Rebecca Wilson Lectra Manual Final major project
Outfit 1 - Garment 1 Jacket
The starting point for this jacket was the basic jacket block
Using the marry function to lay the front and back together to work out how low to drop the arm hole. Making sure the arm hole and sleeve head were dropped and extended by the same amount.
3D Avatar allows me to see 360% around garment
After seeing the garment in 3D I realised that the arm holes needed to be dropped even more. By putting print on this would allow me to see where the original pattern lines were compared with my new shape.
Changing mechanical properties to a fabric more like the one that would be used for this garment eg.light weigh wool, allows you to see how the fabric would drape in real life.
Changing the position of the model allows me to see how the garment fits in different areas.
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: coat
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: Oversized Jacket
neckline exposed pocket bag with bound edge oversized pocket with button fastening
button detail on working vent
Details, fabric swatches
Outfit 1 - Garment 2
Top
The loose fit t-shirt was the starting point for this pattern as I feel for the jersey body would suit this style more that the shirt
Desk of stiches using pre-positioning to place the pieces on the body but 3d got a bit muddled up with the collar, cuffs and button stand therefore I re-prepositioned it in 2 stages, the main body and then the details (cuffs collar and buttonstand)
The t-shirt has been designed so the body is made out of jersey and the details are made out of cotton. Therefore, I have changed the corresponding pattern pieces to type 2 and made type one jersey and type 2 cotton to give the actual drape and look of the shirt.
cotton layplan collar cufffacin
12
cuff
12
12
gaunlet gaunlet
12
collar
shirt49
12
shirt49
12
shirt49
12
buttonpl shirt49
12
buttonpl
12 12
cuff
12
12
12
cufffacin
12
cuff
12
cuff
12
sleeve
12
Jersey layplan
cotton__0,385 m__1,480 m__83,07 %__17/04/18
sleeve
12
front
12
back
12
jersey__1,384 m__1,480 m__67,31 %__17/04/18
collar
12
12
cuff
12
cufffacin
1,480 m width
int__0,330 1,384 m__0,980 m__30,58 %__17/04/18 m length 1,480 m width
83,07 % efficiency 67,31 % efficiency
buttonpl
0,385 m length
12
interfacing layplan
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M Desciption: jersey mix top
Details, fabric swatches relaxed t-shirt
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: Top
Season: Autum/Winter
Outfit 1 - Garment 3 Trousers
Using stretch to dropping the crotch but also widening the leg so there is room to walk and move in the trousers.
Using the ease function to check tightness of the garment. As the trousers are blue and not red this means they a fit loosely.
Using marry function to check the pockets and fly fit together perfectly and I have all the pieces. I have also patterned two different options so when I mock up the trousers I can make both versions and see whichworks better.
final pattern
32 32
bar er er bar
waistnand
pocketbg 32
pocketbag
fntleft 32
fntlft 32
waistnand
trous e r2
er2 trous 32
buttoncov 32
32
waistbndr
32
back
32
32
back
pocketbg
waistbndr
32 pocketbag 32
32
32
zipbarer 32
zipbarer
32
ptchpockt
32
baggylayplan__1,847 m__1,480 m__74,00 %__18/04/18 32
32
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: trousers
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: patched drop crotch trousers
5cm waistat front
trouser extender detail
Hand sewn patches on knees using a running stich
Details, fabric swatches relaxed trousers with embellished patched on knees. running hand stich round each of the patches and through the middle of the patches. roll up hems with a tape on the seams 15 cm up to look like a fake selvedge. inside of waistband in contrast denim fabric with bound bottom detail.
Outfit 2 - Garment 1 SHIRT
creating a pattern from a collage (on the left) first thought was that the basic shape would be a raglan.
After seeing the pattern in 3D I decided this was not the look I wanted to go for. Therefore, I looked at how an original chemise was constructed using square panels and gathering them together to give shaping (left).
After measuring the mannequin to work out how to big the rectangles should be. I used the rectangle function to draw the shapes and married the basic bodice block to get an idea for shape of neckline and proportion
Adding detail to the neckline to give the look of the raglan.
first toile.
checking that the pattern work, the meaurments are correct and the notches match.
