Issue 03 June 2020
BE-PUBLIC FASHION
BEAUTY
ART
ILLUSTRATION
NATURE
ARCHITECTURE
ANIMALS
COVER: WOOD ELF FANTASY Photographer: Jay Ewanchook
CHINA CHAINS WOMANLINESS
WOOD ELF FANTASY
HELLANA
COLLECTION OF SELF-PORTRAITS
LONG EARS, TATTOOS AND FADING TRADITIONS
LIGHTS OF...
MONICA REFLECT
PRONÁJEM FOTOATELIÉRU Pronájem moderního a vybaveného ateliéru v centru Pardubic. Vhodný i pro náročnější focení, 40 m2, denní světlo (dvě velká okna), ateliérové svícení (zábleskové i permanentní), mnoho druhů pozadí i rekvizit, zázemí s kuchyňkou i koupelnou. Cena pronájmu již od 300 Kč / hod. Ateliér Foto s úsměvem Areál VADAS, 17. listopadu 216, Pardubice. Budova v areálu po pravé straně (E-SMILE.cz). Parkování zdarma přímo před ateliérem v zabezpečeném dvoře. Rezervace a informace na info@fotosusmevem.cz a na tel. +420 608 464 545.
PHOTOSTUDIO FOR RENT Modern photography studio for rent in the center of Pardubice. Suitable for demanding photography, 40 m2, daylight (two large windows), studio lighting (flash and permanent), many types of background and props, background with kitchen and bathroom. Rent price starting from 300 CZK / hour. Studio Foto s úsměvem Areal VADAS, 17. listopadu 216, Pardubice. Building on the right side (E-SMILE.cz). Free parking directly in front of the studio in a secured courtyard. For more information or reservation write to info@fotosusmevem.cz or call +420 608 464 545. WWW.FOTOSUSMEVEM.CZ
LIGHTS OF... CHINA CHAINS Photographer: David La Pietra Model: Angela Soccol MUAH: Alessandra Venditti
SAINT PETERSBURG Photographer: Lukáš Zeman Location: Saint Petersburg, Russia
WOOD ELF FANTASY Photographer & Wardrobe Stylist: Jay Ewanchook Model & Makeup Artist: Hannah Ferleyko Special effects Technician: Robert Watson
HELLANA Photographer: Pauline Mongarny Model: Hellana Mardasian by MOT Models
COLLECTION OF SELF-PORTRAITS Model & MUAH & Photographer: Sofía Hasbun
MONICA Photographer: Alex Carlan Model: Monica Turlui
WOMANLINESS Photographer: Tetiana Rozhanska MUAH: Polly Model: Anna Korvel
LONG EARS, TATTOOS AND FADING TRADITIONS Photographers: Ganecha Yudhistira Text: Fajaria Menur Widowati Location: Kalimantan (Borneo), Indonesia
REFLECT Photographer: Alena Češková
BE-PUBLIC is a digital and print magazine based in Pardubice, Czechia, that was created to present and support photographers, visual artists and creative people from around the world. You can publish a fashion, beauty, portrait, art, nature, architecture photography, illustration or your personal art work. Our magazine is filled with unique and inspiring individuals who are extremely passionate about their work, which is demonstrated in all of the photos within the entire Magazine! BE-PUBLIC works with professionals from different spheres: photographers, stylists, makup artists, designers, illustrators etc. No metter who you are or where are you from, if you‘d like to share your visual work, get in touch with us at submissions@ be-publicmagazine.com. We believe in a talent of each and everyone, so don‘t hesitate to share your work and give others a chance to see it! BE-PUBLIC je online a tištěný časopis se sídlem v Pardubicích v České republice, který vznikl pro podporu a prezentaci fotografů, vizuálních umělců a kreativních lidí nejen z České republiky, ale celého světa. Můžete zde publikovat fotografie ve stylu fashion, beauty, art, portréty, přírodu, zvířata, architekturu, ale také své ilustrace a umělecké práce. Náš časopis je plný jedinečných a inspirativních tvůrců, které jejich kreativní práce baví a na výsledku jejich fotografií je to vidět! BE-PUBLIC spolupracuje s profesionály z různých sfér, s fotografy, vizážisty, stylisty, návrháři, ilustrátory a dalšími tvůrci. Posílejte nám své práce, ať už tvoříte cokoli. Přihlášky očekáváme na e-mailu submissions@be-publicmagazine.com. Nebojte se svou tvorbu ukázat, my věříme ve výjimečnost každého z vás. Dejte šanci i ostatním, aby objevili váš talent!
