be movement Celebrating the courage to be
VOL. 2
Pe o p l e Organisations (Social) Enterprises E x p e r i m e n t a l Tr a v e l www.be-movement.com
A REDISCOVERY OF BALI
not as a tourist destination, but as our mother earth
Breathe… be movement is a baring of souls. A stripping away of the superficial to what really matters. We exist to celebrate COURAGE, DIVERSITY and the HUMAN SPIRIT A Socially Conscious Publication be movement · celebrate the courage to be
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“For so I created them free and free they must remain.” ― John Milton, Paradise Lost
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be movement ¡ celebrate the courage to be
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TO BE OR NOT TO BE ? WE HAVE CHOSEN TO BE
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be movement · celebrate the courage to be
The Following In our launch issue, be movement delved beneath the glitter of Singapore to uncover some soul. With Singapore’s new found glamour and shine, it was difficult to search beyond its economic success, especially when this tiny powerhouse is determined to show the world how far it has arrived with as many world-class infrastructures as possible. It took us six months to find a collection of inspiring people in Singapore from different walks of life. We persevered as this is why we exist, to celebrate the courage to be, in a different city every quarter. In this issue, be movement travels to another tropical island, Bali, not as a tourist, but as an explorer, uncovering stories of courage, hope and inspiration that lie beyond the holiday villas, beach bars and spas. A famous holiday and cultural destination throughout the world, Bali is one of the wealthiest states in Indonesia due to tourism. However, tourism is both a blessing and a curse to this tiny island. Bali’s traditions, landscape and resources are facing unprecedented challenges with the onset of mass tourism. Why should we care about this small island, when there are many bigger problems in the world? Simply put, there is something magical here. With its skypiercing prayer columns, logic defying temples perched precariously on dramatic cliffs, emerald green paddy fields set out like a Roman amphitheatre, barrels of clear warm waves and colourful celebrations in the form of exotic music and dance, anyone who has ever visited and seen the ‘real’ Bali has felt it. Yet, without proper preservation, Bali could become another faceless beach resort city, where people go to drink and party, denuding its soul and culture. Bali is unique. Both locals and foreigners alike have such a strong love for Bali that it gives them the courage to stand up, speak out, take action and protect it in the face of bureaucracy and exploitation. Be inspired by these passionate individuals and their exciting sustainable innovations taking root throughout this island, from a school and a chocolate factory, all made out of bamboo. We uncover the local organisations, such as Pak Suteja of Bali Villa Associations, Pak Bayu of Friends of the National Parks Foundation, who have an intimate understanding of their own environment and who care about where their island is heading. We meet foreigners who are keen to make, not money, but a difference to this island, such as CNN Hero Ibu Robin Lim, ex-pro surfer Jim Banks, media professional, Alistair Speirs, on what Bali means to them. We also speak with a celebrity, Nadya Hutagalung, on what it means to stand for the Green Movement. Finally, we find out if Bali is a paradise lost or a paradise found through our experimental travel section. Join us as we explore this island that is balancing precariously on a tipping point between sustainable growth that maintains its beauty, and rampant destructive developments that threaten to erode the real - Cassie Lim, Founder of be movement Bali forever. •5
CONTENT In every quarterly issue we highlight a particular city and feature a select group of people, enterprises and organisations who have the courage to walk their beliefs. By no means representative, be movement goes with the flow and serendipitously draws together a diverse group of inspirational people from each destination.
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- bridge at green school -
PG. 14 - 25
PG. 84 - 95
paradise lost, paradise found
AN UPHILL JOURNEY
Bali Eco Stay
Balinese Contemporary Artists
PG. 26 - 31
PG. 96 - 107
SAVING BALI’S TIMELESS BEAUTY
AROUND INDONESIA IN A TUK-TUK
PG. 34 - 41
PG. 32 & 33, 108 & 109
Pak Suteja
James McClure
BIG TREE FARMS
POEMS ON BALI
PG. 42 - 49
PG. 110 - 111
IBU ROBIN’S HAVEN OF MIRACLES
UNNERVINGLY FANTASTIC
Ben Ripples
Bumi Sehat PG. 50 - 57
THE GREENEST SCHOOL ON EARTH
John Hardy PG. 58 - 59
TRANSFORMING SOFT CAPITAL
The Thought Collective PG. 60 - 63 BEYOND THE SUPERFICIAL
Nadya Hutagalung PG. 64 - 69
FLYING FREE ON THE WAVES OF LIFE
Jim Banks
PG. 70 - 75 WEAVING A FLOWER DREAM OVER INDONESIA
Ibu Lystia
PG. 76 - 83 SILENT ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDEST
Pak Bayu
Marc Nair
Nawan Poovarawan PG. 112 - 117 I AM THE SPIDERMAN
Anak Alam
PG. 118 - 129 IS IT TOO LATE FOR BALI?
