VTCT Higher Diploma Text Book

Page 1

VTCT Level 2 Higher Diploma in

Hair & Beauty Studies Series editor: Samantha Taylor Authors: Diane Hey Karen Hunter Christine Reilly-Smythe Jane Roche Kylee-Jayne Tyrrell

working in partnership

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Heinemann is an imprint of Pearson Education Limited, a company incorporated in England and Wales, having its registered office at Edinburgh Gate, Harlow, Essex, CM20 2JE. Registered company number: 872828 www.pearsonschoolsandfecolleges.co.uk Heinemann is a registered trademark of Pearson Education Limited Text © Pearson Education Limited 2009 First published 2009 13 12 11 10 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978 0 435447 55 7 Copyright notice All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means (including photocopying or storing it in any medium by electronic means and whether or not transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication) without the written permission of the copyright owner, except in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency, Saffron House, 6­–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS (www.cla.co.uk). Applications for the copyright owner’s written permission should be addressed to the publisher. Edited by Susan Ross Designed and Typeset by Dickidot Limited Original illustrations © Pearson 2009 Illustrated by Artful Doodlers Ltd Picture researcher Emma Whyte Cover design by Dickidot Limited Cover photo © Image Source Printed in the UK by Scotprint Acknowledgements Every effort has been made to contact copyright holders of material reproduced in this book. Any omissions will be rectified in subsequent printings if notice is given to the publishers. Websites There are links to relevant websites in this book. In order to ensure that the links are up to date, that the links work, and that the sites are not inadvertently linked to sites that could be considered offensive, we have made the links available on the Heinemann website at www. heinemann.co.uk/hotlinks. When you access the site, the express code is 7557P.

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Contents Introduction to the Student Book . . . . . . . . . . v Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

The role of communication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82

Health and safety legislation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Types and methods of communication . . . . . . . . 84

Workplace policies and procedures . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Barriers to communication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

Personal standards, presentation and conduct . . 20

Adapting communication. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Lifestyle choices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Customer service and satisfaction . . . . . . . . . . . .92

Occupational hazards and risk assessment . . . . . 24

Client consultation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

Unit 2 The world of hair and beauty. . . . . . . 30

Unit 5 History of hair and beauty in society. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Global nature of the hair and beauty industries. . 32 Economic influences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Business processes and procedures. . . . . . . . . . . 36 Social, ethical and environmental issues . . . . . . . 38 Communication with customers. . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Promoting and selling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Job roles and career pathways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Employability skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Cultural and social influences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Technical and economic influences. . . . . . . . . . 106 Historical and iconic developments. . . . . . . . . . 108 Trends and developments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Creating an image . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation. . . . . . . . . 120

Unit 3 The science of hair and beauty. . . . . . 52

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Ethics and good practice in sales and promotion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Anatomy and physiology of the skin. . . . . . . . . . 54 Anatomy and physiology of the hair. . . . . . . . . . 56

Importance of selling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

Anatomy and physiology of the nail . . . . . . . . . . 58

Legislation, policies and procedures. . . . . . . . . .126

Anatomy and physiology of head, neck and shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60

Products, services and equipment . . . . . . . . . . .130

Anatomy and physiology of arms, hands, legs and feet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

Promotional techniques and strategies . . . . . . . 134

Skin, hair and nail health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Key services in the hair and beauty sector. . . . . . 66

Product displays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140

Effects of products, heat, water and electricity . . 68 Common testing procedures. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Principles of light and colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

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Unit 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty. . . . . . . . . 142

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling. . . . . 196

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143

Hair styling services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198

Legal obligations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144

Hair types. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

Types and range of businesses. . . . . . . . . . . . . .146

Social and cultural influences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202

Business processes and systems. . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

Tools, products and equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

Key roles and functions of a reception area . . . .152 Maintaining and organising a reception area . . 154

Client consultation and preparation for service. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

Money handling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156

Creation of hair styles and services. . . . . . . . . . 208

Communication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

Enhancing and adapting styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212

Teamwork. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160

Key health and safety practices. . . . . . . . . . . . . 214

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

Pricing structures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

Presentation and conduct. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216

Services and treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art . . .222 Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up . . . 170

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

Hand care and nail art treatments . . . . . . . . . . .224

Skin care and make-up services. . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

Nail shapes and types. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

Skin types. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174

Social and cultural influences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228

Social and cultural influences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

Tools, products and equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

Tools, products and equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

Client consultation and preparation for treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232

Client consultation and preparation for treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180

Creation of nail art designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234

Application of make-up and skin care treatments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182

Enhancing and adapting techniques. . . . . . . . . 238

Enhancing and adapting treatments. . . . . . . . . 186

Presentation and conduct. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242

Key health and safety practices. . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

Presentation and conduct. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246

Review learning and progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248

Key health and safety practices. . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

Assessment tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194

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INTRODUCTION

Introduction to the Student Book About the Diploma Welcome to the Hair and Beauty Studies Diploma, an exciting opportunity to experience the wider sectors and subsectors of the six hair and beauty industries that will introduce you to a wide range of jobs and careers. You will develop knowledge and understanding of a variety of subjects through exploration and development of creative and practical skills. The six industries that the Diploma focuses on are: ll beauty therapy ll hairdressing ll African-Caribbean hairdressing ll barbering ll nail services ll spa therapy. Within the six industries are interlinking industries, including: ll retail ll customer service ll media ll business ll science ll event management ll product manufacture, development and design.

Options after the Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies After studying the Diploma, you will have experienced ‘snapshots’ of many sectors and subsectors within the six industries themselves. Consequently, you may have identified a pathway that suits you, examples of which are given below.

Further and higher study Further or higher education options are available in different areas and will give you the opportunity to further your knowledge of the industries or other subjects.

Vocational career National Vocational Qualifications (NVQs) will enable you to become job-ready for a career in hair, beauty, nail or spa treatments. This could be studied either full time or part time or as an apprenticeship.

Alternative career Having studied subjects that complement the hair and beauty industry, you may decide to diversify into other career pathways.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

What you will cover The Diploma is made up of three main strands and you will need to pass all of these in order to achieve your Diploma qualification.

Principal learning This is the main subject focus of the qualification and is organised into units as shown below. 1

Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty

Internally assessed

2

The world of hair and beauty

Externally assessed

3

The science of hair and beauty

Internally assessed

4

Communication and client care in hair and beauty

Internally assessed

5

History of hair and beauty in society

Internally assessed

6

Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Internally assessed

7

Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Internally assessed

8

Exploring skin care and make-up

Internally assessed

9

Exploring hair care and styling

Internally assessed

10

Exploring hand care and nail art

Internally assessed

You will study subjects that are directly related to the hair and beauty sector, along with other subjects that complement and link to the six industries, set in a context that you can relate to. Your teacher or tutor will set assignments for each of the internally assessed units and you will sit an examination for the externally assessed unit.

Generic learning During your learning, you will also study subjects such as Functional Skills (FS) and Personal Learning and Thinking Skills (PLTS) (see below). At the heart of the Diploma are Personal Learning and Thinking Skills. Acquisition of these will form the bedrock of all future learning.

Additional and specialist learning (ASL) In this part of your course, you can choose subjects that interest and motivate you but that will also broaden or deepen your knowledge and skills. Subjects may be directly related to hair and beauty, allowing you to specialise even further, or your choice for ASL may extend further into other subjects that interest you. In addition to principal learning, generic learning and additional and specialist learning, you will complete a Project qualification and carry out a minimum of ten days of work experience. Your teacher, practitioner or tutor will support you in both of these, particularly in looking for suitable work placements that you will enjoy and gain valuable work skills from.

Creative and practical skills The Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies covers a variety of introductory creative and practical skills set in a context that you can relate to. This is underpinned by a broad knowledge base for you to study in an applied way, which will equip you with significant choice and transferable skills for the future, whether in training or employment.

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INTRODUCTION

Functional Skills – get the basics right In the hair and beauty industries, skills in English, Mathematics and ICT are as important as the specialist skills and technical knowledge. Each section of this book will identify opportunities to develop these three functional skills, which you will need to achieve at a certain standard in order to attain your Diploma. Job

Example of use of Functional Skills

Answering the telephone

English – listening

Booking appointments

English – listening, reading and writing ICT – electronic booking systems

Colouring hair

Mathematics – measuring the correct amount of colour

Client consultations

English – reading, writing, listening

A snapshot of some Functional Skills used in the hair and beauty industries

Without realising it, we use Functional Skills every minute, every day of our life. They are valuable and essential skills that allow you to access and understand information. Even when you think you are relaxing, you are still probably using the listening skill: for example, when watching television or listening to music. Here are some further examples. ll When you are cooking, you will be reading instructions [English], interpreting information [English] and measuring ingredients [Mathematics]. ll When you are shopping, you will be reading price labels [English], and working out whether you can afford to buy something [Mathematics]. ll When you are on the computer [ICT], you could be emailing or texting friends [English] or looking for a friend on a social networking site [ICT]. When you are learning Functional Skills, try to relate them to something that you do every day and this will help your understanding.

Personal Learning and Thinking Skills To get ahead in the hair and beauty sector, you will also need to develop your personal learning and thinking skills. Employers like people who are able to: ll work as a team ll think on their feet ll use their initiative ll manage their time ll review their performance and make improvements ll take part in lots of roles and communicate well ll think creatively. Six PLTS have been identified that will help you get on better in life and work because they will encourage you to develop and progress further as a person and future employee. They are: 1. Team Worker 2. Independent Enquirer 3. Self Manager 4. Reflective Learner 5. Effective Participator 6. Creative Thinker

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Case studies

Picture this Independent Enquirer – Beauty Consultant Lisa works as a beauty consultant on the cosmetics counter of a department store. Part of her job involves analysing each customer’s skin type and deciding on the appropriate skin care and make-up that suits their skin and lifestyle. Quite often, customers have a definite idea about what they like and what suits their skin type which isn’t always correct, so Lisa needs to listen and understand people’s views and recognise that other people may have different views and beliefs to her own.

Picture this Creative Thinker – Make-up Artist Jonjo works as a session make-up artist on photo shoots. His job is fast-paced and he needs to be able to adapt his specialist skills and techniques depending on the brief that he is given. He has to think creatively and develop new and original ideas and looks on the models for each job he gets assigned to.

Picture this Team Worker – Spa Therapist Lucy works within a large team at a Destination Spa. Although she is part of the treatment team, she needs to interact with other teams within the spa, such as hospitality, management, housekeeping and sports teams. Good communication and working relationships between teams and respect for each other is essential to the overall success of the spa and the promotion of a good atmosphere for visitors.

Picture this Self Manager – Hairdressing Franchise Philip is the manager of a major hairdressing franchise. There are ten hair salons in the group and he is responsible for running all of them, ensuring that standards throughout each is consistent with the company’s policy. He needs to use his time well, prioritising and balancing competing pressures and the demands of the business and his staff.

Picture this Reflective Learner – Nail Technician Amar works in a nail bar as a nail technician. He feels that his success lies in the fact that he is always trying to improve his techniques. He is a perfectionist and can always see room for improvement. He is more than happy to receive feedback from his manager and colleagues, regularly seeking opinions from others, and it is this quality that has helped him to improve his skills and make him a better nail technician.

Picture this Effective Participator – Barber Since college Jon has always been a reliable member of any group, always ready to fully engage and participate with enthusiasm in a variety of different lessons. After he had trained as a barber, he was offered a rent-a-chair business within a local hairdressing salon, so with a real can-do attitude he set up and ran his business offering barbering services to existing and new clients.

Check it out 1. Which PLTS do you think is your strength? 2. Which PLTS do you think you would like to improve during your Diploma course? viii A01_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 8

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INTRODUCTION

Experience of work Work experience is an important part of the Hair and Beauty Studies Diploma. You will undertake a minimum of ten days. This doesn’t have to be in a hair or beauty setting; there is a wealth of opportunity available in industries that interlink with the hair and beauty industry. Quality work experience may not be easy to obtain as there is high demand for placements, but a good experience of work will help you to make informed decisions about your future career as well as offering you the opportunity to apply and add to your knowledge, understanding and skills. Work experience can be done in various ways and could be organised as: ll a two-week placement ll one day a week for ten weeks ll shorter activities that link with employers and the school.

Where can you go? The units in the Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies support work experience in a wide range of settings. The more obvious placements within companies or businesses to demonstrate the skills and knowledge within the units could be a: ll hairdressing salon ll beauty salon ll spa ll nail bar ll barber salon. The less obvious opportunities that run throughout most companies and businesses could be a: ll hotel – to develop reception, interpersonal and customer care skills ll department store – to develop knowledge of products, skin care, interpersonal skills and customer service ll gym or health club – to develop knowledge of lifestyle choices in relation to fitness and exercise, nutrition and diet ll physiotherapy or chiropractic clinic – to develop knowledge of anatomy and physiology and occupational health issues ll salon suppliers – to develop knowledge of product ranges and industry retailing ll theatre or library – to develop knowledge of historical looks for hair and beauty throughout the ages.

Over to you Thinking about work experience Be creative and write a list of places that you could go for your work experience. Explain what you are hoping to get out of the experience. Discuss work experience options with your teacher or tutor.

Making contact When you have decided where you would like to go, your teacher, practitioner or tutor will discuss with you how you should make contact with the employer, either by email or formal letter. Sometimes the personal approach to employers is best: for example, talking to them face to face or phoning them. Employers are very busy people, so don’t be put off if you don’t receive an answer. Talk to your teacher, practitioner or tutor, who will be able to advise you about the next way to approach them. ix A01_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 9

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

How to use this book This book is divided into ten units to match the structure of the Higher Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies specifications. Each double page section covers an individual subject or topic within the unit.

Features of the book

Starting point A thought-provoking question or interesting fact to set the scene. Appears at the beginning of every section.

Jargon buster Definitions of key terms in the spread. The term is highlighted in bold type in the text.

Top tip Practical tips and advice.

Find out more Tips on where you can find out more about a particular subject including sources of research.

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INTRODUCTION

Did you know? Interesting facts and figures from the six hair and beauty industries.

Over to you Activities are included in every section and are designed to: ll test your understanding ll help prepare you for assessment ll give you opportunities to apply knowledge and skills. Identifies PLTS and FS covered by the activity.

Links to PLTS and FS Each Over to you/Picture this identifies PLTS and FS that are covered while carrying out the activity.

Check it out Questions at the end of every section to check key knowledge and understanding that have been covered.

Picture this A personalised case study applying to the real world, followed by questions and activities that will encourage you to further develop your understanding. Identifies PLTS and FS covered by the questions/activities.

Review and assessment Each unit ends with: ll Review learning and progress – to help you ensure that you feel confident in your knowledge of the subject. ll Assessment tips – includes tips on how to prepare for the assessment, a grid summarising what you must know, with guidance and tips on how to achieve the higher marks, and ideas for projects.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Introduction Hair and beauty businesses must meet and maintain high standards of health, safety and hygiene so that they present no risk to clients and employees and remain inspiring and successful in a growing industry. This unit will help you to understand the importance of the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 and learn about key legal requirements in the hair and beauty sector. The Act is designed to protect employers, clients and employees from accident, illness and injury. Everyone has a legal duty to follow this and, if a business is found to be negligent, it can be prosecuted. It covers the storage and use of equipment, training, adequate facilities and maintaining a working environment that is free from risks to health. Accidents, both at home and at work, are on the increase and, while it will never be possible to prevent accidents, everyone has a responsibility to try to make the workplace as safe as they can. It’s important to have the highest standards of health, safety and hygiene at all times. If we didn’t, we would have: ll dirty workplaces ll unprofessional employees

Links to other units

ll unsafe equipment

This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning.

ll illness and cross-infection ll accidents and injury ll a poor reputation, resulting in loss of business or closure.

Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section ...

Page number

LO1:

Health and safety legislation

14 – 15

Know the main health and safety legislation, policies and procedures

Workplace policies and procedures

16 – 19

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art When you are safely preparing the work When you are safely preparing the work area and client for treatment

LO2: Be able to demonstrate safe working practices in a hair and beauty environment

LO3: Understand the expected standards of personal presentation, hygiene and behaviour and their impact and importance

Occupational hazards and risk assessment

24 – 25

Personal standards, presentation and conduct

20 – 21

Lifestyle choices

22 – 23

When you are using tools and equipment correctly and following manufacturers’ guidelines When you are carrying out treatments and following health and safety requirements and working practices throughout, following instructions and directions where necessary Presenting and conducting yourself appropriately throughout When dealing with any health and safety risks as they happen and reporting them if required

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Health and safety legislation Introduction

Starting point Accidents can occur at home and at work and are increasing every year.

The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 sets out the guidelines for managing health, safety and the environment in the workplace. Under the Act, there are many individual regulations that may need to be followed to maintain safe working environments in the six hair and beauty industries. In this section, you will find out about the workplace regulations that are important for the safety and welfare of customers, employers and employees. If you work in the hair or beauty sector, you will be expected to be aware of specific legislation for your own job role. This will vary between local authorities, so it is essential that businesses find out about the rules and guidelines that they need to follow in order to ensure a safe and healthy workplace.

Health and safety legislation Below are some of the more important health and safety laws and regulations that you will need to be aware of.

Jargon buster Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 the most important piece of legislation covering occupational health and safety in the UK Legislation law passed by parliament or other governing body Precautions actions taken to protect against harm or trouble

ll Management of Health and Safety at Work Regulations 1999 – require employers to carry out risk assessments, make arrangements to implement necessary measures, appoint competent people and arrange for appropriate information and training. ll Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992 – cover a wide range of basic health, safety and welfare issues such as ventilation, heating, lighting, workstations, seating and welfare facilities. ll Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations 1992 – set out requirements for work with visual display units (VDUs). ll Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992 – require employers to provide appropriate protective clothing and equipment for their employees. ll Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 – require that equipment provided for use at work, including machinery, is safe. ll Manual Handling Operations Regulations 1992 – cover the movement of objects by hand or bodily force. ll Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations 1981 – cover requirements for first aid. ll Health and Safety Information for Employees Regulations 1989 – require employers to display a poster telling employees what they need to know about health and safety. ll Employers’ Liability (Compulsory Insurance) Act 1969 – requires employers to take out insurance against accidents and ill health to their employees. ll Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR) 1995 – require employers to report certain occupational injuries, diseases and dangerous events.

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

ll Noise at Work Regulations 1989 – require employers to take action to protect employees from hearing damage. ll Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 – require people responsible for electrical systems to ensure they are safe to use and maintained in a safe condition. ll Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH) 2002 – require employers to assess the risks from hazardous substances and take appropriate precautions. In addition, specific regulations cover particular areas, for example: ll Chemicals (Hazard Information and Packaging for Supply) Regulations 2002 – require suppliers to classify, label and package dangerous chemicals and provide safety data sheets for them. ll Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1994 – cover safe installation, maintenance and use of gas systems and appliances in domestic and commercial premises.

Did you know? Up to 70 per cent of hairdressers suffer from skin damage caused by water and chemicals used at work.

Find out more The Health and Safety Executive’s job is to protect people against risks to health and safety at work. Check out the HSE’s website for lots of information.

Over to you Health and safety at work How do the regulations listed above relate to your own work experience? Which ones do you think are most relevant to you? Explain why. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE

Check it out A health and safety poster

Local council registrations Businesses offering hair and beauty treatments are required to register with their local council. This will usually mean a visit from the environmental health team to make sure that the premises are safe, clean and suitable for the nature of the services that will be offered. For some treatments, both the premises and the person offering them must be registered under the Local Government Miscellaneous Provisions Act 1982. The services that require this registration are: ll acupuncture ll tattooing ll semi-permanent tattooing ll skin piercing

1. Why is it important for employers and employees to follow the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974? 2. Which three regulations do you think are the most important to your line of work? 3. Visit the Health and Safety Executive website and download and print off the Health and Safety at Work Poster. Which regulations would protect hairdressers against skin damage?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Workplace policies and procedures 1 Introduction

Starting point Who do you think is responsible for making sure that the workplace runs well and is a safe and comfortable place in which to work?

As well as following the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974, your workplace will have its own policies or codes of practice for keeping employees and the general public safe. In this section, you will learn about some of these.

Employer and employee responsibilities Both employer and employee have a duty to ensure that the workplace is comfortable, warm, safe and clean.

Fire policies

All workplaces must, by law, carry out a fire risk assessment (see page 25) and yearly fire drill. Weekly tests are essential to ensure the fire alarm works, and staff must be trained to evacuate the building. To prevent a fire breaking out, you should: ll leave all doors unlocked wherever possible

Jargon buster Risk assessment making a check of possible unsafe or harmful things that could happen Flammable easily able to catch fire

ll keep flammable products away from heat ll report anything that you think may be a fire hazard ll do not block doorways and exits ll do not smoke inside the premises ll do not warm towels on electric or gas heaters. It is important to know the nearest escape route. Escape routes should have large print or illuminated exit signs. All workplaces must have working fire-fighting equipment that is easy to access. Unless you have had training, it is best not to try to put out the fire yourself as you could put yourself and others at risk. Very small fires can be put out using a fire blanket or a bucket of sand.

Over to you Is the first aid box fully stocked? During your work experience, check the contents of the first aid box. After your work experience, collate your findings in your group and show the results as a bar chart, to see which businesses had a fully stocked first aid box.

First aid First aid is the initial help given to someone who has hurt themselves or become ill, given before emergency medical help arrives. If you’re at an accident or a medical emergency, you should: ll stay calm ll look for continuing danger both to the casualty and yourself ll decide whether to call for emergency help ll listen to the person and talk quietly to them ll keep the person warm but do not allow them to get too hot. First aid does not involve:

Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT

ll giving medicines or tablets

PLTS Links: IE, TW

The Health and Safety Regulations 1981 state that there should be a member of staff who is trained in first aid. Once trained, the person will be qualified for three years, after which they will need to re-train.

ll moving a person who has fallen and who might have broken bones.

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Hot and cold running water Water is vital for cleaning hands and tools, the room and the treatments. There must be a constant supply of hot and cold running water, and each treatment area should have its own sink. Don’t: ll leave taps running ll flush semi-solid materials or liquids down the sink ll tip chemicals, solvents or cleaning agents into the sink. Do report immediately to your supervisor if you see: ll a blocked sink – to avoid it overflowing ll water that is discoloured as it comes out of a tap ll leaks, loose taps or cracked pipes.

Lighting Lighting affects the atmosphere of the business. The wrong lighting can have a disastrous effect on how visitors and employees feel. ll Make sure the light is bright enough for you to see clearly. The contents of a first aid box

ll Make sure the light is not so bright that you become disorientated. ll Report flickering or faulty lights to your supervisor.

Heat and ventilation The ideal working temperature is between 16 – 20°C. The level of moisture in the air should be between 30 and 70 per cent. The most efficient heating system for a salon is thermostatically controlled gas central heating. Ventilation ensures circulation of fresh air to create a pleasant and healthy atmosphere. Methods of ventilation include extractor fans, windows and doors, air vents and flues.

Illnesses spread

Over to you The perfect lighting In a small group, find out the typical jobs and treatments carried out in the six hair and beauty industries and the ideal types of lighting required for each. Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE

Inadequate ventilation and fresh air

Jargon buster Flue a pipe used to remove smoke, gas or heat from a fire

Smelly and stuffy atmosphere The effects of poor ventilation

Build up of treatment fumes

Check it out 1. What are workplace policies? 2. List three responsibilities that you have to prevent a fire. 3. What could happen if a workplace has poor ventilation? 17

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Workplace policies and procedures 2 Jargon buster Cross-infection spreading of an infection from one person to another

Top tip How to wash your hands:

Cleaning, sterilising and disinfecting tools Workplace hygiene is essential for a safe environment. Infections can easily be passed from person to person via direct or indirect contact – this is known as cross-infection. Direct contact occurs when an infection passes from one person to another through touching the skin, sneezing, coughing or breathing. Indirect contact occurs when infection passes from one person to another through an unclean object, such as a towel or bedding.

1. Wet your hands with warm, running water and apply liquid soap or use clean bar soap.

Preventing the spread of bacteria

2. Lather well.

Regular cleaning using warm, soapy water removes dirt and reduces the growth of germs and bacteria. You can wash your hands with soap and water or use an alcohol-based hand sanitiser.

3. Rub your hands vigorously together for 15–20 seconds. 4. Scrub all surfaces, including backs of hands, wrists, between fingers and under fingernails. 5. Rinse well. 6. Dry your hands thoroughly with a disposable towel. 7. Use a paper towel to turn off the tap.

Cleaning

Disinfection This is cleaning suitable for surfaces such as trolleys and equipment. It reduces the number of germs and bacteria so that they are not harmful. Most disinfectant solutions are alcohol- or bleach-based.

Sterilisation Sterilisation kills germs and bacteria and is used for tools and equipment as well as surfaces. Methods are dry heat, steam sterilisation or sterilisation fluids.

Safe and hygienic waste disposal Many treatments generate waste that could be contaminated: for example, piercing and shaving. An accidental skin cut with scissors or blood spotting from waxing could occur, so another method of waste disposal should be provided. Treatments which involve inserting a probe, such as epilation, need all used probes to be disposed of in a sharps box and then incinerated.

What not to do in the workplace Smoking, alcohol and drugs

The workplace must be free of smoke, drugs and alcohol. Alcohol and drugs affect a person’s ability to use equipment and products safely and to judge dangers. They can also affect their personality, which may be upsetting for clients and staff. Clients under the influence of alcohol or drugs may have an unfavourable reaction to products or treatments. The smell of cigarettes can cling to clothing, breath and body, which is unpleasant for the client, who may not re-book. A client who smokes will need to follow the salon’s non-smoking guidelines.

Washing hands helps reduce germs and bacteria

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Food and drink Food and drink should only be consumed in a designated area such as a staff room. There should be a refrigerator to keep food cool. It is unprofessional for staff to be seen eating and drinking and is unhygienic as particles of food can become a breeding ground for germs and bacteria.

Posture and musculo-skeletal disorders Posture is important because many treatments require you to stand, bend or use the same muscles for long periods of time. It is important to make regular checks and corrections to your posture.

Repetitive strain injury (RSI) This is a common posture or musculo-skeletal disorder caused by repeated action of the same joint or muscle: for example, through the overuse of scissors or a computer. It can affect the muscles, tendons and nerves in the arms, hands and upper back. Good posture and limiting repetitive work can help prevent or halt RSI. Stretches, strengthening exercises, ergonomically designed facilities and massages can reduce muscle tension and help heal existing disorders. The following symptoms may indicate the onset of RSI: ll recurring pain in neck, shoulders, upper back, wrists or hands

Jargon buster Musculo-skeletal to do with the muscles and bones Ergonomically designed designed for maximum comfort, ease of use and safety Hazardous dangerous, unsafe, harmful

ll tingling, numbness, coldness or loss of sensation ll loss of strength of grip and fatigue.

Prevention and treatment of RSI ll Check your posture and position when working. The head and back should form a straight line from the ears to the pelvis; the shoulders and head should not be hunched. ll Take regular breaks. ll Keep in good shape, with regular aerobic exercise, adequate sleep, drinking enough water, and not smoking. ll Make sure your wrists are in line with your fingers during treatment and not at an angle from each other.

Top tip If you see something that could endanger the health and safety of yourself and others, report it immediately to senior staff.

Manufacturer’s instructions Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Reputable manufacturers test their products and equipment thoughly, but you must use them safely in the correct way. Instructions are usually printed on the side of the product/equipment or in an accompanying leaflet. Failure to follow instructions can result in: ll risks of injury or illness due to misuse ll the product or equipment not working properly.

Check it out

Health and safety symbols The symbols below show at a glance how a chemical is hazardous and must, by law, appear on products that contain dangerous chemicals.

      Toxic

Corrosive

Explosive

Harmful

Flammable

Oxidising

1. List three ways in which infection or cross-infection can occur. 2. Why shouldn’t you eat in the workplace? 3. What does RSI stand for?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Personal standards, presentation and conduct Introduction

Starting point Does your appearance have an effect on your health?

Employees in the hair and beauty sector are expected to follow general standards of presentation and hygiene, but individual employers may have their own rules for presentation and hygiene over and above the usual. Employees on work experience or starting new jobs will be expected to comply with individual employers’ dress codes. These guidelines help to set the standard of the workplace as well as maintain its image, plus the type of clients that it wishes to attract. This section will introduce you to the importance of maintaining high standards each and every day.

Standards of personal presentation A good first impression is vital as it will affect the way in which a client views you and the business.

Clothing This must be clean every day, as smells from food, the environment and smoke can cling to the material, which clients may find off-putting. If it is not possible to launder a uniform every day, it should not be worn to and from the workplace but changed into on arrival then changed out of when it is time to leave.

Footwear The style of footwear will depend on the industry. Many expect employees to wear sensible, enclosed, low-heeled shoes for health and safety. Dropping sharp tools and implements could result in injury to the foot if open-toed shoes are worn.

Accessories Excess jewellery could scratch clients while carrying out treatments. Small, discreet pieces of jewellery are acceptable.

Hairstyle This very much depends on the workplace. On visiting a hair salon, you might expect to see unusual hair styles and colours; however, if you were to visit a spa, the opposite would be true.

Make-up and nails The hair and beauty industries normally expect employees to wear a light day make-up, although some employers may expect more. While nail varnish is usually not allowed in the beauty and spa industries, a nail technician would be expected to wear it. Make sure that make-up and nails stay perfect throughout the day.

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Standards of personal hygiene The hygiene of your hair, skin, nails, teeth and body must be perfect, as treatments and services involve close contact with clients. The table below shows what happens if you don’t take care of your personal hygiene. Part of body

Poor hygiene leads to...

Over to you

Teeth

Bad breath due to:

A uniform image

ll illness

Imagine that you are setting up your own hair and beauty business. You will need to come up with a brand image. Create a mood board that showcases your uniform design. Use swatches of material and colour as well as text to describe your choices and dress code. The design can be for any of the six industries.

ll poor dental hygiene ll eating foods that cause bad breath Hair

Smelly or oily hair: ll unwashed ll picked up odour of smoke or foods

Nails and hands

Body

Dirty nails and hands Chipped polish Uneven and split, so could scratch

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

Body odour

PLTS Links: IE, CT, SM

General impression of being dirty Skin

Not cleansed or exfoliated properly Make-up applied on top of stale make-up Make-up too thick

Top tip

Blocked pores Spots and oil Dry flaky skin Lacklustre due to lack of sleep Sluggish complexion due to poor diet

Buy a handbag-size bottle of mouthwash or take your toothbrush to work to freshen up your breath after lunch.

Personal conduct The good behaviour and conduct of all employees is essential to the smooth and safe running of a business. The poor conduct of one employee could reflect on each and every member of the business and on the visitors to it. Poor conduct could damage the business’ image as well as risking injury and the spread of infection. Poor impression of the business

Cross-infection

Injury to self and others

Check it out

Poor conduct

Verbal and written warnings from employer leading to dismissal

1. Why do you need to wash your uniform daily? A breakdown in team relationships

Impact of poor conduct on the business

Loss of business and reputation

2. What effect does good and poor personal presentation have on the business? 3. What are the causes of bad breath?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Lifestyle choices Introduction In order to benefit from lifestyle choices, they must be healthy ones. Poor choices will reflect on your health, happiness, abilities and mood.

Starting point What triggers you into choosing unhealthy lifestyle choices?

This section will cover the benefits of altering your lifestyle for the better. It looks at the impact of poor diet and lifestyle choices and how they affect your health, well-being and the ability to perform at work effectively and safely.

Benefits of a healthy lifestyle These six aspects of your lifestyle may affect your mental and physical health:

Fitness and exercise Regular exercise boosts metabolism and improves fitness. Exercise also releases endorphins which help us to feel happier and more positive. Just ten minutes of exercise a day will make a vast improvement to the strength and health of your heart and muscles.

Nutrition and diet

Jargon buster Endorphins substances released by the brain which are a natural painkiller Nutrients substances that provide nourishment

Find out more To find out more about stress, visit the following websites: • Health and Safety Executive • Directgov • Department for Business Innovation & Skills.

The body requires a certain amount of nutrients and vitamins to work effectively, along with regular energy from a healthy, balanced diet. Too many of the wrong foods will make us feel sluggish as well as causing us to put on excess weight. Too little healthy food will not provide us with enough energy to get through the day.

Picture this Food for thought Nicky works on the cosmetic counter at the department store every Saturday. She usually gets up too late to have breakfast, and instead grabs an apple on her way out the door. Today, when she arrived at work she was told that they were one member of staff short so everybody agreed to be flexible with their lunch breaks to help out. Normally, Nicky has the 12 o’clock lunch break slot. However, by the time her supervisor released her for lunch it was 2 o’clock and Nicky felt sick and dizzy. Her friend rushed out to buy her a chocolate bar because she said her blood sugar level was probably low. Nicky immediately felt better, with a renewed boost of energy. She washed it down with a coke, read a magazine and then went back to work. An hour later Nicky felt really tired and couldn’t be bothered to unpack the new deliveries, which resulted in her manager telling her off. 1. What was the first thing that Nicky should have done before leaving for work?

Top tip Not achieving a work-life balance can lead to increased stress and anxiety. Think about extra work before accepting it.

2. Nicky felt sick and dizzy, then full of energy, then tired. Why? 3. Could Nicky have eaten something better than a chocolate bar to give her energy throughout the rest of the day? 4. Discuss this scenario with your tutor and class group. Functional Skills Links: English

PLTS Links: IE, TW

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Oils, fats, sweets, cakes, crisps, etc Dairy (Milk, yoghurt, cheese, etc)

Meat, poultry, fish

Fruits and vegetables

Over to you Stress test Answer these questions to find out if you are stressed. 1. How often do you snap at people because of a bad temper? 2. Do you cry when things become too much?

Bread, cereal, rice, pasta, potatoes

3. Do you get headaches? 4. Do you forget things easily? 5. Do you have trouble sleeping?

The food triangle

Sleep patterns Good quality, uninterrupted sleep is vital. Our bodies need rest to recharge and regular patterns mean that our bodies don’t become confused about what time of day or night it is. How much sleep you need varies between people and ages. The main thing is that you follow the sleep pattern that enables you to manage a day’s school or work without feeling sleepy or irritable.

Stress and anxiety People react to stress in different ways. Long-term stress and anxiety can lead to illness, mood swings, loss of temper and the inability to cope. Relaxation and deep breathing techniques can help as can changing causes of stress such as ll eating on the run, or in a disorganised manner ll smoking, or drinking excessively ll rushing, hurrying, being available to everyone

6. Do you find it hard to concentrate? If you answered yes to more than two of the above questions, you might need to do some relaxation exercises. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE Lifestyle journal Choose one area of your life that you would like to make improvements to – it can be any of the six areas. Identify ways in which you think you could improve. Write a daily journal of your activities.

ll doing several jobs at once

Discuss your results and successes with your class group and tutor.

ll missing breaks, taking work home with you

Functional Skills Links: English

ll having no time for exercise and relaxation (Dealing with stress, Health and safety executive).

PLTS Links: SM, IE

Work-life balance You may have heard the saying ‘All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy’ – in other words, if you spend all of your time working or studying you will become boring. This may not be true for everyone, but too much work will certainly impact on your socialising and enjoyment of life. Many workplaces nowadays promote a work-life balance for their employees, as they recognise that if there is no balance, eventually the work will suffer.

Substance abuse We looked at the effects of smoking, alcohol and drugs in the workplace on page 18.

Check it out 1. How can your diet improve your performance at work? 2. What are some main causes of stress?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Occupational hazards and risk assessment Introduction

Starting point What is an occupational hazard?

Working in the hair and beauty industries is a relatively safe career choice. However, you still need to be aware of some potential problems. This section will look at the typical hazards that could occur and will help you to assess the risk they pose and show you how to deal with them.

Occupational hazards The hazards you are most likely to come across are shown in the diagram below, followed by the ways to avoid them.

Adverse skin conditions

Musculo-skeletal problems from poor posture or repetitive strain injury

Occupational hazards

Jargon buster Hazard something that could cause an accident or injury, such as the spillage of a product on the floor Risk the likelihood of a hazard causing harm, for example someone slipping on the spillage and twisting their ankle Allergies sensitivity to something that causes a reaction Asthmatic breathing difficulties Diagnosis identification of a disorder or illness Appliance electrical piece of equipment

Top tip

Skin sensitivity to products or treatments

Skin allergies – allergic reactions to products

Asthmatic symptoms from inhalation of fumes and chemicals

Hazard

Ways to avoid

Skin allergies and skin sensitivity

Avoid use of the product that causes the problem

Musculoskeletal problems

Improve posture

Asthmatic conditions

Put lids back on powders immediately

Carry out patch tests prior to using something new

Improve your grip technique when using tools and equipment Ensure area is well ventilated Wear a mask

Adverse skin conditions

Avoid treatments while these are present Check with GP to get diagnosis and treatment

Always be alert for new allergies and skin conditions. Early diagnosis may prevent the condition from affecting current work and future career plans.

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Carrying out a risk assessment PASSED Appliance ID:

Test Engineer:

Appliance ID:

Fail Date:

Re-Test Due:

Test Engineer:

FUSE AMP RATING

ELECTRICAL SAFETY TEST

ELECTRICAL SAFETY TEST

Employers must list all products, including cleaning agents, that they have in the workplace because the products could be flammable or poisonous, cause irritation, give out strong fumes or be dangerous if breathed in.

DO NOT USE

The hair and beauty industries use a range of chemicals which must be used, stored, handled, maintained and disposed of safely. This is covered by the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations, which require employers to assess the risks from all harmful products and take appropriate precautions.

This appliance has failed a safety check and is unsafe to use

Hazardous substances

FAIL

Test Date:

In the workplace many things can cause accidents, injury or illness if they are not recognised and made safe. As an employee, you will need to spot and report potential accidents (hazards) so that they don’t become a problem to you, the visitors and other staff.

PAT test stickers

An example of a COSHH table

Product

Hazard

Correct use

Storage

Disposal

Caution

Nail varnish remover

Inhalation of fumes, highly flammable

Replace bottle tops immediately, no smoking/naked flames nearby

Store away from direct heat in a cupboard, lids fully on and bottle upright

Do not incinerate

If spilt, clear up immediately as it can dissolve plastics and mark trolleys and equipment

Portable appliance testing (PAT) Every piece of portable electrical equipment must be PAT tested annually by a qualified person. If it is safe to use, a green pass sticker, with the date of the test and the date of next scheduled test written clearly on it, will be placed on the appliance. If the appliance is unsafe, a red sticker will be placed on it indicating that it must not be used.

Assessing risks All businesses must carry out regular risk assessments to ensure that the working environment remains safe. A risk assessment is a careful examination of the workplace and work carried out that could cause harm to people. A judgement of how significant each of the risks is is made, along with appropriate recommendations to reduce those risks.

Check it out 1. What does COSHH stand for? 2. How do you know if an appliance is safe to use? 3. What must you do if you spot a hazard?

A sample risk assessment form

Hazard

Who and how might be harmed

Control measures

Further instruction

Risk level 1–5 (5 being highest)

Recommendations and action

Deliveries in reception

Visitors, clients, staff tripping over

Place parcels in the store cupboard immediately

Contact suppliers with instructions for deliveries

3

Inform all employees

Loose wires on steamer

Clients/staff getting electric shock

Contact electrician immediately

Remove and put in locked cupboard

5

Inform all employees

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about basic health and safety. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Health and safety legislation Workplace policies and procedures Personal standards, presentation and conduct Benefits of a healthy lifestyle Occupational risks and hazards Carrying out a risk assessment Health and safety terminology

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

Unit 1 questions

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

1.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

2.

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your health and safety knowledge. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your abilities to follow and maintain safe practices in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in health and safety processes. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

Health and safety legislation

Step 2 – Take action I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again. I will ask my tutor/practitioner/ teacher for help. Step 3 – Review again

3.

Workplace policies and procedures

Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1?

1.

Am I more confident with the unit?

2.

Am I ready to move on?

3.

Self-assessment questions Under each of the headings opposite try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples. 1. Do I understand essential requirements of health and safety? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions, you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away, you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

Personal standards, presentation and conduct 1. 2. 3.

Benefits of a healthy lifestyle 1. 2. 3.

Occupational risks and hazards 1. 2. 3.

Carrying out a risk assessment 1. 2. 3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 1 is Internal.

Top tip

Your tutor/teacher/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, which shows your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief.

1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses.

Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll key health and safety legislation, policies and procedures ll occupational health hazards, their avoidance, early recognition and reporting ll the standards of personal presentation and hygiene typically expected in hair and beauty ll the impact of lifestyle choices on personal health, wellbeing and the ability to perform effectively and safely at work

2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to research into business processes and systems in relation to the hair and beauty sector. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your tutor/teacher/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

ll health and safety risk assessments in a hair and beauty environment ll safe working practices, collaborating with others to work towards a safe hair and beauty business

Ideas for projects

Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered.

ll The ideal environment for the growth of bacteria

You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

ll Sleep deprivation and its effect on our mind and body ll Investigation into the loss of working hours through stress at work in the UK ll Research into repetitive strain injury

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UNIT 1 SAFE AND HEALTHY WORKING PRACTICES IN HAIR AND BEAUTY

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Identify the key health and safety legislation, policies and procedures applicable to all employees and a specific service

Research the health and safety websites to find out about the Health and Safety at Work Act, then match the legislation to the hair and beauty sector to identify which ones are relevant

Identify a wide range of key health and safety legislation, policies and procedures applicable to employees and services

Carry out a health and safety risk assessment in a hair and beauty environment

Find out all of the potential risks and hazards

Have carried out a thorough and detailed risk assessment in a hair and beauty environment without help from your teacher/tutor/ practitioner

Follow safe working practices, collaborating with others to work towards a safe hair and beauty business

Work as a team to maintain a safe and healthy working environment

Recognise occupational health hazards, their avoidance, early recognition and reporting

Maintain methods of working that reduce the risk of bad backs through poor posture or repetitive strain injury because of incorrect use of tools and equipment

Research the steps required to carry out risk assessments

Support each other and work at ways to keep each team member safe and free from injury or illness through cross-infection

Show that you have followed safe working practices without guidance from your teacher/ tutor/practitioner and that you collaborated effectively within a team to work towards a safe hair and beauty business Show that you recognise a wide range of hazards with accuracy

Get into a good habit of prevention rather than cure and report any signs of health hazards to supervisors immediately before they become worse Explain the standards of personal presentation and hygiene typically expected in hair and beauty

Investigate the different industries and what is expected of their staff in terms of presentation and hygiene and how the employers maintain high standards among staff

Provide a detailed and thorough explanation of the standards of personal presentation and hygiene expected

Explain the impact of lifestyle choices on personal health, wellbeing and the ability to perform effectively and safely at work

Think about times when perhaps you have not followed a good lifestyle and the effect it had on your mind, mood, body and approach to work.

Explain in detail, the impact of lifestyle choices on a broad range of personal health and wellbeing aspects.

How did or could you improve?

Be able to reflect in depth on how lifestyle choices could affect the ability of performing safe and effective work

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 2 The world of hair and beauty

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Introduction There is much more to the hair and beauty sector than first meets the eye. It is an industry that spans the globe and links with many other different sectors on various levels. It is an industry that continues to grow and thrive year on year, even in periods of downturn in global economic growth. It is a highly skilled industry with a well-trained and dedicated workforce. It is also an industry that offers exciting and diverse career opportunities as it is constantly evolving. This unit will help you to understand the global nature of the hair and beauty industries and the diversity of the sector. The industries are influenced by other sectors such as fashion, media, global trends and celebrity icons, and it is important to have an understanding of these influences. You will also explore some of the iconic developments in the industry and how environmental issues and sustainability impact on it. Communication and employability skills are vital for anyone wanting to work in the hair and beauty industries, and you will develop a greater understanding of some of the key aspects of communication and the skills that improve employability, as well as the role of promoting products and services. You will then explore the career opportunities and progression options that are available within the hair and beauty industries and the skills and qualifications required for them. Page number

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section ...

LO1:

Global nature of the hair and beauty industries

32 – 33

Economic influences

34 – 35

Business processes and procedures

36 – 37

Social, ethical and environmental issues

38 – 39

Communication with customers

40 – 41

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Promoting and selling

42 – 43

Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Job roles and career pathways

44 – 45

When you are finding out about the global nature of the industries

Employability skills

46 – 47

Understand a range of information about the industry environment in which hair and beauty businesses operate

LO2: Know the social, ethical, environmental and sustainability issues relevant to the hair and beauty sector LO3: Understand how hair and beauty businesses communicate with their customers and suppliers LO4: Know the career opportunities that exist within the hair and beauty sector and related industries LO5: Know the employability skills required within the hair and beauty sector and related industries

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 5 History of hair and beauty in society Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

When you are exploring the economic factors When you are investigating communication with customers When you are finding out about different job roles and careers

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Starting point The hair and beauty industries turn over more than £5 billion each year.

Global nature of the hair and beauty industries Introduction Hair and beauty is a rapidly growing sector. As a professional, you will be expected to understand the different types of businesses, the related sectors, their links and interdependencies. In this section, you will find out about the size and structure of the hair and beauty industries including their financial turnover and different types. You will also explore the links and interdependencies with related sectors worldwide.

Industries Jargon buster Interdependencies two or more things that depend on each other

Six industries make up the hair and beauty sector, with hairdressing as the largest sector and African-Caribbean businesses the smallest. Spa therapy

Hairdressing

Barbering

400 businesses

35,704 businesses

2,967 businesses

Financial turnover amount of money taken

Hair and Beauty industries

African-Caribbean

Nail services

Beauty therapy

302 businesses

1,512 businesses

14,040 businesses

Over to you Business in your area In small groups, find out how many hair and beauty businesses there are in your area and what type of services they offer. Collate your information using graphs and charts to create a business profile for your area. Use the information to identify: ll any gaps in the market for potential new businesses ll any service areas that have reached saturation point. Present your findings to your peers for discussion and compare and justify your business profile. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

The industries employ over 245,000 people, most of them female between the ages of 16–24. The current ratio of female to male is 10:1. Financial turnover is around £5.25 billion annually including services and retail sales.

Types of businesses ll Salons – the general term for the type of business you would expect to see on the high street, which could be a hairdresser, barber, beauty or nail salon. Salons are often individually owned businesses but could be part of a small chain or larger franchise. ll Spas – often attached to hotels but could be separately run retreats. They focus on treatments to improve health and wellbeing, although most will also offer general hair, beauty and nail services. ll Health clubs – may be associated with a hotel, but the growth of the health and fitness industry has led to many large gyms and exercise centres that also offer hair and beauty services. ll Product sales – the most successful hair and beauty businesses use professional products exclusive to the industry, and a business has developed around the companies that manufacture, sell and

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

distribute these. These companies usually offer business support and sales training. ll Education – many companies offer training and education to hair and beauty professionals for continuing professional development.

Business structure and size The structure and size of a business can vary considerably, depending on the type of business, the ownership and how successful it is. Owner/manager

Senior therapist/ stylist/ nail technician

Receptionist

Therapist/stylist/ nail technician

Junior therapist/ stylist/ nail technician

Group/chain

Franchise

Example of a business structure

Freelance

Over to you

Type of business ownership

Types of business

ll Hair and beauty suppliers provide things like towels, nail files, cotton wool and tissues.

In small groups, find out about the different types of ownership of hair and beauty businesses and explain the positive and negative factors of each. Then investigate the hair and beauty businesses in your area and try to identify one business for each type of ownership. Use ICT to present your findings for discussion.

ll Product and equipment manufacturers sell items such as couches, manicure chairs, hairdryers and professional retail products.

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

ll Insurance companies provide insurance, which is required by law for premises and staff.

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Independent

Partnership

Concession

Links and interdependencies The hair and beauty industries depend on and support many other industries.

ll Exhibition organisers provide opportunities for businesses to network and promote themselves. ll Fashion and retail industries display the latest hair, nail and makeup styles and help to set and develop trends. ll Learning providers support and encourage growth and higher standards in the industries through ongoing education and training. As a professional working in the hair and beauty sector, you may also work closely with the following related industries: ll health and fitness ll sports therapy ll complementary and alternative medicine and therapies ll paramedical treatments. This may be through referral of customers for treatment, a business partnership or by career progression into these sectors.

Check it out 1. Which of the six industries has the largest number of businesses? 2. Give three possible types of business ownership. 3. Name three different industries linked to the hair and beauty sector and explain how they are linked.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Economic influences Introduction

Starting point How do you think the economy influences the hair and beauty industries?

The economy influences the hair and beauty industries in many ways. Factors such as exchange rates and employment rates can affect the manufacturers of products and equipment as well as impact on how much money customers have to spend on products and services. In this section, you will find out about the economic factors that influence the demand for hair and beauty products. You will be expected to have an understanding of how the economy affects the industries, including the development of iconic products and equipment and manufacturing advances.

Economic factors Global and national

Jargon buster Economy the system used by a country to manage its trade, industry and money Exchange rates the cost of buying or selling currency Disposable income money left over after taxes and living expenses have been paid Revenues income Sustainability not harming the environment

The health of the UK’s economy influences how consumers and product and equipment manufacturers spend money. International trading means that the global economy directly affects the national economy. Exchange rates can also have an influence on the hair and beauty industries, as products and equipment are bought from local, national and international sources.

Employment and disposable income These factors directly influence the demand for hair and beauty services. A healthy economy means good levels of employment. If people are employed, they have more money to spend on non-essentials, such as hair and beauty services and products.

Iconic products, equipment and manufacturing developments Retinol This highly active ingredient is used in skin care products and is prescribed in stronger forms by dermatologists. It is used to treat acne and has also been found to improve the effectiveness of anti-ageing formulations. This has led to an increase in demand for products that contain it. The anti-ageing product market is one of the most lucrative in the hair and beauty sector.

Micro-dermabrasion equipment

Did you know? The hair and beauty industries are still growing even though the global economy is currently in decline.

This equipment is used by beauty therapists to perform non-surgical skin resurfacing. Micro-dermabrasion is recommended for: ll fine lines and wrinkles ll sun-damaged skin ll acne-prone skin ll blackheads and whiteheads ll hyper-pigmentation ll oily, dry or patchy skin. The treatment is popular with celebrities and is a good example of how iconic developments influence the demand for services.

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Over to you Iconic developments

Micro-dermabrasion treatment

Spray tanning This method of tanning has improved the results achievable and cut down on application times. Another favourite with celebrities, it has been one of the sector’s most recent trends, with tanning salons opening at a rapid rate and creating strong revenues.

Hair gels and mousses Most consumers use or have used some kind of hair styling product, and the market continues to grow as they are considered essentials and not luxuries. Innovative marketing techniques and celebrity endorsements all contribute to the growth in sales of these products.

Air brushing This equipment revolutionised the nail art industry and led to a growth in the number of people having nail art and, in turn, nail extensions. The skill and detail involved is reflected in the cost, and its popularity has led to many new nail businesses opening as well as creating additional revenue for services in existing salons.

Hair straighteners The use of straighteners in hair salons has considerably reduced the time it takes to straighten hair and has widened the use of the service, leading to increased revenue. However, it is the retail sector that has seen the biggest increase, as new businesses have built up around the sales of hair straighteners.

Manufacturing developments ll Customer demand As the hair and beauty industries continue to grow, so do the demands of the customer, who expects more and more with each new product or equipment development. Manufacturers need to meet customers’ demands in both the volume produced and the advances made. ll Sustainability Manufacturers of hair and beauty products have had to develop sustainable ways to operate as customers actively seek out businesses that don’t harm the environment. Sustainability has become an enterprise of its own, with businesses being developed to support it. ll Packaging Customers actively look for and expect companies to use packaging that is ethically produced and is environmentally friendly. This has become a growing business in its own right. ll Computerised manufacture Mass production and reduced labour costs have brought down the cost of goods and made them more accessible.

In small groups, choose one of the iconic developments described and find out about the different brands of products or equipment available. Compare the brands to find out about the following differences: ll price ll packaging/name ll advertising ll customer support. Identify which brand you prefer and explain why. Use ICT to present your findings, including images, graphs and charts. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Find out more You can find out more about sustainability at these websites: • Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs • Directgov • Business Link.