CHINA CHAINS Photographer: David La Pietra Model: Angela Soccol MUAH: Alessandra Venditti T-shirt: TEZENIS Earrings: UNO DE 50
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Photographer & Wardrobe Stylist: Jay Ewanchook Model & Makeup Artist: Hannah Ferleyko Special effects Technician: Robert Watson
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WOOD ELF FANTASY
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Photographer: Pauline Mongarny Model: Hellana Mardasian by MOT Models
HELLANA
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SELF-PORTRAITS
COLLECTION OF
Model & MUAH & Photographer: Sofía Hasbun
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Photographer: Alex Carlan Model: Monica Turlui
MONICA
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WOMAN
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Photographer: Tetiana Rozhanska MUAH: Polly Model: Anna Korvel Dress&Style: Diva Hat design: Solomka Top&Bottom: Lavarice Location: 0603 studio
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ATTOOS AND ITIONS Excerpt: The Dayak indigenous group in Kalimantan has a long history of traditional tattooing and elongating of the ear lobes as a sign of beauty and nobility. In recent years, however, modern stigma has put an end to this centuries-old practice. By Ganesha Yudhistira
Photographers: Ganecha Yudhistira Text: Fajaria Menur Widowati Location: Kalimantan (Borneo), Indonesia
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The Wahea Dayak were already busy with the nemlen traditional ritual when I arrived at the village of Bea Nehas in the Wahau District of East Kalimantan. The nemlen ritual, used to initiate a male child into adulthood, begins with a three-day fast and is celebrated by the whole community of Wahea Dayaks. It’s a major event, usually held about once every five years, because of the costs and preparation involved. The village of Bea Nehas and their nemlen ritual was where I, armed with a camera, I began documenting Dayak women and men with long ears and tattoos from East to North Kalimantan throughout July and August 2018. A four-hour journey on dirt road from the city of Tanjung Redeb in East Kalimantan, the villagers of Bea Nehas receive visitors once every two to three months. Four grandmothers who live in the village still have long ears. They’re about 80 to 90 years old, but are still strong enough to wash clothes by hand and complete other household activities. They were very friendly, offering me nginang (betel nut leaves) to chew and a place to stay the night. 29
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My journey then continued towards the next village of Nehas Liah Bing, surrounded by oil palm plantations. Huwanteg, a 73-year-old grandmother, still actively plants rice, rubber and trees. She’s witnessed a great many changes over the years, and feels that the palm oil plantations that increasingly encircle the village have made the days feel “narrower”, as if the village was literally being boxed in. Because of these plantations, Huwanteg must now walk for about an hour to the paddy fields. She has her own form of resistance: to fight the plantations that have eroded the forests, Huwanteg plants ulin (a rare timber tree) instead. „I don‘t like oil palm, I like to plant ulin because it can be used for my children and grandchildren later,“ Huwanteg said. The wood from her trees can be used to build houses for future generations. But while the environment may have changed, Huwanteg has not. Her earlobes are still elongated, adorned with earrings called swol. Beauty Markers and Noble Status The Dayak indigenous people inhabit the island of Borneo and there are at least 470 recorded Dayak sub-tribes scattered across the island. For some Dayaks, elongating the earlobes and tattooing the body are traditions that have been in place for hundreds of years. For both men and women, these long ears and tattoos represent beauty, and are seen as a way to distinguish between humans and animals like orangutans and apes. Additionally, for the Dayak Kenyah, if there are more than three bands of tattoos on the feet or hands then the tattooed person is considered to be paren, or part of the nobility. The process of elongation requires the ears of girls and boys to be pierced shortly after birth, with new holes made when they are 10 years old. Pekulud, a grandmother I met in Metun Sajau Village in North Kalimantan, told me that her ears were pierced with thorns wrapped in cloth when she was a baby. The cloth was left in the hole, only pulled out, slowly and carefully, whenever she took a shower. As she began to crawl, earrings were hung from her ears so that her lobes would be more and more elongated as she grew. The longer the ear of a woman, the more beautiful she is considered. The more earrings in her ears, the higher her social status in society. Laughing, Pekulud said that her hand often gets caught in her ears or her ears catch on branches when she goes to the fields. Unlike men, women’s long ears shouldn’t surpass their shoulders and metal jewelry shouldn’t be used; instead, animal teeth such as tiger fangs are threaded through the earlobes. Tattooing, on the other hand, is only done once Dayak women and men enter adulthood. For women, tattoos are a mandatory requirement for marriage. Wahea Dayak women usually inscribe tattoos on their ankles, with nine circles on each foot, and on their hands. The tattoos are done using needles, thorns from salak (snake fruit), or thorns f rom orange trees. The motifs are inscribed using black soot as a natural ink. 31
Not all Wahea Dayak men are tattooed, some mark their path to adulthood with a nemlen traditional ceremony instead. Dayak Kenyah and Kayan men, on the other hand, tattoo the right and left sides of their necks and shoulders with eggplant flower motifs; Kayan men also specifically have tattoos with a typical Kayan carving motif on their hands. For some Dayaks, tattoos also show migration patterns. For example, tattoos on the neck, just below the chin, are usually only obtained by those who migrate to the area of the Iban Dayak tribe. Eroded traditions over time Over the course of a month of travel f rom Samarinda in East Kalimantan to Bulungan in North Kalimantan, I stopped by 19 villages. During this month, I photographed as many as 30 long-eared tattooed women and men. They were all over 70 years old – the last generation of long-eared and tattooed Dayaks. Photographing these older people was no easy task, as they generally didn’t speak Indonesian but the local Bahasa Banjar instead. We’d had to communicate via improvised sign language so I could ask their permission to take pictures. I would then print the photos and return with them the next day. The prints made the atmosphere a lot more relaxed. An elder might smile at his face in a photo; I would then ask for his family‘s help to translate our conversation. Changing attitudes Like Huwanteg, 75-year-old Pekulud’s village is also surrounded by palm oil plantations. Pelukud is a descendant of paren, or the Dayak Kenyah nobility. She still sports tattoos, but no longer has long ears. In the 1980s, when she moved to the village where she now lives, Pelukud and her classmates were ordered by the village leader to cut off their long ears. The chief insisted that the long ears of the Dayak Kenyah tribe were part of a primitive heritage they had leave behind to enter the modern age. With a heavy heart, Pelukud went to a local clinic that cut off her long earlobes. She’s since come to regret it; not only does she feel like she’s lost an important part of her culture, but she’s found that long ears have now also become a source of fascination. „I regret cutting my ears because they’re the most sought after thing [with tourists] and only a few [elders] still have them now,“ she said.
