Bella Watson’s Fashion Journal
Table of Contents Entry #1…………………………………………………………………………………........3 WWD Article………………………………………………………………………………...4 Entry #2………………………………………………………………………………………..6 Chicago Tribune Article………………………………………………………………..8 Entry #3……………………………………………………………………………………….13 Vogue Article……………………………………………………………………………….14 Entry #4……………………………………………………………………………………….16 Entry #7……………………………………………………………………………………….17 Entry #8……………………………………………………………………………………….19 Entry #11……………………………………………………………………………………..20 Entry #12……………………………………………………………………………………..21 Entry #13……………………………………………………………………………………..22 Entry #14……………………………………………………………………………………..24 Entry #15……………………………………………………………………………………..28
Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily – October 4, 2013 Amsterdam’s Rituals Home & Body Cosmetics Enters Barneys This article is about a cosmetics company from the Netherlands entitled Rituals expanding into the US market via Barneys New York. Rituals, which is based out of Amsterdam, is being added to the apothecary section of Barneys’ beauty floor. Raymond Cloosterman, founder and CEO of Rituals, sees the brand’s entrance into the US market as a “very big step in the right direction”. Rituals currently includes more than 400 stockkeeping units across bath and body, men’s, and mineral makeup, but will enter the US market exclusively through Barneys with about 60 bath, body, and home products to start. In 2014, the brand plans to add color to their Barneys lineup. Also in early 2014, Rituals will open two stand-alone stores on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and SoHo neighborhoods. Cloosterman states that Rituals is the number-one beauty brand in the Netherlands and is sold throughout 13 countries. Industry sources estimate that the
introduction of Rituals to the US Market could generate between $2 million and $3 million in sales within the first year. I think that getting Rituals into the US market is a very smart idea. Consumers in the US always seem to be looking for the newest thing, especially in cosmetics, and I think Rituals will get good reception. Starting at Barneys before opening independent stores is also a good business move. By doing that, the company can observe how the US market reacts to their products. Rituals sounds like an interesting brand, as it is inspired by ancient Eastern rituals and aims to get people to consider everyday moments, such as hand washing, as a time of calm. I think the brand will do well.
Amsterdam's Rituals Home & Body Cosmetics Enters Barneys By BELISA SILVA
As Barneys New York continues to expand its reach, the retailer is adding Rituals Home & Body Cosmetics, a comprehensive beauty line based out of Amsterdam, to the apothecary section of its beauty floor. “We started out in 2000 with a small, yet very passionate team. During a short period of time we were able to grow significantly, ” said Raymond Cloosterman, the brand’s founder
and chief executive officer. “Still, we continuously strive to expand into new markets and see the U.S. launch as a very big step in the right direction.” The brand, which includes more than 400 stockkeeping units across bath and body, men’s and mineral makeup, will enter the U.S. exclusively through Barneys with about 60 bath, body and home products, to start. It is planned for Rituals to occupy six to seven shelves in Barneys doors and two to three shelves, or table presentations at the Co-op locations. In-store customers will be offered complimentary hand massages and access to a variety of Rituals body products around the sink area. In 2014, the brand will add color cosmetics to the Barneys lineup. In addition, two stand-alone Rituals stores on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and SoHo neighborhoods, will open their doors — about 700 and 1,000 square feet in size, respectively — in early 2014. “What we see here in the Netherlands, in specific department stores in which high-end customers visit [is that] we have more accessible price points than [other prestige] brands,” said Eva Elias, creative director of Rituals, which is priced between $15 for a shower foam and $35 for a reed diffuser. “We are seeing a lot of stores wanting brands in that specific spot of luxury and accessibility.” At the center of the brand, which is inspired by ancient Eastern rituals, is the goal of turning everyday moments, from hand washing to showering, into a time of calm. “It’s about daily routines, taking a bit of time and attention for what you are doing, being conscious of that moment,” said Elias. “All too often our lives are so busy that we forget to enjoy. Our mission is to encourage you to slow down once in a while.” According to Cloosterman, Rituals is the number-one beauty brand in the Netherlands, and is sold throughout 13 countries. With sights set on robust global expansion, plans call for the brand to be available in more than 1,000 stores worldwide in the next 10 years. Although the brand would not discuss financial details, industry sources estimate its introduction into the U.S. market could generate between $2 million and $3 million in sales within the first year.