Alistair Speirs PG. 130 - 133
WE ARE ALL CLUSTERS
Grace Clapham
PG. 136 - 141 UNUSUAL WORK
Adrain Gray
PG. 142 - 145 SNAPSHOTS OF OTHER ORGANISATIONS
4 Non-Profit
PG. 146 - 149 CREDITS
be Supporters
be movement Contributors be movement is a movement that aims to inspire people to have the courage to be. We do this via a socially conscious publication and by organising a series of social fairs and events to help raise awareness of others who have the courage to be. We choose to maintain the integrity of this space and of our readers by telling stories that deserve to be told. be movement is only made possible by people who believe in what it stands for and, if you feel be movement is worthy of support, we would wholeheartedly welcome that through purchases of the publication, subscription, contribution, participation, feedback or collaboration. Please log on to our website at : www.be-movement.com (www.facebook.com/bemovement) for more information, or contact be movement at : connect@be-movement.com
Subscription
Subscription for the be movement online version is available at USD 5.99 per issue and USD 19.99 per year via our online website. Hard copies are available at HUB Singapore/NYC Academy, 113 Somerset Road, Singapore 238165, and at all major bookstores and newsstands in Singapore. It retails at SGD 18.90. (EUR 12.50 USD 15.50 AUD 15) ISSN: 2301 3990 Newspaper Permit: C120654453 Official Printer: Asiawide Print Holdings (www.awph.com.sg) Design & Layout by Cleo Ngiam Web Developments by Willie Loo Cover photograph provided by Jim Banks 8•
IBU ROBIN Lim
NADYA HUTAGALUNG
JIM BANKS
Nawan NAWAN Poovarawan poovarawan
be movement · celebrate thethe courage to to be be BE MOVEMENT • celebrate courage
cleo ngiam
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PARADISE LOST, PARADISE FOUND EXPERIMENTAL TRAVEL STORY
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WRITTEN BY CASSIE LIM
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as we travel in our bubble of preconceptions, do we become prisoners of the paradise in our minds? I wondered, as I was stuck in yet another traffic jam at the big junction outside DFS Galleria Bali shopping mall. Has Bali become too much like another city, veering away from its historical and cultural roots, or was it just my unrealistic romantic notion, hoping for a Bali from a time long gone? From the moment that I landed in the airport, to the customs and the hotel, it has been one long jam after another. Having been travelling along the Southern beaches, I saw more tourists than locals, more billboards than sights, more deck chairs than people. It was hardly the tropical paradise that I remembered and brought to mind a quote by Elizabeth Kostova (Author of ‘The Historian’). “…the longing to seek out a place a second time, to find deliberately what we stumbled on once before, to recapture the feeling of discovery. Sometimes we search out again even a place that was not remarkable in itself – we look for it simply because we remember it. If we do find it, of course, everything is different. The rough-hewn door is still there, but it’s much smaller; the day is cloudy instead of brilliant; it’s spring instead of autumn; we’re alone instead of with three friends. Or, worse, with three friends instead of alone.” I suppose it really depends on what your idea of a tropical paradise is. If you like convenience and comfort, everything can be found here; from Starbucks to big brand names, hotel chains, spas, clubs and even golf courses. However, if you are looking for pristine paddy fields with no construction in sight, or clear stretches of beach unencumbered by umbrellas and deck chairs, they are fast disappearing. Eager to get away from
