamed Sally, which is available by reservation from the group’s website at CastineTouringCompany.org.

TOUR BY BOAT,

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to photograph and must be seen by the naked eye to truly experience the wonder of it. Visit CastineKayak.com for more details on kayak tour options.

WHERE TO EAT, CONTINUED FROM PAGE 3

ARBORVINE

33 TENNEY HILL RD IN BLUE HILL

Head into Blue Hill for Arborvine, a fine dining restaurant serving an a la carte menu with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. The frequently changing menu features local oysters, creative salads, and interesting entrees like Roasted Halibut with Lemon Butter Crumb served with black garlic polenta, sauteed leeks, saffron, and tomato beurre blanc.

STONINGTON ICE CREAM COMPANY

66 MAIN ST IN STONINGTON

Looking for a sweet treat? Head to the coast where you can enjoy ice cream while musing about all the writers this area of Maine has inspired. Stonington Ice Cream Company is open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, serving 16 flavors of ice cream (as well as a small selection of food including lobster rolls). Pick up a cone from the window and stroll along the harbor. It’s a beautiful view.

PUGNUTS ICE CREAM SHOP

1276 SURRY RD IN SURRY

Try Pugnuts Ice Cream Shop, which serves a variety of flavors of gelato, ice cream, and sorbet, and often comes up as a fan favorite. From coffee crunch to lavender honey, Maine blueberry to oak with bourbon, you’ll find both classics and the unexpected here.

BRINGING CLASSICAL CHAMBER MUSIC TO LIFE

DISCOVER

AMAZING

TALENT AT KNEISEL HALL CHAMBER MUSIC SCHOOL • BY CRYSTAL SANDS

DATING BACK to 1902, the Kneisel Hall Chamber Music School and Festival has been bringing chamber music to life through education and concerts in the Blue Hill area and beyond for well over a century. Nestled in the woods of Blue Hill, the Kneisel Hall campus hosts some of the best young musicians in the country every summer. These musicians study chamber music in the intimate setting of Blue Hill, teach local Maine students their craft, and share their brilliant music locally and throughout the state as a part of the Kneisel Hall summer concert series.

Kneisel Hall was originally founded in 1901 by violinist Franz Kneisel, the former concertmaster of the Boston Symphony. According to Kneisel Hall Executive Director Meredith Amado, Franz Kneisel would bring his students to study with him in Maine during the summer months, and as the number of students began to grow, Kneisel Hall moved from Franz Kniesel’s summer cottage on Parker Point Road to a second Kneisel Hall that was built on the slope of Blue Hill Mountain. The school struggled during the Great Depression, but in the 1950s, the program was revitalized thanks to Kneisel’s daughter, Marianne Kneisel, and her husband, Felix Kahn.

“The long tradition of classical chamber music continues today,” Amado said. “This year marks Kneisel Hall’s 122nd year.”

This summer, Kneisel Hall will host two chamber music programs. The Young Artist Program brings students from the best music schools and conservatories to Blue Hill. Students from renowned music schools like Juilliard will study classical chamber music with the high-caliber faculty Kneisel Hall offers.

These young artists will also serve as mentors in Kneisel Hall’s second chamber music — the Program for Maine Students. Each summer, classical students ages 9 to 19 from across Maine get a

chance to study with some of the best young talents in the country and the world. The opportunity for young Maine musicians to get to study with musicians of such high caliber is a rare treat.

Together, these programs highlight the reason Kneisel Hall has been called “the cradle of chamber music teaching in America.”

Of course, the public-facing portion of Kneisel Hall’s summer programs — the concerts — are an important opportunity for everyone in the area, not just musicians, to enjoy classical music.

“The 2024 festival includes over 50 public performances over nine weeks,” Amado said. “Highlights include our riveting Young Artists’ performances on July 13, 15, and 16 and August 7, 8, and 10. In addition to weekly Friday and Sunday performances by Kneisel Hall's illustrious faculty, we have seven individuals and two string quartets joining as guest artists this summer.”

Kneisel Hall’s 2024 season is certainly packed with opportunities for audiences to experience beautiful classical music and more.

“In the span of 9 weeks, we will offer more than 50 opportunities to enjoy chamber music on our campus and at local venues,” Amado said.

Highlights in chamber music include everything from free concerts given by musicians in the Maine students program to concerts from two-time Grammy-nominated violinist Jesse Mills, as well as concerts given by Kneisel Hall’s prestigious faculty.

In addition to concerts at Kneisel Hall in Blue Hill, this summer will feature concerts at the Blue Hill Public Library, and in Bucksport, Southwest Harbor, and Brooklin. Summer 2024 will also feature special performances of Gilbert and Sullivan’s comedic opera, “H.M.S. Pinafore,” by The Blue Hill Troupe.

For more information and tickets to these performances, visit kneisel. org/2024-festival.

