Tasting Notes

Don't Blame Your Headache on Sulfites

Sulfites suffer an undeserved bad rap. For years now many headaches from wine have been undeservedly blamed on these compounds. Since sulfites are a byproduct of the fermentation process, 100% sulfite-free wines do not exist. The Romans used sulfites to thwart oxidation and help wine age well. Even today, wineries add them as a preservative. Moreover, almost all processed foods use sulfites as a preservative -- and most at higher levels than wine.

The United States Department of Agriculture has set forth that wines labeled “organic wine,” must have no sulfites added and detectable sulfites of less than than 10 parts per million (ppm). Wines “made from organically grown grapes,” must have less than 100 ppm of sulfur. Conventional wines, for lack of a better term, must weigh in at lower than 300 ppm of sulfites.

Some unsulfured wines are unstable: they age quickly, change color, and develop offensive off-flavors. Many “sulfite-free” wines hide flaws of bad winemaking in the name of “natural wine.” Because these wines sell slower in the market, many wholesalers hold on to sulfite-free wines far too long. These wines often move more slowly from the retail shelf, also. The consumer runs the risk of buying and tasting a wine that is far past its life span. “Sulfite-free” wines, be they originally red or white, that are brownish, are oxidized and past their prime.

People with sulfite allergies usually suffer from anaphylaxis. A preponderance of people claim headaches after drinking red wines and do not have symptoms from whites. White wines and sweet wines normally have higher sulfite contents than reds, thereby suggesting that the headache is probably caused by something else in the wine.

Here are some reasons you might be suffering headaches and how you might avoid them. Wines from warmer climate often have more extraction (color and tannins) and higher alcohol levels. Tannins and color can lead to histamine reactions. Some people are sensitive to alcohol. Instead, choose wines from cooler climates. They tend to have less extraction and lower alcohol levels.

Producers sometimes correct wines from less than perfect grapes with additives to maintain consistency of flavor, color, and mouthfeel. These concentrated additives can be too much for some palates and bodies. Try buying from smaller producers. Chemicals and additives of any sort are expensive, and small wineries would rather spend on producing and securing higher quality grapes than pay to correct for subpar grapes.

Do not fall into the trap of looking solely for wines with the word organic on the label. Many producers practice organic viticulture without paying for expensive certifications just to receive the right to use the word on the label. Ask for help. A reputable wine merchant will be able to help you determine which wines will help you avoid headaches. They want you to enjoy your wine … and come back to thank them.

Brett Chappell is a Certified Sommelier and Wine Educator. He and his wife Jen, a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level Two, own MF Chappell Wine Merchant in Atlantic Beach. Their website is MFChappellWine.com and the phone number is 252-773-4016. They offer gourmet goods, cigars, wine tastings, and virtual wine classes along with their wine.