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the crowd, noise and traffic jams, I did some research on more remote areas and came across this eco-lodge called ‘Bali Eco Stay’. It seems ‘eco’ is the new black in the tourism industry and I wanted to find out exactly what makes this resort ‘eco’. Bali Eco Stay is situated near the UNESCO heritage Jatiluwih paddy fields, with the last half an hour drive being a bumpy ride, with no proper road. As the car hiccupped along the last stretch of the journey, I was thrilled by the lush scenery, with hardly a tourist in sight. Apparently, the condition of the road made it impossible for truckloads or busloads of tourists to come up here. Snaking along the breath-taking paddy fields, I felt like a child taking the plane again, except instead of seeing white clouds, I saw stretches of soothing green. Stepping out of the vehicle was like entering a ring of green stepladders leading towards the skies. So, this is what they are talking about, when they say the ‘real’ Bali. The scene before my eyes could be from the last century – no tourists, no traffic jams, no concrete buildings. After weeks of scouring the beaches for some sanctity, I finally found it ensconced in the green bosom of Tabanan. The bungalow that I stayed in was called ‘Ricewater’, with open wooden panels stretching across the entire living room. Completely exposed to the paddy fields and the elements, it
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- view from ‘Ricewater’ bungalow -
was not surprising to see birds and insects fly in for a hop-around. When night fell, the full orchestra of different creatures played to the twinkling stars. When morning came, walking to the living room was like falling into the paddy fields, landing in paradise. Hearing that there was a waterfall nearby, I took a morning jaunt and arrived at a private cascade, gushing forth with cool spring water. A dip here, surrounded by giant boulders and overhanging leaves, beats any chlorinated swimming pool. Food was another highlight as it was prepared with the greens from their own garden, fertilised with their own home-made compost. I’ve never seen such huge rocket leaves as I savoured the rocket salad with roasted pear slices, drizzled in honey. Just when I was feeling jaded with the rampant developments happening in Bali, she surprises me with gems like the area around Bali Eco Stay and reveals her magic that keeps drawing visitors back. For some, Bali is a life-long love story, like how it is with the founders of Bali Eco Stay, John and Kath Blundstone from Australia. Down-to-earth, sincere and warm, John and Kath have made great contributions to the local community around Bali Eco Stay. While visiting the surrounding villages on my own, I heard many good things about them, such as how they teach the villagers English for free, and organise clean-ups and recycling activities with neighbouring eco-lodges.
- view from ‘bali eco stay’ restaurant -
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Most telling was the fact that they decided to lease the land to build their eco-resort, instead of buying it, so that ultimately the land belongs to the Balinese. Interviewer: What do you do for Bali Eco Stay?
Kath Blundstone: I’m probably the garden slave. John Blundstone: She’s much more than a garden slave and I’m the coordinator. Please share with us your personal journey of how you set up Bali Eco Stay.
John Blundstone: We were at the crossroads of our lives I guess. I’ve been working in restaurants for 23 years and just decided that I’ve had enough. Kath was looking for something else to do and our son was not too happy at school, so it seems like a perfect time to change direction. We went to a camping trip for 4 months in Australia and every night I asked the powers that be to give us a sign of what to do next. Halfway through the trip, we were camped at Kakadu crocodile park in Darwin in May 2009. We camped next to this family who were very friendly to us and they told us they’ve been living in Bali and asked us to visit them at their eco-lodge in the mountains. I didn’t give it another thought really but Kath turned to me and said, “That sounds fantastic!” Now, Kath is very much a stay 20 •
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at home person who loves her garden. It was quite something for her to say that and I was definitely up for a change. So it was just for holidays initially.
