12 minute read
Fashion Feast
While it is a constant presence in our lives, fashion is always changing, evolving, reemerging, and allowing one the opportunity for self-expression. There are countless reasons why fashion is important. Whether it’s to make someone feel beautiful, or serve as a representation of a time, period, or culture, there’s a deep sense of history that is connected to the work of designers of every generation.
From haute couture to ready-to-wear, distinct looks and signature staple pieces are what set each designer apart.
CD Greene, Nicole Miller, Marc Bouwer, and Jill Martin—four creative visionaries in their own right—give us a behind-the-scenes look at their work, their process, and what the design world and their followers can expect next.
CD Greene
TRANSFORMING WOMEN FOR OVER A DECADE
Old-world glamour mixed together with cutting edge creations forms the essence of fashion designer CD Greene’s timeless pieces. A favorite among celebrities and entertainers (he’s designed for Tina Turner), the Chicagoborn designer has had an eye for beautiful things and an appreciation for art since he was a kid. His creativity came from his family, who he says knew how to put things together really well.
“My grandmother was like Auntie Mame— she was over the top and I admired her because she did everything her own way,” he says. “I loved her very much.”
The elaborate designer shared with BELLA highlights from his career, the process he follows when creating, and what followers of his work can expect next.
How did your partnership with the famous department store, Bergdorf Goodman, develop?
I had been playing around with mirrors and a friend of mine who knew the fashion director said I should show her my collection. I was terrified! I met her at the store and while we were on our way up to meet the president at the time, we ran in to some ladies who wanted to know where they could find the dresses we were carrying. After she saw those dresses, she said, “Give him a window.”
When a client wants a CD Greene exclusive, what is your design process?
First, we have a conversation about what kind of event it is, the color they’re looking for, and what they feel good in. Next, I pull out samples for them to try on; it’s a process of elimination to find the one. For the person who has the time and wants something special developed, it’s really awesome. To see the finished product is especially rewarding.
What is it about the 1930’s and ‘40's that excite you as a designer?
I would see the clothes in the films and wonder, Who did this? Designers like Edith Head, Orry-Kelly, and Adrian created many of the designs that I loved.
I love the movie, “What a Way to Go!” with Shirley MacLaine. She wore the most beautiful clothes in that film. I also love “The Birds” with Tippi Hedren. I thought she was so beautiful, and her suits were impeccably made and fitted. Orry-Kelly had a way of making a dress with simple lines and making it very clean. The pieces from all three of these designers are timeless.
Your designs are a staple on the red carpet. Do you have a favorite?
Tracee Ellis Ross hosted the American Music Awards in 2018, and she wanted to look like she was dipped in gold, so we created a gown made up of all gold mirror. Watching the show and seeing her come out in the gown was pretty spectacular.
Another great moment was seeing Candace Bushnell wearing one of my designs on the cover of her “Sex and the City” book. It was a best-seller and when I saw it I thought, “OMG, my dress is on the cover of a best-selling book.” A few years later, when the movie came out, Pat Fields [the costume designer] asked if I could make some clothes for the film, and I did a few of the dresses for the character of Samantha. I’ve had quite a few amazing and rewarding moments in the movies and on the red carpet.
If you could dress anyone, who would it be?
Oh wow, there are so many. I love Nicole Kidman, Zendaya, and Margot Robbie, whose style I love. They’re all style icons.
What is it about fashion that excites you?
I love the fact that fashion changes and just when you think you’ve learned everything, there is something else you learn about yourself and the creative process. Fashion evolves and that’s one of the most wonderful parts of designing.
What’s up next for you?
We’re launching CDGNY, which is a collection of dresses priced a bit more accessible. I dress mothers, grandmothers, and daughters; this was an opportunity to dress more women and make the collection more accessible. There will be 12 pieces in the collection available this holiday season at Bergdorf ’s and Saks, both in store and online. I’m really excited and think it’s going to do well.
Jill Martin
BUILDING A LIFESTYLE EMPIRE
Jill Martin’s career encompasses a wide range of outlets—she’s a lifestyle contributor for the “Today Show,” creative director for the G.I.L.I. brand at QVC, New York Times best-selling author, and an all-around fashion expert. Ask her about any of her roles and she will tell you there is a common thread among all of them.
“People say to me, ‘You have so many hats, what’s the thread?’” says Jill. “And the thread is it’s all authentic—everything I am doing at this point in my life I am passionate about and is true to me.”
Her “Today Show” segments are not only huge hits with viewers, they are also empowering for the women whose lives she touches as a result.
BELLA caught up with Jill to find out what inspires her, the brands she’s creating with G.I.L.I., and why she believes that you can have it all—just not all at once.
The “Today Show” segments are huge successes; what do you enjoy most with each?
The “She Made It” segment is about women who have taken an idea and turned it into a major business. I highlight those businesses, and it’s such a thrill and a learning experience to hear the different stories of how these women empowered themselves, built businesses, and started with nothing. It’s something I’m really proud of.
