Two lovely half-timbered houses, or rather, horses next – the White Horse, for a Dark Star Hophead and then over the dual carriageway to the Black Horse, my choice as top pub of the day. Great beers (Redemption’s Hotspur, at 4.5% for me), knowledgeable staff and smashing food too.
the bank of the River Lea, which we’d heard but couldn’t see.
As many of us won’t see our fifties again, and the next pub is over a mile way, taxis were ordered, taking us to a popular back-street local, the Great Eastern Tavern, for more McMullen beer. Its name suggests railways, which proved to be true, as the East Station was round the corner for stage two of the day.
On to the Woolpack, a large red-brick building by the river, McMullen’s brewery tap – so you’d expect them to get it right here, wouldn’t you? I tried their 4.8% IPA and it was the best McMullen beer I had that day. Our last pub of the tour was converted from a shop about twenty years ago, the Old Cross Tavern, that claims it’s “like pubs used to be”. And it was (although details were starting to blur), but I remember being impressed by this multi-awardwinning pub and its range of mostly microbrewery beers. I drank a half of Five Points Pale ale (4.4%).
Ah, it was to Ware that we were going. Noted for great beds, apparently, but I didn’t spot any for sale. The Waterside Inn, our first port of call, holds no memories for me at all, but my notes tell me I had a half of Cloudburst Porter, from the Frothblowers Brewery. Happily, I do remember the Brewery Tap, on the High St. A Greene King house, but with a huge range of guest ales. Tring Brewery’s 3.9% Citra for me. Mick issued his standard “Two minute warning” and off we went again ! The Old Bull’s Head, an ancient pub with an amazing interior, only had two Theakston’s beers on offer. Having recently spent a week in Swaledale, I’ve built up a peculiar intolerance of their beers, so had a double espresso. Probably as well, there was plenty more beer in many more pubs to come. Next up was the Quiet Man, a pub with a licensee who was anything but quiet. An old-school landlord, the like of which I thought long-gone. Loved him, and the pub, but didn’t fancy any of the cask offerings, so had a half of Shipyard Pale Ale, just for the hell of it. We’d all split into small parties by now, but we knew the train timetable, so all found their way safely back to Hertford. Someone (not me) was sure of the shortcut to the next pub. Short it may have been, dark it most certainly was. Groping our way along the path, one of us (ok, it was me) realised that phones are also torches (they have cameras, too), so we could carry on as we were, just inches from Visit our website for up-to-date news: www.peterborough.camra.org.uk
The Old Barge was a welcome, bright relief, with so-so beer (despite its entry in the GBG). Three Brewers Gold (3.8%) was my choice.
When we got up to leave, Wayne was leading and turned left at the door, to go to the station. Unfortunately, he should’ve turned right. After about 10 minutes, we asked the way, doubled back and got our train just after 8pm. I remember nothing of the return journey, maybe I slept, as I’ve been known to do on these trips. Many thanks, as usual, to Mick Slaughter for his meticulous planning, maps and copious guidance notes. We couldn’t do this without you, sir! Thanks too, all those participants that make these trips so very enjoyable. I wanted to say memorable, but for me, after about the first ten pubs or so, it rarely is! Dickie Bird PS: No, my opinion of McMullen’s beers hasn’t changed. (Photos: Derek Gibson)
APRIL/MAY 2022
BEER AROUND ‘ERE
17