Check it out 1. How does the health of the economy affect employment and disposable income? 2. Name two iconic products, pieces of equipment or manufacturing developments and explain how they have influenced the demand for hair and beauty services. 3. How do sustainability issues influence the hair and beauty industries? 35

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Business processes and procedures Introduction

Starting point How many people do you think are involved in producing one product?

The use of professional products and product sales are a vital part of any successful hair and beauty business. It is important for you to have a good understanding of how products are developed and the benefits of using and retailing a professional range. In this section, you will find out about the supply chain processes and functions for product development. This will include the process of product development and the supply, distribution and delivery of products to customers.

Product development Market research

Jargon buster Retailing selling of products and services to consumers Target market who the product is aimed at Forecasting predicting what might happen Wholesale price how much a manufacturer charges for a product Retail price how much a business charges for a product Profit money left over after expenditure

The first stage of product development is to find out if there is a market for the product: that is, if anyone would want to use and buy the product. This research covers everything from the type of product to its use and formulation, the packaging, price and target market. This can be a lengthy process, taking 1–3 years on average! Product companies use various techniques to gather this information, including: ll surveys ll focus groups ll personal interviews ll observation of similar products ll field trials.

Tests and trials Once the market research is complete and a product has been formulated, it will undergo many clinical tests to ensure it is effective and safe. At this stage, products may be modified to improve performance; they may even be removed from production altogether! Packaging durability

Effects on skin

Effects on nails

Exposure to water

Clinical tests

Exposure to air

Exposure to heat

Effects on hair

Exposure to cold

Products undergo a range of clinical tests

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

When clinical testing is complete, a small sample batch of the product will be produced and distributed to gain customer feedback. Getting to this point costs hundreds of thousands of pounds, but it is only now that the final decision is made about whether or not a product will go into production.

The manufacturing chain

Product development

Manufacturing a product usually involves various businesses and processes, although some larger product companies may provide most of the functions themselves. Advertisers

Suppliers

Over to you

Distributors

In pairs, choose one product that is commonly used in any of the six hair and beauty industries. Find out about the manufacture and distribution of the product. ll Where is the product manufactured? ll What does it cost to manufacture?

The manufacturing chain

ll How is it distributed? Laboratories

Packaging manufacturers

Sources of ingredients/materials

Key businesses and functions in the manufacturing chain

Once a product is manufactured, it may be sold to a distributor, who then sells it to the hair and beauty business, which retails it to the customer.

Supply and distribution You may work for a company that manufactures products in another country and distributes them all over the world. Larger companies may have more than one manufacturing site; smaller companies may manufacture and distribute from one local site. ll National/European manufacturers distribute from one or more central point(s) all over the country and Europe. ll Local manufacturers distribute to one country or area only. Manufacturers use forecasting techniques to ensure production levels are right for demand. These must be in line with any promotions or seasonal changes that may affect sales.

Service delivery ll Costs Deliveries are usually free for large orders. The difference between the wholesale price and the retail price is called the ‘mark-up’ and can be as high as 65 per cent! From a business perspective, this is great news as the mark-up is the profit the hair and beauty business makes on the sale of each product. ll Reliability Successful businesses rely on products being delivered on time and in perfect condition. A company that is unreliable will quickly lose customers and its reputation. ll Efficiency Orders should be processed quickly without mistakes and invoicing should be correct. Manufacturers should have efficient returns and complaint procedures. Remember – you could be dealing with a company in another country! ll Manageability Product manufacturers need to have smooth and efficient processes in place to ensure the highest standards are maintained throughout the world.

ll What is the retail cost? ll How many other companies are involved in the production? Use ICT to present your findings to your peers for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW Professional processes In small groups, choose two professional product companies and investigate the service delivery offered by each. Compare the following aspects: ll Percentage mark-up ll Delivery charges and times ll Returns and complaints procedures. Use ICT to present your findings for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Which are the key processes in product development? 2. How do product companies manage supply and demand? 3. What are the key aspects of service delivery? 37

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Social, ethical and environmental issues Introduction

Starting point What are you doing to reduce your carbon footprint?

Today’s society is very different from 20 years ago. The world has become a smaller place as we have greater access to information, and social, ethical and environmental issues affect us on a global scale. In this section, you will find out how factors such as demographic change and trends in fashion and body image impact on the hair and beauty industries. You will also learn about sustainability and environmental issues such as recycling, waste disposal and energy conservation as well as ethical issues such as fair trade and animal testing.

Social ll Demographic change This can affect the hair and beauty industries. Currently, the population with the greatest disposable income is aged 45–63. This has led to an increase in anti-ageing treatments and in paramedical treatments, such as injectables and face peels.

Jargon buster Ethical a way of behaving that is fair and decent Demographic change changes in population size, structure and distribution Paramedical treatments advanced cosmetic services such as Botox Discrimination treating a person differently

ll Fashion trends The media greatly influence the hair and beauty industries. The growth of celebrity culture and access to the internet means that new fashion trends are well publicised – the latest trends can sweep across the globe in less than a day, often leaving those working in the industries struggling to keep up as everyone wants to re-create the latest look! ll Youth culture Young people today have more access to information than ever before. They want to keep up with the latest trends. Hair and beauty businesses have seen a big increase in the number of young people buying services and products. ll Trends in body image and health These are also influenced by the media and celebrity culture. As a society, we have become more health conscious, which has led to an increase in spas and health clubs offering relaxing treatments. There are also negative effects from the constant pressure to conform to certain body images shown in the media.

Madonna is known for setting the latest trends

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Ethics ll Confidentiality The Data Protection Act 1998 protects customers’ personal information. You must behave professionally and never discuss a customer’s personal information with others. ll Embracing diversity We are a multi-cultural society with a diverse workforce. There is legislation to prevent discrimination – you need to be aware of this when working with the public. ll Child protection Legislation protects minors and you should be familiar with the law when treating customers under the age of 16. If they want to have a hair or beauty service, they must have written consent or a parent/guardian must be present. ll Fair trading Businesses that sell products and services must comply with fair trading laws that aim to protect the customer as well as the business. It makes good business sense to treat customers well and to trade fairly. ll Animal testing European Union (EU) legislation bans animal testing for cosmetics, although it still takes place outside the EU. Many customers feel strongly about this issue and seek out products that are not tested on animals. ll Organic hair and beauty products These evolved as customers became more aware of ingredients and the use of chemicals and pesticides. Organic cosmetics are produced from natural ingredients and contain no artificial chemicals.

Environmental issues ll Consumption of resources This includes use of electricity and water as well as products and consumables. Hair and beauty businesses can be resource-heavy, especially where items are unable to be reused due to hygiene and cross-infection. Businesses should be aware of their consumption levels and aim to reduce them where possible. ll Waste disposal This can be quite high due to hygiene factors. Businesses should use biodegradable and environmentally friendly resources where possible. Regulations deal with the safe disposal of contaminated waste.

Sustainability ll Recycling Millions of tonnes of waste are disposed of every year and there are government initiatives to reduce waste and increase recycling locally, nationally and globally. You should know the recycling policy at your workplace and encourage employers to source recyclable products. ll Energy conservation This is an issue that affects everyone as the world’s energy resources are running out. Hair and beauty businesses should aim to reduce energy consumption where possible and to work with companies that do the same.

Find out more You can find out more about: diversity in the workplace by visiting the following websites: • Embracing Diversity • Directgov. You can find out about organic cosmetics and animal testing at: • About Organics • PETA • RSPCA.

Over to you Your environment In small groups, using the information in this section, devise a questionnaire to find out how environmentally friendly hair and beauty businesses in your area are. Collate and compare the information to try to identify: ll the most environmentally friendly business and why ll the least environmentally friendly business and why ll any areas you think could be improved on and how. Use ICT to present your findings to your peers for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, Maths, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Explain two of the social factors that impact on the hair and beauty industries. 2. Why should businesses behave in an ethical way? 3. What are the main environmental issues concerning the industries? 39

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Communication with customers Introduction

Starting point What do you think makes someone a good communicator?

Good communication skills are essential for anyone working in the hair and beauty industries. We can all communicate, but we don’t all do it well! Fortunately, communication is a skill, and that means it can be learned, improved and perfected. In this unit, you will learn about communicating with different types of people, such as customers and suppliers. You will also find out about the various ways of communicating within a hair and beauty business and the types of skills you should develop to improve your communication skills.

People Customers Our customers are the most important – and most frequent – people we communicate with. You will need to use a range of skills, as you will communicate with customers in many different ways. It is important to realise that communication isn’t always about talking. A first impression is formed in seven seconds – this means that your customers may have formed an opinion about you before you have even had a chance to speak! Ensure that you look and act the part!

Suppliers A successful business depends on reliable and efficient suppliers. You will need to communicate with suppliers in various ways and it is essential that you do this professionally and build a good relationship. A supplier needs your business, but a business cannot function without suppliers!

Media There are a variety of different ways to communicate in a hair and beauty business and you will need to become confident in them all to succeed.

Face-to-face communication This is the most common form of communicating in a hair and beauty business. You may be making an appointment, retailing products, meeting with suppliers, performing a service or helping with an enquiry. Be guided by the customer

Maintain eye contact

Smile

Use open body language

Face-to-face communication Choose appropriate topics

Use open questions

Respond to customer

Listen carefully

Key points to remember when communicating face to face

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Telephone This is the next most common form of communication in the industries and is often the first contact a potential customer may have with the business. A successful business should have a well-organised reception area with space for making appointments, taking messages and answering questions. Double check appointment and take a contact number

Use an answer phone during busy periods and ring back within an hour

Top tip Always ask customers for their email address when completing a consultation form.

Aim to answer after no more than four rings

Repeat information back to customer

Listen carefully

Have a pen and message pad by the phone

Smile when talking

Answer using your salon’s customer greeting

Key points to remember when communicating by phone

Email Frequently used for ordering from suppliers and invoicing, email is now becoming a popular way of communicating with customers. Some large spas have online booking services where customers can make their own appointments. The main ways that smaller businesses use email with their customers are: ll confirming appointments ll sending out marketing information/newsletters ll following up services or product purchases.

Publications A range of publications can be used to advertise products and services, from local newspapers and newsletters to trade magazines. Publications should be chosen to match your salon’s target audience. They are a great way to reach customers, but always ensure the advert is professional with no spelling mistakes!

Over to you Communicating with customers In pairs, visit a selection of hair and beauty businesses in your area and evaluate the communication skills of the staff that you meet. Identify what you consider to be good examples and poor examples and explain your reasons for each. Use what you have learned to help you improve your own skills and practise these through role-play. Present your information using ICT and demonstrate your role-play for feedback from your peers. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Internet A well-designed website is an excellent way to communicate with customers. A website should have clear professional images, all the service information and prices, your location and directions, opening times, any current offers, loyalty schemes, links to product companies and employee profiles.

Communication skills Part of developing good communications skills is being able to adapt how you communicate depending on your audience. This is where good listening skills play an important role as you will need to understand and mirror your audience as well as using appropriate language. For example, you may speak in a different way and use different words to an elderly customer than to a customer your own age. You may also need to adapt your communication depending on the level of understanding your customer has.

Check it out 1. How can you be sure to make a good first impression? 2. List the main methods of communication that hair and beauty businesses use and some advantages and disadvantages of each. 3. How can you be sure your communication suits your audience? 41

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Promoting and selling Introduction A successful hair and beauty business is effective at promoting the services it offers in order to build the business and encourage growth. However, services alone are not the only element of success; profits can also be increased through retailing products.

Starting point What makes you want to buy different things?

In this section, you will learn about various ways hair and beauty businesses promote and sell products and services. Although the key opportunity for retail is when a customer is having a service, there are many other ways of advertising and promoting products and services.

Media There are many ways of advertising, including magazines, newspapers, radio and cinema, mail shots, the internet, text messaging and email. The methods a business chooses will depend on the target market, the type of promotion and whether it is aimed at existing or new customers. These are the most inexpensive and effective of these methods: ll Mail shot This works very well as long as it is targeted – sent to existing or carefully selected customers and not given out randomly through a leaflet drop or handing out leaflets on the street.

Jargon buster Promoting advertising and drawing attention to a product or service Retailing selling products Target market a particular sector of your customers Commission a sum of money as a reward for selling goods

Find out more You can find out more about the laws on how businesses can use customers’ information for advertising and promoting at these websites: • Department for Business, Innovation & Skills • Information Commissioner’s Office

ll Internet This could be a business advertising through its own website or through other websites and links. A website is an excellent way to advertise your services and products. As well as providing key information about services, products and business opening times, other successful features include virtual tours, video diaries or clips of treatments to entice customers as well as product tutorials or question and answer forums to boost sales. ll Text messaging Many businesses use texts as confirmations or reminders of client’s appointments, or to inform them about special offers and promotions. This is an excellent way to keep in touch with customers, although you do need to have their permission to use their information in this way. ll Email This is another excellent and inexpensive method of contacting customers. Information can be sent about special offers and promotions or simply to keep customers informed about what’s happening in the business. Promotions and advertising can be made even more effective by targeting a certain market on the business database and sending as group emails. Once again, you will need customers’ permission to use their information in this way. Though it only allows you to reach existing customers, emails are easily forwarded to friends and colleagues!

Campaigns and promotions The aim of advertising campaigns and promotions is to increase awareness and to get customers’ attention. They can be designed to promote a particular product or service or the business in general. They need to be organised and planned well and should take place at least four times a year.

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Displays and posters Displays and posters can be used specifically to highlight an advertising campaign but are also used throughout the business for general promotion of products and services. Product companies provide these, but businesses could create their own as long as they are professionally made and presented.

Image courtesy of Dermalogica

UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Selling

Top tip

Recognising selling opportunities

Retailing can improve your salary as most businesses will pay you commission on the products you sell.

Successful hair and beauty businesses understand that selling opportunities occur with every client and during every service. You can recognise these opportunities by paying attention to the customer’s body language, listening carefully to their needs and suggesting appropriate solutions to their concerns.

Buying behaviour Customers who want to purchase products behave in a certain way, usually without realising it. Hair and beauty businesses that promote and sell effectively know how to spot this behaviour, and so maximise their selling opportunities. Uses open body language

Asks questions about the product

Picks up the product

Tries the product

The customer:

Spends time looking at the product

Nods their head

Reads the information on the packaging

Over to you Promotion and selling In small groups, investigate the types of promotion and technique used by hair and beauty businesses in your area. Use this information to develop your own promotional idea for a product or service, and create advertising materials that could be used for each of the main media. Present your materials to your peers for feedback. Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, RL, TW

Buying behaviour – what to look out for

Professional recommendation This is one of the key ways that businesses sell. Customers will trust professional hair and beauty practitioners who share and demonstrate professional knowledge about customers’ concerns and recommend solutions.

Closing the sale This is the last part of the retail process and often involves answering any questions the customer may have and overcoming any objections or concerns to help them reach the decision to purchase the product.

Check it out 1. Which are some of the most successful media for promoting and selling products and services? 2. In what ways could you recognise selling opportunities? 3. How would you recognise buying behaviour? 43

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Job roles and career pathways Introduction

Starting point Where could a Diploma in Hair and Beauty Studies take you?

Over to you Job roles and career pathways

Hair and beauty is a diverse and exciting sector to work in. In this section, you will find out what is involved in the different job roles and about the career pathways you could follow. You will also learn about the different training and qualifications and how to achieve them.

Job roles There are six main industries in the hair and beauty sector each with a general job role, as shown below. The skills and responsibilities required for each job role will vary depending on the employer. Job roles

Skills and responsibilities

Hairdresser

Cuts, styles and dresses hair, performs a range of colouring and perming techniques

Barber

Cuts and styles men’s hair, creates patterns in the hair using clipper techniques, shaving skills, performs a range of colouring and perming techniques

Beauty therapist

Nail treatments to feet and hands, hair removal techniques such as waxing and epilation, eye treatments such as tinting and shaping, make-up, advanced skin and body care treatments, massage

Massage therapist

Body massage techniques, remedial and advanced massage, reflexology, aromatherapy, Indian head massage

Spa therapist

Usually trained as a beauty therapist or massage therapist and in addition performs specialised treatments such as hydrotherapy, thalassotherapy, balneotherapy and heat treatments

In small groups, choose one job role to investigate further. Find out about the career pathways for staff in salons in your area and the roles and responsibilities for each level within your chosen job role. Then find out what skills employers expect staff to have at each level. Compare your findings and use the information to:

All roles are expected to carry out consultations and to recommend and retail products.

ll design your own career pathway

Career pathways

ll create job specifications with skills sets to go with each level.

Nail technician/ Nail treatments to feet and hands, nail extensions, practitioner nail repairs, nail art techniques

This is a progression route you could follow within a hair and beauty business. This may vary depending on the employer, the number of staff and the size of the business.

Use ICT to present your information for discussion with your peers.

ll Junior – may be newly qualified or about to complete training

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

ll Senior – fully qualified, with a minimum of one to two years’ employment experience

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

ll Consultant – fully qualified with at least three years’ employment experience

ll Assistant – not yet qualified or may be undertaking training

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Related industries There are many industries that link to the hair and beauty industries, creating a wide range of possible career opportunities. Related industry

Possible career opportunities

Leisure and tourism

Global spa managers, hotel managers, customer care-related employment

Training

Product and equipment training for professional companies

Further education

Teaching and training within hair and beauty, retail, customer services

Private trainers

Teaching and training in a private establishment

Fashion

Designer, buyer, make-up artist, nail artistry, film and television, photographic

Retail and distribution

Sales and marketing, account managers, counters, sales consultants

Health and fitness

Fitness instructor, sports therapist, physiotherapy

Apprenticeships ll VRQs ll NVQs Higher education ll Foundation Degrees

ll VRQs ll NVQs

Training pathways

Private trainers ll VRQs ll NVQs

Further education ll Diplomas ll Foundation Degrees ll A Levels

Qualifications

Over to you Study planning In pairs, find out about the training pathways in your area. For each training pathway, investigate the types of hair and beauty related qualifications that can be achieved. Compare the costs, time and range of qualifications, including the different levels, and use the information to plan out a course of study for yourself depending on where you might like to work within the industries. Try to include as many qualifications as possible! Use ICT to present your training plan and explain the reasons for your choices. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

ll Vocationally related qualifications (VRQs) provide a broad introduction to a particular vocational area. They improve knowledge, skills and understanding of areas of employment. ll National Vocational Qualifications (NVQs) are job-ready, competence-based qualifications that require you to demonstrate the skills and knowledge needed to do a job effectively. There are various levels of NVQ.

Check it out

ll Diplomas are work-related qualifications designed to support you with a range of options such as further study, work-ready training, going to university or a job with training.

1. Describe the key skills and responsibilities for two of the main job roles.

ll A Levels are usually the next stage of study after GCSEs or similar.

2. Which are the main training pathways?

ll Foundation Degrees are higher education qualifications that combine academic study with workplace learning, designed to equip you with the skills and knowledge that employers want.

3. Explain the different types of qualification. 45

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Employability skills Introduction

Starting point What skills do you have that make you employable?

Working in the hair and beauty industries requires a high level of training and knowledge that can take several years to achieve, but employers also look for personal and professional qualities, known as employability skills. In this section, you will find out about the skills and attributes that underpin employability, such as high standards of presentation and appearance, good communication skills, enthusiasm and having a business focus.

Personal standards Working in the industries will bring you into direct contact with the public – you will be an advert for your profession and your employer, so must behave, interact with others and present yourself well.

Appearance and personal hygiene ll Your hair should not hang on your face or touch the customer. ll Wear light day make-up – not too heavy or bold. ll Men should be clean shaven or have neat facial hair. ll Nails should be short and unpolished for beauty/spa/massage therapists, carefully polished for female hairdressers and nail technicians/practitioners; males should have short, clean nails. ll Wear fresh, ironed clothing/uniform, and clean, functional shoes.

You should always look professional

Find out more The websites below provide more information about the personal and professional standards expected by the hair and beauty industries. Such standards are known as codes of practice and ethics.

Avoid eating strongly flavoured foods

Clean teeth Fresh breath

Clean nails

No smoking

Personal hygiene

Clean hair

Light perfume or aftershave

Use deodorant/ antiperspirant

Freshly showered No body odour

Tips for personal hygiene

Personal conduct ll Always be polite to customers, colleagues and visitors. ll Choose appropriate topics of conversation. ll Do not use inappropriate language. ll Do not gossip or criticise colleagues or other professionals.

• Habia • The Guild of Professional Beauty Therapists • Federation of Holistic Therapists. 46 M02_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 46

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Professional standards Employers look for certain qualities in their staff and you should be aware of what these are so that you can identify any weak areas you may have and try to improve them. Communication and interpersonal skills are important for the hair and beauty industries. You should try to recognise how customers are feeling and respond to their needs. You can do this by talking to customers, asking questions and listening to their responses, reading body language and adjusting yours appropriately, and adapting your behaviour to suit your customer. An employer will also expect you to be reliable, honest and punctual, to respect confidentiality and to demonstrate good customer care.

Professional attitudes By practising the key attributes listed below, you will be able to develop a professional attitude. This involves being respectful to others and behaving in the right way, even when you don’t feel like it! ll Flexibility This is an essential quality in a customer-focused workplace. You may need to adapt to accommodate customers’ needs. ll Enthusiastic Employers want staff who are passionate about what they do. A person’s enthusiasm shows in every aspect of their work and is inspiring to others. ll Creativity This attribute is particularly important in hair, nails and make-up related job roles. ll Willingness to learn We can never know all there is to know! The industries are constantly evolving with new ideas and developments, and employers look for someone who is keen to learn. This involves accepting feedback and constructive criticism – it is the only way to progress! ll Team work Cooperating and working well with others is essential. You should support and respect your colleagues as you are all working towards the same goal – a successful business. ll Initiative You will need to be proactive and use your initiative, so look for things you can do to assist with the smooth running of a business or help colleagues out – don’t wait to be asked!

Business focus Employers look for staff who can contribute to the success of a business. People who are business focused think first about what they do for the business instead of what the business can do for them. To develop your business focus, you need to consider how you would achieve: ll continuous quality improvement ll customer satisfaction ll building customer loyalty ll repeat business ll maximising profitability.

Over to you Skills analysis In pairs, develop a skills analysis form using the professional standards and attitudes as headings. Devise a rating system. Rate your own performance and then your partner’s. Compare the findings, discussing any differences of opinion and identifying any areas for improvement. Create a development plan showing how you aim to improve any skills identified. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, RT, TW Business focus In small groups, choose two of the business focus points above and think about the ways you could contribute to achieving them in your workplace. Use ICT to present your information and explain your ideas. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, RL, TW

Check it out 1. Explain at least five of the expectations for personal standards 2. Explain the importance of professional standards and attitudes. 3. Why would an employer want you to have a business focus? 47

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about the world of hair and beauty. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Global nature of the hair and beauty business Economic influences

Business processes and procedures Social, ethical and environmental issues Communication with customers

Promoting and selling

Job roles and career pathways

Employability skills

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on your knowledge about the world of health and beauty. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge about the world of health and beauty in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development of your knowledge about the world of hair and beauty. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

Unit 2 questions Global nature of the hair and beauty industries 1.

Step 2 – Take action

2.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

3.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

Economic influences

Step 3 – Review again Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit?

1. 2. 3. Business processes and procedures

Am I ready to move on?

1.

Self-assessment questions

2.

Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples 1. Do I understand the key factors about the world of hair and beauty?

3. Social, ethical and environmental issues 1. 2. 3. Communication with customers 1. 2. 3.

2. What could I improve on?

Promotion and selling

3. Where shall I look for help?

1.

To each of the questions, you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away, you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

2. 3. Job roles and career pathways 1. 2. 3. Employability skills 1. 2. 3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 2 is External.

Top tip

The external assessment is carried out in exam conditions with an invigilator monitoring the taking of the exam. The external assessments will be scheduled in January and June. Your tutor/ practitioner/teacher will prepare you for external assessment by advising you on revision timetables, possible content and how to manage your time in the exam so that you have time to answer all questions.

1. With the help of your assessor/tutor/ teacher/practitioner, plan a revision timetable.

Within the external assessment you must demonstrate knowledge or understanding of: ll a range of information about the industry environment in which hair and beauty businesses operate ll the social, ethical, environmental and sustainability issues relevant to the hair and beauty sector ll how hair and beauty businesses communicate with their customers and suppliers ll the career opportunities that exist within the hair and beauty sector and related industries

2. Set aside time to revise in a quiet and calm atmosphere. 3. Set aside time to do practice papers to familiarise yourself with the external assessments. 4. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 5. Team up with a revision buddy so that you can help each other. 6. Seek support and guidance from your teacher regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

ll the employability skills required within the hair and beauty sector and related industries. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset, so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

The external assessment paper will state how many questions there are and the time allowed to complete the paper.

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UNIT 2 The world of hair and beauty

External assessment tips To gain a good pass mark in the assessment you need to: ll answer as many of the questions as you can – all if possible ll write clearly with good presentation ll manage your time so that you don’t miss out any questions ll read through the paper thoroughly before starting it ll look at the marks assigned to each question and what is expected of you before answering. When you have finished, take the time to read your answers back and attempt to do any questions that you missed out, weren’t sure about or could add to.

Ideas for projects l Research into one company’s environmental ethos l The future hair and beauty landscape l The place of higher education in hair and beauty l What makes a successful global hair and beauty company

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 3 The science of hair and beauty

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Introduction Hair and beauty requires learners to understand the fundamental workings of the body, including the muscles, bones and systems, plus the structure and functions of the skin, hair and nails. Knowledge of this assists in the understanding of the effects of each of the treatments and services carried out across the six industries. Understanding of these will also help to prevent potential problems by carrying out services on clients who should not be treated. This unit will also introduce you to the key factors influencing the health of the skin, nails and hair, as well as the effects of heat, light and water on these during treatment. Page number

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section …

LO1:

Anatomy and physiology of the skin

54 – 55

Anatomy and physiology of the hair

56 – 57

Anatomy and physiology of the nail

58 – 59

Anatomy of head, neck and shoulders

60 – 61

Anatomy of the arms, hands, legs and feet

62 – 63

Skin, hair and nail health

64 – 65

Know the fundamental aspects of the anatomy and physiology related to the hair and beauty sector

LO2: Understand the key factors that affect health and condition of the hair, skin and nails

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

LO3: Know the principles of the key services within the hair and beauty sector, the products used and their ingredients and their effects LO4: Be able to conduct a range of common testing procedures, and interpret and record test results LO5: Be able to select complementary colours to enhance skin tone, products and clothing within the hair and beauty sector

Key services in the hair and beauty sector

66 – 67

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Effects of products, heat, water and electricity

68 – 69

Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Common testing procedures

70 – 73

When you are choosing the services and products to apply to a model or client When you are suggesting colour to enhance skin, hair and nails When you are preparing and carrying out services and application of products

Principles of light and colour

74 – 75

When you are carrying out consultations using different communication skills When you are communicating the results of the tests with the client or model

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Anatomy and physiology of the skin Starting point Have you ever considered that the skin you see on the surface is only one layer out of five?

Introduction The skin is the largest organ of the body and is watertight and airtight. The skin is a barometer of our health and wellbeing. A healthy, glowing skin is achieved by eating a balanced diet, drinking plenty of fresh water and keeping well from within and free from illness.

Skin facts ll Skin is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the soles of the feet and palms of the hands. ll Facial skin is about 0.12 mm thick and body skin is about 0.6 mm thick. ll Each 6.5 cm2 of skin has an average of 10 hairs, 100 sweat glands and 15 sebaceous glands. ll The upper layer of the skin is comprised of dead skin cells; the inner layers are constantly moving up and replacing the outer layers that have been shed. ll Skin takes about 1–2 months to renew itself completely.

Did you know? The average adult has 2 m2 of skin when stretched out, which weighs approximately 3 kg and has approximately 300 million skin cells.

ll Skin dries out as we age.

General functions of the skin ll Protection – it protects the body from dirt, bacteria and injury. The body produces oil and this is secreted through the pores to keep the skin smooth, soft and free from cracks. ll Sense and feeling – the nerve endings in our skin pick up changes in temperature or pressure and alert us to pain. Messages go quickly to our brain so that we can respond. ll Excretion – some waste products and toxins are removed from the body through sweat.

Jargon buster Barometer measuring device Thermoreceptor a nerve ending in the skin that is stimulated by heat or cold Hypothalamus a gland in the brain responsible for homeostasis, which is the control of factors such as blood pressure, body temperature and body weight Insulator something that prevents or reduces the passage of heat, electricity or sound Gland a cell or group of cells that secretes substances

ll Secretion – the skin secretes a substance called sebum which is the natural lubricant that maintains the skin’s suppleness and softness. ll Temperature regulation – the body’s temperature should be maintained at approximately 36.8°C so that our vital organs can work effectively. Specialised nerve endings in the skin called thermoreceptors detect heat and cold. When changes in blood temperature are detected, impulses from nerve cells in the hypothalamus respond by cooling or heating the body. When the body cools, hairs stand on end and act as an insulator. We also start to shiver, which produces heat to increase the body’s temperature. When the body is too warm, the sweat glands produce sweat which helps to cool us. Temperature regulation Thermoreceptors detect that the body is too hot

Thermoreceptors detect that the body is too cold

Thermoreceptor interacts with the hypothalamus in the brain Body responds by either heating or cooling down

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Structure and location Epidermis The epidermis is the outmost layer of skin and consists of five layers. Latin name

English name

Function

Shape of cells

Stratum corneum

Horny layer

Creates a secure barrier

Flat, overlapping scale-like cells

Composed mainly of keratin Stratum lucidum

Clear layer

Only present on the palms and soles. Helps to reduce friction between the corneum and granulosum and also provides a barrier against water loss

Clear tightly packed cells

Stratum granulosum

Granular layer Final stages of keratinisation (the manufature of keratin) takes place

Granular appearance

Stratum spinosum

Prickle cell layer

Cells start the process of keratinisation and provide channels for the passage of nourishing tissue fluid

Prickle-shaped

Stratum germinativum

Basal cell layer

Living layer from which new cells are produced. Pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) produced here

Rectangular cells formed in waves that cover the dermis

Dermis The second layer of the skin lies deeper and is called the dermis. It contains blood vessels, nerves, hair roots and sweat glands.

Over to you

Subcutaneous layer

Skin game

Below the dermis lies another layer of the skin comprised of a layer of subcutaneous fat. The join between the epidermis and the dermis is wavy. The subcutaneous layer contains larger blood vessels and nerves, and is made up of fat-filled cells called adipose cells. The subcutaneous fat lies on the muscles and bones, loosely attached by connective tissues so the skin can move fairly freely.

Sudoriferous and sebaceous glands Skin produces sweat and oil from glands. The sudoriferous (sweat) glands are coiled ducts deep in the skin that connect to the surface; they secrete sweat, which is 99 per cent water and 1 per cent salts and fats. The sebaceous (oil) glands attached to the hair follicle secrete sebum on to the surface of the skin. Nerve endings

Sweat pore

Hair follicle

Dermis (true skin) Hair root

Reticular layer Nerve fibre

Sweat gland

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: TW, IE, CT, SM

Horny layer Clear layer Granular layer Prickle cell layer Basal Sebaceous layer gland Papillary layer Arrector pili muscle (muscle to erect hair) Subcutaneous layer

Dermal Hair bulb papilla

Hair shaft

Epidermis (outer skin)

Blood capillary vessel

Adipose tissue (fat cells)

Make a game that you can play with your group. It should be based on the parts of the skin and should help you to remember them. It could be a card game such as pairs, board game or similar. Be adventurous and creative. Once you have created your game, play it with your peers.

Check it out 1. Name the two types of glands found in the skin. 2. How many layers make up the epidermis? 3. In which layer of the epidermis are melanocytes created? 4. List three functions of the skin. 5. What is keratinisation?

Cross-section of the skin

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Anatomy and physiology of the hair Introduction

Starting point A strand of hair can be stronger than a strand of nylon of the same thickness.

Our hair serves as both protection and adornment. It is found all over the body in varying degrees of colour, strength and thickness. Hair also varies between ages and cultures and is styled, coloured and cut, as well as removed completely using different methods of hair removal which defeats the object of having hair at all as it is there to protect the delicate areas of our body.

Structure of the hair Hair is made up of a protein called keratin. The diagram below shows the structure of a hair follicle, with the sebaceous gland, and the hair attached to the papilla – the hair’s link to the capillary network through which it obtains its food and oxygen supply from the blood. Nerve endings

Dermis (true skin)

Sweat Hair pore follicle Hair root

Reticular layer Lymph vessels

Nerve fibre

Sweat Dermal gland papilla

Hair shaft Sebaceous gland

Horny layer Clear layer Granular layer Prickle cell layer Basal layer Papillary layer Arrector pili muscle (muscle to erect hair)

Epidermis (outer skin)

Blood capillary vessel

Hair Adipose tissue Blood Subcutaneous bulb (fat cells) vessels layer

Structure of a hair follicle

The three layers of the hair The three layers of a hair are the cuticle, cortex and medulla.

Did you know?

CORTEX Contains natural colour pigment

Fine

CUTICLE Can be many layers thick

The properties of hair are recognised by its: ll tensile strength (amount of pressure required to break it)

Medium

ll elasticity (how far it can be stretched and return to its original length) ll direction of growth (curly, straight) ll hair shaft diameter (fine or coarse hair).

MEDULLA Not always present Coarse

Structure of a hair

Hair grows from the follicle. Hair above the skin is dead; below the skin in the follicle it is actively growing. A new hair grows for a number of years and then dies at the base of the follicle. This growth varies from person to person – the period is longer in young people. The follicle rests for a few months before a new hair starts to grow. Hair grows

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

at an average of 1.25 cm per month and the follicle rests for a few months before a new hair starts to grow.

Growth cycle of hair The hair goes through three stages of growth and change: anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagen

Over to you Tensile strength test

Anagen

Catagen

Telogen

In a small group, gather together: a pulled strand of hair, piece of cotton and copper wire. See which can withstand the heaviest weights. Record your findings on a chart. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, TW

The growth cycle of hair

Types of hair growth The three types of body hair are ll lanugo (foetal), ll vellus (fine,downy type) ll terminal.

Lanugo hair This is a soft, downy type of hair found all over a new born-baby. The other time lanugo is in evidence is when a person is going bald as the hair undergoes another transformation.

Vellus hair This is the fine, non-pigmented hair that covers the body of children and adults. It grows slowly and can change to terminal hair over a period of a few months to several years. This is particularly so in women during the menopause, when the hair on the upper lip and chin becomes darker and stronger.

Terminal hair

Jargon buster Papilla growing area of the hair Capillary tiny blood vessel Tensile stretchable, capable of being pulled tense Melanin a dark brown or black pigment Depilation temporary method of hair removal Epilation permanent method of hair removal

This is deep-seated, coarse hair, dark in colour, found in areas where extra protection is needed. These areas include: ll under the arms, for protection against friction ll pubic regions, to protect against friction and protect the soft tissue ll the eyebrows and eyelashes, to prevent dust and dirt going into the eyes ll on the scalp, to reduce heat loss. Both men and women have terminal hairs on their arms and legs, although the extent of the growth varies from one individual to another. In many cultures, it is expected that women will have a dark, heavy growth of hair under the arms and in other areas. In the western world, it is considered undesirable to have excessive hair growth whether it is on the legs, face or armpit and therefore it is removed by depilation or epilation methods.

Check it out 1. List three functions of hair. 2. State the three layers of the hair. 3. What does tensile strength mean? 4. What is the average growth of hair per month? 57

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Anatomy and physiology of the nail Starting point Did you know that nails are made up of the same protein as hair?

Introduction All primates have nails; they are one of the characteristics linked to evolution. Nails and hands are used to manipulate objects, and are an essential part of being able to function. Hands can carry out many different activities like grasping, controlling and operating. The nails protect the soft tissue of the nail bed and the sensitive tips of our fingers, which play an important role in touch, sense and feeling.

Parts of the nail Part of nail

Appearance

Function

Nail plate

Hard, rectangular, curved structure

Covers and protects the sensitive fingertips and nail bed

Healthy nails should be pink, smooth, flexible. The nail plate is made up of layers of fat and moisture

Did you know? Fingertip facts

Nail bed

Soft, fleshy and pink

Contains important blood vessels and nerve endings. Ridges in the nail bed help to keep the nail in place as it grows

Lunula

Also known as the half moon. It is at the base of the nails and is the visible part of the matrix

Where growth takes place

Matrix

Found under the base of the nail along the back wall

Cell division occurs creating new nail cells

Nail grooves

Located along the edge of the nail plate

Directs the nail’s growth

Nail wall

Folds of skin which overlap the sides of the nail plate

Protects against bacteria entering

Free edge

The visible part of the nail plate. Because it has grown away from the nail bed beneath, it appears as a white edge

Protects the ends of the fingers or toes

ll The nails are held together with fats and moisture. ll Nails dry out as we age. ll The ridges on a nail are natural and are there to help the nail plate fix to the nail bed. However, very deep ridges can be a sign of illness. ll Fingernails take 3–6 months to grow from root to tip. ll Toenails take 10–12 months to grow from root to tip. ll Nails grow faster in summer than in winter. ll If a person is right handed, the fingernails will grow faster on the right hand than the left because they receive more stimulation. ll Men’s nails grow faster than women’s. ll The longer the finger, the faster the nail growth. ll If we diet too much, nail growth slows down. ll If left to grow too long, nails will start to curl.

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

How the nail grows Nails grow from a point below the skin at the base of the nail called the matrix. Growth starts when the cells divide, creating new soft, translucent, plump cells – a process called mitosis. The matrix also manufactures keratin, a protein-like substance that is responsible for hardening the nails. As the cells move away from the matrix, they begin to harden and flatten – a process called keratinisation. As the cells harden and grow, they form the nail plate, which is like armour protecting the soft, tender nail bed underneath. As the nail grows along the nail grooves, it eventually reaches the finger tips and forms the free edge. The visible part of the matrix is called the lunula and shows at the base of the nail and is white and half-moon shaped. Cells divide at the matrix – mitosis

Nail growth along the nail bed

Keratin manufactured to harden the nails

Over to you Nail structure In pairs, inspect each other’s nails and surrounding skin. Record the parts that you can see and the parts that you can’t, using the table opposite. Describe what the visible parts look like. Functional Skills Links: English

The process of nail growth

Factors that influence nail growth

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Though nails grow an average of 5 cm per year, their growth depends on: ll age

Jargon buster

ll health ll gender

Primate a mammal with a large brain, hands and feet: e.g. humans, apes

ll time of year. Matrix

Nail fold

Perionychium (cuticle) Eponychium (cuticle) Nail plate Free edge

Matrix the place from which cells develop into nails Mitosis cell division Keratin a protein that forms hair, nails and feathers

Nail bed

Hyponychium

Structure of the nail Free edge

Nail plate

Lunula the half moon at the base of the nail

Hyponychium Nail wall Nail groove

Lunula Eponychium (cuticle)

Keratinisation the process of forming keratin

Nail fold

Check it out 1. How long do fingernails and toenails take to grow from root to tip? 2. Name three factors that influence nail growth. 3. What is the function of the nail walls?

The nail plate

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Anatomy and physiology of head, neck and shoulders Starting point Did you know that when you are born your bones are soft?

Introduction The bones provide a rigid framework as well as protecting soft internal organs. Connected to our bones are muscles responsible for every movement of the body. They keep our tongue moving, heart pounding and lungs pumping, keep our throat clear and our food moving as well as manufacturing the heat that keeps us warm.

Bones of the skull and face The skull is a tough protective cover for the brain. It comprises eight bones that are joined together by sutures. In new-borns, these sutures are not yet fused, allowing for the necessary growth of the brain. The face has 14 bones. These provide contour and framework for our individual features as well as protection for underlying structures. Frontal bone – forms the front of the skull, forehead and upper eye sockets

Parietal bone – forms the roof of the skull

Nasal bone

Did you know? llAn adult has 206 bones.

Zygomatic bone

ll A baby has 300 bones at birth.

Occipital bone Temporal bone

ll Half of our bones are in our hands and feet. ll 25% of bones are water. ll It takes 15 muscles to smile but 43 muscles to frown. ll There are 656 muscles in the human body.

Sutures – where the bones are fused together

Maxilla

Mandible

Bones of the chest, neck and shoulders The heavy bones of the face and skull are supported by a framework of neck and shoulder bones. Attached to these is the sternum which also protects the soft tissues of the chest cavity. Clavicle (shoulder bone)

Scapula (shoulder blade)

Sternum

Ribs

Spinal column

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

How many?

Bones

Position

Clavicle

Long bones situated each side of the neck, along the top front of the chest, otherwise referred to as the collar bones

2

Humerus

Long bones that form the upper arm

2

Scapula

Large, flat, triangular bones that form the posterior shoulder girdle

2

Sternum

Centre of the chest. Sometimes referred to as the breast bone

1

Cervical vertebrae

These are the first bones of the spine and form the neck. They start at the base of the skull

7

Muscles of the head and face Many of the muscles in the face are small and are attached to other facial muscles. Making a facial expression involves more than one muscle to bring about a contraction. The facial muscles can be categorised into: ll muscles of facial expression ll muscles of mastication. As we age, our facial expressions produce lines and, in time, deep wrinkles. This is due to the increased use of the muscles and the loss of elasticity in them as they become older.

Muscles of the neck and shoulders These muscles support the head, which is very heavy, and assist with movement of our head, neck and upper body.

Jargon buster Suture an immovable joint found only between skull bones and consisting of a small amount of connective tissue between the bones

Muscle

Action

Position

Platysma

Draws corners of mouth down and back

Sides of neck and chin

Sterno-cleidomastoid

Rotates and bows head

From temporal bone to clavicle and sternum

Trapezius

Allows movement of shoulder and draws head backwards

Covers back of neck and upper back

Pectoralis major

Elevates arm towards Front of chest upper body

Check it out

Deltoid

Takes arm away from side of body

1. How many muscles are there in an adult human body?

Covers shoulders

Fused joined together

2. How many muscles are there in a new-born baby? 3. What actions are the muscles responsible for maintaining? 4. What is a function of the skeleton? 61 M03_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 61

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Starting point Do you have any idea how many miles you walk in an average day?

Anatomy and physiology of arms, hands, legs and feet Introduction The bones and muscles that make up the legs and feet provide leverage, strength and motion. The feet bear the body’s weight and provide forward motion; the feet provide stability and flexibility; arches ensure that the feet can bear this weight and movement. The leg bones provide further support and leverage for the body. The hands and arms also carry out a multitude of jobs. Flexibility and dexterity, along with fine motor skills, means we can use tools, carry out tasks, lift, carry and grip objects.

Anatomy of the arms and hands The hand and arm bones

Over to you

The wrist consists of eight carpal bones, which glide over each other facilitating movement. Five metacarpal bones make up the palm of the hand and 14 individual bones called phalanges make the fingers.

Hand and wrist bones Using a clear diagram of the bones of the wrist and hand, use a watersoluble marker pen to draw the bones on to your own hands. Work in pairs to make it easier.

The arm is made up of three long bones. The humerus is the upper arm bone; the radius and ulna lie alongside each other forming the lower arm. Their position lets the wrist rotate which helps us to manipulate objects. Proximal Middle Distal Pisiform Capitate phalanx phalanx phalanx Triquetral Hamate Lunate

Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, TW

Phalanges of 2nd-5th digits Distal phalanx Scaphoid of thumb Trapezoid Trapezium Metacarpals Proximal phalanx of thumb

Top tip

The muscles of the hand and arm

llThe muscles that bend the wrist bringing it towards the forearm are called flexors.

Hand movements are brought about by two sets of muscles:

ll The muscles that straighten the wrist are called extensors.

The flexor muscles, on the underside of the forearm, are attached by tendons to the phalanges of the fingers. The extensor muscles, on the back of the forearm, are connected in a similar way. Two separate flexor muscles move the thumb in opposite directions making grasping possible. There are two other muscles on each side of the palm called the thenar and hypothenar eminences.

Jargon buster Rotate to turn around a fixed point Tendon an inelastic cord of tough, white, fibrous tissue that attaches a muscle to a bone

ll the flexors, for bending the fingers and thumb ll the extensors, for straightening out the digits (fingers).

Extensor carpi radialis

Brachioradialis

Extensor carpi ulnaris

Extensor digitorum

Posterior view of arm (palm down)

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Hypothenar

Flexor carpi ulnaris

Flexor carpi radialis Anterior view of arm (palm up)

Over to you

Thenar

Leg muscles

Anatomy of the legs and feet

Practise the movements of the muscles of the lower leg. For example:

Bones of the feet The foot is made up of seven tarsal bones, five metatarsal bones and 14 phalanges. The bones fit together to form arches which assist in moving as well as supporting the foot and absorbing impact. Medial cuneiform

ll gastrocnemius ll tibialis anterior ll soleus. Functional Skills Links: English

Medial cuneiform

PLTS Links: IE Talus

Metatarsals

Metatarsals

Jargon buster Inverts to turn inwards

Calcaneus

Flexes bends

Bones of the foot

Plantar flexes bends towards the ground Transverse arch

Check it out Lateral longitudinal arch Arches of the foot

Medial longitudinal arch

1. How many bones are in the hands and feet? 2. Name the bones of the leg and lower arm.

Bones of the leg The lower leg is made up of two long bones, the tibia and fibula. The upper leg is made up of the femur, a very long and strong bone. In between is the patella, also known as the knee bone. The lower leg bones have joints with the knee and ankle.

Muscles of the lower leg and foot These muscles work together to assist the body with movement when walking and running. The movement of the foot is mainly achieved by the muscles and tendons in the lower leg. Muscles

Action

Tibialis anterior

Inverts and flexes the foot

Gastrocnemius

Flexes knee, plantar flexes foot

Soleus

Flexion of the ankle joint

Extensors of the toes

Straighten the toes

Actions of the muscles of the lower leg and toes

3. What action do the flexors and extensors have?

Gastrocnemius

Peroneous longus

Soleus

Gastrocnemius and soleus muscles

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Skin, hair and nail health Starting point

Introduction

How often do you think about how your lifestyle and the environment you live in will affect your skin, hair and nails?

Many factors influence the health and condition of the hair, skin and nails, and most are within our control. However, when illness is the cause, additional advice, guidance and medication are needed. The skin suffers as we age. It becomes thinner and has lines and wrinkles where the skin has lost elasticity and the muscles have lost tone. Stress levels

Lifestyle/working environment

Eating patterns

Alcohol intake

Illness

Over to you Protection from the environment Can you think of any other ways in which we can protect our skin, hair and nails from the environment in which we live and work? Create a spider diagram or chart to illustrate your answers. Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT

Jargon buster Detrimental damaging, harmful Sunscreen cream, lotion or oil applied to the skin to protect it from the sun and burning Constriction to make a blood vessel or opening narrow Permeability able to pass through Trachea windpipe; breathing tube from the throat to the lungs

Exercise levels

Smoking habits

Factors affecting hair, skin and nails

Products previously used and their success

Weather – cold/ heat/sunshine Allergies and reactions

Age

Genetic inheritance

Hormones

Central heating

Ways to help maintain and improve your skin, hair and nails ll Alcohol – avoid excess amounts, as it dehydrates the skin and causes dilation of the blood capillaries, which leads to a red complexion. Loss of valuable nutrients also occurs through excess drinking of alcohol. ll Exercise – this stimulates the blood flow, which increases the circulation of oxygen and nutrients to the skin and nails and, in turn stimulates the production of new cells. ll Smoking – both smoking and smoky atmospheres age the skin, dry it out and cause broken capillaries. ll Good hygiene – clean your skin, hair and nails regularly to prevent build up of bacteria and dead skin cells. ll Sleep – it is important to get plenty of sleep as it is a great beautifier (this is the time when the skin rests and repairs itself). ll Nutritionally balanced diet – the body requires an adequate supply of fresh nutrients so that it can work to its optimum efficiency, fight illness and renew itself. ll Drinking water – flushes out impurities, which, in turn, keep the skin clear and prevent it from drying out

Environmental factors Heat, humidity, pollution and ultraviolet light can also have a detrimental effect on our skin, nails and hair. We can take precautionary measures to minimise the effect of these.

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

ll In the sun, protect your skin with sunscreen, moisturise your nails with cuticle cream and use conditioner on your hair as well as wearing a hat. ll Wear protective creams to combat the effects of the wind, cold and rain. Dull skin and eyes

Dull hair without any shine

Dry flaky scalp

Split ends

Over to you Allergies

Dehydrated, flaky skin

Spots, blemishes

Signs of poor health

Dry, flaking and splitting nails

Conditions and disorders The skin, hair and nails are prone to a variety of conditions and disorders over time. Some of these are harmless, if somewhat unsightly, but others are infectious and occasionally painful. Disorder/Disease

Infectious

Type of infection Noninfectious Viral Fungal Bacterial Parasitic

Dermatitis (disorder)

Eczema (disorder)

Psoriasis (disorder)

Research the various allergies that people you know have. These may be allergies or sensitivities to products, foods or the environment. Gather the results of your investigation and present them either as a visual display, such as a poster or mood board, or in graph format that represents the most common allergies. Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE, SM, FS

Impetigo

Herpes simplex

Tinea

Pediculosis

Scabies

Did you know?

✔ ✔

Common disorders and diseases of the skin, hair and nails

Allergies and the histamine reaction Histamine is an important protein involved in many allergic reactions. Allergies are caused by a resistance to a normally harmless substance that comes into contact with the body. If a person has an allergic reaction to something, their body will react unfavourably by releasing this protein.

Antihistamines Allergies are frequently treated by drugs called antihistamines because they inhibit the activity of histamine.  Antihistamines have been in use since the 1930s and they continue to be an effective way to deal with the problems of allergies. The use of antihistamines allows us to live more safely and comfortably by counteracting the body’s reactions.

What does histamine do? It contributes to an inflammatory response and causes constriction of smooth muscle. The release of histamine causes allergic symptoms such as inflamation, itching and swelling.  Upon release of histamine, permeability of blood vessels near the site is increased.  Blood fluids then enter the area causing swelling and inflammation. Histamine’s second type of allergic response is one of the major causes of asthma. In extreme circumstances, the muscles surrounding the airways tighten and narrow causing shortness of breath and sometimes complete breathlessness because of the trachea closing completely.

Check it out 1. List three infectious conditions. 2. What is a histamine reaction? 3. List three signs of poor health.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Starting point The range of treatments and services in the hair and beauty sector is growing all the time with the introduction of new methods and techniques.

Key services in the hair and beauty sector Introduction The hair and beauty industries rely on a range of services to generate income, encourage clients to return and to improve the condition of the skin, hair and nails. The traditional services still remain as popular as ever but emerging trends further expand the services we offer in the sector. This opens up further career and progression pathways.

Glossary of services Hair ll Shampooing – washing the hair. ll Drying – the hair is dried after shampooing using a range of methods, including blow drying, hood drying, finger drying, left to naturally dry without aid. ll Setting – drying the hair while it is in curling rollers or rods and then styling it. ll Perming – creating waves, curls using chemicals and curling rods. ll Straightening – using heated hair irons to flatten hair for a poker-straight style; using chemical products to relax curls.

Over to you Treatments in hair and beauty In small groups, investigate some other treatments across the six hair and beauty industries and create a colourful poster or leaflet with cuttings and photos to illustrate the techniques available. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: TW, IE, CT, SM

ll Colouring – applying dyes to alter the colour of the hair, either in sections or the whole head of hair.

Beauty ll Facials – a combination of small separate steps are carried out to deep cleanse, exfoliate and relax the skin and client. ll Depilation – temporary hair removal using methods such as waxing, sugaring, tweezing, shaving, hair removal creams.

Spa ll Aromatherapy – treatments such as massage using essential oils in a carrier oil for a sense of wellbeing or invigoration. ll Steam bath – moist heat bath to relax muscles and hydrate the skin. ll Flotation tanks – floating in a water chamber containing salts and minerals to induce relaxation. ll Sauna – dry heat room that relaxes the muscles and induces sweat which helps to eliminate toxins from the skin.

Jargon buster

Nails ll Shape and varnish – filing and enamelling.

Emollient softening or smoothing substance

ll Manicure – filing and shaping, cuticle work, massage of hand and arm, enamelling.

Parabens chemical that mimics a hormone. Used in cosmetics, deodorants and food

ll Specialised treatments – using warm oils or paraffin wax to deeply moisturise the skin and nails of the feet and hands.