With “Ambush Makeovers,” that’s a responsibility I take very seriously. It’s not just a segment; women come down to the Plaza looking for a new start. They have unbelievable, inspiring backstories. The segment is important because it’s about taking care of yourself…being your own best friend. We give women the confidence and the start of a new chapter.
And “Steals and Deals” is a way for me to reach people and offer luxury products at affordable prices. Everyone loves a deal and it’s been incredible to see the responses.
As the creative director for G.I.L.I., can you describe what does the brand encompass?
It’s everything from fashion to accessories to home décor, which we launched in May, G.I.L.I. by Jill Martin Home. For fall, we brought back our jewelry collaboration with designer Jennifer Miller, and we’re also launching our beauty line. The premise of G.I.L.I. is accessible elegance.
What inspired you to create the home collection?
We have such a huge following with the clothing line that I thought it was a natural progression. It’s been thrilling to see all of the home makeovers. I always give advice on how to make over your home and now I can provide the tools to do it.
Do you give creative input on all of the lines?
From the design, to the fabric, to the color, to the type of stud we use—I’m involved with everything. That was important to both myself and QVC because we wanted this to be a collaboration. I am the kind of person who will not put my name on something unless I truly believe in it.
From where do you draw inspiration?
A lot of my inspiration comes from my travels. I travel all around the world (often on my own) to build different collections that evoke different parts of women’s personalities.
You also collaborated with celebrity trainer Tracy Anderson. Tell us a bit about that.
We launched two years ago and recently came out with our second capsule collection; a third one is on the way. I wanted to branch into fitness and found someone who is passionate about what she does, and has a large following. Tracy has something called her “Tamily”—loyal devotees—and I thought it was the perfect “schmerge.” Tracy Anderson for G.I.L.I. has been a huge success, and I’m grateful for her expertise.
How do you handle all of your different roles?
Nothing comes easy, and you can’t have everything all at once. I gave up a personal life for a long time, and now I finally have balance. But when all of my friends were getting married and having kids, I was working seven days a week. I believe you can have it all, I just don’t believe you can have it all at once. Years ago Kathie Lee and Hoda said that, and I never forgot it.
What styles are you most excited for this fall?
I always get excited for chunky sweaters, blazers, and boots. I love that full suits are back, I’m a huge fan of capes, and I love a tiny bag. I’m very much a pair-down person for nighttime. And I love statement hats.
I also think people are going to get creative, adding belts to suits they already have. I’m all about shopping in your closet.
As a sideline reporter for the New York Knicks, you’ve become involved with the Garden of Dreams Foundation. What is its mission?
It’s a charity associated with all areas of Madison Square Garden. We have children facing unimaginable obstacles and our mission is to help make their dreams come true. I have segued from sideline reporting to making wishes come true; what more can you ask for than to be the person who can do that?
The Garden allows me to give back in a way that’s important to me, and that’s direct contact. To see the smile on these children’s faces—it’s the most important thing I do; I’m beyond grateful.
Marc Bouwer
TIMELESS ELEGANCE
South African-born fashion designer Marc Bouwer achieved notoriety at just 17 years old, becoming one of the most sought after designers in his country. Three years later, after making his way to the United States, he worked under renowned designer Halston before launching his own business.
“I’ve always loved beautiful, strong, sexy women in the movies and on TV; they are my muse,” he says.
His designs, all named after the beautiful models, entertainers, and clients he’s worked with over the years, inspire the collections he creates. In addition to his beautiful gowns and stunning swimwear, Marc launched a bridal line this past spring. No stranger to designing bridal gowns (he created Whitney Houston’s gown), Marc had never officially gone after the bridal market—until now.
Along with his timeless designs, Marc continues to set the bar high and push fashion forward. His “Shop the Showroom” concept allows customers to not only acquire one of his designs online, but also visit the Marc Bouwer storefront, located above the showroom in New York City’s financial district. The beauty of this appointment-only service is that it gives women the opportunity to connect with Marc on a more personal level.
BELLA reconnected with Marc to talk about his work, including the bridal line, his e-commerce site for customers, and why working with up and comers in Hollywood excites him.
When we first spoke almost two years ago, you were in the process of setting up your e-commerce site. What does the site look like today?
The site is like an invitation for personal clients; they can either come to the showroom or they can shop on the site. In a way, it’s a showcase, just like Instagram; it’s all a part of social media.
What exactly is “Shop the Showroom”?
We have a storefront showroom that allows people to come in and shop. The fashion business is continuously evolving; there are always new ways to shop. You must evaluate your business, see how you fit into the market, and [determine] what’s good for both you and your client.
Throughout your career you’ve designed bridal dresses. What prompted you to finally create a specific bridal collection?