Entry #2 Chicago Tribune – December 1, 2013 Cut from the same cloth: Esprit tries on Zara for fashion makeover This article discusses Esprit CEO Jose Manuel Martinez Gutierrez’s plan to revamp the company’s existing business model and recreate it in the image of his former employer Zara. Martinez hired many people from Zara owner Inditex, who is the world’s biggest retailer with a model of rapidly changing fashion that analysts says is among the best in the industry. Martinez is also making upgrades to technology and distribution to “help his new hires get clothes designed, manufactured, and on the racks in three to four months from the current seven to eight month time frame”. However, Esprit faces a problem that Inditex doesn’t have: Inditex owns most of its stores, while nearly a fifth of Esprit’s stores and 60% of its sales areas are franchised. This means that feedback takes longer to get. Franchised stores also operate differently, which is a problem for Esprit as some of its franchise-run and self-branded stores are in the same countries. What Esprit really needs to do is convert foot traffic into sales.
I think that by modeling their business after Zara, Esprit is taking a step in the right direction. Seeing as Martinez used to work for Inditex, who owns Zara, he should have a considerable knowledge of the inner workings of their business. It seems as though Esprit is struggling at the moment because in Martinez’s latest statement, he said that “[their] business figures are extremely far from [their] goals and expectations�. Hopefully by implementing this plan, Martinez will be successful in reviving Esprit as both a brand and a company.
HONG KONG/MADRID (Reuters) - Esprit Holdings' chief is doubling down on a bet to fix the struggling clothing retailer he took charge of a year ago by revamping its existing business model and recreating it in the image of his former employer-now-rival, Zara.
Jose Manuel Martinez Gutierrez, 44, has stacked his management suite with veterans of Zara owner Inditex , the world's biggest retailer whose model of rapidly changing fashion analysts say is among the best in the industry.
He also unveiled upgrades to technology and distribution to help his new hires get clothes designed, manufactured and on the racks in three to four months from the current seven to eight month time frame.
Now, all he has to do is get customers to buy the clothes.
The former McKinsey consultant and supply-chain whiz has laid the foundations for Esprit's recovery over the next 12-18 months with his nuts and bolts overhaul - he cut 10 percent of Esprit staff in the past year - but the real gauge of success will be in growing sales.
And in today's increasingly crowded market for high-street fashion, that means being able to adapt to the rapidly changing and divergent tastes of price-sensitive shoppers.
"We are mostly focusing now on improving all of our products' design and value for money, rather than on rethinking our sales strategy," Martinez told Reuters.
To succeed, he will need buy-in from every part of the business, ranging from Esprit's design and sourcing departments to its marketing managers.
"Our business figures are extremely far from our goals and expectations," he acknowledged in a letter to shareholders in Esprit's most recent annual report in October.
BRAND REVIVAL
While Esprit's plans may be similar to what worked for Inditex, it faces at least one problem its rival didn't.
Inditex owns most of its stores. Nearly a fifth of Esprit's stores and 60 percent of its sales
area is franchised and not directly owned and run by the Hong Kong-listed brand which also has headquarters in Ratingen, Germany.
Feedback on which clothes are selling well takes longer. Franchises tend to be quicker to cut their losses by putting poorly selling items on sale - a potential problem for a company such as Esprit, which has franchise-run stores and self-branded stores in some of the same countries.
"It becomes more complex to manage inventory and pricing in a situation where a certain amount of internal competition has been created," said Jamie Merriman, a senior analyst financial research firm Bernstein Research.
Martinez said that decisions to open or close stores would be based on return on investment and profitability but that Esprit plans to keep its multi-channel distribution model.
Even if Martinez succeeds in dramatically shortening Esprit's production time, it's not clear whether speed alone will be enough to revive the brand.
H&M , Gap Inc and Uniqlo, the flagship brand of Japan's Fast Retailing Co Ltd , are faster than Esprit at getting new products to market, and also cheaper. More expensive brands like family owned Max Mara and Gucci, owned by luxury conglomerate Kering SA , are also developing quicker turnaround times, as are luxury brands such as Prada SpA .
"Competition is very intense," said Aaron Fischer, head of consumer research at brokerage CLSA. "Esprit has high brand awareness but it needs to convert foot traffic into sales - and
that requires good products. Right now, their products are quite poor compared with their peer group."
FAST-FASHION DNA
Esprit shares hit a record low of HK$6.95 ($0.90) on September 26, 2011 as the company struggled with loss-making stores and closing down its North American operations. The shares now trade over HK$16 ($2.06), but have remained well below historical highs for more than three years.