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

For the skin

Effects

For the hair

Effects

For the nails

Effects

Cleansers

To remove stale make-up, clean dirt, dust and grime from the skin and pores and remove oil and dead skin cells To dissolve any excess cleanser, refresh and cool the skin, tighten the pores and remove any grease

Shampoo

To wash grease and dirt from the hair and prepare it for further styling

Nail varnish

To give colour to the nails. Varnish comes in a range of colours

Conditioner

An emollient to soften the Nail varnish remover hair after shampooing and smooth the cuticle

Acetone-based liquid used to remove the enamel colour from the nails

Moisturisers

To soften, protect and rehydrate the skin and help the application of make-up by providing a smooth base

Perming solution

A chemical that creates waves or curls in the hair

Cuticle cream

An emollient to soften and hydrate the cuticles

Masks

To deep-clean the skin and pores, soften fine lines and refine the texture; the final effect depends on the ingredients used

Styling products (mousses, sprays, gels)

To prolong the life of the hair style, smooth, create structure in the hair style

Cuticle remover

To remove overgrowth of dead skin from the cuticles that has adhered to the nail plate

Colour pigment in make-up

To enhance skin colour

Colours

To alter the existing colour of the hair using dyes

Exfoliants

To remove the dead skin Relaxers cells on the skin surface, brighten the complexion and allow creams to work better

Paraffin waxes and oils

Applied warm to the skin to soften, smooth and relax

Toners

To minimise curls

Restructurants To strengthen and repair the very inner part of the hair follicle of dry, damaged hair

Effects of products on the skin, hair and nails

Common ingredients used in products Ingredients used in the hair and beauty industries can be of natural or chemical origin: ll Botanical or natural ingredients – green tea, shea butter, honey, seaweed, menthol, essential oils and guillaja saponica. ll Chemical ingredients – parabens, petrolatum, isopropyl alcohol/ myristate, acetone, sodium laureth suphate, glycerine, glycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide.

Improve efficiency

Maintain freshness

Add smell

Uses of ingredients in products

Enhance the result

Extend shelf life/product life

Over to you Ingredients investigation From the list of products, investigate which contain these ingredients. Display your results using a chart or graph. Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE, SM

Check it out 1. List three methods of drying the hair. 2. What is the purpose of cleansing? 3. Which process is used to curl or wave the hair? 67

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Effects of products, heat, water and electricity Starting point Imagine what life would be like without heat and electricity.

Introduction Within hair and beauty, combining the effects of products, heat, water and electricity expands the scope of available treatments and services. It offers options to minimise time, be more cost-effective and attract more clients, who quite often believe that they are receiving something better. However, using treatments and services that incorporate products, heat, water and electricity usually requires further training of staff over and above their existing skills to ensure safe operation and usage. This section covers the effect of these things.

Effect of products The variety of different products is immense, from nail enhancement powders and solutions to spa minerals, skincare and make-up through to chemicals used to style the hair. Each has specific effects so their choice and use should be considered carefully before treatment. This usually involves a discussion between the client and a specialist and the completion of a consultation. Products can:

Top tip Safety It is essential when using products, heat, water and electricity that the temperature applied to the skin, hair, scalp and nails is tested before application and monitored throughout its use, to prevent burns and scalds. Overuse of products, heat, water and electricity could also lead to a very humid or hot environment for visitors and staff, which would be an uncomfortable place to be in as well as being a harbour for germs and bacteria, so good ventilation is important.

ll hydrate the skin, nails and hair ll alter the chemical composition of hair ll deep clean ll extend and enhance ll relax.

Effect of heat Heat applied directly or indirectly to the skin, hair and nails can improve the action of products or treatments making them more efficient as well as helping to relax.

Effect of water Water is a great base for products, as well as being used with them or on its own. Water can be used as steam: for example, when it is boiled it turns to vapour, which is ideal for steaming pores and deep cleaning. It can also be used in its natural state to wash hair, skin and nails. Very often products such as detergents are mixed to create a product capable of cleaning a variety of things. In hard water areas, the use of water in appliances can lead to problems caused by the build-up of limescale, which can shorten the life of the appliance unless regular descaling is carried out or a water softener is used. Water can: ll dehydrate ll steam clean ll open pores.

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Over to you Survey Carry out a survey among local hair and beauty businesses by collecting information on the treatments and services they offer and whether the treatments require products, water, heat or electricity or a combination. Present your findings in a table, then work out the percentage of services that require either products, water, heat or electricity.

Water has a variety of uses in hair services and beauty treatments

Effect of electricity The use of electricity in treatments and services is common and very effective. Electricity can be used to power equipment used across the industries. Alternatively, electricity in a safe form can be applied via electrodes directly on the area. Electricity can: ll warm ll power electrical equipment ll create effects not otherwise possible.

Electricity used in treatments and services ll Faradic – faradic current is an alternating and interrupted current capable of producing a mechanical reaction without a chemical effect. When the current is applied to the body, the muscles are toned and the circulation of blood improves.

Functional Skills Links: English, Mathematics, ICT PLTS Links: IE

Jargon buster Minerals naturally occurring substances that are mined or extracted from the ground Composition what things are made of Humid air with a high level of moisture Electrodes a conductor through which electricity enters or leaves either a battery or a piece of electrical equipment

ll Galvanic – this is a constant and direct current with opposite poles. The positive pole has an acidic reaction which soothes nerves, decreases blood supply and hardens tissues. The negative pole has an alkaline reaction: it irritates nerves, increases blood supply and softens tissues. The positive pole (anode) is used in therapy to firm tissues, close pores after a facial treatment, and minimise redness and inflammation after treatment. The negative pole (cathode) may also be used to remove superfluous hair by electrolysis.

Opposite poles positive or negative terminals in electricity

ll High frequency (thermolysis) – this is an alternating current used in hair removal. The fast change in direction of the current causes heat which, in turn, coagulates the root ball of the hair which can then be removed. If not used properly, burns can occur on the skin.

Check it out

Coagulates to thicken or become a semi-solid mass

1. When is faradic current used? 2. When is galvanic current used? 3. List two effects of heat and electricity on services.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Common testing procedures 1

Starting point

Introduction

Have you ever coloured your hair or used a skin care product without reading the instructions first or carrying out a sensitivity test?

Within the hair and beauty sector, a range of essential testing procedures are carried out on clients, equipment and products. This is done so that safe methods of working can be maintained and potential allergies can be assessed. Tests should follow the manufacturer’s guidelines, otherwise the results may not be accurate or there could be risks to health. This section covers a variety of testing methods and their procedures. Purpose of common testing:

Not testing could lead to:

Repercussions of not carrying out tests:

ll To determine condition of hair, skin and/or nails

ll Allergic reactions

You will not know if the client is safe to have the treatment or service

ll To optimise product efficiency

Jargon buster

ll To protect the client’s health

Psycho-motor skills skills carried out by bodily movement

ll Incorrect results ll Illness ll Chemical reactions

Safe test procedures When carrying out any test make sure that: ll risk assessments are carried out, particularly if using electrical equipment and chemicals ll personal protective equipment (PPE) is worn, e.g. goggles, gloves ll manufacturer’s guidelines and product instructions are followed

Did you know?

ll you refer to COSHH ll an assessment of client health and condition is completed

pH facts

ll appropriate products and equipment are selected under guidance

ll Acids have a sharp taste.

ll practical and psycho-motor skills are developed prior to the test.

ll Acids and alkalis are corrosive. ll Neutral solutions are neither acid nor alkaline.

pH testing

ll Water is a neutral solution.

Acids and alkalis

ll Alkalis have a soapy feel.

pH 0

1

R

Strong ACIDS The pH scale

2

3 O

The strength of an acid or alkali is shown on the pH scale. When a substance dissolves in water it makes a solution. Solutions can be categorised by whether they are acid, alkali or neutral. pH is measured on a 14-point scale. 4

5

6

7

Y

G

Weak ACIDS

8

9

10 B

Weak ALKALIS

11

12

13

14 P

Strong ALKALIS

NEUTRAL

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Indicators Indicators help you find out whether a solution is acid or not. They change colour in acid or alkaline solutions. Different indicators change to different colours. A special liquid called universal indicator can be dropped into various other liquids. Colour changes indicate whether the liquid is an acid or an alkali and show the strength. Type of acid / alkali

Colour change

Strong acid

Red

Weak acid

Orange/yellow

Neutral acid

Green

Weak alkali

Turquoise blue

Strong alkali

Deep blue/purple

Over to you

Colour changes using universal indicator

pH test

The numbers on the pH scale match with the colours of the universal indicator scale.

In pairs, use litmus paper to test the pH of vinegar, water, baking powder, tea, cola, lemon juice, stomach powder, water.

Litmus is another indicator. It changes colour in acid and alkaline solutions: ll red litmus goes blue in an alkali – high pH.

Display your results in a pie chart to indicate whether each of the liquids was acid or alkali.

Hard and soft water testing

Functional Skills Links: Mathematics, ICT

Hard water forms when naturally occurring minerals enter water sources. Over time these minerals are absorbed by groundwater. The two most common types of minerals found in hard water are calcium and magnesium compounds (limescale). The presence of these can make cleaning more difficult and can reduce the lifespan of appliances.

PLTS Links: IE, TW

ll blue litmus goes red in an acid – low pH

The hardness of water can be reduced safely by a water softener. Soft water makes it easier to clean clothes, leaves skin feeling less dry and irritated, and helps to prevent the build-up of scum around sinks, showers and baths. Look for hard water clues in your home. ll Do your plates and cutlery have water spots on them? ll Is it difficult to get soap to lather? ll Does your white clothing look a grey colour instead of bright white? ll Is there a white, crusty layer inside your kettle? The hardness of your water can be worked out and will be reported in grains per gallon, milligrams per litre (mg/l) or parts per million (ppm). One grain of hardness equals 17.1 mg/l or ppm of hardness. Water hardness

mg/l or ppm

grains/gallon

Soft

0 – 17.1

0–1

Slightly hard

17.1 – 60

1 – 3.5

Moderately hard

60 – 120

3.5 – 7.0

Hard

120 – 180

7.0 – 10.5

Very hard

180 and over

10.5 and over

Hard water test During your work experience take a look at the appliances that could be affected by hard water. Create a table listing the appliances and the difficulties that your employer experiences with hard water. Include a column that describes what your employer does to minimise or prevent the build-up of limescale. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, SM

Did you know? Sixty per cent of the UK population lives in a hard water area.

Levels of water hardness

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Common testing procedures 2 Porosity test Everyone’s hair has different levels of porosity. Dry hair is most commonly caused by colouring, perming, or too much heat from blow-drying or hair straighteners. The result of overuse will make the hair feel dry and dull. When hair is in a healthy condition it will hold a hairstyle longer, take less time to dry and have a natural shine. How to test for porosity

Result

Test the front of the hairline, in front of the ears, and near the crown.

ll The more ruffles that form, the more porous the hair is.

1. Grasp small strands of dry hair and comb smoothly.

ll The less ruffles that form, the less porous the hair.

2. Hold the ends firmly with the thumb and index finger of one hand and slide the fingers of the other hand from the ends towards the scalp.

Strand test Before colouring, a strand test should indicate the final colour that will be achieved. How to test a strand 1. Snip a few hairs from the back of the head, and stick the hairs to some tape. 2. Coat the hairs with the dye and leave it to process as per the manufacturer’s guidelines. 3. Shampoo off the dye, then check the final colour and condition of hair.

Condition test Testing hair visually can tell you what the hair needs and how it will react to treatment. How to test hair condition

Result

1. Pluck out a strand of hair and hold it between your thumb and forefinger.

ll If the hair springs back to the coiled spring, it is in good to excellent condition.

2. Using your other hand, run your thumbnail and index finger along the hair quickly and it should produce a coiled spring of hair. 3. Straighten the coiled spring of hair by pulling it taut for a few seconds and then release.

ll If the air returns in much larger loops or hardly at all, it is in poor condition and needs conditioning and rehydrating.

Tactile tests To test whether the skin will react appropriately to heat, cold and feeling, two tactile (sense and feeling) tests are usually carried out prior to some treatments. With both of these tests, if the client gets the answer incorrect, it could mean that they have impaired skin sensitivity and the resulting treatment should not be carried out until further tests have been carried out by their GP. 72 M03_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 72

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

How to carry out tactile tests ll Sharp/blunt – use an orange wood stick with cotton wool wrapped around one end. The person is asked not to look but to feel each end of the orange wood stick and say whether they think it is sharp or blunt. ll Hot/cold – the client must indicate whether they can feel heat or cold, using test tubes filled with cold and warm water.

Sensitivity tests These tests are designed to assess the reaction of a person’s skin to treatment and products. Product tests are carried out by mixing a small amount in exactly the same way as it would be mixed for the actual treatment. It is applied to an area of the client’s skin and left for a short time (depending on the manufacturer’s instructions). The product mix is then wiped off and the person is advised that if they experience any redness, irritation or swelling within 24–48 hours, it will mean that they are allergic to the product. If a person is under 16 years old, has been ill recently or not had a treatment before, they should be patch tested, which entails carrying out the treatment on a very small section of the skin to find out how the skin will react.

Recording test results Tests are carried out to decide either the suitability of a product or service or the reaction of something, so accurate records of results need to be maintained. The following information should be recorded on, for example, a client consultation card or client history sheet so that the information is available for other staff that may need it:

Did you know? Common products tested include: • hair dyes • lash tinting dyes • hair removal chemicals. Common treatments tested include: • hair removal such as waxing • eyelash tinting and perming • hair colouring.

ll date of test ll type of test ll results of test

Top tip

ll recommendations.

In the event of a severe reaction to a test, advise the client to visit their GP.

Charts and graphs

Consultation cards

Recording results

Consultation sheets

Types of recording method

Draw conclusions Test results not only have to be carried out and recorded but the results also need to be interpreted correctly and appropriate action taken. This action may take the form of: ll adaptation or amendment to the treatment or product used, or ll avoidance of the treatment or product completely. If the treatment or service was carried out without prior testing and it caused a reaction or allergy, then manufacturer’s safety instructions should be followed. If it was carried out after a negative test result and the person still reacted, the reliability of the testing procedure and the recording of the results should be questioned.

Check it out 1. Why is it important to follow manufacturer’s instructions before using a product? 2. If a client has a positive result from a test, what should you do? 3. List three types of test and their purpose. 73

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Principles of light and colour Starting point Have you ever thought that the mood you are in could be the result of your surroundings and the colour and light used?

Introduction Light and colour are used to great effect for make-up, styling, salon design and uniforms. Used well, they can sell a product or treatment, induce calm and wellbeing or excite and invigorate. This section covers the different sorts of colour and light and their effects.

Primary colours These are three pigment colours which cannot be mixed or created using any combination of other colours. All other colours are derived from these three colours.

Secondary colours

These are the colours formed from mixing equal amounts of the primary colours: Red + Yellow = Orange Red + Blue = Purple Blue + Yellow = Green

Over to you Colour mix experiment 1. Pour a cup of milk into a wide bowl.    2. At equal distances apart, add three drops of red food colour to the edge of the bowl, then add three drops of blue food colour and then add three drops of yellow. 3. Squeeze a drop of washing-up liquid in the centre of the bowl.   4. Record what happened by taking a photograph before and after adding the washing-up liquid. 5. Upload and print the image from the computer. 6. Stick the photograph onto an A4 sheet of paper and write a brief account of what happened. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT

Tertiary colours These are the colours formed by mixing together a primary and secondary colour at a ratio of 2 to 1: for example, blue-green, yellow-orange.

Colour wheel A colour circle, based on red, yellow and blue, is traditional in the field of art, design and therapy. It shows how colours work together in harmony.

Yellow

Orange Yellow

Yellow Green

Orange

Green

Red Orange

Blue Green

Red Violet Red

Blue Blue Violet

Violet

Colour wheel showing primary, secondary and tertiary colours

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Colour harmony Analogous colors are any three colours that are side by side on a 12-part colour wheel, such as yellow-green, yellow, and yellow-orange. Complementary colours are any two colours that are directly opposite each other, such as red and green and red-purple and yellow-green. These opposing colours maximum contrast and maximum stability. Whether the colours as a rule should work well together in art, design and media, nature can go against any clash as it seems that anything goes.

Impact of light and colour on mood Light and colour can affect our mental wellbeing and mood. On a sunny day, some of us feel more upbeat; in the depths of winter, our moods can be less positive. The impact of colour and light on our emotional and physical health and wellbeing is gaining greater importance in our society. Interior designers consider the light that comes into our homes from different directions and how this impacts on colour schemes. Colour therapists decide which colour clothing and make-up we should wear to match the seasons. Dress designers sometimes create their collection based on a colour theme. In the hair and beauty sector, colour and light is essential to creating the right effect and promoting a feeling of ambience.

Impact on skin, hair, clothing The appearance of colour changes in different lighting. Lighting can bleach or flatten colours, or darken and intensify them. Light trickery can change the look of a person, stage setting or room.

Over to you Light and colour Investigate the different lighting and colour combinations used within the six hair and beauty industries and the typical effect that the industries hope to achieve for their business. Based on your findings, imagine that you are opening a hair or beauty business and create a mix of colours that work well together as well as being suitable for the effect that you wish to create. Outline the reasons for your choice. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT

Light

Effect

Daylight

Clearest but also shows up everything. Blue is the main colour to show through.

Jargon buster

Light bulb

Warm yellow glow. Purple colours may look greyish and reds can lose some of their shade; even more so in candle light.

Harmony a pleasing combination

Fluorescent

Produces a blue background colour which makes colours look cold. Most colours look weaker and orange looks grayish; however blues look more intense.

Spotlight

Blue/white colour. Reddish colours look deeper but other colours can appear pale.

Halogen

Very harsh white light that bleaches and flattens all colours.

Common types of lighting

Analogous similar Collection a group of things Ambience atmosphere, setting Visual merchandising the activity of promoting the sale of goods

Applications to other industries The selection of light and colour is essential to many industries, particularly in the hair and beauty-related industries such as photography, television, fashion shows, journalism, personal styling, theatre, arts, advertising media and make-up.

Impact on products and packaging Decisions made on visual merchandising rely on the correct choice and combination of light and colour to enhance features and encourage buying. Visual merchandising should be eye catching.

Check it out 1. Which are the three primary colours? 2. What effect does fluorescent light have? 3. What are complementary colours?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about the science of hair and beauty. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Anatomy and physiology of the skin Anatomy and physiology of the hair Anatomy and physiology of the nail Anatomy of head, neck and shoulders Anatomy of arms and hands Anatomy of legs and feet Skin, hair and nail health Key services in the hair and beauty sector Effects of products, heat, water and electricity Common testing procedures Principles of light and colour

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

Unit Unit5 questions 3 questions

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

1. 1.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

2.

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following.

Step 2 – Take action

ll Inviting feedback on your knowledge of hair and beauty.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

ll Dealing positively with the feedback received.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

ll Assessing your hand and nail services in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal.

Step 3 – Review again

ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in the science of hair and beauty. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit? Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions

Trends and influences

Anatomy and physiology of the skin

2. 3.

Anatomy and physiology of the hair

3. 1.

2.

Health and safety 3.

1.

Anatomy and physiology of the nail 1. 2. 2.

3. 3. Anatomy of head, neck and shoulders 1. Anatomy and Physiology 2. 1. 3.

2. Anatomy of arms and hands

Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences.

1.

The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit, as these examples show.

Skin, hair and nail health

1. Did I understand the science involved in hair and beauty? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

3. 2. 3.

Nail types Anatomy ofand legs disorders and feet 1. 2. 3. 2.

3. 1. 2.

Tools, products and equipment 3. 1. Key services in the hair and beauty sector

2. 1. 2.

3. 3. Effects of products, heat, water and Nail care treatments and methods electricity 1. 2. 3 2. Common testing procedures

3. 1. 2.

Nail related terminology3 3 1. Principles of light and colour 1.

2. 2. 3

3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 3 is Internal. Your tutor/practitioner/teacher will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, which shows your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief. Within the assessment you must demonstrate knowledge or understanding of: ll the fundamental aspects of the anatomy and physiology related to the hair and beauty sector ll the key factors that affect the health and

condition of the skin and nails ll the key services within the hair and beauty sector, the products used and their ingredients and effects ll how to conduct a range of common testing procedures and interpret and record test results ll how to select complementary colours to enhance skin tone, product and clothing within the hair and beauty sector. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset, so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Outline the structure and function of the body in relation to services within the hair and beauty sector, using terminology

You will need to outline the structure or function of the body using appropriate terminology

You will need to be very accurate in your outline of the structure and function of the body, ensuring that appropriate terminology is used throughout

Assess the common conditions indicating poor health and condition

You will need to assess a range of common conditions of poor health

You will need to assess a wide range of common conditions of poor health

Evaluate how the key factors can affect health and condition

You will need to evaluate the key factors considering the effect on the hair, skin and nails.

You will need to provide a detailed and thorough evaluation of the key factors with wide consideration to the effect on the hair, skin and nails.

Identify the combined effects of electricity, water, light, heat, products and ingredients on hair and beauty services

You will need to identify the effects of electricity, water, light and heat on products and ingredients

You will need to provide a detailed identification of the effects of electricity, light and heat on products and ingredients

Select, organise and carry out tests commonly used on hair, skin and nails and those to test pH and water, identifying the purpose of the test

You will need to select and carry out a range of tests using resources

You will need to select and carry out a range of tests using a wider variety of resources that you have organised and managed well, with minimal help from your teacher/ assessor

Interpret, record and review the results of tests

You will need to outline and record the results of the tests and give some conclusions on the results that you achieved

You will need to give a detailed interpretation of the results of the tests and record them in a logical and clear format, with a clear conclusion of the results

Select and try out colours to enhance skin tone, product and clothing

You will need to select and try out colours to enhance a range of skin tones, products and clothing

You will need to select and apply a range of appropriate and relevant principles of colours to enhance skin tone, product and clothing

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UNIT 3 The Science of hair and beauty

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to practise safe working practices and completion of risk assessments. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your teacher regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l Investigation into colour therapy l Animal testing in make-up products l Diseases of the bones and their impact l Colour and light therapy and its psychological impact

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Introduction Effective communication is very important when working in the hair and beauty industries. The image that first impressions give when meeting and greeting a colleague or customer is very important as it promotes a professional image of the workplace. Effective communication also creates a good working relationship within the salon, as teamwork plays a crucial role in the world of work. This unit will help you to understand the importance of the different types and methods of communication and how you will know if communication has been effective. You will also learn about the importance of interpersonal skills and professional image, the barriers to communication, the role of effective customer service and how to carry out an efficient client consultation. As most of the working population spend the majority of their time in the workplace, going to work needs to be an enjoyable experience. If everyone communicates effectively and works as a team, this makes for a good working relationship and a happy work force. If we did not communicate well with customers or colleagues, we would have: ll dissatisfied customers

Links to other units

ll unhappy work colleagues

This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning.

ll an unprofessional image ll poor working conditions

Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty

ll a poor reputation for customer care ll a failing business. Learning outcome (LO)

Covered in section . . .

LO1: Know the role and types of communication in business

The role of communication

82 – 83

Unit 6 Promoting and selling products and services by professional recommendation

Types and methods of communication

84 – 87

Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

LO2: Be able to demonstrate a range of communication skills for different situations, including those required to maintain a safe working environment

Barriers to communication

88 – 89

LO3: Understand the role of communication for effective customer service

Customer service satisfaction

LO4: Be able to carry out consultations with clients in relation to different hair, beauty and nail services

Client consultation

Page number

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and make-up Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

When you are communicating about health and safety issues

92 – 93

When you are promoting and selling the hair and beauty services that are offered When you know how to use the correct method of communication When you are carrying out client consultations

94 – 95

When you understand the barriers to communication When you know how to give good customer service and client care

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

The role of communication Introduction

Starting point Successful communication is not the use of one skill carried out on its own. It involves using several skills together such as speaking and listening.

Communication is something that most of us probably take for granted. Every time we communicate with someone, either face to face, on the telephone, through text messages or online, we transmit and exchange information. In today’s society, it would be difficult to survive and succeed without having the basic communication skills of speaking, listening, reading and writing. When we communicate we need to consider the needs of people around us and the society in which we live. It is a process of sharing ideas, thoughts and feelings with others and receiving responses that we can listen to or watch and, if appropriate, respond to. This section looks at the role of communication.

What is communication? Communication involves sending and receiving information. It takes place between two or more people using a variety of methods. It can be either spoken or written, use hand gestures, sign language or symbols. Communication can be either: ll one way, where information is sent by the communicator to the recipient, but there is no response and/or feedback, or ll two way, where the communicator sends a message to the recipient, who then responds to the communicator giving feedback that they have understood the message. This process then becomes a repetitive cycle as the recipient in turn becomes the communicator.

Communicator

sends message to

Recipient

sends message to

Recipient

One-way communication

Communicator

Recipient gives feedback to communicator that they have understood message Two-way communication

Good communication Communicating with others is usually something we do not think about – it happens naturally – but achieving good communication can be more difficult than it seems.

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

This is because when a message is sent, we assume that the recipient and the communicator are only sending and receiving one message but, in reality, it is more likely that the communicator and the recipient will be communicating and receiving several messages at once. For example, you could be talking to a client on the phone making an appointment, at the same time thinking of an order that needs to be placed with a supplier, while someone is trying to catch your attention to give you a message. These distractions are known as external noises, which take your attention away from concentrating on the messages that are being communicated and sent. This can result in communicated and received messages not being interpreted as the sender intended, and can have disastrous results, such as an appointment being made for the wrong day or at the wrong time. One way of knowing if communication has been sent and/or received successfully is for the recipient to give feedback to the sender. To obtain feedback, the sender could simply ask the recipient a question or watch their body language or facial expressions as they receive the message.

Communication in the hair and beauty industries It is essential for hair and beauty professionals to be able to communicate well with clients and with each other, whether conducting a client consultation or making appointments via the telephone or face to face. Communication involves questioning: for example, asking clients about their needs and the services and products they require, and giving professional advice in return. You may be asked your opinion, or you may have some news about a new product to tell a client. Communication also includes giving and receiving instructions or commands.

Did you know? Hair and beauty professionals usually have well-developed communication skills, typically because they enjoy talking and being with and around people.

Over to you Communication skills

Working on your own, reflect on your communication skills and make notes on how you think you could improve them. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, RL, CT

Jargon buster

Reflecting on your communication

Transmit and exchange send and receive

At the end of a busy day, it is sometimes a good idea to reflect on the communication methods you used and how well you communicated.

Recipient person receiving the communication

ll Could you have listened more carefully to what someone was telling you?

External noise when there are lots of distractions taking place while you are trying to communicate with someone

ll Did you really understand what you were being told? ll Did the message you wanted to convey get across to the recipients? This will help you to become aware of what you need to change to be more effective. If you want to find out about your own communication skills, ask a friend or a colleague to give you feedback as this is one of the best ways to improve your communication skills.

Check it out 1. How do you know if a verbal message that you have sent has been received? 2. What are the differences between one-way and two-way communication? 3. Why is it important for hair and beauty professionals to have good communication skills? 83

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Types and methods of communication 1 Introduction

Starting point In the hair and beauty industries, there are different types and methods of communication that can be used to connect with clients.

Think about a recent conversation that you had with someone face to face. What did it consist of? Words? Gestures? Touch? When we communicate we usually combine verbal and and non-verbal communication. This section looks at both these types, the skills required to communicate – speaking, listening, reading, writing, interpersonal – and how we know if our communication has been successful.

Verbal communication Verbal communication involves the use of words, either written or spoken. It is good for communicating ideas and opinions. Anyone entering the hair and beauty industries must be able to hold a conversation with a client. The way you speak to someone can affect their mood so, for example, talking to a client in a friendly way will encourage them to interact with you. Once you have found common ground, such as holidays or pets, you can remember this for their next visit. The art of conversation is a difficult skill to master. Clients do not want to listen to someone who constantly talks about themselves or talks about inappropriate subjects. Equally, many clients will not want to have a professional who does not talk at all and comes across as being dull and uninterested. A good professional should get to know their clients and the topics of conversation to use with them, and how much to talk to them. Some clients like to be pampered and/or entertained; others prefer to sit quietly and read.

Jargon buster Body language facial expressions, hand gestures, eye contact used when speaking Comfort zone an individual’s personal space Eye contact looking someone in the eyes when speaking to them Posture the way we stand or sit

Non-verbal communication This method of communication does not use words. Instead, it uses body language to show how someone is feeling. Ninety per cent of what we say is ‘said’ through the way that we hold or conduct ourselves, including hand gestures, facial expressions, eye contact, tone of voice and touch. This type of communication also includes sign language. Non-verbal communication complements verbal communication: for example, smiling at someone shows that you are pleased to see them. As a hair or beauty professional, it is important to manage your body language well. The way you stand, facial expressions and hand gestures will show a client how you feel about them. Having good body language does not mean being over-familiar with someone. Everyone has their own individual space that they feel comfortable in – their comfort zone – and as a professional you should be aware of this and not cross it. Some people may feel threatened if you do so. Eye contact is an important aspect of body language. When you are talking to someone you should always try to hold contact with them with your eyes. Not having eye contact and constantly looking somewhere else or at other people can appear as though you are not interested. Equally, you do not want to stare at someone as this might make you appear aggressive.

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Picture this Trying to do too much at once

Oliver, 16, is a trainee apprentice in a barber’s shop. His job role includes reception duties. On his first day at the salon, no one explained the correct way to answer the phone or how to use the computerised booking system to make appointments, so Oliver tried to pick things up as he went along.

When you are standing or sitting all day you need to be conscious of your posture. It is important to have good posture because this will affect the way you work. If your shoulders are hunched and you slouch, this could give the impression that you are not actively involved in what you are doing. Poor posture can also cause your body to ache, which can have a negative effect on communication because your discomfort can come across in both verbal and non-verbal gestures.

How do you know if communication has been effective? Successful, or effective, communication is when the message you want to give to a client or colleague is received and understood and the desired result is achieved. For communication to be effective, the message needs to be clearly spoken or written and appropriate to the situation, purpose and audience. The recipient’s verbal and non-verbal responses will also show if the communication has been successful. For example, if the client nods their head, smiles and confirms what you are saying, then you know you are saying or doing the right thing. Unsuccessful, or ineffective, communication is when the message given to a client or colleague is misunderstood and the result is not the one that is desired. This could be because the communicator did not speak clearly enough, perhaps because of a dialect or accent, or they might appear unfriendly, moody or uninterested. It could also be because the recipient has preconceived ideas and opinions – for example, they might not like the communicator, so dislike what they are saying. The verbal and non-verbal responses of the recipient will also indicate if the communication has been unsuccessful. If they frown, shake their head and verbally disagree with what is said, then the communication has been ineffective. In this situation, it is important to work out what has gone wrong so as not to make things worse. Badly written instructions can also affect communication.

On one particularly busy day, John Smith, rang to make an appointment. Oliver, who was making a cup of tea for a customer, hurriedly answered the phone. The customer told Oliver that he wanted his appointment for 11.30 on 3 July with Jack (he’d been recommended by a friend) and that he was booking his appointment several weeks in advance because he wanted to be sure he got the day, time and stylist of his choice. Since Oliver didn’t know how to use the computerised booking system, he scribbled the appointment details on a piece of paper:

J Smith 3rd at 1.30 with J He asked Jack if he would put the booking onto the system and gave him the piece of paper. As he was busy, Jack said he would do it tomorrow. The following day Jack tried to read the message. He had difficulty reading Oliver’s writing and because Oliver hadn’t written down a contact number, he wasn’t sure which J Smith the appointment was for – the salon has two regular clients with the surname Smith, Joseph and Jesse. Jack couldn’t ask Oliver because he was now on holiday for two weeks. 1. What are the main communication issues in this scenario? 2. How has Oliver been let down by his employers? 3. How should Oliver have made the appointment? 4. What mistakes did Oliver make when taking the telephone call? 5. How could this situation have been improved? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, TW, RL 85

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Types and methods of communication 2 Communication skills Interpersonal

Listening

Speaking

Communication skills

Writing

Reading

The skills we use when communicating

Did you know? Of all the communication skills we use, we spend most time listening to what others have to say and trying to interpret the messages they are giving.

Listening skills As a hair and beauty professional, you will need to listen carefully to what clients are saying so you can give them the service that they want. When listening to a client, make sure that the setting is appropriate: for example, loud background music could affect your ability to hear clearly. Listening carefully will ensure the client is happy with the service and save time later dealing with a dissatisfied client. When listening to a client: ll demonstrate to them that you are paying attention to what they are saying ll use non-verbal signs such us nodding and smiling ll watch for their responses. If necessary, ask the client to repeat or clarify what they have said.

Speaking skills It is important to speak clearly to a client so that they understand the message you are giving them. Here are some points to remember. ll When having a conversation with a colleague or client, always try to speak slowly, especially on the telephone or when leaving a message. It is annoying to receive a message that you cannot understand because the caller spoke too quickly. ll Remember to respect the age group of the person you are talking to and use language that they will understand. ll How you speak to your friends will be different and more informal than when you talk to a client. When talking to a colleague or client always be aware of the tone of your voice. Using an inappropriate tone can change the message you intended to give.

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Reading skills You will need to be able to read and understand manufacturers’ instructions so that you can use products and equipment safely. Trade magazines and journals give up-to-date information on the latest products and services so that you can inform your clients. Reading novels and biographies will also give you topics of conversation.

Writing skills It is essential to write clearly so that colleagues can read appointment bookings and record cards correctly. If the writing is scribbled, then mistakes could be made – a client’s appointment could be booked incorrectly or the wrong product used, for example. When you give the client an appointment card with the date and time of their appointment, it needs to be written legibly. You will also neet to leave messages, create signs, write lists, make notes – your writing skills will be used countless times every day, so you need to be able to express yourself clearly and accurately, on paper and on screen. You also need to have satisfactory writing skills to write a letter of application for a job; how clearly and persuasively you write the letter and how neat your handwriting is will give the employer a good first impression. When an employer reads badly written letters with poor handwriting, they are likely to throw them in the waste paper bin.

Interpersonal skills Hair and beauty businesses expect their staff to have practical skills and, just as importantly, interpersonal skills. When dealing with clients and colleagues, you need to remember that you are part of a team. It’s essential to be friendly, tactful and polite at all times. You should also give consideration to others’ needs and be sensitive to their beliefs and backgrounds. All team members need to know the line management structure and to be able to work within the structure. Good interpersonal skills will encourage clients to return and make going to work an enjoyable experience.

Showing your personality When applying for jobs, your letter of application and style of writing can show an employer what type of person you are. Your interpersonal skills can also be assessed at interview. Once you have got through the personality test, you will then be asked to demonstrate your practical skills.

Personal presentation First impressions are important. Your image and personal presentation tell an employer a lot about you. If you wish to succeed, you need to make sure that your image and presentation show you at your best and help you to communicate successfully. Nowadays, most hair and beauty businesses have a dress code, either a uniform or a colour theme.

Jargon buster Clarify explain further Interpersonal skills personal and social skills; sometimes known as people skills Line management structure the person who you report to in an organisation, e.g. a supervisor

Over to you Tone test

In pairs, listen to how you both speak and how things can sound differently depending on the tone of voice. Make a note of which gives a positive feeling and which gives a negative feeling. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: CT, TW

Check it out 1. What are the five types of communication skill? 2. What does tone of voice mean? 3. Describe non-verbal communication 4. How do you feel if someone gets into your comfort zone? 5. Which two communication skills are used the most when having a conversation?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Barriers to communication Introduction

Starting point There are many barriers to communication in everyday life.

A barrier to communication is any obstacle that prevents the sending, receiving and understanding of a message. The barrier may be physical (for example, loud music in the background) or psychological, with problems about how the message is created or interpreted. Whatever the barrier, the best way to overcome it is to make sure that you actively use all your communication skills, listening carefully to what is being said and responding in a clear, focused way.

Language barriers Sometimes people find it difficult to communicate effectively because of a hearing or speech impairment. Such barriers may be difficult to overcome, but you must make sure that you are fully informed about these disabilities and that you try to do everything possible to help those affected.

Jargon buster Impairment disability Acronym abbreviation of a name or title, using the first letters of each word: for example, the Hair and Beauty Industry Authority is known as Habia Miscommunication incorrect information

A person may have difficulty communicating because they cannot understand the words being spoken – the words may not be in their vocabulary – abbreviations are being used, or the words may be inappropriate. The person may not speak English as their first language or they may have difficulty understanding a different dialect or strong, regional accent. Even if someone is not speaking the same language as you, you can overcome this barrier by using hand signals and gestures or diagrams. Diagrams are a sure way of getting a message across as they are easily understood. Using slang, jargon and acronyms can also affect how communication is understood.

Emotional barriers Communication can be blocked because of a difference in attitudes, beliefs and values. It may be that the client is upset or angry about a service they have received and are shouting or swearing at you. If people are distressed or worried about something, such as a relationship break-up or an illness, this can affect communication because they have something major on their mind. If a colleague is going through a rough patch, it can also affect the morale of the rest of the team and this is where you could practise your listening skills by offering to be someone to talk to.

Miscommunication Miscommunication can happen, particularly in a chain of salons where information given to one salon is inconsistent with information given to another in the chain. This can usually be resolved by having regular team meetings and by making sure that all staff are well informed. If communication methods are poor, the salons will not be able to operate efficiently and effectively within the chain.

Misinterpreting a set of instructions or what someone is saying can have serious consequences, so always double check if you do not understand something. Never make an assumption – your guess could be wrong! 88 M04_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 88

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Organisational barriers If the organisational structure of a salon is confusing and there is unclear line management, this will affect communication as staff members will not know who to report to. This can also lead to tension within the team and may have a damaging effect on the business.

Personality conflicts Poor management systems within a business can affect communication. If staff feel that they have not been consulted about issues that affect them, they can become demotivated which may lead to personality conflicts. Personality conflicts are very serious barriers to communication and need to be resolved as quickly as possible as they can affect other members of staff and clients can also be drawn into the conflict.

Jargon buster Organisational structure who staff report to in an organisation Demotivated lacking enthusiasm to do things

As mentioned earlier, to be a successful hair or professional, you need to be able to engage verbally with clients and come across as having a happy personality. However, if someone’s personality becomes too overpowering and they become opinionated, clients may find the person offensive, which will result in a breakdown in communication. Resistance to change can also affect how people respond to communication. Usually, people do not like change and see it as a threat to the lives that they are quite happy with.

Salon environment Other barriers to communication within a salon include: ll loud background music ll over/under-heated salon ll inadequate lighting.

Picture this Testing friendship

A group of friends meets regularly in the local café bar. One of the friends has started to bring a new colleague with them. The group wants to include the new person but finds them very opinionated. The person also talks a lot and isn’t interested in what others have to say. In small groups, discuss the above scenario. Make notes on how you would deal with the following situation. Be prepared to feed back to the rest of the group Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: CT, TW

Whatever the barriers, you must try to overcome these obstacles by thinking about the best ways to deal with each situation.

Check it out 1. What are the consequences of not communicating clearly? 2. How does a person’s attitude affect communication? 3. What action should be taken if you encounter a barrier to communication? 89

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Adapting communication Introduction

Starting point One enjoyable aspect of working in the hair and beauty industries is that two clients or two days are never the same.

To meet the needs of differing clients, you will have to be flexible in how you communicate with them. For example, one client may talk a lot so you have to listen attentively, whereas another client may prefer to listen, so you have to make the conversation. In this section, you will learn how to adapt your communication methods depending on the situation.

Responding to complaints If customers are unhappy with a service or product, they may complain. It may be a verbal complaint face to face or over the telephone, or a written complaint via letter or email. However the complaint is received, you must learn how to respond appropriately. When clients complain they will often be angry, so you must stay calm and use your communication skills. If the conversation is face to face or on the telephone, listen carefully to what the client has to say, then repeat back to them what you understand. If you cannot deal with the issue straightaway tell the client that you will look into the complaint and get back to them as soon as possible. Remember to take their contact details and pass them to the appropriate person. If the complaint is written you can respond by sending a letter or an email. You will need to have clear, neat handwriting, good spelling and grammar and/or competent computer skills.

Communication methods There are many ways to get information across to clients, whether to an individual or to a group. To friends and family, you may like to use informal methods such as text messages or social networking sites. With an individual client, you may use a more formal method such as writing a letter or phoning them. When dealing with a supplier, you could send a fax or have a meeting. If you needed to have a meeting with staff in other salons, you might use video conferencing as a method of communication.

Advertising Hair and beauty businesses can attract new clients using mass communication to communicate with a lot of people at the same time. There are many media that can be used for this type of communication, such as advertising in a local newspaper or a national glossy magazine, or a television or radio advertising campaign to get the message across. The most up-to-date businesses these days use the internet, with many having a website that communicates messages to both new and existing clients. All these methods cost money and need to be budgeted for carefully.

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Health and safety posters and leaflets When a business has to communicate important health and safety messages to employees, clients and delivery personnel, the message should be clear and simple and, where possible, use diagrams. Posters and leaflets are a good way of getting this type of information across. A poster with clear diagrams can be easily understood, no matter what language you speak. Most people understand the traffic light system of warning – red being the colour of danger. Symbols are also internationally recognised, with a cross having a negative meaning. So, if you see both red and a cross together, it means stop, do not use or do not enter.

Over to you Money talks

Working on your own, find out how much it would cost to advertise: ll in a local newspaper ll in a national glossy magazine ll on local radio ll on national television.

This sign would be recognised internationally – whatever language people speak

Popular communication methods

Find out what you would need either to design your own web page or to have one designed for you. Then make a chart showing the advantage and disadvantages of each form of advertising.

Method

Uses

Poster

For important information such as health and safety messages

Mail shot

To communicate with a large group of people, e.g. newsletter, flier, brochure

Memo

An informal way of communicating with staff, e.g. asking them to keep the staff room tidy

Jargon buster

Letter

A formal way of communicating with people, e.g. dealing with complaints

Report

A formal way of communicating information within a business

Video conferencing technology that allows people in different locations to hold a meeting

Email

A quick method that can inform a lot of people at once, e.g. a client promotion

Text messaging

A quick method that can inform an individual, e.g. that they have a appointment due

Telephone

A quick way to get in contact with someone, e.g. when you want to contact a supplier to make an order

Internet

To advertise and inform a wide audience, e.g. the products and services a business offers

Intranet

An online method of communication within a business

Audio/video tape, CD, DVD

To give instructions to new staff at induction, e.g. health and safety messages

Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT

Campaign an organised course of action Induction training and instructions given to a new member of staff

Check it out 1. Describe mass communication. 2. Who would you send a text message to? 3. When would it be appropriate to use a poster to get a message across? 4. Why is using symbols a good way to get a message across? 91

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Customer service and satisfaction Introduction

Starting point Customer service and client care is all about how you serve and look after clients

Customer service and client care skills are crucial to ensure contented clients. Both sets of skills are transferable, which means you will be able to take them from one job to another. In this section, you will find out the importance of excellent customer service and client care skills. Once you have achieved these, they will serve you well in your career.

Customer service Being able to communicate effectively with clients and offer them good customer service is essential to success in any of the hair and beauty industries. If a customer is welcomed and served well, they will want to return to the salon. They will also tell their friends, which will promote the business and increase sales of services and products.

What makes good customer service? Customer service is concerned with how you care for your clients and, over a period of time, get to know what they like and dislike. It starts from the minute the client enquires about an appointment.

Jargon buster Transferable something that can be moved from place to place

First contact The first contact a client may have with you and the salon is via a telephone call. How long the phone rings for and how the client is spoken to is very important. If the phone is unanswered after 4–6 rings, then the call should go to an answer machine. The salon should have a standard greeting: for example, ‘Good morning, Cherry Blossom Day Spa, Mia speaking. How may I help you?’

Did you know? Clients make up their minds about a salon within the first ten seconds of walking through the door.

Always be polite when talking to clients

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Meeting and greeting The next important stage is when the client enters the salon and is greeted at reception. Clients want to receive a warm, sincere welcome. Never leave a client standing at reception for too long – no matter how busy you are, they need to be attended to straight away. Clients should always be treated as though it is their first visit to the salon. It creates a positive image if they are quickly booked into the salon, offered a seat, something to drink and an up-to-date magazine to look at.

Complete care As soon as the client arrives, all staff that they come into contact with should act in a way that promotes the business, its services and products. In this way, all members of the team work together to build the business’s reputation, encouraging clients to return time and time again.

Customer satisfaction Every client expects to receive a reliable and consistent service. A reputable hair and beauty business will have its own vision, and often it is a good idea to communicate this to clients: for example, ‘Cherry Blossom Day Spa strives to give 100% client satisfaction.’

Obtaining feedback from customers One way of finding out what clients think of the business and the service and products if offers is to conduct regular customer satisfaction surveys in which the customers are asked the same set of questions. Customer service surveys are commonly done via the client completing a questionnaire. The simpler the questionnaire, the better, with tick boxes for yes or no answers. You can get the client to fill out the questionnaire while they are in the salon or they could be sent out through the post.

Over to you Are you being served?

In small groups, discuss when you have received good customer service and how you felt, then discuss when you have received poor customer service and how you felt. Then decide how you could establish whether the clients in the workplace are pleased with the services they receive. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, TW

Focus groups can also be used as a customer satisfaction tool. A focus group involves getting together a small group of clients and asking them a set of questions on what they think of the services they receive. Telephoning a client after they have had a treatment is another good way to get feedback. If you conduct surveys for a specific period of time on a specific topic – for example, how they were greeted when they entered the salon – once the time period is up, you can analyse all the feedback and look to see whether improvements could be made. One of the most important customer service and client care skills is to be able to communicate with the client. You will constantly need to think of the client that is front of you. They need to be made to feel special and have your full attention, as a happy client will return for repeat business. Use your client’s full name and title and do not become over familiar. ll Try to remember something about your client so each time that they come in you can talk about the topic. ll Always listen to what they are saying and maintain eye contact. ll Most of all, treat them with respect. A satisfied client is more likely to have trust and confidence in you and therefore will be open to having other services or buying the products that you recommend.

Check it out 1. What methods could you use to gain feedback from clients? 2. Why is it important to get to know clients? 3. How long should a telephone ring before it is answered? 4. What methods could be used to gain feedback from a client?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Client consultation Introduction

Starting point A consultation is an advisory service.

A consultation is a set amount of time given to a new or existing client so that two-way communication can take place between the client and the hair or beauty professional. The consultation is free of charge and usually lasts 10–15 minutes. The professional’s time is booked out to allow the consultation to take place. The consultation can be carried out either days before the treatment or just before the treatment. This section looks at consultations, record cards, client confidentiality and the terminology used during a consultation.

A consultation should be carried out professionally

The consultation Over to you Consultation role-play

In pairs, act out a role-play situation where one of you is the client and the other the hair or beauty professional. Conduct a consultation, using a record card to record your findings. When you have finished the consultation, swap roles. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, EP, TW

During the consultation, the client can tell the professional what their requirements and expectations are of the service, and the professional can confirm if these expectations and requirements are possible. This two-way communication is essential, as vital information will be gained, by appropriate questioning: for example, what contra-indications the client may have or whether a skin test is required. It is essential the professional listens carefully to what the client is saying and is not distracted. If the client’s expectations of the service are unrealistic, they should be offered other products and services better suited to their needs. To be able to do this without upsetting or offending the client is an important communication skill.

Making a good impression When carrying out a consultation, remember that first impressions count. The client will notice whether the professional is dressed smartly, with neat and tidy hair and make-up. ll Wearing too much make-up can be as off-putting as wearing none. ll Hands should be clean and nails clipped – overlong nails or bitten nails give a poor impression.

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

ll Keep jewellery to a minimum, as it can harbour germs and could also catch the client’s skin. ll Perfume should be light and fresh, not overpowering. ll Oral hygiene is also very important – always make sure that you regularly clean your teeth and visit the dentist for regular check-ups. ll Finally, be aware of your verbal and non-verbal communication and ensure that you conduct yourself in a professional manner.

The record card A record card of the client’s personal details should be completed during the consultation. The information will vary depending on the type of service, but generally most record cards should include: ll the client’s name, address and contact details ll the name of the operator

Picture this A professional is carrying out a consultation with a client and is using technical terms. The client is looking confused, and clearly does not understand what the terms mean.

ll the signature of the client and stylist or therapist

On your own, think how you could overcome this situation.

ll the date

Functional Skills Links: English

ll a record of the treatments given and any contra-indications.

PLTS Links: IE

This card is then kept as a record and updated after every service. It should also include any products that the client purchased. The record card must be stored in a locked filing cabinet that is secured and away from the general public. The information it contains is protected by the Data Protection Act, 1998 (see Unit 6, pages 126 – 7). Failing to comply with this Act is serious and could result in a prison sentence.

Technical terms During the consultation, the client will also be aware of the terminology you are using, so keep it clear and simple. While it is important to show the client that you know what you are talking about, using too many technical terms can be off putting, particularly if the client does not understand what they mean and is too embarrassed to ask. This could lead to a communication breakdown.

Client confidentiality When carrying out a consultation, any personal information the client discloses to you must be kept confidential at all times. Be careful of discussing clients with other colleagues in an informal way. Always keep the conversation professional. To disclose this information to anyone else would result in a severe breach of trust – you must comply with the Data Protection Act. To break client confidentiality could severely affect the stylist or therapist’s professional reputation and may result in other clients losing confidence in them and taking their custom elsewhere.

Jargon buster Contra-indication a condition or ailment that restricts or makes it inadvisable to carry out a service Terminology words used to name things in a particular industry Technical terms the language used in a particular industry, or jargon Confidential keep secret

Check it out 1. Why is it important for a consultation to take place? 2. How long should a consultation take? 3. What does client confidentiality mean to you? 95

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by:

ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

In this unit you covered a range of information about communication and client care. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

The role of communication

Types and methods of communication Barriers to communication

Adapting communication

Customer service and satisfaction

Client consultation

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your verbal and non-verbal communication. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own communication skills in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in communicating. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal, Learning and Thinking Skills.

Unit 4 questions The role of communication

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

1.

Step 2 – Take action

2.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

3.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help. Step 3 – Review again

Types and methods of communication

Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1?

1.

Am I more confident with the unit?

2.

Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples.

3. Barriers to communication

1. 2. 3. Adapting communication

1.

1. Did I manage to master the skills to be able to communicate effectively?

2.

2. What could I improve on?

3.

3. Where shall I look for help?

To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

Customer service and satisfaction

1. 2. 3. Client consultation

1. 2. 3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 4 is Internal. Your tutor/practitioner/teacher will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, which shows your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief. Within the assessment you must demonstrate knowledge and understanding of:

ll communication methods

ll communication skills for different situations and audiences ll barriers to communication ll customer service ll customer satisfaction ll the consultation process. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset, so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

ll types of communication

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Know the role and types of communication in business

You will need to identify roles and types of communication

You will need to clearly and accurately describe the different roles and types of communication used in business

Demonstrate a range of communication skills for different situations, including those required to maintain a safe working environment

You will need to demonstrate a range of communication skills for different situations and audiences and use appropriate communication skills, collaborating with colleagues to maintain a safe environment

You will need to demonstrate a wide range of appropriate and well-chosen communication skills to different situations and audiences

Understand the role of communication for effective customer service

You will need to evaluate the role of customer service and client care and explain a range of communication skills considered to be contributing to customer satisfaction

You will need to provide a detailed and thorough evaluation of the role of customer service and effective client care

You will need to carry out consultations in relation to services provided, using application of appropriate terminology considered to be best practice

You will need to carry out appropriate consultations clearly and effectively in relation to services provided independent of tutor assistance

Carry out consultations with clients in relation to different hair, beauty and nail services

You will need to use clear, reasoned and appropriate communication skills collaborating with colleagues, to maintain a safe environment

You will need to provide a comprehensive explanation of the range of communication skills considered in contributing to customer satisfaction

You will need to apply accurate and appropriate terminology and detailed consideration of related best practice

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UNIT 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to demonstrate communication methods and skills for different situations and audiences. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your teacher regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessments they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l Communication in a multi-cultural society l The pros and cons of communicating via the media l The psychology of body language

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 5 History of hair and beauty in society

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UNIT 5 HISTORY OF HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SOCIETY

Introduction The hair and beauty industries are constantly changing, which makes it an exciting sector to work in. Developments and advances in technology have seen changes to the products and services offered and in the results that customers can expect. Social and economic changes have led to rapid growth in the sector, with more people having services and buying products. To fully appreciate the hair and beauty sector, it is important to have a good understanding of the key historical events and influences that have taken the industries to where they are today. In this unit, you will learn about the history of hair and beauty in society. You will investigate how historical, cultural, social, technological and economic influences have affected the delivery of services today. You will also find out how historical and iconic developments, both in the past and more recently, have impacted on the sector. You will then be able to explore a chosen era of history in more detail by identifying looks and trends within the hair and beauty industries. You will use what you have learned from your chosen era, along with skills in dressing hair, make-up or nail design, to help you plan, design and create an image. You will present your image to your peers for feedback.

