Exploring Cork’s food scene Pit stop

Travel writer Clodagh Dooley shares some amazing cafés, food trucks, restaurants and pubs in the rest of the west

 JM Reidy’s, Killarney

James Kavanagh, social media personality, TV presenter and co-author of The Currabinny Cookbook, shares his top foodie choices in Cork

Cork continues to be a great place to eat. From stand-out restaurants to food experiences to one of the best food markets in Europe, Cork has it all. Indeed, Cork has become the food capital of Ireland. That title has been solidified by West Cork being named the winner of Ireland’s Top 10 Foodie Destinations for 2017 by the Restaurants Association of Ireland (RAI). And it was even listed along with the likes of New York’s East Village and Marseille, France on the list of worthy foodie destinations by Eater.com’s Places to Eat in 2020.

“There is an incredible appreciation and celebration for food in Cork,” says James Kavanagh. “It can also be a great melting pot of food cultures; fusing Cork produce with global cuisine.”

James knows what good food is. He and his partner William Murray started the food company Currabinny, named after William’s hometown in Co Cork, which led to their successful cookbook The Currabinny Cookbook.

James says most of the inspiration for their cookbook came from their time in Ballymaloe Cookery School and from wandering around the many glorious farmer’s markets and meeting local suppliers.

“We get down to Currabinny as often as we can,” says James. “Currabinny, to me, is like the Shire in Lord of the Rings. It’s so peaceful and relaxing. Whenever we get down, Currabinny is the base, but we travel to Kinsale, Ballycotton, Clonakilty, Leap, Sherkin Island, and Baltimore. I’d happily spend days driving and eating my way around Cork.”

James says there are so many great places to eat around Cork, including some of the famous food trucks scattered around the county. The food truck has become increasingly popular, especially over the last year spent in lockdown, as it allows local chefs to create authentic dishes from a mobile kitchen.

“There are some amazing food trucks around Cork such as The Ramblin’ Sole which serves lovely, locally-caught fish and potatoes. And Street Taco at the Midleton Farmers Market is also incredible.”

For those looking for small local coffee shops and restaurants in Cork, James says you are spoilt for choice, but SOMA on Tuckey Street is always his first port of call when in Cork. “Perfect coffee and delicious, sweet treats.”

He is also excited to eat at Ichigo Ichie again, “we had a stunning nine-course Japanese tasting menu there a few years ago that we still gush about!”

West coast cuisine

But according to James, it’s not just Cork that has mouth-watering food. From traditional pubs to fresh seafood, the west coast of Ireland has everything any foodie could ever want. As James says, “Butter is at the heart of most delicious dishes, and the west is famous for its grass-fed, beautiful butter.”

One of James’ favourite staycation memories in the west involves food –James’ epic picnic right on the edge of the Cliffs of Moher.

James says, “I remember we had the most ridiculously dramatic picnic on the edge of the Cliffs of Moher organised by Grá Picnics. A candelabra, a table with a tablecloth, napkins, real cutlery, champagne – it was a small feast of food.

I had never seen the Cliffs before, so it was a total sensory overload between the picnic and the outstanding backdrop. I nearly cried because it was so beautiful!”

James, an ambassador for the all-electric Volkswagen ID.3, says he has so many places to visit now that lockdown is ending. So where is the first place he wants to travel in the west in his ID.3?

“I’m dying to see all of Dingle in Kerry. We went last summer for the first time, but most things were closed. I’d love to experience it during the Other Voices music TV show, which is based in Dingle.”

James adds, “I definitely want to visit Enya’s birthplace: magical Donegal. I’m dying for a long, leisurely drive around there. I’m a very happy driver – I absolutely love being in my car and exploring new places, so road trips are definitely something I can’t wait to restart.

“Being restricted to Ireland has really opened my eyes further to how gorgeous this country is and all the hidden gems it has to offer.”

James is launching The Currabinny Caravan in August which will be serving seasonal hotpots, salads, sandwiches, treats and beverages. Check out currabinny.ie for updates

Top 10 foodie spots in Cork

James shares his recommendations for the best places for food around Cork:

1 Emye Vegetarian Food at the Mahon Point Market – “I always grab a large tasting box of this Ethiopian food from here on a Thursday.”

2 Ballymaloe House – “This is always a delicious experience and never fails to satisfy.”

3 Connelly’s of Leap – “The pizza served here is outstanding!”

4 Café Paradiso –“Visit if you want the best vegetable-based dishes.”

5 Farmgate Café at the English Market –“The top spot for a soup and sandwich.”

6 Toons Bridge Dairy in Macroom – “This is like a little Aladdin’s cave of deliciousness!”

7 Crawford Art Gallery Café – “It always has a great, seasonal lunch spread.”

8 Douglas Farmer’s Market – “Such a nice treat on a Saturday - I always go for a Woodside Farm bacon bap.”

9 Cronin’s Pub in Crosshaven – “For mussels and a glass of white wine.”

10 The Seven Heads – “This food truck makes great pizza and also serves delicious fermented sourdough pizza.”

Killarney in Co Kerry is one of my favourite destinations in Ireland and I’m excited to head back there in July. And no stay in Killarney is complete without a visit to JM Reidy’s. Built in the 1870s, JM Reidy’s was a hardware store, agricultural supply store, grocers, bakery and flour merchant. Today, the pub/restaurant serves up delicious food and drinks, from coffee to beer to cocktails, and has a charm that will take you back in time, with memorabilia, their Sweetshop Pub, and old-style shop fronts within the outdoor seating area. I love this pub and can’t wait to visit again this summer. Outdoor dining can be booked in advance and keep an eye on their Instagram (@j.m_ reidys) for updates when indoor dining resumes.