Yet only two of Esprit's 10 biggest shareholders have trimmed their stakes in the most recent reporting period, and those cuts were just 0.01 percent and 1.03 percent, respectively, according to Thomson Reuters data. Six of the top 10 investors increased their stakes and newcomer Tiger Global Management LLC bought a 5.09 percent stake.
"The company has been very transparent in communicating our strategy to the market, which includes our shareholders, and so far the overall response has been positive," Martinez said, responding to Reuters' questions via email.
Since joining Esprit in September 2012, Martinez, who spent nearly a decade running Inditex's supply chain, has hired at least five former colleagues as his top lieutenants, news of which propelled the company's shares each time.
His latest hire was at the end of October when Rafael Pastor Espuch joined as chief product officer, sending the shares more than seven percent higher.
One thing that stands out about the new hires is their many years of service with Inditex, which ranges from six years to as many as 18 years.
"All these people certainly have a fast-fashion DNA, but can they change the culture of a company on their own?" said Joaquin Villalba, who was former head of European logistics operations at Inditex and worked with Martinez.
THE MIT CONNECTION
Much of Inditex's success can be attributed to its tightly controlled distribution system that sends tens of thousands of garments a day from distribution centers in Spain to more than 6,100 stores in some 86 countries.
The speed of the system, which uses sophisticated software and robots to process and pack orders, helps it to respond to catwalk trends as fast as within a fortnight.
It's a strategy that the company has fine-tuned over the years in partnership with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology's LGO MBA program in the United States and is a strategy that Martinez worked to refine shortly before he left the company.
"Instinct has been used to make many pertinent decisions, from design to distribution. Design is difficult to measure, but distribution is not; analytics lie behind many distribution processes in the retail world," said Villalba, who founded mStore Operations, a business application for smartphones that supports fast-fashion processes like ordering and
restocking.
Rachel Kelley, the author of an MIT thesis on transferring clothes between stores, said Martinez mentored her during her six-month internship at Zara and set her the task of creating a mathematical model to make re-stocking more efficient.
"He had a very clear vision for the project," said Kelley, who expects her new model to earn Inditex an additional $18 million per year in profit. "He knows where he wants Esprit to go and how he wants to redesign the supply chain, and I think that's why he'll achieve it."
Martinez has already moved to get clothes on racks more quickly.
"We have already invested in a state of the art, fully automated distribution center in MĂƒÂśnchengladbach, Germany," he told Reuters. "Additional investment may likely be required in warehousing space to implement a more ambitious stock replenishment model."
Entry #3 Vogue – October 9, 2013 Going Solo: The Delicate Impact of a Single-Strand Necklace This article from Vogue touches on the trend of single-strand necklaces from this fall. Claire Distenfeld, owner of the Upper East Side boutique Fivestory, says there is a “surprising allure, the delicate impact, of a sparkling single-strand necklace peeking out from under the collar of a man-tailored shirt or encircling the neck of a quiet cashmere pullover”. These kinds of necklaces also come across as more grown-up and sophisticated. The article also states that there should be two requirements for a single-strand necklace this season: it should rest gently on the collarbone and it must glitter or at least gleam. I like the trend of single-strand necklaces very much. Previously we’ve seen many necklaces piled on, sometimes almost carelessly, and I always thought that was too much. I agree with the length that the article noted as a requirement for these necklaces. I also like how they’re being worn under
button-up shirts with high collars. It adds a bit of unexpected glamour to an otherwise somewhat plain shirt. When done right, it looks very classy.
Going Solo: The Delicate Impact of a Single-Strand Necklace by Lynn Yaeger
“The boom factor kind of sneaks up on you,” says Claire Distenfeld, the effortlessly stylish owner of the Upper East Side boutique Fivestory, describing the surprising allure, the delicate impact, of a sparkling single-strand necklace peeking out from under the collar of a man-tailored shirt or encircling the neck of a quiet cashmere pullover. This jewelry, first glimpsed on the fall runways at Rochas and Dries Van Noten, lent a flash of subdued gaiety to those designers’ quirky-classic ensembles. Unlike the frankly ironic necklaces that have occupied our attention in the recent past—clattery plastic stacks of juvenilia piled on with abandon—these pieces are tasked with a more serious, if still deeply enjoyable, assignment. Rochas creative director Marco Zanini confirms that his runway jewelry was chosen to ramp up the erudition quotient. “The collection was more grown-up and sophisticated,” he says. “We wanted to express a more mature attitude. The necklaces are crystal, but not cheap or fake-looking, and the style is very simple, very traditional.”