Page number

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section

LO1:

Cultural and social influences

102 – 105

Technical and economic influences

106 – 107

Historical and iconic developments

108 – 109

Understand the ways in which cultural, social, technical and economic factors have influenced the delivery of hair and beauty services

LO2: Understand the impact of historical and iconic developments on the hair and beauty sector LO3: Be able to create an image influenced by history, key developments and iconic landmarks

Trends and developments

110 – 111

Creating an image

112 – 115

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art When you are exploring the history of hair and beauty in society When you are preparing and carrying out services When you are creating an image

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Cultural and social influences Introduction

Starting point How many hairstyles and looks can you think of that have been popularised by a celebrity?

In this section, you will explore the cultural and social influences that have impacted on the hair and beauty industries. The industries as we know them today have evolved over the course of history, and the treatments and services that we offer have been directly influenced by what our customers want. Changes in our society directly influence the hair and beauty services that are delivered, and social factors such as celebrity and media influences, fashion trends and an ever-ageing population have all impacted on the industries. Cultural influences such as migration, youth culture and ethnicity have led to changes in the types of service and products offered. Hair and beauty professionals need to have an understanding of how and why the industries have developed to the stage where they are today, and you will be expected to know how social and cultural factors have influenced and shaped the industries.

Factors that have influenced the delivery of hair and beauty services Jargon buster Cultural people with shared beliefs and practices Society a community of people Migration to move or relocate to another country Ethnicity/ethnic a person’s inherited background Multi-cultural many different cultures

The hair and beauty industries are ‘customer led’. This means that our customers directly affect the services and products we offer through their demands. But what affects our customers? They are influenced by many factors such as finances, where they live and celebrities and media. These influences have changed over history and have all contributed to today’s industries.

Cultural factors Ethnicity and migration As our society has become multi-cultural, the hair and beauty sector has had to adapt. Some treatments and services are more popular with, or even specific to, certain ethnic groups: for example, African-Caribbean hair styling. A customer’s ethnic background can impact on the type of hair, nail or skin concerns they have. This may mean that a hair business will need to re-train staff or employ a specialist to offer such services.

Socio-economic class Many years ago, hair and beauty businesses were few and far between and were considered a luxury, only for those who could afford it. Throughout history, hair and beauty services have been described as being only for rich and noble people. Now, it is one of the fastest growing industries and is accessible to everybody. Regular beauty services such as waxing, manicures, pedicures and hair services such as highlights are now frequently considered to be a necessity.

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Youth culture Hair and beauty treatments used to be directed at a more mature customer, particularly in earlier times when wealth and status often came with age. Now, it is not uncommon for hair and beauty services such as manicures and skin care treatments to be designed for customers as young as 8–9 years old. Young people today are exposed to fashion and image and influenced by the celebrity culture through access to the internet. As a result, they tend to be more aware of their personal appearance.

Male customers As little as 20 years ago, it would have been relatively unheard of for a male customer to have any hair or beauty service beyond a basic hair cut. Today, it has become the fastest growing sector in the industries. There has been a yearly increase in sales of products and services specifically directed at men, with many hair and beauty businesses opening up just to cater for this market. In fact, this is not a new phenomenon; it can be traced back to ancient times, when hair and beauty services were mainly for men.

Over to you Specialised skills In small groups, find out about the African-Caribbean hair industry in your area. Present your information to show: ll What percentage of the population in your area may use this service. ll How many businesses offer African-Caribbean hair services. ll Explain the different services available. ll Explain how you would learn this skill. Use ICT to present and discuss your findings with your peers. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, TW Male grooming In small groups, find out about hair and beauty products through history to modern times that have been designed specifically for the male market. Use your findings to create a timeline to show how male grooming has developed. Present and discuss your findings using ICT. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, TW

Did you know? Men spend an average of 51 minutes each day on grooming compared to 54 minutes for women. A popular back treatment for male clients, direct high frequency helps improve acne, oily, and congested skin

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Cultural and social influences 2 Social factors Jargon buster Demography size, structure and distribution of the population in a country Disposable income the money that you have left over to spend on non-essential things

Demography The size, structure and distribution of the population – its demography – directly affect who your customers are.

Population size The population in the UK has increased from around six million in the 18th century to around 61 million today. Obviously, the more people there are, the greater the demand for services. This has impacted on the growth and development of hair and beauty services.

Population structure While more young people than ever before are having hair and beauty treatments, it is the ‘baby boomers’ that dominate. These are the customers aged 45–63 who currently make up 25% of the UK population. These customers generally have more disposable income and more time to visit hair and beauty businesses, and many successful businesses have been built up around them, offering anti-ageing types of skin and nail treatments and hair colouring services.

Population distribution In early history it was usual for the hair or beauty professional to visit the customer; it was only with the increase in business and popularity that shops began to open. The industry also benefitted from modern transport, allowing customers to venture further than their own village or town.

Fashion trends As fashions change, so do the services that hair and beauty businesses offer. In the 18th century, elaborate wigs were all the rage for both men and women, and that would have led to a growth in the wig-making industry. In recent times, fashion trends for nail extensions, self-tanning treatments and hair extensions have meant that more hair and beauty businesses are training staff to offer these services, and more new businesses specialising in these services can be found.

Trends in body image and health As customers have become more health and body conscious, the demand for treatments that aid health and wellbeing, instead of just beautifying or grooming, has grown. As a result of this trend, the spa industry has been a recent growth area, along with holistic therapies. This area of the industry focuses on offering a range of services that aim to promote overall health. The types of services offered have also been affected by body image and health trends, with a more recent focus on advanced treatments to improve the shape and contours of the face and body. From a health perspective, our lives and jobs have become more demanding over time, and many customers now look for services that will reduce their stress levels and improve their health.

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Over to you Demographic influences

Hot stone therapy has grown increasingly popular as people have become more health and body conscious

Global media and celebrities This aspect of celebrity culture is not new but, with access to the internet and television, hair and beauty trends across the globe are much more accessible to customers, and celebrities can heavily influence them and their aims! Customers frequently arrive with a magazine cut-out of a celebrity hairstyle or make-up look they would like to copy! Your ability to manage customers’ expectations can really be tested!

In small groups, find out about the demographics in your area. Consider the age, ethnicity, gender and income of the population. Use this information to work out what demand you think there might be for each of the six hair and beauty industries: today in 20 years’ time. Display this information using graphs or pie charts. Compare with other groups and discuss and justify your results. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, RL, TW

Check it out 1. Explain some of the ways that cultural factors have influenced the delivery of hair and beauty services. 2. How has youth culture in particular impacted on the hair and beauty sector? 3. How does demographic change influence hair and beauty businesses? 4. What are some of the key trends today that have influenced the industries? 5. What impact do celebrities have on the hair and beauty industries?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Technical and economic influences Introduction

Starting point Many technological advances in the beauty industry started out in the world of medicine.

In this section, you will explore how technical and economic factors have influenced the delivery of hair and beauty services. Technological advances in both products and equipment have had a major impact on the types of services that are offered and the results that can be achieved. The introduction of advanced equipment and iconic products has changed the face of the hair and beauty industries. The hair and beauty sector is often one of the first areas to be affected by changes in the economy. Factors such as employment levels and customers’ disposable income all have an effect on the growth of the industries. As the world has become a smaller place, it is important to recognise that global, as well as national, economic health can impact on the hair and beauty industries.

Technical factors

Jargon buster Economic financial Technological to do with tools and methods Iconic famous, trend setting Exchange rate the value of one currency compared with another

From the ancient Egyptians, who used beeswax to style their hair, sitting in the sun until it dried hard holding a style in place, to Elizabethan women who risked blood poisoning by using white lead to colour their faces, technical advances in products and equipment have had a major impact on the industries.

Modern developments Effects that can be achieved with modern equipment and products include: ll skin improvement ll anti-ageing ll flawless self-tanning ll creating and repairing nails ll hair straightening.

The development of hair straighteners has popularised the current trend for smooth straight hair

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These advances have not only increased the expectations and demands of customers but have added to the level of education and training needed by professionals in the industry. Airbrushing

Micro dermabrasion

Non-surgical face lifts

Spray tanning

Equipment

Hair straighteners

Advances in technology have led to a range of services using the latest equipment

Acrylics

Retinol

Fruit acids

Perm lotion

Products

Hair mousse

Hair gels

Hair relaxant

Popular products used in today’s hair and beauty industries

Economic factors Global and national economic health A healthy economy generally means that people are secure in their jobs and have more money to spend. In ancient times, this was not a consideration for hair and beauty services as they were generally for wealthy, noble people. Today, the internet and air travel have made the world a much smaller place, and the financial health of one country can affect another.

Economic development, employment and disposable income Over time, the world economy has developed and grown with the population. A higher population increases the demand for services, which leads to an increase in the number of jobs. Higher employment levels are a direct result of economic development. When people are working, they have more disposable income.

Exchange rates Exchange rates impact on the cost of trade which, in turn, affects the cost of products and equipment. In the recent past, favourable exchange rates for the pound opened up the market. Products and equipment manufactured by other countries are commonly used in the hair and beauty industries.

Over to you Industry advances In small groups, choose one of the six hair and beauty industries and find out about the technological advances and developments of products for that industry. Using this information, explain how you think the advances have impacted on your chosen industry. Present this information using ICT and images. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, TW

Check it out 1. How do technical advances impact on customers? 2. How do technical advances impact on employees? 3. What influence does a healthy economy have on the hair and beauty sector? 4. How does the economy affect how much money customers spend? 107

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Historical and iconic developments Introduction

Starting point The traditional dress of a High Court judge, including a white wig, has its origins in the 17th century.

Many of the services, looks and styles that we see today have their origins in history. Some looks and styles considered to be ‘new’ are actually thousands of years old! In this section, you will investigate the historical and iconic developments in the hair and beauty industries and how they have impacted on the looks and styles of modern times.

Historical and iconic developments Egyptian era Cleopatra represents the hair and make-up that was common in this era. Hair was straight and blunt cut with a fringe, and dramatic eye make-up was used, with heavy black eyeliner and green and red eye shadow.

Greek era Men wore their hair short while women had long hair pulled back into a chignon or curled and loosely tied. Hair was often decorated with headbands or flowers. A pale skin was desirable; poisonous white lead was used for this! Connecting eyebrows were fashionable, enhanced with dark powder.

Roman era Corkscrew and ringlet curls were popular with women, with hair worn up and decorated with jewels. A bun worn at the back of the neck, called the Greek knot, became popular. Men’s hair was still short, although softer and neat beards were popular.

16th century The image of Queen Elizabeth I represents a strong trend in iconic hair and make-up of the era. Tightly curled, red-coloured hair became popular. Skin was whitened and lips were coloured a deep red, creating a striking look.

18th century White wigs became very popular worn by both men and women. Men would wear medium-length wigs, often tied at the neck with a black bow. Women’s wigs were elaborate with long ringlets. Make-up looks included pale skins, heavy eye make-up, dark ‘cupid’s bow’ lips and beauty spots.

In the 18th century, elaborate white wigs for women and men were the trend

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Victorian era Hair styles became more natural, with oiled, smooth hair loosely curled and styled by pulling to the back of the neck, or piled on top of the head. Neatness was important and hairnets were used to control curls. Plaits and braids also became popular. Make-up looked healthy and natural. Men kept their hair short and usually had facial hair and sideburns.

1920s Men’s hairstyles remained short and slicked back with a side parting, while women’s hair was short, bobbed and waved into styles such as the Shingle and Eton Crop. Make-up looks became stronger, with a powder matt complexion, lots of blusher and bright red lips.

1940s Men continued to have their hair very short and slicked back, although sometimes with height at the front. Women had shoulder-length or long hair, often waved. Working women wore their hair in a neat roll covered with a headscarf. Suntans became popular.

1960s Generally, men continued to have short hair, although the ‘hippie’ trend meant long hair decorated with flowers. Twiggy made the short ‘urchin’ cut popular, but long, straight hair was too. One of the iconic styles of the 1960s was the Beehive. Make-up trends were pale skin and lips but heavily made-up eyes.

1970s A variety of styles were popular, with some of the most iconic being Afro, Mohican, Purdey and Mullet. Men wore moustaches and long sideburns and grew their hair longer. Make-up was also varied, with bright, iridescent colours for the disco age, the extreme of punk or the more natural sun-kissed look.

1980s Perms, backcombed and bouffant hair styles for men and women were seen, although men’s hair was shorter. Asymmetrical cuts and side ponytails were popular. Fuller eyebrows were popular and make-up colours were bright, fluorescent and contrasting.

1990s Healthy looks were the key, with hair being worn straight, long and flat. The ‘Rachel cut’ and Meg Ryan’s mid-length style were popular. Men’s hair was often clipper-cut and goatee beards became popular. Make-up featured neutral colours and lip-gloss.

Did you know? In the 18th century, it was common for rats and mice to nest in women’s large elaborate wigs!

Jargon buster Iridescent shimmering colour

Over to you Past and present In pairs, identify two recent hair or beauty looks and styles. Then investigate the historical eras to identify links between the current looks and styles you have chosen and those from history. Present your information using images and ICT to answer the following questions: ll Explain how you think your chosen looks or styles are linked. ll Describe the key differences and similarities that you can see. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Which historical era first wore wigs and hairpieces? 2. When did women first start to have short hair? 3. Which era did the Beehive come from? 4. Which era was known for fluorescent make-up colours? 109

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Trends and developments Introduction

Starting point Did you know that the French manicure probably didn’t originate in France?

In this section, you will learn about the trends and developments in the hair and beauty industry through the ages, which will help you to understand how the industries have progressed through time. Throughout history, trends have been influenced by iconic people such as leaders, kings and queens. More recently, film stars, music icons and celebrities have led the way in hair and beauty fashion trends.

Hair trends Length, curl and straightness The trend for women’s hair was generally long or mid-length until the 1920s, when short hair first became fashionable. After this, hair lengths varied, although long hair was common through the 1970s and mid-length hair returned in the 1980s. Trends depended on the fashion icon of the time. The Egyptians favoured a straight look as this was the hair’s natural state and curling implements were limited. However, wigs and hairpieces were often curled. Curls were also popular in Greek and Roman times, as well as 16th and 18th centuries. From the 1920s to the 1950s, curls were replaced by more natural waves, with straight hair becoming fashionable again in the 1970s. The 1980s returned to curls with perms for men and women.

Colour and adornments Blonde hair has been a favourite throughout history, but Queen Elizabeth I’s red hair set the first colour trend. Bleach-blonde hair was popular again in the 1960s and a more natural look followed as highlights and lowlights became popular from the 1970s. Throughout history, hair has been decorated with flowers, jewels and clips. This was at its most extreme in the 18th century’s, elaborate wigs.

Make-up trends Lips Forms of lip colour have been used to darken the lips throughout history, with red being the most popular colour. The exception was the trend for very pale lips in the 1960s, followed by the more natural gloss look.

Eyes

Eye make-up has been popular throughout the centuries

Heavy eye make-up was first seen in Egyptian times. It returned in the 18th century to complement the elaborate wigs of the era. Eye make-up then became subtle until the start of the film industry in the 1920s. The 1960s saw a return to heavy eyeliner, while the 1970s and 1980s are remembered for their bright, eye make-up and coloured mascara.

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Skin colour The trend in ancient times was for pale skin, as it reflected your place in society; a tanned skin meant you worked outside and were lower class. In the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I set the trend with her naturally pale skin, and women applied white lead to achieve the colour. A sun-kissed look only became popular in the 1970s and this look has remained fashionable.

Nail trends Length Long nails became the trend around the 16th century onwards as a demonstration of wealth – it showed that the person did not have to do manual labour. During Victorian times, nails were shaped into a pointed tip called the ‘filbert’. Long nails remained popular until they became impractical when more women started to go out to work in the 1980s/90s, when shorter, square-shaped nails were preferred.

Colour Nail colour has been popular since Egyptian times, when henna was used to stain the nails. In the Victorian era, women buffed their nails with rose-coloured powder. The first nail polishes appeared in the 1920s. Initially, bright colours were considered to be suitable only for the lower classes, until film stars made long, red nails fashionable. This trend continued until the 1960s when light, frosted shades became popular, along with the French manicure. The 1980s/90s saw colour coming back in almost every shade, although dark reds and the French manicure have remained popular.

Spa trends Heat treatments Saunas and steam rooms date back over 1000 years with their origins in Finland and Turkey. The Romans developed the trend as we know it today, with heated public baths. Hot stones were introduced in the 1930s, but only became popular in the 1990s.

Massage Massage was used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans for relaxation and healing. It declined in popularity until the introduction of Swedish massage in the 19th century. Massage has continued to be a growing trend.

Over to you Your business Choose one era in history and find out about its hair and beauty trends and developments in detail. Using this information, create a hair and beauty service menu for your own business. List the services you will offer and give a brief description of each one. Use ICT to present your information or create a ‘price list’ style of display. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Holistic therapy

Check it out

The origins of many holistic therapies can be traced back thousands of years, but they have developed as part of the spa industry in the 1980s.

1. What was the trend for women’s hair in the 1920s? 2. What were the make-up trends of the 1960s? 3. When was nail polish first used? 4. When did massage become popular for the second time?

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Creating an image 1 Introduction

Starting point Max Factor is one of the best known names in the beauty industry and was responsible for creating iconic looks and trends.

Many of the services and products that are offered today have their roots in history. Knowledge of key developments and iconic landmarks will help you to understand how some of today’s popular looks and trends have emerged. In this section, you will also discover how modern influences have affected the industries. You will then choose one era in history to investigate further using your knowledge and skills in dressing hair, applying make-up or nail design to create an image based on the looks and trends of that era.

Eras in history You will need to choose one of the eras in history below to investigate further. You will use your knowledge and information to help you to create an image from your chosen era taking into account any key developments and iconic landmarks.

Jargon buster Landmarks important new developments Era particular period in history

Egyptian

Greek

Roman

16th century

18th century

Victorian

1920s

1940s

1960s

1970s

1980s

1990s

Key developments Hairdressing Straightening irons

Basic forms were used as early as the 1800s, although hair straighteners as we know them today were first used in 1912. The current trend for smooth straight hair has made these very popular recently.

Curling irons

Very early forms were used in Egyptian times when they were heated in fires and used to curl wigs and hair pieces. Throughout history, they have been used to create the curls and ringlets popular both in natural hair and wigs.

In small groups, choose one era in history and investigate the popular hairstyles from that era.

Crimpers

These are a ridged variation of the straightening irons and were very popular in the 1970/80s to create the ‘crimped’ look.

Choose one hairstyle and then find out about the hairdressing tools and equipment that were used to create the style. Compare these with what is available today.

Heated curlers

These were very popular in the 1960s for creating soft or tight curls, depending on the size of the rollers used.

Over to you Hairstyling tools

Use ICT to present your comparisons with images to show what you would need to create your chosen hairstyle today. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Spa therapy

In ancient history, water was considered pure and had religious significance. Hydrotherapy is one of the oldest treatments which uses water to soothe pains and treat skeletal and muscular disorders, but it only received scientific support about 30 years ago. Hot tubs. These first became popular for home use in 1950s’ America but were used in ancient Greece, Rome, China and Japan, either through organised use of hot springs or by using hot stones to heat the water in a specially designed tub. Roman baths are the most famous, as bathing became a social pastime. Jacuzzi. Named after the family that invented it, the first whirlpool bath was introduced in the 1960s.

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Over to you Make-up looks

The jacuzzi is a popular spa therapy

In small groups, choose one historical era and investigate make-up looks and trends for that era. Source images to help you sketch a make-up design for your chosen era, then investigate the types of products and equipment you will need to achieve the look. Present your findings to your peers for discussion.

Beauty therapy

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics

Mud packs

Used since the 19th century as body and face treatments. They are used for drawing out impurities and deep cleansing as well as for their re-mineralising properties.

Stay-on make-up

A range of long-lasting foundations and lipsticks became popular towards the end of the 1990s.

Mascara

Advances in mascara formulations include fibres that build the length of the lashes.

Lip-gloss

This shimmery make-up look became popular in the 1950s, with lip-gloss being used over darker lip colours. The 1960s saw glosses used over pale lips, with a return to gloss over darker colours by the 1970s.

Airbrush

This technique revolutionised the application of fake tan, giving a streak-free, smooth finish.

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW Ancient skills Find out about three different types of braiding or weaving techniques for African-Caribbean hair. Explain how to prepare for, achieve and maintain these techniques. Use media, images and ICT to present your findings to your peers for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

African-Caribbean Braiding, weaves and knots – these techniques and looks are hundreds of years old and were traditionally passed down through families, although the Afro style made a comeback in the 1970s and again in modern times. Today, these looks are very popular for both African-Caribbean and Caucasian hair.

Barbering Razors and shaving – early forms of razors were used in Egyptian times and the popularity for men to remove facial hair has come and gone throughout history. A clean-shaven look has been linked with cleanliness in some cultures.

Nail services Acrylics – these first became popular in the 1970s when nails were long and painted. Airbrushing – this recent development as part of nail artistry has allowed some amazing and strikingly detailed designs in nail art.

Cornrows, a popular African-Caribbean method of hair braiding

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Creating an image 2

Iconic landmarks Hairdressing Beehive

This became famous in the 1960s, although its origins can be linked back to the bouffant wigs worn in the 18th century!

Mullet

This layered hairstyle was shorter on the top and longer at the back and sides and was popular with men and women.

Bob

The first version of this style appeared in the 1920s and was worn flat on the top, waved at the sides.

Pob

The ‘posh bob’ is the modern take on the bob and was named after Posh Spice, Victoria Beckham.

Spa therapy Essential oils

These powerful plant extracts were used in Egyptian times and have continued to be used since then. However, the popularity of essential oils and aromatherapy increased in the 1980s and they are now among the most popular treatments in spas today.

Organics

These types of products became very popular in the late 1980s as the industry saw a move away from synthesised ingredients and products towards a more natural approach.

Holistic therapy

The term ‘holistic’ means to treat the body as a whole and can be traced back to ancient Chinese civilisations and the forms of medicine they used. The Greeks and Romans also used the approach of treating the mind, body and soul as one. It became a popular term in the 1980s to refer to various complementary therapies such as aromatherapy, reflexology and Indian head massage.

Beauty therapy Helena Rubenstein

An iconic name in make-up, Helena Rubinstein opened her first New York salon in 1915 after previously having opened shops in Australia and London. Her New York salon was the first in a chain of stores offering beauty treatments, products and make-up that revolutionised the industry in an era when it was considered inappropriate for women to wear make-up.

Elizabeth Arden

Another icon in the cosmetics industry, bringing a scientific approach to cosmetic formulations around 1912. Elizabeth Arden created the idea of the ‘total look’ with matching and coordinated eye, lip and nails colours and created the concept of the ‘make-over’ in her salons. She was the first to advertise cosmetics in ‘movie houses’ in America and dominated the market in the 1930s–60s.

Selfridges

Opened in London in 1909, this department store helped to popularise cosmetics as they were put out on display and freely available in a general store for the first time!

Max Factor

Thought to be responsible for the term ‘make-up’ and credited with many innovations through the 1920s/30s, Max Factor was well known as a film make-up artist. He developed the ‘colour harmony’ principle in matching make-up tones and colours to a customer’s skin, hair and eye colouring. He invented lip gloss, early forms of nail polish and, some believe, the French manicure look.

African-Caribbean Dreadlocks

This style of hair was first worn by the ancient Egyptians but became a fashion symbol in the western world in the 1970s with the popularity of reggae music.

Barbering Facial hair

Sideburns and moustaches became popular in the 1970s/80s which saw the introduction of both the goatee and ‘designer stubble’.

Mohican

This style became popular in the 1970s/early 80s in the punk culture, when it would be brightly dyed and spiked up. David Beckham’s toned-down version helped bring the look back into mainstream fashion.

Nail services French manicure

This style of nail polish became popular in the 1930s. Although its origins are unclear, it is thought to have been invented by Max Factor. It has remained a favourite look, with a recent rise in popularity along with its use on the toes.

Nail art

Although its origins go back to ancient Egyptian times, with the use of henna to draw patterns, nail art is a landmark of modern times. It has grown with the use of nail enhancements, and intricate and detailed designs can be created.

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Over to you Historical timeline In small groups, choose one of the six hair and beauty industries and find out about the iconic landmarks through history. Explain how you think they have impacted on the development of your chosen industry today. Use ICT, including images, to present your findings for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

A French manicure

Modern influences Technology. Advances in technology are constantly changing the face of the hair and beauty industries. Today’s products and equipment deliver better results than ever before. Product production. Scientific principles applied to hair and beauty products have improved results, and mass production and distribution have kept products affordable. Media. Access to the internet and television, the rise of the film industry and music influences have brought current hair and beauty developments and landmarks directly into our customers’ lives and homes. These influences come in the form of the latest fashions, iconic people and celebrities. As a result, customers are very aware of developments in the industry and the looks they want to achieve.

Check it out

Fashion industry

Music industry

Influences

Sideburns and moustaches were popular in the 1970s/80s

Celebrities and iconic people

1. Name two key developments in the hairdressing industry. 2. Where did the term ‘Jacuzzi’ come from?

Film industry Influences on the hair and beauty industries

3. Describe a popular look from the 1960s. 4. What is ‘holistic therapy’? 5. In which era did nail art originate? 115

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

In this unit you covered a range of information about the history of hair and beauty in society. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Cultural and social influences

Technical and economic influences

Historical and iconic developments

Trends and developments

Creating an image

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UNIT 5 HISTORY OF HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SOCIETY

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

Cultural and social influences

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

1.

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on your knowledge and understanding of the history of hair and beauty in society. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in the history of hair and beauty in society. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

Unit 5 questions

Step 2 – Take action I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

2.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

3.

Step 3 – Review again Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit?

Technical and economic influences 1. 2.

Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples. 1. Did I understand the history of hair and beauty in society? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

3. Historical and iconic developments 1. 2. 3. Trends and developments 1. 2. 3. Creating an image 1. 2. 3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 5 is Internal. Your tutor/teacher/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, and show your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief. Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll the influence of cultural, social, technical and economic factors on the delivery of hair and beauty services

ll the impact of historical and iconic developments on the hair and beauty sector ll how to create images influenced by history, key developments and iconic landmarks ll how to gain feedback on your development to inform future progress. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Understand the ways in which cultural, social, technical and economic factors have influenced the delivery of hair and beauty services

You will need to consider a range of key factors influencing the delivery of hair and beauty services

You will need to consider a wide range of key factors influencing the delivery of hair and beauty services

Understand the impact of historical and iconic developments on the hair and beauty sector

You will need to provide an evaluation of how historical, developmental and iconic landmarks have had an impact on industry within the hair and beauty sector

You will need to provide a detailed and accurate evaluation of how historical, developmental and iconic landmarks have had an impact on industry within the hair and beauty sector

Be able to create an image influenced by history, key developments and iconic landmarks

You will need to use a limited range of historical, developmental and iconic influences in creating an image

You will need to use a wide range of historical, developmental and iconic influences in creating an image

Your practical work will be fully guided by your tutor/teacher/ practitioner/assessor

Your practical work will be carried out independently of your tutor/teacher/practitioner/ assessor

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UNIT 5 HISTORY OF HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SOCIETY

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to develop your understanding and image creation of the history of hair and beauty in society. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your tutor/teacher/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l From icon to iconic – the journey l Fashion victim or fashion follower? l The cycle of trends

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Introduction The most successful hair and beauty businesses are those that understand the importance of promotion and selling. Being able to promote services and products and demonstrate effective sales techniques are essential skills for anyone working in the hair and beauty industry. This unit will help you to understand that promoting and selling within a professional salon environment is an important part of providing a service. A hair and beauty business will not keep its customers or attract new ones if staff fail to promote services or share professional knowledge with clients; this is achieved through the recommendation of further treatments and home care products. However, it is important that promotion and selling are carried out with the best interests of the customer in mind. To do this professionally, and with customer focus, you will learn about the ethical considerations and legislation involved as well as different techniques and strategies used in securing a sale. One strategy commonly used to promote products and services and increase sales is the display. A display is designed to attract your attention and interest in a product or service; you can see examples of these in the window if you walk past any high street store or professional salon. After you have explored the typical types of products, services and equipment available and considered the difference between retail strategies used in the high street and those used in a professional salon, you will be able to use your knowledge and understanding to create your own professional display.

Page number

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section ...

LO1: Understand key best practice and ethical considerations linked to promotion and selling

Ethics and good practice in sales and promotion

122 – 123

Importance of selling

124 – 125

LO2: Know the impact of legislation, policies and procedures on selling and promotion in the hair and beauty sector

Legislation, policies and procedures

126 – 129

LO3: Know the typical types of retail products, services and/or equipment offered for sale in hair and beauty environments and on the high street

Products, services and equipment

LO4: Be able to create opportunities for promoting and selling in a retail environment and by professional recommendation

Product displays

132 – 133

Promotional techniques and strategies

134 – 137

Links to other units TThis unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

130 – 131

Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling When you are operating the reception area When you are carrying out a consultation When you are discussing and identifying clients’ needs When you are recommending products and services 121

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Starting point How could you tell the difference between a hair and beauty business that operates ethically and one that does not?

Ethics and good practice in sales and promotion Introduction Codes of practice and ethics have been developed for the hair and beauty industry to help ensure that professional hair and beauty businesses operate and trade in an ethical way. However, there can still be noticeable differences between the ethical considerations of one business in comparison to another. In this section, you will learn why it is important for a hair and beauty business to operate ethically and how this relates to the promotion of products and services, including achieving and increasing sales. You will also look at the benefits of ethical trading and why hair and beauty businesses should follow best practice.

Ethical considerations Jargon buster Code of practice and ethics professional guidelines for people working in a particular sector such as the hair and beauty industries Ethics/Ethically a way of behaving that is fair and decent

Ethical considerations can be applied to all areas of a hair and beauty business in some way, and many professional salons have their own policies in place that explain how the business should operate. They could cover things such as the treatment of employees and customers, how products and services are recommended, or the types of products and suppliers it chooses. If you know about some of the professional policies, it may help you to make judgments on how ethically the business it operates. This table shows some of the key areas to consider. Ethical considerations

Examples

Universal human rights

Operates in a way that does not infringe basic human rights, e.g. not purchasing products from countries or sources that breach employees’ human rights

Social responsibility

Operates in a way that considers the impact on society

Environmental sustainability

Chooses products that are environmentally friendly and disposes of waste with regard to the environment

Animal welfare

Chooses products that are not tested on animals

Providing accurate and true Information

Does not mislead customers, colleagues or suppliers about services and products

Industry codes of practice

Abides by industry-agreed standards of practice

International labour standards

Buys products and equipment from manufacturers and countries that abide by labour regulations

Staff welfare

Treats staff fairly and with respect

Policies a set of rules or guidelines

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Fair wages

Abides by minimum wage legislation and pays staff what they are worth

Discrimination

Treats everyone equally

Safe working conditions

Provides a safe working environment

Child labour

Does not use products or equipment that have been manufactured using child labour

Reasonable working hours

Asks staff to work fair and reasonable hours

Ethical considerations in a hair and beauty business

Sales and promotion It is important to follow good ethical practice in relation to promotion and sales. For example, a professional salon should choose products to use and sell that are not tested on animals, which have biodegradable packaging and are manufactured by companies that treat employees fairly. By doing this, the business would be operating with ethical considerations, or in a way that is fair and decent, as no animal cruelty has taken place, environmental damage is minimal and employees’ human rights have been respected. Salons usually find ethically produced products more expensive to purchase, as they can cost more to manufacture. This, in turn, means that customers will have to pay more for services, and products will be more expensive for them to buy. However, many customers prefer to buy products that have been produced ethically, even if they do cost more, and this can even attract customers to the business. Good practice and ethics are important to consider when promoting and selling. Successful hair and beauty businesses actively promote and sell their products and services. However, this should always be done with the best interests of the customer in mind, not just to make more money. Staff should not make false claims about products and services and should only recommend those that will benefit the client. Customers are more likely to return to the business and recommend it to others if they have been treated fairly and with respect. This is an example of ethical trading and of businesses following good practice. Improves competitiveness

Builds sales

Attracts investment

Saves money

Benefits of ethical trading

Maintains staff loyalty

Boosts revenue

Enhances trust in the business

Maintains staff motivation

Good practice Hair and beauty businesses should follow good practice by: ll working with ethical companies ll attracting ethically motivated customers and investors ll avoiding harmful publicity.

Over to you The impact of ethics In small groups, find out about the codes of practice and ethics for the hair and beauty industries and then develop your own. Decide what you think are the most important points and what may happen if they are not followed. Create a poster to display your code of practice and ethics. You could draw this or use ICT. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. What is a code of practice and ethics? 2. Explain ways in which hair and beauty therapist can promote and sell products ethically. 3. What are the advantages of working with ethical companies?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Importance of selling Introduction

Starting point Did you know that a successful hair and beauty businesses can make more profit from product sales than from services and treatments?

Recommending an appropriate product is part of providing an excellent service. Each of the six industries retails products to complement the different services and treatments provided. Retailing is a very important skill for anyone working in the hair and beauty industries and you will be expected to sell products and services. This section will help you to understand why it is important for hair and beauty businesses to promote and sell products and services. It also looks at some of the ways promotions can be used.

Role of promotions and selling

Jargon buster Retail recommend and sell products Promotional activity something organised by a business to increase sales Brand something that is recognisable Corporate image how a business is portrayed or thought of by customers Loyalty when customers develop a feeling of duty to a business or products Revenue the amount of money a business takes Motivation reason for doing something

Promotions are a form of advertising. They aim to influence and persuade clients to try services and buy products. Promotions should be well planned and thought out. A well-organised hair and beauty business should plan what promotions to run for the whole year, depending on what the business wants to achieve. For example, a new business may want to try to attract new customers, whereas an established business may want to introduce a new treatment or service. A hair and beauty business should try to have a large promotional activity about four times a year, with smaller activities taking place throughout the year. Ensure client satisfaction

Advertise the business

Encourage growth

Introduce new products and services Create a brand

Role of promotions Achieve publicity

Create a corporate image

Build customer

loyalty

Influence customers

Gain advantage over competitors

Industry

Promotional ideas

Hairdressing

Receive free gloss treatment with every colour service

Beauty therapy

Complementary product starter kit with every course of facials booked and paid for in February

Nail service

Loyalty card stamped with six infills to claim 10% off a full set

Spa therapy

15% discount off a course of six treatments paid in advance

Barbering

Complementary wet shave or beard trim with every cut

AfricanCaribbean

Half price deep-conditioning treatment with every cut and blow-dry in January

Examples of promotional activities

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

A successful promotion attracts attention and interest and is an effective way of selling. Once a customer has been made aware of a new product, service or special offer, and has shown interest in it, it is the role of the hair or beauty professional to ensure the sale is completed. Completing or ‘closing’ the sale means that you ensure the customer bought the products, treatment or service.

Selling and promoting Selling to customers helps to increase revenue. However, financial gain should not be the main reason for selling; your motivation should be to provide the best service. Selling and promoting should be thought of as part of a professional service, which means you should have the best interests of the customer in mind.

Over to you Local promotions Find out about the types of promotions being offered by hair and beauty businesses in your area. Explain what you think the aims of the promotions are and justify your answers (for example, to introduce new products, growth, etc.). Present your findings using ICT. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Picture this The colour of money Cheryl, 22, decided to have her hair coloured a striking glossy black, but after a couple of weeks she noticed that the colour looked very dull and had lost some of its initial gloss and shine. At her next appointment, Cheryl saw a different stylist. He asked Cheryl lots of questions about how she looked after her hair, such as how often she washed it and what equipment and products she used. The stylist also explained what happens to hair when it is coloured and gave Cheryl advice on how to look after her hair at home, including using four products designed to care for chemically treated hair and prolong the life of the colour. Cheryl bought the products and was delighted with the results. Cheryl couldn’t believe how much she had learnt about her hair and felt that the stylist had cared about getting good results. She felt very disappointed that the previous stylist had not given her any information and advice and she immediately rebooked with the more professional and knowledgeable stylist for her next appointment. 1. Why did Cheryl think the second stylist was more professional and knowledgeable than the first? 2. What do you think are the key reasons Cheryl bought the hair products the stylist recommended? 3. In small groups, put the following in what you think would be the order of importance for Cheryl. Discuss and explain your answers. ll The finished hair colour ll The home care advice ll The products purchased Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Role of selling Promoting products and services in a professional way is part of good customer service and aftercare. This leads to satisfied customers who will return.

Check it out

Maximising return

1. Why do hair and beauty businesses run promotions?

The role of selling

Product aftersales service

2. Why do you think selling and promoting are important to a hair and beauty business? Treatment aftercare

3. What should be the main reason for selling? 125

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Legislation, policies and procedures 1 Introduction

Starting point There are more than 30 Acts of Parliament that you will need to be aware of when working in the hair and beauty industries.

Legislation, policies and procedures are designed to provide guidance and offer protection to customers and businesses. Working in the hair and beauty industries will bring you into direct contact with customers, and you will need to know and understand about the legal rights that your customers have. This will also help you to work professionally and treat customers fairly. In this section, you will explore the different legislation and how it applies to selling and promotion in the hair and beauty industries. You will also find out about the policies and procedures that must be followed when you are selling and promoting products and services.

Sales, consumer and anti-discrimination legislation

Jargon buster Legislation law or laws passed by an official body Policies and procedures guidelines which set out best practice and which may be enforced by law Anti-discrimination unwilling to single out or treat a person differently Sexual orientation a person’s sexual preference Discrimination to single out or treat a person differently

There is specific legislation in place that relates to selling and promoting products and services. It is important that you are aware of the laws and that you abide by them. There could be severe consequences for a hair and beauty business that fails to abide by the legislation, such as loss of reputation, loss of customers and, in extreme cases, prosecution. If you have a good understanding of the legislation, you will be able to work professionally and feel confident that you are not abusing your customers’ rights.

Sale and Supply of Goods Act, 1994 This Act covers several key points about the sale of products and services. ll Customers should receive appropriate and balanced information and recommendations about products and services. ll The products, services or equipment recommended or sold to customers should be suitable for their skin/nail/hair condition. ll Products and services sold should meet customers’ expectations in respect of quality and cost. ll Services should be carried out with reasonable care and skill, within a reasonable time and for a reasonable charge.

Trades Description Act, 1968 This Act deals with goods being described incorrectly and prevents false claims being made about the effectiveness of products or services.

Consumer Protection Act, 1987 This Act aims to protect customers from products that do not reach a reasonable level of safety. The customer is entitled to a refund if goods are substandard.

Data Protection Act, 1998 This Act covers several key points about the handling of customers’ personal information. 126 M06_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 126

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Data protection It is usual for hair and beauty businesses to record a client’s personal details during a consultation; this is for insurance reasons and to ensure a safe treatment. However, customers’ personal information cannot automatically be used by hair and beauty businesses for any other purpose than was originally intended. If their information is to be used to contact them about future promotions, to inform them about offers, to put them on a mailing list or to send them regular newsletters, the customer must be informed and give consent. Records and information stored on computer and some paper records

Records of treatments and services

Client’s personal information

Medical history

Personal details, e.g. name, address, phone numbers, email address, date of birth Different sorts of personal information covered by the Data Protection Act

What is legal? Storage of personal data ll Customers’ personal information and records must be securely stored. ll Computer records should be password-protected. ll Written records should be stored in a locked filing cabinet.

Access to personal data ll Customers’ personal information should only be accessible to those who require it in the course of their work. ll Customers have a right to access records held about them with 40 days’ written notice. ll Personal information should not be shared.

Use of personal data ll Customers should be made aware of what their personal information will be used for. ll Information can only be used for the purpose intended. ll Information and records that are no longer required should be destroyed.

Equal opportunities legislation This aims to ensure that people are treated equally. You are not allowed to treat people differently due to their sexual orientation, gender, age, nationality, race, religion or ability.

Anti-discrimination legislation This aims to prevent discrimination against any customer. For example: ll people with disabilities must be able to access the hair and beauty business and the services offered ll appropriate language must be used during selling ll recommendations to customers should be made only on your own professional knowledge

Over to you A customer’s story In small groups, draft a short story that describes a customer’s experience in a hair or beauty business that does NOT abide by sales, consumer and anti-discrimination legislation. The story should contain scenarios that refer to at least three of the Acts without specifically naming them. Wordprocess your story and give it out to other groups for discussion. Ask them to answer the following questions for your feedback: 1. Name the Acts that are referred to in the story. 2. Explain what you think would need to happen in the story for the legislation to be followed. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Legislation, policies and procedures 2 Policies and procedures: selling and promotion

Labelling Products must be accurately labelled with the following information: ll country of origin ll ingredients ll sell-by date

Image courtesy of Dermalogica

In a similar way to legislation, policies and procedures that relate to selling and promotion are designed to provide guidance and safeguard both hair and beauty businesses and the customer.

ll allergy warning

Did you know? Material Safety Data Sheets must be supplied by the manufacturer with any product that may be hazardous.

ll information on correct usage – includes Material Safety Data Sheet if applicable.

Distance selling Products purchased over the telephone, through the internet or by mail order are covered by the same legislation as traditional buying. They must be: ll fit for the use described ll of satisfactory quality

Labels must list the product ingredients

ll safe to use. In addition, the Consumer Protection (Distance Selling) Regulations 2000 give protection through:

Over to you

ll a cooling-off period of seven days, where the customer can withdraw from the contract ll the right to receive clear information about goods in writing.

What is most important?

Faulty goods and complaints

In small groups, discuss the legislation, policies and procedures related to sales and promotion and put them in order of importance for:

Customers have a right to return faulty goods.

ll the customer ll hair and beauty businesses.

ll Customers can reject goods for a full refund if they believe they are not fit for purpose or of satisfactory quality.

Present your conclusions using graphs, charts or ICT and explain your choices.

ll If the customer accepts the goods, a refund can still be given if the goods are faulty or not fit for purpose. Proof of purchase is required but this need not be a receipt.

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics

Customers have a right to complain.

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

ll This should be done within a reasonable amount of time. There is no specific time limit as it depends on the goods and how long they would be expected to last. Hair and beauty products should be returned quickly.

ll Complaints about products or services should be put in writing with details of what the customer would like to be done and by when. ll Customers are entitled to a refund if services are found to be of poor quality.

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Guarantees and warranties Guarantees and warranties are legally binding agreements and add to a customer’s statutory rights provided by the Sale of Goods Act, 1979. ll Guarantees are free, written statements from the manufacturer to say that they will repair or replace an item if something goes wrong with it. ll Warranties can be bought, similar to an insurance policy, to provide extra cover for an item if something goes wrong with it. ll The seller will set a time limit for the length of cover for both guarantees and warranties. ll There will be limits as to what is covered by guarantees and warranties, which should be checked carefully by the customer.

Contractual agreements This refers to agreements made between a customer and a business. Customers should be made aware of any terms and conditions that apply to contractual agreements and these should be clearly documented. In hair and beauty businesses, there are some common types of agreement: ll Loyalty scheme – businesses often offer incentives to customers to encourage them to remain loyal. This could be in the form of a discount, voucher, points awarded or some other reward system. ll Gift vouchers – businesses often offer gift vouchers. These usually have expiry dates and are not refundable for cash. ll Courses of treatment – customers who have paid in advance for a course of treatment are entitled to receive that treatment, or a refund. There are usually time limits on taking the treatments. If the cost of the treatment increases, customers may have to pay the difference. Discounts are often offered for buying a course of treatment.

Over to you Business comparison Choose two or three hair or beauty businesses that sell products over the internet or by phone and find out what their terms and conditions are for returning goods. Compare them and use ICT to present your findings for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Find out more These websites have lots of information on different Acts and regulations that relate to selling and promotion: • Department for Business, Innovation & Skills • Business Link

Communication

Jargon buster

Good communication is essential for all hair and beauty businesses.

Documented to make a formal record of something

ll When communicating with customers it is important to be accurate and reliable in what you say. It is better to say that you don’t know the answer to a question than to give incorrect information. ll You should be open when communicating with customers – use open-ended questions and open body language.

Check it out

ll Information should be accessible for all your customers – you must not discriminate!

1. Why do you think it is important to have a good understanding of legislation, policies and procedures?

ll You should try to communicate without using jargon that a customer may not understand.

2. What are the main points covered by the Sale and Supply of Goods Act, 1994? 3. Which Act covers the use of customer’s personal information? 4. Under which Act might you be entitled to a refund and why? 5. Why is good communication important and how can you ensure you communicate effectively? 129 M06_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 129

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Products, services and equipment Introduction

Starting point Customers in the hair and beauty industries spend around ÂŁ5 billion a year on products, services and equipment.

Each of the six hair and beauty industries offers very different services and uses specialised equipment and products. In this section, you will find out which services are offered by each sector, as well as the types of equipment and products used. It is usual for people to specialise and train in one or two particular sectors; however, knowledge of the industry as a whole is essential. Retailing is important to the hair and beauty industries, and this section also looks at the difference between buying products on the high street or from a professional salon.

Types of services and products This table shows some of the main services and products that the six hair and beauty industries provide.

Over to you

Industry

Services

Products

Hairdressing

Shampooing, colouring, relaxing, styling, hair extensions

Shampoo, conditioner, styling and finishing, temporary colours

Beauty therapy

Facial treatments, eye Exfoliants, cleansers, treatments, make-up, false toners, moisturisers, lashes, body treatments, masks body massage, Indian head massage, hair removal, epilation, tanning, cosmetic camouflage, mechanical and electrical treatments, microdermabrasion, ear piercing

Nail services

Manicure, pedicure, nail enhancements and repair, nail art

Cuticle remover, enamel, conditioners

Spa therapy

Massage treatments, water/ hydrotherapy treatments, body wrapping, flotation

Exfoliants, moisturisers, oils, creams, bathroom products

Barbering

Shaving, shaping facial hair, creating patterns in hair, hair extensions, relaxing, face massage, locking, Indian head massage

Shampoo, conditioner, styling and finishing, temporary colours

AfricanCaribbean

Shampooing, relaxing, Shampoo, styling, twisting and plaiting, conditioner, styling hair extensions and finishing, temporary colours

Businesses in your area In small groups, find out how many hair and beauty businesses there are in your area. Group them by type according to the services they offer. Create a display of this information to show your findings. You could do this with written tables, charts or graphs or by using IT. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, TW

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Types of equipment The type of equipment used varies depending on your job role. It is usual to have specialist training for some equipment and this is often provided by the manufacturer. There are many other types of equipment such as: ll hairdryers ll straightening irons ll hood dryers in the hairdressing sector, and: ll vacuum suction and faradic machines ll baths ll saunas

Find out more These companies supply products and equipment to the industry: • Salon Sales • The House of Famuir • Sally Express.

ll mitts ll hydrotherapy units in the spa and beauty industry.

Check it out

Picture this High street versus professional salon Joanne, 20, is very concerned about her skin. She has a shiny complexion and suffers with lots of breakouts. She uses a range of products from her local chemist, which the assistant helped her choose. The assistant explained that as lots of people had bought the range and it was advertised on the television it must be quite good, but several months later Joanne’s skin has not improved.

1. Choose three of the hair and beauty industries and match two types of services to each. 2. What are the benefits of buying products from a professional salon? 3. Why do you think customers buy products from the high street instead of a professional salon?

She decided to visit a professional salon where she had a consultation with the beauty therapist. The therapist asked Joanne lots of questions about her skin concerns and lifestyle and examined her skin. Joanne learned about her skin type and about products she could be using to improve her skin. The beauty therapist explained how ingredients in skin care products can help improve the skin. Joanne was also given advice on her diet and lifestyle, which she was told could affect her skin: for example, not drinking enough water. The therapist recommended some key products to help Joanne’s skin concerns and gave her a written record of her skin type and the recommended products. Joanne decided to buy three of the products. They were a lot more expensive than the ones she had bought at the chemist, but Joanne was so impressed by the therapist’s knowledge and the information and advice she gave her that she felt she could trust the therapist. The therapist had also reassured Joanne that she could return to the salon if she had any further concerns. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

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Product displays Starting point Research has shown that sales of a product are directly affected by how and where it is displayed.

Introduction Displays are used to attract the customer’s attention and to advertise services and products. Because of this, a display should be both eye-catching and informative, with a clear message. Most importantly, a display should look professional and get results. Effective product displays play an essential role in selling and promotion in hair and beauty businesses. The most common place to see displays is in the shop front window, but they can also be seen in the reception or retail area and in any area or rooms where treatments and services take place. In this section, you will learn what makes a good display, and create one of your own.

Create and maintain product displays Over to you Competing displays In small groups, compare three different displays by hair and beauty businesses in your area (ask them if you can take photographs). Decide what you like and don’t like about each display and give your reasons. What attracted you to the display and why? Then make recommendations about how you could improve the display. Present your information by creating a mood board with images, photographs, charts or graphs. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Product displays can be either promotional or non-promotional. A promotional display is designed to highlight or explain a special offer, perhaps introduce a new service or promote a certain product, or to boost sales of an existing product. A non-promotional display aims to maintain product and brand awareness without making any special offers. Whichever type of display you are creating, it should be: ll not misleading – the display should be clearly advertising what you have chosen to promote and any notices or slogans must give accurate and true information ll informative – a display should aim to send a clear message and give customers most, if not all of the information they need ll concise – the display and any notices or slogans should be clear and to the point; customers should get the message within seconds ll eye-catching – the aim of a display is to attract attention; product positioning, colour, lighting and notices should all be designed to draw a customer’s eye to the display ll creative – a display should be interesting to look at and generate excitement; it gives you an opportunity to be creative with shapes, colours and slogans ll persuasive – a display should tempt customers to buy the product or service as a must-have.

Arranging an effective display

Did you know? Most professional product companies provide empty product bottles, containers and boxes for display purposes as well as posters, signs and notices to enhance a promotional display. This prevents products from going off or packaging being ruined by sunlight and wear and tear, and reduces the possibility of theft.

ll Consider the size and shape of the products you want to use – you can use products in or out of boxes and you can use empty boxes. ll Display the products at different levels, with smaller products at the front. ll Repetition works really well in displays: for example, sets of three products. ll Symmetrical displays are effective and easy for customers to look at. ll Keep displays simple and not too busy.

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Maximise visual impact: ll Adding decorative elements will complement the theme of the display, e.g. actual ingredients that feature in the product such as lavender, or you could use some of the product such as sprinkling some salt scrub, a collection of serum capsules or nail gems or some different hair colours squeezed out on to a palate. ll Lighting should be used to emphasise the display. Spotlights directed carefully can achieve this. Maximise the effectiveness of a display by supporting it with slogans or notices. If using your own, they should be word processed, spell checked and printed in a clear, easy-to-read font. Wording should be kept brief, to the point and aim to entice customers; any colours used should complement the display.

Top tip ll NEVER use hand written signs! It looks unprofessional unless done by someone with artistic handwriting skills. ll Step back and evaluate your display from the customer’s viewpoint. Take photographs to help you.

Over to you Promotional skills In small groups, collect product packaging materials and samples and create your own display. Design slogans and notices or posters to enhance the effects. Experiment with different arrangements until you are confident with your end result, and take photographs. Create a classroom wallchart to show the different methods and how they work. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, RL, TW, SM

Salon displays play an important role in the selling and promotion of products

Assessing the display Once you have created your display, you will need to assess how effective it is. This process begins even before you start arranging your display. You will need to: ll decide on the aim of your display ll record relevant current sales levels ll create your display ll record new sales levels after a set time period and assess effectiveness ll try alternatives and reassess. Assessing displays should be an ongoing process.