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Like all Dayak women and men with long ears and tattoos, Pelukud’s generation is the last to have these traditional adornments. Her four children and nine grandchildren no longer elongate their ears or tattoo their bodies. Pelukud and other grandmothers I met confessed that they were worried their children would not have been able to attend high school and find work if they had traditional tattoos. Age old traditions and modern stigma A number of government agencies in Indonesia specify that prospective applicants to the civil service cannot have tattoos. Regulations related to the hiring of civil servants in the Republic of Indonesia Prosecutor’s Office, for instance, clearly state that male applicants cannot have tattoos or piercings. It’s a rule that excludes indigenous cultures like the Dayaks, who have a tradition of tattooing. But in the appendix of the Rules of the Head of the National Archives of the Republic of Indonesia No.15 of 2017 concerning the Guidelines for Procurement of Prospective Civil Servants in the National Archives of the Republic of Indonesia in Chapter II, it states that employees must have no tattoos or piercings, or piercings other than in the ears except other than those that relate to religion or local customs which would technically cover the Dayak’s tattoos. But the lack of written support from district or local governments make it difficult for indigenous communities to argue their case. Some schools don’t accept students who have tattoos, which clearly disenfranchises those from local communities. On the whole, tattoos are still generally considered taboo in Indonesia and there are concerns that this has caused older Dayaks to abandon some of their cultural traditions when it comes to their children. Some of the grandmothers I met claimed to have tattooed their bodies only after leaving school. Younger Dayaks, particularly those born in the late 1970s on, are unlikely to pick up these traditions themselves. Those I spoke to said they weren’t interested in having long ears or big tattoos. Many of this generation have also embraced Christianity, moving away from the beliefs of their ancestors. Increasingly, these traditions can only be seen through photographs and stories of the remaining village elders. Such cultural and historical documentation is important for future generations, lest the tradition of the Dayaks disappear from human memory forever.
** The author is a photographer and works as a volunteer in several non-profit organisations for the environment. Ganesha was born and raised in Samarinda, East Kalimantan. 34
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LIGHTS OF...
SAINT PETERSBURG Photographer: Lukáš Zeman Location: Saint Petersburg, Russia
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PAULINE MONGARNY Fashion, portrait and art photographer London, England pauline.mongarny.photographer paulinemongarnyii www.paulinemongarny.com
SOFÍA HASBUN Art and portrait photographer Monterrey, Mexico byhasbun sofiahasbunc
JAY EWANCHOOK Fine-art, fashion, photographer Calgary, Canada false.peak jay.ewanchook
ALEX CARLAN Art, portrait, lifestyle photographer Cluj-Napoca, Romania aliecs alex.thee.1
TETIANA ROZHANSKA
GANECHA YUDHISTIRA
Beauty and portrait photographer
Culture Photographer and Ecotourism Activist
Moscow, Russia
Samarinda, Indonesia
photo_rozhanskaya _TANYA_RO_
DAVID LA PIETRA
ganesayudhistira
ganecha.yudhistira
FAJARIA MENUR WIDOWATI
Fine-art, portrait, fashion photographer
Documentary Film Maker and Content Creator
Albano Laziale, Italia
Jakarta, Indonesia
davidlapietraphotography
riajosuwarno
davidlapietraph
fajaria.widowati
LUKÁŠ ZEMAN Nature photography Pardubice, Czechia
BE-PUBLIC Magazine www.be-publicmagazine.com Knihy s úsměvem s.r.o. 17. listopadu 216, 530 02 Pardubice, Czechia IČ: 08736677
www.lukas-zeman.cz
MK ČR E 23942
lukaszemanphoto
Release date: 12. 06. 2020 Periodicity: Once a month
ALENA ČEŠKOVÁ Fine art photographer Žďár nad Sázavou, Czechia
alena_ceskova alena.ceskova.925
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ISSN 2694-9601
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