GET TWISTED

TWISTED PRETZELS HAVE THEIR MOMENT

BY JOANNA O’LEARY

Sometimes, the best way to unwind is to tuck into a twisted carbohydrate (irony noted).

I’m talking about soft pretzels, at one time relegated

2 FEET BREWING CO.

For a supple, hearty, tortuous carbohydrate, try 2 Feet Brewing Co.’s (80 Columbia St., Bangor) (at least in America) to movie theater concessions and ballpark fare. Adding insult to injury, those that were served in both those venues were often the blandest, most insipid versions of the venerable soft pretzel: lazily tangled tubes of dough with a stingy dusting of salt.

Fortunately, the past decade has seen not the further decline of the soft pretzel but rather its resurgence, thanks to creative chefs, home cooks and (I like to think) a hearty cross-section of German-Americans who were fed up with the mockery being made of their mother country’s arguably most iconic baked (and boiled) good.

Mainers craving quality soft pretzels can rejoice in a plethora of options when it comes to these delectable plaited breads. Numerous bakeries, restaurants and bars have risen to the occasion (har) with regards to vending par excellence pretzels with the added bonus of pairing them with complementary spreads and dips. Ready to entangle yourself in the world of soft pretzels? Here are some standouts to try. pretzel made from the very spelt grains used in the production of their beer. It’s flanked by a cute crock of historic Raye’s mustard, blended by over four generations of the eponymous family.

MASON’S

A terrific sweet-meets-savory take on the twisted, tanned treat can be found at Mason’s (15 Hardy St., Brewer), where a toothsome trifecta of sugary and salty schmears—mustard, honey butter, French onion dip— accompany the large-and-in-charge soft pretzel. Partner this wonderful pretzel with one of Mason’s whimsical draft brews, like the Destiny’s Mild or Lil’ Pushbroom IPA.

LIQUID RIOT BOTTLING CO.

Prime pretzels farther afield from Bangor are available at Liquid Riot Bottling Co. (250 Commercial St., Portland),

whose house-made pretzel comes with a piquant hops-infused mustard as well as beer cheese.

FOULMOUTHED BREWING

Another Portland pub offering an unapologetically delicious pretzel is the appropriately named Foulmouthed Brewing (15 Ocean St., South Portland). Try not to blush when you request their “Giant F#%&in’ Pretzel,” which is as promised “bigger than your head,” unless you happen to be a giant. Pair with some yellow mustard and a hefty pour of the Impure Thoughts New England IPA to enjoy a sinfully good marriage of brew and bread.

TIMBER STEAKHOUSE

And need a pretzel with a flavor that matches the fire in your belly? Seek out Timber Steakhouse’s (106 Exchange St., Portland) soft pretzel accompanied by hot mustard and a spicy chipotle cheese. In combination, those two sauces pack enough punch to distract you even from that sumptuous sanguine ribeye.

KING EIDER’S PUB

Finally, at King Eider’s Pub (2 Elm St., Damariscotta), you can alternate noshing between bivalves on the half shell and beautifully browned pub “pool” pretzels, which arrive at your table warm to the touch with a side of nose-tingling whole grain mustard. To up the richness, however, swap the mustard in favor of the brie and blue cheese dipping sauce, delightfully earthy and stinky.

Give it a Try AT HOME BY AMY ALLEN

HOMEMADE SOFT PRETZELS

Yields 8 large pretzels

INGREDIENTS

12 oz. beer (up to you, but I use a light beer) 2¼ tsp active dry yeast 2 Tbsp butter (melted) 1 tsp salt 4+ cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup baking soda 1 egg

TOPPINGS

Coarse salt (or mix it up and try poppy seeds, sunflowers, cinnamon sugar or locally made Jimbo's Everything But the Bagel Seasoning Blend)

INSTRUCTIONS

In microwave or small pan, heat beer to very warm (apx. 110ºF) and stir in yeast. In large bowl, combine yeast mixture with melted butter, sugar, salt and 3 cups of flour. Beat until smooth, then continue adding flour until a soft dough forms. Knead dough on a floured surface until smooth, about 7 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, cover and let rise for about an hour in a warm spot until doubled. Preheat oven to 450ºF. Divide dough into 8 balls. Roll each into a 2-foot-long rope, then shape into pretzel using diagram below. If they look a little skinny, that's good — they'll rise more and fill in. This recipe also makes great pretzel buns simply by coiling the rope into a round roll. In a large pot, combine 8 cups of water with the baking soda and bring to boil. Drop in pretzels, 2 at a time, and boil for 30-45 seconds. Remove with slotted spoon and let drain on a wire rack. Place pretzels a few inches apart on a parchmentlined baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk the egg with 1 Tbsp water and brush over the top of the pretzels. Sprinkle with coarse salt or other topping (for toppings like cinnamon sugar that might burn, add after baking). Bake for 10-12 minutes until golden. Let cool on wire rack.

To form your pretzel shape

BONUS! BEER CHEESE DIP RECIPE

For a tasty dip to go with your soft pretzel, in a saucepan over low to medium heat, combine 2 Tbsp butter with 3 Tbsp flour, then add 1 cup milk, 2/3 cup beer, 1 Tbsp Worchester sauce, 1/2 tsp dijon mustard, 1/2 tsp garlic powder, a sprinkle of salt and melt in 2 cups of cheddar cheese. Serve hot!