WOODS & WATERS

Feeling FULL

FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY, ACADIA HAS ATTRACTED VISITORS TO MAINE

STORY & PHOTOS BY BOB DUCHESNE

ACADIA WAS THE FIRST NATIONAL PARK in the eastern United States, established over a century ago. It’s still the only national park in the northeast, within a day’s drive of 50 million people. In a way, it’s surprising that it took so long for Acadia National Park to feel congested. America’s national parks are in perennial danger of being loved to death, and Maine’s own park is no exception. Acadia sets new visitation records almost every year, topping 4 million people in 2021. Inevitably, management procedures have changed over the years to accommodate increased use. Long-time Mainers reminisce about a bygone era, when a visit to Sand Beach and Thunder Hole was free. But entrance fees have now been around for three decades. Last summer, the park’s exploding popularity on Mount Desert Island finally forced the adoption of a reservation system to visit the top of Cadillac Mountain, and this year marks the first time entry fees are also required in winter. Most of the fee revenue stays with the park, and there’s no question the funding is necessary to maintain the miles of roads and trails in a safe, accessible condition for so many users. AMERICA’S Change has come more slowly to the Schoodic Peninsula, Acadia’s mainland section of the park in Winter Harbor, but long-time Mainers NATIONAL PARKS ARE might notice that subtle differences are starting to appear. Historically, the Schoodic Peninsula received only about 10 percent of the visitation IN PERENNIAL DANGER that floods into Acadia each summer. But that is also changing. The National Park Service manages the Schoodic Peninsula for

OF BEING LOVED TO lighter use than it does the more heavily-visited Mount Desert Island

DEATH, AND MAINE’S portion, but the biggest challenge is the same: traffic management. For the first time last summer, signs popped up along the loop road,

OWN PARK IS NO reminding motorists that parking in the right lane and outside of designated areas is not allowed. Metal stakes were added in EXCEPTION.

particularly vulnerable areas, protecting the turf from vehicle damage.

About half of the Park Loop Road on Mount Desert Island is one-way. Shortterm parking in the right lane of the twolane road is permitted in some places along the Bar Harbor side of the park. It’s not permitted anywhere on the Winter Harbor side. New signs went up last summer, reminding motorists to park only in designated spots. Once upon a time, parking restrictions might have increased the traffic density, but visitors are finding the Island Explorer bus service to be truly convenient. There is abundant parking at the Schoodic Woods Campground and Ranger Station, where visitors can board the bus for all the popular spots at Schoodic Point. RVs and trailers are not allowed past Schoodic Woods anyway, so it’s the best option for many visitors.

Alternatively, maybe bicycles are the best option.

When the Schoodic Woods Campground was built, a system of off-road trails was added to the park, spanning 8.3 miles. The wide, gravel-packed paths are easy to walk and ideal to pedal.

Schoodic Woods is the only campground in Acadia with full electrical hookups. There is ample space between sites. Small wonder that the campground is almost always full. There are no first-come, first-served sites. Getting a reservation requires persistence, but there is a method to it. Reservations become available two months in advance on a rolling basis. The best hope of getting a preferred site is to book online just as soon as the desired dates become available. The park website makes it easy to get information and connect to the online reservation system.

Despite the subtle changes now apparent in summer, not much has changed at Schoodic in winter. It’s still the place local Mainers go to watch the surf crash in turbulent weather. Visitors are expected to have park passes — something that would have been problematic in previous years, since there is no park staff present in winter to sell them. Nowadays, there are many pass options available for purchase online. Many are discounted. Some are free, including passes for active military personnel, people with disabilities, citizens doing volunteer service for federal agencies, and a special free program for fourth graders. As park usage has increased nationwide, pre-purchase of passes has become routine.

For those who hate change, one condition remains an immutable constant: there is just one winter bathroom on each side of the park. On MDI, heated flush toilets are located at the Fabbri picnic area, just beyond Otter Cliff on the Park Loop Road. At Schoodic Point, there’s a bathroom at the entrance to the Schoodic Institute. You’re welcome.

BOB DUCHESNE is a local radio personality, Maine guide, and columnist. He lives on Pushaw Lake with his wife, Sandi.