Todas of the Nilgiri hills

by Tarun Chhabra

The Todas are the ancient most inhabitants of the upper Nilgiri plateau having occupied the Nilgiri highlands for over five thousand years. The Todas as honey gatherers is role that has never earlier been investigated. Something strange, if one realises that Toda life down the ages has had ‘honey’ as focal point. Honey and its gathering can be found mentioned in all aspects of Toda life; in mythological stories, in ancient songs, in various life time rituals, in prayers, in personal and clan names, in names of plants, birds and even in the beautiful embroidery motits.

The most sacred river (now sadly dammed) to the Todas is the Mukurti Pykara river that has specific sacred names at different sites, but is generally called ko.lyxi.n (pron:kawlykheen). The origin of this river has an ancient mythological account rendered most interesting from the honey aspect.

There is another mythological story of the God who ordered that nearby tree (Michelia nilagirica) that was over 80 feet high should attract the Posto.n (peshtein) bees (Apis dorsata) and in time, around 300 colonies were formed on this huge tree making the tree bend down under the weight. One day, the Todas, Kurumbas and Irula tribals decided to jointly harvest this honey. While the Todas lit the fire to smoke the hives, the Kurumbas and lrulas climbed up and started to gather the honey. Unfortunately, when most of the honey had been harvested, the tree that was bent under the weight of the hives, now straightened up and the Kurumba and Irulas were catapulted off and some killed. The Todas went back home with all the honey!

In various rituals too, honey plays an important role: honey is one of the items placed in bowl in the embroidered cloak of the deceased during the funeral ceremonies as requisite for the departing spirit to consume en route to the after world. During the wedding ceremonies, the bride is expected to place some food stuff at the base of the tree Eugenia arnottiana, including piece of honey comb.

Honey is traditionally added copiously to sacred food during important dairy temple festivals. Needless to add, honey still remains an important regular source of nourishment to the Todas.

The Todas have also observed that seven species of pollinating bees favour certain wild flower species that are in bloom and this gives the honey harvested from that area distinct flavour. There is an ancient song that mentions this. It describes the 6, 12 and 18 year cyclic flowering strobilanthes and many other different flowers and which bees are attracted to which flower. This explains the deep knowledge that the Todas have as regards the specific honey bee pollinators of different wild flowers. The cyclically flowering species of strobilanthes or kurinji are known to produce exceptional medicinal properties in honey harvested in their environs.

There is ground orchid Calanthe triplicata which means honey leaves. These large perennial leaves can be fabricated to hold harvested honey when no other vessel is at hand and the hence the name. There is bird (the shikra) which means honey drinker. There are stories of how this bird located hives of rock bees and in turn leads the Todas to these hives hidden in deep rocky crevices! In Toda embroidery, there is traditional motif which is based on the honey comb pattern.

Although down the ages, the Todas have harvested honey from different species of bees and locations, today it is only collected from tree sites. Most Toda males know of several ancient hives that are shown to them from one generation to another. These hives (of Apis cerana) are located within hollows of ancient trees and the orifices are covered with cap stone(s) that leave an opening large enough for the bees to go in and out. Every year, during the dry season, the Toda visits these tree hives often situated in remote areas. He removes the cap stone, puts his hand up into the hollow and draws only the outer portion of the honey combs. The brood portion is left untouched. No smoke or other irritants are ever used. it is very eco-friendly way of honey gathering. After harvesting and performing some rituals, he replaces the cap stone of the tree orifice and he will not return until another year.

New hives in the hollows of trees (without cap stones} can also be detected usually by looking for’pekk’ or droppings of pollen onto leaves (esp. Rhododendron) by over flying bees. It is fascinating to see Todas finding ‘new’ hives by following these ‘pekk’ pollen markings. Once discovered and harvested, he finds stone that will fit the orifice and puts it in place. In time, this will become a traditional hive.

There are several ritualistic rules of purity to maintain the sanctity of traditional honey gathering. Transgression of these rules can result even in death.

Very close to an ancient funeral site, there are some magnificent pre-historic rock paintings on sheer rock faces that portray distinct honey gathering sequences. If the Todas were indeed the creators of this very ancient rock are, then we know that honey hunting is firmly embedded in the Toda genes.