As it turns out, Distenfeld has a particularly impressive example of just this sort of thing in her shop: by Sorellina, it employs 18K gold and diamonds in a single-strand wonderland involving butterflies and Art Moderne flora. She slips it on so that two or so inches of foliage emerge from under the collar of her seafoam-green vintage Armani silk shirt (in truth, originally her mom’s), which she has paired today in a typically nonchalant uniform with linen Zara walking shorts and a pair of Suno suede platforms.
Dries Van Noten could have Distenfeld’s unforced elegance in mind when he explains that his runway necklaces lent the right feminine allure to his tailored shirts. “This idea of fusing genders and finding the right balance between feminine and masculine seems right somehow,” he says. “The jewels stayed camouflaged in an understated way, blending into the outfit beautifully. Instead of a clash, it created harmony.” Curious to spend a lost afternoon seeking out other stellar examples of the single-strand phenomenon, Distenfeld and I decide that our quarry must meet two requirements: It should rest gently on the collarbone and, regardless of the type of stone or metal, it must glitter, or at the very least gleam. Within those parameters are many candidates vying for election, from nineteenth-century antique versions and Larkspur & Hawk’s cunning replicas of those vintage treasures to Marie-Hélène de Taillac’s symphony of step-cut amethysts and Alexis Bittar’s silver and gold abstractions. At Solange Azagury-Partridge, Distenfeld falls for an astonishingly chic blend of diamonds and multicolored sapphires arranged in a shape that recalls an Art Deco ziggurat. When it twinkles gloriously from between her lapels, something about the angular cut of the stones leads her to comment that its appeal seems almost elemental, relying as it does on blocks, shapes, and colors. Taking in its magnificent geometry, its exquisite proportions, Distenfeld could be summing up the entire seductive power of the new single strand when she sighs, “It’s really all about finding the subtlety in something ‘wow.’ ”
Entry #4
One observation I have made of women’s apparel in fall 2013 is that menswear inspired looks are in. From blazers to tailored pants and pinstripes, looks inspired by menswear have been big this season. I have seen this trend everywhere from Nordstrom to Forever 21, so there’s a menswear inspired look for everyone in all price ranges. I have also seen vests and many button-up shirts. This is similar to the popularity of monotone colors in fall 2012, as I have mainly seen menswear inspired women’s apparel in blacks, whites, and greys. I also remember seeing pantsuits and jumpsuits in fall 2012, which create a similar silhouette as menswear for women. This is different from fall 2012 because it is more tailored and closely fitted to the body as opposed to peplums, which were extremely popular in fall 2012. There was a bit more of a fit and flare trend going on in fall 2012, and clothes seem a bit more streamlined this year.
Entry #7 Fabric Trends
Leather •
Seen with designers Yves Saint Laurent, Prada, Calvin Klein, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rebecca Minkoff, and Alexander Wang
•
Used in dresses, pants/leggings, skirts, and jackets
Tweed •
Seen with designers Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Tory Burch, J. Crew, and Alice + Olivia
•
Used in blazers/jackets, pants, and dresses
Cashmere
•
Seen with designers Burberry, Ralph Lauren, and Donna Karan
•
Used in scarves, sweaters, and tops
Entry #8 Color Trends
1.
Emerald – Seen in Jason Wu and 3.1 Phillip Lim
2.
Oxblood – Seen in Andrew Marc and Lauren Ralph Lauren
3.
Purples – Seen in J. Crew and Rag and Bone
Entry #11 I absolutely love the television show The Mindy Project, starring Mindy Kaling as a fashionable OB/GYN. This season, I have noticed how her character layers high-necked, button-up shirts with scoop neck sweaters and dresses. She also mixes prints fearlessly, in ways that some women would be hesitant to wear. I think that the trend of layering of clothes with drastically different necklaces could emerge from Mindy’s style on the show. I find that this creates a visually interesting look to an outfit. It could also be a way to spruce up a plain blouse that just isn’t enough by itself. Mindy also frequently wears single-strand necklaces under the collars of her layered shirts, similar to the trend discussed in the Vogue article I used for my third entry.