Check it out 1. What do product displays aim to achieve? 2. What are the two main types of displays? 3. Name at least five things you need to consider when creating displays? 4. How would you evaluate the effectiveness of your display? 133

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Promotional techniques and strategies 1 Introduction

Starting point A popular phrase in the sales industry is ‘People buy people, not products.’

Services and products can be promoted in many different ways. You will be expected to have a good understanding of promotional techniques and strategies and how and when to use them, as they are fundamental to the success of hair and beauty businesses. Once customers have been made aware of services and products through effective promotion, you will need to be able to recognise the opportunity for sales. Selling is an important skill for anyone working in the hair and beauty industries and this section will help you to find out about successful techniques and strategies.

Common promotional techniques, incentives and strategies Effective promotion is essential not only for establishing a new business but also to grow and maintain an existing one. The choice of techniques, incentives and strategies used varies, depending on what is to be achieved.

Jargon buster Technique a procedure or skill Strategy plan or way of doing something Incentive a way to encourage somebody to do something Editorial a written article, usually in a magazine or paper

Promotional techniques Advertising This is one of the main ways of promoting services and products. There are many ways to advertise, but some methods can be expensive and time-consuming. It is useful to track and record the results of any advertising to know what works best.

Word of mouth

Marketing the methods used to sell products and services

Posters

Leaflets

Advertising methods

Editorials

Newsletters and bulletins

Mail shots (email or post)

Common forms of advertising

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Product displays Eye-catching displays can be used to promote products or services. They are quick and inexpensive to create and easy to change for the next promotion. They can be used throughout the hair and beauty industries.

Marketing opportunities Marketing is a general term that refers to different ways of promoting a business. Effective marketing techniques include: ll introduce a friend – encouraging existing customers to recommend a friend by offering the customer, and the friend they introduce, a discount or other incentive ll birthday vouchers – sent to existing customers on the business’ database offering a discount off any service ll joint promotion with a local business – for example, a florist for a Valentine’s Day or a sports shop for Father’s Day. The aim is to reach customers who would not otherwise have come to the hair or beauty business.

Targeting the market This is when you target a promotion at a certain sector of the public. A successful hair and beauty business will know who their customers are and will run promotions to attract them. For example, if you know that most of your customers are male, aged 18–25, there would be little benefit in running a promotion for an anti-cellulite body wrap! They may be more interested in a promotion that offered a free styling product with a haircut, or a discount on a back treatment for problem skin.

Opportunities for add-on sales An add-on sale describes any extra service that a customer has. It is the role of the hair or beauty professional to spot opportunities for add-on sales and to recommend extra services that will benefit the customer. This is a versatile and effective promotional technique that can be used across any of the industries.

Introduce and demonstrate new and additional services Regular customers often have the same services and buy the same products, without trying anything new. It is important to talk to customers about other services and encourage them to try new things. Demonstrating a service or product and giving out samples is a great way to gain customers’ interest and overcome reservations.

Professional recommendation Customers usually value the knowledge and expertise of hair and beauty professionals. You will be expected to share this knowledge and expertise with your customers by recommending additional services and products that would benefit them.

Over to you Add-on sales In small groups, choose one of the six industries and find out about the different types of treatment or services that they usually offer. Investigate opportunities for add-on sales for each of the services. Create a chart or table using ICT to show the industry you have chosen, the main services offered and which add-on sales you think could be used for each service. Present your findings for group discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW Promoting your business In small groups, find out what types of marketing opportunities hair and beauty businesses in your area offer. Compare your findings and use ICT to present your information using charts, graphs and images to show: ll the most commonly used marketing activity ll your favourite marketing activity and why ll the activity you think is likely to be most popular with customers and why. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

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Promotional techniques and strategies 2 Promotional incentives Special offers

Offers such as ‘buy one, get one free’, a free gift with a purchase or a complementary service are all great ways to introduce customers to new services and products, with the aim being that they continue to use them.

Discounts These can be given off products or services. The lower price is usually only for a short time to encourage customers to purchase a product or service that they do not usually buy.

Loyalty points/cards Existing customers could build up points each time they have a service or buy a product. This could also be linked to the amount of money they spend. When they reach a certain number of points, they receive something back, such as a money-off voucher or a free service or product. This is an effective way to motivate customers to stay with the business and to reward them for their loyalty.

Promotional strategies

Recognising selling opportunities Selling opportunities occur with every customer, every day. Experienced hair and beauty professionals will recognise these opportunities by carefully listening to the customer’s needs during the consultation. Once a client’s needs have been identified, the stylist or therapist will match products and services that could benefit the customer and will make appropriate recommendations. Effective promotions in a hair or beauty business should increase customers’ interest and help to improve sales of products and services. However, this will only happen successfully if you are able to recognise opportunities for sales and act on buying signals.

Recognising opportunities for sales An existing customer having a service can lead to a variety of sales opportunities: ll by linking the customer’s service to other related services ll by linking the customer’s services to related product sales.

Linked services

Linked sales

ll Exfoliation body treatments

ll Body scrub

ll Fake tan application ll Pedicure ll Manicure

ll Body lotion ll Loofa/mit

Service

ll Self-tan

Waxing

ll Ingrown hair treatments

ll Epilation

ll Antiseptic

ll Bleaching

ll Tinted aftercare lotion

ll Tinting ll Facials

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

The diagram shows how waxing can be linked to sales and other services. There may be many different additional products and services you could introduce, but you should choose the ones that you feel are most appropriate for your customer’s needs and will benefit them. Information from an existing customer’s consultation may help you, but you may be dealing with a new customer or a customer that is not having a service. Either way, you will need to use effective interpersonal skills to complete the sales process. 1. Identify the customer’s needs – this is possibly the most important step in selling. By asking questions and listening to the customer’s concerns, you can find out what it is they need. 2. Make appropriate recommendations based on your professional knowledge – when you have found out what your customer needs, you can offer solutions in the form of products and services. 3. Outline product and service benefits and suitability – you will need to explain to customers what the benefits of the product or service are for them and how it will solve their concerns. Throughout this process you will need to look out for buying signals. They will help you to spot when a customer is interested. Ready to buy

Not ready to buy

Spends time looking at one product

Browses many products

Looks for you for help

Avoids eye contact with you

Asks questions about the product

Avoids conversation with you

Holds and touches a product

Does not pick up a product or, if they do, puts it down quickly

Has open positive body language

Has closed negative body language

Asks about the price

Makes ‘not now’ excuses

Buying signals

4. Overcome reservations and close the sale – this is the final step of the sales process and is when you help the customer make a decision to purchase a product or service. You need to know what the reservations are before you can overcome them. Sometimes a customer may need more information or more time to consider the purchase. Common reservations include:

Over to you Role play In small groups, create several sets of customer profiles. Include the customers’ personal information, a past service history, and some concerns about hair/skin/nails. Break into pairs, choose a customer profile and choose one person for the role of customer and one for the role of hair or beauty professional. Use the customer profile to role-play a sales situation to help build your sales skills and confidence. Use the sales steps to guide you. Swap roles and keep practising using the various customer profiles created. Invite feedback from your group about your sales skills and areas for improvement. Identify ways that you can improve your sales skills. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, RW, TW

ll Financial concerns – customers may not be able to afford to buy what you have suggested. You could suggest smaller size products or fewer products to start with. Remember that professional products usually last longer and represent better value.

Check it out

ll Effectiveness concerns – customers may not be sure that what you have suggested will work for them. Remember that you are professional and knowledgeable; if you have suggested products based on the client’s concerns, you should be confident they will solve them.

2. Explain what ‘targeting the market’ means.

ll Still unsure – customers who are still unsure about a purchase do not have all the information. Check that you have addressed all the concerns and offered solutions. Are there any more questions you could answer?

1. Identify three methods used to advertise products and services.

3. What is an ‘add-on’ sale? Give an example. 4. What are ‘buying signals’? 5. Describe two buying signals.

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Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about promotion and selling. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Ethics and good practice in sales and promotion Importance of selling

Legislation, policies and procedures Products, services and equipment Product displays

Promotional techniques and strategies

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on your promotional techniques and the display you created. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do? Step 2 – Take action

Unit 6 questions Ethics and good practice in sales and promotion 1.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

2.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

3.

Step 3 – Review again

Importance of selling

Have my knowledge and skills improved since step 1?

1.

Am I more confident with the unit?

2.

Am I ready to move on?

3.

Self-assessment questions

Legislation, policies and procedures

Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples. 1. Did I manage to create an effective display? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away, you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

1. 2. 3. Products, services and equipment 1. 2. 3. Product displays 1. 2. 3. Promotional techniques and strategies 1. 2. 3.

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Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 6 is Internal. Your tutor/teacher/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, and show your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief. Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll best practice and ethics links to promoting and selling goods and services

ll the impact of legislation, policies and procedures on selling and promotion in the hair and beauty sector ll types of retail products, services and equipment offered in hair and beauty environments ll how to create opportunities for promoting and selling in a retail environment by professional recommendation. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Understand key best practice and ethical considerations linked to promotions and selling

You will need to explain key best practice or ethical considerations linked to promotion and selling activities

You will need to explain key best practice or ethical considerations linked to promotion and selling activities in depth

You will need to evaluate the role of promotion and selling

You will need to evaluate the role of promotion and selling thoroughly and in detail

Know the impact of legislation, policies and procedures on selling and promotion in the hair and beauty sector

You will need to describe the impact of legislation on the selling process

You will need to describe the impact of legislation on the selling process clearly and accurately

You will need to identify a range of policies and procedures suitable to hair and beauty environments

You will need to identify a wide range of policies and procedures suitable to hair and beauty environments

Know the typical types of retail products, services and or equipment offered for sale in hair and beauty environments and on the high street

You will need to compare high street sales and sales made from professional recommendation within a hair and beauty environment

You will need to carry out a detailed and accurate comparison between high street sales and sales made from professional recommendation within a hair and beauty environment

Be able to create opportunities for promoting and selling in a retail environment and by professional recommendation

You will need to create a display of products and promotional material

You will need to create a clear and eye catching display of products and promotional material

You will need to demonstrate a range of selling techniques to influence others

You need to demonstrate a wide range of selling techniques showing comprehensive professional knowledge to influence others

You will aim to take responsibility for acting on buying signals and selling opportunities

You will take full responsibility, accurately and appropriately acting on buying signals and selling opportunities

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UNIT 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to develop your understanding of promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your tutor/teacher/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l When promoting turns into pushing. How much is too much? l Is there really a difference between high street products and salon products? l How much do salons rely on sales of products?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Introduction Hair and beauty businesses must survive in a highly competitive market. In order to do this successfully, they need to operate efficient business systems and processes, regardless of their size. This unit will help you to compare and contrast the different business systems required for different business types. The unit explores the central role reception plays in a salon. It looks at the systems and processes that take place within this area – from stock control to money handling – and at the procedures required to organise, maintain and operate the area. It will also help you to understand the principles behind calculating costs of products and services, which enable a business to work out a pricing structure. To help you to develop the skills required for effective team-working, communication and self management, the unit also explores the organisational and operational systems within a reception area.

Page number

Learning outcome (LO)

Covered in section …

LO1:

Types and range of businesses

146 – 147

Legal obligations

144 – 145

Business processes and systems

148 – 149

Key roles and functions of a reception area

152 – 153

Understand the key aspects of business systems and processes used in the hair and beauty sector and related industries LO2: Understand the key roles and functions of a reception area in a range of businesses

Links to other units

Maintaining and organising the reception area

154 – 155

This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning.

Money handling

156 – 157

Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices within hair and beauty

Communication

158 – 159

Teamwork

160 – 161

LO4:

Pricing structures

162 – 163

Be able to calculate costs of products and services provided in the hair and beauty sector

Services and treatments

164 – 165

LO3: Be able to organise, maintain and operate the reception area of a salon

Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation When you are interacting with others while working in the reception area When you are scheduling work and clients’ appointments When you are calculating the cost of a service When you are maintaining a stock control system, processing payments and handling payment discrepancies 143

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Legal obligations Introduction

Starting point Did you know that over one million people are injured at work every year?

All hair and beauty businesses must operate within the laws and regulations put in place by the government. It is important that you become familiar with this legislation. Business owners have a duty to protect the health, safety and welfare of their workforce as well as the general public, although you will see that many other people are required to take responsibility – even you! This section explores the rules and guidelines that must be adhered to and considers the serious consequences of non compliance.

Legislation ll Health and Safety Training for Employment, 1990 – employers must provide whatever information, instruction and training is needed to ensure so far as is reasonably practicable the health, safety and welfare of their workforce. This applies to young people on work experience in a business.

ll Trades Description Act, 1968 – makes it a criminal offence to describe goods falsely.

ll Sale of Goods Act, 1994 – requires all goods to be of a satisfactory quality and fit for the purpose of their intended use. The Act also states conditions under which customers can return goods.

Did you know? ll The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) is a government body set up to offer help and advice on health and safety issues. It also has powers to enforce the law. ll Unfair dismissal can be costly – an employment tribunal can award an unfairly dismissed employee up to £50,000; there is no ceiling on compensation for discrimination.

ll Consumer Protection Act, 1987 – provides legal safety standards to minimise risks to the consumer from potentially harmful, defective or dangerous products.

ll Health and Safety at Work Act, 1974 – requires employers to provide a safe and healthy workplace by assessing potential hazards and taking steps to reduce the level of risk. The business should have a written health and safety policy available to all employees, who should follow health and safety procedures and act in way to protect themselves and others.

ll Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations, 2003 – requires employers to identify hazardous substances used in the workplace, and to train staff in how they should be handled, stored and correctly disposed of. Hazardous products should be labelled with an appropriate hazard symbol.

ll Controlled Waste Regulations, 1992 –

Jargon buster Legislation laws passed by Parliament Non compliance not abiding by the rules Practicable able to be done or put into action Compensation money paid in exchange for something that has been lost or damaged or for inconvenience

ensure that all clinical waste, such as wax strips or used needles, is collected by a registered waste carrier and disposed of in an approved incinerator.

ll Employer Liability Act, 1969 – businesses must have insurance to provide for financial compensation if an employee is injured or develops a disease while carrying out their duties in the workplace. A copy of the insurance certificate must be displayed in the salon.

ll Data Protection Act, 1998 – requires businesses to store clients’ personal information in a secure place and to register with the Data Protection Registrar. Failure to comply is a criminal offence and may result in a fine of several thousand pounds.

ll Employment Protection Act, 1990 – enables an employee to claim unfair dismissal if they can prove the

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

employer acted unlawfully. Examples of grounds for unfair dismissal include joining or not joining a trade union, pregnancy, discrimination due to sex, race or marital status.

ll Offices Shops and Railways Act, 1963 – requires an employer who employs staff in a shop or office to register their details with the local authority.

ll Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations, 1992 – employers must minimise risk of ill health caused by the use of display screen equipment by providing well-designed desks and chairs that maintain good posture and also ensure regular breaks are taken.

Picture this An accident waiting to happen Mark is a trainee apprentice starting his first day in a busy hair salon. He has been told to stay in reception and shadow the regular receptionist. Several clients arrive – one requires a patch test – and the receptionist leaves to gather the required products, issuing no instructions to Mark. The phone rings. While Mark is answering it, a delivery of stock arrives and is left in the doorway. A client arrives and trips over the box just as the receptionist returns. She immediately blames Mark.

Find out more These websites have more information on consumer protection legislation: • Business Link • Health and Safety Executive • Habia.

Over to you Legislation pack In small groups, investigate the legislation that governs the activities within one of the hair and beauty industries. Produce a guidance package detailing what regulations must be followed when running a business. Either research on the internet or visit a local hair and beauty business. Your package could include a brochure, PowerPoint presentation and guidance poster. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

1. Do you think the accident was Mark’s fault? Give reasons for your answer. 2. How could this situation have been avoided? 3. Which two pieces of legislation offer guidelines to ensure incidents like this do not occur? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Who enforces health and safety legislation? 2. How should a client’s personal information be stored? 3. What are the legal obligations of computerised work? 145

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Types and range of businesses Introduction

Starting point Hair and beauty businesses in the UK currently have an annual turnover of ÂŁ5.25 billion.

From the tranquil luxury of a spa environment to the vibrant buzz of a barber’s shop, the hair and beauty industry has it all. Exciting opportunities exist as there are so many types of business, offering such a broad variety of treatments and services. This unit explores the different business set-ups within the six industries, from individuals working for themselves (such as freelance make-up artists or beauty therapists) to large chains of hairdressing or beauty salons employing hundreds of people. Each business will have its own purpose, either focusing on one particular service, such as nail treatments or offering a combination of treatments, services, products and advice, such as a combined hair and beauty salon. Whatever the business, it will be important for it to establish its purpose from the start, setting out clear aims and objectives to ensure its success. Business

Description

Salon

One location in either a purpose-built structure or redeveloped to suit requirements of the business. May offer hair or beauty treatments, although combined hair and beauty salons are popular

Salon chain

A group of salons owned by one person or a partnership. Some salon chains are an example of a franchise, where the operator pays the franchiser for the use of a company name and their business methods

Fitness centre

Established fitness centres such as gyms and heath clubs may offer hair and beauty services. Sometimes the staff will be employed by the centre directly or they may operate as self-employed freelancers

Spa environment

Usually purpose-built with rooms to accommodate the various spa therapies

Hotel

Often have facilities to offer hair and beauty services. Bigger hotels and hotel chains often offer a wider range treatments and services

Cruise liner

Most offer hair and beauty services, managed by an independent company which employs and trains staff. Offers a variety of treatments, although due to the location health and safety regulations would mean a restriction on some of the more hazardous services, e.g. waxing

Jargon buster Aims and objectives something which you plan to do or achieve Mission statement defines what a company is, by setting out its purpose, values and aspirations Competitors rivals within the industry Promotional literature brochures and information guides advertising the business

Types of business

Function of a business Businesses often fail through lack of planning in the early stages. This can be avoided by setting out a clear plan for success. The business should have a mission statement which identifies the purpose of the business and sets it apart from its competitors. This is often used on promotional literature. There should also be a more structured plan with the key points of how the business will achieve its aims and objectives.

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UNIT 7 SALON BUSINESS SYSTEMS AND PROcESSES wITHIN HAIR AND BEAUTY

Rejuvenate! Spa Our goal is to provide a sensational spa experience for our guests – a place where beauty, professional expertise and tailored attention combine to create an entirely memorable and rejuvenating experience. Example of a mission statement Business

What it offers

Hair and beauty

A range of services from both industries in one location

Hair only

Hair treatments – may focus on one aspect, e.g. barbering, African-Caribbean

Beauty only

A range of beauty treatments. Depending on location and demand, may specialise in one service, e.g. permanent hair removal methods

Advice only

Beauty counters in large department stores usually offer advice on skincare, as they generally do not have the facilities to offer treatments

Selling products

Retailing of hair and beauty products, either within an existing hair and beauty business or independently. Can be extremely profitable

Nutrition

Nutritional advice may be given by individual therapists or as part of an overall service

Wellbeing

Many holistic practitioners operate in group practices or individually to offer treatments and advice to improve overall wellbeing

Full service

Some businesses may have appropriately skilled staff and the capacity to offer a broad range of services to meet the complete requirements of its clientele.

Cosmetic surgery

Over to you what’s in your area? Look in your local area at the variety of hair and beauty businesses. You may wish to focus on just one industry from the sector. Investigate the range of products and treatments they offer. You could visit the premises and collect treatment and product price lists, or carry out your research online. Present your findings in a computer-generated graph or chart. Design your own treatment list for a business within a hair and beauty industry of your own choice. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT

With the advances in cosmetic procedures, many therapists work in conjunction with medical practitioners

Range of business

Picture this Starting up Stylists Danielle and Kelly decide that they want to go into partnership and set up their own salon. Between them, they have 20 years’ experience working in the hair industry but until now they haven’t felt confident enough to go it alone. They have a limited budget but are prepared to work hard. There are a few salons in the immediate location, but only one appears to be really busy. 1. What sort of things should the stylists investigate before setting up their business? 2. What should be included in their written plan for the business? 3. Where might they get help and advice with setting up a new business? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Find out more These websites have more information on the types and range of business: • Habia • Department for Business, Innovation & Skills.

Check it out 1. Why should businesses have a mission statement? 2. Identify two types of hair and beauty business and list their differences. 147

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Business processes and systems 1 Introduction

Starting point Why do businesses need structure and order?

Hair and beauty businesses must have well-organised, structured processes and systems in place to maximise efficiency and profitability. This unit explores the types of system that different businesses use. It looks at how client records are stored, processed and utilised by the business, the different methods of payment processing and client booking systems. It is important that you consider the effectiveness of these methods and have an understanding of what type of business would use them. Telephone communication

Customer records

Appointment bookings

Key business systems

Processing paymnet

Stock control

Computerised versus manual systems Many of the systems used in hair and beauty businesses are now computerised, although some businesses still use traditional, manual methods.

Manual systems Most manual systems are reasonably inexpensive to set up. Generally, most people have the skills to use them effectively. The majority of manual systems are slower than computerised systems.

Jargon buster Analysed study or examine something in detail in order to discover more about it Mail merge a computer facility that allows businesses to produce multiple copies of a letter, each addressed individually to the customer using the business’ database of names and addresses Integrate combine two or more things to become more effective

Computerised systems Computerised systems can be expensive to set up, but if they improve speed and efficiency, they may save money in the long term. They require staff to be computer literate and staff may need to be trained, which will cost the business money. Probably the greatest bonus of using a computerised system is its capacity to provide a wide selection of features, allowing information from different processes to be accessed and analysed. Businesses that store client information on the computer will be able to operate a mail merge, targeting particular groups for promotional information. There is also the opportunity to run a fully integrated system linking retail sales and service payment facilities with the monitoring of stock levels: for example, when a product is sold or used in a treatment it is recorded, and this information can be accessed to ensure a continuous supply of products.

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Systems used by small businesses Appointment book This provides a page a day, segmented into columns for each member of staff and divided into time increments down the length of the left-hand column. The client’s full name plus contact number and details of treatment are recorded against arrival time, with the duration of treatment shaded accordingly. Most businesses use abbreviations for each treatment, such as B/wax for Bikini wax. It is advisable to write in pencil, so amendments can be made easily. This is a cheap and effective way of recording appointments, but it is not easy to pull out data for charting patterns of customer booking habits.

Client records and card index Clients’ personal information such as name, contact details, date of birth and treatment history can be recorded on individual cards and then filed alphabetically in an index box or filing cabinet. It is crucial that accurate records are kept and updated regularly. This method is fine for a small quantity of records, but may be unsuitable if a large quantity of cards need to be stored.

Till or cash drawer This could be as simple as a lockable box or drawer where money and payments are stored. If this system is used, then handwritten receipts will need to be provided. The alternative is an electronic till, where sales may be calculated and recorded, a printed receipt produced and payment stored in the drawer below the till. If the till allows items to be keyed into different departments, such as retail or services, simple data may be collected. This type of cash register is relatively inexpensive to purchase.

Page from an appointment book

Telephone A telephone is required for taking customer calls, and should have an answerphone facility to ensure 24-hour coverage. Some small businesses may rely on a mobile phone with a voicemail facility.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Business processes and systems 2 Systems used by large businesses Computerised booking system

Jargon buster Software program containing instructions that tell a computer what to do

Some businesses use a personal computer with specialist salon or spa software installed. This may show simple appointment pages on one screen to record appointment details; it may have multiple screens allowing different services to have their own screen. Screens can be colour-coded and specific information highlighted. The stored data can be used to analyse the most popular treatments and which staff are the most productive. It may have more complex features such as an online booking system, giving clients the option to book themselves in, ensuring 24-hour access that may prove attractive to clients with busy lifestyles.

Computerised client records Client information may be stored in a database on a personal computer. All information must be accurate and updated regularly. Software may be purchased to enable this information to be used in a number of ways. It can help to pinpoint the client’s needs and requirements, recording their preferred treatments and product choices. The information can then be used to target promotional information to the client: for example, a promotional voucher could be sent on their birthday or notice given of any seasonal promotions on their favourite products. The initial outlay for this type of system may seem expensive, but the cost is likely to be recovered quite quickly from the extra business it brings the business.

A growing number of hair and beauty businesses store client records on computer

Linked cash drawer/credit card machine This system can do calculations and process credit and debit card payments. It can also subdivide sales into departments, allowing the business to analyse its sales data.

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Telephone Multiple telephone lines linked to one internal system allow communication access in a large business. The main switchboard is located in the reception area.

Integrated business system Specialist software can provide the business with a range of useful data that can then be analysed. ll Stock levels can be monitored, ensuring supplies are maintained. ll The performance of individual products can be analysed, helping the business to identify market trends. ll Client data may be used to target communication and improve customer relations. ll Staff performance levels can be assessed, identifying future training requirements or employment needs.

Choosing a business system The choice of system will depend on the business’ needs and requirements. Some key factors that will influence this choice would be the size and the type of business, with larger combined businesses such as hair and beauty salons or chains of salons requiring sophisticated, swift computerised systems. With larger businesses generally employing greater numbers of staff requiring clear procedures to follow, it becomes necessary to support them with the most appropriate up-to-date system, often relying on computer technology that can be expensive. However, larger businesses often have a greater profit margin and are therefore able to afford the investment. Smaller businesses may have less money to invest in the systems they use, and so rely upon cheaper, manual systems. As smaller businesses often employee fewer staff, manual systems can prove quite effective.

Picture this Growing business Jill is the owner of a very successful, small barbering business. She started the business 20 years ago on her own and now employs two other stylists. The area in which the salon is located has experienced a huge growth in population and, with a large number of building projects now complete, Jill has seen a big increase in the number of clients. She would like to extend the premises and expand the business. Jill has relied solely on manual systems for booking appointments, recording client information and stock control. She is hoping to employ at least another three staff and is expecting the business to triple in size. 1. Why might it be difficult for Jill to continue using only manual systems? 2. What business systems would help Jill’s business run more effectively? 3. What factors may influence Jill’s choice to opt for computerised systems. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Over to you Doing business In small groups, investigate two hair and beauty businesses. Consider how each business processes, stores and records payments for goods and services. Try to compare a computerised system with a manual system – explore the pros and cons of each system. You could gather this information through visiting a business or producing a questionnaire to be completed by the business, possibly online. You could present your findings in a computer-generated chart or table and/or through a PowerPoint presentation. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Give some examples of manual systems that are used in hair and beauty businesses. 2. Discuss the advantages and disadvantages of using a computerised system. 3. How might an integrated business system improve customer relations? 151

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Key roles and functions of a reception area Starting point Can you remember the last time you were in a reception area? Was it a memorable experience?

Introduction At the heart of any hair or beauty business is its reception area. It plays a crucial role in creating a lasting, positive impression on the business’ clients. There are a variety of reception layouts to be found across the hair and beauty industries, from informal arrangements in a small establishment such as a nail bar to more formal set-ups found, for example, in a large health spa. In this section, you will find out about the many roles fulfilled by a well-run reception, from dealing with general enquiries to handling more delicate scenarios such as disputes or complaints.

The role of reception Reception should offer visitors a comfortable waiting area, while taking the opportunity to actively promote and sell products and services. Reception should always be run by appropriately trained staff.

Jargon buster

A lasting, positive impression may be achieved in several ways. All staff working in reception must work towards the highest standards in the areas shown in the diagram below.

Dispute heated argument or disagreement

Create a lasting, positive impression of the business

Hospitality warm and friendly welcome Décor furnishings and decoration

Meeting and greeting Good client care

Appropriate hospitality

Professional presentation

The role of staff in the reception area

Over to you The perfect reception In small groups, investigate a selection of reception areas within different hair and beauty businesses. Compare and contrast the various styles of presentation and layouts. Consider the décor and range of activities that occur within each area. Also consider how much space is dedicated to displaying retail products. Does the reception create a positive image? If so, how does it achieve this? To carry out your research, you could visit local businesses within the hair and beauty industries, research hair and beauty salon industry websites or visit a college or training establishment’s hair and beauty reception area. You could also explore reception areas in other establishments, such as a dental or GP’s surgery. Discuss your findings within your group and with your teacher/tutor/practitioner. Present your results in a computer-generated chart or table, or in a presentation of your choice. You could then choose one of the six industries and design your own perfect reception area. Use your flare and imagination to create a modern, versatile environment, perhaps with the use of diagrams or an actual scale model. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

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Types of reception The type of reception may be governed by the size and location of the establishment. During planning, priority is often given to the treatment areas. However, knowledgeable staff and a well-stocked reception area can generate high financial returns for any business.

The reception area All reception areas have some form of front desk, where the receptionist takes bookings and coordinates appointments, either manually or on a computerised system. This would also be where payments are taken and cash is held. To ensure good security, this location should never be left unattended. It is vital that the reception area provides a welcoming, comfortable environment to ensure clients are totally relaxed so that they enjoy their whole experience while in the salon or spa. Often a variety of drinks is made available. Some businesses provide a TV screen or magazines – both can be used as promotional media.

Top tip Provide industry magazines for clients to read that promote and inform them of treatments and products available in your business instead of general publications that will contain lots of advertisements for brands available in the high street.

The area must be secure and offer a degree of privacy through to the treatment area. This will vary depending on the type of business: hairdressing salons are generally more open plan in design, whereas beauty salons and spas provide services where clients may be partially clothed, so reception serves as a barrier, restricting access to the treatment area.

Check it out

Reception should be designed to give easy access to all, and consideration should be given to those with disabilities. The area must be kept tidy and clutter-free at all times, for health and safety purposes as well as ensuring the right image is always maintained.

2. Explain how a reception area may create a positive impression?

Picture this

1. How does reception play a key role in the profitability of a salon?

3. State the ways reception helps to make the day run smoothly.

Salon receptionist required A busy hair and beauty salon requires a new receptionist. During the past two years, the salon has unfortunately experienced a high turnover of staff leaving this position. As the reception area is so important to the success of the business, the manager is anxious to find the right person to cope with the demands of the role. He has been made aware that many of the employees who have left complained they did not fully understand what was expected of them. Armed with this knowledge, he sets about trying to recruit a suitable replacement. 1. How do you think the importance of reception could be expressed to potential employees? 2. What do you think the key roles of this reception area might be? 3. In small groups, devise a job description that would attract the right person for this job role. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Maintaining and organising a reception area Starting point A well-run reception area relies upon talented and highly skilled staff to carry out a range of duties effectively.

Introduction A wide variety of activities takes place in the reception area. It provides the first point of contact for greeting clients, deals with staff absences and makes, amends and deals with missed appointments. For reception to run smoothly, staff need to work well together as a team and show good self-management skills. The reception area should create the right ambience to leave the client with a lasting, positive impression of the business. It also provides an opportunity to display both promotional and non-promotional material and oversees stock control to ensure that the business does not run out of essential resources.

Maintaining the reception area Greeting clients

One of the major functions of reception is to provide a warm and welcoming greeting for clients. The client is always your first priority. Even if you are on the phone, you should acknowledge their presence with a smile and good eye contact.

Appointment booking system Central to the reception desk is the appointment booking system, where the day’s bookings and staff schedule are held. This requires constant attention, as situations such as staff absences, clients missing appointments or clients turning up unannounced are commonplace. Careful self-management and everyone working well together as a team will help to resolve these situations smoothly.

Top tip Always address the client in a polite and respectful manner and ensure they are never kept waiting.

Dealing with complaints Some situations require more sensitive handling. When dealing with a client who has a complaint, it is advisable to stay very calm, perhaps taking them to a quieter location and listening carefully to them. It may be possible to resolve the situation immediately. If reception staff are uncertain of the solution or require support, then a more senior member of staff should be called to assist.

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Organising the reception area The reception area should be a tranquil and relaxing environment. The client should always leave feeling the beneficial effects of the treatment and happy with the total experience.

Promotional displays and non-promotional information The reception area provides an ideal location and opportunity to advertise and promote to clients, using a range of promotional devices, posters, DVDs, leaflets and sample stands. This helps to increase awareness and generate sales. Displays can be used to advise of special offers and seasonal promotions. Guidance regarding a hair and beauty business’ legal obligations when promoting and selling products or services is detailed in the Trades Description Act. Hair and beauty businesses are required to display certain non-promotional information, such as a treatment list and full price list, so that clients are never misled. Insurance certificates, as well as certificates that clearly identify employees’ qualifications, should be clearly displayed.

Maintaining and storing resources The smooth operation of a hair and beauty business relies heavily upon a good stock control system. This will ensure that there is a continuous supply of products used for treatments and for retail. Disruption in supply can lead to loss of business and is an example of poor practice. Stock levels should be monitored carefully, new stock should be ordered before the old stock has gone. New stock should be stored behind old stock as this must be used up first; this is referred to as stock rotation. On arrival, stock is separated into retail and work-related stock. Work-related stock may need to be stored taking into account the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2003: for example, flammable items should be labelled and stored in a metal, non-flammable cabinet.

Picture this A new beginning The Serenity Spa has decided to update and modernise its reception area. The manager has asked staff to come up with suggestions for the layout and design of the new area. He has also asked for innovative ways to display and promote products and services. Imagine you are an employee at Serenity. 1. Devise your own plan for a new reception area. 2. Suggest some exciting ways to promote products and services. 3. What key information should be displayed in the reception area? 4. In small groups, create your own display in the classroom to promote either products or services. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Did you know? Happy clients are a hair and beauty business’ best advertisement.

Over to you First impressions In small groups, investigate a variety of reception areas and consider how they organise the space available to them. Note what materials are being displayed and reflect on how useful this is. Explore what type of overall impression the area gives. Discuss your findings – you may have observed different things. Then create a presentation – you could use PowerPoint – to deliver your findings. You may want to use photographic images to support your results. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Jargon buster Ambience the surroundings or the atmosphere of a place Innovative using new methods or ideas

Check it out 1. Explain how you would deal with a client making a complaint. 2. How does a hair or beauty business benefit from creating promotional displays? 3. Why is stock control so import? 155

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Money handling Introduction

Starting point How many payment methods do you think are used in the hair and beauty industries?

This section explores money handling, although in reality few people carry cash these days choosing to use one of the many other methods of payment available such as cheque or credit card. You will need to have a thorough knowledge of all forms of payment and how each should be processed, either electronically or manually. It is also important to know about some of the discrepancies that can occur while dealing with transactions and how these can be rectified.

Payment methods Payment method Cash

How it should be handled Money in the form of notes or coins. There are several key factors that should be considered when handling cash payments. ll If change is required, count it back to the client out loud and ask the client to confirm the amount received – this avoids any confusion. ll Always check coins and notes carefully to ensure they are not counterfeit or a foreign currency, as neither may be accepted as payment.

Credit cards

A small plastic card used to make purchases. The card is issued by a credit card company. Once a month the credit card company invoices the credit card holder. The balance may be paid in full or a lesser amount paid, with the outstanding balance then incurring interest. When processing this type of transaction: ll the card holder will be required to key in their four-digit PIN as proof of identity – if this is incorrect, the transaction cannot proceed and another form of payment must be used

Over to you Money, money, money ... Devise a questionnaire, either manual or electronic, to gather information on what type of payment methods are used in a hair and beauty business. You could carry out a broad regional investigation or a more concentrated local activity. You may want to focus on one type of business from the hair and beauty industries or compare different types of business. Present your findings in a computer-generated graph, table or pie chart. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

ll if a PIN is not used, the customer’s signature should match the name on the front of card ll the card should be checked for a valid hologram and the credit card number should not be on the credit card company’s warning list. Debit cards

A plastic card issued by a bank. It can be used to make purchases. The card holder will be issued with a PIN to provide similar security to that of a credit card. However, there is one major difference: the payment is taken from the card holder’s bank account almost immediately; therefore, the customer must have funds in their account or an overdraft facility for this method to work. Debit cards are widely accepted in many outlets although, because of the need for an electronic terminal to process the transaction, some smaller business may not have this facility. The card should be checked in the same way as a credit card is checked.

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Cheque

Voucher

A cheque book is issued to the customer by their bank with a cheque guarantee card, which should carry the customer’s signature. When a cheque is used, the amount payable must be written on the cheque in words and figures with the date and signature. The cheque is then verified against the information on the cheque guarantee card and the two signatures carefully compared. Vouchers are purchased directly from the hair or beauty business. They are often given as gifts by existing clients, which helps to generate new business. The voucher should clearly state the value of the amount that may be redeemed. It is a good idea to have a use-by date on vouchers to help keep the business’ financial records current.

With so many different payment methods available, it is always advisable to check with a supervisor if you are unsure about how a transaction should proceed or if you suspect a transaction to be fraudulent.

Processing the payment This takes place using either an electronic or manual method. Manual tills may be as simple as a lockable box or possibly a drawer that can be accessed at reception. Payments may be stored and handwritten records of each transaction should be made. It is important that accurate records are kept, and this is much easier with electronic tills. These can record sales, do calculations to ensure the correct change is given and provide a printout of the transaction in the form of a receipt. Many tills are now computerised, allowing the business to analyse sales figures in great detail.

Picture this Money handling training Nikhil is the owner of a highly successful chain of hair and beauty salons. He employs a large number of staff and has good links with local colleges, regularly taking many students on work experience. He accepts many forms of payment in his businesses, including cash, cheque, debit and credit cards. Nikhil thinks it would be a good idea to produce a training DVD to provide helpful information and guidance on payment handling.

Jargon buster Discrepancy lack of agreement, or an instance of this; difference; inconsistency Counterfeit fake Verified make certain that something is correct Fraudulent dishonest

Find out more For more information on counterfeit money, visit the UK Parliament website.

Check it out 1. Discuss the benefits of one of the types of payment used in a hair and beauty business. 2. What are the benefits of using an electronic till? 3. Why do you think the use of the PIN has become so popular?

1. Indicate the key facts an employee should know about each payment method. 2. What possible discrepancies could an employee encounter with each payment method and how might they deal with these? 3. Why do you think it is so important for Nikhil to train his staff in money handling? Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, CT

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Communication Introduction

Starting point How many ways do you think we communicate with one another?

Many different forms of communication are used within the hair and beauty industries. We rely heavily on the most obvious forms of communication such as talking or writing, but there are many non-verbal ways to communicate such as using body language or facial expressions. The ability to communicate well is a basic skill required of anyone wishing to work within the industries. It is essential that hair and beauty professionals are able to get their point across accurately; equally, they must ensure that they respond to clients’ needs appropriately and interpret information correctly. Speak clearly using the appropriate language

Be aware of your body language

Avoid using jargon

Good communication techniques

Use positive facial expressions

Over to you Communication methods Investigate the types of communication that take place in two different hair and beauty businesses. You could gather this research by devising a questionnaire to be completed by the business’s staff. Evaluate your findings and compare and contrast the methods used by each business. Present your findings in a report or a chart or graph, or any other suitable alternative. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Top tip

Adjust tone of voice to suit situation

Consider your audience

Key points for good communication

Communication skills Many situations within the industries require excellent communication skills. Good speaking skills, for example, ensure information is delivered in a clear and accurate way, using appropriate emphasis on key points. Clients should never be made to feel confused or pressurised when given information.

Client-centred care Clients’ understanding must always be checked and clarified by careful questioning and observation of their body language. Each client has a totally different personality and will need to be treated as an individual; their body language may help you to understand how they are feeling. It is important that you display a positive image at all times through your facial expressions and body language. It is possible to say the right thing but convey the wrong message because you have not considered the effects of non-verbal communication. Looking after clients relies on good communication skills and giving immediate and accurate feedback to enquiries to ensure client satisfaction. Clients should always be made to feel relaxed and comfortable during their visit. On occasion, there may be disputes or complaints, and these must be resolved by taking a calm approach to resolve the situation. Experienced staff should be well equipped to influence these situations and bring them to an amicable conclusion.

If you are happy and smile at people, they are more likely to smile back at you. Try it and see!

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Communication method Speaking

Listening

Reading

Points to consider

Examples

Always speak clearly and coherently. You may be required to talk persuasively to get your ideas across. Choose language that is correct for the situation, audience and purpose. Always check that you have been understood.

ll Attending to clients

Ensure you listen carefully; if unsure, always seek clarification. A huge part of any treatment experience for the client is having an opportunity to talk and feel that they have been listened to attentively.

ll During consultations

Requires the ability to read information accurately identifying the key points and establishing the main content.

ll Business documentation, e.g. manufacturer’s instructions, COSHH leaflets

ll Liaising with colleagues ll Promoting products or treatments ll Resolving complaints or disputes

ll Receiving instructions ll Telephone conversations

ll Promotional literature ll Appointment book ll General mail

Writing

Your writing should always be clear and accurate; at times it may need to be concise and to the point. Pay careful attention to your handwriting and check spellings if you are unsure.

ll Memos ll Appointment details ll Reports ll Messages ll Emails ll Fax ll Text

Points to consider when communicating

Picture this Communication breakdown Julie has an appointment at her local beauty salon. When she arrives two therapists are having a conversation behind the reception desk – one has her back to Julie, the other makes no effort to acknowledge her. Julie waits patiently to be noticed. Eventually, one therapist turns to face Julie; her arms are crossed and she has a bored expression on her face. The therapist mumbles in Julie’s direction but makes no effort to make eye contact. When Julie questions the therapist, she responds in an aggressive manner. Julie asks to see the manager and is met with more rude behaviour. Julie leaves the premises upset at the way she has been treated and vowing never to return. 1. List the poor communication skills. 2. Describe how you would go about training the two therapists. 3. Explain how you would get Julie to come back to the salon. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, CT

Did you know? Women talk almost three times as much as men, with the average woman chalking up 20,000 words in a day – 13,000 more than the average man.

Check it out 1. Why is it sometimes necessary to be persuasive? 2. How should you communicate with someone when dealing with a dispute or complaint? 3. Why is listening so important? 159

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Teamwork Introduction

Starting point ‘Coming together is a beginning. Keeping together is progress. Working together is success.’ (Henry Ford)

In this section, you will consider the importance of teamwork. One area in any hair and beauty business that will always generate situations that require good teamwork is reception. You need to have knowledge of how teamwork ensures that these situations are resolved effectively and efficiently. Good teamwork ensures the smooth running of a business – which means it’s very important. You will look at factors that create a team of people who can work well together, and consider what motivates them to achieve this. A successful business relies on good teamwork, where every member contributes fully.

Working together Teamwork involves the cooperative effort of a group of people, all working towards achieving a common goal. Consider just how many staff work together to achieve a cut and colour.

Receptionist meets and greets

Did you know? Businesses invest time and money sending their staff on team building activities such as army type assault courses or paintball games. These help build strong bonds as well as developing strategies for coping with new situations.

Consultation with stylist to agree service

Return to receptionist, buy products, pay and rebook

Working together to provide a cut and colour service

Junior shampoos and conditions

Stylist styles and dries to achieve finished look. Discusses aftercare

Colour technician mixes and applies colour

Stylist cuts and styles

The ability of people to collaborate is vital. Although we may not get on well with everyone we meet in the workplace, it is essential to have a professional working relationship. No one wants to work in an unpleasant atmosphere and clients certainly would not appreciate it. An effective team shares roles and responsibilities, which ensures that the following systems run smoothly: ll stock control ll client bookings ll handling payments ll appointment scheduling ll promoting selling products.

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

It is also important to establish the team dynamics, not allowing one person to dominate or overpower more passive team members. Clearly, people all have different strengths and weaknesses, different qualities and personality traits, but when these are pulled together successfully they can create a strong and effective team of people.

Jargon buster

Adopting a positive and friendly attitude at all times is an important attribute for any team member. Hair and beauty businesses require staff who can adapt their behaviour to suit different roles and situations. Being flexible enough to step in and assist when required, ideally without the need to be asked, demonstrates high levels of initiative and self motivation. Team members should have confidence in their own abilities, and receive regular feedback on their performance to help them achieve this.

Team dynamics the unseen forces that operate in a team between different groups of people

Collaborate work with someone else for a special purpose

What teamwork involves ll All members actively participate. ll The aims of the business are understood by everyone. ll All members are listened to carefully. ll All members receive constructive feedback. ll All members feel valued and respected. ll All members have a positive attitude.

Find out more Find out more about team building activities by visiting The Team Building Directory website.

ll Everyone is supportive. ll There is good communication between members. ll Members trust each other. ll Members are flexible and adaptable.

Picture this Where is the team? Neil has been employed as a receptionist in a large hair salon and has been given responsibility for supervising the reception area to meet and greet clients, take bookings and deal with enquiries. The salon employs seven staff, all with different job roles. On the day Neil starts work, everyone is very busy and he is not introduced to the rest of the team. No one takes the time to show Neil what he must do. As the day progresses, Neil starts to make errors. He tries to tell one of the stylists who listens but offers no advice. Neil overhears the stylist talking about him behind his back. Neil makes more and more mistakes, double-booking clients and not booking out enough time for treatments. His colleagues begin to lose patience and become angry with him. When he leaves work that night, he feels sad and disappointed that the day has not gone well. 1. What advice and support should Neil have been given? 2. What measures could be put in place to ensure this team of people worked more effectively? 3. What type of activity might improve relationships between the team? Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, CT

Over to you Team experience In small groups, think of a team of people who work together. It may be your teachers/tutors and their support staff, or you could visit a hair and beauty business to observe the activities of the team there. Consider how well they work together as a team and what each person contributes. Create a poster to illustrate what factors build good teamwork. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. What is the one thing all members of a team should have in common? 2. Describe two important factors that help to achieve good teamwork. 3. Explain what ‘showing initiative’ means. 161

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Pricing structures Introduction

Starting point Of the income generated by a hair and beauty business, how much do you think is profit?

In this section, you will find out how hair and beauty businesses work out their pricing structure for the services they offer and the products they retail. You will be expected to know about the various factors to be considered when a business calculates its pricing structure. The money a business receives for a service performed or a product sold is not all profit; there are various costs that need to be covered, such as wages and the cost of any materials or products used. There are legal obligations that must be considered that provide pricing guidelines businesses must adhere to.

Costs of products and services Hair and beauty businesses have two types of costs to calculate: one for products it retails and one for the services it offers. If a business does not do this with some accuracy, it will make only a small profit or, worse still, make no profit or perhaps even a loss. The sale of products can generate healthy profits for a hair and beauty business. The flow chart below sets out the main factors that influence the final cost of a product. Wholesalers usually supply to the trade (retailers) only and do not sell to the general public. Hair and beauty wholesalers buy their goods in massive quantities, which helps to keep the unit cost of each item relatively low. When wholesalers sell the goods on to hair and beauty businesses (retailers), they charge a higher price to cover costs and make a profit.

Hair and beauty businesses then raise the unit price further to cover their business costs. They must however abide by the guidelines set out in the Consumer Protection Act, 1987, which makes it an offence to mislead consumers concerning prices of goods and services. The Sale of Goods Act 1979 also states that goods must be of a satisfactory quality.

Hair and beauty businesses then sell the goods at the recommended retail price that is set by the manufacturer to help standardise prices. There is little point in trying to charge too much when products can be bought at a cheaper price elsewhere; businesses then run the risk of losing the trade completely.

Sometimes it is necessary to reduce the price of a product so that the business is able to make the ‘sale’. Generally, this is done when the product is nearing the end of its expiry date, or to clear a range of products to make space for a new line. Factors influencing a product’s final cost

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Working out the cost of services The initial calculation made when costing a service is to work out the quantities of any associated products, consumables and the use of equipment required to carry out the treatment. Staff wages will need to be covered, with a more experienced member of staff who is perhaps able to offer a greater range of services commanding a higher salary. Then there are the day-to-day costs of the business, including utilities (gas, electricity and water). There are other overheads such as insurance cover, rent and possibly interest payments on any money used to start up the business. Finally, all hair and beauty businesses should look to the future by building in some provision for depreciation, wear and tear on the premises and also investment in ongoing training for staff. The cost of services and products should also include value added tax (VAT), a tax payable to the government on most business transactions. In 2009/10, businesses that have an annual turnover of £67,000 and over are required to register with their local VAT office. The business can then charge VAT (currently 15%) on all goods and services sold, but it will have to pay VAT on goods and equipment purchased for the business. Accurate records of all VAT transactions must be kept and used to complete a VAT return once every three months. Business administration – insurance cover

Products and consumables

Equipment

Jargon buster Profit money earned by once the costs of producing and selling goods and services have been paid for Wholesaler business that buys goods in large quantities then sells them to retailers Unit cost the price of a single item Consumable a product that can be used only once, such as cotton wool Depreciation when something loses value

Over to you Business costs

Pricing structure – costs to cover Business premises – overheads, utilities, rent

Wages and salaries

Picture this Balancing the books Alicia set up her a hairdressing business focusing on African-Caribbean treatments. She is enthusiastic about the business but readily admits that she would rather be working on clients than dealing with the administration of the business. She works long hours, the salon is always busy and product sales are excellent. When Alicia did her end-of-year tax returns, she was very surprised to see that she had made an exceptionally low profit. Most of the money coming into the salon had been used to cover the cost of the salon’s outgoings. Alicia wonders whether it is worth continuing. 1. Discuss whether you think Alicia should continue in business. 2. Where do you think Alicia has gone wrong? 3. How might Alicia go about ensuring she makes a profit? Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, CT

In small groups, choose one hair and beauty business. Investigate the costs that the business incurs and how much it charges for a particular treatment. You could produce a questionnaire to be completed by the business, or visit the business directly. Discuss your results in your group. You can present your findings in a chart or graph, or you may choose another preferred format. You could use this information to work out your own calculations of the costing for one treatment. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. How does a wholesaler keep the cost of goods low? 2. List some of the factors that should be considered when calculating the cost of services. 3. Explain the term ‘recommended retail price’.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Services and treatments Starting point The hair and beauty sector has a service or treatment to suit everyone.

Over to you Treatment choice In small groups, choose two different businesses from the hair and beauty industries and investigate the types of services they offer and what these treatments involve. You could visit the business or contact them by email; the information may be available on a company website. Where possible, gather images of a range of services. You may want to present your research in a computer-generated chart or a poster. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Jargon buster Grooming taking care of appearance; to make neat and trim

Introduction The hair and beauty industries can be considered a dynamic global industry, not least because of the variety of services that they offer. In this section, you will explore a selection of hair and beauty services, from a cut and blow-dry to a make-up application, from nail services to treatments offered in a spa environment. All of these services are carried out by highly trained professionals whose aim is to ensure that clients receive maximum benefit from each treatment and are provided with appropriate advice on products to enhance those benefits. Service

Description

Cut and blow-dry

Hair is cut into desired shape to complement face shape and features, then styled using a hair dryer

Colour full head

Dyes and tints are used to provide a variety of semipermanent or permanent colour choices for the hair

Colour highlights

Strands of hair have the natural colour removed by a chemical process to create a lightening effect

Permanent wave AfricanCaribbean

Chemical process that shapes the hair into a desired curl, adding volume and wave

Barbering services

Traditional male grooming treatments involving the cutting or clipping of hair, wet shave and possibly the use of hot towels and a toning facial

A range of techniques and methods used for black hair care and styling. Hair relaxing is popular, where the natural wave is removed using a chemical process

Hair services

Service

Description

Facial

Products and techniques used on the face to cleanse, exfoliate, tone and moisturise, improving the skin’s condition

Make-up

Products applied to enhance good features and minimise less desirable features

Eyelash and eyebrows

Eyebrows tweezed into neat appearance, tint applied to brows to add colour. Eyelashes can be permed to accentuate the curl, and tinted to add colour

Hair removal Application of appropriate adhesive wax, which is then removed swiftly, leaving the skin hair-free for a period of time Facial electricals

A range of beneficial effects from the use of an electrical current applied to the face: e.g. to enhance the absorption of nourishing products

Body electricals

A range of beneficial effects from the use of an electrical current applied to the body. The current may be used to stimulate muscle activity or improve cellulite conditions

Beauty services

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Service

Description

Manicure

Treatment to improve the condition and appearance of the nails, cuticles and skin of hands

Pedicure

Treatment to improve the condition and appearance of the nails, cuticles and skin of feet

Nail Artificial nail form that mimics appearance of natural enhancements nails. Applied over natural nail Nail art Coloured nail enamels, decorations, and nail jewellery are used to create designs and patterns over natural nails or nail enhancements Nail services

Picture this Multi-cultural event A local hotel is hosting its annual wedding exhibition. This year, it hopes to appeal to as a wide cross-section of the population as possible, so it aims to encourage more male participation and ensure the event has a multi-cultural feel. The organisers would like to offer a greater range of services covering all the hair and beauty industries. Using your knowledge of hair and beauty services, produce a guidance package as a promotional resource for the organisers. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Find out more ll Visit industry trade exhibitions. Nail art – one of a range of beauty services

Service

Description

Full body massage

A variety of manual manipulations and techniques used on the muscles and skin tissues to release muscle tension and aid total relaxation. Body wraps to improve figure correction, hot stone therapy to aid deep relaxation, flotation tanks to warm and relax the body The use of saunas, steam rooms, thermal blankets to promote deep relaxation Aromatherapy – the use of essential oils to treat body and mind

Body treatments Heat treatments Holistic therapies

Reflexology – pressure applied to specific zones on the feet to correct imbalances in the body

ll Read more about the various treatments in: J. Hiscock and F. Lovett, S/NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy, Heinemann, 2nd edition, 2004 J. Hiscock, E. Stoddart and J. Connor, S/NVQ Level 3 Beauty Therapy, Heinemann, 2004 L. Palmer and N. Moorman S/NVQ Level 2 Hairdressing, Heinemann, 2nd edition, 2005 H. Stewart and G. Ford, S/NVQ Level 3 Hairdressing, Heinemann, 2003 ll Visit the website of the body that sets the standards for the hair, beauty, nails and spa industries, Habia.