After buying 2 bundles of 3M of linen for this top in Paris I was restricted with fabric, using marker maker I realised my pattern pieces were slightly too big for the fabric. Luckily both of the front pieces are gathered so I was able to just reduce the width by a little bit. Also rather than grown on button stands I have patterned separate ones.
problem solved. using Diamino has allowed me to be as efficient with the fabric as posible the efficiency of this pattern is 86.19% that’s not bad compared to how big the pieces are.
slveplq 12 slveplq
slveudrpl
12
12
fntleft
12
frontrigh
neckwrap 12
fntyoker 12
12
12
buttonsta 12
12
bkyokelfntyokel cuff fntyoker 12
sleeve 12
fntyokel 12
back
12
86,19 % efficiency
1,480 m width
5,005 m length
sleeve 12
12
slveudrpl bktab
12
bkyokel cuff
12
bkyoker
12
bkyoker 12
12
12
chemlp__5,005 m__1,480 m__86,19 % __18/04/18
Outfit 2 - Garment 2 Skirt
Forgot to pin to keep in place
The skirt block has been used as the starting point for this garment. As the garment is designed to be oversized the shrinkage function was used to increased the size by 25%.
Concealed button stand down each side
skirt10
12
understan
12
understan
12
understan
12
understan
12
skirt9
12
cottonskirt__0,553 m__1,480 m__48,92 %__18/04/18
outtersta
12
outtersta
12
back2
12
front2
12
velvetskirt__1,093 m__1,480 m__82,25 %__18/04/18
0,553 m length
1,480 m width
48,92 % efficiency
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: skirt
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: oversized skirt
front
Details, fabric swatches heavy green top stiching on button stands facing is bound in the same cotton fabric concealed button stand
back
Outfit 3 - Garment 1 Jacket
Developing my design from pre collection has lead me to design this garment for a man not a women and after revisiting the garment on a model I have realised that the pattern does not fit correctly. Therefore, I have decided to start from scratch using the man’s jacket block.
after mocking up the basic shape in calico the fit it slightly to tight therefore using cut and reshape. The pattern has been split down the centre and 1cm has been added all the way through for a better fit.
Much better fit across the shoulder
When creating my facing and linings I have used semi-circular and reshape to create a nice smooth curve. then using cut tocreate teh pieces.
Development of the top jacket back panel as I have added 1cm in to the front pieces the same needs to be done in the back.
When patterning the details on the sleeve the semi-circular tool has been used. I have designed straight on to the under sleeve to give a good idea of proportions like a draft. Then using cut and join functions the pattern pieces have been created. Marry has also been used to check all the pieces have been patterned and fit together.
When checking the collar was correct length measure was used to measure the front neck and back neck and make sure it corresponded with the notches on the collar. once the patterns have been created and checked the seam allowence has been added.
when putting the double jacket in to 3D the jacket and waistcoat have been sewn separately in desk of stiches. then the waistcoat has been prepositioned and assembled first. Turning the coloured pattern pieces allows me to clearly identify each pattern piece.
Next, the outer shell jacket it is prepositioned on top making sure none of the pieces were caught on the under layer and assembled. The main body has worked well but I forgot to sew the sleeves on to the body so they are not sewn together.
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:
M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: Jacket
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: Double jacket Front
Back
Details, fabric swatches velvet waistcoat sections wool outer jacket with cotton linning fake button down collar waistcoat is real opening button down vent detail on back of top jacket
wool layplan
cufffacin 12
topfnt 12
topfnt 12
undrsleev 12
undrsleev 12
12
topcolla
topsleeve 12
topcolla 12
bktop 12
12
bktop
cufffacin 12
topsleeve 12
74,47 % efficiency
1,480 m width
1,819 m length
fntfacing 12
fntfacing 12
wool__1,819 m__1,480 m__74,47 %__19/04/18
velvet layplan
waistcoat
12
waistcoat2
12
waistcoat2
12
waistcoat
12
insidebac
12
velvet__0,744 m__1,480 m__63,15 %__19/04/18 cotton lining layplan
wclining
12
topslvlin
12
topslvlin
12
wclining
12
liningbk
12
liningbk
12
0,744 m length
1,480 m width
63,15 % efficiency
fntlinnin
12
undrlinni
12
undrlinni
12
fntlinnin
12
cotton__1,098 m__1,480 m__72,25 %__19/04/18
Outfit 3 - Garment 2 Apron Trousers
using the basic drop crotch pattern from the trousers in outfit 1 as the starting pattern for these trousers. then the apron was draped on then stand and digitized in to modaris.
Above I have married the pieces to check the apron fits in to the waistband at the back and the front will reach to the button to hook on. Below I have patterned the pockets and married them to the apron to check the proportion and how they overlapped.
Using the reshape function I straightened the edges and curves and put the pattern on to the avatar to check the apron drape. Having to use the pin tool to keep it in place.