VISIT THE PENOBSCOT HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM

BY PATRICIA ESTABROOK

“RETURN WITH US NOW TO THOSE THRILLING DAYS OF YESTERYEAR…”

The Lone Ranger’s opening line is equally appropriate for a visit to the Penobscot Historical Society Museum. Instead of a masked man riding through the desert, you’ll find artifacts of the hard-working men and women of the Blue Hill Peninsula. Spend an hour or two browsing through the general store, the one-room schoolhouse, and the farmhouse and barn. Imagine the joys and sorrows of the stalwart people who once lived in Penobscot and left their mark on their descendants and their community.

While some peninsula communities like Castine and Blue Hill relied on shipbuilding and seafaring, the people of Penobscot did not have a deep-water port. They relied on farming, cottage industry, and small businesses to provide for their families. The general store was the hub of the community, providing food, clothing, tools, penny candy, and a place to gather and share news.

In 2022, students from the I Know ME program created a film about schoolyard bullying in the 1850s using the buildings of Penobscot Historical Society Museum. To see the film go to the Game Loft YouTube channel and click on “The More Things Change.”

COURTESY OF RAY ESTABROOK

Today, you can sit on the front porch of the museum’s general store and listen to the voices of the past or talk with the friendly docents who will explain the use of the mysterious goods that were commonplace to our ancestors. Or sit at a desk in the one-room schoolhouse and imagine lessons recited by scholars in all grades.

The museum was founded in 1977 with donated buildings. The farmhouse came from Surry, but the other buildings came from the town of Penobscot. Artifacts were donated to the museum from families around the Blue Hill Peninsula.

The museum is small but informative, and some of the exhibits can be handled.

“This museum helps young people understand a previous way of life before cars and computers,” said board member Sylvia Tapley.

For the full flavor of Penobscot, attend Penobscot Days on Saturday, July 13, featuring a parade and activities, including an open house at the museum. For the rest of the summer, the museum is open on Sundays from 1-4 p.m. during July and August. Admission is free but donations are accepted. For more information, call (207) 460-9380.

PHOTO

SPEND A DAY TOURING CASTINE

THREE TOUR COMPANIES OFFER OPPORTUNITIES FOR ADVENTURE

A VISIT TO CASTINE promises the quintessential coastal Maine experience without the crowds. With the added bonus of a rich history that locals are proud to share, history buffs, nature lovers and those seeking a place to unwind will find much to enjoy while exploring Castine. With three active tour companies offering different types of tours, travelers can spend a day learning about all that Castine has to offer with this ideal itinerary.

9 A.M. TAKE A LAND TOUR WITH CASTINE TOURING COMPANY

The day begins at the town dock where many visitors have arrived over the centuries. Meet one of Castine Touring Company’s friendly volunteer drivers for a ride around the peninsula on Scarlett, a six-passenger electric vehicle. You’ll see all the town has to offer and decide where you want to spend more time later. Visit Castine’s Dyce Head Lighthouse, Revolutionary War forts, Federalist style ship captain’s homes dating from the 18th century and much more. Stop at the Castine Historical Society and Wilson Museum and learn about Castine’s heyday.

Tours at the dock are available on a drop-in basis. Reserved tours are available at CastineTouringCompany.org

10:30 A.M. RETURN TO THE TOWN DOCK

Explore the local shops and art galleries on foot and make a plan for lunch.

11:00* A.M. TAKE A CRUISE ON LIL’ TOOT WITH CASTINE CRUISES

Bring a picnic lunch or snacks and climb aboard Lil’ Toot, named for the little red tugboat in the famous childrens’ book, for a cruise around Castine Harbor. While exploring Smith Cove and cruising up the Bagaduce you’ll enjoy a narrated tour of the harbor which was the site of the Penobscot Expedition naval battle during the Revolutionary War. Watch for eagles, osprey and harbor seals and more local wildlife or just sit back and enjoy the views.

*4 p.m. cruises also available. Guests can choose from 45 minute or 1.5 hour trips and private tours are available. Visit castinecruises.com for more details.

1:30 P.M. REST AND ENJOY THE AFTERNOON

Spend the afternoon relaxing in the town common, exploring Witherle Woods or Backshore Beach. Reserve dinner at the Pentagöet Inn or Danny Murphy’s Pub for more casual fare.

8 P.M. PADDLE THROUGH BIOLUMINESCENT WATERS WITH CASTINE KAYAK ADVENTURES

After dinner as the sun begins to go down, head back to the dock to gear up for a nighttime kayak tour. Castine’s waters are one of the few places in the world that are home to bioluminescent organisms that can only be seen at night. Under the direction of certified Maine guides, you will paddle around the harbor and enjoy the islands in a different way under a canopy of stars. Dip your kayak paddle into the water and stir up the seaweed to see the water sparkle.

Morning, afternoon and all-day tours are also available. For information on more tour options, visit Castinekayak.com.