Spa services

Product type Examples

Check it out

Hair products Skin products Nail products

1. Choose three of the hair and beauty industries and identify at least two treatments they offer.

Shampoo, conditioner, styling gel and mousse, hair spray Cleanser, exfoliator, toner, moisturiser, face masks, serums Nail conditioners, cuticle remover, and nail varnish (clear), frosted and matt enamels, nail strengtheners

Range of products

2. Why do you think clients go to professionals to have treatments done? 3. What is the main principle behind a holistic therapy treatment? 165

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

In this unit you covered a range of information about salon business systems and processes. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Legal obligations Types and ranges of businesses Business processes and systems Key roles and functions of a reception area Maintaining and organising a reception area Money handling Communication

Teamwork

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

Legal obligations

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

1. 2.

Step 2 – Take action

3.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

Types and range of businesses

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

2.

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on your grasp of salon business systems and processes. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

Unit 7 questions

1.

Step 3 – Review again

3.

Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1?

Business processes and systems

Am I more confident with the unit?

2.

Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions

1. 3. Key roles and functions of a reception area 1.

Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences.

2.

The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples.

3.

1. Did I understand the essential information about the way a salon operates and the processes and systems involved in this?

2.

2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer the questions straight away you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

3. Maintaining and organising a reception area 1. 2. Money handling 1. 3. Communication 1. 2. 3. Teamwork 1. 2. 3. Pricing structures 1. 2. 3. Services and treatments 1. 2. 3. 167

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 7 is Internal.

Top tip

Your tutor/practitioner/teacher will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, which shows your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief.

1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses.

Within the assessment you must demonstrate knowledge and understanding of: ll types and range of businesses ll legal obligations ll business processes and systems ll key roles and functions of a reception area

2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to research into business processes and systems in relation to the hair and beauty sector. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your teacher/tutor/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with:

ll maintaining and organising the reception area

• managing your time

ll handling money

• setting targets

ll communication

• feeding back on progress

ll teamwork

• answering general questions.

ll pricing structures ll services and treatments. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset, so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

Ideas for projects l Credit card payments – does this make it easier for fraudsters? l The pros and cons of manual record-keeping against electronic record-keeping l Do regular in-salon promotions entice customers or do they turn them off?

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UNIT 7 Salon business systems and processes within hair and beauty

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Understand the key aspects of business systems and processes used in the hair and beauty sector and related industries

You will need to research the key aspects of business systems and processes as well as how their design affects business systems

You will need to explain a wide range of key aspects that affect the design of business systems

You will need to evaluate how business systems compare and relate this to business types and how they are suited Understand the key roles and functions of a reception area in a range of businesses

Be able to organise, maintain and operate the reception area of a salon

You will need to compare and contrast in detail the different business systems required for different business types

The reception area is the hub of any business. You will need to research the key roles and functions of a range of business reception areas

You will need to give detailed and reasoned comparisons of the key roles and functions of the reception area

You will need to put your research into practice by working with others to develop and run a successful reception area using effective teamwork and communication skills

You will need to contribute to effective and successful teamwork, communication and participation

You will need to evaluate the role of customer service and client care referring this to a range of communication skills

You will need to provide a detailed and thorough evaluation of the role of customer service and effective client care

You will need to:

You will need to provide a comprehensive explanation of the range of communication skills considered in contributing to customer satisfaction

ll organise resources, space and processes in a reception area for maximum efficiency and successful operation ll create an eye-catching display to promote products and services. You will need to evaluate your performance in the reception area and the display

You will need to: ll organise and maintain a clear, eye-catching and appropriate display of products and promotional material ll ensure the display is of an appropriate size and realistic style You will need to reflect in depth on your own performance in the reception area

Be able to calculate costs of products and services provided in the hair and beauty sector

You will need to carry out calculations to work out costs of products and services in the hair and beauty sector, to assess financial viability and cost-effectiveness

You will need to calculate costs of an extensive range of services and products accurately independent of tutor/assessor assistance

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Introduction Skin care and make-up are at the centre of the beauty industry, and a good knowledge and understanding of skin care and make-up techniques is fundamental to anyone working in the hair and beauty sector. A range of factors such as our personality, cultural influences, gender, age and race influences how we care for our skin and apply make-up. We can choose skin care and make-up products to suit different needs and purposes: for example, to improve the skin, enhance our facial features, follow a trend, express an attitude, prepare for a particular occasion or conform to work requirements. In this unit, you will find out about the basic range of skin care and make-up products such as foundations, powders, eye make-up and lip make-up, as well as the relevant tools and equipment such as brushes and applicators. You will also explore how race, gender, religious and fashion trends can be expressed through skin care and make-up. You will then be able to apply these discoveries by demonstrating safe and healthy working practices in cleansing, toning, moisturising and caring for the skin, as well as make-up application techniques to achieve different looks. You will be encouraged to discuss your progress and receive feedback on your performance from friends, colleagues and peers to help you with the further development of skills and knowledge of the hair and beauty sector. Page

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section …

LO1:

Skin care and make-up services

172 – 173

Skin types

174 – 175

Tools, products and equipment

178 – 179

Enhancing and adapting treatments

186 – 187

Social and cultural influences

176 – 177

Know the key aspects of skin care and make-up services

LO2: Be able to develop a range of make-up techniques allowing for social and cultural influences LO3: Be able to safely prepare and apply skin care and make-up techniques

number

Client consultation and preparation for treatment

180 – 181

Application of make-up and skin care treatments

182 – 183

Key health and safety practices

188 – 189

Presentation and conduct

190 – 191

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices within hair and beauty Unit 3 The science of hair and beauty Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation When you are carrying out health and safety practices during your treatment routines. When you are using cosmetic preparations When you are planning a treatment routine for a client When you are recommending suitable products and home care routines 171

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Skin care and make-up services Introduction

Starting point How many skin care and make-up products do you think there are?

The beauty industry has offered more and more treatments and services in recent years. This has been in response to people’s increased awareness of, and advancements in, the manufacturing and development of products. Customers now expect high levels of expertise from hair and beauty businesses and excellent results from skin and make-up products. In this section, you will find out about different skin care and make-up services and products and how they can benefit and enhance facial skin condition. You will discover the importance of understanding the benefits of each skin care product or treatment for your clients.

Skin care Skin care treatments can be categorised into three main areas: ll manual treatments – these are carried out mostly with the practitioner’s hands and with a focus on massage ll electrical treatments – electrical machines are used to enhance the effects on the skin

Jargon buster Paramedical advanced cosmetic treatments given by a medically trained person SPF Sun Protection Factor

ll paramedical treatments, e.g. botox and laser – these need to be applied by a medically trained nurse/doctor. Treatments can vary greatly in length, price and resulting benefits which all factor into a client’s decision about which service to book.

Skin care products The huge variety of skin care products on the market differs in price, quality and results, but have the same basic functions. Product

Uses

Cleansers

Clean the skin, remove surface debris and make-up and prepare the skin for further treatment

Toners

Ensure that all traces of cleanser are efficiently removed, re-establishing the correct pH balance of the skin’s surface

Exfoliators

Remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, increase cell renewal, improve hydration, smooth the skin

Masks

Reinforce the effects of treatments and products applied previously. Deep-cleansing, rehydrating, anti-ageing or smoothing

Moisturisers

Rehydrate, protect, balance and nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple. Moisturisers often have a SPF built in and they act as a protective barrier to ultraviolet (UV) rays in the environment

Uses of skin care products

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Skin care treatments and benefits A number of specialised procedures are commonly used within a skin care treatment to enhance its benefits. They include: ll facial steaming – warm steam is applied to the skin to stimulate the blood supply, relax the pores, increase perspiration and cleansing; steaming can have an antibacterial effect on the skin ll specialised masks, e.g. warm oil and paraffin wax, thermal, anti-ageing – designed to increase moisture and hydration to the skin as well as increasing the blood supply and giving a healthy glow ll skin boosters – specialised products that deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. These can be used under masks and moisturisers.

Make-up Make-up has been used in society for centuries. It can enhance, improve or disguise the skin’s condition and facial features. It can be applied in many ways, depending upon the individual’s mood, the occasion, to conform to work requirements, to show someone’s individuality, to ‘buck the trend’, or to copy or imitate a celebrity or fashion trend. In recent years, the industry has seen the development of permanent and semi-permanent make-up.

Corrective make-up

Day make-up

Occasion make-up, e.g. evening, bridal, special occasion

Make-up services

Beauty professionals provide three main types of make-up service

Over to you Skin care services In small groups, find out about the range of skincare services offered by salons in your local area. Using the three categories listed above, try to group your findings and then compare the availability of each in your area. Discuss and present your findings using ICT to explain:

Did you know? ll It is good practice to recommend appropriate products for your clients to purchase for use at home. ll There are also other professionals who work in industries closely related to the beauty sector, such as performing arts and theatrical make-up artists, TV and film make-up artists and special effects, and photographic make-up artists.

Find out more These websites have lots of information and images for different types of make-up: • Make-up-artists.co.uk • Make-up Artist Magazine.

ll which you think is the most popular category ll which is the most expensive. Give reasons for your answers and be prepared to answer questions. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics

Check it out

PLTS Links: IE, TW

1. What are the key products used in skin care treatments? 2. What are the three common types of skin care services? 3. What types of make-up services are available? 173

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Skin types Introduction

Starting point Your skin is the body’s largest organ and covers a surface area of nearly 2 square metres in an average adult!

Everyone’s skin is unique. Good skin analysis can provide information such as our ethnicity, the state of our general health and the care that we take in the condition of our skin. A good understanding of skin types and conditions is essential for anyone working in the hair and beauty industries – it is vital to ensure that each client receives a suitable treatment and the correct products for their skin. In this section, you will find out about the different skin types and how to recognise them, as well as the various skin conditions and factors that can influence and affect the health and condition of your skin.

Skin types Facial skin can be grouped into skin types: oily, dry, normal, combination and sensitive. Your skin type is genetic, which means it is inherited and unlikely to change, and can be identified by the oil flow. However, the skin can be affected by changing conditions such as dehydration, sensitivity, premature ageing, pigmentation, congestion and milia. You will need a good understanding of these in order to carry out effective treatments and recommend appropriate products.

Jargon buster

Skin type

Description

Normal

Balanced oil and moisture content, smooth, even texture

Dry

Caused by underproduction of sebum from the sebaceous glands and low moisture content. Skin appears to be dry or flaky, may have milia and can feel taut or tight. It may develop fine lines or wrinkles and the pores will be quite tight

Oily

Overproduction of oil from the sebaceous glands. This type of skin looks shiny and sallow and its texture can be coarse. Comedones, papules and pustules are common

Combination

Oily centre panel, or ‘T-zone’, where the forehead, nose and chin have open or blocked pores and too much sebum. The remaining areas of the face and neck are usually dry or normal

Sensitive

Can become inflamed, blotchy and irritated quickly. It feels warm to the touch and is easily recognised through its high colour. Dilated blood capillaries may be present across the cheekbones and nose.

Milia white or yellowish lump caused by small collections of sebum trapped under the skin Sebum skin’s natural oil Sebaceous glands small glands attached to the hair follicles that secrete the oily substance, sebum Sallow waxy yellowish skin colour Comedones professional term for blackheads; blockages of oil in the follicle Papules professional term for closed spots Pustules professional term for open, pus-filled spots T-zone the forehead, nose and chin area Dilated blood capillaries tiny blood vessels visible through the skin

An oily skin type can lead to an annoying problem

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Skin conditions Skin conditions are usually temporary conditions and can affect any skin type. They are often caused by factors such as climate, medication, stress, hormones and incorrect product use. It is usual for the skin condition to improve once the cause is removed. Condition

Description

Causes

Dehydration

Skin lacks moisture and will appear to be tight, dull and possibly itchy and flaky

Low water intake, alcohol, harsh products, medications, caffeinated drinks

Sensitivity

Redness and irritation, skin may be hot to touch and over reactive

Incorrect or harsh products, medication, stress, pollution

Premature ageing

Loss of firmness and plumpness to the skin, fine lines and wrinkles in a younger skin

Sun exposure, stress, drugs, smoking, alcohol, poor nutrition

Pigmentation

Dark or light spots on the skin, uneven colour

Sun exposure, hormonal changes, medication, stress

Congestion

Comedones, papules and pustules usually affecting the chin area

Hormonal changes, medication, stress, cosmetics

Milia

Small, pearly-white lumps under the skin, common around the eyes

Low water intake, hormonal changes, sun exposure, lack of sebum

Picture this Skin concerns James has come into the salon for some advice, as he is very unhappy with his skin. He has never had any problems or concerns with his skin before and described it as ‘combination’, but in the last month he has started getting a lot of breakouts on his T-zone and his cheeks have become flaky, red and hot to the touch. James says that he has just started university and is finding the change to his new lifestyle quite challenging! He is also trying to save money and so has not been following his usual skin care routine. 1. In small groups, discuss the possible skin conditions that James could be experiencing and give the reasons for your answers. 2. What lifestyle factors could be affecting James’ skin? 3. Suggest three key pieces of advice you would give to James to improve his skin. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Did you know? Did you know that on the surface of a square inch (6.5 cm²) of skin there is around 50 million individual bacteria?

Over to you There are several considerations when analysing skin types. A skin care professional is trained to look at your skin, consider these individual elements and recognise your skin type and any skin conditions. In small groups, practise analysing each other’s skin, considering the following: ll high or low oil flow ll pore size ll flakiness ll elasticity/fine lines ll sensitivity/dilated blood capillaries ll congestion. Try to identify each other’s skin type and conditions and discuss your findings with the group. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, EP, TW

Check it out 1. What factors would you expect to see in an oily skin? 2. How many skin types are there? 3. What is the difference between a skin type and a skin condition? 4. What effect could stress have on your skin? 175

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Social and cultural influences Introduction

Starting point Did you know that the origins of modern beauty therapy products, tools and equipment can be traced to ancient cultures such as the Egyptians?

The media plays a huge part in our society. Through the media, we are exposed to current fashion trends and celebrity looks, which promotes their popularity and appeal and make-up and skin care products. In general, our view of beauty changes with developments in technology and the products available; this is highlighted by the L’Oreal ‘because you’re worth it’ campaign, for example, and also opens up a wider audience for male skin products. In this section, you will learn how social and cultural influences and constraints such as personality, race, gender and fashion can be expressed through the use of skin care and make-up. You will also find out how a person’s culture, age and religious beliefs are taken into account when performing skin care routines and make-up application.

Social and cultural factors Social and cultural factors influence our choice of skin care or make-up treatment.

Jargon buster Race a way of categorising a group of people or population Culture a set of beliefs, styles of dress, styles of wearing hair, religion, ways of behaving, etc. shared by a particular group of people; does not always denote race Biological inheritance the genetic characteristics that we inherit from our parents, in terms of our physical appearance, such as hair and skin colour Multi-cultural relating to or including several cultures Empathy a way of identifying, understanding and entering into another person’s feelings and beliefs; considering how you would feel if you were them

People are different in very many ways, and it is these differences that give each one of us a unique identity. The differences that contribute to our individuality include our race, culture, gender, age or religious beliefs. We are all connected in society by biological inheritance and the culture in which we were raised, which forms the basis of our individuality and personality – in other words, who we are. The origins of the beauty sector lie in a variety of ancient cultures such as the Egyptians, Chinese and Greeks and, in more recent times, the Edwardians. Each culture has had its own ideas and opinions about the importance of appearance, the nature of beauty and the role of hair and beauty in society. For example, an individual’s social standing was related to the quantity of make-up they wore and the style in which they wore it. Social and cultural factors have also influenced what people thought about aspects of hair and beauty, such as make-up. The use of make-up has become much more acceptable in recent years. Women who wore an excess of make-up in the 1930s were labelled as ‘unsuitable and undesirable marriage material’, whereas, nowadays, make-up forms part of everyday routines and often is a requirement in certain jobs. In today’s multi-cultural society, we need to be aware of and respect other people’s beliefs and cultures, and make a conscious decision to value people’s differences, therefore treating everyone with equal respect and consideration. This is especially important in the hair and beauty sector which serves a diverse range of clients. Those working in the sector need to be sensitive and show empathy to everyone’s needs, to respect their cultural and religious beliefs, when considering suitable skin care and make-up treatments.

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Influence of the media, fashion and celebrities Music videos, films, television, fashion and celebrity magazines can all influence our choice of skin care and make-up. The trends they set influence many young people as they try to copy their favourite stars. Society uses the media to communicate the latest looks, including make-up at such events as the Oscars, BAFTAs and film previews. This often leads to increased sales of the latest fashion shades and trends. If you visit your local high street, supermarket or chemist, you will see a wide array of cosmetic merchandise. The reason for such a varied range of products is to meet consumer demands from a multicultural and diverse society. Today’s society is much more accepting of the use of make-up by males, again promoted by the media and product manufacturers to help everyone achieve the best look they can. Male celebrities, television and film have highlighted that the use of skin care and make-up can create an illusion of beauty.

Over to you Business in your area In small groups, find out how many hair and beauty businesses there are in your area and what type of services they offer. Collate your information using graphs and charts to create a business profile for your area. Use the information to identify: ll any gaps in the market for potential new businesses ll any service areas that have reached saturation point. Present your findings to your peers for discussion and compare and justify your business profile. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Check it out 1. Name the ways in which new make-up trends are communicated to society. 2. What methods do product companies use to target a multi-cultural society? Footballer David Beckham’s hairstyles have influenced male fashion

3. List products available for men in the high street. 177

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Tools, products and equipment Introduction

Starting point How much do you think it would cost to set up a new hair and beauty business?

Skin care and make-up professionals use a wide range of tools and equipment. The beauty sector covers an array of treatments and services with different beauty businesses offering different aspects of the sector, catering for individual client needs and geographical restrictions. This means that the type of treatment that is being delivered will determine the equipment, tools and products used by the professional. In this section, you will find out about the basic products, tools and equipment available. You will be expected to know what is available and how to use these effectively and correctly, so you get the best results and can work safely.

Beauty salon equipment Basic equipment consists of couches, stools, comfortable chairs for clients, trolleys, magnifying lamps and mirrors. These are usually set out in a separate treatment area, suitable usually for the client and therapist only, to maintain privacy during treatment.

Jargon buster Hydraulic mechanism liquid/oil operated mechanism; allows a beauty couch to be lowered smoothly and easily Durability hard wearing and lasting for a long time

The type of equipment and tools used by a beauty professional will vary enormously depending on the types of treatment and service being delivered. However, for skin care and make-up application, the quantity of equipment and tools is not that vast. The chart below shows some of the basic equipment used within the beauty sector. As well as large pieces of equipment, there are smaller items such as bowls for mixing masks or holding water, spatulas used to hygienically remove products from containers, mask brushes to apply masks carefully, sponges used to remove cleansers and masks and headbands to protect the client’s hair. Equipment

Description

Couch

There are many types to choose from. Some are fixed height and basic, while others are state-of-the-art with hydraulic mechanisms

Trolley

This is used to display or store the relevant tools, equipment and products that are required during a treatment or service. It needs to be easy to keep clean and adds to the overall look and feel of the treatment area

Therapist’s chair

This is an important piece of equipment, is usually on wheels and has a hydraulic action, so the beauty professional can sit at the right height and easily move the chair. A suitable back support is required to minimise fatigue and injury

Magnifying lamp

This allows the beauty professional to have a magnified view of the skin so that they can clearly see its characteristics and condition. The lamp also has a light attached

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Make-up brushes and applicators

Those used by beauty professionals will differ from what is available in the high street; they share the same functions, but their quality and durability will vary considerably, and so will the price. Make-up brushes can be made from hair or synthetic fibres and both types need to be cared for properly in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Examples of make-up brushes include powder brush, blending brush, eyeliner brush and blusher brush

Beauty materials, tools and equipment

Over to you The new business In small groups, investigate the different types of equipment, tools and products that you would need to start up a skin care and make-up business. Decide on: ll one product range ll one make-up range ll suitable equipment and tools for your treatment room. Work out the costs for the items you choose and use ICT to present the information. Be prepared to answer questions on your choices. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, EP, TW

Did you know? Professional product ranges offer the salon ongoing support in sales and marketing.

Find out more A range of beauty tools and equipment

Check out these websites to find out more about professional skin and make-up ranges:

Skin care and make-up products

• Dermalogica

These are an essential part of any beauty sector business and there are a vast number of product manufacturers.

• Mac Cosmetics

ll General skin care products include cleansers, toners, moisturisers, exfoliators, masks, eye products and serums. ll General make-up products include concealers, powders, eyepencils, mascara, blushers, highlighters, shaders, lip pencils, lipsticks, lip gloss and eyeshadows. There are also many products, tools and equipment that are used every day such as towels, mirrors and consumables like cotton wool and tissues. When using products, tools and equipment it is essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and to use only what you are trained in. Incorrect use could lead to injury to the client or therapist, and damage to equipment, and could harm the salon’s reputation. It is also essential to choose the correct products for the skin as failure to do so could result in allergies, reactions and sensitivity.

• Clarins • Estée Lauder • Elemis.

Check it out 1. What tools and equipment would you use for a make-up application? 2. Name a product you would use as part of a skin care treatment. 3. What is meant by a consumable item?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Client consultation and preparation for treatment Starting point The consultation is the most important part of the treatment and forms the basis for your relationship with the client

Introduction The consultation process is a vital part of any beauty treatment and service. It establishes a client’s suitability for the treatment they would like to have, therefore helping the beauty professional develop the most appropriate treatment plan for the client and ensuring that best practice and client welfare have been put first. For this to happen, the beauty professional needs excellent communication skills in order to develop an understanding of the client’s expectations. In this section, you will find out about the correct way to present and conduct yourself during a consultation and treatment, as well as the factors to consider when you are preparing clients for treatment. You will be expected to know the questions to ask for an effective consultation such as the information you will need to safely prepare and apply basic treatments.

Appearance and behaviour Jargon buster Consultation a method used to establish, through observation and discussion, the desired outcome or result of a service or treatment request Contra-indication something that can prevent or restrict a treatment

First impressions count, and you will be expected to maintain a clean and hygienic appearance and ask appropriate questions, ensuring you demonstrate your professionalism at all times.

Consultation A thorough consultation involves: ll asking the right questions ll listening to what the client is saying ll looking at their skin. The most effective way to get the information that is needed is to ask ‘open questions’, which usually begin with the words ‘what’, ‘who’, ‘which’, ‘when’, ‘where’, ‘why’ and ‘how’. This encourages more detailed answers. During a consultation, there are certain factors that may influence the type of treatment that can be provided, such as the client’s general health, medical conditions, medication, lifestyle, nutrition, ageing or contra-indications.

Contra-indications It is essential to find out if there is any reason a client cannot have a treatment due to contra-indications. It may be that the client needs to be referred to a doctor or that the treatment needs to be adapted or a more suitable treatment could be suggested.

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Sensitivities

Bacterial

Fungal

Contra-indications

Skin allergies

Non-infectious conditions

Viral infections

Contra-indications to be considered

A beauty professional should also consider the client’s current skin care routine, their view or opinion of their skin type and the condition of their skin. An effective consultation will lead to an effective treatment plan, resulting in a satisfied client. A client record card or consultation sheet provides a valuable method to record a treatment plan, aftercare and homecare advice. A beauty professional will also use them for insurance purposes, as they verify that the information the client has given throughout the treatment is true – clients are usually asked to sign these records to prove their authenticity.

Jargon buster Authenticity being accurate, valid, genuine and true

Over to you Design a consultation sheet An effective consultation leading to the safe preparation of a client is a basic service that, when performed correctly, reinforces the client’s confidence in the beauty professional and ensures a satisfied client leaves the salon every time. Design a consultation sheet using the information you have been provided with above. Make a list of both open and closed questions, with enough spaces provided for responses. Test this out on your group and ask for comments and feedback to see if you can ask questions in a better way to get the answers that you’re trying to find out. Are there any improvements that you could make? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: CT, RL, TW, EP

Picture this Personal qualities of a good beauty professional Take a few minutes to think about the personal qualities that a good beauty professional needs to ensure that the client feels valued when they are having a consultation and skin care and make-up application.

Check it out

Make a list and prioritise the qualities in order of importance. Discuss your findings with a partner and see in what order they prioritised the qualities. In your group, compare everyone’s results to see how frequently the same priorities occur, such as ‘a good listener’, to result in an agreed group list of priorities.

2. What type of questioning would you use to ascertain the most information from a client?

Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW, EP

1. Why is the consultation process important?

3. What is meant by the term ‘contra-indication’? 181

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Application of make-up and skin care treatments 1 Starting point Egyptian men and women wore very elaborate make-up, eye make-up, blusher and lipstick. The higher the status of the person, the more make-up they wore.

Introduction How we care for our skin and how we apply make-up often reflects our own personality and is usually influenced by a range of factors, including gender, age and race. We can choose different skin care and make-up applications for different purposes: to enhance our facial features, to follow a trend, to express an attitude, to prepare for a particular occasion, to create a likeness with somebody else, to conform with work and other requirements and expectations. In this section, you will look at the different skin care and make-up procedures and products you would use when preparing a client for a treatment or carrying out a make-up.

Skin care The first stage of any skin care treatment is to ensure you choose the correct product for the skin type. This means that you must get as much experience as possible by looking at many different skin types. In time, you will be able to judge someone’s skin type and be able to identify the best products to use. This will result in the skin being cleansed efficiently, without irritation or over stimulation.

Jargon buster Astringents toning lotion with a high alcohol content

The first part of any skin care routine is to prepare the skin for further treatment, through cleansing and toning. Product

Purpose

Cleansers, e.g. cleansing creams, cleansing milks, cleansing lotions, cleansing bars, liquefying cleansers, eye make-up removers

Different skin types and conditions require different cleansers. Cleansing products will remove make-up, dirt and debris and leave the skin soft and smooth to prepare the skin for further treatments

Toners, e.g. astringents, skin fresheners

These complete the cleansing process. Their function is to remove all traces of cleanser and excess sebum from the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed

Moisturisers, e.g. creams, lotions, night creams

Moisturisers are available in many different formulations, mainly as either creams or lotions, covering all skin types and conditions. They are available for day- and night-time use. Moisturisers soften and protect the skin and prepare it for make-up

Additional products, e.g. masks, serums, exfoliants, eye products

Uses will vary depending on the particular product

Did you know? A beauty professional can also been known as an aesthetician.

Products and their uses

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Make-up When you are applying make-up to someone else, it is important that you observe strict hygiene practices. This will help to avoid any transfer of infections between clients. The brushes that are used to apply make-up must be cleaned after every treatment. Before you begin to apply make-up, you must: ll check through a consultation or record card to see if they are suitable for the service ll discuss and agree their expectations and outcome for the finished result ll have your trolley with all skin care and make-up products required laid out ll prepare your couch or make-up chair and ensure it is at the right height ll wash your hands ll protect the person’s hair and clothing ll apply a cleanse, tone and moisturise routine.

Over to you Skin care products and routines Beauty professionals tend to select certain product ranges that they will have received additional training to use. They will apply this product knowledge to support the treatment they provide in the salon or spa. Research products that would be suitable for use on your skin type and that would suit your budget. Draw up a list and discuss with your group and tutor the best way to use these products. Working in pairs or small groups, think about your own skin care routines and products that you currently use. Record your findings and compare these to the facts that you now know. Are you using the correct product for your skin? Develop a new skin care routine for your own skin, present your findings and share your experience with the rest of your group. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, TW, EF

What techniques have been used to achieve this look?

Foundation Foundation forms the blank canvas for the application of further make-up. The factors you need to consider when choosing foundation are: ll skin type ll skin colour ll extent of coverage required ll maturity of the skin ll overall effect required for the occasion. It is available in the following consistencies: creams, liquid, cake, stick, gel, mousse and mineral.

Top tip ll Use the ‘cut out’ technique when applying make-up. Remove the product from its container with a disposable spatula and place it on a palette for use with a disposable applicator. ll When testing foundation colour, apply it to the jaw line, not the inside of the wrist. Also, apply the test patch in the same lighting that the make-up will be worn in.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Application of make-up and skin care treatments 2 Applying foundation It is best to apply foundation to one section of the face at a time. If it is a fluid or solid foundation, you would apply it using a damp make-up wedge or sponge; if it is a powder foundation, use a brush in circular motions. Both application methods use outward movements, starting in the centre of the face. It is important that you blend well at the hairline and the jaw line so that you don’t end up with a demarcation line. Foundation should also be applied to cover the eyelids and lips, but not extended past the jaw line, unless this has been previously agreed as part of the client’s expectations.

Concealers These are used to hide or camouflage skin blemishes, disguise dark circles under the eyes and even out colour tones not concealed by the foundation. Concealers can be applied before or after the application of foundation but should not be used to cover large areas.

Jargon buster Demarcation line a line where one area of colour meets another, instead of gradually changing shade; e.g. a line of foundation created between the jaw line and neck, through poor blending of foundation, or incorrect colour Camouflage in make-up, a term used to conceal, hide or disguise a blemish or facial feature

Did you know? Eyeshadow applicators, eyeliner brushes, lip liner brushes and mascara wands are all available as ‘one use’ disposable items.

Concealers can be applied before or after foundation

Powder Make-up powder is available in loose or pressed forms. Both are used to set the foundation and prevent the skin appearing shiny, so helping the make-up look fresh for a prolonged period of time. Makeup powders may seem unfashionable, but they are one of the most important factors in giving make-up staying power.

Eye make-up Our eyes are one of the most expressive features of our face and how we enhance them is extremely important. The way eye make-up is applied can give shape and definition to the eyes. It is even possible to make the eyes appear altered in shape: for example, small eyes can be made to appear larger with careful use and blending of colours. Eye make-up consists of the following products: eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara and eyebrow pencil.

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Highlighters, shaders and blushers These can change and enhance the appearance of the face and features. Corrective shading and highlighting techniques can be used to enhance the facial contours and the shape of the eyes, nose and lips.

Lip make-up This has to be the most widely used and sold cosmetic product of them all! Most people, even if they do not wear full make-up every day, will wear a lipstick at the very least. Lip make-up consists of lipstick, lip liners or pencils and lip gloss. Lip liners should match the lipstick, although sometimes fashion dictates otherwise, with the lip liner being darker than the central lipstick colour. Lip gloss is used to enhance the lips and over the lipstick. Lipstick and lip make-up is available in a wide variety of colour and prices to suit every individual.

Aftercare advice Aftercare advice is a vital part of any treatment carried out by a beauty professional. It enables a client to get the best results from their skin care and make-up. A good beauty professional will discuss with the client how to use the products being used during the treatment and at home, and they will also advise how to remove make-up effectively at home.

Find out more You could research this section further looking at the publications below. Concentrate on looking at the images and how the overall look has been achieved with the use of make-up. Health and Beauty Magazine Professional Beauty Habia Scratch magazine Vogue Hairdresser’s journal Here are a few websites that may help you with your research tasks:

Over to you It’s all in the eyes Research beauty and fashion magazines and the internet to investigate the different looks that can be achieved with eye make-up, such as making small eyes appear larger or making eyes that are set too close together look further apart. Build a mood board of the different techniques and blends of colour that have been used. Collect as many ideas as you can, and try these out during your practical sessions.

• Elemis • Dermalogica • Decléor • ESPA.

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, RL Make-up looks 1. Choose a variety of pictures of make-up looks from a range of media. Present your findings on a mood board showing the different looks for different events: for example, bridal make-up, catwalk make-up, photographic and general make-up looks. 2. Using a fashion/celebrity magazine, investigate the latest hot make-up trend to hit the high street and find out how it has been created: for example, natural beauty, highly visible smoky eyes. 3. Discuss your findings with your group and record them. Select one image from the two research tasks as your favourite, and explain the reasons for your selection and how you would recreate the look. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, EF

Check it out 1. List the types of cleanser available. 2. Why should a toner be used during a skin care routine? 3. What is a benefit of using the correct moisturiser? 4. How would you check that the foundation colour is suitable? 5. What method would you use to ensure hygienic use of make-up? 185

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Enhancing and adapting treatments Introduction

Starting point In what ways do you think a treatment could be personalised to suit the client?

Skin care treatments need to be adapted for different skin types and client concerns, as well as for male clients. Make-up can be adapted with the clever use of colour to help enhance facial features and disguise imperfections and blemishes. You will be expected to have a good understanding of these factors and be able to discuss options with the client to plan an effective treatment. In this section, you will look at the techniques used to adapt a treatment to meet the individual needs of a client and at how to adapt make-up application to take account of the factors that influence the finished look, including personality, cultural influences, gender, age and race, as well as the purpose of the make-up application.

Adapting make-up treatments Make-up techniques can be adapted to suit the event. For example, make-up for normal daytime wear will be different from an evening occasion look or a bridal or photographic look.

Jargon buster Shaders used to make an area less obvious Highlighters used to draw attention to an area by bringing it to the forefront; usually have a ‘sparkly’ shine

It is advisable to apply make-up in the same light, or as near as possible, in which it will be seen. This is because different types of lighting can affect the appearance of the colours, and the contours and highlighters applied. You may end up with a make-up that looks too light for evening wear, or too heavy for a daytime look. Make-up can also be used to enhance or disguise features by using darker shades to take away the focus, such as in the use of cosmetic shaders and lighter shades that draw attention to areas, as in the use of cosmetic highlighters, almost allowing us to use the face as a blank canvas on which we can create a drawing.

Adapting skin care treatments This can be achieved by selecting different products to suit the client’s skin, as well as varying the equipment used. Facial steaming can enhance the benefits of treatments by warming and softening the skin and improving the penetration of products. Massage techniques can be adapted by varying the pressure between firm and light, or by adapting to suit particular areas of the face, neck and chest.

No headbands

Firmer pressure, using tools and technology

Use fragrance-free products

Adaptations for male clients

Shorter treatments

Avoid cotton wool sticking to beard

Use of sponges/ face cloths/ hot towels

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UNIT 8 Exploring skin care and make-up

Over to you Treatments for male clients In small groups, investigate local salons to investigate the treatments offered specifically for male clients. Find out what is involved in the treatments and compare them to the treatments offered for female clients. Present your information using ICT, charts or leaflets to identify: ll difference in time and cost ll variety of treatments ll difference in products. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW, EP

Top tip Enhance your make-up and photographs by using colour swatches over the client’s shoulders.

Total look In small groups, create a client profile and agree a suitable occasion. Discuss the age of the potential client, skin type, condition of the skin, tone and cultural diversity, and provide a profile of the client. You could even base the client on a photographic image if it helps. Each person in the group should create a make-up look for the client, taking account of the event and outfit, and record everything on a make-up plan. Once you have decided on the make-up, create a mood board to reflect the overall image you are trying to portray – think about the type of dress, shoes, hair and jewellery. Then present your findings to the rest of the group and ask for suggestions. Remember, criticism is always positive as it gives you the opportunity to improve. Working on each other as models, create one of the looks that you have suggested. Record your progress in a diary – say what worked, what didn’t and what you finally achieved. If possible, take photos of all the different attempts and describe what you did next to each picture.

Did you know? The internet contains hundreds of demonstrations by ordinary people on how to cleanse the skin and apply make-up. Take a look at the video-sharing website YouTube for ideas.

Find out more These websites contain further information on make-up application:

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

• L’Oréal Paris

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW, EP

• Maybelline • Bobbi Brown.

Check it out 1. In what ways can facial treatments be adapted? 2. What make-up techniques can be used to disguise or enhance features? 3. How would you adapt a make-up for a bridal look?

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Key health and safety practices Introduction

Starting point Did you know that under the Health and Safety at Work Act we all have a personal responsibility to keep ourselves safe at work – and that includes you!

Ensuring key health and safety practices are followed within a salon environment is an essential part of a beauty professional’s role in keeping both themselves and the client safe and healthy. Employers have a legal duty under the Health and Safety at Work Act to look after the welfare at work of all people they are responsible for. In return, employees must take reasonable care in their working practices to maintain a healthy working environment. This section looks at the specific health and safety requirements for performing skin care and make-up treatments, including how to protect both yourself and your clients and how to store and safely use products and equipment. You will learn the importance of following manufacturer’s instructions and, most of all, keeping the working environment safe and healthy.

Risk assessment

Jargon buster Hazard something with the potential to cause harm Risk the likelihood of a hazard’s potential being realised

Almost anything in a salon can be a potential risk, but it needn’t become a hazard. Within a salon, potential slips and trips are foreseeable as they can be caused by trailing cables, unsafe footwear, such as open toes or high heels, oils or creams on the floor, or water spillages. These hazards can be minimised by securing cables away from walkways, mopping up spillages as soon as they happen, and wearing safe, fully enclosed footwear. There are other hazards such as worn or faulty equipment or poor or incorrect labelling of products that you will need to be aware of. Risk assessments should be carried out regularly to maximise safety.

Cleaning, sterilising and disinfecting Working safely and hygienically is the most effective way to avoid potential accidents and infectious and non-infectious conditions. The work area should be cleaned daily, with surfaces wiped down with disinfectant and bins emptied. Protecting against the spread of infections is done through cleaning and sterilising the tools and equipment used for skin care and make-up application, or by using disposable items. Ultraviolet (UV) cabinet

Disinfectant

Methods of sterilisation/ disinfection

Autoclave

Glass bead steriliser

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Personal protective equipment The correct use of personal protective equipment (PPE) is essential to ensure both you and your client remain safe while applying skin care treatments and make-up. PPE

Use

Apron

To protect the beauty professional from splashes and spills, if deemed necessary

Headband

To protect the client’s hair from skin care products and make-up spillages

Towel

To protect the client from skin care products and make-up spillages

Gloves

To protect the hands against irritants and to reduce the risk of contact dermatitis, if deemed necessary

Make-up cape

To protect the client’s clothes from skin care products and make-up spillages

Find out more Look at the HSE website for details of occupational hazards relating to hairdressing – search for ‘Bad Hand Day’.

Over to you Potential risks in the salon Research through the internet, magazines or visiting local salons the potential risks that could occur in a salon. List them in order of the most likely to happen.

A headband protects the client’s hair when applying skin care treatments and make-up

Hazardous substances When working in a salon, a beauty professional will come into contact with a range of hazardous substances. Beauty salon owners are required by the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations to assess the exposure to substances used in their salon that could be dangerous to staff and clients. The aim of these regulations is to avoid using hazardous substances wherever possible and, if this is not possible, to safeguard anyone using them or exposed to them. You should follow the basic rules for the safe handling of substances and insist on the use of personal protective equipment, clearing up of spillages and using products at the correct concentrations.

The safe use of products When completing a service, a beauty professional must ensure that the client’s welfare is taken into account at all times, but they must also protect themselves and the salon. An effective consultation will ensure there are no contra-indications that may restrict or prevent a service.

From your findings, create a health and safety information leaflet that reflects your findings and offer guidance to reduce the risks. Try to make it as creative and eye-catching as possible. This could be used as part of an induction process for a newly qualified therapist. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, EF, RT

Check it out 1. What methods of sterilising and disinfecting are there? 2. State one thing you can do to make the workplace a safer place. 3. Give an example of a potential hazard. 189

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Presentation and conduct Introduction In this section, you will look at the standards required for presentation and conduct within the beauty industry. Different types of salons and spas will attract a different clientele. However, within the beauty industry you should expect the same levels of professionalism, irrespective of where a client chooses to have their treatments.

Starting point How long do you think it takes for someone to make a judgement about you when you first meet?

Making a good first impression Research has shown that people, including your clients, will often have an impression of you even before you’ve actually met! They will make a judgement based on the way in which their appointment was booked, and they will continue this judgement based on your body language, clothes, shoes, hairstyle, make-up and nails before you have introduced yourself. Their first impression also takes into account their opinion of the environment they find themselves in, your introduction and, above all, the experience they have while in your care. To ensure that you make a good first impression, it is important that you follow the professional guidelines accepted as standard within the industry. Expectations within the industry are high, starting with a uniform, which is usually a tunic and trousers, fully enclosed shoes, minimal jewellery, hair that is well-styled or off the face if long, visible daytime make-up and clean, well-manicured nails. All this goes to creating the visual image expected by most clients, helps the salon or spa project a brand image and shapes how it is perceived as a business.

Conduct the way in which you behave, your mannerisms, tone of speech and topics of conversation

Image courtesy of Inline London

Jargon buster

Your presentation needs to look professional

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Communication and body language will also be closely observed. As someone working within the beauty profession, you must have polite manners and be courteous, honest and trustworthy. This will support your professional image and create a positive impression to your clients, your colleagues and your employer. To become a successful beauty professional, you need to combine not only your technical skills and knowledge but also your professional image and communication techniques. Listening carefully to what a client says, how they are saying it and often what they do not say (body language) will help you to develop an effective therapy style, to allow you to develop a secure client base and a positive career in the industry.

Maintaining professionalism To maintain professionalism, a therapist must:

Find out more Visit the website of the independent professional body for customer service, the Institute for Customer Service.

ll act in a professional manner at all times, putting their client before themselves ll not offer or promise to offer treatments that they are not qualified to perform ll not take clients for themselves, away from their place of employment ll not perform treatments for clients who are contra-indicated without written medical approval ll observe professional confidentiality at all times ll act honourably towards each other and their clients, and not criticise other professionals.

Code of conduct Here is an example of a code of conduct: ll A clean, well-pressed uniform ll Clean, enclosed shoes ll Long hair tied securely back off face ll Short, clean nails with no varnish ll No jewellery apart from a wedding band and small stud earrings ll No body/facial piercings ll Light day make-up ll No eating, drinking or smoking allowed in the salon environment ll Fresh breath ll Good posture ll Well-mannered and communicative with peers and clients ll Excellent customer service.

Over to you Your first visit In small groups, look at the information opposite and create a storyboard/role-play about a negative and a positive first visit to a beauty salon or spa. You may be able to draw on your own experiences of professional treatments. If you haven’t visited a beauty salon, think about a hairdressing salon, or a GP/ dental surgery reception. Discuss your scenario with other groups. Some groups may wish to act out their scenario. Look at each of the scenarios and compare them, explaining why they were positive or negative and what could be done to improve the client’s experience. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: TW, CT, EP, RL

Check it out 1. State the ways you can make a good positive impression. 2. What are professional ethics? 3. Why is it important that a beauty professional communicates effectively?

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Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about make-up and skin care treatments. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Skin care and make-up services Skin types

Social and cultural influences Tools, products and equipment Client consultation and preparation for treatment Application of skin care Application of make-up Enhancing and adapting treatments Key health and safety practices Presentation and conduct 192 M08_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 192

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Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your skin care and make-up application. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in skin care and make-up. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do? Step 2 – Take action I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again. I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help. Step 3 – Review again Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit? Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions Under each of the headings opposite, try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples. 1. Did I manage to master the practical skills to carry out skin care and make-up treatments? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

Unit 8 2 questions Identifying and working with Global nature of the hair and different skin types beauty industry 1. 1. 2. 2. 3. 3. Identifying and working with Economic influences different tools, products and 1. equipment 1. 2. 2. 3. 3. Business processes and procedures 1. Completing a client consultation 2. 1. 2. 3. 3. Social, ethical and environmental issues Application of skin care 1. treatments 2. 1. 3. 2. 3. Communication with customers 1. Application of make-up 2. treatments 1. 3. 2. Promotion and selling 3. 1. 2. Enhancing and adapting skin care routines and make-up application 3. 1. Job roles and career pathways 2. 1. 3. 2. 3. Maintaining key health and safety practices and own Employability skills presentation and conduct 1. 1. 2. 3.

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Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 8 is Internal.

ll tools, equipment and materials required for make-up services

Your tutor/teacher/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, and show your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief.

ll health and safety working practices and the use of appropriate terminology and communication

Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll the types of skin care and make-up services and consideration of cultural and social influences

ll how to carry out skin care and make-up treatments and any restrictions there may be on this

ll how to review your skills and learning to inform future development. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Know the key aspects of skin care and make-up services

You will need to identify a range of skin care and make-up services commonly available in the UK

You will need to identify a wide range of skin care and make-up services commonly available in the UK

You will need to select materials, tools, equipment and products using terminology You will need to identify the factors preventing and restricting skin care and make-up services

You will need to select materials, tools, equipment and products accurately using appropriate and relevant terminology You will need to identify, in detail, the factors preventing and restricting skin care and make-up services

Be able to develop a range of make-up techniques allowing for social and cultural influences

You will need to demonstrate consideration of social and cultural influences in applying make-up

You will need to demonstrate accurate and relevant consideration of social and cultural influences in applying make-up

Be able to safely prepare and apply skin care and make-up techniques

You will need to prepare and apply skin care and make-up techniques to enhance appearance under supervision and attempt to review progress in meeting the intended outcomes

You will need to prepare and apply skin care and make-up techniques to enhance appearance with some supervision and critically review ongoing progress in meeting the intended outcomes

You will need to demonstrate a range of safe and healthy working practices

You will need to demonstrate a wide range of safe and healthy working practices

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Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to develop your understanding of a range of skin care and make-up techniques and services. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your tutor/teacher/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l Are cheap skin care products as effective as expensive ones? l Natural or made-up. What do people prefer? l Is animal testing acceptable in the 21st century?

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Unit 9 Exploring hair care and styling

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Introduction Hair care and styling are at the core of the hairdressing industry. How we care for and style our hair often reflects our personality and is usually influenced by a range of factors, including cultural influences, gender, age and race. The hair sector is rapidly growing, and if you wish to join it, you will need to be aware of a range of factors underpinning its services in order to carry out these services effectively. This unit introduces you to the basics of hair care and styling. You will understand the difference between the three industries within the hair sector – hairdressing, barbering and African-Caribbean hairdressing and barbering – and how they are uniquely different, yet still share some of the key principles underlying basic services. Within this unit, you will have the opportunity to investigate how race, gender, religion and fashion trends can be expressed through hairstyling. Throughout the practical element of this unit, you will be able to apply these resulting discoveries and demonstrate safe and healthy working practices. This unit will guide you through the different aspects of hair care and styling.

Page

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section …

LO1:

Hair styling services

Know key aspects of hair care and styling services

Hair types

200 – 201

Tools, products and equipment

204 – 205

LO2:

Social and cultural influences

202 – 203

Be able to demonstrate a range of hair care and hair styling techniques, allowing for cultural and social influences LO3: Be able to safely and effectively prepare and apply hair care and hairstyling techniques

number 198 – 199

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning. Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices within hair and beauty Unit 3 The science of hair and beauty

Client consultation and preparation for service

206 – 207

Key health and safety practices

214 – 215

Creation of hair styles and services

208 – 211

Enhancing and adapting styles

212 – 213

Presentation and conduct

216 – 217

Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation When you are complying with health and safety practices during hairdressing activities When you are using hairdressing products and preparations When you are discussing different styling options with your model/ client

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Hair styling services Introduction

Starting point Did you know there are three different types of hair care professionals who all deliver different hair services?

A fully qualified hair care professional will offer a wide range of services. They need to be able to provide a wide range of hair styling techniques required by their customers. These services could include: shampooing and conditioning, setting and dressing, blow-drying, finger drying and finishing, ‘hair up’ styles, plaiting and twisting and more. There are three main types of hair care professionals working in different, but overlapping, industries: ll hairdressing ll barbering ll African-Caribbean hairdressing and barbering. Each of these industries is distinctly different and a hair care professional needs to have different skills to work in each one of them.

Hair styling services

Jargon buster Texturising the addition of volume and movement, via a styling method such as cutting or perming, or using styling products while drying Toupée false hair to cover an area of baldness

A hair stylist is a general term used to describe a professional hairdresser who styles hair using skills in hair colouring, cutting and texturising in order to change or maintain a person’s image. Some large high street hair salons employ specialists called ‘colour technicians’ who concentrate on this specific skill. They may also employ a ‘creative director’ who will specialise in a specific area, such as cutting or restyling techniques. Barbers perform colouring and perming techniques, as well as cutting hair, trimming beards, providing facial and scalp massage and shaving. Some barbers specialise in working with artificial hair replacement products, such as toupées and hairpieces. African-Caribbean hair stylists and barbers within the UK have completed European hairdressing or barbering training qualifications and then specialised in African-Caribbean hairdressing techniques. However, the majority have developed their skills within their community, as part of their culture and heritage, and have reinforced their skills and knowledge by accessing specialist product manufacturers’ training courses. Due to the nature of African-Caribbean hairdressing and barbering, a high proportion of the specialised styling techniques and services are unique to this industry. However, there is more and more overlap with the other industries and some of these services have been adapted by stylists for fashion looks.

Types of services The diagram overleaf lists a number of services that are provided by hair care professionals. Remember that some services can be performed in more than one industry.

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African-Caribbean Hairdressing Beard trim, highlights, hair extensions, blow-dry, root retouch, relaxing, hair straightening, permanent wave, restyle

Barbering Beard trim, highlights, blow dry, restyle, facial and scalp massage, gent’s cut

Beard trim, highlights, hair extensions, blow-dry, root retouch, relaxing, hair straightening, permanent wave, restyle, cornrows, thermal styling

Hair styling services

Over to you Salon styles Research hair styling services further by visiting different salons in your area, collecting price lists and comparing the different services, prices and locations of the salons. You should notice a big difference between, for example, the prices and services offered depending upon whether the salon is located in a city centre or a village. Collate your research and then answer the following questions:

Did you know? The term ‘barber’ comes from the Latin barba meaning beard.

1. Which was the most expensive salon? 2. Which salon offered the most services? 3. Did you find salons that covered all the three industries within the hair sector?

Find out more

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics

To find out more about the different services provided by hair care professionals, you could visit the following websites:

PLTS Links: IE

• The Institute of Trichologists

4. Which salon was the best value for money? Did you find any service that was not listed above?

• Habia • National Hairdressers’ Federation

Hair styling techniques and uses

• The Hairdressing Council.

There are a range of different techniques that can be used for creating different hair styles: ll Shampooing and conditioning – carried out before other services to prepare the hair. ll Setting and dressing – used to create a range of styles from replacing blow drying for a firmer finish to preparing long hair to be dressed or creating a hair-up style.

Check it out

ll Finger drying and finishing – used to rough dry hair or to complete a finished style.

1. What are the main differences in services between hairdressing, barbering and African-Caribbean hairdressing and barbering?

ll Hair up – long hair can be pinned and dressed in various up styles and decorated for formal events.

2. Name and describe three hair styling techniques and uses.

ll Plaiting and twisting – used on a variety of hair types to create different looks.

3. Outline the options that a man has for choosing where to have his hair cut.

ll Blow-drying – the most common and popular way to finish and style the hair.

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Hair types Introduction

Starting point Did you know that hair care professionals look at a range of factors to determine a person’s hair type?