John Blundstone: Yes, just for holidays and we saw their operations up there and they were great. We spent a month looking around but found nothing. Then one day, we were chatting with their chef, who said she has some land if we’re interested to take a look. The whole thing was so serendipitous and just kept going and going and going. Actually, we took a look just out of politeness as we pretty much had enough of Bali and were coming down with Bali belly. Anyway we went, saw the land and were convinced. It was at the waterfall that we shook hands there and then to start a new life here. We went back to Australia, sold everything, packed all our things and moved here. Everything was built by the local villagers in 9 months. I think we just wanted to start giving back. We sort of realised that living in Australia was just ‘me’, ‘me’, ‘me’ and we could see how the couple who invited us here were really making a difference. And the Balinese are so receptive to help and they are so enthusiastic be movement · celebrate the courage to be
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“I hope that my grandson or my great grandson can see the beauty of Bali, the traditions of Bali, the rice paddies of Bali, like what it is today. This is actually what we sell to the tourists: culture, tradition, the beauty of the island.” - pak suteja 26 •
be movement · celebrate the courage to be
SAVING BALI’S TIMELESS BEAUTY PAK SUTEJA written by Christina Ng
Pak Suteja has the courage to care about where Bali is heading Time-honoured traditions and unique cultures are what make Bali so captivating to visitors worldwide. Retaining that magical beauty though, takes heart and effort. For Mangku Suteja, the chairman of Bali Villa Association (BVA), the Balinese themselves have to step up to protect what lures visitors to Bali, if they want to continue delighting all who come into the embrace of their homeland.
Taking a stand for Bali
While tourists marvel over the glamourous five star resorts sprouting up all over Bali, Balinese like Suteja are worrying themselves sick over how the high speed development is slowly killing their charming little island. In fact, they find it necessary to take a stand, and are gathering efforts to ensure that Bali’s enchantments will not vanish as quickly as the holiday accommodations that are mushrooming at breakneck speed. The BVA is a non-profit organization, established in Bali in May 2006 by a group of professionals who desire to inform, encourage and support holiday villa owners to develop accommodation in harmony with Bali’s soul and landscape. Suteja, who chairs the organisation, tells us that “We are all afraid that if we leave development unchecked like this, where rules are not enforced well, with our leaders only thinking about how much money they can make, Bali cannot be sustained after 25 years.” He does not want Bali to become
“a destination of yesterday, where whatever good things it has, become a memory.” Rescuing Bali from unchecked progress
The worry is not unfounded. According to Suteja, nonchalant decision-makers are overly preoccupied with making tourism dollars, and have lost their foresight. This could devastate Bali’s natural environment in time to come. He quoted the example of how places in Southern Bali like the Bukit Peninsula now lack water resources after the government decided to build a golf course and a water park there – right in the midst of the driest part of Bali. He says in exasperation: “How can we have a golf course there when we need water everyday?” The fighter is deeply saddened. He adds: “No one controls who is doing what. You can do whatever you want and nobody can control you. It’s very
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Legong Known in some translations as the dance of the heavenly nymphs. Traditionally performed by pubescent girls in the palaces of feudal Bali. Gamelan Indonesian orchESTRAL MUSIC
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be movement ¡ celebrate the courage to be
legong MARC NAIR
Her eyes are still unlined, her lips unkissed. Her heart loves only the praise of her gods.
She moves in their shadow, through slivers of light, their story curving into a pliant body.
Hands clasp in prayer, then curl into pictures of old kingdoms, inviting gods to drink in her offering
as she steps through a thousand fragile details, until even her name is lost, in the swoon of the gamelan.
Eyelids, painted like a peacock’s, flutter and close. She sinks to the ground in surrender, a temple stone. be movement ¡ celebrate the courage to be
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“The whole thing of lying under the water and listening to this thing pass over my head was just actually beautiful, an incredible profound experience. I actually really enjoy it. It’s like jumping into a hole and watching a whole herd of elephants stamping over you.”
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flying free on the waves of life JIM BANKS written by Christina Ng
Jim Banks has the courage to find his own way of surfing
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- jim banks, deep inside a barrel photograph provided by Jim Banks • 65
- photography by Karen thibault 150 •
be movement ¡ celebrate the courage to be
NEXT issue highlights
india varanasi ‘‘Benares (Varanasi) is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.’’ - Mark Twain
be movement · celebrate the courage to be
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be movement celebrates the intangibles that make life worth living
“ exciting and imaginative ” Noam Chomsky (Father of Modern Linguist) “ be movement‘s vision is pure and clear, it is poised to really Rock the World ”
IBU ROBIN (CNN Hero)
“ small step towards a giant revolution in people’s mind ”
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GLEN GOEI (Film & Theatre Director)
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