Entry #12 Designer: Alexander McQueen Collection: Ready-To-Wear Season: Spring/Summer 2013 This dress caught my eye immediately. I have always loved gowns with full, bell-shaped skirts such as this one. I also like the contrast between the sheerness of the skirt and the stiff, almost cage-like detailing on the bodice. The flowers on the skirt and chest give the dress more texture and shape. It kind of gives me an old Western feel. I don’t think many retailers would carry a piece as crazy as this, but Alexander McQueen would be seen in high-end retailers such as Neiman Marcus or Bergdorf Goodman.
Entry #13 Career Descriptions
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Fashion Designer: Some of the most common responsibilities of a designer include producing concepts, making sketches by hand or on a computer/tablet, developing patterns, overseeing production, and analyzing trends in fabrics, colors, and shapes. Designers also must be creative, have an eye for color, texture, and pattern, the ability to visualize a sketch as 3D, have basic technical skills such as pattern cutting, grading, and garment construction.
ď ś
Buyer: Buyers work for retailers and other clothing suppliers to decide what clothes and accessories the stores will stock for sale. They play a big part in either the success or failure of sales. Buyers must choose products they believe fit current trends and will be popular with customers. They must also keep in mind the styles of the stores or retailers they are choosing clothes and/or accessories for.
ď ś
Product Development Manager: A product development manager has to have a strategic overview of the whole company and aims to move it forward by spotting new trends and areas of growth that can be profitable. Product development managers conceive and develop a product taking into consideration design, commerciality, and technical issues. They also need to have an understanding of marketing and merchandising as well as garment construction and design.
Entry #14 Fashion Don’ts
1.
Crocs: I can’t even begin to explain my hatred for Crocs. I think the main thing about them is that they just look so tacky. From their rubber texture to the holes to the back ankle strap, they’re just extremely ugly. The fact that they tried to make them “fashionable” by adding little decorative things to put in the holes and also adding a fuzzy cuff is just a big fat NO. I automatically cringe whenever I see them.
2.
Wearing See-Through Leggings as Pants with a Top that Doesn’t Cover Your Butt: Being in college, I have seen a lot of this. I get that leggings are more comfortable than jeans on those lazy
days, and I’ll admit to wearing leggings as pants – as long as they are opaque and I’m wearing a longer top or a tunic that covers my butt. Not only does it look classless, but do you really want people to see you butt so obviously? It’s a matter of respect to me. Nobody wants to see that so please cover it up. If you must wear a short shirt with leggings, make sure that you can’t see your underwear through them. Public indecency, anyone?
3.
Men’s Flip-Flops: There are few things worse than seeing an attractive, decently-dressed man, only to notice that he is wearing flip-flops. I don’t like flip-flops in general, as they are basically a piece
of rubber or occasionally leather with two straps holding that piece onto your foot. They don’t offer any protection or arch support either. But that’s beside the point. Typically, men do not have the most visually appealing feet, so there’s no reason to have them on display like that. They just don’t look attractive on anyone. I get that it’s hot in the summer, but there’s no excuse for this fashion don’t. Might I recommend a nice boat shoe instead? Unless you’re at the beach or a pool, flip-flops are a NO.
4.
Overly Fake-Furry Boots: Everybody can appreciate a nice warm boot in the winter, but there’s no excuse to look like you have two small dead animals wrapped around your calves. Fur boots have been done in a classy way a la Louboutin who uses real furs, and they have been done in a white trash way by cheap retailers who mass-produce fakes. The fatness of the faux fur on those boots tends to make women look shorter than they actually are. The height of the shaft of the boot contributes to that too. I honestly cannot imagine why some women think they look good. To me, they are always a NO.
Entry # 15 Career Opportunities
1.
CEO for a Designer/Brand: This would be way in the future, but someday I think this position would be a good fit for me. I want to be a leader and I also want to be involved in several different areas of the fashion business. CEOs need a general knowledge of every part of
the company, and while this would be challenging, I think I would enjoy it in the fashion industry.
2.
Buyer: I think the position of a buyer would be a good fit for me because I highly enjoy seeing and analyzing the newest styles and clothes and I absolutely love to travel. After reading about market weeks and trade shows, being a buyer sounds appealing.
3.
Visual Merchandising/Marketing: I think these kinds of positions would be good for me because I love putting displays together in order to make products look good as well as advertise them. I think visual merchandising and marketing are related in that both are trying to convince people to buy a product, only using different strategies.