Most people think of hair in terms of being thick or fine, or curly or straight. There are several considerations when analysing hair, such as texture, density, amount of curl, elasticity and porosity. These factors will all affect the way hair can be cut, coloured and styled. You will be expected to able to recognise different hair types from both looking at and feeling the hair. In this section, you will look at the different factors that make up a person’s hair type, as well as how ethnicity and condition can determine both the colour and texture of a person’s hair.

Hair types Natural hair texture and colour depends on an individual’s ethnic origins. Human hair can be divided into three types as this image shows.

Did you know? The diameter of a human hair is 25 micrometers. One micrometer is equal to one thousandth of a millimetre.

Shoulder length, wavy hair

Long, straight hair

Short, tightly curled hair

Hair texture Hair texture refers to the diameter, or thickness or thinness, of individual hairs, and hair can be described as either fine, medium, coarse or wiry. Within the four types of hair texture, hair can also be described as thin, medium or thick, and it can be straight, curly, ‘kinky’ (tightly coiled), or wavy. The condition of the hair also affects hair texture. Hair can be healthy, normal, oily, dry and damaged, or a combination of any of these conditions. The condition of your hair can also be affected by hair styling equipment such as straighteners, crimpers or curlers. African-type hair is curly and sometimes frizzy. It can range from a very loose wave to a very tight spiral curl, depending on the person’s origins. Areas where these tight spiral curls tend to be particularly noticeable are around the hairline, crown, nape, and temple regions.

Hair density Hair density is the amount of hair strands on the head. It is measured by counting the number of hair strands found in one square inch (2.5 cm) of the scalp. Generally, the classifications of hair density are thin, medium, and thick.

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

chemical damage or physical trauma that you inflict on your hair. Each process or procedure will affect the hair’s condition, which can be described as dry, greasy, normal, or dandruff-affected.

Dry hair Dry hair can be caused by underactive sebaceous glands not producing enough sebum to coat the hair, or by other factors like over-exposure to the sun, using harsh shampoo or chemical treatments and processes on the hair.

Greasy hair Greasy hair can be caused by overactive sebaceous glands that produce too much sebum, so the scalp and the hair get too oily. Very often, greasy hair is accompanied by oily skin on the face. Again, you may find it difficult to get a style to hold and last when you have greasy hair.

Normal hair

Jargon buster Physical trauma damage caused to the hair by, for example, using a comb with broken teeth or elastic bands to secure a ponytail Chemical processes treatments performed on hair that involve the use of chemicals, such as perming or colouring

This is the ideal hair condition. It is shining, with well balanced secretion of sebum, so that the hair does not get too greasy or too dry. To maintain this condition, a well-balanced diet is essential, as is avoiding hair care products, styling techniques and chemical processes that may alter its condition.

Dandruff-affected hair Dandruff is a collection of dead skin cells that collect on the scalp’s surface. This could be due to the hair not being brushed regularly, which means that the dead skin cells can’t be shed properly. These dead skin cells are likely to clump together when they come into contact with the sebum on the scalp, resulting in large flakes that work themselves loose. As well as considering the condition of an individual’s hair, a hair care professional will also have to be aware of the client’s existing hair style, whether the length is above or below their shoulders, whether it is layered or all one length, whether it has had a chemical process such as a perm, relax or colour, and whether it is curly or straight. All these things need to be thought about before a hair care professional starts to blow-dry, set or put someone’s hair up into a style.

Over to you Analyse your own hair In small groups, examine each other’s hair closely. Make a note of the ways in which hair differs. Compare each person’s hair, taking the following elements into consideration: ll texture ll density ll condition. Create a chart to record your findings. By using these elements, you can compare and judge for yourself the type of hair you have. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE

Check it out 1. What are the main factors that influence different hair types? 2. Give two differences between African-Caribbean and Caucasian hair. 3. What are the factors that cause dry hair, and which particular type of hair is naturally dry in texture? 201

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Social and cultural influences Starting point Hair styles can be used either to ‘buck the trend’ or to blend in and conform to society or a particular culture. Can you think of two examples of this?

Introduction In this section, you will learn how social and cultural influences such as personality, race, gender and fashion can be expressed through the use of hairstyling techniques. You will also find out how a person’s culture, age and religious beliefs are taken into account when performing hair care routines and styling. The media also play an important role in communicating current fashion trends and celebrity looks. This promotes the popularity and appeal of these particular trends and changes in hair styles.

Factors influencing hair styles

Over to you In small groups, choose a variety of hair and beauty magazines and look carefully at a wide range of photographic images. Consider your initial opinions of each image – what is your first thought of the characteristics of each person, and what factors made you reach that decision? Now consider your first impression and identify the influencing factors for an individual choosing a particular hair style. Can you see how your initial impression of someone could be judgemental? Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, RL

People are different in very many ways, and it is these differences that give each one of us a unique identity. The differences that contribute to our individuality include our race, culture, gender, age or religious beliefs. In today’s multi-cultural society, we need to be aware of and respect other people’s beliefs and cultures and treat everyone with equal consideration. This is especially important in the hair and beauty sector which serves a diverse range of clients. Those working in the sector need to be sensitive to everyone’s needs and to respect their personal beliefs when considering hair styles.

How do the media, fashion and celebrities influence hair styles? Music videos, films, television, fashion and celebrity magazines can all influence hair styles. The trends they set influence young people who, in turn, copy their idols, as they are usually on the lookout for new ways to express their individuality, and hair styles are an easy way to stand out from the crowd. Celebrities and their hair stylists recognise that people are likely to be more experimental when they are young, so they tend to look at young people in the high street to see the influencing factors and the upcoming fashions and trends in hairstyling that they could adopt.

Appearances to suit the environment or occasion ll A wedding, party or special occasion – every bride, bridesmaid, or guest wants to look fantastic at a wedding and, on occasion, brides have been known to start growing their hair over a year before the date so that they can have the exact style they want. ll Job interview/career – you always want to present a smart appearance at a job interview and people have been known to go to great lengths by colouring or cutting their hair. Sometimes individuals have to wear a certain style of hair, such as in the armed forces. ll Avant-garde/fashion – an example of extremes of fashion could be the punk hair style. Followers of the trend dyed their hair unnaturally bright colours such as red, green, blue, pink or orange and arranged them into spikes or cut the hair into a Mohican. Punk hair and fashion were intended to appear as shocking and rebellious as possible, against the norms or rules of society.

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Over to you In small groups, choose a celebrity and use the internet, media and magazines to track how they have reinvented their image through their hair style. Use ICT to present your information with images. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, RL Men’s styling ideas The hair style a person chooses will dictate how a person is perceived by others. For example, if a man has long hair, he might be viewed as being rebellious, or into heavy metal; if he has a shaved head, he might be seen as being a skin-head and potentially violent. Using a passport picture, check out what different styles look like on your face shape. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT Hippie, Goth and Rocker Here are a few other examples of fashion hair styles – Hippie, Goth and Rocker. Can you outline what they represent? Are there any other extremes of individuality and characters that you can think of?

Did you know? Hairdressing is known as cosmetology in the USA.

Check it out 1. Which key factors influence hair style and trends? 2. Who dictates fashion and style?

Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT

3. How have your background, culture and the society in which you grew up shaped your perception of individuals? 203

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Tools, products and equipment Introduction

Starting point Have you ever noticed that some salons look completely different to others? What makes one stand out from another?

Essential hair salon equipment consists of styling chairs, shampoo chairs, washbasins, hair dryers, mirrors and trolleys. These standard pieces of equipment are available in a large variety of styles and help create a certain style or look in a salon. A salon will usually cater for the potential clientele in their locality, carefully looking at the demographics of their catchment area, so that they will be able to tailor their salon to target that clientele. This will also influence their choice of tools, equipment and products. Hair care professionals use a wide range of tools and equipment to create different looks and hair styles. Different industries within the hair sector, such as barbers and African-Caribbean hair care professionals, have their own unique products, tools and equipment. In this section, you will find out about the products, tools and equipment used, and the reasons and benefits of using them correctly.

Barbers use specialist products, tools and equipment

Materials, tools and equipment The hair care professional has a wide range of materials, tools and equipment to choose from. Equipment

Uses

Brushes

ll Flat – normally used for detangling hair, possibly after sleeping ll Vent and radial – can be used for styling and curling hair while using a hairdryer ll Paddle – used to straighten hair while blow-drying

Combs

ll Tail or pin – used to section the hair, e.g. when applying colour ll Straight – generally used to aid cutting hair ll Dressing – used when finishing a style or for backcombing ll Wide tooth – used to disentangle hair

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Equipment

Uses

Rollers

These are metal or plastic and come in different sizes to create various sizes of curl in the hair. Used on wet hair with the appropriate product, they create movement, curl and direction when the hair has dried

Shampoos

Available to suit the hair type; used to cleanse the hair in preparation for services

Did you know?

Conditioners

Available to suit the hair type; used to condition and hydrate the hair in preparation for services

Some of the earliest combs were used by Egyptians and were made of bone, ivory and wood.

Setting, drying and finishing products

Used to support and style the hair into a range of styles by changing the curl pattern or colour

Electrical equipment Hair/ blow-dryers

Allow you to control the shape and style of hair better, by accelerating and controlling the formation of temporary hydrogen bonds inside each hair strand

Straightening irons

Also called ‘flat’ irons or ‘styling’ irons, which refers to the fact that can be used to both straighten and curl hair

Curling irons

Used to make the hair curly

Crimpers

Give a ‘crinkled’ look to the hair. Segments of the hair can be twisted and fanned out to give an interesting look

Hot brushes

Give curl and volume to the body and can be a little easier to use than curling irons, as the brushes give the hair something to grip to

Picture this

Jargon buster Hydrogen bonds bonds within the hair that can be altered to fix a style into shape

Find out more These websites will give you more information about the ranges of hairdressing products, tools and equipment: • Habia • Nexxus • TIGI • Schwarzkopf

Getting the styling right

• L’Oréal

Choose three different people on which to complete your case study. They can be people that you know, or imaginary people. Try to come up with one client from each of the industries represented within the hair sector: hairdressing, barbering and African-Caribbean hairdressing and barbering.

• FUDGE

Once you have selected your ‘clients’, you will need to decide the best range of styling and finishing products, tools and equipment to use for each them. Research the internet, journals, magazines, textbooks and product literature and information leaflets. Take into account the length, type and condition of their hair, and their lifestyle. Choose a minimum of nine products and three different pieces of equipment or specialised tools to suit each one of your clients. Present your findings and reasons for selection for each client, product and piece of equipment and tool, either through a presentation or report. Make sure you collect pictures and relevant literature, so that you can explain your selections fully. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, EP, CT

• Tools4Hair • chill* • Salons Direct.

Check it out 1. Name three different types of brush and their uses. 2. Name a product that you would use to hydrate the hair. 3. What is a radial brush used for? 4. Name three tools used to straighten or curl the hair.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Client consultation and preparation for service Introduction

Starting point Did you know that, for the client, the final hair style created accounts for only 20 per cent of how they value their visit to a salon?

Effective communication is an essential part of the consultation process in all of the industries within the hair sector. A hair care professional needs excellent communication skills to ensure they meet the needs and expectations of their clients. A client needs to be able to trust a hair care professional to ensure that they get exactly what they want and that they know exactly what can be achieved. They want someone who cares about their hair and understands their requirements. A thorough consultation is an essential way to ensure both client and hair care professional have the same ideas and vision for the final result. It will also prevent any disappointment on either side.

Appearance and behaviour

Jargon buster Professionalism the way a person conducts and presents themselves and their industry

The consultation may be the first time you have met a new client and is your opportunity to make a good first impression and build a relationship. It is essential that you demonstrate your professionalism by being correctly presented in a clean and appropriate uniform and that the consultation area is clean and hygienic.

Consultation Look carefully at the client’s hair

Find out if the salons in your area are State Registered by looking at the Hairdressing Council’s website.

Listen to what the client is saying

What hair care professionals must do:

Find out more All hairdressers in the UK can choose to become State Registered, which demonstrates their professionalism and commitment to the sector.

Ask the right questions

Ensuring an effective consultation

A valuable way to get information from the client is to ask them ‘open questions’. These usually begin with the words ‘what’, ‘who’, ‘which’, ‘when’, ‘where’, ‘why’ and ‘how’, and will allow a hair care professional to gain detailed information that will help them decide on the service required. Closed questions, which generally result in either a ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer, are best avoided. Throughout the consultation and provision of service, the hair care professional should also be looking at the client’s body language and facial expression, as these are ‘tell tale’ signs of client satisfaction and understanding, which will ultimately affect the outcome of service. During a consultation, the professional may identify certain factors that could influence the type of service that can be provided, such as the client’s general health, lifestyle, nutrition, age or contra-indications that may limit or restrict a service.

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

An effective consultation will lead to an appropriate plan of action, which can then be noted down on a client record card or consultation sheet. Here is an example of a plan. ll Obtain information from the client, such as previous treatments and services; prepare the client for the all aspects of the treatment and agree the intended results. ll Examine the client’s hair and scalp, using the knowledge and information to complete an assessment of the hair and scalp. ll Record your findings on your plan. ll Inform the client and offer an explanation of your findings. ll Offer a course of action or advice. ll Decide, agree and confirm with the client the course of action to be followed; sometimes an alternative treatment will better suit the client’s requirements.

Over to you Personal qualities of a good hair care professional Take a few minutes to think about the personal qualities that a good hair care professional needs to make clients feel that they are valued when they are having consultation and service in a professional hair salon or barbershop. Make a list and prioritise the qualities in order of importance. Discuss your findings with a partner and see if they have prioritised the qualities that they feel are important in a different order. Then compare everyone’s results to see how frequently the same priorities occur, such as ‘a good listener’. This should result in an agreed group list of priorities, identifying the personal qualities that a good hair care professional should possess. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: TW, CT, IE, EP Design a consultation sheet An effective consultation leading to the safe preparation of a client is a basic service that, when performed correctly, reinforces the client’s confidence in the hair care professional, and ensures a satisfied client leaves the salon every time. Design a consultation sheet by making a list of questions, both open and closed, with spaces provided for responses. Try this out in your group and ask for comments and feedback to see if you can ask questions in a better way to get the answers that you’re trying to find out. Are there any improvements that you could make? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: TW, CT, RL, EP

Check it out 1. State the key communication skill required throughout a consultation service. 2. What type of question would you use to gain the maximum amount of information from a client? 3. What is meant by the term ‘contra-indication’? 4. Name two factors to consider that could affect the choice of service. 207

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Creation of hair styles and services 1 Introduction

Starting point Did you know that in the 1960s women used to use a clothes iron to straighten their hair? This was before straightening irons were invented!

Each industry within the hair sector uses different techniques to create a style or complete a service. From a wet, roller set used in hairdressing, wrapping and plaiting used on African-Caribbean hair, to finger drying used by barbers, each industry uses the same principle to temporarily change the hair structure: a strand of wet hair is stretched and styled; in its new, stretched shape, it fails to return to its normal state, so a new temporary style is created. It will only return to its original state if it becomes wet again, through washing, or being in a humid atmosphere. In this section, you will find out how a hair care professional would prepare a client for a hair care and styling service and the products used, ways of creating various hair styles using a variety of hairdressing techniques and the tools used.

Preparation procedures After carrying out a consultation, the correct products, tools and equipment will be selected. The first stage of any hair care service is using the right shampoo and conditioning treatments.

Jargon buster Atmospheric moisture humidity, or moisture level, in the atmosphere Static electricity electrical discharge resulting from the accumulation of an electrical charge on the body Cuticle the outermost layer of the hair shaft that should lie smooth in overlapping scales, pointing from the roots to the tip of the hair Chemically treated hair that has previously been permed, coloured, bleached or relaxed

Shampoo and conditioners Shampoo cleans the hair by removing sebum from the hair and scalp. Sebum is oil secreted by the sebaceous glands attached to the hair follicles, and it forms a protective layer on the hair. Sebum protects the hair from damage, but it also collects dirt, styling products and scalp flakes. Different hair types require different shampoos and conditioners and they are available in a huge variety of forms such as creams, semi-liquids, gels and bars, depending on the hair type. Shampoos and conditioners are usually named after their ingredients or essences, such as jojoba, lemon, aloe vera and mint. Shampoo

Conditioner

Dandruff, organic, solid, jelly/ gel, dry shampoo, moisturising

Reconstructurants, pH balanced, detanglers, thermal protectors, glossers, treatment, leave-in

Types of shampoo and conditioner

Styling products When completing a hair styling service, the next stage is the application of a product. Your selection of product will depend on the results of your consultation and the analysis of the hair as well as the final, finished look required. Styling products have a range of benefits. ll They prolong the life of a hair style by protecting the hair against atmospheric moisture. ll They reduce fly-away tendencies caused by static electricity. ll They help control the hair while setting or blow-drying. 208 M09_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 208

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

ll They give the hair added shine by coating the cuticle with light-reflecting ingredients. ll They may add temporary colour to the hair. The styling aids you would use will depend on what style you want to achieve, the type of hair, whether it was chemically treated, lank and lifeless, greasy or dry. The chart below gives a summary of different styling products, the type of hair they are recommended for and how to apply them.

Top tip Has the salon you visit got a professional hair care product range? If so, why not ask them what they would recommend for your hair type?

Find out more The following websites contain further information on products available. • • • • • •

TIGI Clynol Salon Exclusive Schwarzkopf L’Oréal Fred Haircare International FUDGE.

Shampoo is used to clean the hair

Styling products

Type of hair

How to apply

Setting lotion

ll Short to medium length ll Fine to normal hair

Evenly sprinkle over the hair, from roots to tips

Mousse

All hair types

Use a blob of mousse approximately the size of an orange and evenly distribute throughout the hair

Styling gel

ll Short hair ll Normal to coarse hair

Apply a small amount with the fingertips

Wax

ll All hair lengths ll Normal to dry hair

Apply a small amount with the fingertips to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair

Serum

ll Medium to long hair ll Normal to dry hair

Apply a very small amount with the fingertips to the ends of the hair

Dressing cream

ll Short to medium hair ll Normal to dry hair

Apply a small amount with the fingertips to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair

Heat protection product

ll Medium to long hair ll Dry or chemically damaged hair

Apply to the lengths before and after drying to protect against intense heat

Hairspray

All hair types

Apply evenly, in a fine mist from about 40 cm away

Types of styling products

Over to you Professional products Product manufacturers such as Wella, L’Oreal or Clynol have different product ranges for different hair types – you will find lots of information on the effects and benefits of a professional range on the internet or by visiting a local salon and collecting a brochure. Construct a client profile to include the hair type and style and a few selected problems, then decide from a range of professional products what you would recommend. Compare what you can buy in the high street to the professional products you have chosen. Record your findings on a mood board, showing how you reached your conclusion, and present your information to your group for discussion. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW 209 M09_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 209

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Creation of hair styles and services 2 Top tip llAlways dry the hair from the roots to the tips. Keep the dryer moving and point the nozzle of the dryer down the length of the hair, so that the cuticle lies flat. ll Have a look in some celebrity magazines and see if you can tell who has had their hair set.

Blow-drying The industry you are working in within the hair sector will determine what blow-drying techniques you would need to use. The basic principle of blow-drying is the removal of moisture from the hair to create a temporary style. It is referred to as a temporary look, because as soon as moisture comes into contact with the hair, the hair will revert to its original state. Blow-drying can be used to create a finished look through the use of various brushes and attachments, to rough-dry the hair when no specific styling is required or to prepare for further treatments or equipment or to soften a finished style, such as a set.

Setting and styling services Setting hair

The setting or moulding of wet hair into a new shape is called a ‘cohesive’ set and is carried out by winding wet or damp hair around a roller and drying the hair under a hair dryer before brushing and dressing the hair into the desired hair style. Setting can be carried out on most lengths of hair. You can make straight hair curly or wavy, and you can make curly hair appear smoother and straighter. In addition, you can both increase or decrease the amount of volume in the hair depending on the hair type and the size or rollers that are used. Setting is one of the techniques favoured by celebrities; they pay huge amounts of money to celebrity stylists to create the right look for that ‘red carpet’ moment.

Pin curling and finger waving Setting the hair

Jargon buster Dexterity the skill, agility or flexibility of the hands and fingers

Hair can also be curled or waved by placing it into pin curl clips, or manipulated by the fingers to produce a wave. Hair care professionals practise completing finger waves in the early part of their training, to increase the dexterity in their fingers. Finger waving and pin curling are not mainstream looks; however, they are still used for hair competition looks and high fashion photography work. Pin curling is a method of producing curl, wave or movement of varying degrees. Pin curls are secured at the root of the hair by a pin curl clip. There are several types of pin curl: ll clock spring curl ll barrel spring curl ll flat barrel spring curl ll upstand barrel spring curl.

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Find out more The following websites provide a range of information about the industry: • National Hairdressers’ Federation • Fellowship for British Hairdressing Pin curls

Finger waving is a method of shaping wet hair into waves using the fingers and a comb. The hair is moulded into an ‘S’ shape, and setting lotion helps to bond the wave. Again, finger waving is not popular at the moment, but you will still see it appearing on high fashion looks and celebrities.

• The Hairdressing Council • Habia • Hairdressers’ Journal.

Finishing a style Hair care professionals will often use straighteners, crimpers, tongs or thermal styling irons to finish a style. These pieces of equipment can create a variety of styles, from poker straight hair to spiral curls. Here are some to give you an indication of the versatility of this equipment and how they can be adapted for each industry within the hair sector. ll Heated tongs – add curl ll Straightening irons – straighten the hair ll Crimping irons – create a crimp effect ll Hot brush – adds volume and movement ll Thermal styling – thermal comb straightens the hair; thermal tongs add curl

Over to you

Did you know? Marcel Gateau, the French inventor, is credited with creating the curling iron in 1875. Hair care professionals still refer to the technique of ‘Marcel waves’.

‘Red carpet’ event Choose a ‘red carpet’ event such as a film premiere, the Oscars, BAFTAs or similar. Collect a range of images from a variety of sources that show the different celebrity looks. Complete a mood board, identifying and organising it by the styling techniques used.

Check it out

Next, using a fashion/celebrity magazine, find out the latest hair style trend to hit the high street and look closely to identify what hair styling techniques and tools have been used to create it.

1. If you wanted long wavy curls on long hair, what technique would you use to create it?

Finally, discuss this with your friends and record your findings. Select one image, from both of the research tasks, as your favourite, and explain the reasons for your selection and how you would recreate the style.

2. What hair products would you use if you had short, spiky hair?

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

3. Name three types of hair care product.

PLTS Links: IE, TW, EP

4. What is finger waving? 211

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Enhancing and adapting styles Introduction

Starting point A good hair care professional can transform a poor set or blow-dry into a masterpiece just by using the right finishing techniques!

Each industry within the hair sector uses different techniques to finish a style and complete a service or dressing out – from a wax or tonic in a barber’s, oil, spray or spritz in an African-Caribbean salon to hairspray or serum in a hair salon. The finishing part of creating a style is the opportunity for hair care professionals to demonstrate their creative artistry and flair. Within this section, you will find out about the techniques that hair care professionals use to finish a style and the ways that styles can be adapted: for example, by taking the hair up, or creating a further style or the addition of ornamentation such as clips, flowers and ribbons and the use of other techniques and services to enhance a particular look or style by the addition of colour, perm or other treatment.

Finishing and enhancing techniques Both setting and blow-drying give volume and movement to the hair in the form of waves or curls. The aim of dressing or finishing the hair is to achieve an overall balanced look in line with the features of the individual’s head and face shape.

Jargon buster Artistry a person’s imagination turned into an art form

Did you know? YouTube contains hundreds of demonstrations by ordinary people on how to blow dry, style and finish hair.

Technique

Description

Combing

Using a comb to smooth or adapt a style. Generally used in barbering

Brushing

Using two brushes (flat and/or bristle), work up the head in a continual brushing motion, alternating brushes to blend in any curls or waves

Back brushing

Brushing the hair backwards, from root to tip, to roughen the cuticle, then smoothing the top layer of the hair style to give a finished look

Back combing

Same as back brushing but using a comb instead. You can target individual areas

Styling after a wrap set

Brush the hair thoroughly in the direction of the wrap set, add dressing oil, blow-dry to create movement and dress the hair into style using any of the above techniques

Finishing techniques

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Taking hair up and dressing hair The easiest one is a ponytail. Everyone knows how to create a ponytail, but different looks can be achieved just by where the ponytail is placed, either on top of the head, to one side or divided in two with bunches. This simple technique can be adapted by wrapping a piece of hair round the tied part of the ponytail or adding a flower to disguise the securing band. An extension of the ponytail theme is a plait. This is a useful option for keeping the hair tidy. A number of ornaments can be used to dress the hair and the plait can be adapted further into braids or twists such as those used in African-Caribbean hair styling. Other methods of dressing hair include pleats, weaving, cornrows, buns and curls, both structured and loose.

Over to you ‘Hair up’ looks Research different ‘hair up’ looks and identify how they are achieved and what tools equipment and products have been used to create them. Choose one look then, using a head block or mannequin, try to recreate the style. Use hair ornaments and accessories to enhance your style. Don’t worry if you make a mistake – that’s all part of the learning process. Record your progress in a diary. Identify what worked well, what didn’t and what you finally achieved. It possible take photos of all your different attempts, then you could put what you did to achieve the look next to each picture. Once you have created your style, produce a mood board to reflect your image as a whole, including clothes, shoes, make-up and accessories to enhance your hair style. Present you findings to your group and ask for their suggestions. Remember criticism is always positive, as it gives you the opportunity to get better and better! Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, EP

The ‘hair up’ look is popular with brides

Colour, perms and cuts Hair care professionals use a number of other services to complement hair styles, such as colour, perms and cuts. Colouring the hair can used to add depth and shine, or it can be used to accentuate a feature or style by adding flashes of colour or highlights. Perms can be used to create volume or add thickness to the hair, creating the illusion that the hair is fuller.

Check it out 1. What term do professionals use to describe finishing or completing a hair style? 2. What effects can colouring have? 3. Name three methods of dressing the hair. 213

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Key health and safety practices Starting point Did you know that nearly 80 per cent of accidents are caused by human error?

Introduction Employers have a legal duty under the Health and Safety at Work Act,1974, to look after the welfare of people at work. In return, employees must take reasonable care in their working practices to maintain a healthy working environment. Ensuring key health and safety practices are followed within a salon is an essential part of a hair care professional’s role in keeping both themselves and the client safe and healthy. In this section, you will look at specific health and safety practices while performing hair styling.

Risk assessment Keeping the salon in good order is the most effective way to ensure health and safety. If you see a potential risk, remove the hazard quickly and safely or let your supervisor know as soon as possible. (To learn more about risk assessment, see Unit 8, page 188.)

Over to you Health and safety Research via the internet, magazines or visiting local salons the potential risks that could occur in a salon. List them in the order that they are most likely to happen. Create an eye-catching health and safety poster that offers guidance to reduce the risks. Ask your group to comment on the poster and summarise your findings. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, EP, RL, CT

All clean towels and clothing should be stored appropriately to prevent contamination. Once used, they should be placed in a suitable bin. All waste should be placed in a suitable refuse bin as soon as possible and removed from the premises daily. Contaminated waste, such as blood or body fluids, must be placed in special ‘contaminated waste’ yellow bags which are disposed of by the local authority.

Equipment cleaning and sterilisation What to look out for during the consultation:

Infestations e.g. pediculosis capitis and scabies

Non-infectious conditions e.g. psoriasis, dandruff, eczema, dry scalp

Infectious conditions e.g. tinea capitis, folliculitis, impetigo

Conditions and infestations

The most effective way to protect against the spread of infections and infestations is by thorough cleaning and sterilisation of equipment in: ll ultraviolet (UV) cabinet – sanitises and stores brushes, combs, scissors, and clips

Jargon buster Barbicide a chemical agent used to destroy or slow down the growth of harmful organisms

ll autoclave – sterilises small metal pieces of equipment ll barbicide – sterilises and cleans scissors, brushes and combs.

A barbicide jar

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Personal hygiene procedures Hair care professionals must maintain effective personal hygiene procedures, including regular hand washing (see Unit 1, page 18). In addition, they should cover any cuts with plasters or wear gloves.

Personal protective equipment One of the most important roles within the salon is to ensure that the client is well protected throughout a service. You will need to know the correct gowning and protection procedure, including the use of personal protective equipment (PPE). PPE

To protect

Apron

hair care professional from splashes and spills

Gown

client from substances

Towel

client from getting wet

Gloves

the hands against irritants and dermatitis

Cape

client’s clothes from getting wet

Did you know? Dermatitis is one of the main reasons hair care professionals leave the hair sector.

Uses of personal protective equipment

Dermatitis Dermatitis is a recognised hazard in the hair sector. There are two main types: ll irritant dermatitis – caused when a substance damages the skin, e.g. shampoo ll allergic contact dermatitis – a more serious, irreversible condition which occurs when a person has been exposed to a sensitising agent, possibly over a long period of time before a reaction is noticed.

Hazardous substances While working in a salon you will come into contact with a range of hazardous substances. Hairdressing businesses are required by the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations, 2002, to assess the exposure to substances used in the salon that could be potentially dangerous to staff and clients.

Find out more To learn more about health and safety, visit the following websites: • Occupational Health – NHS Plus • Habia.

The safe use of products ll Always follow instructions on the product (data sheets). ll Never mix products unless recommended by the manufacturer. ll Ensure all containers are labelled. ll Use PPE where appropriate. ll Don’t use solutions on irritated scalps or scalps with abrasions. ll Store products in a dry place at, or below, room temperature. ll Keep products away from naked flames. ll Dispose of unused mixtures and empty containers properly. ll Seal containers when not in use. When removing products from a container, to prevent cross-contamination ensure that you use a clean applicator. Products removed must not be returned to the original container.

Check it out 1. Why is it important to always read and follow manufacturer’s instructions before using products or new equipment? 2. State one thing you can do to make your workplace safer. 3. What would you do if you saw a hazard in the salon and didn’t know how to deal with it? 215

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Presentation and conduct Introduction

Starting point Did you know that a client forms a first impression of you within seven seconds?

A client can sometimes make up their mind on how well their visit to the salon will go even before the hair care professional has had a chance to speak, just by the type of environment they are in and, most importantly, if they feel comfortable. A client’s first impression of you will be based on your clothing, hair style and make-up. In this section, you will look at the standards required for presentation and conduct within the hair sector.

Salon image A hair care professional plays a vital role in maintaining the image which the salon wishes to promote. A salon owner will have spent a lot of research, time, effort and money to ensure a salon reflects the right ambience and style to meet a certain type of market, image and reputation. The style of a salon will usually dictate the type of clientele who will visit it, what types of service they would expect and what prices they would pay. The success of a business will rely on getting all these factors right. For example, an African-Caribbean hair salon usually has a relaxed feel, as the services provided tend to take a long time and clients expect this, whereas at a barbers, it tends to be more frantic as the clientele do not usually make an appointment and will wait until it is their time and then just have a quick trim. Once again, it is different in a hair salon, as clients are asked to make appointments for individual services.

African-Caribbean hairdressing salons often have a relaxed ambience

Personal appearance Your personal appearance and hygiene should reflect your professionalism and will include the following: ll a clean, pressed uniform or appropriate work wear ll short, well-manicured nails ll light day make-up ll hair tied securely back ll no jewellery apart from a watch ll maintain fresh breath. 216 M09_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 216

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Behaviour You will need to behave in a safe way, including maintaining good posture – this is essential to protect your back from injury, damage and wear and tear. It is also important to behave professionally and to be well mannered and communicative with colleagues and clients. You must maintain excellent customer care at all times. Your body language will be closely observed: the way you carry yourself, the way you speak, move your eyes, gesture with your arms or hands will give off signals for people to create their own first impressions of you. Even when you speak it will, to a large extent, enable people to form opinions about your intelligence, knowledge, skills and experience; it is often the way you speak that will be remembered more than what you actually say. Having polite manners, showing courtesy, being positive and energetic, and smiling (so long as it is genuine) helps to give a positive impression too. While you still need to be yourself, it is often useful to spend a little time observing how other hair care professionals interact with clients within the salon. When it comes to how they portray themselves, hair care professionals know only too well the importance of making a positive and lasting first impression – they might not even get to the stage of discussing a client’s requirements as the client could have just simply left the salon with a negative impression. When recalling their first visit to a salon, clients will only remember the initial impression that they formed and not the end result they received!

Picture this Katherine Barker’s experience at a new salon ‘I recently visited a new salon in my area for a blow-dry. It was the first time I had been there and I decided to pop in on the off chance. I was greeted by someone who had to ask a colleague if I could have my hair blow-dried, even though there were staff standing around who didn’t look like they were doing anything. The quick blow-dry I was expecting turned out to be an hour. They washed my hair, and my clothes – the back of my blouse was soaked. The stylist told me the reason that he was wearing a hat was that he was hiding his hair which he’d messed up (this didn’t exactly fill me with confidence). Otherwise he didn’t talk to me but spent the time chatting over me to another stylist. After the blow-dry was completed, I was shown to the desk. I was asked for my name, address and telephone number. There was no explanation given. I was then charged a lot more than I expected for a simple blow-dry. Had I not just provided my details, I would most probably have walked out!’ 1. What was Katherine’s first impression of the staff in the salon? How did this create a bad first impression? 2. What type of salon does this portray and how could this have been avoided? 3. What potential effect will this have on other potential clients wanting to visit the salon? Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: IE, TW, RL, CT

Find out more To learn more about customer service, visit the institute of Customer Service website.

Check it out 1. How can you make a good positive impression? 2. How can salons portray a certain image? 3. State how to detect certain body language and give examples.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about hair care and styling. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Hair styling services Hair types

Social and cultural influences Tools, products and equipment Client consultation and preparation for service Creation of hair styles and services Enhancing and adapting styles Key health and safety practices Presentation and conduct

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your hair care and styling. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in hair care and styling. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

Unit 9 2 questions

What did I not understand or find difficult to do?

Identifying and working with Global nature of the hair and different hair types beauty industry 1. 1.

Step 2 – Take action

2. 2.

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

3. 3.

I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help.

Economic Identifyinginfluences and working with different tools, products and 1. equipment 2. 1. 3. 2.

Step 3 – Review again Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit? Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions Under each of the headings opposite try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences. The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples. 1. Did I manage to master the skills to carry out hair care and styling?

Business processes and procedures 3. 1. Completing a client consultation 2. 1. 3. 2. Social, ethical and 3. environmental issues 1. Preparation for creation of hair 2. styles and services 3. 1. 2. Communication with customers 1. 3. 2. Creation of hair styles and services 3.

2. What could I improve on?

1. Promotion and selling

3. Where shall I look for help?

1. 2.

To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away, you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

2. 3. 3. Enhancing and adapting styles Job roles and career pathways 1. 1. 2. 2. 3. 3. Maintaining key health and Employability skills safety practices and own 1. presentation and conduct 1. 2. 2. 3. 3.

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 9 is Internal. Your tutor/teacher/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, and show your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief. Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll the types of hair and hair styling techniques ll tools, equipment and materials required for hair styling services

ll how to prepare and carry out hair styling services considering social and cultural influences ll health and safety working practices and the use of appropriate terminology and communication ll how to review your skills and learning to inform future development. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Know key aspects of hair care and styling services

You will need to identify a range of hair and hair styling techniques

You will need to identify a wide range of hair and hair styling techniques

You will need to select materials, tools, equipment and products using basic terminology

You will need to select materials, tools, equipment and products accurately using appropriate and relevant terminology

Be able to demonstrate a range of hair care and hair styling techniques allowing for cultural and social influences

You will need to demonstrate hair care and hair styling techniques considering social and cultural influences

You will need to demonstrate accurate and relevant consideration of social and cultural influences in applying hair care and hair styling techniques

Be able to safely prepare and apply skin care and make-up techniques

You will need to prepare and apply hair care and hair styling techniques that enhance appearance You will need to review your progress against the outcomes

You will need to prepare and apply hair care and hair styling techniques that enhance appearance and critically review your ongoing progress against your outcomes

You will need to demonstrate a range of safe and healthy working practices

You will need to demonstrate a wide range of safe and healthy working practices

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UNIT 9 Exploring hair care and styling

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to develop your understanding of a range of hair styling techniques and services. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your tutor/teacher/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l What is the cause of ‘a bad hair day’? l Is there a cure for alopecia? l Where did it all go? A look at baldness and how it affects self esteem

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Unit 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Introduction This unit is about the importance of hand care and nail art treatments in the beauty industry and how these have progressed and expanded over the years. After completing this unit successfully, you will have gained relevant knowledge and understanding of all the different nail and hand care treatments available within the industry and how these are influenced by other sectors, for example media, celebrities and fashion. You will also learn about the different products and equipment used to perform a hand or nail art treatment. This will help you to be able to develop your skills and to progress further with your treatment.

Learning outcomes (LO)

Covered in section …

LO1:

Hand care and nail art treatments.

224 – 225

Nail shapes and types

226 – 227

Social and cultural influences

228 – 229

Creation of nail art designs

234 – 237

Know the key factors of hand care and nail services that have contributed to the rapid growth of the nail industry LO2: Be able to develop a range of hand and nail art allowing for social and cultural influences LO3: Be able to safely prepare and apply hand care and nail art services

Page number

Links to other units This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning.

Tools, products and equipment

230 – 231

Enhancing and adapting techniques

238 – 239

Client consultation and preparation for treatment

232 – 233

Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices within hair and beauty

Key health and safety practices

240 – 241

Unit 3 The science of hair and beauty

Presentation and conduct

242 – 243

Unit 4 Communication and client care within hair and beauty Unit 5 History of hair and beauty in society Unit 6 Promoting and selling hair and beauty products and services by professional recommendation When you are communicating about health and safety issues When you are promoting hand care and nail art services When you are carrying out client consultations and hand and nail treatments 223

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Hand care and nail art treatments Starting point To give clients the best possible service, you need to know l the full range of treatments l and their benefits.

Introduction The hand care and nail art market offers many treatments to help improve the condition and appearance of the hands, skin and nails. It is a highly competitive area that has grown vastly over the years. In this section, you will look at the different treatments and their benefits to the hands and nails.

Manicure This was the first and remains the main hand care treatment performed by nail technicians/practitioners in the industry. A basic manicure can be adapted or enhanced to include other treatments. The technician/ practitioner follows a routine to make sure the client receives the maximum benefits.

A basic manicure routine

Technique

Indications for use

Benefits

Filing nails

Broken edges on nails, uneven nails, different nail lengths

To make the correct nail shape required

Cuticle work

Split, dry overgrown cuticles on the nail plate

ll Cuticle cream softens and nourishes the cuticles

Exfoliating skin

Dry, discoloured and any hard skin

Removes excess dead skin cells, leaving skin smoother and less discoloured

Hand and arm massage

ll Dry, dehydrated, sluggish skin ll Arthritis sufferers

ll Stimulates the blood and lymph flow ll Improves skin colour and texture ll Relaxes client ll Makes skin and nails softer and more nourished ll Increases joint mobility and improves muscle tone

Buffing nails

ll Bluish nails, transverse or longitudinal ridges ll If a client does not want nail enamel applying

ll Increases circulation to the nail ll Reduces any appearance of ridges ll Adds sheen to the nail plate

Application of base coats

ll Stained, weak and ridged nails ll If client wants to wear an enamel

ll Protect the nails from staining or the nail enamel

Application of nail enamels

ll Cover up damaged nails ll Special occasion ll To look good

ll Strengthens and protects the nails ll Improves the look of the nails

Application of top coats

ll Dry, weak nails ll When cream enamel has been applied

ll Protects enamels ll Gives a gloss finish ll Dries the enamel more quickly

ll Cuticle remover helps remove dead skin on the nail plate

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Picture this

Jargon buster

Make the most of your hands Katie, 26, is a full-time hair stylist. She has:

Dehydrated lacking in moisture

ll dry, overgrown cuticles

Lymph flow flow of waste products through the lymphatic system in a human body

ll overgrown cuticles ll dry hands ll soft, short uneven nails

Joint mobility amount of movement in our joints

ll poor circulation. 1. What would you do with Katie’s cuticles in a treatment? 2. How would Katie’s dry hands be improved? 3. What part of the treatment would improve her circulation? 4. How would you improve the shape of Katie’s nails? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: EP, CT

Nail enhancements Nail enhancements are the most recent addition to hand and nail treatments and expanded this area vastly when they were introduced. There are different systems of nail enhancement structures that can be applied to the nails, including:

Muscle tone amount of tension in the muscle Increases circulation the flow of blood around the body has been speeded up Transverse lines or ridges that go across the nails from side to side Longitudinal lines or ridges that go from the free edge of the nail to the base

ll acrylic nails ll gel nails

Over to you

ll fibreglass nails ll silk wrap nails. They can either be applied to the natural nail as an overlay to give the nails a lot more strength, or over a nail tip to extend the length of the nail and protect the natural nails until they grow.

Nail art Nail art can be applied to the natural nail or to nail enhancements. It can be adapted to suit everyone’s tastes, no matter how elaborate or simple. When planning and providing nail art for a client it needs to be well organised and offered as a stand-alone service as it can take quite some time to complete. Prepare the area and the client, and then complete a thorough consultation to make sure of this. Nail technician/ practitioner wearing nail art may encourage sales in this area Complements manicure treatments

Covers discoloured nails

Benefits of nail art

Adds strength to nail

Completes client’s overall look

Planning nail art In pairs, discuss what questions you would ask a client during l a consultation. Design a nail art questionnaire for a client to complete and try this out with your group. Record your findings and adapt the questionnaire to get the maximum benefit from it. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: TW, CT, RL

Check it out 1. What are the benefits of buffing paste? 2. Name two nail enhancement structures. 3. Why is top coat applied to the nails in a manicure? 4. Give two benefits of nail art. 225

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Nail shapes and types Introduction

Starting point The nail shape and type will l affect the treatment that l the client will receive.

There are many different nail shapes and types. A nail technician/ practitioner will be able to recognise these and give advice. In this section, you will learn about the main nail shapes and the conditions that may affect the nails. You may find it helpful to refer to Unit 3, pages 64/65.

Nail shapes There are five main basic nail shapes. ll Oval – this is the ideal shape as it offers the most strength and support to the free edge. It is suitable for most hand shapes. ll Almond – this shape is very similar to oval, but the sides are more sloping. This shape is more realistic for the client, as it allows for any small breakages at the sides. It looks good on a client who has short nails and would like them to appear long. ll Round – this is a good choice for anyone who has round, short nail plates, or for clients who are not allowed long nails at work. ll Square – this shape is difficult to maintain as the corners break easily. ’Squoval’ shape is starting to replace the square shape. This is square in shape but with the corners rounded off. It is most suitable for a longer finger and nail plate. ll Pointed – this shape should not be recommended as it offers no support to the nail and leaves it weak at the tip, so it will break easily. Almond shape would be better. Round

Oval

Almond

Square

Pointed

Nail shapes

Assessing the client’s nails Before beginning a treatment, the client’s nails must be assessed to decide the most suitable nail shape for them. You will also need to consider the client’s: ll lifestyle ll occupation ll fashion ll age ll nail condition, including their strength and health ll pre-existing natural nail shape.

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Different nail types At the same time as the technician/practitioner is completing a hand and nail analysis, they will need to recognise the different conditions of the client’s hands and nails in order to give the correct advice. Nail type

Causes

Advice given

Brittle

Occurs with ageing. Ridges can be due to arthritis. Repeated use of nail strengtheners will cause brittle nails

Weekly manicures with use of top and base coat (ridge filling) for brittle nails. Nails to be kept at a manageable length; massage oil into them

ll ll ll ll

Shatters easily Inflexible Vertical ridges Splits below the flesh line ll Nail plate may curve Dry ll ll ll ll ll ll ll

Hang nail Flaking Peeling White spots Lacks lustre Transverse ridges Rough to the touch

Damaged/weak ll Very thin and bends easily ll Very short in length ll Feels rough to touch ll Nail layers will split ll Dry cuticles are usually present

Ageing ll ll ll ll

Ridges Discolouration Dry and brittle May twist and curve

Normal ll ll ll ll

Healthy pink colour Smooth to touch Good flexibility No flakes, splits or ridges

Thickened ll ll ll ll

Ridged Yellow in colour Brittle Very thick nail plate

Nail types

Usually abuse from the external elements, e.g. not wearing gloves. Also illness, stress and poor diet can cause dryness. White spots and transverse ridges may occur due to the dry cuticles pressing on to the nail plate. As the spots reach the free edge, they flake and cause the nail to peel

Weekly manicures with use of heat treatments. Use base and top coat for dry nails and wear gloves when washing up, cleaning, etc. Regularly massage hand cream and cuticle oil into hands and nails

Nail biting or false nails worn for too long or incorrectly removed. Look out for dry or bitten cuticles. May also result from the use of strong medication

Weekly manicures with hot oil or other heat treatments. Do not apply false nails. Do not pick or bite nails. Always keep the nails covered with top/base coats, and wear gloves. Keep nails short until they healthier

Menopause is a common cause of this condition; also caused by arthritis/ rheumatism

Regular manicures with hot oil and other heat treatments. Use a ridge filling base coat. Regularly massage cuticle oil and hand creams into the hands and nails

Good nail care and a well balanced diet

Regular manicures. Use gloves and apply massage oils and creams regularly

Fungal infection, pressure on the nail, or a medical condition such diabetes

Soak nails well before cutting as they will be hard due to thickness. Regular filing is the best way to keep the length down. Any infection, refer to their GP

Over to you How do people look after their nails? Design a questionnaire to find out about people’s hand and nail routine. Here are some questions: ll What kind of lifestyle do you have? ll What is your occupation? ll How often do you wear gloves? ll Have you ever worn nail enhancements? ll How often do you have manicures or hand treatments? Try out your questionnaire on 15–20 people. Present your results and discuss these with your group. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT

Jargon buster Free edge the tip of the nail Hang nail a small piece of skin growing from the nail wall Menopause period when menstruation stops Arthritis/rheumatism inflammation and pain of the joints Fungal infection a condition that can occur on the nails and skin of the body

Check it out 1. Which is the most realistic nail shape? 2. At what stage of a treatment does the technician/ practitioner decide on the nail shape and type? 3. What should a healthy nail look like? 227

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Social and cultural influences Introduction

Starting point Do people from different social backgrounds and cultures try l different types of hand care?

Hand care and nail techniques differ from one culture to another. When visiting overseas there is a chance that you would have a different experience from the one at home. When receiving a treatment the main decision is to look for a salon that has highly trained and well-educated professionals with experience within the industry. Clean premises, quality products and the right equipment are essential. It’s important too that the client and nail technician/practitioner can communicate with and understand each other. In this section, you will explore the different influences and trends that affect the social and cultural factors within the industry.

Cultural factors There are many different cultures around the world and some of these differ in how they present their hands and nails. Some countries see it as part of their religious beliefs. In eastern areas of the world, people have been painting their hands and nails as an art form – Mehndi-Henna – for centuries. Henna stains the fingernails and strengthens the nail and cuticle by attaching to the keratin strands of the nail. Henna also helps prevent fungal infections occurring on the nails. Different patterns and pictures are drawn on the hands as well as the nails and are used to celebrate a variety of occasions such as the birth of a child, marriage or birthday. In Britain, various celebrities have popularised it as an art form.

Social and economic factors Over the last 20 years, manicures, nail art and nail enhancements have grown in popularity. A range of social and economic factors have allowed people worldwide to enjoy hand and nail care treatments. ll Lifestyles have improved. ll More people are training to become technicians/practitioners in this field. ll The techniques available for manicures, nail enhancements and nail art have expanded. ll People have more disposable income. ll The media constantly advertise all the different trends and fashions in this area through magazines, internet and television, and so on. ll Celebrities influence the different trends by the wearing the products and using the services. Mehndi-Henna is an ancient art form

Personality A person’s character or identity can affect the way they have their nails. Everyone has likes and dislikes, and some clients will be more adventurous than others when having nail treatments.

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Choosing nail enamels Enamel colours

There are hundreds of different colours of nail enamels. Your client’s choice will depend on the colours they prefer and what suits them. The client’s skin colour should determine what colours suit them the best: ll Asian skin colours suit purples, dark greys, greens, pinks, coral, bronze, soft plums and dark wines. Colours to avoid: true bright reds, pastel shades and yellow-based colours, as these make the skin look sallow.

Jargon buster Sallow yellowish skin colour

ll Black skins suit very strong dark colours or strong vivid colours like bright oranges, reds and pinks. Colours to avoid: pastels and browns, as these will not complement the nails well. ll White skins will depend on the tone of the skin as to the colours that will suit it. When choosing the enamel colour, you will also need to consider these points: ll Dark enamels draw attention to the nails, but they make the nail plate appear smaller, so are recommended for larger nail plates. ll Light enamels make the nail plate look larger. They also can disguise a poor nail shape. ll Pearlised enamels attract attention to the nails, so they are better applied to a small, shorter nail plate.

Types of enamels

Over to you Nails and handcare Design a questionnaire to find out about people’s likes and dislikes towards nails and hand care. Here are some example questions: ll Do you like nail enhancements? If so, which type have you had applied? ll What colours do you like applied to your nails?

There are three types of enamel available: ll one-coat application for quickness ll a crème enamel that has two coats and a top coat to add shine

ll What type of nail art would you wear?

ll a pearlised enamel that has three coats and does not need a top coat as it already has a shine.

ll What types of hand care treatment have you had?

Different occasions

ll Have you ever had a henna treatment? If so, why?

Where a client may be going or what type of work they do will determine the hand and nail treatments they will require; for example, a business manager may require simpler nail art than a model in a top fashion show.

Try out your questionnaire on 15–20 people. Present your results in a chart or graph.

Occupation

Party

Wedding

Photographic work

Occasions

Fashion show

Holiday

Business trip

Formal evening

Discuss these with your group. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, SM

Check it out 1. What is the name given to the staining of the nails that originates from eastern countries? 2. What colour enamels are not suitable for Asian skin types? 3. How do the media influence hand and nail treatments?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Tools, products and equipment Introduction

Starting point Theltools,lproductslandl equipmentlusedlaffectl theltreatment.

Hand care and nail art professionals are expected to have a thorough knowledge and understanding of all the products, tools and equipment that are used in a range of treatments. They should also know how and when to use these within the treatments.

Materials, tools and equipment The professional has a wide range of products, tools and equipment to choose from. Nail buffer Hoof stick

Cuticle nippers

Emery board Manicure tools Equipment

Uses

Nail scissors

Reduce the length of the nail where there is a considerable amount to take off

Emery board

Reduces length and shapes and smoothes the free edge of the nail

Cuticle knife

Pushes back the cuticles and removes any dead loose cuticle that has adhered to the nail

Cuticle nippers

Used to clip hang nails and any excess cuticles on the nail plate

Orangewood sticks

Used to apply products to the nail and to clean enamel from around the cuticles and the free edge

Hoof stick

Used to push back the cuticles and to apply cuticle cream to the nail plate

Nail brush

Used to clean the nails under the free edge and to remove any grease or product from the nail plate

Nail buffer

Used to give sheen to the nail and to smooth out any ridges on the nail plate

Thermal mitts

Electrically heated. They help penetration of products and arthritic pain. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for use

Paraffin wax heater

Provides paraffin wax baths for client’s hands, to help soothe pain, increase joint mobility and absorb products

Manicure tools and equipment

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

In addition to the above tools and equipment, there are extra ones used in other nail treatments. Equipment

Uses

Dotting/ marbling tool

This has a tiny steel ball at the end. Ideal for creating flowers by dipping the steel ball into the chosen pot of paint to create dots and also used to mix colours together to create a marbling effect

Fan brush

Ideal for sweeping colour across the nail in a single movement because of its wide set of bristles

Fine detail brush

A small, very fine, pointed brush used for precise, detailed work

Flexi brush

This is a striping brush in its own bottle of paint. Used for creating wisps, lines and strokes

Air brushing machine

This consists of a compressor that pressurises the air and then the airbrush is attached to this by a hose and held in the hand. It is in the air brush that the air is mixed with the paint before it is forced out to create the colour spray

Nail art tools and equipment

General equipment for all the above treatments will consist of:

Hand care and nail products Equipment

Uses

Nail polish remover

This is a solvent that contains acetone or ethyl acetate which dissolves the nail polish. It also contains an oil to help counteract the drying effect of the solvent

Cuticle massage cream

Contains lanolin, glycerol, vitamins and beeswax. Very nourishing to the nail and prepares it for the knife and nippers

Cuticle remover

This is very caustic so must be removed at the end of its use in a manicure, or the skin around the nail will become red and sore. Do not use on broken skin

Buffing paste

This contains a mild abrasive such as pumice powder or butyl state. Only a very small amount to be applied to the nail plate

Hand creams and oils

Oil is suitable for most skin types and provides more slip. Creams are more nourishing and are suitable for dry skin types

Nail strengtheners

Only use on the nail plate as it can excessively dry out the skin if it comes into contact with it. This is due to the formaldehyde in the strengtheners. It dries out the nail and makes it harder

Base coat

This has a high resin content and contains nitrocellulose. It can be clear or opaque in colour

Nail enamel

This contains solvents, resins, nitrocellulose, colour and plasticisers. Pearlised enamel also has fish scales added to it. Replace top when not in use as this maintains the shelf life of the product

Top coat

Contains nitrocellulose, resin and plasticisers. It hardens and seals the varnish

Over to you Products used in hand care and nail art Visit local shops and salons, and look in magazines to find the numerous products on offer for hand care and nail art treatments. Your research should include: ll manicure products – as listed above. ll nail art products – nail paints, polishes, top coat, transfers, self-adhesive stickers, gel colours, flat stones, transfers, rhinestones, foils and acrylic colours. Collect leaflets on them and discuss your findings with your group. Make a scrap book with them, labelling all the products. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, SM, EP

Jargon buster Solvent used for dissolving a product Caustic can burn the skin Abrasive gritty or harsh substance

Check it out 1. What tool gives the nail its shape? 2. Name three manicure products. 3. Name two types of brush used in nail art designs. 231

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Client consultation and preparation for treatment Starting point The consultation will affect the treatment to be carried out.