To book, visit jm-reidy.tablepath.com/ reservations

 Bean and Gone, Ballybunion

I was in the coastal town of Ballybunion, Co Kerry for a day trip recently. After a stroll along the glorious beach, we decided to finish off the day with a takeaway coffee. Particularly as I had heard good things about a local coffee shop that had just opened its doors, called Bean and Gone, run by Clíona Doyle.

As well as having a brilliant name, the barista coffee was divine – although I had a tough choice choosing from either a coffee, milkshake, iced latte, or a smoothie! Bean and Gone also stocks some delicious fresh baked goods from BAKED! by SG, if you’re feeling peckish after swimming or walking along the beach.

To get to Bean and Gone, I’d recommend parking the car in the car park by the beach, then walking along Main Street, and you’ll find Bean & Gone near the statue of President Clinton.

Follow Bean & Gone on Instagram: @beanandgone_ballybunion

 Moher Cottage, Liscannor

If you’re venturing to the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare, stop off by Moher Cottage (run by Caitriona and Kevin Considine), and enjoy fine barista coffee and their famous handmade fudge, while taking in the impressive views. Located at St Brigid’s Well, just 1.5km south of the Cliffs of Moher visitor centre, Moher Cottage is also a gift store, supporting and selling local, Irish-made crafts. From art and pottery, to homeware and skincare, it’ll be hard to leave without picking up something for yourself or to take home to a loved one!

Moher Cottage now has outdoor covered seating (very handy for Ireland’s unpredictable weather!) and also has a new food truck, bringing their coffee and fudge to their farm at Clahane - a great swimming spot on the Wild Atlantic Way.

Visit mohercottage.com and follow on Instagram: @mohercottage

 An Capall Mara, Killybegs

This quirky ‘Coffee Horsebox’ in Killybegs, Co Donegal was set to open in March 2020, just as Covid hit. So having worked through a new plan to suit the rules and regulations, Emma Walker and her family opened An Capall Mara in May 2020 and it has been a success ever since, with their Columbian coffee bean going from strength-to-strength.

Located on the Shore Road, An Capall Mara

Reservations are highly advisable, especially during summer months.

Visit 1826adare.ie email info@1826adare. ie or call (061) 396 004 to book

 Koha Street Kitchen, Garavogue provides a wide choice of coffee, tea and fresh bakes, for you to enjoy while sitting back and taking in the view of the harbour. Visit ancapallmara.ie and follow @ancapallmara on Instagram

When I came across the Koha Street Kitchen food trailer page on Instagram, I had to stop myself from drooling over my phone! From their BBQ Beef Brisket to the Koha Churros, this new Sligo-based food trailer has all the street food you could want and more. Owned by New Zealand native, Sascha Viertel, Koha Street Kitchen is based on the premises of the Blue Lagoon Bar, along the Garavogue river, making it the perfect place to sit back with a pint and good food.

Follow Koha Street Kitchen on Instagram: @kohastreetkitchen

 1826 Adare

The thatched cottage restaurant that is 1826 Adare, gets its name from the year the first Lord of Dunraven built the cottage. Situated in the picturesque village of Adare, owners and husband-and-wife team Wade and Elaine Murphy strive to maintain the oldworld charm and character of the cottage.

1826 Adare, which was awarded Best Restaurant in Limerick and Munster by the Irish Restaurant Association Awards, strikes a delicate balance between solid Irish cooking and modern innovation, and Wade and Elaine are hitting the spot with fresh, comforting dishes. Equally matched with friendly and attentive service.

Currently, the restaurant is embracing outdoor dining, with a mouthwatering menu including dishes such as the delicious slow cooked rump of lamb (in image above).

 Murphy’s Ice Cream, Dingle

Those with a sweet tooth can’t go to Dingle in Co Kerry and not get a famous Murphy’s Ice Cream! The family-owned business has been making natural, tasty ice cream since 2000, with no colourings, flavourings or powdered milk, only fresh milk and local cream, eggs and organic sugar. Sean and Kieran Murphy started Murphy’s Ice Cream with the goal of making the best ice cream in the world, and I certainly think they’ve succeeded! Flavours include Dingle Gin, Smooth Chocolate, Strawberry, Kieran’s Cookies, Irish Coffee, Irish Brown Bread and more. Murphy’s also now has shops in other locations in the west, Killarney and Galway. Visit murphysicecream.ie

 Fisk Seafood Bar, Downings

Located next to the Harbour Bar in Downings, Fisk Seafood Bar has beautiful views overlooking the beach and a seafood menu from heaven! Voted Best Newcomer in Donegal in 2019, at Fisk Seafood Bar, you can choose from dishes such as crab on Scarpello toasted sourdough, fish tacos with slaw and fries, or smoked mackerel fishcake, washed down with a glass of fine wine. Visit fiskseafoodbar.com