32
beltloops
waistband
32 beltloops
32
32
strap
32
69,33 % efficiency
waistband
32
32
toppktbg bacpocket
32 denim__1,494 m__1,480 m__69,33 %__18/04/18
fnt
ba rer
flyguard
32
32
32
strap
32
back
1,480 m width
32
32
32
toppktbg 32
pocketbag 32
flyfcing
32
1,494 m length
rer ba
32
fnt
cotton linning layplan
Denim layplan 32 bkpok2 32 apron 32 pocketbkb 32 fntpkttop 32
32
fntpktbtt 32 bkpkt 32 sidepkt
pkt
denim2__1,614 m__1,480 m__63,80 %__18/04/18
striped denim and pockets layplan
cotton__0,284 m__1,480 m__46,61 %__18/04/18
pocketbag back
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: Trousers
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: Apron Trousers apron hooks up with D-rings
Front
Back
Details, fabric swatches apron trousers are sewn with brown topsew with 3cm deep faced hem front of apron strap attaches on to extender from back pocket. pockets are sand blasted and damaged before being top sewn and embelished on.
Outfit 4 - Garment 1 Apron Trousers
starting point for this dress was a drape of two apron
From here I have digitised the patterns in and extended the CB seam so it meets and a zip can be inserted, cut the pattern in to panels to allow for the pocket in the front, which can be seen to the right.
Toile of apron
12 toppocket 12 topfnt
underlft
12
0,980 m width
leather__0,243 m__0,980 m__36,65 %__18/04/18
topfnt
12
0,243 m length
Heavy Linen layplan
Leather layplan topside
12
undrright
12
36,65 % efficiency
heavylien__1,417 m__1,480 m__63,82 %__18/04/18
Light Linen layplan
apronpkt2
12 1,480 m width
lightlien__0,529 m__0,980 m__40,33 %__18/04/18
seconfpoc
12
apronpock
12 1,417 m length
63,82 % efficiency
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: dress
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: Apron Dress
Details, fabric swatches apron has leather trims (side pocket, top section and belt loop) all seams are bound and top sewn down. clasps clips to hook on to eyelets
Outfit 4 - Garment 2 Apron jumpsuit/ shirt
The jumpsuit block is the starting point for this garment. Using stretch function, I have extended the neck line and the back panel to create a gathered detail. After putting this basic shape in 3d I realised that the body was too short and needed lengthening but the rest of the fit looked good. This garment then got replaced with a shirt dress
The pattern for this shirt has been reused and adapted from a top in outfit 1, as I have already made the shirt up I know it fits together but I originally make the shirt for a man and this time it is for a women therefore I have extended and altered the pattern and put the basic shape in to 3d to get a feel for the fit and length.
yoke
12
12 12
12
cuff
gaunlet
collar
12
cuff
12
cuff
12
collar
12
cuff
12
cufffacin
12
cufffacin
12
sleeve
buttonpl
gaunlet
longjersy__1,680 m__1,480 m__75,89 %__18/04/18
12
sleeve
12
1,480 m width
fntlong
12
backL
12
0,408 m length
83,00 % efficiency
buttonpl
12
yoke
12
yoke
12
yoke
12 12
cotton__0,408 m__1,480 m__83,00 %__18/04/18
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: shirt
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: long shirt
Details, fabric swatches relaxed shirt jersy fabric for frotn back and sleeves
Outfit 5 - Garment 1 jumper
digitising the jumper pattern in to modaris as it gives teh large oversized look I want my jumper to have. then tweeking the pattern to match my deisgn.
putting an outfit in to 3D.
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:
M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: jumper
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: Patched jumper front
back
Details, fabric swatches jumper patched together using other knits hand woven or blanket stiched seams.
Outfit 5 - Garment shirt trousers
looking at the shape of a shirt and trying to work out what the pattern would look like as trousers.
from the shirt patten I have stretched and reshaped the front of the shirt to create this trouser shape.
patterning the details such as, a square cuff, the sleeve (from measurements from an existing shirt) and adding seam allowance for a run and fell seam along the side seams.
After putting the final garment in to 3D I have had some difficulty deciding what fabric to use where therefor I have scanned in my final fabric and placed them of different panels to see which is more pleasing to the eye.
cuff
cuff
sleeve
frontle
shi rt
tr o u ser 23
sleeve
waistband
shi rt t r o u ser 23
fontright
insidegauntlet
back
waistband
cuff
shirt trouser214
cuff
47,40 % efficiency
1,480 m width
0,755 m length
insidegauntlet
shirt trouser214
left__0,755 m__1,480 m__47,40 %__19/04/18
right__1,010 m__1,480 m__69,69 %__19/04/18
Specification sheet Name: Rebecca Wilson Size:M
project title: FMP
Date: April 2018
type of garment: Trousers
Season: Autum/Winter
Desciption: shirt trousers
Details, fabric swatches
contrast fabric on inside leg plaquet each leg is in a different fabric 2 buttons on cufff and one one gauntlet button up front
Line Plan