Introduction A nail technician/practitioner working in the hand care and nail art industry needs to consider a consultation plan with their client as this is a vital part of a hand and nail treatment. In this section, you will discover how important it is to complete a thorough consultation with a client and how to prepare for a hand and nail treatment.

Consultation A full consultation consists of the client completing a record card and discussing a treatment plan with their technician/practitioner to decide what they want from the treatment.

Record cards

Over to you Planning hand and nail art treatments Working in pairs, design a treatment plan that you would be able to use with a client who wishes to have a hand care or nail art treatment. When you have completed this plan try it out on each other to see if it is a good, thorough plan to use on any of your clients. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT PLTS Links: TW, CT, EP

These should be completed for all treatments. They contain confidential, personal information, and should be stored in a locked metal box or filing cabinet. Along with the usual client details (see Unit 4 page 95), a record card should show the required nail shape, nail enamel choice and nail analysis details. A record card should always be updated after each treatment. This enables you to check any information when needed, for example: ll if a colleague takes over the treatment ll course or other details ll purchase of a product from a previous treatment ll if a client needs to be contacted to cancel a booking. Discuss the client’s requirements

Match a treatment to the client’s needs

Explain the treatment procedure to the client

Discuss any cost, time, frequency and possible courses of treatments

Record aftercare advice, homecare advice and product purchases Completing a treatment plan

Achieving an effective treatment plan Technicians/practitioners need to have good communications skills when carrying out a treatment. It is important to speak clearly and accurately and use positive body language such as good posture, eye contact, smiling and nodding of the head. 232 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 232

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Also essential are good questioning techniques since the technician/ practitioner needs to get accurate information so that they can carry out a successful treatment. Open questioning techniques should be used wherever possible as this will encourage the client to give more detailed information. Open questions begin with the words ‘what’, ‘who’, ‘which’, ‘when’, ‘where’, ‘why’ and ‘how’. Closed questions should be avoided. They often begin with ‘do you’ or ‘have you’ and the answer will usually be yes or no, which leads to a one-sided conversation.

Checking for contra-indications A contra-indication prevents or restricts the treatment. When completing a consultation plan the technician/practitioner must check for contra-indications. It is very important that a technician/practitioner can recognise these as this will prevent harm to both the client and themselves. It will also prevent cross-infection or secondary infection.

Contra-indications preventing treatments ll Viral infections ll Fungal infections

Over to you Knowing contra-indications In small groups, research the contra-indications to hand and nail treatments listed opposite. Then complete a poster with pictures and descriptions of each of the contra-indications. Sort them into two groups: those that prevent treatment, and those that restrict treatment. Discuss your findings with the rest of your group. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: TW, RL

ll Bacterial infections ll Severe eczema and psoriasis ll Severe nail separation ll Severe bruising in the area

Contra-indications restricting treatments ll Broken bones ll Any undiagnosed swellings ll Minor nail separation ll Minor eczema and psoriasis ll Badly bitten or damaged nails ll Cuts or bruising in the area

Preparation of area When carrying out treatments the technician/practitioner should always prepare the area before the client arrives as this looks professional. The area must be prepared correctly. ll Wipe trolleys and surfaces with disinfectant before and after use. ll Wipe chairs regularly with hot soapy water. ll Use clean towels for every client. ll Use a lined waste bin. ll Store all tools and products correctly. ll Sterilise equipment.

Top tip If a client has a contra-indication, it is important that the nail technician/ practitioner does not attempt to diagnose the problem. Instead, they must always refer the client to their GP to get the problem checked out. The technician/practitioner is not a professional in this field and is not insured to diagnose.

Jargon buster Cross-infection when micro-organisms (bacteria) are transferred from a person or an article to another person Secondary infection when another infection develops after the first one

Check it out

ll Check any electrical equipment before use.

1. Why should a consultation be carried out?

Preparation of client

2. If a client has a contra-indication, why should you refer them to their GP?

ll Ensure the client is sitting comfortably and correctly for treatment and is well supported. ll Ensure all jewellery is removed. ll Complete a record card. ll Carry out a full consultation with the client.

3. Why should the treatment area be prepared before the client arrives for a treatment? 233

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Creation of nail art designs 1 Introduction

Starting point Did you know that nail art started around 5000 years ago?

There is a whole new fashion industry that has been built up around nails. Nail art professionals have to keep up to date with all the latest trends and need to practise their skills to be able to work confidently. With so many different types of nail designs, the options are endless. People may choose something simple or something more intriguing and ultra-modern.

History of nail art Nail art began 5000 years ago. Its history is constantly developing, being built up by nail art techniques and styles. Today’s fascinating and innovative nail art trends are the latest fashion. The nail art that we have today dates back to 1932, when a company made a new type of nail enamel using pigments instead of dyes. This gave rich, opaque nail enamel in a variety of shades. Since then, nail enamels have developed, and various services for the nails can be provided including nail enhancements such as nail tips, acrylics and gel-formed nails, and airbrushing.

Creating nail art Different types of nail art creations complement both natural nails and nail enhancements. Here are some of the ways of applying nail art.

French polish application This is the most requested treatment within a manicure or artificial enhancement treatments. For a French polish, you need to consider: ll Are the nails long enough? ll Do you have a steady hand? ll The white polish must not be too thick. French polish can make a short nail look longer and slimmer.

A French manicure

Flat stones application The flat stones are picked up with an orangewood stick that is damp and then placed on to a surface of wet polish or top coat, which secures the stone as it dries. When dry, apply two layers of top coat to seal it. 234 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 234

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Glitter application For this, use the rolling technique with the brush. Roll the brush between the thumb and index finger to take up the glitter mixture, and then lift the brush out so that it is evenly coated. ll Glitter dots – to make a glitter dot, roll a ball of glitter into a small bead shape, place the bead on the nail and use circular movements to distribute the glitter into the right sized dot. After it has dried, apply two coats of top coat to seal. ll Glitter and flicks – after nail polish has been applied, make two flicks of colour of the client’s choice, and then apply a flick of glitter in between the two flicks of colour. ll Glitter polish – this can be used to create different designs, and to cover the whole of the nail with glitter or just to place glitter over the tip of the nail. Apply this over the nail polish that the client has chosen and then seal with a top coat.

Transfer application The transfers work by peeling off the back sheet, then applying to the nails on top of two coats of coloured polish. Finally, seal the transfer with two coats of top coat.

Striping application A self-adhesive tape is applied to the nail and then trimmed with a pair of scissors. When the polish has dried, cut a piece of striping tape slightly longer than needed and position it sticky side down. Trim the tape down to the free edge and secure. Apply two coats of top coat to seal.

Stencil application Place the stencil of the client’s choice over the nail where the pattern needs to be, apply colour to this and then remove stencil. The pattern is then left to dry. Seal with two coats of top coat.

Blending colour application There are various ways of achieving colour blending, including ll using a combination of desired colours, place dots on the nails and then merge as desired. ll blending with a wet mixture of acrylic paints by dragging colours over each other to form a blended colour. Opalescent blending gives a glittering rainbow of colours over a dark polish. After the nail enamel has been applied to the nail, apply a thin coat of opalescent paint onto the nail with a striping brush and sweep from side to side, gradually working up to the free edge.

Jargon buster Opalescent – iridescent, showing rainbow colours

Foiling application These are placed on the nail and fixed with adhesive after the nail has had the enamel applied. Then paint the nail or draw a design on to the adhesive and wait for it to dry clear. Rub with a cotton wool bud to form a good bond. Press the foil firmly on the nail and then peel off. The foil will remain attached to where the adhesive has been applied. Apply two coats of top coat to seal.

Marbling application After application of the polish, use a marbling tool to apply a drop of each chosen colour to the corner of the nail. With the large end of this tool swirl the paint colours together to create the marbling effect. Apply two coats of top coat to seal. 235 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 235

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Creation of nail art designs 2 Airbrushing application

Over to you Creating nail art for an occasion Decide on a theme for your nail art: for example, a Christmas party, TV advert or bridal show, and create up to six different designs for this theme. Draw these designs first on to paper and then transfer them on to nail tips to see how they work. You could take pictures of your designs and make a scrapbook. Discuss your results with your group. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: IE, CT, SM

A fine mist of colour is applied to the nails using compressed air. It is not an easy treatment to master but, when it has been, it speeds up design applications and so increases the profits. The equipment needed for airbrushing is very expensive compared with other nail art products. All airbrushing systems have their own methods of use and manufacturers usually offer training with their products. The following guidelines apply to all systems. 1. Place paint into the airbrush as instructed by the manufacturer, then practise spraying on to a paper towel before applying to the client’s nails. 2. Practise on numerous nail tips to save making mistakes and time on paying clients. 3. When applying colour, build it up in fine layers rather one thick layer. 4. Before adding the next colour to the airbrush, make sure the first colour has been removed completely.

Stencilling with an airbrush This gives almost instant results. By placing the stencil at varying distances to the nail, it will soften or sharpen edges. The further away the stencil is held from the nail, the softer the edges, so the designs that can be made are limitless.

Advantages of air brushing over free-hand designs ll Quicker drying time ll Smooth finish ll Lines are more accurate ll More designs and effects are available

Nail art with gels and acrylics These can be used to create a more permanent design. Nail art paints can be used over the gel/acrylic base or the products can be used to create designs themselves. The design will not chip or fade, and the client can also apply coloured nail enamel over the top if they grow bored with the look.

Nail art procedure Before starting a nail art treatment, carry out a full consultation. This must include: ll condition of the client’s hands ll reasons for treatment ll lifestyle of the client – consider their job, if they have children and what hobbies they have, as this can influence the choice and application of the nail art ll personal preference. When this has been agreed, the treatment can be carried out. 236 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 236

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Aftercare advice Always give the client advice on how to look after their hands and nails, which should include these points: ll Wear gloves when washing, gardening or cleaning. ll Do not use the nails as ‘tools’. ll When bathing, try not to soak the hands for too long, and dry thoroughly. ll If nail chips, use a suitable nail file to smooth the nail. ll Reapply top coat every few days to maintain the life of the design.

Media designs There many opportunities to create nail art other than in the salon. These include: ll fashion shows ll photographic work ll weddings ll competitions ll film sets. In these environments, there is the chance to be a lot more adventurous and avant-garde. When planning this kind of event, there could be various other people involved such as hairstylists, make-up artists, models and fashion designers, photographers, and so on. Your plan will need to be clear and accurate as this is only part of an overall image, and the nail art will need to blend with clothing, make-up and accessories.

Over to you Contra-actions to nail art Find out what happens when the client has a reaction to the treatment, either during or after it. For example, an allergy may appear on the face or neck rather than the nail, as this is already dead. This does not usually occur in nail art until 24–48 hours after the treatment. Do some research to find out what other contra-actions there can be, and what symptoms a client may show. Present your findings in l a poster. Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: CT

Top tip The nail technician/practitioner wearing nail art designs will encourage interest from the clients to do the same.

Check it out 1. List five methods of applying nail art. 2. Why do you need to seal nail art? 3. When was nail art first used? 4. Name two contra-actions to nail art.

Some elaborate nail art designs

5. Why is it a good idea for the technician/practitioner to wear nail art? 237

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Enhancing and adapting techniques Introduction

Starting point Do people really benefit l from hand treatments?

The hand and nail market is a highly competitive area, so it is important to know and be able to carry out all the extra treatments that are on offer to help complement the treatments that you have already explored. This section looks also at how treatments may be adapted to suit the client.

Hand care enhancing techniques There are several different treatments that can be used to complement a manicure treatment.

Exfoliating of the hands and arm This is usually carried out before a massage to lessen dry skin problems. The product is slightly abrasive and is in a cream form. It is massaged into the skin. Benefits: ll Removes dead skin cells (desquamation).

Jargon buster Massage medium the type of substance the nail technician/practitioner uses to massage the client with, e.g. oil, cream or talc

ll Enables better absorption of the massage medium that will be applied. ll Improves circulation and skin texture.

Thermal mittens This treatment heats up the skin’s tissues. Oil or cream is applied to the hands before the massage routine in a manicure and then the hands are wrapped in cling film and placed in the mitts for 10–20 minutes. After removing mitts and cling film, massage the remaining product into the hands and continue with manicure. Benefits: ll Increases circulation and encourages penetration of product. ll Improves skin colour and texture. ll Induces relaxation. ll Softens the skin.

Thermal mittens

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Paraffin wax Paraffin wax comes in a block or pellet form. It should be heated and melts at approximately 37°C. The liquid wax is applied in a thick layer to the hand and fingers in a manicure. It should be applied either before or after the massage. Once the liquid begins to set, wrap the hands in tin foil or cling film to insulate them and then wrap in towels. Leave for 10– 20 minutes until set and then peel off the wax and dispose. Continue with the manicure.

Over to you

ll Aids relaxation and soothes nerve endings.

How do you care for your hands? Design a questionnaire to find out how people look after their hands and how often. Here are some example questions.

Warm oil

ll Do you have manicures? If so, how often.

Benefits: ll Improves circulation and encourages penetration of massage medium. ll Can ease some types of arthritis and rheumatism.

This is a treatment for anyone who suffers from dry cuticles or nails. The oil is warmed up and then the client places their fingers into the bowl and soaks them for five minutes. This is usually performed at the cuticle work stage of the manicure. After treatment is completed, the technician/practitioner continues with the rest of the manicure.

ll Do you apply cream to your hands and, if so, how often?

Benefits

ll Have you ever had nail enhancements?

ll Nourishes the nail, cuticle and surrounding skin. ll Makes the nail more supple with regular treatment. ll Helps with the ridges on nails.

Bran bath This treatment is used for hands that look dull, drab and grimy and is applied after the hand massage. The bran is mixed with warm water or olive oil if the hands are really dry. The mixture is then applied to the skin and gently rubbed in and left for 10 minutes. It is then removed with warm water and sponges. Benefits: ll Removes dirt and grime from the hands. ll Brightens the colour of the hands.

ll Do you have any complementary treatments l in a manicure?

ll What treatments do you do l at home on your hands? ll Does your technician/ practitioner offer you any complementary treatments l to your manicure? Try out your questionnaire on 20–30 people. Present your results in a chart or graph. Discuss these with your group. Functional Skills Links: English, ICT, Mathematics PLTS Links: IE, CT, EP, RL

ll Adds moisture to the skin.

Nail art enhancement There are many different forms of nail art. The technician/practitioner and client need to decide the type that is the best for enhancing the nails for the occasion they are needed for.

Adaptations of hand treatments A manicure has to be adapted to suit the client. When treating a male client you will need to make some adaptations: ll Use oil or talc for the massage instead of cream, as this slips better on the skin if the man has a lot of body hair.

Check it out

ll A male client does not usually require polish on the nails unless it is a clear one. The nails will just need buffing at the end of the treatment.

1. Name two complementary treatments to hand treatments.

ll When massaging a male client, the pressure of the massage needs to be firmer as the man usually has bigger bones and muscles than a woman. Other adaptations have to suit the client. This should be decided when the technician/practitioner has completed a full consultation and determined the client’s preferences and needs.

2. What are the benefits of a hot oil treatment? 3. How would you adapt a manicure for a male client? 239

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Key health and safety practices Introduction

Starting point Would you want to work in a salon that neglects the health and safety of its clients and staff?

Nail technicians/practitioners need to follow some key points of health and safety while carrying out hand and nail treatments. As professionals, they have a responsibility to work in a safe, hygienic environment at all times. There are various Acts that a workplace has to conform to in the hand care and nail art industry, and these are covered in this section.

Health and safety legislation Treatments of the hand and nails are covered by the following legislation: ll Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations ll Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Regulations ll Health and Safety at Work Act (1974) (see Unit 1 Safe and healthy working practices in hair and beauty on pages 13–14.) ll Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR). The legislation is designed to protect both employer and employees. An employer must provide: ll a safe and healthy workplace ll access to health and safety policy ll training for all staff in safety procedures ll safe equipment which is serviced regularly. Employees must: ll follow health and safety procedures ll always protect others and themselves ll look after all equipment properly and report any faults.

COSHH Regulations The employee should always follow all instructions and advice given for taking precautions when they are using any substances. Complying with the regulations involves: ll monitoring, controlling or preventing exposure to substances ll assessing the risks of all substances ll deciding what precautions are needed ll ensuring that staff are properly informed, trained and supervised. Products used in hand and nail treatments that are covered by COSHH include: ll Cuticle remover – this is caustic and can burn the skin. Avoid contact with the eyes and wear gloves to clean up any spillages; store in a cool dry place ll Aerosols/nail drying sprays – keep away from naked flame, do not inhale and do not allow cans to become hot ll Acetone products/thinners, surgical spirits – do not smoke when handling and avoid breathing in any vapours or fumes; store in a cool dry place in small quantities ll Sterilising agents and nail glue – handle with care and wear gloves when appropriate; store in a cool dry place. 240 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 240

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Personal protective equipment This must be supplied by the employer. When performing hand and nail treatments, the following PPE is required: ll apron if working with paraffin wax, oil or paints ll face mask/nail extractor fan when using artificial nail systems as the products are highly volatile, and the dust from them can cause skin allergies and breathing problems ll gloves to be worn when handling chemicals.

RIDDOR ll All incidents and occurrences should be documented in the business’s accident book. ll The employer and, if necessary, the local enforcing authority should be notified of all incidents.

A clean and safe work area You must keep your work area clean, tidy and free from germs. Store chemicals as directed in the manufacturer’s instructions

Sterilise all tools and keep them sterile at all times

Wash all work surfaces regularly with warm, soapy water

Keeping the work area clean and safe Ensure equipment wires do not trail on the floor

Place waste materials in a lined bin

Regularly maintain equipment

Sterilisation and cleaning of tools and equipment Sterilisation is destruction of all living micro-organisms and their spores. Sterilising methods depend on what the tools are made of. Equipment

Description

Sterlisation methods Autoclave

This sterilises all metal tools by high steam pressure (at 120°C) for 3–10 minutes. This is the most effective method

Chemical

Used to sterilise metal or plastic tools. Tools are immersed in chemicals, e.g. cidex, formaldehyde, for 15–20 minutes. Chemicals need to be replaced every 28 days

Glass bead steriliser

Used to sterilise small metal tools and needles. Takes 10 minutes to complete at 200–300°C

Cleaning methods

Over to you

A working environment If you were to carry out a survey of how the working area should be for a hand and nail treatment to be carried out correctly, you would observe many different procedures. ll Electrical equipment to be placed on a sturdy support. ll Technician/practitioner and client to be in a comfortable position. ll Adequate ventilation and lighting while working. ll Nail enamel remover and thinners can catch fire easily. ll Know the correct procedures when you have cut a client. ll Work area to be kept safe and hygienic at all times. ll Check electrical equipment before use, report any faulty equipment and remove it from service. What else would you add to the above list? Functional Skills Links: English PLTS Links: CT, EP

Jargon buster Volatile evaporating at normal room temperature and can be inhaled easily Immersed cover completely with liquid

Check it out

Ultraviolet (UV) cabinet

Tools are placed in the cabinet after they have been sterilised to keep them sterile until they are used.

1. Give two examples of health and safety legislation.

Antiseptics/ disinfectants

Used to clean and wipe equipment

2. What is sterilisation?

Cleansing

Removes surface dirt and grease

3. Name two methods of sanitisation. 241

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Presentation and conduct Introduction

Starting point What is required to maintain a l high standard of presentation l and conduct at work?

A nail technician/practitioner working in the hand care and nail art sector needs to be fully aware of what is required of them to support and maintain the workplace and their own personal standards. They need to understand that their working activities and responsibilities must comply with workplace rules. There are various codes or standards included in these rules and these are explained in this section.

Presentation

Personal appearance A technician/practitioner must look professional at all times when performing treatments for clients in the salon, as this helps the client to build confidence in them and the establishment. Here are some guidelines. ll Work wear – technicians/practitioners must wear professional work wear for all the practical treatments completed in the salon. This presents a professional image and maintains hygiene at all times. Clothes must not be too tight or short and should not restrict the technician/practitioner from carrying out any treatments or services. For some treatments, personal protective equipment (PPE) may also have to be worn to protect clothes, skin or breathing from being affected. ll Footwear – this should be flat or low-heeled and comfortable. Shoes should also be enclosed at the toes and heels, and be clean, smart and professional in appearance. ll Hands and nails – these should be kept soft and protected from harsh chemicals wherever possible. Nails should be kept short and free from polish for hygiene reasons. If the technician/practitioner wears nail enhancements, these should be short and French manicured only to give a natural look, except for nail art specialists. ll Hair – this should be clean, styled well and, for hygiene reasons, kept away from the face when working on a client. ll Make-up – should be worn at all times while at work. It should be well applied and natural looking. It can be an excellent advertisement if this service is also offered within the salon. ll Jewellery and accessories – a wedding band may be worn, but no other jewellery on hands or arms. Stud earrings are permitted but any other jewellery that is worn should not be visible.

Personal hygiene As technicians/practitioners work closely with their clients during treatments, it is essential to pay close attention to maintaining personal hygiene. ll Take a bath or a shower daily. This removes any stale body odours that may build up throughout the day. ll Deodorant or antiperspirant should be applied regularly throughout the day to prevent body odour. ll Strong smelling or highly spiced foods should be avoided at all times while at work as the client might find this unpleasant. ll Smoking and highly scented perfumes need to be avoided when in close contact with clients, as this can be off-putting. 242 M010_L2HB_SB_L1D_7557_FM.indd 242

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ll Hands should be washed regularly. The technician/practitioner should also wash them before, during and after treatments to help reduce the risk of cross-infection. ll Feet should be washed daily and taken care of with foot powder and moisturising creams, as the technician/practitioner is on their feet for long hours throughout the day.

Over to you It’s important to look professional at all times

A hygienic and safe working area When working, the technician/practitioner must present themselves in a manner that prevents any risk of accidents or injuries, and also to prevent any infection occurring while they work. Here are some guidelines. ll The work area must be cleaned before and after every client. ll All tools must be sterilised before use. ll All consumables and materials used should be clean. ll All ‘tops off’ products should be replaced immediately after use and made secure.

Conducting yourself professionally Look through textbooks, magazines or the internet for information on professional conduct. When you have researched this, in pairs make an A4 poster showing what rules you would expect staff to follow in the workplace. Use pictures and drawings to illustrate your poster and then discuss with your group.

ll All rubbish should be placed in a lined bin.

Functional Skills Links: English, ICT

ll Check all electrical equipment is working correctly before use.

PLTS Links: TW, CT

Conduct The technician/practitioner must behave professionally at all times in the workplace, as this is an important part of maintaining a safe working environment. Here are some guidelines for good practice. ll Walk, never rush or run, in the workplace. ll Don’t smoke in the workplace. ll Be polite to everyone at all times. ll Use appropriate language at all times (no swearing). ll Treat all colleagues, visitors and clients with respect. ll Conduct yourself at all times in a manner that does not place yourself or others at risk. ll Maintain confidentially at all times. ll Switch off your mobile phone or turn it to silent during working hours.

Check it out 1. How should a nail technician’s/practitioner’s hands and nails be for treatments? 2. Give three things a technician/ practitioner should check to make sure the work area is safe. 3. How should a technician/ practitioner treat everyone in the workplace? 243

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Review learning and progress It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/ practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes. They can help you by: ll directing you to some more resources such as books, websites and other specialists ll giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

In this unit you covered a range of information about hand care and nail art. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning. ✓✓ Red for stop and recap ✓✓ Amber for getting ready to move on ✓✓ Green for moving on What you covered

ll covering the lesson again on this particular subject – remember: if you ticked it, maybe others did too. It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Feel confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Hand care and nail art treatments Nail shapes and types Social and cultural influences Tools, products and equipment Client consultation and preparation for treatment Creation of nail art designs Enhancing and adapting techniques Key health and safety practices Presentation and conduct

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Plan-Do-Review learning cycle

Reflect on your learning

This process will form the ‘Review’ part of the learning cycle.

Step 1 – Review your learning

‘Review learning and progress’ involves all of the following. ll Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your hand care and nail art treatments. ll Dealing positively with the feedback received. ll Assessing your own knowledge and understanding in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal. ll Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement. ll Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in hand care and nail art. ll Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments. Remember: you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered. So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

What did I not understand or find difficult to do? Step 2 – Take action I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again. I will ask my tutor/teacher/ practitioner for help. Step 3 – Review again Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1? Am I more confident with the unit? Am I ready to move on?

Unit 10 questions Hand care and nail art treatments and their benefits 1. 2. 3. Nail shapes and types 1. 2. 3. Social and cultural influences 1.

Self-assessment questions

2.

Under each of the following headings try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not those of your tutor/teacher/practitioner or your friend, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences.

Tools, products and equipment

The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit. Here are some examples.

1.

1. Did I manage to master the skills to be able to carry out hand care and nail art treatments? 2. What could I improve on? 3. Where shall I look for help? To each of the questions you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straight away, you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

3. 1. 2. 3. Client consultation and preparation for treatment 2. 3. Creation of nail art designs 1. 2. 3. Enhancing and adapting techniques 1. 2. 3. Key health and safety practices 1. 2. 3. Presentation and conduct 1. 2. 3. 245

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Assessment tips The method of assessment for Unit 10 is Internal.

ll social and cultural influences

Your teacher/tutor/practitioner will set you an assessment brief that will explain what is expected of you and the evidence you must present for submission and marking. While it is important that you produce work that is your own, which shows your own views, knowledge and personality, you must make sure that you follow the assessment brief.

ll client consultation and preparation for treatment

Within the assessment you must demonstrate understanding of: ll hand care and nail art treatments and their benefits ll nail shapes and types

ll tools, products and equipment

ll creation of nail art designs ll enhancing and adapting techniques ll key health and safety practices ll presentation and conduct. Revisit your work and the knowledge and skills that you have covered. You should familiarise yourself with both the purpose and the learning outcomes for this unit at the outset, so that you are clear about what you will be trying to achieve and why.

You must show that you can:

Guidance:

To gain higher marks you must:

Know the key factors of hand care and nail services that have contributed to the rapid growth of the nail industry

You will need to identify the key factors which have contributed to the growth of the nail industry in the UK as well as be able to select the materials, tools, equipment and products appropriate for basic hand care and nail services using appropriate terminology

You will need to identify a wide range of key factors which have contributed to the growth of the nail industry in the UK as well as select materials, tools, equipment and products accurately using appropriate and relevant terminology

You will also need to identify the factors that may prevent and restrict hand care and nail services

You will also need to identify in detail the factors that may prevent and restrict hand care and nail services

Be able to develop a range of hand and nail art allowing for social and cultural influences

You will need to demonstrate hand and nail art considering social and cultural influences

You will need to demonstrate accurate and relevant consideration of social and cultural influences in applying hand and nail art

Be able to safely prepare and apply hand care and nail art services

You will need to prepare and apply hand care and nail services that enhance appearance and review your progress afterwards

You will need to prepare and apply hand care and nail services to enhance appearance and critically review your ongoing progress in meeting the intended outcomes

Throughout your hand and nail care treatment you will need to demonstrate safe and healthy working practices

Throughout your hand and nail care treatment you will need to demonstrate safe and healthy working practices

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UNIT 10 Exploring hand care and nail art

Top tip 1. Identify your strengths and weaknesses. 2. Work out a realistic timetable for your assessment completion. 3. Set aside time to research into business processes and systems in relation to the hair and beauty sector. 4. Set aside time to gather information for your assessment. 5. Work on your weaknesses so that they become strengths. 6. Seek support and guidance from your teacher/tutor/practitioner regularly. Although they cannot help you complete your assessment, they can help with: • managing your time • setting targets • feeding back on progress • answering general questions.

Ideas for projects l Nails – functional or fashionable? l The growth and status of celebrity l nail technicians/practitioners l How harmful are the chemicals l used in nail products?

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

Index acids and alkalis, pH testing..................................70–1

employees............................... 21, 46, 180, 206, 217

acronyms..................................................................88

biological inheritance..............................................176

acrylics, nail art............................................... 113, 236 add-on sales............................................................135

blending colour application, nail art...................................................................235

advertising methods................................42–3, 90, 134

blow-drying.............................................................210

African-Caribbean hair services ...................... 113, 114, 130, 164, 198–9, 216

blushers...................................................................185

aftercare advice . ............................................185, 237

body image and health, trends in............................................................38, 104

aims and objectives of business...............................146

body language.........................................................84

airbrushing, nail art......................................35, 236–7

bones ........................................................60–1, 62, 63

alcohol, avoiding.................................................18, 64

booking systems....................................... 149, 150, 154

allergies.............................................................24, 65

bran bath, hand treatment.....................................239

ambience...........................................................75, 155

brands.....................................................................124

anatomy and physiology

business focus...........................................................47

arms, hands, legs and feet..............................62–3

business processes and systems.....................36–7, 143

hair.................................................................56–7

assessment tips...............................................168–9

head, neck and shoulders.................................60–1

choosing a business system................................ 151

nails................................................................58–9

communication skills......................................158–9

skin.................................................................54–5

computerised vs. manual systems.......................148

animal testing..........................................................39

legislation......................................................144–5

anti-discrimination legislation..................................127

money handling.............................................156–7

antihistamines..........................................................65

pricing structures............................................162–3

appearance, personal.......... 20, 46, 180, 206, 216, 242

reception area................................................152–5

appointment booking systems..................................................... 149, 150, 154

review learning and progress..........................166–7

services and treatments..................................164–5

arms, anatomy of.....................................................62

teamwork........................................................160–1

arthritis...................................................................227

types and range of businesses........................146–7

artificial nails..........................................................225

used by large businesses..................................150–1

artistry.....................................................................212

used by small businesses....................................149

asthmatic.................................................................24

business size and structure........................................33

astringents...............................................................182

business types............................................ 32–3, 146–7

atmospheric moisture.............................................208

buying behaviour......................................................43

buying signals..........................................................137 bacteria, preventing spread of...................................18 barbering..................................................................32

camouflage, make-up..................................... 182, 184

history................................................................ 113

campaigns, advertising................................ 42–3, 90–1

iconic landmarks................................................ 114

career pathways.......................................................44

services and products.........................................130

caustic products.......................................................231

barometer................................................................54

celebrities, influence of............................ 105, 177, 202

beauty therapy.........................................................32

chain of manufacture...............................................37

history................................................................ 113

chemical processes..................................................201

iconic landmarks................................................ 114

chemically treated hair...........................................208

services.......................................... 66, 130, 164, 199

cleanliness

behaviour buying behaviour of customers...............................43

personal......................................21, 46, 215, 242–3

tools and work area....................... 18, 188, 214, 241

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INDEX

client-centred care...................................................158

cultural influences

client consultation.............. 94–5, 180–1, 206–7, 232–3

ethnicity and migration......................................102

client records..................................... 95, 149, 150, 232

on hair styles.................................................202–3

clinical testing of products....................................36–7

hand and nail art..............................................228

code of conduct, example of................................... 191

male customers..................................................103

codes of practice.....................................................122

on skin care and make-up..................................176

collaboration, teamwork......................................... 161

socio-economic class..........................................102

colour, science of..................................................74–5

youth culture......................................................103

colouring hair..........................................................213

culture, definition....................................................176

comedones..............................................................174

curling irons..................................................... 112, 205

comfort zone............................................................84

customer satisfaction................................................93

commission...............................................................42

customer service...................................................92–3

communication..........................................40–1, 81, 129

customers.................................................................40

barriers to........................................................88–9

cuticle

effectiveness of....................................................85

hair...................................................................208

reflecting on........................................................83

nails....................................................................59

responding to complaints....................................90

role of.............................................................82–3

dandruff-affected hair.............................................201

skills of client-centred.....................................158–9

Data Protection Act (1998)............................126–7, 144

types and methods................................. 84–7, 90–1

décor ......................................................................152

compensation..........................................................144

dehydration.............................................175, 224, 225

competitors.............................................................146

delivery of products..................................................37

complaints, handling..............................90, 128–9, 154

demarcation line.....................................................184

computerised booking systems................................150

demographics............................................ 38, 104, 105

computerised client records..................................... 151

demotivation............................................................89

computerised vs. manual systems............................148

density of hair.........................................................200

condition of hair......................................................201

depilation...........................................................57, 66

condition test............................................................72

depreciation............................................................163

conditioners............................................................208

dermatitis................................................................215

conditions, skin............................................24, 65, 175

dermis......................................................................55

conduct, personal......................................21, 46, 190–1

dexterity..................................................................210

confidentiality.....................................................39, 95

diagnosis..................................................................24

consultation with clients................................. 94–5, 180–1, 206–7, 232–3

diet, ensuring adequate............................................22

consumables...........................................................163 Consumer Protection Act (1987)....................... 126, 144

discrepancies in money transactions..................................................... 156, 157

consumption of resources.........................................39

discrimination....................................................38, 126

contra-indications...................................95, 180–1, 233

disinfecting tools............................................... 18, 188

contractual agreements...........................................129

disposable income..................................... 34, 104, 107

corporate image......................................................124

distance selling........................................................128

dilated blood capillaries..........................................174

COSHH regulations....................... 15, 25, 189, 215, 240

distribution of products.............................................37

cost of products and services...............................162–3

dressing techniques, hair.........................................213

counterfeit money........................................... 156, 157

drugs, avoiding..........................................................18

cross-infection...................................................18, 233 economic influences..............................34–5, 107, 228

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

economy/economic, definitions..........................34, 106

face, bones and muscles of.................................60, 61

editorials.................................................................134

face-to-face communication.....................................40

electrical equipment.........................................25, 205

facials................................................................66, 173

electrical treatments.................................. 69, 164, 172

fair trading...............................................................39

electrodes.................................................................69

fashion trends....................................................38, 104

email ..................................................................41, 42

faulty goods, return of.........................................128–9

emollients................................................................66

feedback from customers.........................................93

empathy, definition.................................................176

feet, anatomy of.......................................................63

employment

financial turnover.....................................................32

career pathways..................................................44

finger waving..........................................................210

and disposable income.................................34, 107

finishing techniques, hair...................................211–212

employability skills..........................................46–7

fire policies................................................................16

legislation......................................................144–5

first aid......................................................................16

Employment Protection Act (1990).......................144–5

first impressions..........................87, 92, 94–5, 155, 217

enamels, nail..........................................................229

flammable, definition................................................16

endorphins...............................................................22

flat stones application, nail art...............................234

energy conservation..................................................39

foiling application, nail art.....................................235

environmental factors

food and drink, work policies....................................19

affecting skin, hair and nails...........................64–5

forecasting, business.................................................36

in salon affecting communication.......................89

foundation, make-up....................................... 183, 184

environmental issues................................................39

fraudulent transactions...........................................157

epidermis..................................................................55

free edge, nails.......................................................227

epilation...................................................................57

French polish application, nail art...........................234

equal opportunities legislation................................127

fungal infection......................................................227

equipment......................................................34–5, 131

cleaning and sterilisation....................... 18, 214, 241

gels . .....................................................................35

electrical.....................................................25, 205

glands......................................................................54

for hair care and styling................................204–5

glitter application, nail art......................................235

iconic...............................................................34–5

greeting clients..............................................92–3, 154

modern developments........................................106

grooming.................................................................164

for nail art and hand care..............................230–1

guarantees..............................................................129

personal protective.............................. 189, 215, 241

skin care and make-up...................................178–9

hair

eras in history.......................................................... 112

condition of........................................................201

ergonomic, definition.................................................19

density and texture............................................200

ethical issues.................................................39, 122–3

growth cycle........................................................57

ethnicity...................................................................102

structure of......................................................56–7

exchange rates.......................................... 34, 106, 107

trends................................................................. 110

exercise, benefits of..................................................22

types of hair growth............................................57

exfoliants..................................................................67

hair and beauty sector...............................................31

exfoliating hands and arms....................................238

assessment tips.................................................50–1

eye contact...............................................................84

business processes...........................................36–7

eye make-up........................................................184–5

communication with customers........................40–1

economic influences........................................34–5

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INDEX

employability skills..........................................46–7

workplace policies/procedures.........................16–19

global nature of..............................................32–3

job roles and career pathways.........................44–5

Health and Safety at Work Act (1974)..................................... 13, 14, 188, 214

promoting and selling.....................................42–3

healthy lifestyle, benefits......................................22–3

review learning and progress...........................48–9

heat, effects of.........................................................68

social, ethical and environmental issues.......................................38–9

heating for salons......................................................17

hair care and styling................................................197

histamine reaction....................................................65

assessment tips...............................................220–1

history of hair and beauty........................................ 101

client consultation.........................................206–7

assessment tips...............................................118–19

creation of hair styles and services....................208–11

cultural influences..........................................102–3

enhancing and adapting styles.........................212–13

economic influences...........................................107

equipment, materials and tools........................204–5

historical/iconic developments........................108–9

highlighters.............................................................186

health and safety practices............................214–15

iconic landmarks................................................ 114

presentation and conduct..............................216–17

key developments...........................................112–13

review learning and progress.........................218–19

modern influences.............................................. 115

services and techniques..................................198–9

social influences.............................................104–5

social and cultural differences.......................202–3

technical influences........................................106–7

types of hair...................................................200–1

trends and developments............................... 110–11

see also hair; hairdressing

hospitality................................................................152

‘hair-up’ looks.........................................................213

hue, colour...............................................................75

hairdressing..............................................................32

humid, definition......................................................69

iconic landmarks................................................ 114

hydraulic mechanisms.............................................178

key developments in........................................... 112

hydrogen bonds......................................................205

services................................................. 66, 130, 164

hygiene, personal.............................21, 46, 215, 242–3

see also hair care and styling

hypothalamus..........................................................54

hands ......................................................................62 anatomy of.........................................................62

iconic .................................................... 106, 108–9, 114

treatments.....................................................238–9

induction, training.....................................................91

washing...............................................................18

industries in hair and beauty sector..........................32

see also nail art and hand care

links and interdependencies................................33

hang nail................................................................227

related industries.................................................45

hard water testing.....................................................71

innovative................................................................155

hazard/hazardous, definitions...................... 19, 24, 188

insulators..................................................................54

hazardous substances, risk assessment.....................25

integrated business systems..................................... 151

head, bones and muscles of..................................60–1 health and safety......................................................13

interdependency between industries............................................................32, 33

assessment tips................................................28–9

internet................................................................41, 42

legislation............................................14–15, 240–1

interpersonal skills....................................................87

local council registrations.....................................15

iridescent.................................................................109

occupational hazards..........................................24

personal hygiene..................................................21

job roles...................................................................44

posters and leaflets..............................................91

joint mobility..........................................................225

review learning and progress...........................26–7

risk assessment....................................................25

keratin/keratinisation..........................................55, 59

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

labelling of products...............................................128

melanin....................................................................57

landmarks in development................................ 112, 114

micro-dermabrasion equipment................................34

language barriers.....................................................88

migration.................................................................102

lanugo hair..............................................................57

milia . ....................................................................174

legislation........................... 14–15, 126–9, 144–5, 240–1

minerals...................................................................69

legs, anatomy of......................................................63

miscommunication...................................................88

lifestyle choices.....................................................22–3

mission statements.......................................... 146, 147

light/lighting, effect of.........................................17, 75

mitosis......................................................................59

line management structure.......................................87

money handling..................................................156–7

lip make-up.............................................................185

mood, impact of light and colour on........................75

listening skills...........................................................86

mousses....................................................................35

local council registrations..........................................15

multicultural............................................ 102, 165, 176

loyalty, definition.....................................................124

muscle tone............................................................225

loyalty schemes............................................... 129, 136

muscles.........................................................61, 62, 63

lunula, nails.............................................................59

musculo-skeletal disorders, prevention......................19

lymph flow.............................................................225 nail art and hand care............................................223 mail merge..............................................................148

adaptations for male clients.................................239

mail shots.................................................................42

assessment tips.................................................246–7

make-up..................................................................173

client consultation............................................232–3

adapting............................................................186

contra-indications.................................................233

application of..........................................183, 184–5

creation of nail art designs...............................234–7

historical trends.............................................. 110–11

enamels, choosing................................................229

male clients.............................................................103

enhancing techniques.......................................238–9

hand treatments................................................239

health and safety practices................................240–1

skin care treatments.......................................186–7

preparation of area/client.....................................233 presentation and conduct.................................242–3

manicure............................................................224–5 manual systems of business.....................................148

products for........................................................231

manufacturer’s instructions.......................................19

shapes and types of nail................................226–7

manufacturing chain................................................37

social and cultural differences...........................229

manufacturing developments...................................35

tools and equipment......................................230–1

marbling application, nail art.................................235

treatments.....................................................224–5

market research........................................................36

nails

marketing opportunities..........................................135

growth of............................................................59

massage medium...................................................238

historical trends............................................. 111, 113

massage trends........................................................ 111

parts of...............................................................58

matrix, nails..............................................................59

services for........................................... 66, 130, 165

media

shapes and types...........................................226–7

for advertising.....................................................42

neck, bones and muscles of...................................60–1

and celebrity culture........................... 105, 177, 202

noise, external..........................................................83

of communication............................................40–1

non-verbal communication...................................84–5

influencing fashion trends..................... 38, 115, 176

nutrients/nutrition.....................................................22

nail art..............................................................237

meeting and greeting clients....................................93

occasions for hair and nail services.................202, 229

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INDEX

occupational hazards...........................................24–5

safe use of..........................................................215

opalescent blending, nail art..................................235

sales to businesses...........................................32–3

organisational structure............................................89

for skin care.......................................................172

professionalism.................................................. 191

papilla, hair..............................................................57

recommendation..........................................43, 135

papules (closed spots).............................................174

standards and attitudes.......................................47

parabens, chemical............................................66, 67

profit . ..............................................................36, 163

paraffin wax, hand care.........................................239

promotion and selling..............................42–3, 90, 121

paramedical treatments....................................38, 172

assessment tips................................................140–1

payment methods................................................156–7

distance selling...................................................128

perming hair............................................................213

ethics and good practice................................122–3

personal conduct.................................................21, 46

legislation......................................................126–7

personal data, law protecting.............................126–7

policies and procedures..................................128–9

personal presentation...................................20, 46, 87

promotional incentives.......................................136

personal protective equipment................. 189, 215, 241

promotional literature........................................146

personal standards...................................................46

promotional techniques and strategies.................................................134–7

personality conflicts..................................................89 pH testing..............................................................70–1

review learning and progress..........................138–9

physical trauma.......................................................201

role of ...........................................................124–5

pin curling...........................................................210–11

psycho-motor skills...................................................70

plantar flexes............................................................63

publications...............................................................41

policies and procedures...............16–19, 122, 126, 128–9

pustules (pus-filled spots)........................................174

ponytails..................................................................213 population........................................................38, 104

qualifications............................................................45

porosity test..............................................................72 portable appliance testing (PAT)...............................25

race . ....................................................................176

posture................................................................19, 84

reception area.........................................................153

powder, make-up....................................................184

maintaining and organising............................154–5

presentation, personal............................20–1, 216, 242

role of reception.................................................152

pricing structures.................................................162–3

record cards......................................................95, 232

primary colours.........................................................74

recycling...................................................................39

primate, definition....................................................59

registration with local council....................................15

product displays...........................................132–3, 135

regulations.......................... 14–15, 126–9, 144–5, 240–1

products.......................................................... 130, 165

repetitive strain injury (RSI).........................................19

resources..................................................................39

advertising......................................................132–3 costs of...............................................................162

environmental issues...........................................39

development...................................................36–7

maintaining and storing.....................................155

effects on skin, hair and nails........................67, 68

restructurants...........................................................67

hair styling....................................................208–9

retail price................................................................36

iconic...............................................................34–5

retailing.......................................................36, 42, 124

ingredients used in..............................................67

retinol.......................................................................34

labelling of.........................................................128

revenue.............................................................34, 124

manufacturing chain...........................................37

rheumatism............................................................227

modern developments....................................106–7

RIDDOR...................................................................241 risk assessment............................................ 16, 25, 188

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

risk, definition....................................................24, 188

social and cultural factors..................................176

treatments........................................... 172, 173, 186

Sale of Goods Act (1994)................................. 129, 144

types of skin.......................................................174

sallow skin colour...........................................174, 229

skull, bones of..........................................................60

salon image.............................................................216

sleep patterns...........................................................23

sanitisation..............................................................241

smoking, work policies..............................................18

science of hair and beauty........................................53

social factors............................................................38

anatomy and physiology...............................54–63

body image and health......................................104

assessment tips................................................78–9

demography.......................................................104

effect of electricity...............................................69

fashion trends............................................ 104, 177

effects of heat and water....................................68

influencing hair styles........................................202

effects of products...............................................68

media and celebrities......................... 105, 177, 202

light and colour principles...............................74–5

and nail treatments.......................................228–9

review of learning and progress......................76–7

skin care and make-up.......................................176

skin, hair and nail health.................................64–5

soft water testing......................................................71

testing procedures...........................................70–3

software..................................................................150

sebaceous glands....................................................174

solvents...................................................................231

sebaceous glands, skin.............................................55

spa therapy.............................. 32, 66, 111, 112, 130, 165

sebum, skin...............................................55, 174, 208

speaking skills..........................................................86

secondary colours.....................................................74

SPF (sun protection factor).......................................172

secondary infection.................................................233

spots........................................................................174

selling see promotion and selling

spray tanning...........................................................35

sensitivity tests..........................................................73

standards

services...................................................66, 130, 164–5

codes of practice............................................122–3

setting hair..........................................................210–11

personal.....................................................20–1, 46

sexual orientation....................................................126

professional.........................................................47

shaders............................................................ 185, 186

static electricity.......................................................208

shampoo................................................................208 shoulders, bones and muscles of...........................60–1

sterilisation of tools and equipment.................................... 18, 188, 214, 241

size of business.........................................................33

stock control............................................................155

skin care and make-up............................................ 171

straightening irons..................................... 35, 112, 205

adaptations and enhancements.....................186–7

strand test................................................................72

aftercare advice..................................................185

stress and anxiety.....................................................23

anatomy and physiology.................................54–5

structure of business.................................................33

application of.................................................182–5

subcutaneous layer, skin...........................................55

client consultation..............................................180

substance abuse........................................................18

conditions and causes........................................175

sudoriferous (sweat) glands......................................55

contra-indications............................................180–1

sunscreen.................................................................64

equipment......................................................178–9

suppliers...................................................................40

health of skin..................................................64–5

supply of products....................................................37

make-up..................................................173, 183–5

sustainability......................................................34, 39

media, fashion and celebrities............................177

suture . ......................................................................61

products.............................................. 172, 179, 182

sweat glands............................................................55

protection from environment...........................64–5

symbols, health and safety........................................19

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INDEX

T-zone.....................................................................174

testing for hard and soft..........................................71

tactile tests...........................................................72–3

workplace policies...................................................17

tanning, spray..........................................................35

wholesale price........................................................36

target market.....................................................36, 42

wholesaler..............................................................163

team dynamics........................................................ 161

work-life balance.....................................................23

teamwork.............................................................160–1

working together..................................................160–1

technical terms.........................................................95

workplace policies and procedures.......................16–19

technological changes.........................................106–7

writing skills.............................................................87

telephone communication...................... 41, 91, 149, 151 temperature regulation............................................54 tendon......................................................................62 terminal hair.............................................................57 terminology..............................................................95 tertiary colours.........................................................74 testing

of new products..............................................36–7

procedures for.................................................70–3

text messaging, advertising.......................................42 texture of hair.........................................................200 texturising................................................................198 thermal mittens......................................................238 thermoreceptor.........................................................54 tools see equipment toupée.....................................................................198 trachea.....................................................................64 Trades Description Act (1968).................... 126, 144, 155 training pathways.....................................................45 transfer application, nail art...................................235 unit cost..................................................................163 vellus hair.................................................................57 ventilation......................................................... 17, 241 verbal communication..............................................84 verification of cheques.............................................157 video conferencing....................................................91 visual merchandising................................................75 volatile products......................................................241 warm oil, hand treatment......................................239 warranties...............................................................129 waste disposal.....................................................18, 39 water effects of................................................................68

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VTCT LEVEL 2 HIGHER DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES

About VTCT VTCT (Vocational Training Charitable Trust) is the hair and beauty sector’s own awarding body. It is a Government-approved awarding body offering National Vocational Qualifications (NVQs), Scottish Vocational Qualifications (SVQs) and other vocationally related qualifications (VRQs). VTCT has been developing and certificating vocational qualifications for over 40 years and has 125,000 registrations for qualifications annually. It is the UK’s leading awarding body for hair and beauty qualifications.

The authors and publisher would like to thank the following individuals and organisations for permission to reproduce photographs: p12, Lorraine Kourafas/Shutterstock; p15, Pearson Education Ltd.; p18, 46, 92, 94, 103 and 238, Pearson Education Ltd./Gareth Boden; p30, Sonja Pacho/Corbis; p35, Image Source/Getty Images; p38, Matt Baron/BEI/Rex Features; p43 and 128, Dermalogica; p52, Robert Daly/ Getty Images; p69, istockphotos.com; p80, Iconica/Getty Images; p100, Dezo Hoffmann/Rex Features; p105, Peter Widmann/Alamy; p106, ImageSource/Superstock; p108, TopFoto/ArenaPal; p110, Chris Moore/Getty Images; p113, image100/Alamy; p113, Blend Images/ Alamy; p115, Bob Thomas/Getty Images; p115, Getty Images; p120, Gary Wade/Getty Images; p133, Pearson Education Ltd./Jules Selmes; p142, JUPITERIMAGES/ BananaStock/Alamy; p150, Somos/Veer/Getty Images; p165, Emmanuel LATTES/Alamy; p170, Image Source/Corbis; p174, Anna Peisl/Corbis; p177, Mangiarotti Claudio/Rex Features; p183, Valua Vitaly/Shuttershock; p184, Image Source Black/Alamy; p189, Alamy; p190, Inline London; p196, Thinkstock/Getty Images; p203, Luz Martin/Alamy; p204, Cynthia Pringle/Corbis; p209, altrendo images/ Getty Images; p210, DAJ/Getty Images; p213, WestEnd61/Rex Features; p214, Emma Whyte; p216, Spyros Bourboulis/Getty Images; p222, Terry Vine/Getty Images; p224, Adam Gault/Getty Images; p228, Jon Arnold Images Ltd./Alamy; p234, Leah Warkentin/Design Pics Inc./Rex Features; p237, AFP/Getty Images; p243, Masterfile (Royalty-Free Div.).

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