I had been doing quite a lot of brides and each one that came in wanted exactly what we did in the collection. They wanted something different, but not traditional, so we thought why don’t we make a small collection of those dresses, and we did.
I found that the women who came to the showroom didn’t want the typical wedding dress. They wanted a beautiful white gown with not a lot of fuss—something stunning and sleek, somewhat sexy, somewhat minimal, and not traditional. The dresses are for the modern woman.
You’ve dressed some of the biggest names in Hollywood. Is there anyone in particular you’d like to work with?
I’ve always been excited about the up-andcoming; those are the ones I’m excited about. I remember when Charlize Theron was going to be the next “big thing.” Now someone like Zendaya is on the cusp of being that person with “Euphoria.” Of course, I have all of my celeb clients that I love to work with, but I enjoy finding the up-and-coming because you don’t want to grow old with your audience, you want to continue and evolve. To do that, you need a youthful connection.
What about fall fashion has you most excited?
Fashion continues to evolve, and I don’t like to dwell in the past. I like to move fashion forward, do new things. I’m very excited about the technological advancement in fabrication, which leads to new shapes and new ways to cutting and draping.
Technology plays a huge part in how things can change. What has happened with social media is there is no longer one super trend; there are many trends because there are many different kinds of women in the world who have different needs and like different things. The evolution of style is continuous and a lot of it is dictated by technology and what you are able to come up with using those new fabrics. That is what excites me.
What’s up next for you?
Every day something exciting happens, and that’s the great thing about coming to work because you never know what kind of email, text, or call you’re going to get. I have a really cool project coming up in December. I can’t say much except that it has to do with entertainment. Stay tuned…
Nicole Miller
A FASHION DESIGNER ICON
Known for her little black dress and her signature graphic prints with ingenious silhouettes, Nicole Miller is a fashion designer whose appreciation for beauty is visible in the timeless designs she’s been creating for the past three decades.
Obsessed with clothing from a young age, Nicole says she “lived for her fashion magazines” that would arrive by way of boat, thanks to her Parisian-born mother.
“She was always such a chic person, my mom,” says Nicole. “There were all these amazing pictures of her when she lived in France; she was super well-dressed and had these 1940’s cool clothes and the high hairstyle.”
Over the years, Nicole has established herself as a leader in fashion in addition to creating a lifestyle brand that encompasses everything from accessories, home furnishings, and now a signature line of rosé wine.
Intrigued by the work she’s doing, BELLA spoke with the timeless designer to hear more about her latest designs and newest venture.
What do you enjoy most about the design process?
I like getting the prints together and coming up with ideas for them. I also like to work on the silhouettes. I think a lot of people are not so interested in the crazy silhouette as they are in detail, so right now we’re working on a lot of details, embroideries, and trims. Customers really like those special little things.
What inspired this year’s fall collection?
I’ve always been deeply involved with the environmental aspects of things. I’m into recycling and have been working on getting the message out. For a while, I had a newsletter and occasionally still share suggestions for people on what they can do in their everyday lives.
I had all of that on my mind and started up-cycling some cashmere sweaters and reusing old denim for trim. There are also things that are signature me—I use a lot of symbols in my work and in my prints. I put a lot of environmental aspect into the collection. It evolved from one idea to the next, but the original idea was all this repurposing, recycling, and up-cycling.
Do you have a favorite piece from the collection?
I did a zodiac symbol blouse and an evil eye blouse. We also did a handbag and cashmere sweater out of it; they’re kind of my favorite pieces.
What are you looking forward to debuting for Spring/Summer 2020?
I found some beaded ideas I really liked and have been working them into my prints, and started doing things on leather. Every season I have the leather jacket; it’s the signature jacket in the collection. We do one for spring, one for fall, and they sell out completely.
This past spring you launched a vintage capsule collection. Was it fun revisiting fashion from the 1980s?
I feel like so much of what I did in the ‘80s—things like the viscose crepe dresses—everyone is doing that look again so I have sort of been filtering those in. I had done a collection of about 20 and we didn’t produce all of them, so I’m going to remake some in different prints—it’s ongoing and the vintage collection will be available all year round.
Recently you ventured into the wine business. What was the catalyst to launch Nicole Miller Rosé?
I have a French friend and he represents chateaus in Bordeaux; we were talking and he asked if I would be interested in having my own rosé. How could I say no to that? We did the first season as a lark, but it did so well that we are already planning a second season—we’re definitely going to have rosé in 2020.
What sets your wine apart from others?
Even though I am sure there are plenty of roses in Bordeaux, I don’t think people think of that; it’s not on the tip of anyone’s tongue. I believe that differentiates mine from the others out there, plus it’s a blend of three different grapes as well as organic.
What else is next for the Nicole Miller brand?
I have a lot of home furnishings and kitchen items in the works that I’m excited for, especially since I cook a lot. We also have our rug line, which is doing very well, and a line of furniture coming out.